Video: Mike Glover’s Fundamentals of Solo CQB

If something goes bump in the night in your home, how would you respond? Many of us would grab a handgun from the bedside and quietly go to investigate, clearing the house to determine whether that noise was just the dog knocking over a plant or an armed burglar stumbling over it. However, there are many considerations for how to clear a house safely and efficiently, especially when you’re doing so alone. In the following 30-minute video, Mike Glover of Fieldcraft Survival discusses some fundamental lessons for single-man CQB (close-quarters battle) that can apply to any solo room-clearing context.

Glover is a former Green Beret — go read our Survivalist Spotlight interview to get up to speed on his background. As a result, he has quite a bit of training and experience dealing with CQB scenarios. But he also understands that many of the principles of clearing a structure with a team, like a military unit or law enforcement squad, don’t directly apply to doing so on your own. “Remember that you don’t have a number two man in this case. It’s just you.”

Some of these lessons, such as thinking about angles and exposure, are easy to work on at home. Others, such as shooting with your non-dominant hand, may require substantial practice. As always, we recommend seeking out a qualified instructor and training regularly to confirm your skills. Because when something goes bump in the night, you’d better be prepared to deal with it.


Eureka Machines Metal Detectors

This article was originally published in Issue 19.

Photos by Gordon D. Smith and courtesy of Barska

Maybe you weren’t expecting an article on this subject in RECOIL OFFGRID. But they’re everywhere. You’ve seen them in action on TV shows, at the beach, or on display at a local Radio Shack — well, at least when that franchise was still around. In fact, if you’ve been to court or flown on a commercial airliner in the past couple of decades or so, you’ve been scanned by one that’s the shape of a conspicuous doorframe.

Then why is it that people seem to view metal detectors as total bunk, just something eccentrics use to find buried pirate treasure but walk away with paperclips and spare change instead? What is a metal detector exactly? How does it work? And more importantly, how can it help the average prepper?

Besides being a fascinating hobby that gets you out of the house, there are potential possibilities where having and knowing how to use a good metal detector might come in quite handy. Therefore, we’re taking a closer look at these devices. Whether you’re just the curious type who wants to find out what’s hidden below the surface or you’re a serious prepper looking to extend your means of finding lost or valuable commodities after a crisis, you’ll no doubt uncover some interesting information in these pages.

How They Work

Born from scientific research into aircraft magnetic and directional navigation, these instruments can be analog, digital, or a combination. Even though the all-digital ones are preprogrammed, making them essentially plug ’n’ play, they still require a little study and practice if you ever wish to get good with them and elevate them above novelty toy status.

The basic idea is that an electromagnetic field flows out of the outer ring (transmitter) of the searchcoil and interacts with metal the coil passes over. This in turn generates a small electrical signal that the inner ring of the searchcoil (receiver) picks up.

Depending upon the type of searchcoil, the field can be doughnut shaped or basketball shaped or more of a narrow, focused field for specialized work.

Generally, modern detectors can detect a target buried 8 to 12 inches deep. Multiple factors can influence this: size of the coil, what materials are in the earth, the moisture content, quality of construction, size of the target, conductivity of the target, strength of the batteries, and whether the target is on edge or in a flat position.

Circuitry within the control box deciphers and filters the information and passes it along to both the visual display and a speaker to create an audible tone. The circuitry can discriminate between the types of metals detected and can be directed to ignore certain metals, such as iron and aluminum, and only pick up targets of more desirable metals.

Quality detectors fall into two main types: very low frequency (VLF), which operate in the range of 5 kHz to 30 kHz, and pulse induction (PI) units, which generate higher frequencies. These higher frequencies are more conducive to gold prospecting and less affected by ground minerals or wet, salty environments.

Why Work Them?

Let’s make this clear: Metal detectors won’t provide much help finding that cache of weapons and money secreted under a concrete floor, a la John Wick. Your detector would alert you to a lot of metal under that concrete, but you couldn’t discern if it was rebar or Keanu Reeves’ steely acting ability. After all, these aren’t X-ray specs.

However, what these instruments can do could be boon in dire times, such as:

  • Find hidden caches lost due to floods, shifting landmarks, poor logbook records, or just plain old forgetfulness.
  • Assist compatriots in locating their misplaced caches.
  • Prospect for valuable metals that can be used for bartering, especially if you have access to old gold mining tailings piles.
  • Locate underground pipes that could be tapped into for water (make certain you know they’re water pipes and not natural gas).
  • Work as improvised security wands for searching individuals when handheld units aren’t available.
  • Alert you to hidden nails, wires, cables, and other objects that could chew up your chainsaw blades if you’re clearing trees or obtaining lumber from unknown sources.
  • Detect mines and/or booby-traps. (Yes, this is an extreme and unlikely scenario. Needless to say, we’re by no means implying that an amateur should be out searching for land mines.)

What Should I Buy?

Look for metal detectors with bright displays so they’re easy to read on sunny days.

Obviously, what you’re looking for and how much you’re willing to spend on a unit will dictate what metal detector you’ll buy. But generally speaking, you’ll want to consider the following factors:

  • Light weight and balance
  • Availability of different searchcoils and ease of swapping them out for upgrades
  • Searchcoils with smooth edges, which won’t snag on grass and debris
  • Earphone jacks — standard 3.5mm is preferable
  • Bright displays for use during sunny days
  • Easy-to-reach and use keypads/controls
  • Attachment points for slings or straps
  • Carrying case
  • One-touch pinpoint capability

Other considerations include whether a model comes with any warranty and the ease of getting it repaired, which includes the location of service centers.

Oh, and do your needs require the detector to be submersible? Submersible models will work just as well out of water as under water.

You don’t have to spend really big bucks to get a good detector, although you can lay out more than $2,000 for the high-end models. Fortunately, the quality ones retain their value. And should you decide to upgrade, the aftermarket for them is good, with some specialty stores taking trade-ins for certain models.

Make & Model1. Barska Winbest Elite 2002. Barska Winbest3. Ground EFX MX4004. Ground EFX MX50
Searchcoil TypeConcentricConcentric“Double D”Concentric
SubmersibleOnly coil & shaftYesOnly coil & shaftOnly coil & shaft
Headphone jackNoneProprietary, waterproof3.5 mm3.5 mm
On-board tutorialsNoNoYesNo
Color ScreenNoNoYesNo
WarrantyOne yearOne yearOne yearOne year
MSRP$150$280$370$130
URLwww.barska.comwww.barska.comwww.groundefx.comwww.groundefx.com

Detecting a Technique

Initially, while learning what your detector can do, you want to set it to zero discrimination so it picks up all metals. Besides giving the operator an auditory tone when it receives a hit, the screen or meter will also reflect information about the target. Models equipped with LCD screens generally also provide information about the type of metal found and a relative depth.

Even though modern detectors take a lot of the guesswork out of getting started, it still takes practice to get really good with one.

Build a “test plot” on your own land. Seed it with different types of metals and coins at different depths, keeping each object about a foot away from the others. Clearly mark your test plot so you can easily return to it and listen to the tones generated while keeping an eye on the screen or meter.

Underground Rules

A word about proper etiquette: Unless you’re prospecting your own land, there are a few rules that need to be observed when metal detecting. First and foremost, get permission to be on private land. If you do have permission, unless you have a written agreement that you can keep what you find, anything you find belongs to the landowner. No debate.
Here are some other tenets to abide by:

  • Replace your divots: Don’t unintentionally leave a potential ankle-breaking trap.
  • Pack it out: Bring trash bags and leave the place cleaner than you found it.
  • Know the laws: If you’re on public land, there are only certain things you can legally collect and remove.
  • Respect all property
  • Never trespass
  • Keep a logbook of your finds and the location so you can easily return.
  • Be mindful of underground utilities — they could be harmful to your health!

Beep, Beep! Now What?

To narrow down exactly where you need to dig, pinpoint the signal. Move the searchcoil in a north-south/east-west pattern, listening and looking at the meter for the strongest tone. When you scan over something that the detector indicates is large and possibly made of a desirable metal, it’s best to start with a probe, like an old screwdriver. Probing lets you determine if there really is something below the soil at the depth indicated and avoids the need to dig an unnecessary hole.

If you decide to dig, one of the tenets of the hobby is to not leave a bunch of ankle-breaking holes in your wake — which can also be a dead giveaway of your position if you’re trying to stay low profile in a long-term, post-SHTF scenario. The best way to do this and also not kill the vegetation is to cut a plug. Plugs are cut by going half to two-thirds of the diameter of the hole you’re digging down about 3 to 4 inches and simply flipping the cut plug up.

It should allow you to continue probing and digging for your treasure. When done, replace the loose dirt and flip the plug back in place. (By the way, that’s a good tip if you have to repair a sprinkler head in your yard, too.)

A key note once you’ve secured said find: no field cleaning! Don’t attempt to clean valuable items until you’re back home; mistakes can reduce value of the find. Record the find and location in your log. If your detector features GPS capability, lock in the coordinates so you can return to the exact spot again.

Above: Not bad for a lunch hour at the park playground … 9mm casings were a disturbing find, though good if you’re in a post-SHTF scenario and can reload your own ammo.

Final Thoughts

The author’s home state of Colorado is dotted with more than 1,500 ghost towns. That’s as close a figure as can be determined due to poor recordkeeping back in those boomtown days. Unsubstantiated legends abound as well.

Unfortunately, many are located on BLM or state park lands, and laws — starting with the American Antiquities Act of 1906 — prevent the treasure hunter from removing anything from those areas with just a few exceptions (such as U.S. coins minted less than 100 years ago). However, some are located on private property and, with permission, could yield some very historical or valuable items.

When you go out coin shooting or prospecting, you’ll need these basic items besides the actual detector: hand pinpointer, probe, trowel, knee pads, knife, log book and pen, golf tees, and sharpened pencils or surveyor’s flags (for marking locations). Plus, a flashlight, gloves, spare batteries, and trash bags are all essentials in your kit. A sifter is necessary if you’re heading for the beach.

Lastly, these units are mostly made up of modern plastics and don’t require a lot of care and feeding. If storing for a while, be certain to remove the batteries and place the unit on a shelf or someplace where it cannot fall or be stepped on. Also avoid storing where it will be subjected to high heat, such as a furnace room.

Local clubs are a great source of information and expertise. Some may even have access to private lands. Also, the old-timers can save you a lot of headaches by cluing you in on nuances of local laws. Metal detecting has become a popular hobby for thousands of folks around the world as well. Europe is a big detecting country — so much so that White Electronics has even opened a plant in Scotland to meet the demand.

Sources


KADRI Clothing Valkyrie Pants for Women

We’ve often heard ladies expressing frustration over clothing that offers an imbalance of form and function — either it looks good and fits well but lacks functional pockets and durable materials, or it has those desirable features but fits poorly and looks extremely unflattering. This is an understandable source of frustration, since the majority of shooting and duty-oriented apparel seems to be designed for men first, then redesigned to fit women as an afterthought. In November 2019, the founders of KADRI Clothing set out to solve this problem with the creation of their first product, the women’s Valkyrie pants.

KADRI Clothing was founded by female U.S. Special Operations Forces veterans, including OFFGRID contributor Eryn Chase. They often found themselves tailoring men’s pants in order to get the features they wanted — moisture-wicking, quick-drying, breathable, and abrasion-resistant fabric as well as plenty of pockets. Eventually, this led them to start from scratch and create their own Valkyrie pants.

The KADRI Clothing Valkyrie pants feature 72 different size combinations thanks to the company’s signature WHVR Matrix sizing system. Ladies can simply measure their waist, hips, and inseam, and KADRI uses these measurements to find the right size. The Valkyrie pants also feature stretchy gussets in the crotch and waist to improve flexibility and comfort, plus numerous reinforcements to maximize durability. And, of course there’s an abundance of pockets (11, to be exact).

The Valkyrie field pants are made in the USA and currently available in High Desert Field Tan and Titan Grey. MSRP is $220. For more information, go to KADRIclothing.com.


Kershaw Tumbler Folding Knife

While walking the aisles at SHOT Show, we stopped by the Kershaw/Zero Tolerance knives booth to see what new products these brands had on display. While each had an array of brand-new and recently-released designs to show us, one knife in particular caught our attention: the Kershaw Tumbler.

This folder feels almost like a crossover between Kershaw and the high-end ZT line, since several of its features exceed those present on the typical $60 folders you may be familiar with. The blade is made of D2, a high-carbon tool steel that we’d consider an upgrade from the 8Cr13MoV stainless Kershaw has been using in the past. Its handle is machined from G10 with a thin decorative layer of carbon fiber built into the resin, and it connects to the blade via a smooth KVT ball bearing pivot.

The Kershaw Tumbler was designed by Dmitry Sinkevich, and exhibits the characteristic curvature seen in other Sinkevich designs (like the ZT 0462 we previously reviewed). However, we appreciate that the blade is broad and the curvature is mild, making this a knife that seems like a practical choice for EDC.

This knife is finished with a sub-frame lock, lanyard hole, and deep carry pocket clip (reversible for left- or right-handed tip-up carry). The Tumbler will be available soon at an MSRP of $110. For more info, go to KershawKnives.com.


5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. Footwear

At SHOT Show 2020, we stopped by the 5.11 Tactical booth to check out some of the new products the company launched at the show. One of the most notable announcements was a major addition to the 5.11 footwear line, known as the new A.T.L.A.S. series. These shoes and boots bridge the gap between military-style duty gear and sport-oriented consumer footwear, and they place a strong emphasis on comfort while carrying heavy loads.

A.T.L.A.S. stands for All Terrain Load Assistance System, which speaks to this purpose. Most of us have experienced foot soreness while hiking or walking with a loaded backpack — all that weight is distributed onto the soles of your feet. 5.11 Tactical addressed this issue by combining a proprietary high-rebound foam with a stiff A.T.L.A.S. support plate. The plate is designed to spread your weight and offer stability, while the foam cushions each step.

The 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line has initially launched with three models: low-cut trainer, mid-cut boot, and 8-inch boot. The latter is available in standard and side-zip variants. Note: the trainer does not include the stiffened support plate, and is therefore better-suited to comfort with lighter packs.

These models will be offered in black and dark coyote tan. MSRP is $120 for the trainer, $140 for the mid-cut boot, and $150 for the 8-inch boot. We’ve already snagged a pair of the trainer shoes, so we’ll be trying them out soon and reporting back with our thoughts.

For more information on the 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line, go to 511tactical.com.


Blue-Green Alliance Dynamic Marksmanship Class

We appreciate high-end guns and gear as much as anyone, but it’s worthless to have the best tools money can buy if you aren’t capable of using them effectively when lives are on the line. Unless your ultimate goal is to show off your purchases on social media, you’d better be investing time and money into training. At the end of the day, the skills and confidence you carry within weigh nothing, will never be depleted, and are worth a thousand times more than the items in your pockets or your holster. With this in mind, we set a goal to receive more professional survival skill instruction in 2020, and started out with the Blue-Green Alliance Dynamic Marksmanship Class.

For one of our first steps in this educational journey, two members of our staff — myself and OFFGRID’s head Editor, Tom Marshall — attended a two-day Dynamic Marksmanship pistol class here in our home state of Arizona. The class was taught by Blue-Green Alliance, a firearms training company founded by two Force Recon Marines named Josh and Gabe.

The duo set out to use their military experience to help members of the law enforcement community become more proficient with their service weapons, hence the use of “green” and “blue” in the name. They also welcome civilians who wish to improve their concealed-carry preparedness and marksmanship. Their unique approach to training incorporates elements of sports psychology and biomechanics, because they believe there’s much shooters can learn from the way high-level athletes train.

Read on as Tom and I recount some of the biggest successes, biggest challenges, favorite drills, and lessons learned from this Blue-Green Alliance pistol class.

Biggest Success

Patrick McCarthy
I’ll preface this by saying that I am what some of you might consider a novice shooter — essentially the opposite end of the spectrum from Tom. I’ve spent a decent amount of time plinking at ranges over the last ten years, and often practice my draw and dry fire drills at home. I felt I had established a baseline level of competence to defend myself, but I knew I had lots of room to improve, having never received any formal pistol shooting instruction. That had to change, and there was no better time than the present.

Although my performance on the course paled in comparison to other shooters in the class — most of whom had prior military and/or law enforcement experience — I felt that my biggest success at the class was the rate at which I improved. Both Gabe and Josh were patient and encouraging instructors, and offered tips on how to improve my form. More importantly, they helped me learn to self-diagnose mistakes. I soon found myself correctly identifying what I had done wrong after a run, and this has allowed me to keep improving after the class ended.

The net result is that after two days on the range and more than 800 rounds fired, I feel dramatically more confident and consistent with a handgun.

Tom Marshall
On paper (no pun intended) my biggest success was winning the final shoot-off. It was truly a stroke of luck, as far as I’m concerned. All the same, it’s an honor to have made top shot at Blue-Green Alliance’s inaugural class.

Above: As top shooter at the class, Tom received a certificate and a slick new knife from Half Face Blades.

What I feel was more important was finally finding something I’ve personally been searching for most of the last decade — instructors who are teaching marksmanship with the backing of empirically-quantified performance science, as opposed to regurgitating the same anecdotal lessons and buzz phrases that have been repeated since the mid-1960s. The guys at Blue-Green Alliance, in my opinion, are really onto something with their unconventional methods. And they are tracking hard data to prove the efficacy of their system. It’s a refreshing break to see an athletic, mentally-engaging endeavor taught with science, instead of with history.

Biggest Challenge

Patrick McCarthy
Three words have been ingrained in my mind from this class: prep, confirm, roll. Every student had to speak these words out loud hundreds of times while performing the associated actions — draw the gun to the ready position and prep the trigger by holding it at the break point, confirm that the sights are aligned on the target, and roll more pressure onto the trigger to smoothly fire a shot. Saying these words while drawing and firing took time to get used to. Still, my biggest challenge by far was the unspoken step that comes immediately afterward: reset to recoil.

“Roll” is spoken out loud just as each shot is fired.

After the roll fires a shot, the trigger must be reset before firing a second shot. Many shooters (myself included) have formed the habit of pinning the trigger as far back as it’ll go until the gun is back on target, then releasing pressure until the audible “click” that indicates the trigger has been reset. This manifests as bang …pause… click, bang. This may be fine if you’re looking for single-shot precision, but in a dynamic real-world environment (such as a self-defense situation) you’ll probably need to fire multiple shots in fast succession. That means that your trigger should be reset and ready to go before the weapon is back on target.

Reset to recoil essentially means resetting the trigger during the gun’s recoil impulse, so that by the time it’s stable and you’ve re-acquired the sight picture, you’ll be able to accurately fire a second shot without jerking the trigger or waiting for the reset. That may sound easy on paper, but I found it monumentally difficult in practice. It’s tough to back off the trigger juuuust far enough that it’s reset — but not so far that you’re lifting off entirely — during the split-second recoil movement. My aforementioned bad habit of slowly resetting during dry fire practice and range trips compounded the issue.

Thankfully, Josh stood next to me on the range and offered one-on-one feedback when I was doing well, and when I wasn’t. This helped me recognize the issue and work to improve it.

Tom Marshall
For me, the biggest challenge was de-programming scars from conventional training – not just in terms of how I shoot, but in my whole mindset going into training. For example, re-learning the draw stroke in two steps, instead of four or five, was pretty significant to me. Not having the path of draw (exactly how the gun moves from the holster to full extension) laid out for me was interesting. At first, it seemed as if their method was missing something, which was fine for me, since I already had my draw nailed down and just filled in these perceived gaps with pre-existing knowledge. But the more times I watched them demonstrate this streamlined technique, and the more time I’ve had since the class to marinate on it, I wish I’d learned it this way.

The BGA instructors explained it like this: “Why teach extra steps which you just have to buff out later?” I understand this logic, but I believe there’s even more benefit to it than that, which I’ll explain in a minute.

In terms of adjusting my mindset, I had never been to an open-enrollment class that focused so heavily on dry fire before. Having been through a dozen or so open-enrollment classes plus a decade of carrying guns professionally, stepping up onto a line of your peers just to dry fire was almost anti-climactic. If I hadn’t been so intrigued by their science-backed training methodology, I’d have been pretty frustrated – especially considering I conduct regular dry fire practice at home and, on the surface, don’t need to drive an hour from home and pay someone to watch me click away on an empty gun. But, especially first thing in the morning, the dedicated dry fire time helped “prime the pump” or “knock the rust off” or however you want to phrase it so that, by the time we went live, I didn’t need a warm-up string to reach my most capable levels of accuracy.

Above: For a closer look at Tom’s custom Glock 19, refer to our recent article “Editor’s EDC Gear Overhaul – New Year, New Me.”

But beyond either of these, perhaps my biggest challenge was the old walk-and-chew-gum trick. For all of day one and part of day two, the instructors insisted we say (out loud) what we were doing as we drew, presented and fired. It sounds simple. Maybe even a little silly. But, in the words of the Blue-Green instructors: “if it’s so simple, why can’t you do it?” And they were right. Having to actually engage my conscious thinking brain in order to form words and push them out while also firing and manipulating my weapon to the acceptable accuracy standard proved to be maddeningly difficult.

Favorite Drill

Patrick McCarthy
By the end of the first day of the class, prep-confirm-roll had started to feel more natural, and we had integrated it with speed-reloads, follow-up shots, and target transitions. During the second day, the complexity ratcheted up again with the addition of moving and shooting from cover. Blue barrels were set up on the firing line, and students were tasked with shooting from behind one barrel, moving to the next, and shooting another target (all while performing the same verbal exercises). But for me, the most interesting element was the constant variation.

Once we all ran through the shoot-move-shoot segment, the instructors walked out and reconfigured the target positions at random, then told us to run the drill again. Next, more targets were added into the mix. In some cases, the cardboard “bad guy” on one target would line up with the white hostage overlaid on a second target a few yards downrange. If you shot without factoring this in, you’d end up killing a hostage in the background — a literal representation of the safety rule “know your target and what is beyond.” Students were simply told to shoot each course as efficiently as possible, leading to each student approaching it a little differently. Some crouched down to change the pass-through angle, some shot on the move between cover, and some peeked around the far side of the barrel to get a different perspective.

This drill, with its heavy emphasis on varying circumstances and on-the-fly problem-solving, was my favorite from the course. It was a substantial challenge, and I clipped more hostages than I’d like to admit. But if you’re forced to draw on an adversary in the real world, you won’t be standing calmly face-to-face, ten yards apart with a sand berm backstop. You’ll probably be facing a chaotic situation with a high risk of collateral damage, just as Blue-Green Alliance simulated in this drill.

Tom Marshall
My favorite drill, if it can be called a drill, was simply being forced to describe what I was doing as I was doing it, with live rounds going down range. It’s slap-your-forehead simple and, if you’ve never tried it, sounds so trivial as to not be worth your time. But when you’re on the clock, in front of your peers, and it’s time to talk and press at the same time, you’d be surprised how quick the wheels fall off. But what this did was make me realize how much of my marksmanship and weapons handling is truly subconscious – or, how much of it should be.

Lessons Learned


Patrick McCarthy
Given my lack of prior formal training, I went into this class concerned that the challenge might exceed my skill level. Thankfully, Josh and Gabe started with fundamentals and steadily cranked up the pressure. I always felt challenged, but never felt completely overwhelmed. By the end of the class, my hands were sore from hundreds of weapon manipulations, my brain was buzzing with drills, and my range bag was a whole lot lighter due to the ammo expended.

I walked away knowing that I still have a tremendous amount to learn, but also felt encouraged by my ability to improve. We started with simple dry fire practice, something I’ve done countless times. We finished with drills that involved shooting from cover, speed-reloading, running between barricades, transitioning between multiple targets, and avoiding collateral damage to hostages. Though my performance was far from smooth, the instructors at Blue-Green Alliance patiently gave me the one-on-one guidance I needed to gain confidence in an area that was previously way outside my comfort zone.

Tom Marshall
The bottom line is I wish I’d had this kind of training earlier in my career.

The guys at Blue-Green Alliance have structured their curriculum in way that allows students to learn, instead of teaching them specific, broken-down skills. In a matter of 12 training hours, we went from dry fire draw-and-present to shooting on the move, shooting multiple targets, shooting multi-round strings, dealing with no-shoot targets and tactical problem solving/stage strategy. While I have been exposed to all of these skills in previous classes, I attended probably a half-dozen separate classes that allowed me to piece all of these individual skills together. The BGA philosophy synthesizes these ancillary principles into an entry-level fundamentals class that doesn’t come with a laundry list of prerequisites.

For future Blue-Green Alliance training dates and more information on its instructors, visit BlueGreen-Alliance.com.

Read More


All Tied Up: 10 Easy Survival Knots

Most people begin learning knots at an early age. Once the shoelaces are secure, though, knot fluency usually drops like a rock. There isn’t much of a push to teach rope competency at any age beyond shoe tying. In fact, it’s safe to say the majority of people subscribe to the ever-popular “if you can’t tie a knot, tie a lot” theory.

In 1999, I became a firefighter and learned a handful of knots required for the job; then a few years later I joined our Technical Rescue Team. Being a part of a squad whose primary responsibility is rope rescue required me to up my knot game. When public safety depends on one’s knot-tying abilities, more skill is required than continually wrapping and tucking the rope until it looks like something that will probably hold.

Whether you’re a card-carrying prepper, an avid outdoorsman, or one who simply recognizes the potential need to tie, hoist, drag, or secure, proficiency in tying a few easy and key knots is a critical skill that should be learned.

So, which knots are the most important?

The answer is as hotly contested among rope purists as the Glock-versus-1911 debate is in the handgun community. This article is less about settling that argument and more about identifying 10 relatively easy-to-tie knots that offer a solid foundation for your knot-tying skillset. Read on to untangle any confusion you might have about survival tethering.

Knot Glossary

Bight: A curved section in the rope where the two sections lie alongside each other — think U-shape.

Loop: A circle placed in the rope with the ends crossing each other.

Round Turn: Two passes of the rope that make a complete circle.

Standing End: The remainder of the rope not involved in tying the knot.

Working End: The end of the rope used to tie the knot (also called the running end).

Survival Knot #1: Figure-of-Eight Loop

Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆

Functions: This knot has virtually unlimited uses, such as hoisting gear, pulling limbs or debris, rappelling, and climbing.

Directions
Step 1: Place a bight in the rope.
Step 2: Fold the bight over (in essence creating another bight).
Step 3: Wrap the bight one full time around both standing parts.
Step 4: Tuck the bight through the top of the knot (the second bight you created in step 2).
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #2: Figure-of-Eight Follow Through

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: As a variant of the first knot, this has the same vast variety of uses, but additionally allows you to tie the knot around an object when you don’t have access to the end of the object to loop the figure-of-eight over.

Directions
Step 1: Tie a Figure-of-Eight in the rope with enough working end to wrap around your anchor and trace back through the knot.
Step 2: Wrap the working end around your anchor.
Step 3: Place the working end against the standing end and trace the working end through the knot.
Step 4: Dress the knot so the turns don’t cross each other.
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #3: Overhand Knot with a Drawloop

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: The draw loop is wrapped around the load (gear, animal carcass, human victim, litter, etc.). As the knot is weighted, the loop cinches tight, securing the load. When the load is relieved, the knot can easily be released by pulling the working end of the rope.

Directions
Step 1: Tie an Overhand Knot.
Step 2: Wrap the working end around the anchor and back through the loop created in step 1.
Step 3: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #4: Alpine Butterfly

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: This knot offers a three-way pull. One can wrap a rope around an object and tie an Alpine Butterfly. Then, an object can be clipped or tied to the Alpine Butterfly — and it won’t compromise the rope or knot due to the three-way pull. The Alpine Butterfly can be used any time a loop is required in the middle of the rope, such as securing a shelter or elevating food away from wild animals.

Directions
Step 1: Drape the rope over your open hand at an angle extending away from your thumb.
Step 2: Bring the rope around and over the front of the hand, crossing the first wrap and forming an X.
Step 3: Continue wrapping one more time around the hand, working closer to your thumb.
Step 4: Pull slack in the center of the three wraps and lay the loose rope on your hand facing back toward your wrist.
Step 5: Tuck that loop under the X toward your fingertips.
Step 6: Withdraw your hand from the knot and pull the standing ends in one direction and the bight in the other.
Step 7: The knot is complete when you pull the two standing ends apart from each other, popping the knot into its final position.

Note: As with many knots, there are multiple ways to tie the Alpine Butterfly. If this method doesn’t click for you, research other ways to tie this important knot.

Survival Knot #5: Constrictor Knot

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: The Constrictor can be utilized as whipping at the end of a rope, a clamp to hold things down, or to hoist, drag, or grip around a group of objects. It can also be used in any scenario when you need to secure a rope to an object or an object to a rope, and doesn’t require access to the end of the object. This is possibly the most useful and common of the binding knots.

Directions
Step 1: Wrap the rope around whatever is to be tied.
Step 2: Lay the working end across its own standing part.
Step 3: Tuck the working end around the object again creating an X.
Step 4: Lead the working end beneath the diagonal part of the X that was just created.
Step 5: Tuck the working end under the first crossing turn.
Step 6: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #6: Pile Hitch

Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆

Functions: Used to quickly tie a rope to a pole, post, or tree. The Pile Hitch is often used to tie off a watercraft or to secure an animal. While it isn’t even considered a knot by some purists, this knot provides one of the easiest ways to tie a hitch.

Directions
Step 1: Make a bight in the rope.
Step 2: Wrap the bight around the post or object, passing the bight underneath both standing ends.
Step 3: Pass the bight over the top of the post or object.
Step 4: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #7: Double Fisherman

Difficulty: ★★★★☆

Functions: A tad more difficult to tie than the rest in this bunch, this knot can be used to securely tie two lengths of rope together. Whenever a single rope is not long enough to accomplish a task, the Double Fisherman can potentially save the day.

Directions
Step 1: Place the two ropes parallel to one another.
Step 2: Make a bight in rope No. 1.
Step 3-4: Create a figure eight working back toward its own standing end, making sure you finish it by tucking the working end under both ropes 1 and 2.
Step 5: Pull both ends of rope No. 1 to secure it to rope No. 2.
Step 6-7: With the working end of rope No. 2, repeat step 3, tying it around rope No. 1.
Step 8: Pull the ropes apart, drawing the knots in together.

Survival Knot #8: Simple Simon Under

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: Another knot used to tie two ropes together, the Simple Simon Under is especially useful for tying wet, synthetic rope together.

Directions
Step 1: Make a bight in rope No. 1. Tuck the working end of rope No. 2 through the bight in rope No. 1.
Step 2: Wrap the working end of rope No. 2 over both the working and standing ends of rope 1.
Step 3: Continue wrapping over the working and standing ends of rope No. 1.
Step 4: Crossing the working end under itself, tuck it back into the back of the bight in rope 1.
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #9: Handcuff Knot

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: This can be quickly tied and placed around a victim’s wrists or ankles to remove them from harm or around an animal to drag it.

Directions
Step 1: Put two loops in the rope side by side, one clockwise and one counterclockwise.
Step 2: Partially overlap the two loops with the clockwise loop on the bottom (at this point, the knot will look like a pretzel).
Step 3-4: Pull the leading edge of the clockwise loop through the back of the knot and the counterclockwise loop through the front.

Survival Knot #10: Daisy Chain

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: Although not a knot, the Daisy Chain is an extremely useful method to store rope for rapid deployment.

Directions
Step 1: Locate the center of the rope.
Step 2: Create a Half Hitch.
Step 3: Pull both legs of the standing end up through the loop in the Half Hitch just enough to make a bight.
Step 4: While holding the newly formed bight, pull the standing end and the bight with the two rope ends.
Step 5: Place the two working parts of the rope up into the bight just far enough to make another bight.
Step 6: Continue tucking the two working parts of the rope up into the most recently formed bight just enough to create another bight. Do this until the entire rope is “chained.” To untie, simply pull the ends of the rope and the chain comes undone.

Conclusion

Tied Knot isolated on white background

With these 10 knots, you can now use rope as a tool to enhance your life, bolster your survival skills, and wow your friends. Remember you were only able to learn how to tie your shoes by repetition. Cut yourself a piece of rope and, as you binge watch your favorite TV show, tie these knots over and over again. Create the muscle memory to afford you the ability to tie them under the stress of a disastrous scenario. It’s far better to learn them in the comfort of your chair rather than on your back in the throes of a disaster.

About the Author

Scott Finazzo has been a firefighter for more than 20 years and a longtime member of his fire department’s Technical Rescue Team. He has authored five books, including The Prepper’s Guide to Knots and the national bestselling The Prepper’s Workbook. He also wrote Why Do All the Locals Think We’re Crazy? about his kayak trip through the Virgin Islands. www.scottfinazzo.com

More From Issue 19

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid’s free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 20

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 18

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Maxpedition Prepared Citizen Deluxe Backpack

There’s a time and place for large-capacity military-style packs covered in PALS webbing, MOLLE pouches, and expansion straps. They’re great for range days, backcountry hikes, or long-term sustainment situations. However, when it comes to every-day carry around town, we prefer something more discreet and streamlined. We’re therefore pleased to see more gear companies offering lower-profile options for urban EDC. Maxpedition recently launched a new pack in this style known as the Prepared Citizen Deluxe.

The Maxpedition Prepared Citizen Deluxe is a follow-up to the company’s popular Prepared Citizen Classic, a pack that closely resembles a ubiquitous bookbag design we’re all familiar with. This new Deluxe variant adds more capacity, compartments, and features while maintaining a relatively-innocuous appearance. Both feature sturdy 1,000D nylon fabric with double-stitching and reinforcements, YKK zippers, and Duraflex buckles. There’s also a hidden rear CCW compartment for a weapon or ballistic panel.

The Prepared Citizen Deluxe pack’s interior features loop-lined panels for addition of pouches, pockets, or a holster. Each side of the pack also now has an expandable bottle holder, a feature we’re glad to see implemented. Total capacity is 32L, plenty for a daypack or get-home bag.

This pack is available now in four colors: Wolf Grey, Dark Blue, Black, and OD Green. MSRP is $110, but at this article’s time of publication, it’s on sale for $89. There’s also a limited-time code on the product page for a free hook-backed holster for the CCW compartment. For more information on this pack, go to Maxpedition.com.


Book Review: “The Final Day” by William Forstchen

The Premise: The best-selling John Matherson series began with 2011’s One Second After, a realistic portrayal of life after an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) weapon sends the United States into a new Dark Age. In the series’ third installment, The Final Day, a messenger is sent to find John; however, his perilous journey proves too much, and he only manages to get a partial and cryptic message to Forrest’s settlement. The remaining citizens of Black Mountain, North Carolina, are finally starting to make progress rebuilding after “The Day,” but a new threat looms.

The 411: The Final Day was written by William R. Forstchen, an American historian and novelist. If you have some back issues of Boys’ Life from the late ’70s you read some of his earliest work. His writing in the John Matherson series exemplifies his expertise, with multiple references to important historical events that parallel or give further insight into the story. One Second After was even cited in Congress as a realistic depiction of the possible aftermath of an EMP attack on the continental USA.

The Verdict: Unfortunately, a lot of post-apocalyptic books tend to focus on two things: a corrupt government and EMPs. This series doesn’t deviate from this paradigm, but manages to keep itself from feeling tired or overdone thanks to believable storytelling.

The protagonists do suffer, get hurt, and don’t have all the answers. Characters are fleshed out and aren’t one-dimensional.

The people of Black Mountain and the surrounding area try to regain some of what was lost, such as power, communication, and a sustainable source of food. It’s interesting to see how the town has formed its own working militia based out of Montreat College. These battle-hardened shells of what were once kids are now the town’s first line of defense against enemies both foreign and domestic. There’s a bit too much civil-war talk, but still, it adds to the story.

Will John use their precious fuel reserves acquired from Fredericks Army of National Recovery in One Year After to see if what the messenger said was true? Is John’s old friend and former commanding officer, General Bob Scales, still alive? Or will they hunker down to prepare for something that could be far worse?

The series as a whole covers important topics that any survivalist can learn from, such as how to enforce law, priorities to focus on, the importance of hygiene, and the need for a strong community. The occasional bits of news the survivors receive about the condition of states like Florida being all but wiped out help build the tension. Real issues like the process of rebuilding are a key point.

The plot in The Final Day wasn’t as strong as the first two novels, but still kept us wanting more. After all, it’s pretty hard to compare any sequel to what some consider one of the best most accurate portrayals of life following a world-changing EMP event.

Novel & Author
The Final Day
by William R. Forstchen

Publisher
Forge Books

MSRP
$26 (hardcover), $13 (ebook)

URL
us.macmillan.com/torforge

Pages
352

Genre
Post-apocalyptic fiction

Rating
Thrive
> Survive
Die


OFFGRID Library of Recommended Books

More From Issue 19

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid’s free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 20

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 18

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


RECOILweb: SureFire Stiletto Pro Review

The following article was originally published by our sister publication RECOIL. It appears here in its entirety with permission. For more articles on guns, training, and gear, go to RECOILweb.com.

We always love a good sequel. The SureFire Stiletto Pro fits the bill.

If you are familiar with the original Stiletto, and a fan of the product, you will love this one. The Stiletto Pro is basically the standard Stiletto on steroids. The new version includes a number of new features and upgrades. We asked SureFire Public Relations Manager Andrew Wright about the product, and he said, “The Stiletto Pro is the big brother to the standard Stiletto. Still maintaining the awesome profile for EDC, the Pro has an aluminum body for increased durability and heat transfer. The Pro has 1,000 lumens and a new reflector, giving far greater candela and output than the standard Stiletto.” We were excited to receive a sample to walk through a side-by-side comparison.

Output

Let’s be honest, the most critical feature of a personal light is output. With output, in lumens, we are concerned about battery life and also the ability to switch between different modes. If you are using a light for work, a lower mode is applicable for map reading or tasks in front of you, while a high mode is preferred for targeting a person or object at distance. The Stiletto Pro has both, and is an upgrade in energy from the Stiletto.

Most importantly, the Pro utilizes SureFire’s proprietary MaxVision Beam reflector. As Wright describes, Maxvision is “created by a special faceted reflector that shapes the LED’s light into a smooth, seamless wall of light that’s perfect for close-range applications and maintaining situational awareness.” What you receive is a very clear light that exposes every detail for a variety of applications.

The Stiletto Pro has three modes of high, medium, low, at lumens of 1,000, 300, and 25, respectively. A 1,000 lumens is a lot of light. As a comparison, the popular SureFire Scout light for rifles has a max output of 1,500 lumens. The Pro offers an output close to the Scout, but in a much smaller form factor. Below you can see the difference between the two models in both output, and battery life.

Stiletto

  • High: 650 Lumens/1.75 Hours
  • Medium: 250 Lumens/2 Hours
  • Low: 5 Lumens/30 Hours

Stiletto Pro

  • High: 1,000 Lumens/1 Hour
  • Medium: 300 Lumens/1.5 Hours
  • Low: 25 Lumens/23.5 Hours

Form Factor

Weight and size are critical components of any light for on-duty use. If you think back to the days of a police officer carrying a foot-long Maglite on their duty belt, you’ll understand how far we’ve come. SureFire has driven home the concept of smaller, easier-to-use lights without sacrificing performance.

The Stiletto Pro weighs approximately 4.0 ounces, compared to the Stiletto’s 2.8 ounces. You will notice the slight weight difference if you are doing a side by side comparison, but with that weight comes enhanced durability. The Stiletto Pro is 4.5 inches long compared to the Stilleto with 4.45 inches.

The Stiletto Pro boasts an all-new aerospace aluminum body and mil-spec hard anodized for tremendous durability. The original Stiletto was composed of a lightweight polymer with only an anodized tip. While the Stiletto is still very durable, the Pro is next-level.

The form factor allows the user to fit the product in most pockets, and be drawn like a knife. Its Melonite-coated clip steel clip is reversible, while the standard Stiletto was not. The ability to switch the steel clip is a great option. Right-handed, I deployed the standard Stiletto and have to rotate the light to enter my natural grip. With the Stiletto Pro, I adjusted the clip so that the deployment is one motion.

The ease of deployment makes a difference when performing under duress or even movement. Both models have a similar light activation mechanism that matches the anatomy in our hand. With a natural grip, the activation buttons are extremely easy to access and manipulate. Both models also have an additional ‘tactical tail switch’ that deploys the high mode– perfect for using in short bursts to disorient an attacker or move a crowd.

Both models use a micro-USB port for easy recharging. But if you don’t like a light that requires recharging instead of replaceable batteries, a Stiletto isn’t for you. There is a difference in price between the two models. The Stiletto Pro is $229.00 MSRP and the standard Stiletto is $109.00 MSRP.

Conclusion

As a professional end-user, I would recommend the Stiletto Pro due to its durability, output options, and clip functionality. While the standard Stiletto is still a great option for recreational needs, the power and ruggedness of the Pro are exceptional. The Stiletto Pro is a great reminder of why SureFire is still viewed by many as the gold standard in terms of tactical lights.

For more information on this flashlight, visit SureFire.com.