A Guide to Knife Sharpeners and Sharpening

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On a recent visit to a major sporting goods store that had a counter dedicated to blade sharpeners, a woman took out a folding knife from her pocket, turned on a sample grinder, and just stuck the blade directly into it. This author noticed and said, “You might not want to do that.” She pulled her knife out of the machine and the blade tip was rounded, plus the edges were beat to hell. Her husband said, “I’m glad you said something or I would have just stuck my Benchmade in there just like she did.”

Since the dawn of mankind, the most basic survival tool has been the blade. Its basic requirement is a sharp cutting edge. Surprisingly, maintaining that edge seems to be a lost art.

One of this author’s shooting mentors, Rob Virkus, was fond of saying, “There are two completely useless things in the world: an unloaded handgun and a dull knife.” When knife blades go dull there are three options: dispose of the knife, return the knife to the manufacturer for sharpening, or sharpen the blade yourself.

The first choice is typically used for only the cheapest knives or by people who don’t appreciate the value of a decent blade. The second is the mark of a user who lacks the skill, confidence, or tools to undertake the task of sharpening on their own or maybe someone who has a somewhat valuable piece with a particular edge that lost its factory grind and it needs to be restored by the maker. As a rule, if a knife must be returned to the manufacturer for something as basic as sharpening, it’s probably not intended to be a working knife to begin with.

Readers of OFFGRID tend to be a self-reliant group. We like to do things for ourselves, on our own whenever possible. In some circumstances it may be our only option. When that happens, we want to be able to keep our tools sharp — both proverbially and literally.

Repetition Equals Skill

Sharpening with any device requires a basic understanding of how the sharpener is meant to be used. Before using any sharpener, you must read the manual and understand the instructions. If you don’t know the angle of your blade grind, contact the manufacturer and find out. Sharpening at an incorrect angle will result in changing the profile of the blade.

Always start slowly and use precise, deliberate strokes. The key to a proper edge is in being consistent. Forcing the blade can damage the sharpener or the knife, and it can create a thick burr on the edge that will be difficult to remove.

Whether you are restoring a completely dull piece of steel or using the finest stone available to touch up an edge, always remember that you’re removing metal. There is a learning curve. It’s best to start out with the cheapest knives in your house, like the set of steak knives that your uncle gave you as a Christmas present 10 years ago.

Sharpening Stones

sharpening-stone

The stone is the most basic type of sharpener available. It is quite literally a stone, just available in various degrees of coarseness or grit (from extra coarse to extra fine). These are most commonly produced from natural silicates found in Arkansas or India. Manmade versions are produced by companies such as DMT, which rely on the same principle of a flat abrasive sharpener, but use microscopic diamonds bonded to a metal surface.

Stones can be used dry or with water as a lubricant. Some manufacturers recommend water-based honing oils instead. These products work as advertised, but once oil is used on a stone or aluminum-oxide sharpener, it cannot use water again.

The major downside to natural stones is that they wear down and are prone to breakage. Their relatively low cost may mitigate this somewhat, but if you’re on the move and have one in a sheath pouch or in a pack, it may not be usable when you need it.

Secondly, most stones have no guide and the user needs to know how to gauge the angle by eyesight. As basic as they may be, stones are not ideal for a complete beginner.

Manual Sharpeners

chefs-choice-sports-diamond-hone-sharpener

These are the most basic sharpeners on the market and include the previously mentioned stones, but in this case some of the guesswork has been taken out with regard to angles. The easiest ones to use are the “pull through” types offered by companies like Chef’s Choice. The sharpener is either mounted to a counter or held down in place with one hand and the blade is pulled through from the choil to the tip. The sharpener uses integral stones or sticks of varying degrees of grit and set at predetermined angles. A few strokes on the coarse stone will tune the edge and expose more carbide. The finer stones will refine these and result in a basic and durable sharpening job. They are rugged, lightweight, and portable.

Another variant on the manual sharpener is known as “the sticks.” The sticks form a V-shape and the knife is sharpened by bringing the blade down and rearward in one smooth and continuous motion.

By far the best one we have found has been the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpener. Spyderco is mostly known for its innovative and cutting-edge knife designs, but it was this sharpener that gave the Colorado-based company its start.

spyderco-tri-angle-sharpener

The Tri-Angle breaks down for easy storage and portability. What makes this sharpener different from all the others, in this author’s opinion, is the choice of using a plastic base. Many lesser designs use wood and the uncoated rods wear away at this much quicker than they do on a knife blade. The result is an inconsistent angle that will give you an inconsistent grind. In this day and age, people try to save money where they can, but that extra $10 or $20 savings can potentially ruin a much more expensive blade.

Dynamic Sharpeners

Up to now, all of the sharpeners we have discussed are of the static type. This makes sense because we want consistency and stability in our sharpening. A dynamic sharpener is different in that the knife blade is stabilized and it’s the stone that comes into contact with it on the part of the user. In essence it’s how the majority of manufacturers put the factory edge on their knives.

The best sharpener of this type in our experience has been the Lansky system. There is a bit more of a learning curve than with the others, but it’s not very steep. The knife blade is secured in a padded clamp that has various holes indicating different angles. A stone or hone is fastened to a rod and then the rod is inserted into the hole. The hone makes contact with the blade at this angle and is moved back and forth from choil to tip on each side. It is a series of very coarse to very fine stones allowing everything from a quick touch up to a complete restoration.

lansky-knife-sharpener

Aside from the brief learning curve, we have found this system doesn’t work well with particularly long or thick blades. If the majority of your blades are shorter than 8 inches and less than a ¼-inch thick, it might be one of the better systems out there for you.

Mechanized Sharpeners

There are a lot of myths about using a powered sharpener. Unfortunately, many of these types, such as the rotating stone included on many electric can openers for maintaining kitchen knives are essentially worthless and the hazards associated with these and common stone grinding wheels have contributed to a huge amount of misinformation.

We found one sharpener that stands out from the rest. It is made by Work Sharp and this particular model was designed by none other than famed knife-maker Ken Onion.

Using a mechanical Worksharp knife sharpener.

The Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition is a scaled-down belt grinder. There are guides on either side of the belts and the angle is completely adjustable. The belts are available in a variety of grits, and a leather belt for buffing or stropping an edge is included to really make that final result pop.

Like the pull-through model by Chef’s Choice, set the choil of the blade in the guide and slowly squeeze the trigger on the beltdrive. Pull the knife rearward and stop before you get to the tip or else it will round. Do this as many times as you need to while counting to 10, and then grind the other side.

The biggest myth about a system like this is that you will ruin the temper or heat-treatment of your blade as if you had used a motor-driven grinding wheel. This is most often espoused by folks who have no knowledge of steel, chemistry, or physics — the same types who wear belts with suspenders. There is simply no way to get this device’s motor-driven belt system that fast and hot to cause the damage that they fear. That damage can occur with a faster motor-driven grinding wheel, but not with the Work Sharp.

For even more versatility, Work Sharp offers a knife and tool grinding attachment. This replaces the belts and will let you do an expert job on chisel grinds, lawnmower blades, axe blades, and can act as an introduction to grinding a blade from bar stock.

Portable Systems for the Prepared

Every sharpener we have touched on to this point is portable, including the Ken Onion Work Sharp model (it needs power, but it is by no means heavy). They would all require a minor degree of setup to work in the field and are fine for hunters. But if you’re bugging out and don’t have the time or facilities to set up a sharpener, or are tallying every item down to the ounce or cubic-inch, there are a few options beyond the basic whetstones. Here’s a look at a few:

Photo of a knife with a Worksharp knife sharpener.

Guided Field Sharpener: Made by Work Sharp, it’s roughly the weight and dimensions of an unloaded pistol magazine. The guide is a 20-degree angle with coarse and fine diamond abrasive stones. A three directional ceramic rod is located on the spine for coarse or fine work and even has a fishhook setting and a rod for sharpening serrations. The opposing side has a practical leather strop treated with a polishing compound.

Blademedic Knife Sharpener: This Lansky model comes in an even smaller package and can handle serrations with a swing-out diamond hone rod. The tool may not work on large knives or machetes due to the smaller dimensions, but for maintaining pocketknives, fishing knives, or hunting knives, it makes for a very handy piece of kit for your bug-out bag.

Golden Stone: Spyderco’s portable tool makes for a much more portable version of their Tri-Angle sharpening system. This oblong sharpener is made from alumina bonded ceramic covered in micron-sized sapphires and comes in a suede pouch that doubles as a base. Position one of the legs on the base for the proper angle to sharpen one side, and then rock it over to the other leg to sharpen the reverse. Unlike a stone, this one will never wear out and requires no water or honing oil.

Whichever sharpener you choose will require some study and research to get the most out of it in order to be able to properly maintain your knives. Most sporting goods stores and hardware stores have in-house samples to let you try them out before you buy them.

Luckily for the couple in the opening paragraph, we were able to restore the edge on the cheap pocketknife the wife tried to destroy by using a demo unit of one of the very sharpeners mentioned in this article. The knife still looked beat-up, but based on the model, it definitely had a better edge than when it left the factory.

3 Tips From the Master

Ken Onion is a master knife-maker and was kind enough to give us a few tips for the sharpener he developed with Work Sharp:

Slow Your Roll: “I realize it was easy to round the tips with the old Work Sharp. We addressed this with my version. The belts are wider and the variable speed makes it much easier to dial down the speed to where you are comfortable. Start slow and work it up.”

Sponge It Up: “If the dust becomes bothersome, try putting a damp sponge on your table and place it right across the face of the wheel so it just barely touches it, but do not get the belts wet. The sponge will collect the dust.”

Get Attached: “If you are having trouble getting the hang of things or wish to sharpen zero grinds or just want to take your knife sharpening to a whole new level, I recommend getting the knife and tool grinding attachment. I feel it’s much easier to use and does a much more precise job of sharpening. You’re much less likely to scratch the finish of your knife, as you’re not pulling your blade through a guide.”

Sharpening the Emerson Way

emerson-production-chisel-grind

Ernest Emerson helped popularize the chisel-grind edge on folding knives and revolutionized the concept of the tactical knife in the 1990s. As simple and efficient as the grind may be, it still mystifies some users. He was kind enough to share some of his wisdom with us:

Why the Chisel Grind Edge? “When designing a knife for use by SEAL Team Six back in the 1980s, we chose the chisel-grind edge because it is the easiest to sharpen (you only have to sharpen one side of the knife) and it holds its edge for a long time.”

When is it Sharp Enough? “Use whichever device you are most comfortable with and sharpen the primary edge. When you feel a burr with the back of your fingernail off the edge, you have sharpened the front edge enough.”

What About the Back Side? “Turning the knife over, you lightly stroke the flat side just to break the burr free. This only takes a couple of light passes. Incline the sharpener slightly so you don’t scratch the surface of the blade and are only touching the very edge. Next you take the cardboard back of a yellow legal pad and strop the knife back and forth on the cardboard. You have to use some pressure, so be sure that your fingers are clear of the blade if it were to accidentally close. Do this repeatedly for 10 to 20 strokes on each side.”

Strops and Steels

Perhaps the best way to maintain any blade is to strop it on a regular basis. A few passes on a strop or razor strap will keep a keen edge on most blades. For certain blades, it may be the only failsafe method of maintaining the edge, such as on a zero-bevel knife or “Scandi-grind.”

Another touted method is the “Butcher’s Steel.” These steel sharpening rods used to be a standard feature in most kitchen knife blocks, and they do a great job of cleaning blood, gristle, and skin from knives that have been processing meat because they are made from the same steel with the same hardness. For that reason it is not a good idea to “touch up the edge” on your EDC knife with S30V, ATS-34, D2, or any other steel that the Butcher’s Steel was not made for.

Improvised Sharpeners

Using the bottom of a mug as a ceramic knife sharpener.

Sometimes the best plans fail, and maybe you bugged out without a decent sharpener. Abrasive stones found in the wild that are flat will mostly work the same as a sharpening stone. The rough inside of a quality leather belt can function as an effective strop as can denim, cardboard (see the Ernest Emerson sidebar), and most rugged material of a similar nature. Coffee cups, bowls, and other items made of ceramic are sufficiently hard enough to stand in for a field expedient sharpener if necessary. Other abrasives, such as files and sandpaper, can be used as well.

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Two-Wheel Torque

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With one twist of its throttle, the stout Rokon motorcycle can transform from a rubber-burning all-terrain vehicle to a gravity-defying projectile that can down an incoming enemy helicopter, sacrificing its own life to heroically save your entire team from a deadly strafing run. Naturally, this can only be done if you're Sylvester Stallone, your team includes Jason Statham, and the helo is a prop in Expendables 2.

Artistic license aside, its movie-star turn serves to illustrate what its loyalists have believed for nearly 50 years: the Rokon is not only America's best kept secret weapon, but also the ultimate transporter that can practically roll on, over, and through almost everything.

The modern-day Rokon stakes its claim as the second-oldest U.S. motorcycle in constant production. Remaining true to its heritage, today's Rokon closely resembles the simple schematics that inventor Charles Henry Fehn first submitted with his patent applications in 1958 when he called it the Trail-Breaker. The patent was granted in 1966, and even today's models are instantly recognizable as offshoots of the original version, what with the MIG-welded steel frames and tractor-like 8x12x25 Titan tire treads over hollow aluminum drum wheels. In fact, the sealable drum wheels hold 2.6 gallons each of water or fuel, so you could almost triple the amount of fuel available on board from the standard 2.69-gallon fuel tank. Its four-stroke, fan-cooled 7hp Kohler 208cc engine is mated to a three-speed automatic torque-converter transmission.

With a burn rate of 1/4 gallon per hour, and with a running speed of, say, 30 mph, your bug-out-route range will approach 330 miles on one 2.69-gallon tank before you tap into the wheel reservoirs for two additional fill-ups for a total range of over 900 miles. And if things get to Mad Max: Fury Roadlevels of desperation, you can always sling another tank on the back.

And, OK, the Rokon does not fly. But when each wheel drum is left empty, the 218-pound Rokon may be laid on its side and floated across open water, carburetor up. “What good is a floating bike?” you might ask. What if your bug-out route brings you to a deep creek or river and a roadblock is set up at the only bridge crossing for 200 miles? Try wading chest deep with your dual-sport bike or ATV.

A pair of Rokons relied upon by the U.S. Forest Service to hit the trails inaccessible to ATVs and quads.

A pair of Rokons relied upon by the U.S. Forest Service to hit the trails inaccessible to ATVs and quads.

“Rock and Row”

From his 1915 birth in San Bernardino to his passing in 1972, Fehn lived in Southern California with a penchant for invention and seeking investors, demo-ing the Trail-Breaker in steep sand dunes or by driving over the dropped tailgate and into the bed of his El Camino. Through development of an innovative clutch, front and rear chain-driven wheels, and gearing system, Fehn's ideas enabled the rider to maneuver in tight turns without grounding — a system that has since undergone considerable refinement.

Early bikes were sold in kit form or from various distributors, the most successful being Orla Larsen. Larsen named his distributorship company Rokon, after his Vermont ski lodge that he called “On The Rocks.” While some die-hards still pronounce the motorcycle name “Rock-on,” the universal pronunciation is “Row-con.”

Today the company is enjoying a resurgence as Rokon International, Inc., based in Rochester, New Hampshire, with 29 dealers in the U.S. and eight overseas. Factory-direct custom order sales are strong with Rokons arriving at dealers and doorsteps around the country, said President Tom Blais.

If the Internet's latest “ultimate” bug-out jeep, truck, or tank is beyond your financial reach or free space in your garage, consider adding a Rokon as your bug-out vehicle. For those who have the scratch, it could also serve as a secondary ride mounted on your truck bed or on a trailer hitch. It's available in street legal or strictly off-road versions and is highly customizable from dealer options. Dual-sport bikes fit the higher speed, on-road/on-trail route scenario very well (see RECOIL Issue 10, and OFFGRID Issue 7 or turn to “(No) Easy Rider, our feature on motorbike techniques, elsewhere in this issue). Still, when SHTF, Rokon riders say the low and stable two-wheel-drive difference is unbelievable if you have to leave the urban landscape and go beyond established trails, all the while towing a trailer or dragging big-game behind you.

In-The-Dirt Testing

rokon

In a series of real-world tests, we were able to validate the Rokon's billy-goat-meets-Big-Foot qualities by joining a small group of hardcore riders on a 200-mile journey deep within the Ocala National Forest. There the U.S. Forest Service Rangers receive training on the usage of the Rokon for taking chainsaws and other gear deep within trails that are too narrow for ATVs. Rangers favor the low-pressure Rokon tires (3.5 pounds psi) and spark arrestor mufflers in the deep sugar sand, inclines, and muddy crossings. The tubeless tires are said to leave less pressure than a human footprint, passing easily between narrow trees on handlebar-width trails. The bikes also can perform search-and-recovery efforts, even towing out other vehicles with a ball hitch if needed.

“These Rokons are not about speed,” said one of the riders, a retired U.S. Army brigadier general who once demo'd the Rokons for the Pentagon. “These are about torque. These are about getting from Point A to Point B when there is little or no path before you and you must absolutely arrive. They are unstoppable. They will go where a dirt bike, quad, or ATV will not pass.”

Rokons feel very different from traditional dirt and street bikes or ATVs and require a shift in thinking. All Rokon controls are accomplished by the hands. The unsprung, folding front or rear foot pegs serve only to support the rider and passenger's sturdy boots while riding, allowing the riders to place one or both feet on the ground to steady the bike on slow maneuvers and obstacles.

The tractor-like tires and high (14-inch) ground clearance allowed seesaw, teeter-totter log crossings by shifting weight fore and aft. Compared to high-riding dirt bikes, the Rokon's low-seat position inspired confidence while traversing slopes.

Although one novice rider laid his bike down about three times in deep shifting sands, the rider was never thrown and was faulted more than the bike. These were not bunny slopes, and the fact that a beginner could negotiate these hills is a tribute to the bike's low center of gravity and pure torque.

Orientation commences with powerful front and rear hydraulic disc brake levers, with the left hand braking the rear and the throttle hand controlling the front. Both brakes are mounted high to keep them free from mud and water. The left hand also controls a black engine emergency “kill” button that shuts off the engine if the bike goes down, plus headlight switch. Above all, we insist on opting for the “Brush Buster” optional handguards to protect the grips and hands from impacts with trees, rocks, or any other obstacles.

Getting Hands On

On the lower right-hand side, fuel management is controlled by the fuel tank shutoff valve, for storing or transporting the Rokon. Close by and beneath the choke, an engine fuel valve is opened for riding and closed for storing the motorcycle. The fuel tank cap air valve may be closed to air intake in the event the Rokon is floated sideways — during our test, this was followed by an immediate and sure start. Some early model bikes attending were equipped with snorkels for exceeding the recommended maximum operating depth of 24 inches.

With the engine in neutral, and using the three-position (anti-theft) ignition key switched to on, the Rokon is started either from a steady pull on the right-side starter rope or from an optional key electrical starter.

Testing the Rokon's flotation at lakeside. With carb side up, the Rokon creates a splash, but comes up and starts.

Testing the Rokon's flotation at lakeside. With carb side up, the Rokon creates a splash, but comes up and starts.

What sets the Rokon apart from other motorcycles is the sealed three-range transmission that appears as a straight shaft inline horizontal plunger on the lower right side of the bike, with a black ball end. Shifting is not done on the move, but from a dead stop and only then at idle speed or when the engine is off. Grasping the plunger ball and pulling outward all the way brings the bike into first gear. If needed, gently rock the bike until the gears synch. The shift pattern from the inside to the outside is as follows: third, neutral, second, neutral, first. There's no reverse. To turn the bike in tight quarters, it may be pivoted 180 degrees on its kickstand.

The Rokon may be started in gear, with one hand lightly on the brake lever and without revving the engine. From any gear, the Rokon may be run from a dead standstill to the top speed range of its gear. When coupled with the automatic torque converter, it has extremely broad capabilities from steep grade climbing to routine routes. The torque converter provides a large overlap of speed and torque between gears, making frequent gear changes unnecessary and eliminating the need to shift on the move. In the event a dangerous encounter occurs, the Rokon may be brought to an abrupt stop, still in gear at idle speed, and hands switched to sidearm or long-gun without downshifting or going to neutral. Even in third, one twist of the throttle later, and you are gone.

Auto-Grab suspension has 8 inches of travel, and the aluminum wheel holds 2.6 gallons of water or fuel.

Auto-Grab suspension has 8 inches of travel, and the aluminum wheel holds 2.6 gallons of water or fuel.

The torque converter is designed especially for Rokon and provides smooth automatic clutching and ratio changing in response to throttle control and terrain requirements, all without loss of engine revs or power, as the front and rear-driven pulleys transfer power through the gears to the front or rear chain drives.

We crawled and drove up tree trunks and ditches in first, floated through sand in second, and hauled down logging roads in third, although some expert riders never left third and managed the responsive throttle beautifully.

With the front wheel chain guards removed, proper chain tensioning and lubrication is accomplished with simple wrenches.

With the front wheel chain guards removed, proper chain tensioning and lubrication is accomplished with simple wrenches.

For many years, riders had only an adjustable seat spring for one or two riders and low-pressure tires to absorb vibrations while covering terrain. More recently Rokon offers a new Auto-Grab front suspension, allowing for 8 inches of shock travel via a swing-arm pivoted at the bottom of the front fork. In order to maintain proper chain tension as the suspension moves, a second chain was added up front on a dual idler sprocket, adding a slight amount of weight and improving traction. Rokon's Geoff Richardson said the front spring was developed at the insistence of the Jordanian military for ease of negotiating asphalt that's pockmarked with mortar rounds. Jordan now imports its own Rokons and assembles them in a plant, where the King of Jordan maintains a Rokon museum.

Maintenance on most items is accomplished with a simple set of wrenches and lube, with many parts available from local hardware stores. Checking for front and rear chain tension and lubrication is standard operating procedure.

Front suspension soaks up the drop

Front suspension soaks up the drop

Kit Up

A cult-like following of Rokon rebuilders is constantly searching for Rokons to restore and to rally with in remote locations the nation over, while squeezing out an additional 5 to 10 mph. During our ride, accessories were basic, ranging from tomahawks and handheld GPS units to ammo cans that went unopened. To equip and customize a modern Rokon, the company makes it simple for new owners by providing an itemized accessory menu, with a rumored Prepper Edition in all black arriving some day.

Meanwhile, for bugging out and keeping a low profile, we highly recommend accessories, including:

– Trail Maintenance Kit, (fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and wrench, two connecting chain links, two half links and chain, chain breaker, low-pressure gauge, pump, tubeless repair kit, and drive belt in leather pouch
– Camouflage Upgrade
– Carrier ramp plus ratchet straps to secure Rokon to trailer hitch or truck
– Gun boot, saddle style; keeps the width of the bike down and is safer than carrying a rifle across the handlebars on narrow, wooded trails.
– Tow bar kit chain, trailer hitch, and hard bar
– Brush Busters (handguards)
– Tachometer/hour meter
– Game Carrier, which replaces the rear seat to transport backpacks, cargo, rigging saddle bags, and large objects
– Single Track Trailer, a long linear carrier that increases carrying capacity
– GPS/cell phone holders
– Fuel siphon pump
– Waterproof 12-volt plug for recharging cellular phones, lap tops, and powering low-pressure air pump for tires
– Tactical carry system (two ammo cans) on saddle bag position
– Stihl chainsaw, machete, axe, rope, spare fuel, trail maps, tent, pack

The Rokon Trail-Breaker has come a long way from its origins in 1958, one year after some young Americans first carried the M-14 into Vietnam. Just as a new generation of fighters has rediscovered the worth and staying power of the old battle rifle, so too are new generations of “urban bug-out planners” realizing the potential of the Rokon ride.

Our deep wilderness ride ended with one broken mirror, but we're not courting bad luck. As this author tells his firearms students, “Leave luck to the unprepared.” Rock on, Rokon.

Offgrid Tip

Company president Tom Blais pounded the Chilean Andes with his. The U.S. Special Forces covered sands with it in Desert Storm. And U.S. Border Patrol agents use theirs to pursue narrow foot paths. Rokon motorcycles are relied upon by the military and law enforcement agencies all over the world, from Fort Bragg to Brunei.

So, we were thrilled at the chance to join the ranks of those who've tested these all-terrain vehicles. Here are some lessons learned from a recent hardcore training session:

– Starting in neutral is best.
– Carry maps, a GPS unit or two, plus plenty of fuel in reserve.
– Keep a few basic tools with you to tighten up any loose fittings, and always keep your chain properly tensioned and lubricated.
– Practice your bug-out skills by creeping through the woods or your given landscape, walking the bike if necessary. Work less on speed and more on negotiating obstacles.
– If you're unable to avoid traveling on or across roads, keep your head on a swivel, scanning and assessing 360 degrees when traveling and stopping, watching first from the woods and listening before crossing.

Rokon Lineup

Rokon offers three similar models with slight variations in color, available suspension, wheel, and motor-gearing options. Each model is available with 50 factory accessories, from a one-bolt add-on sidecar to a 2,000-watt generator.
Rokon

rokon-trail-breaker

Trail-Breaker
The flagship bike is the complete package with Auto-Grab front wheel suspension, 12-inch aluminum drums, and the high-output 208cc 7hp Kohler engine.
Drive System Full-time all-wheel drive
Engine 7hp Kohler, one-cylinder, four-stroke
Piston Displacement 208cc Kohler
Power Transmission Auto torque converter into a three-gear range selector
Fuel Tank 2.69 gallon
Grade Capability 60-percent
Wheels 12-inch aluminum sealed drum
Tires 8x12x25 tubeless
Wheelbase 51 inches
Ground Clearance 14 inches
Height Over Seat 32 inches
Height Over Handlebars 41 inches
Width 30 inches
Length 79 inches
Weight 218 pounds (dry weight)
Fordable Water Depth 24 inches
Base Price $7,350

rokon-ranger

Ranger
The middle-of-the-pack model, appealing to those wanting the 160cc 5hp Honda engine and solid non-drum heavy-spoke wheels.
Drive System Full-time all-wheel drive
Engine 5hp Honda, one-cylinder, four-stroke
Piston Displacement 160cc Honda
Power Transmission Auto torque converter into a three-gear range selector
Fuel Tank 2.69 gallon
Grade Capability 60-percent
Wheels 12-inch steel spoke
Tires 8x12x25 tubeless
Wheelbase 51 inches
Ground Clearance 14 inches
Height Over Seat 32 inches
Height Over Handlebars 41 inches
Width 30 inches
Length 79 inches
Weight 218 pounds (dry weight)
Fordable Water Depth 24 inches
Base Price $6,975

rokon-scout

Scout
Basically the same as the Trail-Breaker, only without the drum wheels and the front suspension for a lighter or more traditional feel.
Drive System Full-time all-wheel drive
Engine 7hp Kohler, one-cylinder, four-stroke
Piston Displacement 208cc Kohler
Power Transmission Auto torque converter into a three-gear range selector
Fuel Tank 2.69 gallon
Grade Capability 60-percent
Wheels 12-inch steel spoke
Tires 8x12x25 tubeless
Wheelbase 51 inches
Ground Clearance 14 inches
Height Over Seat 31 inches
Height Over Handlebars 41 inches
Width 30 inches
Length 79 inches
Weight 218 pounds (dry weight)
Fordable Water Depth
24 inches
Base Price $6,500

Rokon
www.rokon.com

Giving the Ruger 10/22 Takedown a Survival Makeover

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While prepping for when the “Fit Hits the Shan,” the conversation will inevitably turn to proper firearms for hunting and self-defense. But be careful where you elicit advice from. Gun shop “experts” will tell you how useless a shotgun is and how you need a .338 Lapua to take out threats from a mile away. Meanwhile, Internet commandos will espouse the need for a double-stack 10mm pistol to deal with grizzly bears in downtown Cleveland. And tactical mall ninjas will suggest affixing as many lights, lasers, blades, and Tasers to your AR-15 for when the zombie outbreak hits.

Most will dismiss what is probably one of the more useful firearms to have in a crisis situation: a reliable, lightweight semiautomatic rifle that can be suppressed. For these characteristics and a few more, we looked to Ruger’s 10/22 Takedown to see if it was the answer to our survival-firearm question.

For reliability, accuracy, and a plethora of aftermarket accessories, no other manufacturer can beat the 10/22 in the .22-caliber realm. With more than 5 million units sold, it’s a proven performer that takes its lines from the M1 Carbine and has the distinction of being the first modern rimfire rifle designed specifically for adults as opposed to being a youth training firearm. The Takedown models have been out for nearly three years, and while definitely not the only 10/22 in the safe, this one makes for the best we could find in a SHTF rimfire carbine.

Of course, this being an OFFGRID story, we didn’t just buy a 10/22 Takedown and leave it, well, alone. As our loyal readers know, it’s best to personalize all our survival tools and supplies based on you and your family’s needs, your home and general region, and the types of calamities you might encounter. So read on to find out how we made this .22 LR firearm SHTF ready.

Survival Makeover

The Stock

There isn’t a whole lot to the 10/22’s synthetic factory stock, and this Takedown version is no exception, apart from where it is cut into two sections. The aftermarket options are a little sparse at the moment, but this should change in time.

We made two basic modifications besides ditching the flash suppressor: removal of the barrel band and the addition of a single-point sling.

Removing the barrel band is a holdover from the days of using non-takedown 10/22s. All they really added was more of the look of an M1 Carbine. There are versions now that allow the shooter to add a Picatinny rail or a laser, but as an old-school rifle shooter, this author came of age when you didn’t want anything touching your barrel that would affect harmonics and performance. It’s moot on the Takedown, as the fore-end itself is attached to the barrel, but if anything on a firearm serves no real purpose, we prefer to remove it.

The single-point sling was tricky, as the lightweight stock didn’t seem to be a good candidate for installing sling swivel studs; a two-point sling on a takedown rifle seemed impractical. We used the Single-Point Sling Adapter by BLACKHAWK! to give a mounting point for a DeSantis Outback Bungee Sling.

This is one of the better single-point slings we have come across and we chose this design because it is longer than most, and the extra material can be used to jury-rig a two-point sling by wrapping it around the barrel. It stays put and can be undone in a matter of seconds when used in this manner.

The Coating

ruger-10-22-lr-strap

At this point we had a blued receiver, a bare metal scope mount, an aluminum ring, and a Realtree buttstock. It was effective, but not the classiest-looking setup. And the author’s forays into the Sierra Nevada Mountains and the wilds of Alaska sparked doubts about whether a stainless version would have been a better choice to resist the elements.

We contacted Russ Bacon and Nevada Cerakote (a division of High Desert Guns in Gardnerville, Nevada) for a custom Cerakote job. We went with the tried-and-true “High Desert Web” pattern that incorporates the green, browns, and tans of our local and immediate bug-out area. This was a major improvement over the blued steel of the barrel and receiver, bare aluminum of the scope rail and barrel lock, and, of course, the Elmer Fudd-ish Realtree camo that the stock was originally colored in, by way of a hot dip.

The Optics

If this platform has one shortcoming, it’s the sights. Iron sights are great, and by and large that is how this author performs 90 percent of his own shooting, including with a long-gun. However, for this particular rifle to work as we envisioned it, we wanted something more accurate than Ruger’s factory irons, and going with the Tactical Solutions barrel meant giving up the sights completely.

The dilemma with optics and takedown rifles is that it will cause a shift in zero every time the firearms are taken apart and reassembled. One solution would be a cantilever type of mount on the barrel, but until that becomes an option for the Takedown, we decided on a rugged red-dot sight mounted farther back on the scope mount. We chose the Lucid M7, a solid little workhorse.

The Barrel

We purchased the version you see in these pages not so much for the Realtree camouflage pattern, but for the threaded barrel. Unfortunately, the factory 16.25-inch barrel turns into a 22-incher with an attached suppressor. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but when being compact is the order of the day, we wanted something shorter.

Enter Tactical Solutions, one of the companies that’s reinvented the Ruger 10/22. The Idaho-based company supplied us with an SB-X barrel that is made specifically for the Ruger 10/22 Takedown. Tactical Solutions builds a lightweight 12.5-inch barrel with a permanently attached ventilated shroud that brings the barrel length back to 16.25 inches. The shroud allows the installation of most rimfire suppressors and can be used with the included dummy suppressor or fired without it. Some velocity is lost with this setup due to the shorter length, but it does make the rifle quieter with the suppressor.

Our only real complaint with the factory barrel was the inclusion of an AR-15-style flash suppressor that serves no purpose beyond looks. Like being on a bad date, we ditched it as soon as we could, replacing it with a Gemtech ½x28 thread protector. The only shortcoming to the Tactical Solutions SB-X barrel is that you’ll have to kiss goodbye to your iron sights. (We’ll get to the workaround later in this story.)

ruger-10-22-lr-barrel

The Suppressor

In the world of NFA (National Firearms Act, which defines various categories of firearms and devices, including suppressors), there are a number of choices for a .22-caliber rimfire can. We went with the Gemtech Outback IID. This rugged little suppressor is dependable, user-serviceable, and quiet enough for our purposes. The price is very competitive, and Gemtech is currently offering an upgrade to the older models that makes it easier to clean and maintain while having a mono core.

ruger-10-22-lr-side-profile

But it’s Still a .22?
We’re sure the thought has crossed your mind as you read this story: Isn’t a .22-caliber gun just a peashooter? True enough, the .22 LR is not a service-rifle caliber. The round is a laughable choice for a self-defense handgun and not at all recommended by tactical trainers. But, we’re not talking about handgun performance here. We’re looking specifically at a rifle. The following is a closer examination of why the 10/22 Takedown could very well be your go-to survival firearm.

Ballistics

One of the many myths about suppressors is that they slow down the speed of the bullet and therefore make ammunition less effective. This may be old “gun shop wisdom” parroted on the Internet forums. In all our years of shooting handguns and rifles with suppressors, we have never noticed it and can still ring steel and knock down bowling pins with the best of them.

We put this myth to the test by rolling out our F1 Chrony with the Ruger 10/22 Takedown at the range. Using Remington Subsonic 38-grain hollow points and the 16-inch barrel, we averaged between 909 and 962 feet per second (fps) without the can. Screwing on the Outback IID, we averaged between 905 and 953 fps. The same ammunition with the shorter Tactical Solutions barrel resulted in 819 to 834 fps without the suppressor and 810 to 825 with it. This actually means the shorter barrel makes the rifle quieter as those extra few inches taken away means that the rifling will not push the bullet toward supersonic levels.

When shot with Federal Premium Target loads with a 40-grain bullet, we averaged 1,053 to 1,072 fps on the factory barrel without the can, 1,050 to 1,060 with it, and 880 to 900 with the Tactical Solutions barrel and no suppressor. Adding the suppressor to the Tactical Solutions barrel with the Federal Premium gave us an average of 871 to 887 fps.

The velocity loss is somewhere between 5 and 15 fps when using the Outback IID. It’s certainly nothing we want to be shot with.

ruger-10-22-lr-chart

Self-Defense

Yes, you read that correctly. Self-defense. The .22 LR may not be the round of choice for a defensive handgun, but when chambered in a reliable rifle like the Ruger 10/22 Takedown, it’s positively deadly against two-legged predators. Just reread the aforementioned ballistics stats. One reason is the increased velocity when fired from a longer barrel and the increased accuracy from using modern optics coupled with no recoil. Also, if called into action, the 10/22 Takedown is light enough to be shot accurately with one hand — a huge plus if you’re carrying your child, protecting your spouse, or hauling vital life-saving medicine or supplies.

Pest Control

Disasters often have secondary consequences. Earthquakes, gas leaks, fire, or floods that devastate or otherwise evacuate structures not only drive out people, but send the vermin looking for other shelter and food sources, too. Whether it’s a plague of rats, feral dogs, possums, or other nuisance wildlife, the .22 LR excels at reducing their numbers humanely and quietly. Plus, it lets you save your larger caliber — 9mm, 12-gauge, .308, etc. — for more dangerous creatures.

Hunting

In most parts of the USA, hunting big game with a rimfire round is outlawed. This is partially based on the notion that the .22 LR lacks power to make a humane kill, but also because a “miss” is subject to over-travel and can easily hit and injure another person a great distance away.

The fact remains that the .22 LR is effective on large game when the shot is placed properly. Poachers have effectively used this round for decades, and most farmers take down their cows for butchering with a single .22 shot to the head. Unless you’re hand cycling .22 CB Caps or .22 Shorts, don’t underestimate the power of this little cartridge. In all reality, a true SHTF scenario could decimate the entire local deer population within a year. Stockpiled .223, .308, and other full-sized rifle calibers will be overkill for the smaller animals that are left, such as squirrels, raccoons, foxes, marmots, groundhogs, and muskrats, etc.

Portability

This is another benefit of the 10/22 Takedown model. In a true TEOTWAWKI situation when you may find yourself having to elude a larger armed group, this smaller rifle will give you that ability to escape and evade. Always remember legendary lawman Wyatt Earp’s famous answer with regard to surviving a gunfight: “Don’t show up for it.” That little rifle broken down in its compact pack will be much less obvious from a distance than a black rifle slung over your shoulder or inside a long gun case. Furthermore, because the .22 LR is so much smaller than, say, 5.56mm, you can pack and carry a lot more rounds than you would if you were running with an AR-15.

Price

While a basic AR-15 rifle can easily cost you more than a grand, a stock 10/22 Takedown can be found for less than a handgun. The MSRP is $409, but street prices are much cheaper. And unlike .50 BMG or .338 Lapua rounds, the Takedown’s .22 LR ammo is quite affordable and generally more readily available. Yes, we’re well aware of the current ammo shortfalls in some areas of the country, but this, too, shall pass. When a disaster strikes, it’ll be reassuring to know that your chosen caliber will be commonplace to purchase or scavenge.

Conclusion

When preparing for worst-case scenarios, realism is the name of the game. Forget the fanboy fantasies of zombies, cannibals, jack-booted thugs in blue helmets, or a Sharknado-like phenomenon. The reality is that a well-made .22-caliber rifle such as the Ruger 10/22 Takedown model will cover many of the real-world situations that a prepper might come up against in either a SHTF incident or simply living off the grid for an extended period of time. Be armed with both the tool and the knowledge to survive and thrive.

Ruger 10/22 Takedown Specifications

Caliber: .22LR
Overall Length: 34.5 inches (20 inches broken down)
Magazine Capacity: 10 or 25 rounds
Weight (Unloaded): 4.75 pounds
MSRP: $409
URL: www.ruger.com

Accessories
Barrel: Tactical Solutions SB-X $295 – www.tacticalsol.com
Suppressor: Gemtech Outback IID $325 – www.gem-tech.com
Optic: Lucid M7 $229 – www.mylucidgear.com
Sling Adapter: BLACKHAWK! Single-Point Sling Adapter $7 – www.blackhawk.com
Sling: DeSantis Outback Bungee Sling $56 – www.desantisholster.com
Coating: “High Desert Web” Cerakote $350 –www.nevadacerakote.com

Headlamp Faceoff

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We're ashamed to admit that we used to snicker at the sight of a headlamp. We'd see joggers wearing them while hitting the pavement and say snide things under our breath like, “Heigh-ho, heigh-ho, it's off to work we go.” But when we got old enough to turn wrenches in the garage, we realized head-mounted lights weren't just for miners.

In fact, headlamps aren't just for recreational activities, but are essential for emergencies. Picture an earthquake that topples your apartment complex, and you have to dig through crumbled walls to find your missing daughter. Imagine a chemical spill spews toxic fumes for miles, forcing you to bug out far away from city lights. Or perhaps you're in the less dramatic, but more likely, scenario of having to fix a flat tire after sundown — it's pretty hard to unscrew lug nuts with a flashlight in one hand.

So, in this edition of Hands On, we're pitting two moderately priced models head to head (pun completely intended): The Coast Products HL27 and the Fenix HP12.

Coast Products HL27

headlamp-face-off-coast-products-hl27

Make & Model: Coast Products HL27
Max. Runtime: 330 lumens
Max. Runtime: 8 hour, 45 minutes
Weight: 6.8 ounces (including batteries)
MSRP: $75
URL: www.coastportland.com

Fenix HP12

headlamp-face-off-fenix-hp12

Make & Model: Fenix HP12
Max. Runtime: 900 lumens
Max. Runtime: 145 hours
Weight: 5.9 ounces (including batteries)
MSRP: $65
URL: www.fenixlight.com

Illumination

On paper, it might seem like Fenix's LED outshines Coast's. Its max output of 400 lumens edges out the Coast's 330 lumens. Plus, with a maximum output of 900 lumens in the 30-second burst mode, the Fenix offers a retina-searing amount of light with an impressive throw of 124 meters (a little longer than a football field). Many light snobs will love the ability to wield almost 1,000 lumens…but when is a lot just too much? It depends on your application.

We tested both models in various situations: indoors, performing car maintenance and practicing household emergency drills; outdoors, hiking in low light and using the lights while practicing our survival skills on a camping trip. Like giddy Boy Scouts, we found that the Fenix's 900-lumen burst mode was fun to play with while outdoors, but it wasn't really necessary. In the woods, our immediate survival concerns at night never extended beyond 40 meters at any given moment, and indoors the burst mode was more a detriment than an asset, as it often caused light to bounce off walls and nearby objects into our eyes. We suspect that, unless you're in an outdoor search-and-rescue situation (either signaling to be rescued or searching as a rescuer) or your job puts you in a vast and unlit workspace, the burst mode won't be vital to your general operations.

Rest assured the Coast's 330 lumens come close enough to Fenix's 400-lumen output for all practical purposes. Both provide superior illumination at night and offer different levels of brightness. The Fenix HP12 can also emit 150 lumens on mid mode, 50 on low, and 10 on eco. Meanwhile, the HL27 doesn't have different modes, but rather features Coast's Light Output Control Wheel, which you twist like a dimmer dial to get the exact brightness you want.

Functionality

While the Fenix might have the Coast beat in the maximum brightness category, the Coast is much more intuitive to use. Coast's Light Output Control Wheel is pure genius. Just spin it counterclockwise to get a dim light then rotate it clockwise for gradual brightness or all the way for full blast. Located at the top of the lamp just behind the on/off switch, the wheel is easy to find by feel, responsive to the touch, and a simple yet brilliant solution to the Goldilocks problem of needing a brightness level that's not offered by the preset modes.

Meanwhile, the Fenix has a push-button switch that's easy to find on the side of the lamp. To access each mode, just push the switch. However, because it has multiple modes, you'll have to push it four times to get to high mode. While not a big deal if you're on a casual hike, it could be tough to find the right mode under any sort of stress. On more than one occasion, we found ourselves hammering on the switch, running through the modes and initiating a manual strobe of sorts as we tried to find the right brightness. In a desperate doomsday scenario, we can foresee potential problems with this, such as accidentally signaling your location to strangers when you were just trying to shut it off.

To turn the Fenix on or off, simply hold the button down for a moment. Just don't hold it down for too long or you'll kick on the blinding burst mode.

The Coast's on/off switch is an ergonomic button just above the light that's a cinch to operate. Another highlight for the HL27 is its twist focusing ring on the lamp that lets you adjust the beam from flood to spot, just by rotating the ring. When turned to spot beam, the Coast lamp can shine up to 129 meters, slightly more than the Fenix. This makes the HL27 exceptionally versatile.

The HL27's lamp also has a hinge, so you can shine the light downward in various positions rather than having to bend your neck to illuminate what's at your feet. Likewise, the Fenix HP12 can pivot downward, but has the added advantage of also turning upward. Shining your lamp skyward wouldn't make sense in the backcountry, but indoors this can reflect light off ceilings and provide greater overall illumination in a confined space.

Comfort and Durability

With its mostly plastic construction, Coast's HL27 doesn't look particularly rugged — but it held up admirably during our testing period. Of course, we didn't go spelunking or attempt to summit K2, but we didn't baby it, either. Backed by a lifetime warranty against defects in materials and workmanship, the HL27 is impact and water resistant.

On our heads, it felt comfortable thanks to adjustable elastic straps. Plus, the two main contact points are made of flexible synthetic rubber. Oh, and the cord that connects the battery pack to the LED is integrated into the headband to prevent snagging.

On the flipside, the Fenix's power cord hangs outside of its elastic headband. While we didn't get caught up in the cord during use, we can see how much better the Coast's integrated cord is at avoiding snags (and any resulting damage).

Fortunately, the Fenix is quite durable — and certainly looks like it. Made of aluminum alloy and stainless steel, the headlamp and its battery housing have a hard-anodized finish to fend off abrasions. Even the lens is made of tough glass with an anti-reflective coating. These features allow the HP12 to be shockproof and waterproof up to 2 meters — and even freeze-proof from -40 degrees.

Though only long-term testing will truly determine how long the headlamps last, it's a safe bet that both should perform diligently for years to come.

Conclusion

If backed into a corner and forced to pick just one, we might bypass the Fenix HP12's superior illumination capabilities and give the slight edge to the Coast HL27 because of its versatility and ease of use. Not only does its Light Output Control Wheel provide precious brightness levels quickly and easily, it's powered by three AA batteries, which are far more common than the two CR123 batteries that the Fenix feeds on.

However, there's no loser in this headlamp faceoff. Both models performed admirably in the field and are solidly constructed with quality parts. Either one would be worthy additions to any prepper's go-bag. With stellar performance and quality construction, both of these headlamps will cut through darkness; whether you're in the woods or on the trail … or in a mine filled with singing dwarves.

OFFGRID 411: U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics on Planes, Trains, Boats, and Automobiles

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We all dread being involved in some sort of crash. While mainstream media often dwells on the worst situations and gives many the impression that a certain method of transportation is more unsafe than another, have you ever stopped and looked at the U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics? What really is the safest way to travel?

To show you what your “odds” are relating to the U.S. transportation system, we compiled statistics involving travel by air, by rail, by boat, and by highway for the first year of five different decades to see how these measurements stack up against each other.

These numbers reflect quite a few variables, but at least you get an overall sense of the level of danger involving these transportation modes. Aside from a few upticks, there is an unexpected downward trend in the overall injuries and fatalities involving these various methods of transportation. While this may be due to improvements in technology, regulations, and public awareness, among many other things, we were surprised to see this decrease given the likely ever-growing amounts of vehicles and owners.

Understanding U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics

The U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics reveal a complex picture of travel safety across different modes of transportation. The unexpected downward trend in injuries and fatalities is a positive sign, but it's essential to continue monitoring these numbers and understanding the underlying factors.

Whether you're a frequent traveler or just curious about the safest way to travel in the U.S., OFFGRID 411 provides the insights you need. Stay tuned for more in-depth analyses and travel safety tips, and always make informed decisions based on the latest U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics.

U.S. Transportation Safety Statistics

transportaion-injuries

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Optimizing Movement for Survival: A Comprehensive Guide

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Disclaimer: The exercises and content about optimizing movement for survival shared in this article are for illustrative purposes. Always consult a medical professional before attempting any physical activity or adopting a nutritional plan.

Movement is the essence of life. Top fitness experts emphasize the significance of optimal movement for a healthy, long life. Yet, many of us, due to sedentary lifestyles, overlook its importance. This guide aims to reintroduce the importance of movement, especially in survival situations, and offers tests and strategies to optimize it.

From infancy, movement plays a pivotal role in our development. However, modern lifestyles, characterized by prolonged sitting and minimal physical activity, have diminished our natural movement patterns. This not only affects our health but also our ability to respond effectively in life-threatening situations

Any physical fitness expert worth a dime will tell you that the ability to move well and be active are key components to a long and healthy life. As babies, we develop through movement. At some point in our lives, however, most people lose sight of that. Maybe it's a result of our stuck-in-a-cubicle jobs and sedentary lifestyles. Sitting at a desk all day followed by lying in front of the TV all night just makes things worse.

What we need to discuss are some ways to test how well you move. Even better, we need ways to fix the issues that arise to prevent unnecessary injuries when you're in a life-and-death situation — like evading roaming bandits.

So, how do you know if you're moving well?

It can't be overstated that staying healthy is key to survival. That doesn't just refer to being disease-free — that also means keeping your body structurally healthy. Today, when all is well in the world, you could easily visit the doctor if your back hurts or your joints flare up. But what if tomorrow there's a massive wildfire that obliterates your community and forces you to bug out on foot through miles of woodlands? Suddenly, a quick trip to the knee specialist doesn't seem so likely.

Self-assessment and care are crucial. A hamstring pull will slow down your entire survival group, which will make traveling much more costly, possibly turning a short hike into a death march. Lengthy travel means more supplies, more time, and more terrain challenges. Plus, how will everyone feel when you're slowing them down? Things may get heated, and anger certainly clouds judgment and causes in-fighting. Morale can plummet from this as well. Everything will seem a lot bleaker once injuries start popping up and travel becomes more grueling.

To make sure you don't fall victim to a preventable injury, let's take a look at five movements that will determine how likely you are to end up broken. They'll test how well you move — and, if need be, we'll outline a corrective strategy to fix you before you get wrecked.

The Toe Touch

Seems pretty basic, right? If you can't touch your toes, you're at risk for some pretty rough back issues. You need mobility in your hips, and if there's not enough, you'll get that extra motion through your lower back. So, let's take a look at your toe touch, and if need be, correct it.

Test: Stand with your feet together. Keeping your knees slightly bent, touch your toes. If you didn't reach your toes, we'll go through a simple progression to fix it.
Progression 1: Toes-Elevated Toe Touch. Stand with your toes elevated on a 2- to 3-inch surface, feet together, and a rolled up towel between your knees. Reach toward the sky, then bend forward.  Once you reach the bottom position, crush the towel between your knees. Complete two sets of 10 repetitions. Once you can reach your toes comfortably with your toes elevated, we'll move on to the next progression.
Progression 2: Heels-Elevated Toe Touch. Repeat the same three steps described previously, only elevate your heels this time. Complete two sets of 10 repetitions.

The Seated Trunk Twist

Slouching forward at your desk or while watching TV keeps you in a chronically slumped position. Over time, this causes you to lose motion in the mobile part of your spine. Since your shoulder blades sit on your ribcage, which is attached to your spine, is it any wonder that this posture yields lack of mobility, and, over time, can cause pain? A simple self-assessment is the seated trunk twist.

Test: Sit Indian-style facing a doorframe with your arms crossed, while holding a dowel on the front of your shoulders. Keeping your torso tall, rotate as far as you can while keeping the dowel on your shoulders. If you can't tap the dowel to the doorframe while rotating in both directions, you're going to need some help fixing that. Luckily, this progression will do just the trick.

Progression 1: Rib Roll. Begin lying on your right side, with your top knee bent at 90 degrees and your bottom leg straight. Prop your top knee on something 4 to 6 inches high, such as a small ball. Grab your top knee with your right arm and the right side of your ribs with your left arm. Breathe in through your nose, thinking about expanding from your stomach. As you exhale through your mouth, push your left knee into the object, and drop your left shoulder toward the floor while gently pulling your ribs as you rotate. Complete two sets of six to eight repetitions on each side. Do twice the amount of sets on the weak side if an asymmetry is found.

Progression 2: Side-Lying Windmill. Once you've completed the first progression, and movement is nearly symmetrical on each side, we'll move to a more challenging position. Begin in the same position as described in progression 1, but with your hands held together out in front of you. Breathe in through your nose, thinking about expanding from your stomach. As you exhale through your mouth, push your left knee into the object, and trace a big half-circle with your left arm as you rotate through your upper back to move your left shoulder toward the ground. Be sure to follow your hand with your eyes as you move. Complete two sets of six to eight repetitions on each side. Do twice the amount of sets on the weak side if an asymmetry is still present.

The Push-Up

The push-up is a great test of how stable you are through your core. When you transfer force through your body (think punching, throwing, or heavy squatting), you'll need core stability to allow the maximum amount of energy to move between your upper and lower body. Here's how we'll test it.

Test: Begin lying face down with your hands under your shoulders, your legs straight and your toes pulled to your shins. Press yourself up to the top of the push-up position. Do not allow any movement in your body except for your arms and shoulders.

If you weren't able to do the push-up, or you did, but your chest rose before your hips, we have some correctives for you to follow.

Progression 1: Hand Walk. Begin standing with your feet together. Bend forward and walk out to a push-up position, only using your arms. Return to the starting position, again only using your arms. Complete three sets of six repetitions.

Progression 2: Elevated Push-Up. Begin in a push-up position with your upper body elevated on a 6-inch to 2-foot-high sturdy object, such as a bench. With your elbows at a 45-degree angle to your body, slowly lower yourself to about 6 inches away from the bench. Push into the bench and think about reaching as you come to the top of the movement. Complete two sets of 10 repetitions. Once that is no longer challenging, lower the height by 6 to 12 inches and repeat.

The Straight-Leg Raise

This is a deceptively complex movement that can reveal how well your legs function separately and how stable your core remains during that motion. If you can't pass this test, any movement that resembles walking, running, or climbing is going to put unnecessary stress on your back and hips.

Test: Begin lying on your back with your feet together and toes up, with your arms out to your sides with palms up. Position your left mid-thigh next to a doorframe or stable vertical object. Keeping both knees straight, slowly raise your left leg as high as you can.

If you aren't able to reach the object or doorframe with your ankle bone, you're going to need some work to make this possible.

Progression 1: Supported Single-Leg Lower. Lie on your back with both legs straight and raised up in front of you. Wrap a towel or strap around your left foot and gently pull it toward you. You should feel a light stretch in your left hamstring. Slowly lower your right leg toward the ground, stopping when you are no longer able to keep your back flat against the ground and both knees straight.

Complete two sets of eight repetitions on each side. Do twice the amount of sets on the weak side if an asymmetry is present.

Once the first progression is fairly easy, we'll move to a more challenging variation.

Progression 2: Unsupported Single-Leg Lower. Begin in the same position as the first exercise, this time without using anything to hold your leg up. Place your arms at your sides, with your palms pressed firmly into the floor. Keeping the left leg straight, slowly lower your right leg toward the floor, stopping when you are no longer able to keep your back flat against the ground and both knees straight.

Complete two sets of eight repetitions on each side. Do twice the amount of sets on the weak side if an asymmetry is present.

Single-Leg Stance

About 40 percent of a normal walking gait takes place on one leg. Every time we go up stairs, we're on one leg. It's safe to say single-leg stability is important to normal functioning. It's no wonder, then, that we should take a look at how well you are able to stabilize yourself on one leg.

Test: To test this, simply stand with your feet together and raise one knee above your hip for 10 seconds. It's best to do this in front of a mirror to make sure your hips remain level. If you weren't able to hold each knee up for 10 seconds, or your hips weren't level, here are two exercises to help.

Progression 1: Single-Leg Glute Bridge. Begin lying on your back with your knees bent to 90 degrees. Pull one knee up toward your chest. Drive your planted foot through the floor and push your hips to the ceiling.

Complete two sets of 10 repetitions per side. Do twice the amount of sets on the weak side if an asymmetry is present.

Progression 2: Balance Beam. The next progression is simply walking on a balance beam. The beam can be anything from a few 2x4s to a fallen tree. Find something that is wide enough to plant a foot, and ideally, not very high off the ground. Shoot for three sets of about 30 seconds to a minute of balance time.

Conclusion

Don't beat yourself up if these movement tests gave you some difficulty. The point is to be proactive and test yourself regularly — by identifying areas that need improvement, you can proactively work on the progressions we've outlined above. A little prevention will go a long way to catch these issues before you're traversing mountainous terrain to find shelter or climbing through rubble after a building collapse.

Sources

About the Author

Ryne Gioviano, a regular OFFGRID contributor, co-owns Welligee Personal Training & Lifestyle in Naperville, Illinois. With a master's in exercise physiology and NSCA certification, he's an authority in fitness. Visit www.welligee.com for more.

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Hack Cash

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There's almost nothing that can't be done digitally. Looking for a companion? There are dating apps like Tinder. Need to deposit a check? Snap a pic of it and send it to your bank. Looking for a new bug-out bag? Do some online window shopping. The list goes on. And, unfortunately, so too do the ways in which we make ourselves vulnerable on the Web.

With the rise of virtual pickpockets, cyber terrorists, hacktivist groups, and militarized hackers, we as a society are getting more susceptible to online attacks — unless small businesses, large corporations, and government agencies beef up their security protocols. Of course, we each have a responsibility to protect ourselves online, but we're focusing here on companies because when they have to shell out more for cyber security, they pass those costs onto the consumers — us. Also, you might not realize it, but businesses house a lot of our personal information. Your physical address could be obtained by hacking a county archive. Your social security number could be stolen from government databases. And your credit card numbers can be swiped from an online store with nothing more than a mouse and keyboard.

So, surf the Web wisely — and don't be afraid to ask if your favorite stores, medical providers, and elected officials are doing enough to ensure that your private data stays private.

hack-cash

Hydration Pack Buyer’s Guide

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It's been almost a full day now and still, there's no one in sight. You estimate that you've been walking for about three hours since your last break and you're just about out of water. The two small bottles of water you carried got you this far, but you've got further to go. Three hours on your feet, and there hasn't been a sign of another living soul. There's got to be someone down this next stretch, you say to yourself.

Regardless if the above scenario played out on a nature hike or during a disaster, a lack of hydration can still be fatal. We won't belabor the reason why you'd need as much clean drinking water as possible. If you're reading this magazine, you already know why.

With space already limited in your pack and on your person, what's the best way to carry a large amount of water? Sure, you can carry a few half-liter bottles in a backpack or on a belt, but it can get mighty cumbersome and be an inefficient use of precious space. In this buyer's guide, we take a look at backpacks that are made to carry hydration reservoirs. Also called hydration packs, these backpacks have compartments for water bladders and furnishings that help route drinking tubes through and around the pack to keep them in place for ease of drinking.

What to Look For

Purpose: When buying a hydration pack, it's good to start out by deciding how much cargo space you need first. What's the purpose of this pack? Is it for a single-day hike? A multi-day camping trip? A get-home bag from the office in case all hell breaks loose? Pick the size of your bag accordingly.

Weight: Also be mindful of the overall weight after your gear and water is loaded into it. The great thing about a hydration pack is that it uses a refillable water reservoir that usually is positioned vertically on the back of the backpack. This helps with the overall balance of the bag, even when full with other gear.

Ease of Use: Consider how easy (or difficult) it is to access the reservoir for refilling and cleaning. Look at the hydration tube and make sure it's easy to access and stow while on the move. As with all gear considerations, these are personal choices that require some in-person fiddling.

Frame Size: When buying a backpack, make sure the bag's size is suitable for your body's frame. An over- or undersized pack can reduce your stamina and create back problems you simply don't need to deal with while contending with the Apocalypse.

You wouldn't hike with an ill-fitting boot would you? A properly fitted pack can enhance your endurance and reduce fatigue. A reputable retailer should be able to help you choose the correct size backpack.

Bladder: A key factor to consider is the hydration bladders themselves. There are many different variations, so shop around. Investigate how easy or difficult each is to clean. Also examine how they're secured inside your pack of choice.

Yes, water is a heavy commodity to carry, but the difficulties of storing and carrying water is greatly reduced with the use of a hydration pack. Which one is right for you? Let's examine some of the newest models out now.

Hydration Pack Buyer's Guide

  • 5.11 Triab 18 Backpack

    Dimensions - 20 x 13 x 7 inches
    Weight - 3 pounds, 4 ounces
    Colorway - Midnight Ash (shown), Sandstone
    MSRP - $140
    URL - http://www.511tactical.com/

    The TRIAB 18 is designed as a one-strap sling bag that can be used for a wide range of applications.

  • Black Diamond Nitro 22 Pack

    Dimensions - 19 x 10 x 7.5 inches
    Weight - 2 pounds
    Colorway - Moroccan Blue (shown), Deep Torch , Black
    MSRP - $120
    URL - http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/

    The Nitro 22 is a highly capable daypack with an external-access hydration sleeve that can accommodate reservoirs of varying sizes.

  • CambelBak Rim Runner 22

    Dimensions - 19.25 x 12.62 x 10.43 inches
    Weight - 2 pounds, 1 ouch (with reservoir)
    Colorway - Fallen Rock/Orchid Orange (shown), Sienna Red/Gun-metal, Charcoal/Chilli Pepper
    MSRP - $100
    URL - http://shop.camelbak.com/

    The Rim Runner is a good example of what CamelBak does best _ make products with hydration as its central focus.

  • Condor Outdoor Solveig Assult Pack

    Dimensions - 20 x 11 x 6 inches
    Weight - 3 pounds, 3 ounces
    Colorway - Tan (shown), Black, Olive Drab
    MSRP - $95
    URL - http://www.condoroutdoor.com/

    The Condor Solveig was originally conceived as a discreet assault pack and is jammed full of features.

  • Elite Survival Systems Pulse 24-Hour Backpack

    Dimensions - 19 x 11 x 8 inches
    Weight - 3 pound, 12 ounces
    Colorway - Coyote Tan (shown), Black
    MSRP - $160 ($180 with 3L reservoir
    URL - http://www.elitesurvival.com/

    Elite Survival System's Pulse is a feature-rich, hydration-ready pack that is constructed of 1,000-denier nylon and incorporates heavy-duty zippers that feature covered zipper chains to help prevent moisture seepage.

  • Grey Ghost Gear Stealth Operator Pack

    Dimensions - 17 x 9 x 4 inches
    Weight - 1 pound, 5 ounces
    Colorway - 14 colorways including, Kryptek Yeti (shown)
    MSRP - $109
    URL - http://www.greyghostgear.com/

    Grey Ghost Gear's Stealth Operator Pack is designed to blend into the crowd. The pack features a hydration pocket big enough to swallow up a 3-liter reservoir.

  • Tactical Tailor Removable Operator Pack

    Dimensions - 16.5 x 10 x 7 inches
    Weight - 2 pounds, 3 ounces
    Colorway - 7 colors including Foliage Green (shown)
    MSRP - $115 (as shown) to $135
    URL - http://www.tacticaltailor.com/

    The Removable Operator Pack is designed as a quick attach assault pack that attaches directly to Tactical Tailor's line of modular vests or larger packs.

Vacuum Sealer Basics

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Late night infomercials either suck you in or result in lost credibility. They do tend to be very effective for products that need a more detailed explanation or benefit from demonstrations. At some point, you may have seen an infomercial about a vacuum sealer. It might have been full of hyperbole with a host sporting a cool accent and a studio audience stocked with people who would probably give a standing ovation to a small poodle lazily licking himself.

As any hunters in our readership probably already know, don't let any of those negative associations sway you — vacuum sealers are truly handy and useful appliances.

Air Is Life

Remember that periodic table you had to memorize back in grade school? The eighth element, oxygen, is highly reactive and easily forms compounds with other elements (e.g. oxides such as rust). It's generated by photosynthesis, and without it, we would all asphyxiate and die.

But exposure to air — and the O2 that comprises 21 percent of it — has all sorts of deleterious side effects. It can, for instance, cause food to spoil. The presence of oxygen allows for the growth of bacteria and mold; we've all seen this with leftovers in the back of the fridge that we forgot about. Food also contains certain enzymes (oxidizing enzymes) that lead to spoilage when exposed to O2 — if you've ever left some vegetables out on the counter, the browning that you see is an example of this. And when fats become rancid? That's from oxidation, just simply from exposure to oxygen.

A Natural Resources Defense Council research report estimated that America wastes a staggering $165 billion's worth of food each year, from the farm to your fork. At a household level, a typical family of four is estimated to waste approximately $1,350 to $2,275 of food each year. That's a lot of meals, no matter how you slice it.

Vacuum sealing is the process of packaging items in a plastic bag or container, removing air from within, and sealing it closed. You end up with an airtight, watertight, vacuum-packed item. Think about that — it's not just foods that can benefit from those properties. You can inhibit metals from rusting and silver from tarnishing. You can waterproof documents or other important items. You can prevent evaporation. A vacuum-packed item also gets compressed and takes up less space.

So, it goes without saying that a vacuum sealer can be a great tool for the prepared individual.

How Does It Work?

Fundamentally, vacuum sealers need to do two things: evacuate air and seal the package. There are two primary methods to create the vacuum. The first is to place one open end of a plastic pouch into the sealer, which sucks air out of the package. The other is to place the entire package inside a large chamber from which air is removed. The former is known as an external sealer, and the latter a vacuum chamber sealer.

vacuum-sealers

A typical external sealer clamps down on the open end of the plastic pouch, encasing just the end within a rectangular or oval vacuum chamber while the rest of the bag sits outside of the machine. In the chamber, there's a vacuum port through which the pump extracts air. Once all the air has been extracted, a heat sealing bar melts the plastic to seal the pouch. Note that since the sealer is pulling air out of the pouch, liquids or powders may get sucked out, compromising the seal and potentially damaging the machine.

Chamber sealers, on the other hand, have a large compartment that engulfs the entire bag to be vacuum packed. Air is then removed from the entire vacuum chamber, rather than sucking air out of the bag itself. As a result, they're very effective and there's no issue with soups, sauces, and powders. However, chamber sealers are large, heavy, and very costly, so they're most commonly found in commercial and industrial applications. Therefore, we focus on external sealers in this article.

Vacuum Sealing BagsBags made for vacuum sealers can come in various guises. Pouches, open on just one end, come in a variety of different sizes. Rolls are open on both ends — you cut a piece to the exact length that you need, seal one end, then insert your items and vacuum and seal the other end. Zipper bags include a zip-lock style opening to make frequent access more convenient. Bags designed to be used with external sealers have special embossed interiors to help extract air from them; the texturing creates tiny channels for the air to be sucked out by the sealer, whereas two smooth surfaces might create a seal prematurely before all the air has been removed. However, because the pouch collapses and shrinks around the contents, delicate items can get crushed and sharp items might puncture the bag. Bags and rolls are available in various thicknesses, typically 3 to 4 mil. Some can be boiled, some not. Be sure to get bags with the characteristics you need for your application.

Here's some quail from a hunting trip almost two years ago that we found in the bottom of the freezer. Using a regular freezer bag has resulted in freezer burn.

Here's some quail from a hunting trip almost two years ago that we found in the bottom of the freezer. Using a...

vacuum-cannisters

Accessories such as canisters from Weston ($13 for 1.5-quart and $17 for 2-quart sizes) and containers from Foodsaver ($13) provide convenient storage for frequently accessed and delicate items.

Accessories such as canisters from Weston ($13 for 1.5-quart and $17 for 2-quart sizes) and containers from Foodsaver...

 

Many sealers have an accessory port to connect a hose to the vacuum pump. This allows you to remove air from various other accessories, from special canisters to mason jar sealers to bottle stoppers.

Seal Your Eats

Vacuum sealers can help you avoid freezer burn, wilted and spoiled food, mold, and a stale snack or dinner. Savings from reducing your food waste by itself might seal the deal for you. But there are many more benefits, especially for those focused on preparedness.

You can enjoy the cost savings of purchasing food supplies in bulk, vacuum sealing portions of it to use over time. The prolonged shelf life of your vacuum-sealed food would serve you well in extended emergency situations, not to mention protecting your supplies from creepy crawly things. For example, pasta, grains, and nuts that might normally be good for six months can instead last one-and-a-half to two years. Meat or vegetables that might only go six to eight months in the freezer without getting freezer burn can remain fresh for several years. Of course, perishable food still needs to be refrigerated or frozen. You can't vacuum seal a raw chicken thigh and just throw it in your pantry. Also, remember that vacuum sealing isn't equivalent to canning either.

In Issue 9, we featured an article about building a six-month food supply — a vacuum sealer would be a great tool to help you effectively package your supplies for storage.

Here are some tips for vacuum sealing food:

– Don't Stuff the Bag Like Santa Claus: Leave several inches of space at the open end, and be sure to carefully clean the open end, to ensure the machine can get a good heat seal. If you want to be able to open and reseal the same bag with its contents one or more times, leave even more extra space and trim off just enough of the bag when you open it. Straighten and smooth out the bag as much as you can when placing it in your sealer.

– Get Frosty: While many sealers tout a “moist” mode, drip pans, and other features to deal with wet items, your best bet will be to par-freeze them before vacuum sealing them in a bag. That means putting the items in the freezer just long enough for them to solidify, perhaps one to two hours. With items that aren't too moist, placing a paper towel in the pouch between the items and the open end works — just seal the paper towel in with your goodies.

– Be Berry Careful: Soft or fragile foods like berries, cookies, pastries, and breads will get crushed during the sealing process. Par-freeze them as well before sealing to prevent this. The best way to do this with items like berries is to spread them out on a cookie sheet so they're not touching. If you allow them to clump up in a frozen block, air pockets may form and interfere with the vacuum seal.

– Paper-Towel Wrap: Dried foods with sharp edges like pasta and nuts can be wrapped in a paper towel to prevent punctures. A paper towel will also stop shredded cheese from being sucked out during the sealing process.

– Bag the Bag: For powdery or grainy substances, you can leave them in their original bag before sealing it inside a pouch.

– De-enzyme Your Veggies: We discussed how enzymes in vegetables lead to browning and loss of flavor. Blanching vegetables prevents this and is your first step before vacuum sealing them. Briefly boil the vegetables, then immerse them in cold water. After drying them off, seal them up.

Sealers can also help with cooking. You can use a canister accessory to marinate meat — the vacuum helps the meat absorb your marinade way quicker than normal. If you like to cook using the sous-vide method, where food is slowly cooked in a temperature-regulated water bath, a vacuum sealer is a must to bag your items. You can also prep meals (either fully or partially) on the weekend and vacuum seal them to make it quicker and easier to make lunch or dinner during the week when you're pressed for time.

Just like your guns or other tools, take care of your vacuum sealer. Keep it clean and maintain it as per the manufacturer's instructions.

Not Just Food

Just like your buddy at college who got an electric deep fryer and started deep frying everything in sight, when you get a new vacuum sealer you'll feel an urge to vacuum pack anything within reach. In fact, any items that you wish to protect from oxidation, moisture, and corrosion is fair game. Here are just a few useful applications beyond food supplies:

– Store guns and ammunition, safe from corrosion
– Protect key survival gear that you plan to cache for later use
– Preserve currency (cash, precious metals, etc.) or barter goods for your cache
– Keep matches and tinder dry and ready for use
– Shield first-aid supplies from dirt, moisture, or contamination
– Safeguard important documents. (Note that having a manual or pulse mode will be useful for sealing delicate items like documents.)
– Store personal items that will become “luxuries” after SHTF, like cigarettes or your favorite book

The list of applications is limited only by your imagination. Vacuum sealers are truly useful tools. So, with this in mind, we've listed on the following pages a – representative sample of various types of vacuum sealers.

Vacuum Sealers Buyers Guide

  • Foodsave FM-2100

    Dimensions - 17x9x4in
    Weight - 5.23 pounds
    Max Bag Width - 11 inches
    URL - http://www.foodsaver.com/

    Foodsaver is the most widely recognized vacuum sealer brand, having played a large part in popularizing vacuum sealers for home use.

  • Oliso VS-97A

    Dimensions - 8.3 x6.8 x 4.1 inches
    Weight 2.5 pounds
    Max Bag Width - N/A
    URL - Http://www.oliso.com/

    The Oliso features a very clever design in a compact and modern package that would look at home in your granite-encrusted fantasy kitchen.

  • Weston Harvest Guard Portable Vacuum Sealer

    Dimensions - 15.6x7x3.75 inches
    Weight - 4.5 Pounds
    Max Bag Width - 11 inches
    URL - http://www.westonsupply.com/

    Weston's Harvest Guard portable vacuum sealer is more powerful than it might look. Compact and light, it's designed to be used anywhere _ at home, on the road, or in the field.

  • Weston Pro 1100

    Dimensions - 15.9 x 12.5 (14.6 with roll holder) x 6.5 inches
    Weight - 15.6 poinds
    Max Bag Width - 11 inches
    URL - http://www.westonsupply.com/

    Weston's Pro line of sealers are gleaming stainless steel industrial tools in a sea of plastic kitchen appliances.

  • Weston Pro 2300

    Dimensions - 19.6 x 13.8 x 5.9 inches
    Weight - 22.3 pounds
    Max Bag Width - 15 inches
    URL - http://www.westsonsupply.com/

    The Pro 2300 is the honey badger of this bunch.

Bug-Out Bracelet

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It's often said that good things come in small packages, and this is never truer than in a survival scenario. Although it's always wise to have a 72-hour bug-out bag and a fully stocked pantry at your disposal, lugging around a 60-pound backpack 24/7/365 is essentially impossible. When SHTF, if something isn't on your person and easily accessible, the odds are high that it's going to get lost, stolen, or simply left behind.

This line of reasoning led one former military serviceman and current law enforcement officer to create Superesse Straps and the Bug-Out Bracelet Pro. While serving for more than a decade in the U.S. Army Special Operations Command, he began crafting simple paracord bracelets as a way to pass the time and boost morale for his team. Over the years, the idea expanded to incorporate various tools into the bracelets — items that could prove invaluable to any military operator, survivalist, or outdoor adventurer.

After returning from deployment overseas and sharing photos of some of his creations on social media, Superesse Straps' creator began getting substantial interest in his products, and the business was formed. Now he works full-time in law enforcement, serves part-time in the U.S. Army Reserve, and produces these bracelets at home with help from his wife. Each bracelet takes up to three hours to craft, and contains a selection of over 80 possible options. Buyers can choose from a number of pre-selected packages, or order a fully customized one-of-a-kind bracelet for more specific needs.

The bracelet featured here is Superesse Straps' top-of-the-line model, known as the Bug-Out Bracelet (BOB) Pro. It contains an impressive 28 individual tools.

But does being jam-packed equal being effective and functional? Read on to see how the bracelet fared in our hands-on test.

Make & Model: Superesse Straps Bug-Out Bracelet Pro
Wrist Sizes: 6.75 to 8.75 inches
# Of Tools Included: 25 to 30-plus
MSRP: $125 to $195
URL: www.superessestraps.com

superesse-straps-bug-out-bracelet-pro-002

Underneath the P38 can opener is a Coast Guard-approved SOLAS signal reflector.

Underneath the P38 can opener is a Coast Guard-approved SOLAS signal reflector.

The 411

The BOB Pro that we received features the standard 25-plus tools, as well as two optional extras: the navigation add-on and waterproof supply core. This brings us to a total of 28 built-in tools, nine of which can be accessed without disassembling or unraveling the bracelet. So, we'll cover these nine items first, before getting into the bracelet's internal components.

Immediately noticeable on the bracelet's exterior is an impact-proof luminous compass, part of the navigation add-on package. Superesse Straps' creator tells us he field-tested five different compasses via real-world military experience, and this is the one that got the job done every time. Also included in the navigation package is a luminous glow-light surface on the buckle, which allows for map reading in low light conditions.

Next, you'll notice the trusty P38 can-opener held in place by two elastic ranger bands. Attached to this tool is a SOLAS (Safety of Life at Sea) reflector for long-distance signaling. Another ranger band holds a live fire wick tinder strand, ideal for starting fires in damp conditions. All currently produced BOB Pro models now also contain a Kevlar Utility Thread sawing cord beneath the fourth ranger band, although our test bracelet didn't include this tool.

There's more to the buckle than meets the eye — the male half has a whistle and ferro rod, and the female half holds a white ceramic fire striker with a razor-sharp cutting edge. The aforementioned elastic ranger bands are also combustible, and can be burned for smoke signaling.

To access the remainder of the bracelet's components, you'll have to unravel the paracord and cut open the core. Once this is done, you won't be able to reassemble it yourself, but if you ever deploy your bracelet in a survival scenario, Superesse Straps will rebuild or replace it for a small fee. That said, disassembly is relatively straightforward — just start at one end of the paracord and unravel until the core can be removed. The waterproof option wraps the core in sealed heat-shrink, which we cut away using the ceramic blade in the buckle. Inside this, you'll find the core contents rolled up in duct tape.

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superesse-straps-bug-out-bracelet-pro-supply-core

Starting at one end and working towards the other, the paracord is unraveled to access the bracelet’s supply core. On bracelets with the waterproof option, the black rubber heat-shrink layer must be peeled away as well.

Starting at one end and working towards the other, the paracord is unraveled to access the bracelet’s supply core. On...

The Verdict

The BOB Pro is surprisingly light and compact given the number of tools it contains, and wears well without feeling cumbersome. It's also nicely built, and easily withstood everyday civilian use in our short-term testing. Unwrapping the tightly rolled duct tape core does require patience and dexterity, especially since it contains several sharp items, but the contents are laid out carefully to minimize the risk of injury.

In a market filled with $25 paracord bracelets (and junky ones for $5), the generously optioned BOB Pro we tested (at $160 retail) seems wildly expensive at first blush. But as we've found when it comes to potentially life-saving gear, you don't want to cheap out. Considering the quality contents and sturdy construction, we'd say it's a solid value for the money — if you have the money to spare. The only available options our test bracelet didn't have are colored/MultiCam paracord and the Fire Cord paracord with a combustible inner wick (both of which cost extra). For those looking to spend less, Superesse Straps offers other survival bracelets priced as low as $39.

And, of course, we also appreciate the fact that the company is veteran owned and operated, and that all of its bracelets are handmade in the USA.

As the saying goes, you get what you pay for. And with the BOB Pro, you get a lot.

superesse-straps-bug-out-bracelet-pro-contents

Superesse Straps BOB Pro Contents

– Paracord Type III, 550 lb, 10 to 15 ft
– Nylon strands within paracord, 35 lb, 125 to 250 ft
– Mini curved surgical blade w/ lanyard hole
– Fire steel ferro rod (inside male buckle) *
– Ceramic striker and blade (inside female buckle) *
– Survival torch, water- and windproof
– Four elastic rubber ranger bands *
– Jute string tinder – 1 ft, 3-ply
– Live fire wick tinder (under ranger band) *
– UCO strike-anywhere match head
– Small adhesive bandage
– Silver metal safety pin, curved
– Sewing needle
– Two duct tape patches
– P38 can opener (under ranger bands) *
– Two MSR water purification tablets
– Aluminum foil square – 5×5 in
– Small barbed fish hook
– Flexible bushman wire – 1 ft
– Black steel heavy-duty safety pin
– Steel finishing nail
– Shim pin/cotter pin
– Micro ink pen
– Emergency whistle (on male buckle) *
– SOLAS reflective surface (on P38 can opener) *
– Luminous compass, water- and impact-proof *
– Luminous glow-light surface (on female buckle) *
– Waterproof heat-shrink supply core
– Not pictured: Kevlar Utility Thread sawing cord, 30 in (under ranger band) *

Bonus 1: Water- and rust-proof 8-ounce storage tin
Bonus 2: Business card-size reference material listing bracelet contents, water purification instructions, and Morse Code signal reference guide.

[Note: Asterisk (*) indicates accessibility without unraveling bracelet.]

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