What If A Riot Threatens To Destroy Your Business?

I was working hard in the store, counting products and taking inventory, but little things kept gnawing at the edges of my attention. My two employees, normally industrious kids, just wouldn't stop texting the moment they started their shifts. Then, there were t sounds of helicopters flying overhead. And a lot of foot traffic passed by the storefront, yet it seemed odd that no one was coming inside. Sure, it was snowing a little, but not enough to slow sales to a grind.

Suddenly, there was a loud slapping sound. Someone had thrown a cup of soda at the store window. Beyond the cola-soaked glass, people ran down the sidewalks and street, all in the same direction. My youngest worker said his friends were texting him about a riot. “Riot? What riot?” I asked, rushing to the back office. Turning on the TV, I watched in horror as the local news station explained the event: Chaos had indeed erupted…and the epicenter was very close to the shop.

In this edition of OFFGRID's “What If?” feature, we pose the question, what do you do if you're a small-business owner caught in the middle of a growing riot?

For answers, OFFGRID asked three different writers for their approach to handling this frightening and unpredictable situation. With us is Patrick McCarthy, a freelance journalist, lifelong outdoor enthusiast, and OFFGRID contributor. Erik Lund is a federal law enforcement agent with a vast array of tactical and survival expertise. And myself, I have been a survival instructor for the past 18 years and am the author of a new book on survival and emergency preparedness, Prepare for Anything.

With our varied backgrounds, we each provide different ways to solve the same dire situation. Read on to find out if our methods would work in your SHTF preparations.

The Scenario

Survival SituationInner city riot
Your Crew3 adults (you and two co-workers)
LocationDowntown Detroit, Michigan
Time of day4 p.m.
Level of DifficultyAdvanced
Length10 miles
SeasonWinter
WeatherSnowing, highs in the mid 30s F and lows in the 10s F

The Set-Up: You're a convenience storeowner in your mid 50s. Today, you have two of your best employees working, both college kids in their early 20s. You hear on the news that a riot has broken out due to the announcement of an unpopular trial verdict. The epicenter of the riot is no more than six blocks from your business and expanding in a swirl of pandemonium. The news report says that the police presence is being withdrawn from the area and reorganized for riot preparation. Dark is approaching and although you know the area well, there's a gauntlet of looting, random acts of violence, and general panic for a 10-mile radius. You call 911, but the lines are all busy. You lock up your store with the collapsible metal curtains across the glass storefront and shut off the lights. You've pulled all the money (just over $1,000 in cash) out of the register and safe and stuffed it onto your person.

Your Gear: Plenty of packaged food, bottled drinks, a cellphone, a landline, a box cutter, a backpack, and the clothes on your back.

The Complication: While watching TV for more info on the situation, crowds of people suddenly begin trying to break in the front windows. Do you try to calm the mob, perhaps attempting to pay them off with the petty cash and pray they leave your store alone? Do you lock your back office, hoping they don't get through the metal security curtains and kill the three of you? Do you attempt to run out the back door and brave the elements alone? Do you bring your young co-workers with you for protection upon fleeing? What would you do?

Average Joe: Patrick McCarthy's Approach

Even on a good day, downtown Detroit can be a rough place to call home, but we were about to find out how bad it really gets. We had been hearing rumors of unrest in the city for days now, but halfway into my shift, the televised news reports were beginning to get increasingly ominous. The rioters had tired of simple breaking and entering, and were now turning to mob violence. Destruction for the sake of destruction — torching buildings, flipping cars, and viciously beating anyone who stood in their way.

Earlier in the morning, we had seen police cars screaming down the street, sirens blaring. Hours later, I spotted one headed the opposite direction. No sirens this time. Around 2 or 3 p.m., we heard the first gunshots — not an uncommon occurrence in this part of town, but never with this frequency. Then, the sounds started getting closer. I made the decision to close the doors early. It's not like we had seen any customers for hours, anyway. Snow was beginning to fall as we pulled the security gates closed.

Then reality set in — none of us were going to make it home that night. The sounds felt like they were closing in from all sides. Smashing glass down the block, cars blasting by the shop at full throttle, more staccato pops of gunfire in the distance.

Before cashing out the register, I told my two employees, Damon and Rick, to close up shop and kill the lights. It would draw too much attention to simply walk out to my truck and drive away, and it was much too cold to make it far on foot. Besides, a middle-aged man and two scrawny college kids would make for an easy target on the streets, especially in our work uniforms. We'd have to hunker down for the night in the back office, and head out just before dawn once the violence subsided.

The evening hours ticked by as we huddled around the tiny security camera monitor, watching the footage of shadows running by underneath the streetlights outside. TV news was no help — after the chief of police made a statement that the situation was under control and a perimeter had been set up, the newscast cut away to other stories, and eventually to late-night infomercials. How can no one care what's going on here?

Not long after midnight, someone spotted the security camera out front, and smashed it with a brick. Then the sounds outside descended upon us, with disembodied voices shouting and unseen objects shattering the storefront windows. The assault seemed relentless, but miraculously, the security gates held. Thank God I spent extra for those reinforcements. I could hear through the wall that the pawn shop next door hadn't fared so well. Knowing that the security gate wouldn't withstand another barrage, Damon, Rick, and I agreed on a plan. We would take some supplies and the cash from the register, head for my truck outside at 4:30 a.m. (hopefully when most of the looters would grow tired and head home), and drive like hell.

In the early morning hours, once the noise outside had died down, I grabbed my backpack and silently loaded it up. Bottles of water, protein bars, beef jerky, and the limited contents of our medical end-cap. Each of us pocketed a box cutter from the storeroom — not that it would do much, but it felt better than nothing. I held onto the old D-cell flashlight from under the counter, more for use as a blunt instrument than a source of light. I was shaking as morning approached. Was this really the right choice?

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I opened the back door at exactly 4:30 to find our parking lot looking like a war zone. There was trash and broken glass everywhere, and the choking smell of ash filled my nostrils. My truck was on the far side of the lot, or at least what was left of it. Someone had smashed the windows and gutted the steering column. The tires were slashed. My heart sank as I realized it wouldn't be taking us anywhere. Rick looked terrified, but Damon said he thought we could make it to his apartment about a mile away. It was starting to get light, and there was no turning back now — the apartment would have to do.

We walked quickly as dawn approached, feeling as if we'd find another mob around every street corner. Fortunately, only a few stragglers were out at this hour, and we were ignored. I think I may have seen a body slumped over in an intersection, but I definitely wasn't going to go get a closer look. After what felt like an eternity, we made it to Damon's complex, where the wrought-iron security gate out front appeared scarred but intact. Inside the building it was eerily quiet. We made it to his apartment, bolted the door, and practically collapsed. It's amazing how much covering a mile in fight-or-flight mode takes out of you.

The three of us holed up in the one-room apartment for most of the day, finally able to eat something and watch the news. It was pretty clear that Damon intended to stay here until the riots were contained, and I couldn't fault him. But Rick and I just wanted to get home to our families. I knew Laura and the kids would be worried sick by now, despite the text messages I sent before my battery died. I tried to call them using Damon's landline, but I couldn't get through. All the lines must be jammed. So, the two of us decided to stay the night and head out again first thing in the morning.

Despite the exhaustion, I found myself barely able to sleep that night. Maybe it was adrenaline wearing off, or just plain fear at what the day would hold. In the early morning hours, we talked with Damon to hash out our travel plans. Although he couldn't afford a car, Damon mentioned that his roommate had an old hatchback in the parking garage. The roommate was out of town for the week, and Damon figured that he wouldn't mind if we borrowed the car — getting it out of the city would probably save it from the same fate as my truck, anyway.

After topping off our supplies, grabbing the car keys, and picking up an aluminum baseball bat from the apartment's closet, Rick and I made our way to the building's attached parking structure. Eyes adjusting to the twilight, we found the hatchback where Damon said it'd be. We were in luck — due to its ratty appearance, it had been overlooked by the mob. We hopped in, and it sputtered to life as I turned the key.

Pulling out onto the street, the engine noise seemed deafening against the early morning's silence. We drove block after block, tension slowly fading as we navigated through the abandoned cars and rubble. A few miles later, the roads cleared, and we eventually rounded a corner to find a handful of linked metal barricades blocking the street. A small army of police officers stepped out from behind the barricade, shotguns and AR-15s in hand. They weren't messing around. This must be the “containment plan” we heard about on the news. After a few minutes of interrogation about where we got the car (and why we had a baseball bat) and showing them our IDs and my business card, we were allowed to pass through. As we headed out of the city into the gray sunrise, my anger at the police's complacency turned into a stark realization: I would never be so unprepared again.

Federal Agent: Erik Lund's Approach

The sound was as clear as an emergency dive klaxon on a submarine. The metal security curtains at the front of the store were being kicked. Jumping to my feet, I left the back office to see how well the curtains were bearing the attack. “Stay here,” I told Damon and Rick, my two young employees.

I mentally cursed myself for allowing the news coverage of the escalating riots to distract me. I should have left when I had the chance — when the angry protesters were gathering, before the mob mentality broke loose. I could have simply driven home, but now that was no longer an option. The falling snow meant the roads were likely to quickly become slushy and clogged with vehicles trying to leave the danger zone…or with those trying to get into the area to participate in the riots. There's nothing like a good riot to bring out the party animals. Groups of marauders were roaming around, making their way toward the excitement of the riots. The thought of being stranded or carjacked in the middle of a Detroit winter snowstorm had the sex appeal of Nancy Pelosi. The idea of packing up and sacking up for a bug-out hike back home at night with temperatures hovering in the teens had even less. This meant I would make my stand here, at my store. I had food, shelter from the elements, good communications, a reasonably defensible structure, and a firm location should emergency services be needed, regardless of their response time. This would be my Alamo.

Walking to the front of the store, I quickly retrieved my Glock 17 9mm pistol from its secure place behind the laminated security glass enclosure that protected my counter. I slid two additional magazines into my pants pocket. Several unsuccessful robbery attempts motivated my increased security protocols, but I never wanted it. I never wanted to work inside a bullet-resistant box, but what I wanted and what I needed were two entirely different things. Along with the protective enclosure, security cameras provided me a full 360-degree view outside the building. And what I saw was not good.

A group of marauders, 20 to 30 strong, had descended upon my store and several of the “leaders” were kicking and hitting the front security screen in an attempt to breach the building. I yelled to Damon and Rick, “Grab the hose and hook it up to the spigot! Now! Get up here when you're done!” I grabbed my cellphone and made a quick call to my son to inform him what was happening, with instructions to call the Michigan State Police. If anything did happen to me, I wanted someone other than the locals to know what caused my demise. I asked him to be ready to come pick me up at the store if needed. While I did have my own vehicle in the back parking lot, I had no way of protecting or securing it. And I had no way to know if it would be in drivable condition when I finally got to it. My son acknowledged that he'd be ready for my call and could reach the store in about 30 minutes.

My two employees came running to the counter. “All set boss,” Damon said, looking a bit nervous, but trying to sound brave. “Now what?” I told them the plan was for them to stay inside the security counter and to call my cellphone. I was going to the roof with the hose. I wanted them to watch the cameras and tell me where the mob was moving around the store. They understood the plan and locked the security door as I left for the back of the store.

After getting dressed as warmly as possible given the circumstances, I dragged the hose up the access ladder in the store to the roof. The roof was flat with a small knee wall that ran around the circumference of the building. It afforded me a little protection and allowed me to move around with a small degree of concealment. From the roof I could hear the chanting, laughing, and cheering even clearer now. Lying prone, I peeked over the knee wall. I could see a large part of the group through the falling snow. Even on the roof I could feel the vibrations of the blows to the security curtains shaking the building. Those curtains had done a good job so far, but I didn't know how much longer they would hold. I held the nozzle of the hose just over the knee wall and squeezed the handle. A flood of freezing water rained down on several subjects attacking the security screens. Several seconds passed before the thugs realized exactly what was happening. They were thoroughly soaked in sub-zero temperatures, trying to run out of range of my hose amid yells and curses. Those thugs will be hypothermic in 10 minutes if they don't leave and get out of those wet clothes, I thought to myself. The first wave had been repelled.

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Through the hoots and jeers of the crowd laughing at the drenched rats running around, my initial success quickly faded. Some of the crowd accepted my defense as a challenge and began throwing everything that wasn't tied down at me and the building. They wisely kept their distance from my hose; rushing up to throw some object and quickly retreating. I was willing to play this game as long as I could but after a couple of hours the cold was quickly affecting me, too. Everything was numb. Peering over the wall, I observed one particularly defiant soul push through the crowd and walk right up to the front of the building. Rising up to drench the bold rat, I was greeted with a steady cadence of pops ringing out from his pistol. “F#*k me!” I screamed, as I dove behind the knee wall. I wasn't about to randomly shoot back into a crowd, and the roof was no longer a safe option. Checkmate. I needed to get inside and work my way back to the security counter.

Climbing down the access ladder I could hear more shots zipping through the security screen. Reaching the counter, my two wide-eyed employees opened the door and let me in.

“Damn, dude! They're shooting at us!” Damon screamed.

“Thank you, Captain Obvious!” I shouted back. “Call the police again. Let them know were getting shot at!”

Looking up, I immediately saw my investment in the security counter had paid off. Two shots had randomly hit the security glass, and one would have injured someone had the glass not stopped it. Meanwhile, Damon had miraculously reached a live voice and was conveying our situation. Then, he shook his head as he put his phone away: “I got through, but the operator said everyone was getting shot at and they would send someone as soon as they could.”

“Well, as long as we stay in this box,” I said, “we'll be OK.” At that exact moment, Rick pointed to the camera covering the back of the store and yelled, “Who the hell is that?!”

Four men with rifles jumped out of the SUV and moved toward the back door. I pulled my Glock from its holster. “They are not getting inside this store,” I said. “Damon, call the cops again, tell them there's about to be a gunfight!” I moved to the back of the store and took up a position to engage anyone who forced their way through the back door. Suddenly, the back door erupted with banging sounds. I raised the Glock ready to shoot should the door break loose. Over the sound of the banging I heard voices arguing, but then I recognized one. “Dad!! It's Jacob! Open the door!” My son and some of his friends had arrived.

I had never been so happy to see my son (well, except maybe on the day he was born). We all piled into the SUV and left the store. The four-wheel drive handled the snowy roads just as easily as the four rifles would have handled any predators looking for an easy meal. Thanks to the quick thinking of my son, we all made it home safe. Several days later, the riots finally ended and relative calm returned to the area. The store had been ransacked and set on fire — it was a total loss. Insurance covered most of my losses, but I choose not to rebuild. Retiring to the country seemed a more appealing option.

Survival Expert: Tim MacWelch's Approach

As the looters tore and kicked at the metal security screen, yelling like animals, the real danger of the event began to sink into my mind. If those people broke through the barricade, they would destroy my livelihood — and they might beat me to death just for kicks. And if I tried to slip out the back, I'd be out there in the midst of them.

And I wasn't just worried about myself. My two employees are young enough to be my sons. Their safety was my responsibility, too. Staying off the streets would be the smartest thing to do, if only I weren't sitting in a prime target for looting. Watching the news broadcasts didn't help. They described the mayhem on the streets — my streets, my hometown. Aerial footage from news helicopters showed thousands of people in the streets. Vehicles and buildings had been lit on fire. One piece of footage showed a man being beaten by a group.

Another attempt to use my cellphone and the landline proved fruitless. All of the phone lines were jammed. The news said that buses, taxis, and the Detroit People Mover light rail system had been suspended. We had no way out of the neighborhood, except on foot.

My home in the suburbs would be unreachable, but I had a rough idea of where my employees lived. Both lived on the outskirts of downtown. After a quick discussion, I found out that the youngest man, Rick, lived closest to the store, about 15 blocks away — but on the other side of the riot's epicenter. There was no way I'd risk our lives on that trek. The other worker, Damon, lived 22 blocks away from the store, but away from the main rioting. We agreed that we'd head there, or at least try to.

After stuffing the store's cash into my wallet and jacket pockets, I loaded up our only backpack with snacks, drinks, and a box cutter. Then I faced the back door. Scared of what might be on the other side, I pressed my ear against the door and listened for a few moments. As quietly as possible, I unlocked the door and opened it a crack. The alley was dark already, even though sunset had not quite come. I saw some movement by the alley opening, so I ducked back inside to wait. The air was cold and raw with the snow flurries falling. None of us were dressed for a long walk in the open.

After another peek down the alley showed that the way was clear, we exited and locked the two deadbolts on the dirty metal door. The young men agreed to stick with me, as they seemed almost as frightened as I was. Nearing the first open street, I took a deep breath and plunged into the stream of foot traffic. Some people had bandanas and scarves covering their faces. These, I suspected, were up to no good. Other people were laughing and joking, reveling as if this were a tailgate party at a Red Wings game. Then a few other people scurried by with frightened expressions and quick movements. And no sooner than I began to think that they should probably play it cool, a terrified woman got socked in the face by a girl and her boyfriend. The couple kicked off a “boot party” on the poor woman before running away with her purse.

Should we help her? I asked myself. Not with a grand in cash stuffed in my pockets and two scared guys expecting me to get them out alive, my conscience shouted back.

I pulled my boys close and whispered, “Don't look afraid. We have to blend in.” Damon nodded and pulled the front of his undershirt up to his nose, covering his face. Rick followed suit, popping his jacket's collar and zipping it up all the way past his mouth. In that moment, I had hope that this charade might just work.

The wind began to pick up and the snow fell a little harder, though this didn't dampen the rioter's parade. As we threaded the crowds, block by block, I witnessed trashcans hurled through windows, small cars being flipped over, and fires being lit everywhere. My nerves were beginning to wear down, and I needed this to be over. As our trio turned a corner, halfway to the safe haven of Damon's apartment, I walked right into a huge muscular man who was stinking of liquor. Startled, we all stopped. He was lightly dressed, despite the cold and his knuckles were dripping blood.

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“What do think about that verdict, man?” he asked. Realizing there was only one right answer, I shouted, “It's bullshit! Those courts are out to get everybody! I can't even believe it. I just can't believe it.” The big man simply grunted and headed off with a slight stagger. Another test barely passed.

Another block passed, and soon the crowds started to thin. But we weren't out of danger yet. Thugs still roamed the streets, looking for easy targets and potential victims. And all three of us were bitterly cold. Frostbite was a serious concern now. But eight blocks more, and we'd be at Damon's apartment. As I plodded forward, we drew near to something I hadn't thought of before — a hotel. It'd be the perfect place to hide out until the looting subsided. There were two hotels between my shop and the apartment. Since the lobby of the first one was on fire, the second would have to be our refuge. This hotel was undamaged, and I had plenty of cash to pay for a room.

“This might just be your lucky day after all,” I said to my boys as I pulled the hotel's door handle. But it didn't budge. I grabbed it with both hands and yanked hard. It wasn't frozen shut, it was locked. My hope began to dissolve. I knocked on the large glass window, but there was no one inside. I banged on the glass harder, and suddenly a squad of buff men in nice suits entered the lobby from a side office. Each one with a coiled radio earpiece in his ear and a pistol in his hand. They must be hotel security. Then I realized how it all looked: Three men were at the door during a riot, two with their faces covered, banging on the front entrance. I wouldn't have let them in either. So much for the hotel idea.

We resumed our tense trek, passing burning cars and drug-idled looters. It seemed like our frozen odyssey would never end. For morale, I handed out some of the snacks and drinks. Though the drinks were now basically slushies or outright ice, the rock-hard granola bars were edible and did seem to give my boys some energy. “Only three blocks left,” Damon said.

The snowfall started to diminish when I turned the corner and saw the most beautiful sight that entire day: an immense line of police officers, dozens deep. In fact, hundreds of officers in riot gear. Some were on horseback, in vehicles, on motorcycles, but most were on foot and preparing to march.

A queasy feeling gripped my stomach. We'd already been mistaken for looters and slipped past a whole army of them for a better part of the evening. Would the police think that of us also? Would they even let us pass? Our trio continued up the sidewalk, as if the police were not even there. But as we drew near to them, several officers stopped us. They asked for ID and to look in my backpack. I explained our ordeal and our destination. I silently thanked God that Damon had his driver's license with his address, legitimizing our nearby destination. Fortunately, the orders were given for the officers to advance, and they decided to let us pass, mainly because they had more important things to do. I nodded, thanking them, and let out a huge sigh of relief as we slipped past the officers.

After two more blocks, we'd finally made it to Damon's apartment. He practically sprinted to the thermostat and turned up the heater. The warm air felt like fire against our frostbitten faces. Damon offered me and Rick a couple of beers from the fridge. Sure, my drink was cold, but I needed it. After hours of raw nerves, frigid temperatures, and braving the horde of looters, I finally felt that we were safe.

Conclusion

A riot is a scary, yet survivable, event. The first and most important step is to stay informed of the situation as early as possible. The TV, radio, and Internet can provide some news, but they'll be biased and not necessarily up to date. Social media can sometimes provide local info, but they're even less reliable for accuracy. Try to discover where the disturbance is located and why it's happening.

Then communicate your situation frequently with your loved ones while the grid's still up. Tell them where you are and what you plan to do. That way, if you lose contact, they'll have a general sense of where to look for you when it's safe.

Once critical mass has been reached for a riot to form, one way to stay safe from a roaming mob is to hunker down and avoid the streets — unless you're in a position like our story's shopkeeper, trapped in a looter's paradise. While firearms, surveillance cameras, security curtains, and bullet-resistant glass can provide added safety, they can't be relied upon as the only solution against a legion of marauders.

This brings us to the other method to survive civil unrest: blend into the crowd. Whatever topic sparked the rioters, yell what they yell, chant what they chant, and say what they want to hear. One thing always holds true: the bigger the crowd, the lower the IQ of the mob mentality. If you find yourself in the middle of a riot, try to make your way to the edges and away from the crowd. But as you make your escape, be very careful not to get pushed up against a wall or fence. You could be crushed by the press of people. Seek a safe haven to hole up until the crowd disbands, and if you hear nearby breaking glass or smell smoke, move to a new hiding spot.

How would you react to the same scenario as played out by our panel?  Share your plan with us on our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/OFFGRIDmag.


Bug-Out Bike

As a father, he had it all planned out. Food, water, security…well, almost everything. Jayson Ross felt good about his preparations in the Mountain West region, but when his daughter chose to attend a college on the East Coast, her safety was suddenly out of his control. “If something bad happens really fast, I would never see her again,” Jayson Ross says. “And I wasn't cool with that.”

Ross has been a survivalist since childhood. He's spent most of his life training in hunting, fieldcraft, camping, firearms, scuba diving, athletics, and more. It's culminated in his cofounding ReadyMan.com, an online company that's made up largely of special-operation veterans and offers a wide range of survival training services through online videos and live courses. Yet, no amount of his equipment and skills could get his daughter home if a major disaster or social breakdown occurred. Not willing to accept that sort of loss, he began breaking down the challenges she might face in a 2,100-mile cross-country trek. Ultimately, Ross couldn't get past the near certainty that after a major event, roadways would be snarled with traffic and gasoline would be at a premium.

The only alternative was to build a well-equipped, lightweight, and maneuverable vehicle to carry his daughter forward when an automobile couldn't. In other words, he would have to build her a dual-sport motorbike.

Why a Motorcycle?

Ross's plan was to augment his daughter's Subaru Outback with a small trailer that carried two Suzuki DR200SE motorcycles and a specifically chosen load-out of complementary gear. The strategy he fashioned was for his daughter and a family friend in the area to, at the first sign of major trouble, hitch the motorcycle trailer and start heading west. If the catastrophe subsided quickly – no problem – return to school, but err on the side of getting out of Dodge.

Motorcycles aren't a perfect solution, but they do provide a number of significant advantages. First, they're efficient, particularly the small ones. Ross found that a 200cc engine got nearly 70 miles to the gallon. The combination of the long distance his daughter would have to cover and a likely shortage of gas made choosing a smaller engine a smart choice. In most cases, the next larger size of bike managed considerably fewer miles per gallon and required a larger fuel tank to achieve an equivalent range. Additionally, the lighter overall weight made it a better fit for her smaller frame.

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He chose the Suzuki DR200SE because it's a simple, versatile platform capable of both highway and off-road travel. The most likely scenario Ross envisioned was an interstate snarl with vehicles jamming the roads, stranding their operators in place, and putting them at risk of assaults and robbery. The motorcycles could be rolled off the trailer and ridden down the median or shoulders, around the traffic, and out of the danger area. While leaving the safety of the automobile would be a major decision, doing so on a bike would be an excellent alternative, with gear staged and packed for just such a contingency.

In any case, the bike beats walking by a long shot. But switching to the motorcycle changes just about every element of travel.

The riders would now be exposed to the elements, more vulnerable to external attack, and unable to rotate sleeping and driving duties. Travel post-crisis would now be as much physical as emotional. The simple act of balancing and steering the motorcycle over time would fatigue them, and interpersonal communication would be a challenge. With these obstacles in mind, Ross began adapting the Suzukis to maximize the range and survivability of their riders.

Motorcycle Outfitters

The first element to be enhanced was range and carrying capacity. That year's model of Suzuki came with a 2.5-gallon tank, which under ideal conditions puts the range at 175 miles. Ross wanted a minimum of 250 miles with a buffer to compensate for the added weight of equipment and fuel.

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To increase the carrying capacity of the Suzukis, Ross installed the Kriega Overlander 60 system. The Overlander 60 is a frame-mounted rack that attaches without welding or cutting. Flexible and modular, the system allows for both pannier packs and fuel. The rack mounts above and behind the rear wheel, but clears both the frame and the exhaust. At 15 liters each, the Kriega packs ride forward of the fuel cans and just above the rear passenger pegs. Because they're below the seat and the rider's center of gravity, they don't significantly impact the handling characteristics of the motorcycle.

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Behind the Kriega panniers, Ross added four 1-gallon RotoPax fuel tanks on either side of the rear wheels. Made of high-impact plastic, these tanks have a modular design that allows them to be mounted individually or stacked on a central mounting peg. The auxiliary tanks add an additional 275 miles of range to the fuel tank, providing nearly one-third of the fuel necessary for the trip – and this is after the automobile is abandoned. Refueling would be a necessity, but it wouldn't be immediate.

As functional add-ons, Ross added hand windshields on the grips and a small windshield. Short of the additional cargo and fuel, the motorcycle is largely stock.

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Kitting the Bike

Deciding on how to divide gear between the rider and the motorcycle was a deliberate process. Ross decided on some redundancy with the kit carried on the rider (see the sidebar), but in the panniers he largely stuck to hard goods, bike support equipment, and items to deal with the changing external environment. For example, in addition to a helmet he staged riding leathers, gloves, hand and toe warmers, as well as dust and gas masks. For quick fixes he added a small tool kit, a knife, multitool, headlamp, and flashlight.

In a small backpack on the back of the bike above the rear fender, he staged field gear such as batteries, a medical kit with manual, a shortwave radio, a solar charger, a JetBoil stove with fuel canisters and a small cook kit, extra cold-weather clothing, and MREs. The intent was to have essential items ready-to-grab and non-essential items ready-to-dump if the motorcycles had to be ditched.

Kitting the Rider

Deciding what kit to carry on the actual rider is a more serious and complicated question. Changing the weight of a rider changes not just the performance of the engine, but also the handling characteristics of the motorcycle. Because the engine is small and chosen for efficiency over power, weight is always a consideration. Ross also reckoned that on-foot bug-out equipment should not require sorting and packing. As such, the rider's backpack load-out closely resembles a hiker going on a backcountry trek.

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While testing options for a personal backpack, it became clear the best option is a full frame backpack with a bombproof waistband. This helps to both secure the pack while operating the motorcycle, but also requires no changes or modifications if the bike has to be ditched and the rider has to continue on foot.

His daughter chose the REI XT 85 because it had the capacity to accommodate the required gear, and most importantly, it fit her. Ross chose an ultralight tent, fly, and footprint along with a compression sack-reduced sleeping bag and ground pad. To this he also added personal hygiene items, a Platypus water filter, a GPS, more batteries, light binoculars with a chest rig, cash, a pre-charged cell phone, passport or ID, Mechanix gloves, and a compass. The backpack was configured for his daughter and her companion. His daughter is an experienced backpacker and that definitely dictated some gear choices. So the backpacking gear was more customized than the more universal on-bike gear.

bug-out-bikes-readyman

Armed With a Plan

Ross harbored no illusions about the necessity of carrying a firearm in a situation serious enough to warrant a cross-country bug out. But what to choose and how to stage it required some thought. He concluded an accessible, but semi-concealed waist holster was a must. For his daughter he chose a Glock 19 as she was trained to use it, and it was more likely than most other models to function under all conditions. He settled on 200 rounds of ammo divided between six magazines and a spare box stored on the bike.

Ross wasn't convinced having only a handgun was the answer, so he added a folding stock AK. Though the AK's reliability is well known, Ross had additional reasons for choosing it. Traveling through potentially hostile territory on a motorcycle is no one's first choice, particularly because the rider has very little protection. Gone are the luxuries of body metal, steel frames, and the deflection of interior glass – and only mobility remains. The saddle of a motorcycle is not the place to initiate offensive action. Rather, Ross's strategy for travel and survival was to stay low profile, and avoid populated areas, danger, and conflict. While there are many short-barreled AR's out there, the buffer spring limits the degree to which they can be shortened. The AK can be folded and carried discreetly in the backpack, but drawn only during times of prolonged danger or for pulling security during bivouacs. Ross settled on 300 rounds with two pre-loaded magazines.

bug-out-bikes-tent

But the best arms and gear in the world mean very little without a well-contemplated and clearly understood plan for travel. Ross approached the route planning in a deductive and rational manner. His first step was to simply pull a Google map of the quickest route between his daughter's college and his home. His second step was to overlay population centers along the route. Ross planned routes around the densest counties and tried to avoid the major population centers by 250 miles whenever possible. This is much tougher in the East where cities and towns are both larger and more tightly clustered.

“It's tricky,” says Ross. “There are small slots between populated areas and sometimes you have to go near or though places you wouldn't want to. Things get better west of the Mississippi, and particularly once you get past Des Moines.” He then acquired detailed state maps of the route and planned primary, secondary, and alternate routes.

The plan for his daughter and her friend was to travel mostly at night. Their mindset would be one of escape and evasion. As two young people in unfamiliar territory, there is nothing to be gained from being spotted by anyone at any time. Though they could travel by headlamp or the motorcycle's headlight at night, they also were equipped with PVS-7 night vision goggles. Roadblocks would be avoided at all costs and stops in the open or during daylight would only be for critical items like fuel, water, and food.

Are motorcycles a great plan for a young family of five? Probably not. But if you have family, friends, or college students who could get caught hundreds or thousands of miles from hearth and home, this layered strategy of bugging out could be the difference between life or death. And, using some of the strategies Ross employed, motorcycles can be an excellent fallback when automobile travel becomes unworkable.

bug-out-bikes-suzuki-bikes

Bug-Out Bike Gear List

The gear you select is essential in any preparedness situation, but it's especially true when you're trying to bug out on a motorcycle that's traveling at 75 mph or faster without a large windshield or steel doors. If your GTFO vehicle is a dual-sport bike, consider the following setup that Jayson Ross has established for his daughter's motorcycle.

On the Rider
– Backpacking backpack
– Tent with rain fly and footprint
– Rip-stop ponch (camouflage color)
– Sleeping bag (in compression sack)
– Small sleeping pad
– Light binoculars with harness
– Passport and/or ID
– $400 in cash
– Cellphone
– 1 Nalgene Water Bottle (full)
– Platypus Gravity Water Purifier
– Gortex Rain Parka
– Sunglasses
– Wind-up watch
– Toothbrush and toothpaste
– Tampons (if necessary)
– Single Kleenex pack (doubles as toilet paper)
– ChapStick
– Mechanix Gloves
– GPS and fresh batteries
– Maps
– Compass
– Fire-starter(s) and Bic lighters
– Sidearm
– Sidearm holster with magazine pouches
– 6 sidearm magazines
– 200 rounds of sidearm ammunition
– Folding AK-47
– 2 AK-47 magazines (loaded)
– 300 rounds of 7.62x39mm ammunition
– Fixed-blade knife
– Knife sharpener
– Leatherman multitool
– Petzel headlamp
– Tactical flashlight
– PVS-7 night vision google

In a Pack on the Bike
– Trauma medical kit with manual
– 2 Motorola two-way radios with batteries
– 8 extra AA Batteries
– 8 extra AAA Batteries
– Bath wipes
– 100-percent DEET insect repellant
– Travel Bible, playing cards
– 8 Kleenex packs
– Shortwave radio with line amplifier (if possible)
– Solar charger for shortwave and other devices
– JetBoil Stove and 2 canisters (one unopened)
– Compact cooking kit
– 1 Wool sweater
– 2 Pair of warm wool socks
– 1 Set of Polartec thermal underwear (top and bottom)
– 1 Long-sleeve shirt
– 1 Fleece jacket
– 1 Wool pants
– Thin beanie
– Neoprene facemask
– Hiking boots
– 8 MREs

On the Bike
– Suzuki 2013 DR200SE
– 4 RotoPax fuel cans and mounting hardware
– Kriega Overlander 60 Pannier Sets
– Happy Trails SU Side Rack (modified)
– Small windshields
– Hand windshields
– 2 Nalgene bottles
– Siphon
– Israeli gas mask
– Gas mask cartridges
– Leathers
– Helmet
– Motorcycle gloves
– N95 dust masks
– Battery trickle charger (to keep bike battery topped off/storage)
– 10 pairs of hand warmers/toe warmers
– Tool Kit (ratchet and screwdriver set)

Gas Sippers

A variety of options exist for nimble, efficient, and generally affordable alternatives when a single track is the only option. Here are some dual-sport motorcycles that could fit the bill.

bug-out-bikes-suzuki-dr200se

Suzuki DR200SE
Engine 199cc, four-stroke
Fuel Tank 3.4 gallons
Miles Per Gallon 68
Range 231 miles
Weight 278 pounds
MSRP $4,199

bug-out-bikes-yamaha-tw-200

Yamaha TW-200
Engine 196cc, four-stroke
Fuel Tank 1.8 gallons
Miles Per Gallon 78
Range 140 miles
Weight 278 pounds
MSRP $4,590

bug-out-bikes-kawasaki-klx-250s

Kawasaki KLX-250s
Engine 249cc, four-stroke
Fuel Tank 2 gallons
Miles Per Gallon 70
Range 140 miles
Weight 298 pounds
MSRP $5,099

bug-out-bikes-honda-crf250l

Honda CRF250L
Engine 249cc, four-stroke
Fuel Tank 2 gallons
Miles Per Gallon 73
Range 146 miles
Weight 320 pounds
MSRP $4,999


Straight to the Point

You've spent lots of time and plenty of greenbacks planning and preparing for TEOTWAWKI. You have your evacuation route planned. Your bug-out vehicle is a well-oiled machine. And your go-bag is full of all the good stuff only a survival Santa could bring. But Murphy and his damn law can pop up at anytime, anywhere — if anything can go wrong, it will, and that includes your self-defense plans.

Every prepper probably has a knife, hatchet, or a firearm at the ready — or perhaps all three simultaneously. But what if you're caught bugging out empty-handed? Say a fire tore through your neighborhood, and you had to bail with nothing but the pajamas you were wearing. Or maybe the first part of your bug-out plan went as you expected, but you stopped to take a leak by a tree and a band of marauders ambush you? Perhaps it doesn't have to be a catastrophic situation. It could just be you walking to the corner store and getting jumped by a couple of hoodlums. As the old saying goes, “No plan survives first contact with the enemy.” At that point, you'll have to survive using nothing but your skills and the tools you were born with.

No worries. Just put a little (warning, puns ahead!) elbow grease into it. With a little knowhow, that knobby little joint in the middle of your arm can save your hide when used as a defensive shield, a devastating hammer, and a leveraging tool. Read on and learn how three different masters, representing three different fighting arts, reveal all you need to know about making a little “elbow room” when SHTF.

Elbow Striking 101

To learn how to throw a proper elbow strike, OFFGRID went straight to the elbow-striking expert, Sam Phimsoutham of World Team USA in San Francisco, California. Even though he's knocked out and pummeled many opponents with his fists and feet as an ajarn (or master) of Muay Thai (AKA Thai boxing), Phimsoutham doesn't suggest using either as your primary empty-hand weapon. “On the street, you want to use palm and elbow strikes so you don't break your hand,” says Phimsoutham, who has trained more than 40 Muay Thai and MMA champions. Indeed, when the grid goes down, getting medical attention for a fracture may prove difficult.

Using your elbow as a weapon is not rocket science, nor should it be. Phimsoutham shows us two effective elbow strikes to be used when your life is on the line.

Vertical Elbow

How: This strike is thrown upward like an uppercut, but with your arm bent all the way so that you connect with your elbow instead of your fist:

elbow-strikes-vertical-elbow

– Start in a good stance. Your feet should be shoulder-width apart with your dominant leg slightly behind you (if you're right-handed, step back with your right leg). Place your hands up with your palms out to protect your head.

elbow-strikes-vertical-elbow

elbow-strikes-vertical-elbow

– Raise your elbow straight up with your palm traveling along the side of your head, like you're combing your hair. Keep your other hand up by your temple to protect your head.

– Elbows are lonely creatures, so practice throwing multiple strikes on both sides.

Why: The vertical elbow strike is an instinctive motion. Plus, it doubles in protecting your cranium because it blends well with the natural flinch response. From a distance, you can use your elbow as a shield.

If you're close enough, your elbow will cause damage to your opponent's face, head, or neck. “This strike works best when a fighter comes at you aggressively,” Phimsouthamsays. The harder they come charging in, the more damage they will do to themselves — talk about karma at work.

Horizontal Elbow

How: Think of this strike as if you're throwing a hook punch, or pretending to be Dracula pulling on his cape:

– Just like with the vertical elbow, you want to start in a good stance: feet shoulder-width apart and hands up.

elbow-strikes-horizontal-elbow

– Bring your elbow up to your shoulder, keeping your forearm level to the ground. Bring your elbow across your chest, like throwing a hook punch in boxing. (Your right elbow makes a straight line from your right shoulder to your left and your left elbow goes from left to right.)

elbow-strikes-horizontal-elbow

– Keep your other hand up by your temple to protect your head.

– For extra power tighten your abs, rotate your hips, and pivot your same-side foot (if you're using your right elbow, pivot with your right foot with the heel off the ground like you're grinding a cigarette butt).

– Practice throwing multiple elbow strikes.

Why: When thrown correctly and utilizing your core, the horizontal elbow strike can knock someone out or cut them open. “One of my champions opened a cut on his opponent that took 20 stitches to close,” Phimsoutham says. “During a disaster, you want to end the fight fast so, for maximum trauma, use your entire body weight.”

Target Anatomy

For both vertical and horizontal elbow strikes, you want to use the pointy part of your elbow (the olecranon process of the ulna for you studious types) and up to 2 inches of bone below that. This will allow you to create more pressure (and damage) per square inch.

-elbow-strikes-chest-strike

elbow-strikes-chest-strike

In fact, your elbow is the strongest area of your arm and one of the strongest parts of your anatomy. This makes it a durable blunt instrument against all manner of targets. “Aim for the chin, bridge of the nose, neck, temple, behind the neck,” Phimsoutham says. “Or anywhere on the spine.” Attacking the back of the neck and the spine can be fatal blows, but desperate times may call for desperate measures — particularly if you have loved ones depending on you for their safety.

However, your elbow, like all tools, has limitations. “You must be in the correct range,” says Phimsoutham, who has been teaching Muay Thai for over 20 years. “Use your elbow when you can grab the guy. If you cannot grab, don't throw the elbow — you're too far. You use your elbow in close quarters only.”

“A good time to throw the elbow strike is when they can't see it coming. For example, after you off balance them in the clinch,” Phimsoutham says. “It works even better when you set it up with a low technique, like a knee to the groin.”

Firing your elbow, like firing a gun, requires training to become proficient. Training will help develop technique, coordination, power, and proper distancing.

Fine Arts

As a prepared individual, you'll want to be proficient with at least one empty-hand self-defense system. But where to start? There are thousands of methods, from military combatives and reality-based programs to traditional Asian fighting styles and modern mixed martial arts (MMA). Below is a brief overview of the three we've highlighted in this article.

Muay Thai: The Art of Eight Limbs

Muay Thai (or Thai boxing) is often referred to as the art and science of eight limbs because competitors use their fists, feet, knees, and — yes, you guessed it — elbows to beat each other into a bloody pulp. Originally from Thailand, MMA competitors have known for many years that this “science” is a must learn for effective stand-up fighting in the cage. The elbow techniques of Muay Thai are perfect for preppers because they are simple to learn, easy to implement, and traumatic in their usage.

Krav Maga: Pressure Tested

It used to be that everyone was kung-fu fighting. Now everyone is doing Krav Maga, from German police officers to Jennifer Lopez in the film Enough. And for good reason: Krav Maga has been battle tested, over and over again, by the Israeli Defense Forces in the war-torn Middle East. Created in the 1940s by Imi Lichtenfeld, this system incorporates elements of boxing, Muay Thai, Combat Sambo, and wrestling. Translated as “contact combat,” Krav Maga is known for its instinctive body movements, simple principles, and devastating techniques.

Pentjak Silat: Minimum Movement, Maximum Devastation

Pentjak Silat, or the study of movement and combat, is one of the most effective styles you have never heard of. Because of silat's effectiveness, many gurus (teachers) aren't open to teaching this system to the public — hence silat's lack of popularity in the USA. Pentjak Silat is a general term for hundreds of different styles from Indonesia. These deadly styles are a unique blend of Chinese, Indian, and Indonesian martial arts forged from centuries of jungle warfare. Represented in this article is Pentjak Silat Anak Serak, identified by its bladed weapons, close-range fighting, sophisticated angles, extreme leveraging, and effortless sweeps.

What If…?

“Using the elbow is one of the most underrated weapons out there,” says Edgar Gabriel, a certified Krav Maga instructor who co-founded the Academy of Combative Defense and Fitness in San Jose, California. “Elbow strikes are instinctive movements and are used to induce blunt trauma and break or cut open the skin. These weapons are fight-enders.”

Because of this, Gabriel often teaches how to respond with elbows in these three specific situations:

Baseball Bat Swing: Found in nearly every garage in North America, a baseball bat is another nasty weapon you may encounter when facing looters and troublemakers. This technique can also be applied against any object of similar length, such as a stick, 2×4, or pipe.

elbow-strikes-baseball-bat-counter

– If you see someone holding a big green, zombie-busting baseball bat, get your hands up to protect your noggin like Gabriel does here.

elbow-strikes-baseball-bat-counter

– The attacker isn't raising that bat to stretch, he's trying to hit a homer with your head. Immediately step inside the arc of the bat. Block at their arm with your left arm, keeping your right hand high, just in case. With any luck, your attacker may hyperextend their elbow and drop the bat right there.

elbow-strikes-baseball-bat-counter

– No, such luck? Use your left arm to cup their elbow (controlling the bat wielding arm) and unleash all the nasty elbow strikes you've been drilling.

Rear Bear Hug: This attack is often used by multiple thugs to hold you in place so their buddies can finish you off. It's also a common move used by rapists and kidnappers to move you to another location before inflicting further pain and other evil acts.

elbow-strikes-rear-bear-hug-counter

– Bend your knees and settle your weight so the attacker cannot lift you and throw you around like a rag doll.

elbow-strikes-rear-bear-hug-counter

– Strike with a rear, upward elbow strike to the attacker's neck, face, or jaw.

elbow-strikes-rear-bear-hug-counter

elbow-strikes-rear-bear-hug-counter

– Repeat your rear, upward elbow strikes on both sides (right and left) as often as necessary until you make enough space to turn, facing your attacker for more horizontal elbow strikes to their chin.

Knife Threat: It doesn't take society to be ripped apart at the seams for a thug to be armed. Blades are often the weapon of choice for the unprepared and the desperate because they're cheap, commonplace, and concealable.

elbow-strikes-knife-counter

– In this instance, the attacker is using the knife to intimidate you from behind, but this technique will work just as well for a stab to the gut.

elbow-strikes-knife-counter

– Turn to face your attacker using your forearm to deflect the knife off line and away from your body.

elbow-strikes-knife-counter

– Using the same arm, tightly cup the attacker's elbow for control.

elbow-strikes-knife-counter

– Violently smash your elbow into the attackers chin. Don't be a Scrooge; deliver as many horizontal elbow strikes as necessary to stun your attacker until you can get away.

Getting Tooled

All preppers look at their tools as multifunctional items. For example, your knife can be used for self-defense, to skin an animal, for batoning tree limbs, and for a hundred other things. Your elbow, too, has multiple uses and can function as a shield, a wrecking ball, or a lever, depending on the situation.

One expert on the versatility of the elbow is Dr. Andre KnustGraichen, a master of the Indonesian martial art called Pentjak Silat.

“The elbow is conditioned and trained for striking already,” says KnustGraichen, who serves as CEO of Pentjak Silat USA, the American chapter of the International Pencak Silat Federation. “You will also notice your elbow has very little nerve endings.” That means your elbow can be used as a destructive barrier, because it is solid compared to the small bones in the hand. By guiding the opponent's punch into your elbow, it's like making them punch a brick wall.

Wrecking Ball and Lever Versus a Punch: After breaking the attacker's hand, you can immediately turn your elbow into a leveraging tool. Your elbows can produce a large amount of force and leverage because they are closer to your core than your hands. Also, you can use your elbow as a lever to break an attacker's elbow or redirect a strike in a pinch.

elbow-strikes-wrecking-ball-and-lever-versus-a-punch

– The good doctor shows how to guide a left punch right into a left horizontal elbow. Because the elbow is larger than the carpals of the hand, the elbow will win out every time. The result is a broken hand for the bad guy. The harder they strike, the worse their injury — karma strikes again.

elbow-strikes-wrecking-ball-and-lever-versus-a-punch

– KnustGraichen quickly follows up with a left-handed wrist grab and a right vertical elbow motion as a lever, to hyperextend his assailant's elbow, ending the confrontation.

Wrecking Ball and Lever Versus Machete Attack: The brilliance of Pentjak Silat is using one principle for many applications. Here, KnustGraichen, who has mastered multiple systems of silat, demonstrates the same principles of the wrecking ball and lever against a back-hand machete attack.

elbow-strikes-wrecking-ball-and-lever-versus-a-machete

– This time Dr. KnustGraichen guides the back-hand machete slash into his right vertical elbow strike. This strike may fracture the small, delicate bones in his assailant's hand and end the fight right there.

elbow-strikes-wrecking-ball-and-lever-versus-a-machete

– If the enemy still has the machete, Andre performs a right-handed wrist grab and simultaneously executes a left vertical elbow motion to dislocate the elbow. With his attacker injured, KnustGraichen can choose to disarm his attacker or end the fight with more blows.

Conclusion

By definition, a prepper is always preparing. Preparing to protect yourself and your family with or without weapons is all part of the plan. It's not unlike making a fire. While a lighter and fuel is ideal, any Boy Scout will also know how to spark a flame using nothing but his skills and his ability to adapt to his surroundings.

And just like making fire out of two branches and some brush, the time to practice is not during a crisis. With proper training, your elbows can be used as effective self-defense weapons when you have no other choice. Practice your elbow strikes, and eventually learn to use every part of your body as a weapon. This way if your primary, secondary, and tertiary weapons go off-line or aren't immediately available, it won't be the “end of the world” because you can simply roll up your sleeves and use your elbows.

Drill It to Kill It

Bruce Lee once said, “When you're talking about fighting, as it is, with no rules, well then, baby, you'd better train every part of your body!” Although elbows are just a small part of your body, they can be deadly weapons if trained properly. Like making shelter, creating fire, or shooting a gun, forging your elbows into effective weapons takes practice. Here are some simple drills to train your new tool.

Shadowbox

What: Go through the motions to develop proper form

Required Equipment: Mirror

How: Standing in front of the mirror, practice your upward elbow and horizontal elbows trying to keep proper form

Key Points:

– Practice both right and left sides.
– Keep your guard up.
– Tighten your abs and use your core to increase power.
– Start slow to maintain proper form and eventually speed up.
– Set a timer and do one round of two or three minutes.

Heavy Bag Work

elbow-strikes-heavy-bag-work

What: Hit the heavy bag to develop your power and distancing

Required Equipment: Heavy bag

How: Stand in front of the heavy bag and unleash the fury that is the apocalypse

Key Points:

– Maintain form. Just because we're hitting something doesn't mean we can get sloppy.
– Start slow and increase speed as you warm up and get comfortable, eventually striking with full speed and power.
– Set a timer and do one round of two or three minutes.

Situational Training

elbow-strikes-situational-training

What: Practice applying techniques in common scenarios

Required Equipment: Partner, training tools

How: Have your partner slowly attack you and practice your stuff. In a SHTF scenario, you will most likely be attacked by a gun, empty hands (a punch or grab, most likely), a blade (knife, machete, or axe), a stick of some sort (like a bat). Train for all four scenarios.

Key Points:

– Partner training is a must for proper distancing and realistic responses.
– Safety first: Make sure to use training weapons. Start slow and increase speed as you become more familiar with the techniques.
– Do sets of three and switch roles.
– The techniques in this article are a good place to start, but ultimately there is no substitute for proper instruction from a qualified, reputable teacher.

Sources
Edgar Gabriel, Academy of Combative Defense and Fitness
www.academydefensefitness.com
Andre KnustGraichen, Pentjak Silat USA
www.pukulanpentjaksilatserak.com
Sam Phimsoutham, World Team USA
www.worldteamusa.com


Scavenger Chop Shop

In a long-term survival scenario, scavenging is essential. Sure, many of us have go-bags, or even stockpiles of emergency supplies, for when SHTF. However, sooner or later, those supplies will be used up, lost, or stolen, even for the most prepared among us. It's inevitable. So, where do you turn when your supplies are dwindling? You could spend valuable time scavenging buildings that have already been picked clean of resources, or you could look for something that literally surrounds us in everyday life – the automobile.

Why Vehicles?

There are over 250 million cars and trucks in the United States alone, and each one is packed with useful survival items that are easily overlooked. From obvious resources, like gasoline, to more obscure parts, every abandoned vehicle you see is a veritable treasure trove of resources. You certainly don't have to be a mechanic to find them, and oftentimes, you don't even need any tools – you just need to know where to look. And that's where this guide comes in.

General Guidelines

Before we get started, let's go over some general guidelines:

  • Choosing the Right Vehicle: Almost every make and model will have something you can scavenge, but everyday economy cars will generally be easier to work with and disassemble. Expensive luxury or sports cars may be less user-friendly and require specialized tools, making life difficult if all you've got is a multitool. However, keep an eye out for commercial vehicles, such as vans and work trucks, as they may contain items a passenger car wouldn't.
  • Check for Operable Condition: Look for keys, and see if the car is in operable condition. There's no sense in tearing apart a car you could easily use for transportation.

Note: For demonstration purposes, we'll be scavenging from a common 2008 model four-cylinder Japanese sedan. However, virtually any type of passenger car or truck will do.

Warning: The techniques described in this article are for illustrative purposes only. We need not remind you that it's illegal to scavenge from cars and junkyards you don't own.

For more useful survival hacks and tips, check out our book OFFGRID Presents: DIY Survival, on sale now.

Gasoline

  • Scavenger Level: Moderate
  • Tools Required: Small-diameter rubber hose or a strong piercing instrument
  • Uses:
    • Replenishing fuel supply for functional vehicles
    • Starting fires
    • Solvent to remove grease and grime
    • Barter good

Car with gas cap open.Above: The gas cap is easily found on most vehicles, but may be easier to access on older models.

 

If you don't already know why gasoline would be like mana from heaven in a doomsday situation, you're better off putting down this magazine and going to www.darwinawards.com. If you have a functional vehicle, you'll want to replenish its fuel supply. Also, gasoline burns, and it does so very efficiently. Naturally, it can be used for starting fires, as an excellent solvent to remove grease and grime, and as a highly sought-after barter good.

Illustration of a rubber hose and and hand awl for piercing.

Above: Rubber hose and something to pierce with, such as an awl, can be easily sourced from a hardware store.

How to Scavenge:

Due to its obvious value, gasoline is often surprisingly difficult to scavenge. Most new vehicles have a screen or valve that prevents the use of a hose to siphon from the gas tank filler neck. If you can find a vehicle from the mid-1990s or earlier, it may lack this security feature – but you'll need to pry the metal flapper near the opening out of the way with a screwdriver or stick before inserting the hose. If siphoning using your mouth, you also run the risk of serious injury from gasoline inhalation.

Assuming you don't care about damaging the vehicle, a much better option is to look underneath the car, find the fuel tank, and bore or punch a hole using a knife, awl, cordless drill, or other sharp instrument. Modern cars with plastic fuel tanks are ideal for this purpose, although it still can be done on older metal fuel tanks. Work with care, as you don't want to cause a spark. Note that you might need to punch a second air hole to help the gas flow more easily – a la those 2.5-gallon water jugs you get at the grocery store.

Jack and Tools

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: None
  • Uses:
    • Removing the car's wheels and tires
    • Steel lug wrench as a blunt instrument, weapon, or pry bar

Someone showing where to find recovery tools in the trunk of a vehicle.Above: Many vehicle models store their recovery tools under the carpet in the trunk.

Almost every passenger car includes a jack and tools for changing a flat tire. Primarily, they can be used to remove the car's wheels and tires – we'll get into why that's useful in the next step. Secondly, the steel lug wrench found in most cars functions as an excellent blunt instrument, weapon, or prybar. It's definitely worth holding on to.

Someone showing where to find the lug wrench in the back of a vehcle.Above: Vehicle recovery kits typically include everything you'd need to remove a tire.

How to Scavenge:

Most cars store these tools underneath the trunk floor panel, although they may also be found underneath or behind the seats in some vehicles. The jack is typically also located near the tools. If you don't spot it immediately, check for storage compartments or removable panels in the trunk.

Tires

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: None for spare tire; jack and tools for other four
  • Uses:
    • Burning for signaling rescue with acrid black smoke

Someone scavenging a spare tire from the trunk of a vehicle.

Above: A spare tire has many uses beyond replacing a flat.

Ever see a tire burn? It creates acrid black smoke that's visible for miles. If you're in a survival scenario where rescue is possible, burning car tires is a great way to alert rescuers of your position.

Note: Always remember to let the air out of tires before burning, or they may burst and scatter or put out your fire.

Illustration of a jack stand and recovery tools.Above: With the use of a jack stand, a tire can be removed even if a spare is unavailable.

How to Scavenge:

Start by looking for a spare tire, as most vehicles have one inside or underneath the trunk. If the vehicle is missing the spare tire, or you need more tires for a larger fire, you can use the jack and tools (see No. 2) to remove the other four wheels and tires. One caveat: Removing a tire from its wheel is quite a chore with handtools, so hopefully you needn't roll them too far to where you plan to use them.

Carpet and Upholstery

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: Knife
  • Uses:
    • Warm bedding, blankets, or shelter against the elements

Photo of scavenged upholstery mats from a vehicle.

Above: Carpet, even in small amounts, has several uses.

Thick, soft, insulated fabric is always handy to have in a survival scenario. It can be used for warm bedding, blankets, or shelter against the elements.

Illustration of a box cutter.Above: You may need the help of a blade to completely remove upholstery from a vehicle.

How to Scavenge:

Look for trunk liners, floor mats, and seat covers that are easily removable. If these aren't available, you may have to cut away the upholstery. The headliner is a great place to start, as it's usually one large piece of fabric.

Warning: If you're stranded in a cold-weather environment, you might be tempted to use the upholstery as kindling for a fire. Be cautious. They usually contain chemicals that turn into toxic fumes once burned.

Mirrors

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: Screwdriver or prying instrument
  • Uses:
    • Rescue signaling at long distances
    • Starting fires
    • Assisting with personal hygiene

A scavenged review mirror.

Above: The reflective properties of a scavenged mirror can be used for signalling and self-care.

Automotive mirrors are large and high-quality, perfect for rescue signaling at long distances. They can also be used to start fires or to assist with personal hygiene (e.g. check for ticks, inspect an injury, or examine debris in your eye).

Illustration of a flathead screwdriver.

Above: Most mirrors will require a prying tool or screwdriver to remove.

How to Scavenge:

Exterior mirrors can be carefully pried out of their housings with a knife or flat screwdriver. Interior mirrors can be unscrewed from the roof, or unclipped from their windshield mounts with relative ease.

Battery

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: Wrench or pliers, jumper cables (optional)
  • Uses:
    • Jump-starting other cars
    • Starting fires
    • Powering lights or AC electronics with a power inverter

Photo of jumper cables being held above a car battery.

Above: Jumper cables aren't just for getting your car moving again.

Car batteries provide strong, long-lasting 12-volt electrical power. When combined with jumper cables or two lengths of large-gauge wire, they can be used to jump-start other cars, start fires, or even directly power lights (we'll cover that part later). If you're able to find a power inverter elsewhere, you can also use a car battery to power a myriad of AC electronics, such as mobile phones or radios.

car-scavanging-jumper-cables

Above: The voltage of a car battery can create sparks, but care must be taken to the risk of electric shock.

car-scavanging-jumper-cable-wrench

Above: These common recovery tools can usually be found somewhere in the vehicle.

Car batteries provide strong, long-lasting 12-volt electrical power. When combined with jumper cables or two lengths of large-gauge wire, they can be used to jump-start other cars, start fires, or even directly power lights (we'll cover that part later). If you're able to find a power inverter elsewhere, you can also use a car battery to power a myriad of AC electronics, such as mobile phones or radios.

How to Scavenge:

Pop the hood and take a look. Most of the time, the battery location will be obvious. Some cars hide the battery under a removable plastic cover, and a few luxury cars and sports cars relocate the battery to the trunk (where they may be hidden underneath trim pieces). If you've got jumper cables, you can connect them directly to the battery and touch them together for instant fire-starting sparks. If you want to take the battery with you, you'll need to disconnect the tie-down bar and terminal wires, usually with a small wrench or pliers. They are heavy, though.

Lights

  • Scavenger Level: Moderate
  • Tools Required: Car battery, wire, wrench, or pliers (if removing entire light assembly)
  • Uses:
    • Providing instant, bright light

Photo of an exposed headlight bulb.

Above: Bulbs can be accessed either through an open hood, or by removing the headlight casing.

Automotive lights can be wired directly to a 12-volt battery for instant, bright light. An entire headlight assembly can be removed for focused light, or the bulbs themselves can be used to illuminate a wide area.

Illustration of a car battery, wire, needle nose pliers and adjustable crescent wrench.

Above: Removing a headlight requires a little more effort, and possibly some extra tools.

How to Scavenge:

If you have a set of wrenches or needle-nose pliers, it may be possible to unbolt and remove an entire headlight with bulbs, but it'll take some time. If not, you can reach behind most car headlights and unclip or twist the bulbs to pull them out of the housings. Then cut two pieces of wire from the engine bay, and connect the positive and negative battery terminals to the corresponding bulb terminals for instant light.

Spark Plugs

  • Scavenger Level: Hard
  • Tools Required: Tool kit with ratcheting wrench, sockets, and extensions
  • Uses:
    • Glass-breaking tool

Photo of spark plug being removed from an engine block.

Above: Spark plugs are much easier to access on older vehicle models.

If you've got spark plugs, you've got a quick and easy glass-breaking tool. Just smash the white ceramic section on the plug with a blunt instrument, collect the larger chunks of ceramic, and you've got projectiles that can shatter glass panels instantly from a distance. It's much more effective and safe than trying to kick in a window or smashing a glass partition with a valuable tool (you wouldn't want to use, say, your flashlight as a hammer and risk damaging it, especially in a SHTF scenario).

Photo of two spark plugs side by side, one of them with broken ceramic.

Above: The ceramic insulator of spark plugs can be broken and used as shrapnel.

Photo of broken chunks of spark plug ceramic.

Above: Larger pieces of ceramic will be the most useful.

Illustration of a socket wrench and socket set.

Above: Spark plugs can be removed with deep sockets and a socket wrench.

How to Scavenge:

The downside to spark plugs is that they're quite difficult to remove, even with basic tools. However, if you've got a standard hardware store tool kit with a ratcheting wrench, sockets, and extensions, it's doable. Our example car is a four-cylinder with coil-on-plug ignition, the most common style for cars newer than the mid-1990s. On top of the engine, one 8mm bolt is removed to take out a coil pack, and a 5/8-inch deep socket is used to remove the spark plug itself. Then just wrap the plug in a cloth and smash it to collect the ceramic pieces.

Seatbelts

  • Scavenger Level: Easy
  • Tools Required: Knife or cord-cutting tool
  • Uses:
    • Excellent cordage

Photo of someone using a seatbelt cutter to remove a section of seat belt.

Above: A knife, scissors or dedicated seatbelt cutter can be used to remove a section of belt.

Seatbelts are constructed of extremely strong, durable nylon, making for excellent cordage. If you need to tie something down, look no further.

Illustration of a folding knife.

Above: Sharp cutting tools are necessary to get through the nylon of a seat belt.

How to Scavenge:

Simply pull to unravel the seatbelt from its reel, then cut. You can always use a knife, but we jumped at the chance to finally use the nifty seatbelt cutter on our multitool.

Motor Oil

  • Scavenger Level: Moderate
  • Tools Required: Jack and tools, wrench, empty bottle or rag
  • Uses:
    • Lubricant for mechanical items
    • Providing heat in an oil-burning furnace

Photo of a man holding a rag with engine oil displayed on it.

Above: Oil is a petroleum product, which means it has both protective and flammable properties.

Motor oil is an excellent lubricant for mechanical items – including your firearms – hence its use inside car engines. It can also be used in an oil-burning furnace to provide heat (there are plenty of guides available online).

Illustration of recovery tools, and a gallon jug.

Above: Since it's in the engine, getting to the oil will require tools and a basic understanding of where to access it.

How to Scavenge:

For most passenger cars, you'll need to jack up the vehicle, although some pickups have enough ground clearance for you to crawl underneath. Remove the oil drain bolt with a wrench and drain some oil onto a rag or into a bottle.

Scavenge it Clean

When scavenging from a vehicle, always check the glovebox, center console, and other storage compartments for miscellaneous items. You might be surprised by what you'll find – bottled water, medications, first-aid kits, hand sanitizer, flashlights, lighters, pens and paper, tools, and more. In addition, vehicles have a lot of glass, wiring, and rubber hoses to be salvaged. You might even be able to use the vehicle itself as a temporary shelter – or disconnect and use the hood and trunk lids as roofing or sleds. Car parts and accessories have many uses beyond what they were built for, so your adaptation will be limited only by your creativity and ingenuity.

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.


OFFGRID 411 – Weather Fatalities

There are certain forces of nature we have no control over, such as the pull of gravity or the excruciatingly long lines at the DMV. Another uncontrollable factor that affects our lives is the weather and the potential for weather fatalities. When Mother Nature's in a foul mood, conditions can get downright deadly.

With rain and harsh weather being one of the prevalent themes this issue, we decided to take a closer look at the U.S. Natural Hazard Statistics. The National Weather Service collects this data by tracking fatalities in the United States caused by weather in nine different categories, including tornadoes and hurricanes. It also records fatalities, injuries, and other damage caused by weather-related hazards.

Making plans and preparations on how best to deal with the weather can keep you and your loved ones safe. Looking at how many people have lost their lives due to meteorological conditions serves as a reminder to take the forecasts seriously.

weather-fatalities

Just by taking a quick glance at the graph above, you can see which types of weather can play a role in meeting your maker. The top three contenders over nine years (2004-2013) racking up the highest mortality rate are heat tornados, hurricanes, and heat related weather fatalities. Of course, succumbing to the weather depends on your present location, but it helps to highlight that the forces of nature are not to be ignored.

There are plenty of ways you can prepare for the inevitable harsh weather event, from extreme heat inducing blackouts to frigid blizzard conditions, and anywhere in between. Whichever strategy you decide to use to prepare, it pays to look up the data available in your area. By looking into what you will be most affected by, the safety and well being of you and your loved ones can be better protected.

Sources
National Weather Service – www.weather.gov
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration – www.noaa.gov


Urban Foraging: Food is Everywhere

Warning! This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide on urban foraging. Eating certain plans could lead to serious illness and even death. To learn more, consult with a reputable instructor or trained botanist

Tough times call for tough measures — sometimes, they may even call for a weed — and this is where urban foraging comes in. No we don’t mean the “medicinal” kind. We’re talking about the ones that grow annoyingly al over your lawn. Should the nation fall into an economic collapse and your month-long emergency supply of food becomes depleted, there’s no doubt that you and your family would be in real trouble. In a scenario like that, grocery stores would have long been emptied, and hitting your favorite drive-through would be a thing of the past. Without stores and restaurants, you’d be thrown back to hand-to-mouth subsistence, back to hunting and gathering. But there are few animals you’d want (or be able) to hunt in the city, and do you even know how to forage for plant foods?

Urban Foraging Basics

At first look, foraging can seem scary, mysterious, or even nauseating. Yes, we’re suggesting that you eat the “weeds” from the gutter. Some of those weeds are edible, and some are actually tasty. With some patience, practice, and careful observation, you’ll begin to see wild food along the city streets, in your neighborhood, and especially in the park. Positively ID these plants, prepare them correctly, and you might even like them.

This is a quick list of wild edible plants that can be found almost anywhere, and it can form the foundation of your urban foraging skill set.

acorns

Acorns

What is it: Acorns are the nuts from oak trees (the genus Quercus). All species of oaks produce acorns that are edible to humans, though a few are exceptionally bitter. Look for symmetrical, egg-shaped nuts with a two-part shell. One part is the shell covering the entire nut. The other part is the acorn cap, which only covers part of the inner shell.

Where to find it: Oaks are commonly planted throughout cities and suburbs, as they are strong and resilient shade trees. Native to the Northern Hemisphere, they can be found coast to coast in the USA. Luckily for the forager, oaks also produce a hailstorm of nuts in early autumn.

How to get it: Wait for them to fall, then scoop them up when they’ve piled up in a low spot. You’ll often find them on sidewalks and road surfaces directly beneath oak trees. A broom and dust pan makes quick work of collecting them; so can a square shovel and a bucket.

How to process, prepare, and store it: Acorns do require some processing to eat. Crack them, remove their shells, soak the nut pieces in water, and change the water several times a day. When the nut pieces are no longer bitter, they can be eaten as is, dried and ground into flour, or prepared in many other ways. Store the processed nuts by drying or freezing them. Acorns can still be harvested several months after falling, if the nut meat still looks good and solid. One pound of acorns (depending on the species) can provide almost 2,000 calories.

Possible dangers: Make sure you’ve actually found acorns. Buckeye nuts (genus Aesculus) look similar and are poisonous. Buckeye nuts have an asymmetrical shape, and their outer nutshell covers the entire inner nutshell. Another trick to identify a bad nut is that buckeye trees have opposite branching (most leaves and twigs have a “twin”), while oaks have alternate branching (leaves and twigs grow in a zigzag pattern, like most plants).

chickweed

Chickweed

What is it: Chickweed (Stellaria spp.) is a small herbaceous plant with leaves in opposite pairs and little white flowers that appear to have 10 petals (but it’s just five, each deeply split). Chickweed is a great salad plant.

Where to find it: Widespread in Europe and North America, this plant can be found at the edges of pavement, parks, yards, planters, and almost anywhere. It can be found in full sun or in the shade. It’s surprisingly tough for such a small, tender, and juicy plant.

How to get it: Collect the tender stems (and the leaves along with them) by picking them as you would any other salad plants. They’re tender enough to pinch off what you need.

How to process, prepare, and store it: Wash the plants thoroughly, and eat them as salad or cook them as cooked greens. Fresh chickweed can be stored in the fridge for a few days, but doesn’t keep long. Let it stay alive and unharmed until you’re ready to pick it and use it. Being a salad item, chickweed is low in calories, but it does provide vitamins A and C.

Possible cons: Chickweed can have a mild laxative effect. Also, be cautious of where you go foraging. Cities and counties often spray herbicides and pesticides along roadways, and any chickweed not killed in the process could be contaminated with toxic chemicals.

hanging-pine

Pine

What is it: Pine trees (the genus Pinus) are easily identified by having needles in clusters of two to five — and mature trees can also bear the tell-tale pine cones. Fresh green pine needles, the innermost layer of bark, and the seeds of large-cone species can be used as food.

Where to find it: Pines can be found in a wide range of soils and climates, largely in the Northern Hemisphere. Hit your nearest city park to find them, or a Christmas tree lot in December.

How to get it: Pine needles are the easiest pine part to forage, and they make a surprisingly tasty tea. Just tear them off the live branches. Pine nuts can also be peeled out of larger pine cones. Inner bark (the cambium layer) can be shaved from live wood, though it’s very damaging to the tree.

How to process, prepare, and store it: Use the needles fresh or dried for tea. Rip up a small handful of needles and drop them into a cup of scalding hot water. Let them sit for five minutes, strain, sweeten, and sip. This cup of tea should provide about 500 milligrams of Vitamin C. Don’t boil your tea, or it’ll become bitter and destroy the vitamins. The inner bark from the tree can be scraped from branches and tree trunks, dried, and ground into powder for a flour additive. The pine cones can sometimes be opened near a fire by the heat. These can be eaten as is, or stored in jars until used. One cup of pine nuts has over 900 calories.

Possible dangers: Pine needle tea (consumed regularly) is not recommended for pregnant women — some of the compounds may be abortive. Loblolly pine (Pinus taeda) and ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa) may also have some additional toxins, so these are no longer recommended for tea (for anyone).

dandelion-plant

Dandelion

What is it: Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a lawn-loving weed native to Europe, but it’s also found coast to coast in the USA. They provide edible flowers, leaves, and roots.

Where to find it: This plant can be found anyplace sunny. Dandelion is one of the most common plants to actually grow out of cracks in the sidewalk. It’s widespread in parks and abandoned lots.

How to get it: Use a small shovel to pop the entire plant out of the ground. Cut the sections apart so that you can take advantage of the different uses of its various parts.

How to process, prepare, and store it: Wash the leaves thoroughly, and eat them as a salad or sauté them in oil for a nice cooked green. Fresh flowers only last one day in the fridge, but can be battered and deep fried for amazing fritters. The roots can be washed, dried, roasted, and brewed into a caffeine-free coffee substitute. The roasted roots will last indefinitely in a jar or paper bag. Leaves and other parts are low in calories, but packed with Vitamin A.

Possible cons: None that are inherent. However, because dandelions are so prevalent, be wary of possible contamination from herbicides and pesticides used in certain parts of your city.

maple-extraction

Maple

What is it: Maples are beautiful trees that produce edible seeds in late spring and safe drinking water and sweet syrup in midwinter. Sugar maples and black maples offer the highest sugar levels, but any native maples can be used for sap and syrup.

Where to find it: Used similarly to oaks as shade trees, maples can be found growing along streets, in landscaping, and in yards and parks. Maples are commonly found in the eastern half of the United States and Canada, though they can be grown almost anywhere as a landscaping species.

How to get it: The “helicopter” seeds can be picked up or swept up beneath the trees in late spring. The sap can be tapped in February by drilling a hole into the tree and attaching a container. If you’re picking up seeds in an urban setting, no one usually cares. But if you’re drilling holes in trees and hanging jugs on them, make sure you have permission and that your neighbors understand what you’re doing. “Syruping” doesn’t harm the trees, but it’s very conspicuous and occasionally alarming — what with all the odd containers lying around and the propane tanks to run the outdoor burner for sap cooking. In Illinois, one family of syrup-makers had a SWAT team at their door after neighbors called in about the suspicious “meth lab” activity.

How to process, prepare, and store it: The seeds can be peeled of their helicopter housing, rinsed, and then boiled for 30 minutes to create a unique cooked vegetable. Sap can be collected in buckets or bottles and drunk immediately as a water source. The xylem tissue of the trees provides excellent filtration of ground water. The sap can be boiled and reduced dramatically to yield the familiar maple syrup. You’ll need to boil off roughly 40 gallons of sap to produce just 1 gallon of syrup, but it’s worth it. Real maple syrup is 825 calories per cup — and delicious.

Possible dangers: Don’t use the sap from a maple if it’s milky white in color. This comes from the invasive Norway maple (Acer platanoides), which is toxic.

plantain-plant

Plantain

What is it: This plant is often the sidekick to the ubiquitous dandelion. Plantain (Plantago spp.) is a low-growing herbaceous plant with leaves that bear several heavy parallel veins. There’s no relation to the banana-like fruit in the grocery store, just the same common name. The leaves and seeds are edible.

Where to find it: Lawns, sidewalks, parks, or any other sunny place where dandelions would normally be present.

How to get it: Pick the leaves and strip off the seeds by pulling the stalk through your hand — easy!

How to process, prepare, and store it: The fresh leaves can be chopped up and added to salad or cooked as a cooked vegetable. The cooked leaves also freeze well, and can be dried and rehydrated. The seeds can be dried and stored in a jar or bag. They can be used fresh or dried by grinding them up and stewing as porridge, or by boiling them alongside other grains (like rice). Fresh plantain leaves can also be mashed and applied to cuts, scrapes, rashes, and burns to speed healing. This mashed leaf poultice is even better at relieving the pain of bee stings and venomous insect bites.

Possible dangers: Like the dandelion, the plantain has none in its natural state, but could be affected by herbicides and pesticides.

The Conclusion

Having taught people the art of foraging wild food plants for almost 20 years, I’m still surprised myself at the bounty of wild edibles within city and suburban limits. Flimsy concrete and sticky asphalt can’t hold back the eruptive force of the weeds trying to break free into the sunlight. In urban environments and in the wild, there’s food literally everywhere. You just have to be able to spot it, make sure it really is the right plant, and prepare it properly.

If times ever get so tough that you’re wondering if you can eat the weeds in the sidewalk cracks, we hope you had the foresight to hang onto every copy of OFFGRID. And please pick up one of the edible plant books mentioned in the sidebar. We might not find our favorite dishes out in a post-apocalyptic world, but there’ll still be plenty of food out around.

Common Foraging Mistakes to Avoid

Not every plant wants to be your friend. Poison ivy should be a good enough example of the dangers of the plant kingdom. Just brushing against the plant can cause a severe rash (for those who are allergic to its oils). But this dreaded itch is a mere inconvenience compared to the real harm from ingesting the wrong plant.

Making assumptions: We all know what happens when you assume something. But with foraging, you’re not just making an “ass” out of “u” and “me,” you could kill us both. Assumptions about plant identity can lead to hospital trips — or even a trip to the morgue. If it doesn’t look exactly as it should, don’t assume you know what it is. And don’t eat it.

Eating multiple new plants: In your excitement to try new things, it’s easy to load up a plate with many new plants that you’ve never tried before. Don’t do that. If you’re allergic to one of them or have some other negative reaction, you won’t know which one is the culprit. Rather than play vomit-roulette, try only one new plant per day until you see how your body handles it.

Leading without experience: If you’re in a legit survival situation (or any other situation), don’t let the amateurs pick the wild food. Make certain that experienced foragers are leading the hunt for edibles and inspecting everything that their helpers collect. Of course, people can learn to identify plants fairly quickly, but hunger can make us less keen observers. Just as you wouldn’t send someone out hunting who’s never fired a shot before, make sure someone who knows what they’re doing is running the foraging foray.

Reading Material

Peterson’s Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants by Lee Allen Peterson.  Over 400 plants with detailed drawings, as well as thorough descriptions and usage information.

Edible Wild Plants, A North American Field Guide by Elias and Dykeman.  Over 200 plants, arranged by season with beautiful color photos and solid usage information.

Edible Wild Plants, Wild Foods From Dirt To Plate by John Kallas.  Great book on wild food preparation with excellent pictures of plant parts and growth stages.

Additional Sources

Related Posts


Build the Perfect Post-Apocalypse Micro Cleaning Kit for Your Gat

The enormous ship appeared first in the atmosphere, like a giant cumulonimbus cloud made of alloy. Then when the large transport crafts disengaged from the mother ship and slowly lumbered down toward the surface, nobody quite knew what to think. When the smaller carrier ships launched from the transport ships and landed on the surface, nobody quite knew what to say. When the three-legged aliens with electro-discharge plasma weapons started exiting the ships, nobody knew who to call. And when those weapons started shooting humans and causing them to explode like water balloons, nobody quite knew what to do — except for your friend, Bubba.

Bubba raised his Remington 870 shotgun and fired back with some 00 buckshot, kinda exploding one of them in return. He sent the first clear message to our new visitors: Exploding humans would not be tolerated. From that point on, interstellar diplomacy emanated from the barrel of a gun.

Since that time, the war had settled into a stalemate. The visitors mostly controlled the population centers while the humans surrounded and controlled the backwoods and countryside. While the alien technology was truly awesome, their tactics sucked. The humans were slowly forcing them into tighter and tighter security zones around their ships. Quick hit-and-run attacks, ambushes, and sniping missions were taking a toll on the invaders, but they were also taking a toll on our weapons. Firearms maintenance was difficult at best; there were very little supplies.

Funny thing — when the end of humanity is approaching, everybody remembers to bring guns, magazines, and ammunition. But cleaning supplies? Not so much.

Prepped Cleaning Kit

Regardless if you’re preparing for an alien invasion or a disaster of more terrestrial origins, it’s always ideal to have at least one firearms kit with tools, spare parts, and much-needed cleaner and lubrication. Let’s take a look at putting together a bare-bones cleaning kit that is small and easy to pack.

cleaning-cloth

Cleaning Cloth

Some type of cloth is needed for wiping away dirt, carbon, and debris from your firearm. While just about any piece of cloth will work, standard-colored handkerchiefs work well. They are thin, absorb fluids, and easily fold into flat compact sections. Cut a standard-sized handkerchief in half, wrap it around your BoreSnake, and pack it away. Another option is using custom cut sections of cloth from men’s white undershirts. When selecting cleaning cloths look for materials made from 100-percent cotton. They tend to absorb fluids better than other blends.

clp-cleaners

CLP

Proper firearms maintenance involves the use of several different types of task-specific cleaning solutions, which are generally broken down in three categories: cleaners, lubricants, and preservatives.

Cleaners are solutions specifically designed to dissolve carbon and copper fouling. They are used to clean all surfaces of the firearms and the bore of the barrel. Lubricants are various types of oils that are used to coat the surfaces of metals that contact each other. Lubricants reduce friction and drag between metal components and suspend dirt and fouling in the fluid to reduce its accumulation over long periods of use. Preservatives are liquids that coat the metal parts of the firearms with a thin film of liquid that prevents rust and corrosion from forming due to exposure to the environment. All three are needed to effectively maintain your firearm over long periods of time, but carrying three different bottles of cleaning accessories compromises the idea of a small cleaning kit.

Fortunately, there are products available specifically for multiple cleaning tasks called CLP, named so after the three categories. CLP products such as Break-Free and FIREClean perform all three cleaning functions with only one solution. While the individual solutions most likely offer better performance in their respective categories, CLPs offer good performance across the board. When building a micro cleaning kit, a CLP solution is really the only choice for effectively performing all of your cleaning requirements without weighing down your bug-out bag. An easily packed ½-ounce bottle of CLP, when judiciously used, will last several cleaning sessions.

gun-barrel-cleaning-rod

Cleaning Rod

Conventional bore cleaning tools use a metal rod, either in sections or as a one-piece unit. The end of the rod is threaded for the use of multiple cleaning accessories such as a wire brush for scrubbing the barrel and different diameter barrel jags. Patches are wrapped around the jag to create a seal for pushing fouling out of the bore and for coating the inside of the bore with protective oils. Unfortunately, cleaning rods are bulky to store (even the sectional ones) and are prone to bending and breaking. They also require the use of at least two different detachable accessories, the wire cleaning brush and the bore jag.

A much better option that combines all of these features into one small package is a product by Hoppes called the BoreSnake. It’s a braided nylon cord with small sections of wire bristles implanted in the weave of the cord. There’s a small section of nylon prior to the bristles for the application of cleaning solution and a large section of braided nylon behind the bristles to pull out any debris loosened by the bristles. The BoreSnake effectively replaces the cleaning rod, the wire brush, and the jags in a single braided cord that can be folded very tightly for storage. It’s the centerpiece of any micro cleaning kit.

super-fine-steel-wool-and-toothbrush

The Nice-to-Have Options

While our micro cleaning kit is complete, there are few additional accessories that make our cleaning tasks a bit easier with just a small trade-off in additional packing space. The first is a small section of grade #0000 steel wool (the super-fine grade). It makes the task of scrubbing off hardened carbon fouling (especially on the AR-15 bolt) a much easier chore. The second accessory is a small brush. An old toothbrush with the handle cut down to size is perfect for this task.

Improvised Cleaning Kit

Though small, the aforementioned micro cleaning kit will take you and your firearm far. But what do you do if you didn’t have the wherewithal to build one ahead of time? Let’s look at some options for cleaning our firearms when nothing is available except for our wits.

rope

Bore-Cleaning Alternates

With the proven design of the BoreSnake as our guide, we can creatively build a clone using a length of 550 paracord. Tie several knots into the paracord to match the diameter of the bore. When completed, pull the cord through the chamber and bore to remove any fouling.

Should paracord be unavailable, bootlaces or bungee cords make adequate substitutes. A more creative solution could involve fishing string with a hook small enough to fit through the bore of the firearm. Fold several sections of cloth over the hook and pull this setup through the bore.

substitute-cleaners

Substitute Cleaners

These are really only limited by your imagination. Just about any cleaner that is used on machinery can be used to clean your firearms. A few options would be automotive brake and drum spray cleaners and heavy-duty marine degreasers. If no automotive or machine cleaning solutions are available, you can use fuel from abandoned cars. Gasoline, diesel, aviation fuel, or even kerosene will work.

A few home-cleaning solutions could work, too, such as mineral spirits, paint thinner, Simple Green, or even Formula 409 cleaner. Don’t overlook dishwashing soaps like Dawn or any other detergent that specializes in removing grease. There is also the old Coca-Cola trick. Being highly acidic, Coke will also clean off dirty firearms parts as well. Regardless of what cleaner you choose to use, ensure all parts are thoroughly rinsed and dried before reassembly.

lubes-and-preservatives

SHTF Lube and Preservatives

Substitute lubricants and preservatives can basically serve the same purpose. Usually any lube can act as a preservative. Wipe a thin coating of lubricant on any exposed metal and it should offer some level of corrosion protection. You should use enough liquid to put a slight shine on the metal, but not so much that it looks or feels wet to the touch.

Finding a substitute lubricant is actually pretty easy. Any type of machinery that requires an engine will require lubricant. Vehicle fluids such as motor oil, transmission fluid, or even hydraulic fluid will all suffice as a lubricant. Home and gardening tools such as lawnmowers, chainsaws, gas-powered weed wackers, or even generators will all require some manner of lubricant that can also be used on firearms.

Another type of lubricant to consider is grease. All vehicles have grease points on the chassis and suspension. A finger swipe of grease will also work as a lubricant. Even common petroleum jelly (i.e. Vaseline) will offer some level of lubrication. Again, be creative in your search and look at anything with an engine as a good source for lubrication.

Get Cleaning

It shouldn’t take the fear of an alien invasion to spur you into action. Set aside some time to gather the right supplies to make a lightweight yet efficient micro cleaning kit and pack it alongside your firearm and bug-out gear. If you’re like us and have multiple go-bags in various locations for different emergencies, you’ll want to make sure you have one cleaning kit per pack.

And, should you ever have the misfortune of being separated from your cleaning supplies, know now that you have the knowledge and skills to craft your own kit in the field. Like with any survival skill, all it takes is some awareness and creativity to adapt to what life’s given you.


10 Uses for Emergency Blankets

It’s easy to bundle up in a scarf and jacket when the temperature drops. And packing a sleeping bag when you go camping is a no-brainer. But what if you end up stranded while on a day hike or have to flee unexpected danger after SHTF? Enter the emergency blanket. This thin piece of Mylar film doesn’t look like much more than a reflective sheet of flexible plastic, but it can retain life-saving heat if you’re caught outdoors without shelter. Plus, it has a myriad of other improvised functions.

The amazing emergency blanket, also known as a space blanket, was developed by NASA back in 1964 and has since become a mainstay in many emergency and first-aid kits — and for good reason. Emergency blankets take up little room, are very lightweight, and can keep you warm by efficiently preventing heat loss. Stash one in your backpack or vehicle’s glove compartment and wrap yourself in it if you ever need a way to stay warm in a jiffy. Its powerful heat-retention properties are why marathon runners are draped in them after running their 26.2 miles and the reason its Mylar material was used to line the spacesuits that went to the moon.

Offgrid Tip!
How to Properly Use an Emergency Blanket: To be fully effective, an emergency blanket should be placed with the shiny side facing your body or any surface you want to keep toasty. This shiny side reflects about 90 percent of your body heat, while the dull side, which is not as efficient, only reflects about 65 percent of radiated heat.

Aside from making you feel like a toasty Pop Tart when wrapped in them, what else are they practical for? Let’s examine 10 alternative uses for the blanket from space.

1. Insulation

emergency-blanket-shoe-insulation

An emergency blanket makes a great insulator from the cold. Use it to help fortify your sleeping bag, if you’re fortunate to have one, or cut a blanket up and stuff it into your shoes and gloves to help keep your tootsies warm.

2. Signaling

emergency-blanket-signaling

Emergency blankets usually come in a silver or gold chrome-like finish. Their mirrored reflective surface is great to bounce light off of to signal for help. When strung up on a tall object such as a tree, wind may cause it to move, creating a fluttering light reflection that may improve your chances of being detected.

3. Water Gathering

emergency-blanket-water-gathering

Because it’s a large sheet of non-porous material, a space blanket is great for catching and collecting water. If it rains, you can dig a hole in the ground and line it like a mini-swimming pool to collect water. Make sure its edges are raised to avoid any dirty runoff. Or if you want to keep your water off the ground, you can tie up four corners onto a tree and use a rock to weigh down the middle. Water will collect at the bottom of this makeshift funnel.

Another alternative is to create a funnel or slide that can divert rainwater into a container. If you’re contending with snow, you can shape the blanket into a cone and place snow into it. Then align your “snow cone” to catch sunlight so that the light generates heat to melt the snow.

4. Shelter

emergency-blanket-shelter

In conjunction with some paracord, duct tape, or even strips of itself (see Use #10), you can make a “lean-to” shelter by tying up two corners of the blanket up on trees and the other two corners lower to the ground to create a shelter from rain or the sun.

5. Heat Reflection

emergency-blanket-fire-heat-reflection

Mylar has a melting temperature of 500 degrees Fahrenheit so it is relatively safe in close proximity to open fire. Use a blanket to reflect heat from a campfire back into your aforementioned emergency-blanket shelter.

6. Medical

emergency-blanket-medical-makeshift-sling

You can use an emergency blanket to fashion a makeshift sling to help better immobilize a broken or sprained arm or use it as a tourniquet in an extreme emergency. Use strips of it to tie sticks to a leg or arm create a splint for injured limbs. It can also act as an impromptu compression bandage if needed as well.

7. Waterproofing

emergency-blanket-backpack-waterproofing

Since the sheet is completely waterproof, anything you sufficiently wrap or shield from falling water should be able to stay dry. Use it to help keep the contents of your backpack dry by placing everything on the blanket then wrapping it prior to placing it in the pack. Keep yourself and your stuff dry by using a blanket as a tent footprint or groundsheet.

8. Catching and Cleaning Meat

emergency-blanket-cooking-fish

Fish like shiny things, so strips of a blanket used as lures should better attract them than just a hook. Also, an emergency blanket makes for a clean and large enough surface on which to clean fish or field dress game. Keep the dirt off your meat!

9. Cooking

emergency-blanket-cooking-next-to-fire

Fashion a blanket into a bowl shape and face it into the sun. Place very thinly sliced meat into it and allow nature to take its course. This works best when there is a blazing sun in the sky. Or if you opt to cook by flame, use pieces of a blanket to wrap up food for cooking near the fire. Not on the fire mind you, but place your wrapped food near the fire and it should get hot enough to cook what’s inside.

10. Cordage

emergency-blanket-strips

Strips of blanket can be braided together to help form improvised cordage. Large braided pieces can even serve as makeshift rope in some circumstances. Though, probably not safe enough to climb with, emergency cordage is good for helping you build a shelter or secure your gear.

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Bug-Out by Air?

Warning!

This article is meant to be a quick overview and is not a detailed guide on aviation, nor should it be construed as an endorsement to operate an aircraft without proper training and licenses. To learn more, consult with a reputable training school or instructor.

The TV reporter said all you needed to know in one sentence: “The governor is declaring a state of emergency and evacuation plans will be announced in the next five minutes. ” Strong winds from the Northwest are driving the flames toward a derailed train of tanker cars filled with volatile chlorine. A solid wall of flames stretches across the television screen and roiling clouds of thick brown smoke climb thousands of feet into the sky. Fire departments from all over the state have been unable to slow the fire's path toward the overturned tankers.

Your wife and two young children enter the room and stand next to you. Their survival will depend on your skills and decision-making over the next hour. You know what to do. You need to bug out now, and it's got to be by plane.

Without being told, each member of the family grabs their go-bags, and 10 minutes later you're entering the code that allows you into Sky Ranch Airport and to your bug-out aircraft: a 22-year-old Cessna 172. The preflight complete, you reach for the ignition key. Your wife puts her hand over yours and squeezes gently as the engine coughs to life, settling into the familiar rhythm. After a few heart-pounding minutes, you're in the air and cruising through 2,100 feet. You share a relieved look with your wife as you gently bank northeast toward your first destination, the mountain top airport 150 nautical miles north.

The preceding story, although fiction, has its basis in the stark reality of compromised land and water egress. Take this story's hypothetical opener: a chlorine tanker accident.

inhalation-chart

Chlorine is used in industrial and commercial products and is therefore commonplace. Depending on the concentration and the exposure time, this chemical can cause severe health problems and even death. At room temperature, chlorine is a gas that's heavier than air, which means it'll linger in low-lying areas unless the wind picks up. The safest means of escaping its potentially fatal and widespread mist could very well be via an aircraft.

At this point, some of you might be asking, “What if I don't know how to fly?” or “Having a bug-out plane is stupid because it isn't realistic. ” Remember: If disaster has already struck, it's too late to develop a bug-out plane strategy. Having an aircraft is an option that may take years to fully develop. But once you have it, it could mean the difference between saving your family and being stuck on the highway with thousands of other panicked drivers wishing you could grow a pair of wings. As they always say, “You can never have too many options when the SHTF. ”

Winged Transport

If you're a regular reader, you know that OFFGRID delves into all manner of bug-out vehicles, from kayaks and snowmobiles to off-road rigs and mountain bikes. So, in this edition we shine the spotlight at aircraft as a survival option. Here's a look at the benefits and disadvantages of being a prepper pilot.

Pros:

  • Best answer when getting distance between you and the event quickly is a priority
  • Reduce limiting variables, such as traffic, road closures, unpredictable crowd behaviors (survival mob mentality), etc
  • Fly over disasters, hostiles, blocked roads, destroyed bridges, etc.
  • Not stranded if the infrastructure can't handle the automotive traffic
  • Ability to do fly-over reconnaissance prior to landing
  • Access multiple destinations

Cons:

  • Dependent on fuel
  • Possibility of public airport closures (the best reason to keep your aircraft at a private airport)
  • Governmental flight restrictions (e. g. Sept. 11 terrorist attack)
  • Most small private aircraft are vulnerable to theft or vandalism due to poorly constructed locks
  • Aircraft not parked in hangers are susceptible to weather events
  • Cost of buying and maintaining an aircraft, and need for maintaining flight skills (whereas you drive your car or truck every day)
  • The variable of flying in poor weather
  • Limits of gross weight (baggage, supplies, etc. ), depending on aircraft

usa-pilots-license

Step One: Pilot's License

Let's say you've weighed the pros and cons, and you're game. Where do you start? Obtain a valid pilot's license (private, sport, or recreational) if you don't already have one. According to Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) guidelines, you can begin training at any age. However, you must be at least 16 to obtain a sport pilot certificate and 17 for a recreational pilot or private pilot certificate.

Here's a look at the main types of pilot's licenses and what it takes to obtain them.

1. Private

Privileges:

  • More than one passenger may be carried
  • Flight outside U. S. airspace allowed
  • Night flight allowed

Training Requirements:

  • 40 hours minimum
  • Pass FAA written exam
  • Pass flight exam with an FAA examiner
  • Requires FAA medical exam
  • Average cost: $9,900

2. Recreational (Airplane and Rotorcraft)

Privilege:

  • Only one passenger may be carried
  • Night flight allowed, but only under the supervision of a certified flight instructor

Training:

  • 30 hours minimum
  • Pass the FAA written exam
  • Pass flight exam with an FAA examiner
  • Requires FAA medical exam
  • Average cost: $7,700

3. Sport (Airplane, Gyro, Weight-Shift-Control, Airships)

Privileges:

  • Only one passenger may be carried

Training:

  • 20 hours minimum
  • Pass the FAA written exam
  • Pass flight exam with an FAA examiner
  • Requires FAA medical exam or a U. S. driver's license and self-certification
  • Average cost $4,400

Step Two: Obtain a Plane

Once you've acquired your pilot's license, it's time to get an airplane that has the basic characteristics needed for a bug-out vehicle. Avoid a rental or club aircraft. Instead, consider a seaplane. It's quite possibly the most versatile bug-out aircraft available to the general public. The seaplane allows you access to runways, grass and dirt landing strips, lakes, ocean, and all manner of waterways.

Due to the inherent ruggedness and reliability of the Husky, Skyhawk, Caravan, and Beaver, all four models are ideal for bugging out to and from land, snow, or water. They also have several rather significant benefits not found in the newer aircraft: long production runs and availability of parts. These planes can be found used in greater quantities and at a lower cost. Here's a closer look at each one. See if one of them meets your needs.

De Havilland Beaver
This single-engine, high-wing Canadian bush plane has been used by military all over the world, from the U. S. Army to the Ghana Air Force.

Capacity:One pilot, six passengers
Cargo:2, 100 pounds of useful load
Length:30 feet, 3 inches
Wingspan:48 feet
Height:9 feet
Empty Weight:3, 000 pounds
Gross Weight:5, 100 pounds
Power Plant:450 hp Pratt and Whitney Wasp Jr. radial engine
Maximum Speed:158 mph
Cruise Speed:143 mph
Range:455 miles
Service Ceiling:18, 000 feet
Rate of Climb:1,020 feet per minute

Aviat Husky
In production since 1987, this rugged and dependable two-seater is one of the best-selling light aircraft designs of the past two decades. This high-wing utility plane is used
for all sorts of functions, from pipeline inspection and glider towing to border patrol and anti-poaching missions.

Capacity:1 pilot, 1 passenger
Cargo:925 pounds of useful load
Length:30 feet, 6 inches
Wingspan:35 feet
Height:9 feet
Empty Weight:, 275 pounds
Gross Weight:2, 250 pounds
Power Plant:180 hp Lycoming O-360
Maximum Speed:145 mph
Cruise Speed:140 mph
Range:800 miles
Service Ceiling:20, 000 feet
Rate of Climb:1, 500 feet per minute

Cessna Caravan Amphibian
This rugged and proven aircraft can operate from terra firma or water— you can land on and take off from almost anywhere. The passenger capacity and ability to transport extensive supplies put this bug-out aircraft at the top of the list. Manufactured since 1998, it's the largest seaplane with a single engine.

Capacity:Eight, 10, or 14
Cargo:3, 230 pounds
Length:38 feet, 1 inches
Wingspan:52 feet, 1 inches
Height:17 feet, 7 inches
Empty Weight:5, 555 pounds
Gross Weight:8, 750 pounds
Power Plant:675 hp Pratt & Whitney Model PT6A-114 A
Maximum Speed:175 kias
Cruise Speed:159 knots
Range:820 nautical miles
Service Ceiling:20, 000 feet
Rate of Climb:939 feet per minute

Cessna 172 Skyhawk
The Cessna 172 Skyhawk is a four-seat, single-engine, high-wing aircraft that first flew in 1955 and has been in production since 1956. More 172 s have been manufactured than any other airplane in history. The availability of used aircraft in good condition is extensive.

Capacity:Two to three passengers(including the pilot)
Length:27 feet
Wingspan:36 feet
Cargo:446 pounds of useful load
Empty Weight:1, 275 pounds
Gross Weight:2, 300 pounds
Power Plant:Lycoming O-360
Maximum Speed:188 mph
Cruise Speed:143 mph
Range:800 miles
Service Ceiling:20, 000 feet
Rate of Climb:1, 500 feet per minute

Step Three: Practice

Much like any other survival skill, flying a bug-out plane proficiently takes repetition. So once you have your license and your plane, practice, practice, and practice. And when you think that you have practiced enough, practice some more. Obviously, you can't learn how to fly from reading a magazine article. So we'
ll give you a brief overview of the basics.

normal-plane-takeoff

Takeoff and Climbing
Complete your pre-take off checklist.  Typically use one degree of flap and the elevator trim is adjusted to neutral. Now slowly advance the throttle, using the rudder pedals to steer the aircraft to the active runway and point the nose into the wind.  Wait for the tower to say, “Skyhawk 6 Charlie Lima, clear for takeoff. ”  The throttle is opened fully to start the takeoff roll. During this takeoff roll, the control wheel, or stick, is usually held in the neutral position, and the rudder pedals are used to keep the airplane on the runway's centerline.

As takeoff airspeed is approached, gently apply backpressure on the control wheel or stick and the plane's nose will begin to lift off the runway. Use the rudder pedals to keep the nose point straight.

When the airplane is clear of the runway, gently relax the control slightly, letting the nose drop slightly as you gain speed. As your airspeed increases, remember the best rate of climb
for your aircraft(found in the aircraft operating manual).

normal-landing-approach-illustration

Landing
First, find the airport— sometimes that's more difficult than it sounds. Check the wind direction at the airport by asking the tower controller the wind direction or look at the windsock on the airfield. At a controlled airport you must comply with the directions of the tower, and a controller will give you the runway information and tell you when to land.

At an uncontrolled airport, there is no tower. You announce your intentions, look for other planes, and when clear, land. Whether you are told which runway to land on or you make the choice, align yourself into the wind and control your airspeed so that the needle in the airspeed indicator is in the white arc. This is a time to be careful and maintain the appropriate airspeed since the bottom of the white arc usually represents the planes stalling speed.

Run a “before landing” checklist, found in the aircraft manufacturer's operating handbook, prior to the final leg of your pattern. Maintain your glide slope angle by using the VASI (Visual Approach Slope Indicator) system installed along the runway. If you see a set of red lights over a set of white lights on the VASI system, you are on the proper glide slope. If the runway you are landing on doesn't have approach lights, you should be 300 feet above the ground 1 mile from the end of the runway and as you cross the runway threshold, smoothly bring the power to idle and smoothly pull back on the controls and flare(slightly nose up) and allow the plane to settle to the runway.

Once you've become proficient at the fundamentals, take it a step further and begin practicing for a potential bug out. Try these four exercises:

Checklist It: Keep a checklist in the office, house, and car. Discovering that you forgot an essential item after you're already strapped into the plane is of little use.

Preplan It: Find the best and fastest route to the airport from your home, work, and any other location were you go at least three times per week on a regular basis.

Drill It: Do a complete run-through at least once every three months with whomever is in your family or survival group.

Old-School It: Once in there air, pick an objective location and see
if you can get there without a GPS and other advanced navigational aids. Hint: At times it may be as simple as following the highway and making the appropriate turn off— it's just that you'
re 4, 000 feet above the ground.

Aviation Adaptation

Whatever the cause, any disaster of significance will adversely affect the power and communications grids. That means your entire wiz bang— state-of-the-art communications and navigational devices will be useless, at least
for a time. The world of convenience will be transported back to the 19 th century.

Right now you are probably saying, “Yeah, but my glass panel and GPS have backup batteries. Wrong, all the backup batteries in the world will not be of any help if society's infrastructure begins to collapse. Tuning to your favorite radio station will be a waste of time if the station can't broadcast a signal. An electromagnetic pulse (EMP) burst will fry everything electrical and whatever survives will be worthless because satellites will be non-functional, ground-based NDBs (non-directional beacons), VORs (VHF omnidirectional range beacons), and TACAN (Tactical Air Navigation Beacons) will cease to function.

Within a matter of seconds you will be transported back to the days of the biplanes, when traveling from point A to point B involved following geographical landmarks such as roads, bridges, mountains, and lakes. Times when one's most important assets were common sense and self-reliance.

How about while you're flying? Are there specific altitudes you need to fly? Visual Flight Rules (VFR) will most likely be used if a crisis hits. The designated altitudes to fly at are 7,500 feet and 8,500 feet since the VFR state that traffic flying easterly should be at odd altitudes plus 500 feet (e. g. 7,500 feet). Westerly traffic utilizing VFR should be at even attitudes plus 500 feet (e. g. 8,500 feet).

Not every catastrophic event will be a chlorine tanker explosion fueled by a wildfire. And not every bug-out vehicle will(or should be) an aircraft. But if you're already a pilot, or have the means to become one, consider a plane as another card in your survival deck.

Aerial Go-Bag

The bug-out bag(BOB) may be as essential to your survival as the fuel in the aircraft's tanks. The first thing to remember is that although you are flying, nothing has to be TSA compliant. Each passenger should have his or her own BOB. There should be one bag for the aircraft that remains in the plane.

The BOB is a very important yet personalized necessity. Unlike on a motor vehicle or a boat, weight is of paramount consideration in an airplane. Weigh each bag and calculate into the total passenger and carry-on weight. This is extremely important as it relates to the plane's performance. You should inspect everyone's bags on a monthly basis using a checklist. Your family's BOBs should be stored in the same place and stored together. Some have used a hall closet or cabinet in the garage. Here's a closer explanation of what your bug-out gear should be.

On Your Person

Whether you're flying commercial or private, make sure you're wearing cotton or wool(no nylon) and leather sole shoes or hiking boots. Pack a light jacket, a hat, and medication. Ask your doctor if you can get a prescription for a wide-spectrum antibiotic and an anti-diarrhea medication.

Captain's BOB

For sake of clarity, the pilot's bag will be called the “Captain's BOB ” and it's the responsibility of the pilot to verify that each passenger has their BOB.  The Captain's BOB should contain:

  • Sectional Charts
  • Sectional Plotter
  • Multiple forms of identification(passport, pilot ‘s license, driver's license etc.)
  • Carbon Monoxide Detector
  • Aviation Transceiver with NOAA weather channel
  • Handheld radio transceivers
  • Pilot's tool kit
  • Compass with mirror
  • Poncho
  • Hat
  • Notepad with pen and pencil(preferably a pad that is designed to be used in rain or foul conditions)
  • Spare prescription eyewear and sunglasses
  • Fire piston(sparks for fires)
  • Paracord 550 (50 feet)
  • Headlamp plus spare batteries
  • Long – sleeve shirt
  • Socks and undergarments
  • Leather work gloves
  • Medical kit
  • Life-Straw for water treatment
  • Mylar blankets (one for each person on board)
  • Vaseline – soaked cotton balls in container (starting / maintaining fires)
  • Large Ziploc bag with toothpaste, medications, deodorant, dental floss Travel Kleenex Packets
  • Sunscreen
  • Tube of Vaseline Lip Therapy
  • Hand sanitizer or wet wipes
  • Extra batteries
  • Assorted plastic bags(trash plus gallon and quart Ziploc bags
  • At least $500 in cash and old / well used silver coins
  • Two knives: one folding, one fixed blade
  • Duct tape
  • Leatherman type tool
  • Aircraft Navigational Maps(Sectionals)
  • Red marking pen or pencil for drawing route and adding changes
  • Handgun and ammunition

bug-out-bag-items

Family BOB:

The list here is a sample.  Build your own go-bag based on your location, the age and health of passengers, and the potential weather.

  • Quart Ziploc bag with toiletries
  • Undergarments
  • Two changes of clothes
  • Hat
  • Sunglasses
  • Small flashlight
  • Compass with mirror
  • Three pairs of socks
  • Gloves
  • Compact water purifier
  • Mini first – aid kit
  • Wet wipes packets
  • Ferrocerium rod fire starter
  • Folding knife
  • Mylar blanket
  • Two large trash bags

ultralight-aircraft

Worst Bug – Out Aircraft

Given the parameters of a bug – out aircraft, there are certain aircraft that would not be appropriate for this type of mission.They ‘re too small, too slow, have little to no cargo capacity, or have limited pilot and passenger protection, among other concerns.

  • Avoid these types of craft when bugging out:
  • Single seat self – launch gliders
  • Hang gliders
  • Paragliders
  • Ultralight aircraft
  • Hot air balloons
  • Speed Parachutes

Air Glossary

  • ADF: Automatic Direction Finder: Radio compass giving a relative bearing
  • ADT: Approved Departure Time
  • AGL: Above Ground Level
  • AIRMET: A type of weather advisory regarding turbulence, icing, and low visibility
  • AME: Aviation Medical Examiner
  • APP: Approach control
  • ARTCC: Air Route Traffic Control Centre
  • ASI: Airspeed Indicator
  • ATA: Actual Time of Arrival
  • ATIS: Automatic Terminal Information Service. Automatically recorded message transmitted on a particular frequency, containing current weather conditions, altimeter setting, active runways, etc., provided at airports with a tower (controlled).
  • AVGAS: Aviation Gasoline. Usually followed by the octane rating. Used by piston-engine aircraft.
  • Call sign: Phrase used in radio transmissions aircraft to identify an aircraft, before proceeding to actual instructions. An example would be “Motorglider 351 Hotel” or “Cessna 13 Whiskey.”
  • Ceiling: Height above ground or water level of the base of the lowest layer of cloud.
  • Clearance: Authorization given by ATC (the tower, Air Traffic Control) to proceed as requested or instructed (for example: “Cleared for takeoff,” “Cleared to land”).
  • Crosswind: Wind perpendicular to the motion of the aircraft. The crosswind leg is also one of the many words describing the approach segments.
  • Density altitude: Pressure altitude (as indicated by the altimeter) corrected for air temperature.
  • DI: Direction Indicator. A gyro instrument, which indicates the magnetic heading of an aircraft.
  • Downwind: When flying parallel to the runway.
  • ELT or ELB: Emergency Locator Transmitter/Beacon
  • ETA: Estimated Time of Arrival
  • FAA: Federal Aviation Administration
  • FBO: Fixed-Base Operator. Supplier of fuel, maintenance, aircraft rental or sale, flight training, etc. at the airport.
  • FINAL: Final Approach is the part of a landing sequence in which the aircraft has made its final turn and is flying directly to the runway.
  • GND: Ground
  • Go-around: When an aircraft on final terminates its plans to land, gains altitude and begins the landing pattern again.
  • GPS: Global Positioning System (Navstar). Navigational system using orbiting satellites to determine the aircraft’s position on the Earth.
  • IDENT: SQUAWK function of a transponder. When the “Ident” button is activated, an aircraft will briefly appear more distinctly on a radarscope and this may be used for identification or acknowledgment purposes.
  • IFR: Instrument Flight Rules for the operation of aircraft in instrument meteorological conditions.
  • ILS: Instrument Landing System provides horizontal and vertical guidance for the approach.
  • Knot (kt): Standard unit of speed in aviation were 1 knot equals 1.1515 mph
  • LAT: Latitude
  • Magnetic course: Intended horizontal direction, measured in degrees clockwise from magnetic north.
  • Mayday: The international radio distress call.
  • MSL: Mean Sea Level
  • NM: Nautical Miles
  • NTSB: National Transportation Safety Board
  • OAT: Outside Air Temperature
  • Payload: The combined weight of passengers and/or cargo.
  • POH: Pilot’s Operating Handbook (aircraft’s owners manual)
  • RPM: Revolutions Per Minute
  • RWY: Runway
  • SIGMET: Significant Meteorological Information. A type of weather advisory regarding severe weather conditions (thunderstorms, turbulence, icing, volcanic ash, etc.).
  • Squawk: To transmit an assigned code via a transponder.
  • STOL: Short Take-Off and Landing.
  • TAS: True Airspeed. Airspeed corrected for altitude and outside air temperature.
  • TCA: Terminal Control Area
  • Tailwind: Strong wind in the same direction as the motion of the aircraft.
  • Touchdown: Synonym for landing.
  • Transponder: A transponder is a wireless communications, monitoring, or control device that picks up and automatically responds to an incoming signal.
  • UNICOM: Privately operated radio service at uncontrolled airfields.
  • UTC: Co-ordinated Universal Time, formerly Greenwich Mean Time
  • VHF: Very high frequency. Radio frequencies in the 30-300 MHz band, used for most civil air-to-ground communication.
  • VOR: Very high frequency Omnidirectional Range.
  • Wake turbulence: Wingtip vortices generated behind a wing producing lift.
  • Waypoint: Reference point used for navigation indicated by latitude and longitude.
  • Wind shear: Refers to a rapid change in winds over a short horizontal distance that can cause a rapid change in lift, and thus the altitude of aircraft.
  • Zulu: Used worldwide for times of flight operations.

About the Author:

Dr. Neal H.Olshan is a consulting psychologist, a pilot, a writer, and a fine art photographer, as well as the chief combat psychologist for LMS Defense.He is the developer of the Evolution of Mindset Training Program.  Olshan is the author of six non-fiction books and wrote the novel The Panama Escape with his wife, Mary.

>> www.drolshan.com


How Do You Measure Its Worth?

“Hello, my precioussssss.” Due to their scarcity and, for some, their beauty, precious metals have been highly desirable and considered quite valuable by many cultures for millennia. Those of us who enjoy living a prepared lifestyle may opt to keep precious metals because these commodities traditionally hold their value and are trusted after financial institutions fail. After an economic collapse, a nation's currency might be worthless, but a metal such as gold will still be sought after.

The truth is the value of precious metals isn't fixed — it fluctuates according to the mood of the economy as well as other outside factors. Everything from a weak economy, conflicts between countries, and even natural disasters can affect their worth. Let's take a look at the values of two prominent precious metals — silver and gold — during economic crises of the past four decades. We're not economics professors, but the correlation would be evident even to Gollum.

Sources
Info Mine www.infomine.com
National Mining Association www.nma.org
U.S. Geological Survey www.usgs.gov

*Note: Prices not adjusted for inflation.

price-of-gold-and-silver