Home Canning Tips

Home canning is a great technique for long-term food preservation. If you haven't already checked out our previous article on how to perform home canning, we recommend doing so. That said, home canning does require care to avoid the development of dangerous botulism toxin.

Modern Survival Blog has a great list of 12 canning tips that you should keep in mind for home canning. These items will ensure you don't make mistakes that could turn your preserved food into poison.

  1. Don’t use jars larger than a quart. Home canning technology cannot guarantee that larger quantities will be sufficiently heated through for enough time. Rather, the food on the outside will overcook, while that on the inside won’t get hot enough for food safety.
  2. A water-bath canner may only be used for high acid foods such as tomatoes, fruits, rhubarb, sauerkraut, pickles, and jams/jellies. A pressure canner MUST be used for low acid foods including vegetables, meats, and stews.
  3. Use only modern canning recipes from reliable sources (especially when first starting out).
  4. Never reuse jar lids. Used lids aren’t reliable for sealing correctly. If a screw-on band is rusty or bent, it won’t work right and should be discarded and replaced. That said, you might consider purpose-designed reusable Tattler lids.
  5. Don’t use antique or ‘French’ -type canning jars. They aren’t as safe as the modern, regular ‘Ball, Kerr’ type.

To view 7 more tips and learn more about home canning, visit The Modern Survival Blog.


HAZE Aerosol Deer Attractant

If you’re living off the grid and hunting game to survive, any tool to improve your game kill rate is a potential life-saver. While traps, firearms, and camouflage can help with hunting, there’s another angle to consider: biological warfare.

HAZE deer spray

Mossy Oak BioLogic, a leader in scientific deer herd management, recently released an all-new attractant, the HAZE Aerosol line. The line consists of three varieties for varying parts of the season: Buck Urine, Doe in-Heat, and Doe Urine. Deer communicate through scent, and these three sprays can help bring deer to you, providing a huge advantage if you’re hunting to stay alive.

For more information on the HAZE Aerosol products, visit www.addictionattractants.com


Knife Honing

We frequently emphasize the importance of knife maintenance. In a survival situation, if you don’t have a reliable and sharp knife, almost everything you do becomes harder. You may know how to sharpen a knife, but do you know how to hone your blade? This technique ensures your blade retains peak performance in between sharpenings.

Even if you’re not familiar with the technique, you’ve probably seen a chef or butcher using a steel to hone his blade. Some people incorrectly refer to this as “sharpening”, but there’s an important difference. Knife honing simply re-aligns and de-burrs the blade’s metal edge, while sharpening removes larger amounts of metal to create a new edge. The video below does a great job of explaining how honing works:

Almost all non-serrated blades can and should be honed periodically. Knife honing can also be done with a strop, a leather belt, or even the frosted edge of a car’s window. Maintaining your blade by honing will allow you to go longer between sharpenings, and keep your knives slicing and dicing smoothly.


Fire Safety Gone Wrong

When discussing survival, we often focus on how to start a fire, rather than how to extinguish one. However, it’s important to know both techniques inside and out, as things can get out of control very quickly if you don’t know what to do.

This is demonstrated by the following YouTube video of a man from Japan on a live-stream webcam testing a lighter in his home. He can’t get it going at first, and refills it with lighter fluid. Then, when he strikes it again, the entire lighter bursts into flames and is dropped into a trash bag. In seconds, the trash bag is engulfed.

It’s easy to look at this video and consider all the missed opportunities to put out the fire, but remember that when panic sets in, we don’t always think straight. So, what can we learn from this video?

  • This fire starts as a Class B, or flammable liquid fire. Due to the abundance of lighter fluid as fuel, it grew rapidly. These fires can get out of control very quickly.
  • Although throwing the striker into the trash was a reflex response, it only provided more fuel for the fire.
  • Moving the trash bag close to a wall only served to spread the fire. If you start a fire in an enclosed space, don’t move it!
  • The amount of water required to put out a fire is usually more than you’d expect, especially when dealing with flammable liquids. Attempting to fill and throw buckets of water is usually a lost cause, especially with this size of fire.
  • Beating the fire seemed to work at first, but smothering it to reduce the oxygen supply would have been a much better choice.
  • Above all, ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher in your home and/or vehicle, and make sure it is easily accessible and properly maintained. You may think this couldn’t happen to you, or that you’d make wiser fire safety choices, but in an emergency, nothing trumps a real fire extinguisher.

Footwear for Survival

High-tech footwear is a relatively modern concept. For thousands of years, indigenous cultures such as Native Americans and Australian Aborigines have survived by wearing simple leather sandals and moccasins, or by going completely barefoot. Through countless years of walking in the wilderness, these men trained and hardened their bodies against the elements, developing feet that were tough and calloused enough to traverse hot sand and sharp stones with ease.

Footwear for Survival

Although we certainly respect this time-tested behavior for its simplicity, things have changed a lot in the last few millennia. With the development of the automobile, mass transit systems, and aircraft, we have become a society that walks less than ever before. We’re much more likely to be training our bodies while we watch TV on treadmills at the gym, than we are to be trekking through the woods in search of a day’s meal.

The endless march of progress (no pun intended) has not only affected where we walk, but also how we do so. Rather than choosing between going barefoot or wearing minimalist sandals, we are faced with a veritable smorgasbord of footwear options. Do you really need gel-soled, inflatable, neon-colored cross-trainers with flashing LEDs, built-in heel wheels, and smart phone connectivity? It may sound ridiculous to imagine all that in one shoe, but each of these features can be found in shoes today. Clearly it’s overkill, but where do we draw the line? What kind of shoes are actually beneficial to survival?

Footwear for Survival

For the sake of this article, we’re going to break down shoes into three categories. First, there are light-duty shoes, such as slippers, moccasins, and sandals. Next, you have medium-duty shoes, such as running shoes and cross-trainers. Finally, you have heavy-duty shoes, such as combat boots and hiking boots. We recommend owning at least one of each type, to keep all your bases covered—while it’s possible to get by with a single pair of hiking boots, you won’t have the agility lighter shoes provide. Read on to see our analysis of these shoes, and find out which light, medium, and heavy shoes are best for you.

Light-Duty Shoes

Hi-Tec-Rio-Adventure-01

Remember how we mentioned Native Americans? Their use of leather moccasins in every situation from hunting to combat proves the versatility of light shoes. This  category of shoes prevents abrasions and cuts to the soles of your feet, as well as reducing the risk of stubbed or hyper-extended toes, while permitting maximum mobility. Some light shoes, such as sandals, only protect the bottom of the foot, while others cover everything up to the ankle. Light shoes generally have very thin soles, limited arch support, and are targeted at interfering as little as possible with the foot’s natural sensitivity and flexibility.

This category includes highly specialized models like climbing shoes, cycling shoes, and track shoes, most of which are too targeted at a single task to be effective in a general survival scenario. The recently popular Vibram Five Fingers and other “barefoot”-style designs would also fall into this category. Even the common Converse All-Stars could be considered light shoes, with their thin canvas construction. Generally, we recommend tried-and-true low-top or slip-on style light footwear.

Nike-Free-Trainer-50-V6-02

If you live near a large body of water, you may consider water shoes, which will permit you to walk across sand, rocks, and coral while fishing. They’re also great for kayaking, boating, and other marine activities, since they won’t weigh you down much if you need to swim with them on. If you’re not spending much time around water, look into a light shoe design that gives you grip and flexibility without impeding articulation and ankle movement. Also consider weight, since a shoe that weighs less will not hinder your agility.

Medium-Duty Shoes

Salomon-Fellraiser-01

Medium-duty shoes are the most common for everyday use, and encompass everything from running shoes to light boots. They’re more durable and protective than light-duty shoes above, but they also weigh more and tend to be bulkier. The biggest difference with a medium-duty shoe is its cushioning—generally, the body of the shoe and the sole are thicker and more supportive. This often makes them better for walking or running long distances, as they can soak up impact and reduce joint fatigue.

For survival purposes, cross training and trail shoes are generally the most effective. Cross-trainers feature a heavily cushioned design with breathability, grip, and excellent comfort. The low top on these shoes means you’ll still have plenty of ankle flexibility, but this also means you’ll need to be very careful not to roll an ankle on uneven terrain. Trail shoes are constructed similarly to cross-trainers, although they trade the bright white and neon color schemes for something more outdoorsy. Trail shoes also may have a more aggressive tread pattern, and less bulk at the expense of slightly reduced cushioning.

As the name implies, medium-duty shoes are a real jack of all trades, and if you’re going to be residing exclusively in an urban environment, these might be the only pair of shoes you need. These shoes also look more “ordinary” than a pair of combat boots or other specialized designs, so you won’t stand out in a crowd.

Heavy-Duty Shoes

When it comes to picking footwear, many survivalists and outdoorsmen immediately choose heavy-duty shoes, such as combat boots or hiking boots. It’s understandable to want the toughest and most supportive shoes available for survival, but it’s also important to remember that heavy-duty shoes do have their downsides. First, they’re extremely bulky compared to the other categories, and relatively heavy as well. Secondly, they can be tough to put on and take off, and often require long break-in periods when new. Their hardened appearance will also have onlookers in urban environments giving you furtive glances. Finally, these shoes may impede your ability to operate certain vehicles due to their large size and restriction of ankle movement.

That said, there are many benefits to heavy boots as well—otherwise you wouldn’t see so many hikers, military members, and LEOs using them. They protect your feet, ankles, and even your calves from abrasions and impacts unlike any other shoe category. They’re also designed for long-term durability, and a good pair of boots can last through years of daily use. Many boots are also waterproof, and feature a collar at the top to prevent gravel or debris from entering the boot.

Blackhawk-Ultralight-Side-Zip-Boot-02

When choosing heavy boots, be sure to consider the terrain you’ll be using them on. Rough, rocky terrain will require a taller and more rigid upper section, so you don’t end up twisting your ankles. Toe protection is also key, and you may even consider steel or reinforced toes (although this will increase weight and bulk). Before buying any boots, be sure to walk around for 10 minutes and then try them on, since your foot will swell and fit more realistically. Wear the correct socks when you try on boots, and be sure your toes don’t contact the end of the boot’s toe box while walking.

Heavy boots can serve you well in a survival scenario, but don’t discount the other lighter types of shoes. Light, medium, and heavy—each has their strengths and weaknesses. So, what kind of shoes do you prefer? Let us know in the comments below.


Streamlight Siege AA LED Lantern

Although a flashlight does an excellent job of illuminating a specific target, there’s one thing it doesn’t do well—light up a room. That’s where a lantern comes in. This particular lantern, the Streamlight Siege AA, uses an array of LEDs to cast up to 200 lumens of white light in a 360-degree radius. Also, it’s powered by easily obtainable AA batteries, and will run for 7 to 37 hours (on high and low power levels, respectively).

Streamlight C4 AA lantern

However, this lantern has another trick up its sleeve—it has a magnetic base. This allows it to be mounted on the side of a metal wall, toolbox, car, or a variety of other surfaces. So, if you’re looking for reliable and versatile area lighting for your survival kit, check out the new magnetic Siege AA from Streamlight.


Fix a Flat Tire

If you use a vehicle every day, you should also know how to repair it in an emergency, or at the very least, know how to patch it up and get it back on the road temporarily. Most of us are well aware of how to swap out a flat tire with a spare tire, but surprisingly few know what to do if that spare fails. As the saying goes, two is one and one is none — don’t rely solely on your vehicle’s spare tire. A good tire patch kit goes a long way to fix a flat, and may even last the life of your tire if applied correctly.

This video from Indefinitely Wild outlines the basics of applying a tire patch in the middle of nowhere. It’s easy enough with a patch kit from any auto parts store, although it will require a separate 12-volt air compressor if you want to inflate your tire away from civilization. Otherwise, you can re-inflate at most gas stations.

In addition to the off-the-shelf patch kit, it’s a good idea to have some rubber cement or glue to coat the patch (shown in the video, but not mentioned by the narrator). As a third fall-back plan, you could consider buying a can of tire slime or foam, although it generally makes a mess and isn’t as effective as a patch. And if worst comes to worst, you can usually drive a short distance on the flat at slow speeds (i.e. below 5mph on the shoulder) in an emergency.


Kayak Paddling

The traditional kayak is a simple watercraft design believed to be nearly 4,000 years old, and in its simplicity, it has proven to be a great resource for survival. If you live near a large body of water, knowing how to kayak is wise—even if you don’t own your own, you may be able to appropriate one as a means of transport if SHTF. Then again, kayaks are inexpensive to own or rent, so you might consider integrating one into your bug-out plan (or back-up plan).

Kayak paddling 2

Like any watercraft, there’s some technique and skill involved in using a kayak. Fortunately, we recently found an excellent resource for anyone interested in learning: KayakPaddling.net. This free guide walks you through 21 different kayak maneuvers, from simple balancing to complex recovery rolls, with animations and text captions for each. It’s certainly worth a quick browse—even if you never plan on using a kayak, it’s always good to know. Click here to visit the KayakPaddling.net interactive guide.

 


Mastering Knife Sharpening with Japanese Water Stones

How many knives do you own? For most of us, the answer is quite a few, whether they’re found in the kitchen, bug-out bag, or on your person. Now, a more important question: can you sharpen them correctly without relying on an electric grinder or your local cutlery store? Keeping your knife sharp is essential for both safety and efficiency, whether you're at home or in an expedition base camp. In this guide, we'll use a technique taught by renowned bushcraft instructor Ray Mears to walk you through the process of knife sharpening with Japanese water stones to maintain your knife's edge.

This technique works especially well with a flat or scandi grind. If you are uncertain as to what grind your knife has, you can use our grind guide for reference. Although a blade with a secondary bevel can be sharpened using Japanese water stones, it requires a steadier hand, and a lot of practice. For sharpnening secondary bevels, most people find it easier to use a sharpener where they angle can be adjusted mechanically, like the Cold Steel Benchtop Sharpener found in this article. But for flat and scandi grinds, you can follow along with Ray Mears to ensure your knife stays in top condition.

Ray Mears displaying the mirrored bevel on a knife he just sharpened and polished.

Above: Ray Mears shows off the mirrored polish on a freshly sharpened blade.

Step-by-Step Knife Sharpening Process:

Step 1 – Soak the Stones:

  • Begin by soaking your Japanese water stones in water for 5 to 10 minutes to saturate them fully.

Step 2 – Prepare the Stones:

  • Use three different grits for optimal sharpening:

– Coarsest Stone (800 grit): Start with this stone to shape the edge.

– Medium Stone (1200 grit): Use this to refine the edge.

– Fine Stone (6000 grit): This stone polishes the blade for a razor-sharp finish.

  • Secure the stones on a flat surface using a clamp with rubber feet to prevent slipping. If you do not have a dedicated clamp, a moist placing the stone on top of a moist washcloth or towel will help keep the stone in place.

Step 3 – Sharpen the Knife:

  • Starting with the 800 Grit Stone:

– Keep the stone wet during use.

– Lay the knife flat on the stone and tilt it until the edge bevel is flat against the surface.

– Slice across the stone, maintaining the bevel flat, for about 8 strokes in one direction.

– Turn the blade over and repeat the process in the opposite direction.

– Finish with 8 alternating strokes to ensure an even edge.

Step 4 – Special Attention to the Main Carving Edge:

  • On the 2-3 inches of the blade closest to the handle, run it over the water stone 4 times in each direction. This will ensure the part of the blade most often used for carving will be sharp.
  • Finish with 4 alternating strokes.

Step 5 – Repeat with the 1200 Grit Stone:

  • Follow the same process as above until the edge is flat and free of light spots. “Light spots” simply refers to any light reflecting off the edge, indicating a surface of the edge that is not even with the surrounding edge.

Step 6 – Finish with the 6000 Grit Stone:

  • Create a slurry on the top of the stone using a nagura stone. The slurry helps to polish the blade.
  • Follow the same sharpening process, ensuring a beautifully polished edge.

Step 7 – Polishing:

  • Use the slurry from the 6000 grit stone to polish the blade's surface, removing any stains or rust. Take care not to run your fingers along the blades edge since it should now be razor sharp!

Step 8 – Final Touches:

  • Stropping the Edge:

– Use the inside of a belt, or a dedicated strop to strop the edge, removing any microscopic burrs. Drag the knife with the edge facing away from the belt, giving it 50 strokes.

  • Honing the Edge:

– For an extra sharp edge, lightly run the blade across a ceramic rod or even the edge of a vehicle window about 10 times.

Sharpening a knife on a 6000 grit Japanese water stone.

Above: The black streak running through the slurry of the 6000 grit Japanese whet stone is actually metal particles being removed from the blade.

Knife Sharpening with Japanese Water Stones Recap

  • Soak stones in water for 5-10 minutes.
  • Use 800, 1200, and 6000 grit stones.
  • Secure stones with a clamp to prevent slipping.
  • Sharpen the knife in 8-stroke increments per direction.
  • Alternate strokes to maintain a true edge.
  • Create a slurry with a nagura stone for fine polishing.
  • Strop the edge using a belt for a perfect finish.
  • Use a vehicle window edge for additional sharpening.
  • Polish the blade to remove stains and rust.

If you’re not 100% sure about your knife sharpening technique, do yourself a favor and watch this video from bushcraft expert Ray Mears. He goes over the basics of using a whetstone, a strop, and even the edge of a car window to get a blade perfectly sharp.

Above: Watch the knife sharpening demo Ray Mears gives utilizing Japanese water stones.

Additional Tips:

  • Always keep your fingers away from the edge during sharpening.
  • A carbon steel blade, like the one shown in the video, can stain and rust, so polish it regularly.
  • Test the sharpness by slicing through paper or gently shaving hairs from your arm.

By following these steps, you can maintain your knife in the best condition possible, ensuring it's always ready for use.

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Get-Home Bags

It's a busy day for you at the office, and the last thing you needed was to get the Blue Screen of Death before you could generate your daily TPS reports. Frustrated, you get up to storm over to the IT department to demand an explanation. It's then that you look up and notice that not only is your computer on the fritz, but the entire floor looks like it has gone dark. Is it a blackout? Well, the backup systems didn't kick in like they should have. What's going on here?

The Situation

Regardless of what cut the power to your building, you realize by looking out the window that the power is out in every building in the surrounding area. The traffic lights aren't even flashing red. You're still hoping a run-of-the-mill power outage is the culprit when you see drivers exiting their cars in the middle of the street. That's when you get a sinking feeling that something more serious is going down. Perhaps it's the effects of a solar flare, or maybe even a hacker or terrorist attack? All you know is you need to get out while you can. While your officemates are still trying to figure out if a circuit breaker was tripped, you're already on to the next step. You tell them about everything you've noticed, reach for the office-based get-home bag that you've kept under your desk, and head to the stairs to get to the ground floor.

On the Move

From the office, it's about 18 miles to home — it's already late afternoon, so you'd better get a move on. The supplies you stored in your bag are sufficient to keep you provisioned and geared up for the trek back home, even if it takes a couple of days. The average person can walk about 3 miles per hour, so you're looking at a six-hour walk at best without rest — and that's not taking into account obstacles natural or manmade (or man himself).

back-get-home-bags-blackhawk-diversion-wax-canvas-rucksack

The Office-Based Bag

Since you're always prepared, you know the importance of stowing what you can where you can. You can never be too prepared, and it's not possible to anticipate where you'll be when a disaster strikes. What you do know is that you spend a good majority of your time either at home, at work, or traveling between the two. With that in mind, you've developed supply caches in the form of kits for places that you frequent the most. Keeping the mother lode of survival supplies at home is less of an issue than keeping supplies in other places, such as at the office. At your workplace you opt for the less conspicuous, ever adaptable backpack.

Blending in

It's not hard to see why backpacks are the go-to bug-out supply carrier of choice. They're made to carry and to be carried. Slung on your back, packs keep your hands free and, depending on type, they can carry very large loads. They can also blend into their surroundings, perfect for an office environment. The less attention drawn to it, the better. In times of non-emergency, a boring-looking bag may be easier to hide in plain sight and less enticing to steal. When being used, it will draw a lot less attention on the streets than a bag finished in whatever spiffy new tactical pattern is the flavor of the month.

Inventory

What you may choose to carry in your office get-home bag will greatly differ based on your needs. Those who work just a stone's throw from home will require a very different loadout than those who have a long commute. It's easy to underestimate the difference between walking and driving, so be realistic and plan accordingly. We suggest packing as light as you can while carrying as much practical gear as you think you'll really need. Don't pack the kitchen sink. For example, if you think you might need to spend a night on the road, you're better off packing a $1 Mylar space blanket that weighs a few ounces than a $100 one-person tent that clocks in at 4 pounds.

Essentials such as water, a lighter, a first-aid kit, and high-calorie ration bars are a no-brainer. If you don't carry a knife on you every day, consider packing a quality fixed blade or folding knife. A hand-crank radio with an integrated flashlight could be a useful tool, too, as it can provide vital news updates as well as a source of light. Comfort items like a roll of toilet paper will go a long way. If you have room, an extra set of clothes and a couple pairs of socks are good to have. And because the apocalypse might not hit on casual Friday, a pair of sneakers or old boots wouldn't be a bad idea either. Nothing would suck more than having to hike back home while dodging meteor strikes in your Kenneth Cole wingtips.

Because backpacks come in so many different shapes, sizes, and looks, we've selected a few of our favorites in the following guide. Most can be hidden away under your desk and some look at home in the conference room as well as a backwoods trail. Take a look; your next pack might be among our survey of new and noteworthy packs on the next six pages.

Proper Fitment

backpack-get-home-bags-proper-fitment

We stress that less is more, so pack lightly when possible. But depending on what your requirements are, a fully loaded pack can weigh 50 pounds or more. A properly fitted backpack can spread the weight evenly on your body to help avoid injury and ease fatigue.

To figure out what size backpack is right for you, you'll want to tilt your head down and feel for the bump where your shoulder meets your neck. This bump is called the C7 vertebra. When measuring torso length, the C7 is considered the upper most point and where you want to start your measurement.

Next, place your hands on your hip bones with four fingers facing forward and your thumbs toward the back. The imaginary line between your two thumbs is the bottom of your torso. It'll be easier if you have someone help you with this next step. Stand up straight (no slouching now!) and measure the length between the C7 vertebra and the imaginary line on your lower back. The length you come up with is your torso length and can be used to reference different backpack sizes. Taking the time to find a properly fitted bag is often overlooked, but is essential.

Get-Home Bags

  • 5.11 Tactical Covrt Backpack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 21 x 14.5 x 8 inches (30L)
    Weight - 2 pounds, 10 ounces
    Colorway - Black (shown), Storm, Tundra
    MSRP - $110
    URL - http://www.511tactical.com/

    The Covrt Boxpack is a roll-top bag that features a slide-adjusting sternum strap and reinforced padded shoulder straps for a secure and comfortable carry while on the go.

  • Black Diamond Magnum 20 Pack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 20 x 11 x 9 inches (20L)
    Weight - 1 pound, 2 ounces
    Colorway - Black, Laurel, Sulfur (shown)
    MSRP - $90
    URL - http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/

    With a 20-liter storage capacity, the Black Diamond Magnum 20 features an internal stow pocket and an accessory loop perfect for a trekking pole or ice axe.

  • Blackhawk Diversion Wax Canvas Rucksack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 20 x 12.2 x 5.5 inches (25L)
    Weight - 3 pounds, 12 ounces
    Colorway - Earth (shown), Slate
    MSRP - $256
    URL -http://www.blackhawk.com/

    robably the most "undercover" and stylish bag of the bunch, the BLACKHAWK! Diversion Wax Canvas Rucksack is made of quality materials, including 10.10-ounce wax canvas, water-resistant zippers, and easy-to-use magnetic buckles.

  • Cambelbak Skirmish

    Dimensions (Volume) - 21 x 14.5 x 8 inches (33L)
    Weight - 4 pounds, 14 ounces
    Colorway - Coyote (shown)
    MSRP - $315 to 345
    URL - http://www.camelbak.com/

    On the face of the Skirmish is a sleek, low-profile composite PALS panel that provides secure attachment for pouches and gear.

  • Condor Frontier Outdoor Pack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 18 x 11 x 7 inches (20L)
    Weight - 3 pounds, 4 ounces
    Colorway - Black, Brown, Grey (shown), MultiCam
    MSRP - $125
    URL - http://www.condoroutdoor.com/

    The Condor Frontier Outdoor Pack is constructed with Mil-spec 500-denier Cordura fabric and high tensile-strength composite nylon thread, featuring a rugged, high abrasion-resistant rubber bottom for further reinforcement.

  • FirstSpear Comm Pack Large

    Dimensions (Volume) - 18.5 x 13 x 7 inches (30L)
    Weight - 2 pounds, 5 ounces
    Colorway - Black, Blue/Silver, Light Grey Ripstop, Ranger/Coyote (shown)
    MSRP - $208
    URL - http://www.first-spear.com/

    FirstSpear's Comm Pack is based on the company's ECP military assault pack, but has a toned-down urban appearance that allows you to blend into the crowd.

  • Grey Ghost Gear Griff Pack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 19 x 12 x 8 inches (30L)
    Weight - 2 pounds, 10 ounces
    Colorway - Black (shown), Grey
    MSRP - $119
    URL - http://www.greyghostgear.com/

    At first glance, this looks like a fairly standard backpack that you'd find at any sporting goods store.

  • Hazard 4 Clerk

    Dimensions (Volume) - 18 x 11 x 6.2 inches (20L)
    Weight - 3 pounds, 14 ounces
    Colorway - Black (shown), Coyote, MultiCam (+$24)
    MSRP - $240
    URL - http://www.hazard4.com/

    One look at the Hazard 4 Clerk, and we could tell that it's an extremely well-built pack.

  • Tactical Tailor Urban Operator Pack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 18.5 x 12 x 6.25 inches (30L)
    Weight - 2 pounds, 4 ounces
    Colorway - Black (shown), Coyote Brown, MultiCam, Ranger Green
    MSRP - $135
    URL - http://www.tacticaltailor.com/

    For those of us who are looking for a no-nonsense, no-frills backpack, this might be the one you're looking for.

  • Vanquest Trident-20 Backpack

    Dimensions (Volume) - 18.5 x 11 x 6 inches (20L)
    Weight - 2 pounds, 15 ounces
    Colorway - Black (-$10), Coyote Tan (-$10), MultiCam Black (shown), MultiCam, Wolf Grey (-$10)
    MSRP - $165
    URL - http://www.vanquest.com/

    The Trident-20 backpack is worn with its two padded shoulder straps like a regular backpack, but also allows you the option of accessing its interior from its side zipper compartments for access in tight spaces.

  • Vertx EDC Gamut Bag

    Dimensions (Volume) - 22 x 14 x 7 inches (28L)
    Weight - 4 pounds, 2 ounces
    Colorway - Black with Red Trim (shown), Black, Smoke Grey
    MSRP - $200
    URL - http://www.wearvertx.com/

    All business all the time, this pack was designed specifically to accommodate both a 15-inch laptop and a full-sized handgun simultaneously.