Hydroponic Growing Systems – Hydro Planting

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Our philosophy is the same for pretty much every tool or product in our pile of goodies. If we can't find it, or if the choices on the market don't meet our needs, we create it. If the choices available on the market meet our needs, but are too expensive, then we make it ourselves. If the available options meet our needs, and it would cost us more to make it ourselves, then we purchase it.

Our hydroponic system is a combination of three choices. Some of the components come from a hydroponic store and others we found at big-box stores for very little money, and we used tools that many people have to assemble it. Our skill level may be higher than most people, but we assure you that just about anyone could build a system like this — and it won't cost you much.

Hydroponics is a soil-less agricultural production. One key benefit, among many others, is the ability to produce edible plants all year long due to the controlled environment. Despite what you might infer from the name, hydroponic systems use 75 to 90 percent less water than traditional agricultural methods and still provide an average of 25 percent greater yield. Oftentimes the amount of time required to harvest can also be reduced by increasing the exposure to light. Long summer days can be replicated year-round with higher temperatures and longer light cycles. If nothing else, you avoid the life-ending frost when you grow indoors. If you're a preparedness-minded individual, how could you not be interested in — or at least be intrigued by — hydroponics as a sustainable means of growing your own food?

Hydroponic vegetable plantation

In a primitive-living scenario, the majority of people will not have the ability to live off of their crops the entire year unless they have a hydroponic growing system. Our system produces enough green, leafy produce to supplement a super high-protein diet of small game, while providing enough scraps to feed our chickens, too.

The Parts

There are some basic hydroponic system types and then many variations of each. The simplest form of hydroponic system to most complex are: wick system, water culture, ebb and flow (flood and drain), drip system (recovery/non-recovery), nutrient film technique (NFT), and aeroponic.

In our system, we use a hybrid version of the NFT, which is the most recognizable system and what most people refer to when they use the term “hydroponics.” Our NFT is a continuous nutrient solution flow system with a 50/50 combination of vermiculite and perlite growing medium in the individual grow cups or baskets. It's set up to have a single large reservoir with one to four grow trays, depending on the demands of the system. Of course, we could increase the size of the reservoir to support a much larger system if desired.

Due to our tight budget, we started our process at our local Wal-Mart to acquire as many of the necessary components as we could find. We purchased a Sterilite 18-gallon bin with lid for our reservoir and two 10-gallon bins with lids for our grow trays. They come in black, which is the color we want to reduce light transmission. There are commercially available grow baskets to put the plants in, but we will be using yogurt containers as a DIY option, saving the lids and painting them black with the plastic paint noted later. Then we selected a double-outlet aquarium air pump, heavy-duty indoor timer for a lamp, extension cord, and multi-plug.

We headed to Lowes and picked up a two 4×4-foot pieces of plywood, 12 ceramic light fixtures, six natural light and six soft white 23-watt CFL bulbs, and Krylon Fusion satin black spray paint that bonds to plastic. The paint is for the yogurt container lids that are used to fill unused holes in the grow tray system by putting them on an empty container. The black paint stops light from entering and moisture from exiting the grow tray.

Then we headed to a hydroponic supply store for the remaining items, including vermiculite, perlite, EcoPlus submersible water pump and air stones, tubing, fittings, pH meter, nutrient meter and Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus, Kind Base and Kind Bloom.

We had eyebolts and paracord on hand to create the suspension system enabling us to raise and lower the light board. I also had the tools we needed to put our system together, which included a cordless drill, drill bits, hole-saw, and soldering iron to create the holes in the yogurt containers.

The Setting

Does the climate in your region affect where you should grow your hydroponic system, and dictate if you should grow one at all? Climate is a relative term and is almost irrelevant to hydroponics. The reason being is that most hydroponic systems are set up indoors where the environment can be controlled and where certain parameters must be maintained, such as temperature, humidity, fresh air, light cycles, and solution nutrients.

We chose a closet in the garage, which is an area that is cool during summer months and is not in the way of daily activities. Our area consisted of a 48-inch shelf for our grow trays and a small area below it on the ground for our reservoir. Power was not available in the closet so we made our connection to power via an extension cord to a nearby outlet.

Rather than dig into soil, we're drilling into plastic. Preparations for our grow tray.

Rather than dig into soil, we're drilling into plastic. Preparations for our grow tray.

We started creating the system by making the large holes in the lid of the two grow trays with our cordless drill and a correctly sized hole-saw for the grow baskets, making sure that they seal tightly around the contact point of the basket and grow tray lid, blocking moisture from escaping and light from entering the grow tray. We offset the holes in alternating rows of three to leave as much structure in the lid as possible. Then we drilled two holes in the side of the container for the nutrient solution inlet and outlet. The inlet line (pumping from the reservoir) is near the center of the grow tray, while the return line (back to the reservoir) is closer to the top. This allows the solution to drain back to the reservoir when the level reaches the outlet. After we placed the fitting through the hole in the bin, we sliced off a small piece of tubing and placed one on each side of the fitting to help seal it. (If this process does not seal effectively, you can use silicone sealant as well.) Then we attach the tubing to the fittings and run them to the submersible pump.

The holes are for grow baskets, which can be purchased or made out of yogurt containers.

The holes are for grow baskets, which can be purchased or made out of yogurt containers.

One key step in the creation of the pump system is that we create a “T” in the pump line inside the reservoir with one tube going to the grow trays and the other back into the reservoir so the volume of fluid doesn't exceed the flow rate of the tubing. Since we will be using only two grow trays, we will have excess volume that needs to be diverted back into the reservoir so the grow trays do not overflow. This way, if we decide to add another grow tray or two, we don't need to add a pump or increase the capacity.

The next step is to create a hole in the side of the grow trays to accommodate the lines from the air stone in each grow tray from the double-outlet air pump.

We then start on our light board by removing the female end of the 15-foot extension cord and attach it to the first of the 12 ceramic light fixtures. That fixture is then attached to the light board approximately 2 inches from the edge. We measure over about 8 to 9 inches and get an idea of where our next figure will be placed. Once the distance between fixtures is established, we strip away the coating from the extension cord without cutting the wire itself. We attach each of the bare wires to their corresponding terminals providing continuity for the fixture.

This process is repeated for all 12 fixtures in three rows of four light fixtures per row. When complete, there should be approximately 3 feet of cord left with the male portion of the plug intact.

We added an inexpensive store-bought UPS (uninterruptable power supply) for backup power in the event of a power outage that should keep our plants safe. The UPS was designed for computers, and we attach all of our components — lights, nutrient pump, air pump, and gauges — to the UPS, which has a battery inside and automatically converts to battery power if the power to the UPS is interrupted.

drilling-hole-in-plastic-contiainer-for-water-valve

We drilled a hole in our grow tray for an inlet line of nutrient solution.

We drilled a hole in our grow tray for an inlet line of nutrient solution.

The Gardening

To start our seeds, we put paper towels in small plastic cups and add water to form a moist place to put our seeds. We place our seeds in the cups on top of the moist paper towels and put them in the windowsill to get some sun, making sure to keep the towels moist from day to day. Depending on the types of seeds, they should show signs of life within a few days. We take our soldering iron and get it hot and use it to make the holes in the yogurt containers, making our grow baskets. Of course, we could start the seeds in the grow baskets and leave them there for the entire process, but by starting them on the moist paper towels we can be sure they have roots before we put them in the baskets. We then take equal portion of the vermiculite and perlite medium and combine them so we get a 50/50 mixture for our grow baskets.

We then dilute our Botanicare Base, Bloom, and Cal Mag plus with the proper amount of water specified on the container for the individual need. Once the volume of the nutrient solution is established and combined in the reservoir, it's time to grow some food.

Push a finger into the combined vermiculite and perlite medium inside the grow basket, creating a recess to place the seedling with roots. Gently place the germinated seed into the recess and push a little of the combined medium over it so it isn't in direct light. Then scoop a little of the solution from the reservoir and pour a little of it into each of the grow baskets to make them moist. If there are any holes that are not being used, we can fill them by putting the covered yogurt containers with the black painted lids in the unused holes.

Once we have completed the above portion of the system, we attach an eyebolt into each corner of the light board. We then attach an eyebolt into the bottom of the shelf above our grow trays splitting the distance between the eyebolts of the light board. We then cut four equal pieces of paracord approximately 4 feet long and attach one of the ends to each eyebolt. We then route the two pieces of paracord from the left side eyebolts on the light board through the corresponding eyebolt above it and repeat this process for the right side as well. This way, you will be able raise or lower each corner of the light board as desired to get the light exactly where you want it for the individual plants growing in the system. We put two nails in each side of the shelf used to tie off the paracord at the desired height.

bib-lettuce-beginning-to-sprout

Keeping the lids from the grow trays containing the grow baskets aside, we power up the system verifying that nutrient solution is pumping from the reservoir into the grow trays and returning to the reservoir without leaking or overflowing.

Once we are confident that the system is performing as expected, we then place the lids on the grow trays containing our fledgling plants and lower the light board to the desired height. One of the benefits of the 12 CFL bulb lighting system is that we can put the lights where we want them and remove where we don't. While the plants are very young, we set the timer for 12 hours of light and place the light board fairly close to the surface, about 6 inches above the plants.

As the plants grow, we can extend the light time to simulate summer and move the light board up so it doesn't make contact with the plants.

The veggies of our labor. A bounty of lettuce grown from seedlings (above).

The veggies of our labor. A bounty of lettuce grown from seedlings (above).

In our experience, hydroponic gardening is not a perfect science, but science is definitely involved. It is very important to stay within the parameters with our nutrient solution by monitoring the pH meter and the nutrient meter. Optimum pH level ranges between 5.5 and 7.0. Of course, different species of plants or different varietals may like to be higher or lower in that range or even above or below it. But as a rule most plants will flourish in that range. The most effective way to manage pH levels is with commercially bought pH acids. There are home remedies used to adjust pH levels, but they require more volume and are not as precise. It's a simple procedure to test the pH of the solution and adjust by adding either pH down if it is too high or pH up if it is too low.

It's also important to know that the nutrient solution will need to be changed every 90 to 180 days, depending on the plants you're growing. As always, it will take some trial and error to get it right, so don't be too hard on yourself if it doesn't go right the first time. Keep at it and have fun. Next thing you know, you'll have a garden without soil and plenty of greens to supplement your family's meals.

The Components

gardening-supplies

Here's a list of items the author used to set up his hydroponics garden:

  • 18-gallon Sterilite storage bin for the solution reservoir
  • Two 10-gallon Sterilite stacker tote for grow trays (five cups in grow tray one and 12 cups in the other)
  • Submersible water pump
  • Aquarium air pump (with two air stones)
  • Timer for lights
  • Plywood for light system
  • Six eye bolts
  • 550 paracord
  • Extension cord for light fixtures
  • 12 light fixtures (six natural daylight 23-watt CFL bulbs and six soft white 23-watt CFL bulbs)
  • Tubing, fixtures, couplers for pumps
  • Vermiculite and Perlite grow medium
  • Base solution (4N-0P-0K)
  • Grow solution (2N-2P-2K)
  • Bloom solution (0N-6P-6K)

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Most beginners tend to focus on certain topics more than others — this is especially true with pH levels. Oftentimes we will hear someone say that their pH level was perfect, but their plants still died. While pH is a critical piece of the puzzle, it's still just one piece of the puzzle. There are many factors that need to be in balance for a successful system to provide the desired result.

The key components to a successful hydroponics system are:

  • Correct Levels: Keep your grow solution of NPK [nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) at correct levels.
  • Climate Balance: Keep your climate in check — not too hot, cold, dry, or humid.
  • Air Apparent: Allow your plants to get fresh air.
  • Change It Up: Change your solution after the grow cycle ends.
  • Think Green: Most importantly, try to think like nature and not like a scientist.
  • Chin Up: Lastly, don't take it personally if you make a mistake. Keep trying, and you'll grow with your garden.

Source

AB Growing Supplies & Hydroponics ≫ www.abgrowingsupplies.com

More From Issue 12

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 13

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

How to Strengthen Your Defenses – The Master Key

Written by

Photos by Q Concepts

WARNING!
The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only and not an endorsement for breaking and entering, which is a crime. Do not lock-pick without permission. Seek a reputable instructor for more information.

Bugging out is all the rage. There's bug-out gear for your bug-out bag all ready to be thrown into your bug-out vehicle. Bugging out sounds cool and sexy, but for the majority of people and situations, bugging out is Plan B. Blizzard? Drought? An EMP hit? Or terrorist attack in another part of the country? Yep, bugging in. Even when bugging out is necessary, it may not be possible. The roads may be clogged, your car's electronics might be fried, or a loved one or member of your survival group is injured and can't be moved.

Whenever sheltering-in-place, security of your residence or compound is paramount. Your home provides safety and stores your supplies. (See our Spring 2014 issue for “Household Survival,” a feature on emergency uses for commonplace items.) Sure, you have locks, a dog, and maybe even an alarm (if you're lucky enough to have electricity), but how easy are these systems to bypass? And how can you harden your security before, during, and after SHTF?

The best way to beef up your security system is to defeat it. That's where The CORE Group comes in.

In an OG exclusive, we attended the CORE Group's Covert Entry Concepts class hosted by Triple Aught Design (TAD). Held in San Francisco at TAD's headquarters, the CORE cadre provided hands-on instruction geared toward teaching the strengths and vulnerabilities of physical security solutions; how they are attacked and even bypassed completely. Students received a thorough understanding of the underlying mechanisms, including the tools and techniques, used to manipulate physical security barriers. We learned everything from picking common locks to improving defensive security at home and work.

According to our master-key mentors, Robert Pingor and Deviant Ollam, once you understand how locks and other security measures are breached (oftentimes easily and quickly), you will have the knowledge to harden the defenses in your daily life. After three days of mind-blowing fun, we bring you four key lessons we learned about protecting our home and the precious treasures inside.

Not all class time was spent sitting on our rear ends. Getting cuffed, thrown into the rear end of a car, and attempting to escape was also part of the CORE Group's class.

Not all class time was spent sitting on our rear ends. Getting cuffed, thrown into the rear end of a car, and...

Key One: Easy Pickings

In the story Ali Baba and the 40 Thieves (from One Thousand and One Nights) the thieves believed their stolen loot was completely safe because of a magic seal. Our hero, Ali Baba, overheard the secret of opening the magical cave. One simply had to say, “open sesame” and the magical cave would open up and divulge its treasures. This magic “lock” appeared impenetrable, yet a simple phrase opened it.

The same holds true with our home. The majority of us rely on locks to keep our families safe on the inside, and keep the bad guys on the outside. The locks on our doors and windows are simply illusions of security because, after just a couple of hours of instruction, we were able to pick common tumbler locks (found on most doors and padlocks) with simple tools anyone can buy online.

Lock picking is a skill that is easy to, ahem, pick up. Not only are the tools available online, but there are also videos and blogs online on how to pick all manner of locks. A search on YouTube revealed approximately 143,000 results for “lock picking.”

Gears of Door: All equipment to practice lock picking were supplied and participants went home with high-quality lock-picking tools.

Gears of Door: All equipment to practice lock picking were supplied and participants went home with high-quality...

Besides picking, another method of opening locks is called bumping (which has received a lot of press). Bumping involves a hammer and a special (yet readily available) bump key. Insert the bump key into the keyway, twist the key slightly, add a simple whack of the hammer, and voila — open sesame. The solution? Upgrade locks to pick- and bump-resistant ones. The resistant locks cost more, but have special mechanisms that make picking and bumping more difficult. This will deter less experienced lock pickers and slow down the more experienced ones. Getting ready for the apocalypse is expensive, so you might be tempted to skip on the better locks for a state-of-the-art power generator or the latest-and-greatest backpack. But what good are those items if marauders have defeated your dead bolts and can forcible take them at will? Upgrading locks and dead bolts is a wise investment for protecting you, your family, and your supplies.

Something else to consider when you're upgrading your locks is to look at the hinges on the exterior doors. If the hinges are on the outside, you have a problem. A burglar can simply remove the pins with very little skill and open the door. If you can't alter the hinges, change them to ones with non-removable pins.

Key Two: Onion Rings!

Front and back door locks are a good place to start, and layering your security will make thieves and looters look for an easier mark. Pingor states that, “each layer of security serves to deter or delay.” Think of your home as a fortress with concentric rings of security, like an onion. The more layers of defense and security, the better the protection. The closer to the center, the more complex the security system should become.

How many layers do you need? Pingor asks, “What is it you're trying to protect?” The more valuable your possessions, the more you want to spend. And, during a collapse of law and order, “valuables” could be your life and those of your loved ones.

So, here are some security layers to consider:

Community: Neighbors can be the first layer of defense. “DBAA rules apply here,” Ollam warns, referencing the Breaking Bad imperative of “Don't be an a-hole.” Be friendly and get to know those who live around you. Join the neighborhood watch or start one if you need to. Strength comes in numbers. There may be a doctor, nurse, police officer, or urban survival magazine editor just a few homes away. Getting help and support from the people around you will be critical when anarchy abounds. You never know what kind of skillsets are in your immediate surroundings unless you get out there and socialize. Neighbors looking out for each other act as the first layer in a security system.

De-Fence: The next layer is on the perimeter of your property. A fence can serve the purpose of defining your borders and keeping four-legged animals out. The two-legged variety will have a much easier time getting through. All barriers can be breached, and fences are often easily bypassed by humans. Regardless, having a fence is better than not. And if you're blessed to not have a homeowner's association, adding barbwire or electricity can be another layer of defense added to de fence (pun intended).

K9 Alert System: A guard dog can act as both a deterrent and an alarm. Your landlord doesn't allow dogs or you're allergic to canines? Put up a “beware of dog” sign and get a dog bowl to put outside. Make sure to buy the big kind, because a small 7-inch bowl for a Chihuahua will likely not strike terror in the heart of a potential intruder.

Security Alarm: Lights, camera, action! Count your lucky stars if electricity is still up during a crisis. If it is, having lights, cameras, and alarms around your compound is a big plus. Cockroaches and thieves hate the light, so have plenty of outdoor lighting. Afraid of a power outage? Solar-powered LEDs make sense for when the grid does go down. Installing security cameras will allow for monitoring of several areas from one location. CCTVs are now more affordable and can be monitored from a smartphone. Alarm systems can add another layer of early warning and help deter intruders. Be sure to place the alarm signs in obvious locations.

Ollam discusses the finer points of covert entry concepts at TAD headquarters in San Francisco.

Ollam discusses the finer points of covert entry concepts at TAD headquarters in San Francisco.

Window Shopping: Windows present a major security risk. While they allow us to see who's out there, they also let bad guys see inside. Plus, they're usually made of thin panes of glass. So be sure to review our Winter 2014 issue for the article titled “Securing Your Weakest Link” about how to fortify your windows against man and nature.

Arm the Safe (Room): Inside, equip your safe room with a solid-core door with a lock, a spare car remote if your car is close (so you can hit the panic button), some type of weapon (like a firearm, knife, pepper spray, etc.), a good flashlight, and a cell phone with charger.

What about valuables? Thieves know that the good stuff is often in the master bedroom and closet. Pingor recommends placing valuables in a shoebox, which goes in your kid's closet.

Key Three: To Err is Human

Yes, and to forgive, divine. Unfortunately, the only thing divine about errors during a SHTF scenario is meeting our maker. Having layers of security is useless once human error is introduced. “Having a $3-million security system is no good if you have a bad person monitoring it,” Pingor cautions. Humans are hardwired for errors, and Robert gives us examples.

Creatures of Habit: People typically have predictable patterns. According to Robert, humans are 93-percent predictable in regards to patterns of movement. As creatures of habit, we are reluctant to change these patterns and seldom deviate from our schedules. Once known, schedules can be exploited. Leaving our home, compound, or shelter at routine and predictable times leaves weaknesses in our security. Going to work, church, or gym consistently on the same days, times, and routes, creates predictability that bad guys can capitalize on. Leaving our EDC items such as keys and weapons in the same places creates vulnerabilities. Repetitive schedules and routes of guards or lookouts can also be exploited for attack.

Generally Lazy: Security SOPs and protocols may be abandoned in favor of convenience. Being lackadaisical by not locking the door or turning on the security system will make these systems useless. And what about monitoring the CCTV? According to Pingor, “You can watch four monitors for 12 minutes before you lose it.”

Multitasking: We can only do one thing well at a time. Studies show, the more tasks we try to perform at one time, the less efficient we are, and the more prone we are to making mistakes. It's difficult if the person in charge of security has to monitor the cameras and cook at the same time. The result will most likely be poor security and a burnt meal.

Security experts Robert Pingor and Deviant Ollam (right) establish that class is clearly not all work and no play.

Security experts Robert Pingor and Deviant Ollam (right) establish that class is clearly not all work and no play.

Not Observant: This one goes hand in hand with laziness. Just look around next time you go shopping and you will notice that situational awareness is rare in the general population. In public, most people keep their heads down and, as of late, eyes glued to their phones. Even when looking around, people are generally not aware.

The Solution: Take the creatures-of-habit error and leverage that into something useful. Make it a habit of locking doors, turning on alarms, focusing on a single task, being observant, and changing your schedule and routes (whenever you can). Correcting these mistakes is easier said than done — you can't exactly pick up your daughter from school two hours later than normal due to a change in “security protocols.” But in the long run it's worth the effort.

Key Four: Workplace Violence

We spend a large part of our life at work and blindly leave issues of security to management. With mass shootings making headlines, taking a hard look at the security at the office makes sense. It doesn't matter where you work (a school, movie theater, building, or small business), paying attention to the strengths and weaknesses in security protocols may save your life when a crisis unfolds.

how-to-strengthen-your-defenses-duct-tape-escape-class

Breaking free of duct tape is easier than you think...but not without consequence. Simply raise your fists above your head and swing them downward while separating your hands and letting your elbows pass your ribs. This escape technique could leave a mark.

Breaking free of duct tape is easier than you think…but not without consequence. Simply raise your fists above...

Consider the following next time you enter your workplace and keep in mind the weaknesses of human error, discussed previously.

  • What is the security culture at work? There is plenty of room for improvement if the security culture is simply locking the doors and dialing 911 ASAP.
  • Is there an open-door policy with security? Is management transparent and straightforward with the information?
  • Are there SOPs for security? If so, are they being adhered to?
  • Are doors locked when they are supposed to be? Pingor and Ollam point out that doors leading to outdoor break areas are often left open by pebbles, jammed into the corners out of convenience.
  • How quickly are fired employees spun out? A disgruntled ex-employee can be a potential source of danger. Security badges and keys need to be accounted for promptly when someone quits or is dismissed.

The Solution: Start with this list and if you see major flaws, address it with management. If nothing will or can be done, take it upon yourself to create a safety plan.

Key Points

As a prepper, taking courses from legitimate sources like the CORE Group at Triple Aught Design is highly recommended. Learning something useful, making friends and getting off the couch makes us happy. A week after the class, we're still smiling like a kid on Christmas morning every time we pick open our suitcase padlock. More importantly, though, is our changed outlook on home and work security.

During disasters like Hurricane Katrina or the L.A. riots, lawlessness was rampant. Effective security measures will help keep the bad guys out. No matter if you bug-out or decide to shelter in place (at work or home), plugging the holes in your security systems can save your life.

Lock-Picking Professors

Robert Pingor, chief of The CORE Group's Law Enforcement Division, has extensive training in both the government and private sectors. His policing and operations background was honed during his years at the National Security Agency, where he served with distinction in four different specialty units. He has instructed for countless military law enforcement agencies — from the State Department and the National Defense University to the U.S. Air Force and the U.S. Naval Academy. Additionally, he regularly conducts trainings for Black Hat, the SANS Institute, and other technical conferences.

While paying the bills as a security auditor and penetration testing consultant with The CORE Group, Deviant Ollam is also a member of the board of directors of the U.S. division of TOOOL (The Open Organisation of Lockpickers). Every year at the hacking conventions DEFCON and ShmooCon, Deviant runs the Lockpick Village. He has conducted physical security training sessions for a wide range of organizations, from the FBI and DARPA to Black Hat and DeepSec.

Cracking Open the Myths

Myth #1: I Only Need the Pick: In 2011's Tower Heist, a petty thief (played by Eddie Murphy) teaches Ben Stiller's group of misfits how to pick a lock. He hands everyone a bobby pin and tells them, “Earlier today I taught you all how to pick a lock with a bobby pin. I want y'all to practice on this door.” In the real world, Ben and his crew can practice all day and not open the lock with only a bobby pin. Hollywood often portrays opening locks with just a pick tool (commonly fabricated from a bobby pin, paper clip, or sunglasses). The bobby pin in this movie can be jimmied to act as a pick that pushes up the pins inside the lock, but there needs to be a second tool, called the turning tool. This tool (sometimes mislabeled a tension wrench) allows for the binding of the pins and the turning of the plug.

Myth #2: Pick-Proof Locks: All locks can be picked with enough time and the right amount of skill. Nothing is pick-proof. Still, the pick-resistant and bump-proof locks are worth the investment. According to Pingor, if the lock was able to delay the picker or force them to use a different attack (like breaking a window), the lock did its job.

Plenty of practice time was spent on picking and opening a variety of locks.

Plenty of practice time was spent on picking and opening a variety of locks.

Myth #3: I Can Practice on My Front Door: There are two golden rules of lock picking: do not pick any lock without the owner's permission and do not pick any locks in use. If the lock is used for security purposes (like the front door), do not pick it unless absolutely necessary. Picking locks can wear out the pins, or even render them inoperable, and you do not want this happening to any doors in use.

Myth #4: My Locks are Modern: The new lock on the door or filing cabinet may have a nice shiny sheen, but the basic mechanism inside dates back to 4000 B.C. in Egypt. The modern pin tumbler lock with double pins was awarded a patent way back in 1805. Found in doors and padlocks, the pin tumbler mechanism is the most common worldwide. The wafer tumbler lock is another mechanism. Utilized in filing cabinets, display cases, and cars, the wafer tumbler lock is the second most common mechanism in locks. It was patented in 1868, and people have been working to defeat them ever since.

Sources

The CORE Group – www.enterthecore.net
Triple Aught Design – www.tripleaughtdesign.com

More From Issue 12

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 13

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 11

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

How to Build a Six-Month Food Supply

Written by

You may find yourself asking, Six months of food? Do I really need that much? — especially when most people seem to be content with 72-hour go-bags and two-week disaster kits. But if you're reading a magazine like RECOIL OFFGRID, you already know why long-term food storage makes sense.

A Katrina-level natural disaster, an economic collapse, or another Sept. 11-style attack — these and any number of similar catastrophes could wipe out your normal resources for food. In these types of situations, you'd have to rely on your own reserves, or devolve into a hunter/gatherer (and there are no guarantees with that menu plan). But maybe your problems aren't so widespread. Perhaps you're just suffering a personal crisis, such as a job loss or an injury that prevents work. For any of these situations, building a food reserve becomes a valuable insurance policy — one that you can actually eat.

Pick Your Food Plan

“Plan your work, and work your plan.” A project like this can be a daunting task, so planning is one of the most important parts. You'll want to pay great attention to calorie content, methods of food preparation, storage conditions, and your own personal dietary restrictions. It's also helpful to plan out the meals and create a meal rotation. You don't need to plan 180 days of unique meals, but a two-week menu plan will give you some much-needed variety (unless you're buying a pallet of MREs or mixed, freeze-dried foods).

Finally, you'll need to decide which food preservation method best matches your plan. In this article, we'll look at four different approaches to building a food supply: MREs, freeze-dried food, canned goods, and dry goods.

1 MRE: Meals Ready to Eat (MREs) are a quick solution to build your food reserves, but they're expensive, bulky, and only last about five years. This approach is easy and no cooking is involved to prepare the food — it's truly “ready to eat” as the name declares. Each MRE contains approximately 1,400 calories, so two per day provides an average of 2,800 calories. You'll need 360 MREs (30 cases) for a six-month supply. For your daily ration, open up two MREs, pick through the contents to decide which items you want for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, then eat them when you'd like. Better MREs include a water-activated chemical heater, which would give you two hot meals a day. This is a great morale booster and perfect for those who are cooking-impaired.

Cost per day: $16
Cost for six months: $2,880, plus shipping (though discounts may be available for large orders)
Longevity: Five-plus years

how-to-build-a-six-month-food-supply-freeze-dried-food

2 Freeze-Dried Food: Mountain House and many other companies provide a wide selection of freeze-dried meals and food items. They're even more expensive than MREs, but may last up to five times longer. Freeze-dried foods generally require hot water to prepare, and they're as bulky as MREs (yet without the weight). They're available in serving-sized pouches, larger cans, and even buckets. Four pouches a day will be needed to reach 2,400 calories. Oddly enough, the No. 10 entree cans only contain about 2,000 calories each, yet cost over $30 apiece. The greatest asset to freeze-dried food is shelf life, with 25 years or more expected. You'll need about 180 cans or 720 pouches for a six-month food stash.

Cost per day: $25 to $35
Cost for six months: $4,500 to $6,300, plus shipping (though discounts may be available for large orders)
Longevity: 25-plus years

3 Canned Goods: Your average canned pasta, stew, and chili are more cost effective than MREs or freeze-dried food. They're typically ready to eat from the can without the need for extra water, and cans are insect and rodent proof. Canned goods do come with a few drawbacks, though. They're even heavier than MREs, and their life span is only about five years as well (maybe less for pop-top cans). Check the calorie count when planning meals with canned goods. You'll need at least five cans per day to reach 2,400 calories. Roughly 900 cans will provide you with a six-month food supply, and these are the easiest foods to work into your normal meals.

Cost per day: $10 to $15
Cost for six months: $1,800 to 2,700, with no shipping costs if purchased locally
Longevity: Five-plus years

4 Dry Goods and Grains: Cooking these foods and preparing palatable meals from them may be a bit of a challenge, but if you're familiar with cooking from scratch, this is the cheapest way to go. Dry pasta, rice, flour, dried beans, sugar, and many other staple foods can be stored for 30 years with negligible nutrient loss when properly packaged. They're also relatively easy to work into your regular meals. The drawbacks are that you'll need even more potable water than for freeze-dried foods, and you'll need to know how to cook. You can purchase these staples already packed in cans or buckets with oxygen absorbers and Mylar liners for maximum longevity. Or you can save a few dollars by buying the food in bulk and repacking it yourself. Depending on the staple food item, a 5-gallon bucket usually holds over 30 pounds of dry goods, which can represent over 40,000 calories. This means that 10 five-gallon buckets will hold enough staple foods for your six-month supply.

Cost per day: $2 to $5, depending greatly on your menu plan
Cost for six months: $360 to $900, with no shipping costs if purchased locally
Longevity: 30 years

Package Your Own Dry Goods

One of the easiest ways to package your food is in 5-gallon, food-grade buckets. If your budget allows, buy new 5-gallon buckets with regular lids. Purchase a few gamma (screw-on) lids as well, handy for accessing foods that will be used often, like sugar. If you're doing this project on a shoestring budget, ask for buckets from bakeries and restaurants — they may be free or only cost a few dollars a piece.

how-to-build-a-six-month-food-supply-dry-goods

The bucket alone is good, but to still have edible dry goods after 30 years, you'll also need Mylar storage bags and oxygen absorbers. Smaller bags and several 100cc absorbers are great for rationing the food and for modular storage. The large “bucket liner” bags and 2,000cc absorbers are perfect if you want to dump a big bag of grain into a bucket and call it done. You'll need a total of 1,500cc of absorbers as a minimum for one bucket of grain, flour, beans, or pasta. You won't need oxygen absorbers in sugar, honey, or salt. They don't go bad, and sugar and salt will become a solid brick from the oxygen absorber (still edible, but you'll need a chisel to chop them up). Once you've figured out which staple foods will be in your bucket, place the Mylar liner in the bucket (even if your food is in smaller packages with their own oxygen packs), and fill it near the top. Add oxygen absorbers to total at least 1,500cc for the entire 5-gallon bucket.

Press the liner bag together and expel any air you can. Lay a 2×4 board across the bucket and smooth out the bag mouth on top of it. Run a hot clothes iron across the bag opening to heat seal it (you could also seal the bag with a flat iron for hair; no need for the piece of wood). Seal the bucket lid tightly and store it in a safe storage spot.

Build a Dry-Goods Menu Plan

Staple foods are easy to plan, if you have a shopping list and a menu. Here's a very simple menu, and the accompanying shopping list, for a three-week food supply that fits in a single 5-gallon bucket. Put together 10 of these buckets, and your six-month food plan is covered. Although a bit bland and monotonous, this basic menu provides 2,500 calories a day and only requires boiling to prepare, no oven baking required (which may not be an option in a grid-down situation). Just make sure that the shortening is stored outside of the buckets and rotated annually, as it will spoil. When packed with oxygen absorbers in a sealed Mylar bag, all of these dry goods should last for two to three decades.

how-to-build-a-six-month-food-supply-mres

Three-Week Menu Plan

42 Lunches and Dinners

  • 10 Plain Rice
  • 10 Plain Beans
  • 10 Pesto Pasta
  • 12 Beans & Rice

21 Breakfasts

  • 7 Oatmeal
  • 7 Grits
  • 7 Cream of Wheat

Snacks

  • Hard candy
  • Sweetened beverages (tea, coffee, herb tea, etc.)

Shopping List for Each Three-Week Bucket

  • 5-pound spaghetti pasta
  • 11-pound white rice
  • 11-pound mixed beans
  • 2-pound sugar
  • 1-pound hard candy
  • 1-pound rolled oats
  • 1-pound corn grits
  • 1-pound cream of wheat
  • 5 packs of pesto pasta mix
  • 1 package of black tea, coffee, or herb tea
  • 2 sticks of butter-flavored shortening (not stored inside bucket)
  • Assorted salt, pepper, and dry seasonings as desired

Store it in the Right Spot

To get the maximum life span from your stored food, it's critical to store it in a food-friendly location in your home or bug-out site. The traits of a good food storage spot include the following:

  • Dark: Light can damage some foods and shorten their life span.
  • Cool: Heat is one of the most destructive forces to food. A few months in a hot garage or vehicle will drop the shelf life of your MREs to just a few months. Cool temperatures are critical to storage, and it's best if temps don't fluctuate.
  • Dry: Moisture can allow mold and bacteria to flourish in stored food. Pick a dry spot to begin with, and package your food to keep moisture out.
  • Protected From Pests: Hungry rodents can chew through MRE bags and plastic food buckets in a matter of minutes. Set mouse traps and rat traps around your food storage area. For greater security, place the food in metal containers like job site tool boxes, steel barrels, or metal garbage cans.

A dry basement, cool closet, or secure pantry works in most cases, though these are likely spots to be searched if looting occurs after a crisis cuts off your shopping trips. Consider mislabeling some bins of food or hiding food in floors, walls, ceilings, or furniture to give you a backup if your home is pillaged. Buckets buried in the flowerbed are another option in food security. Although this is more vulnerable to moisture and rodents, it offers protection from both house fires and theft. Use regular bucket lids when burying buckets.

It's All About the Calories

Consider 432,000 calories. In a world of dieting and calorie counting, this sounds like a huge number. But once you've done the research and the math, you'll see that this seemingly large number of calories only supports a sedentary man between the ages of 19 and 30 for a span of six months, using the USDA model of 2,400 calories a day. Sedentary females (and males that are younger or older) will require fewer calories, and of course active people will need a higher caloric intake. Calories should be your major concern when building a food storage system. Read the labels and add up the calories for yourself. Ignore the “servings per package” notations as they're often based on ridiculously small portions. For a short-term emergency, any food is better than none. But over a long-term crisis, a calorie deficit could have a major impact on your energy levels — and ultimately your survival.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistakes are a natural part of the learning curve, but mistakes in food storage can be disastrous, leaving you with an empty wallet and an empty belly. Learn from the failures of others, and avoid these blunders yourself.

  • Forget the water. Store several large containers of safe drinking water and the disinfection supplies to refill them over and over.
  • Store dry and wet together. Jugs of water, cans of wet food, and any other containers of liquid should always be stored
    outside of bins and buckets of food. If they leak, the food may get ruined and you wouldn't know it until you needed the food (and opened it). I recently learned this one the hard way — a jug of water leaked inside a bin of dry food and converted it into a bin of black mold.
  • Food expires? Write the expiration date on food cans and packages with a marker for easier inspection, and check your food seasonally for aging items.
  • Heap it up in a pile. Stock your pantry like a store does, placing new items in the back and pushing older items forward. This helps to create an easy rotation of goods.

A Basic Guide to First Aid Kits

Written by

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

Living in urban areas where medical help is only a phone call away makes it easy to take immediate first aid care for granted. The unfortunate reality is that when things go bad, these lifesaving services can be interrupted. Whether your medical need is for something as minor as a scraped knee or something as substantial as a broken arm, do you know what to do and have the supplies needed if professional help is not available?

You never know when a medical emergency is going to happen. For this reason, everyone should have at least basic knowledge of first aid and a first aid kit available at a moment's notice. Stick one in your home, workplace, car, and wherever else you frequent. In places with limited storage space such as a daily carried bag, having a travel-sized kit on hand is better than nothing. In the car, a small basic kit would work, and at home or work, a more substantial kit is ideal.

Having a kit is only half of it. Have you ever opened a first aid kit and realized other than the Band-Aids and aspirin, you really had no idea what was going on in there? If you're not a medical professional, you know what we mean. Bandages, gauze, compresses, and funny-shaped scissors, how are we supposed to use this stuff? Knowledge of how to use the kit properly is just as important as having it.

Basic First Aid Kit

Let's take a look at a basic kit and break down what each item is used for. Because there are so many kits on the market, nailing down a “basic” kit can be a task unto itself. We'll go with what The Red Cross recommends for inclusion in a first aid kit.

There are plenty of first aid kits on the market that cover the basic needs in the above list and much more. Remember that the overall size of the kit also limits how many people it can treat and its duration of use, as well. Now that we know what we need, let's take a look at what each item is and what it is used for.

basic-guide-to-first-aid-kits

Inventory & Expiration Dates

Mark your kits with the date that they were manufactured or put together, and remember to update expired items regularly. We recommend checking your kits once a year to make sure everything is accounted for. It's easy to forget that you may have grabbed a Band-Aid or a pack of aspirin from it. It's important to remember to replace any missing items before you forget.

Customize Your Kit

When looking for a store-bought kit or choosing what goes into a kit you build yourself, it is important to take into account any particular needs that you and your family may need. If anyone may be allergic to certain medications such as aspirin, be sure to substitute or add other meds such as ibuprofen, instead. But, don't play the guessing game; consult your doctor to see what works for you and your family member's particular medical condition and go with that.

Customize your first aid kit to include any prescription drugs that you and your family may need. Include any other personalized items, such as asthma, diabetes, and allergy meds that you will need in an emergency.

absorbant-compress-dressings

01 Absorbent Compress Dressings:
Compress dressings help promote blood clotting to stop bleeding. Use them by pressing the dressing against a wound to help stop blood loss.

adhesive-bandages

02 Adhesive Bandages:
Adhesive bandages, also known as Band-Aids, are useful to help cover minor cuts and scrapes. They come in different shapes and sizes for general and specific applications. Their adhesive qualities mean that they can be self-applied.

adhesive-cloth-tape

03 Adhesive Cloth Tape:
Adhesive cloth tape has many uses, including being applied to non-adhesive bandages to adhere them in place, being taped over a bandage to create pressure over a wound, and being used for making a splint.

antibiotic-ointment

04 Antibiotic Ointment:
An antibiotic ointment, like Neosporin, protects wounds against infections and bacteria, and it promotes faster healing. Apply as directed.

antiseptic-wipe-packets

05 Antiseptic Wipe Packets:
Use antiseptic wipes to clean cuts and other wounds prior to dressing them.

aspirin

06 Aspirin:
Aside from pain relief, aspirin is also good to have on hand for those suffering a heart attack. If you do use it for a heart attack, be sure that it is chewed instead of it being swallowed whole.

space-blanket

07 Space Blanket:
Space blankets have many uses that include keeping one's body warm, minimizing the loss of moisture, and creating makeshift shelters, since they are usually windproof and waterproof.

breathing-barrier

08 Breathing Barrier:
A breathing barrier prevents the direct contact of a patient's mouth and nose during mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.

instant-cold-compress

09 Instant Cold Compress:
To ease swelling, fever, and treat injuries to soft tissue such as sprains, strains, and bruises, apply a cold compress. Instant cold compresses are activated by simply squeezing and shaking them.

non-latex-gloves

10 Non-Latex Gloves:
Gloves add a layer of protection for the person giving first aid care by protecting them from blood pathogens that a patient might carry. The Red Cross recommends a large-size glove, so that they will easily fit on anyone who needs to use them.

hyrdrocortisone

11 Hydrocortisone Ointment:
For skin irritation that is caused by bug bites, poison ivy, and rashes, apply some hydrocortisone ointment for relief.

bandage-scissors

12 Bandage Scissors:
Special curved blade bandage scissors allow you to safely cut bandages, gauze, and cloth tape without cutting your patient.

roller-bandages

13 Roller Bandages:
A roller bandage can be employed to help cover a greater surface area than a smaller adhesive bandage can. Used alongside sterile gauze and cloth tape, this type of bandage can be applied as a pressure dressing to help slow or stop blood flow from a larger wound.

sterile-gauze-pads

14 Sterile Gauze Pads:
Sterile gauze has very little lint and is used to treat minor wounds. They absorb excess blood and other fluids and can be used to clean wounds.

oral-thermometer

15 Oral Thermometer:
It's best not to guess what temperature someone is running. Have a thermometer on hand.

triangular-bandages

16 Triangular Bandages:
The three-cornered bandage can be used as an arm sling or as a large bandage.

tweezers

17 Tweezers:
Tweezers are a general-use tool for jobs such as taking out splinters and cleaning out debris from wounds.

first-aid-instruction-booklet

18 First Aid Instruction Booklet:
Since most of us aren't trained medical professionals, a first aid guide is good to have on hand for instructions on how to handle first aid emergencies.

First Aid Knowledge

It is a good idea to get some training on how to properly administer first aid and CPR. The American Red Cross offers classes in various disciplines of first aid, including First Aid Basics, Emergency Medical Response, First Responder in the Workplace, and even Dog and Cat First Aid. To find a class in your area, visit http://www.redcross.org/take-a-class.

Pre-Built First Aid Kit Buyer's Guide

All prices listed are deemed accurate at the time of writing. Each kit featured may include different items than shown, please check the contents of the kits prior to making your purchase.

A Basic Guide to First Aid Kits

  • Adventure Medical Kits Family First Aid

    Make & Model - Adventure Medical Kits Family First Aid
    Approximate Dimensions - 8 x 6.5 x 3 in
    Weight - 1 lb
    Features - If you need to look out for the little ones in your life, take a look at the Family First Aid kit. It includes the booklet, Caring for Children in the Outdoors, a comprehensive guide to first-aid for children, covering topics such as how to treat sprains, fractures, and dislocations, plus handy guides on how to administer medications and how to dress more serious wounds. It's suitable for a family of four for one to four days.
    MSRP - $30
    URL - http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com
    Supply List - Bandage Materials
    16 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, 1 x 3 in
    1 Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, 2 x 4-1/2 in
    4 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
    12 Bandages, Adhesive, Plastic, 3/8 x 1-1/2 in
    4 Bandages, Butterfly Closure
    4 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 4 x 4 in, Pkg./2
    2 Dressing, Non-Adherent, Sterile, 2 x 3 in
    Bleeding
    1 Gloves, Nitrile (Pair), Hand Wipe Blister / Burn
    1 Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
    Fracture / Sprain
    1 Bandage, Elastic with Clips, 2 in
    1 Cold Pack
    Instrument
    2 Safety Pins
    1 Scissors, Bandage with Blunt Tip
    1 Splinter Picker/Tick Remover Forceps
    2 Thermometers, Disposable
    Medical Information
    1 Caring for Children in the Outdoors manual
    Medication
    3 Acetaminophen (500 mg), Pkg./2
    3 Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
    3 Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    Other
    1 After Bite Kids, Tube
    2 Natrapel 8 Hour Tick & Insect Repellent Wipe Wound Care
    12 After Cuts & Scrapes Antiseptic Wipes
    1 Cotton Tip Applicator, Pkg./2
    1 Tape, 1/2 in x 10 yd
    4 Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Single Use

    If you need to look out for the little ones in your life, take a look at the Family First Aid kit. It includes the booklet, Caring for Children in the Outdoors, a comprehensive guide to first-aid for children.

  • Adventure Medical Kits Mountain Series Medical Kit Weekender

    Make & Model - Adventure Medical Kits Mountain Series Medical Kit Weekender
    Approximate Dimensions - 9 x 7 x 3.5 in
    Weight - 1 lb, 7.8 oz
    Features - More comprehensive than the other kits in this guide, the Weekender covers one to six people for seven days. The case is organized and packed full of supplies such as four different kinds of medicines and a comprehensive travel medicine guide. It is recommended by Adventure Medical Kits for three-day emergency kits.
    MSRP - $60
    URL - http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com
    Supply List - Bandage Materials
    5 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, 1 x 3 in
    5 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
    2 Bandages, Conforming Gauze, 3 in
    2 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 2 x 2 in, Pkg./2
    2 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 4 x 4 in, Pkg./2
    2 Dressing, Non-Adherent, Sterile, 3 x 4 in
    Bleeding
    1 Gloves, Nitrile (Pair), Hand Wipe
    1 Instructions, Easy Care Bleeding
    1 Trauma Pad, 5 x 9 in
    Blister / Burn
    1 GlacierGel (Large Oval)
    11 Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
    CPR
    1 CPR Face Shield, Laerdal
    Duct Tape
    1 Duct Tape, 2 in x 5 yd
    Fracture / Sprain
    1 Bandage, Elastic with Velcro, 3 in
    1 Bandage, Triangular
    1 Instructions, Easy Care Fracture & Sprain
    Instrument
    1 EMT Shears, 4 in
    1 Pencil
    3 Safety Pins
    1 Splinter Picker/Tick Remover Forceps
    3 Thermometer, Disposable
    Medical Information
    1 Comp. Guide to Wilderness & Travel Medicine
    1 Patient Assessment Form
    Medication
    2 Acetaminophen (500 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
    1 Aspirin (325 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    1 Instructions, Easy Care Medications
    Wound Care
    6 After Cuts & Scrapes Antiseptic Wipes
    1 Cotton Tip Applicator, Pkg./2
    1 Instructions, Easy Care Wound
    1 Povidone Iodine, 3/4 oz
    1 Syringe, Irrigation, 20 cc, 18-Gauge Tip
    1 Tape, 1 in x 10 yd
    2 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
    1 Wound Closure Strips, 1/4 x 4 in, Pkg./10

    More comprehensive than the other kits, the Weekender covers one to six people for seven days. The case is organized and packed full of supplies such as four different kinds of medicines and a comprehensive travel medicine guide.

  • Adventure Medical Kits Travel Medic

    Make & Model - Adventure Medical Kits Travel Medic
    Approximate Dimensions - 5.5 x 4.5 x 1.75 in
    Weight - 2.7 oz
    Features - Very light weight and compact, this tiny kit has everything to treat pain, fever, upset stomach, minor injuries, and even blisters. It's perfect to keep in a backpack or a purse.
    MSRP - $10
    URL - http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com
    Supply List - Bandage Materials
    4 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, 1 x 3 in
    1 Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
    2 Bandages, Butterfly Closure
    Blister / Burn
    1 GlacierGel (Large Oval)
    11 Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
    Instrument
    2 Safety Pins
    Wound Care
    3 After Cuts & Scrapes Antiseptic Wipes
    3 Alcohol Swabs
    1 Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Single Use
    Medication
    2 Acetaminophen (500 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Antacid, Pkg./2
    2 Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
    2 Diamode (Loperamide HCI 2 mg), Pkg./1
    2 Diotame (Bismuth Subsalicylate), Pkg./2
    2 Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    Other
    2 Wash-Up Towelettes

    Very light weight and compact, the Adventure Medical Kits Travel Medic kit has everything to treat pain, fever, upset stomach, minor injuries, and even blisters. It's perfect to keep in a backpack or a purse.

  • Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight / Watertight Medical Kit .5

    Make & Model - Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight / Watertight Medical Kit .5
    Approximate Dimensions - 5 x 6.5 x 1.5 in
    Weight - 4.4 oz
    Features - This extremely light weight kit is enclosed in a watertight pouch. Intended for the outdoors adventurer, this kit is perfect for those who live in wet-weather areas. Light and small enough to fit just about anywhere, this kit is outfitted to treat common injuries.
    MSRP - $17
    URL - http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com
    Supply List - Bandage Materials
    4 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, 1 x 3 in
    2 Bandages, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
    2 Bandages, Butterfly Closure
    1 Bandage, Conforming Gauze, 2 in
    2 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 2 x 2 in, Pkg./2
    2 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 3 x 3 in, Pkg./2
    1 Dressing, Non-Adherent, Sterile, 3 x 4 in
    Blister / Burn
    1 Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
    Instrument
    2 Safety Pins
    1 Splinter Picker/Tick Remover Forceps
    Medication
    2 After Bite Wipes
    2 Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
    1 Aspirin (325 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    Wound Care
    3 After Cuts & Scrapes Antiseptic Wipes
    3 Alcohol Swab 1 Tape, 1/2 in x 10 yd
    1 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
    2 Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Single Use

    The Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight/Watertight Medical Kit is an extremely light weight kit enclosed in a watertight pouch. Intended for the outdoors adventurer, this kit is perfect for those who live in wet-weather areas.

  • Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight / Watertight Medical Kit .9

    Make & Model - Adventure Medical Kits Ultralight / Watertight Medical Kit .9
    Approximate Dimensions - 9 x 5.5 x 2.5 in
    Weight - 8.9 oz
    Features - This kit is designed to withstand exposure from the elements. With two individual Dryflex bags inside an outer seam-sealed siliconized nylon bag with water-resistant zipper, this kit is made to be waterproof. Inside, you'll find enough first aid gear for one to four people on trips as long as four days. This kit includes everything from wound-closure strips to duct tape in a flexible, compact package.
    MSRP - $36
    URL - http://www.adventuremedicalkits.com
    Supply List - Bandage Materials
    5 Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, 1 x 3 in
    3 Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
    1 Bandage, Conforming Gauze, 3 in
    2 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 2 x 2 in, Pkg./2
    3 Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 3 x 3 in, Pkg./2
    2 Dressing, Non-Adherent, Sterile, 3 x 4 in
    Bleeding
    1 Gloves, Nitrile (Pair), Hand Wipe
    1 Trauma Pad, 5 x 9 in
    Blister / Burn
    2 Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
    Duct Tape
    1 Duct Tape, 2 x 50 in
    Fracture / Sprain
    1 Bandage, Elastic with Velcro, 2 in
    Instrument
    3 Safety Pins
    1 Splinter Picker/Tick Remover Forceps
    Medication
    2 After Bite Wipes
    3 Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
    1 Aspirin (325 mg), Pkg./2
    4 Diamode (Loperamide HCI 2 mg), Pkg./1
    4 Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    Wound Care
    6 After Cuts & Scrapes Antiseptic Wipes
    3 Alcohol Swabs
    1 Cotton Tip Applicator, Pkg./2
    1 Syringe, Irrigation, 10 cc, 18 Gauge Tip
    1 Tape, 1 in x 10 yd
    1 Tincture of Benzoin Topical Adhesive
    4 Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Single Use
    1 Wound Closure Strips, 1/4 x 4 in, Pkg./10

    This Adventure Medical kit is designed to withstand exposure from the elements. With two individual Dryflex bags inside an outer seam-sealed siliconized nylon bag with water-resistant zipper, this kit is made to be waterproof.

  • Johnson & Johnson All Purpose First Aid Kit

    Make & Model - Johnson & Johnson All Purpose First Aid Kit
    Approximate Dimensions - 10 x 7 x 3 in
    Weight - 1 lb
    Features - Featuring an organizational hard case, this kit's focus is on cuts and scrapes and is packed full of Band-Aids and bandages. The spacious case leaves room for you to customize the kit by adding other supplies such as tools and medications.
    MSRP - $9.99
    URL - http://www.target.com
    Supply List - 1 First Aid Guide
    3 Cleansing Wipes 5 x 7-3/4 in
    2 Non-Sterile Disposable Gloves (1 pair)
    14 Band-Aid Brand Adhesive Bandages Sheer Strip, 7/8 x 7/8 in
    34 Band-Aid Brand Adhesive Bandages Sheer Strip, 5/8 x 2-1/4 in
    30 Band-Aid Brand Adhesive Bandages Sheer Strip, 3/4 x 3 in
    2 Band-Aid Brand Adhesive Bandages Sheer Strip, 2-1/4 x 3 in
    15 Band-Aid Brand Fabric Adhesive Bandages, 5/8 x 2-1/4 in
    10 Band-Aid Brand Fabric Adhesive Bandages, 3/4 x 3 in
    5 Band-Aid Brand Fabric Adhesive Bandages, 1 x 3 in
    8 Johnson & Johnson RED CROSS Gauze Pads, 2 x 2 in
    10 Band-Aid Brand Adhesive Bandages Butterfly Closures, 1-3/4 x 3/8 in
    1 Coach Instant Cold Pack
    2 Neosporin Ointment (1/32 oz.)
    1 Johnson & Johnson Red Cross Brand Tape

    The spacious case of the Johnson & and Johsnon All Purpose First Aid Kit leaves room for you to customize the kit by adding other supplies such as tools and medications.

  • Johnson & Johnson Safe Travels First Aid Kit

    Make & Model - Johnson & Johnson Safe Travels First Aid Kit
    Approximate Dimensions - 6 x 5.5 x 1.75 in
    Weight - 6.7 oz
    Features - Targeted more for cuts and scrapes, this first aid kit is encased in a protective hard case and is a little more basic than other kits.
    MSRP - $9.99
    URL - http://www.drugstore.com
    Supply List - Clean
    6 Johnson & Johnson Cleansing Wipes
    Treat
    4 Neosporin First Aid Antibiotic Ointment, 0.03 oz.
    Protect
    8 Johnson & Johnson Gauze Pads, (Four 2-packs), 2 x 2 in
    5 Band-Aid Brand Flexible Fabric Adhesive Bandages, 1 x 3 in
    10 Band-Aid Brand Flexible Fabric Adhesive Bandages, 3/4 x 3 in
    15 Band-Aid Brand Flexible Adhesive Bandages, 5/8 x 2-1/4 in
    21 Band-Aid Brand Sheer Strips Adhesive Bandages, 1 x 3 in

    Targeted more for cuts and scrapes, the Johnson & Johnson Safe Travels First Aid Kit is encased in a protective hard case and is a little more basic than other kits.

  • REI Backpacker Plus Multiday First Aid Kit

    Make & Model - REI Backpacker Plus Multiday First Aid Kit
    Approximate Dimensions - 5.75 x 7 x 3 in
    Weight - 13 oz
    Features - Made to cover four backwoods adventurers for five days, this kit is compact and comprehensive, and it should easily cover a small group's minor injuries in the event of an urban disaster. The kit is contained in a durable pack cloth nylon zipper bag and includes The Wilderness First Aid Manual by Dr. William Forgey for quick reference.
    MSRP - $33.50
    URL - http://www.rei.com
    Supply List - Medications
    2 Nutralox, Mint Antacid, Pkg./2
    2 Propinal, Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Cetafen, Acetaminophen (325 mg), Pkg./2
    2 Histaprin, Diphenhydramine (25 mg)
    2 Pill Vial with Label
    Ointments/Wipes
    4 Triple Antibiotic Ointment Packets
    3 Sting Relief Wipes
    3 BZK Antibacterial Towelettes
    3 Povidone-Iodine Wipes
    1 Antimicrobial Hand Wipe
    Wraps/Splints
    1 Cloth Tape, 1 in x 10 yd
    1 Elastic Bandage, 2 in
    Wound Care
    5 Adhesive Bandages, 3/4 x 3 in
    5 Adhesive Bandages, 1 x 3 in
    4 Fingertip Adhesive Bandages
    4 Knuckle Adhesive Bandages
    4 Butterfly Closure
    1 Sterile Stretch Gauze, 2 in x 4.1 yd
    1 ABD Combine Pad, 5 x 9 in
    4 Sterile Gauze Pad, 2 x 2 in
    3 Sterile Gauze Pad, 3 x 3 in
    1 Non-Adherent Pad, 2 x 3 in
    1 Non-Adherent Pad, 3 x 4 in
    2 Sterile Top Sponges, 4 x 4 in, Pkg./2
    2 Moleskin, 3 x 4 in
    Tools
    1 Bandage Scissors
    1 Splinter Forceps
    3 Safety Pins
    Other
    1 Wilderness First Aid Manual
    1 Pencil
    1 Accident / Evaluation Record
    1 Latex-Free Medical Gloves
    1 Resealable Waste Bag, 8 x 10 in

    Made to cover four backwoods adventurers for five days, the REI Backpacker Plus Multiday First Aid Kit is compact and comprehensive, and it should easily cover a small group's minor injuries in the event of an urban disaster.

Lights Out: Chokehold Basics for Self-Defense

Written by

WARNING!
The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Chokeholds are inherently dangerous and can potentially be fatal. Seek a reputable instructor before attempting any techniques discussed or shown here.

Any true Rowdy Roddy Piper fan knows that the sleeper hold — aka a chokehold — can put people to sleep. And fans of mixed martial arts and action movies are keenly aware that it can possibly even kill them. But is it really that easy to apply? And how can it help you when SHTF?

Well, for starters, we need not wait for an EMP attack, nuclear fallout, or a zombie apocalypse to experience fecal matter going for a whirl. The following three scenarios illustrate that danger could happen at any time in our everyday lives — and why learning to apply a choke is no joke.

August 21, 2015: A terrorist — armed with at least an AK-47, nine magazines, and a box cutter — on a high-speed train from Amsterdam to Paris could have meant only one thing: carnage. Lucky for the passengers, Spencer Stone and his two buddies were onboard. Stone, a U.S. airman, tackled the terrorist and put him in a chokehold while his two friends and a British passenger disarmed and pummeled the bad guy unconscious. Loss of life that day? Zero.

April 13, 2011: After teaching a class, martial arts instructor Pedro Arrigoni witnessed a police officer getting punched in the face and then mounted on the ground, right outside his San Francisco school. Arrigoni quickly went outside and jumped into the fray, sinking in a chokehold on the thug. Within seconds, the attacker yelled, “I give up! I give up!” before being taken into custody by the officer.

December 30, 2009: Drew Heredia, a 9-year-old boy from Bakersfield, California, witnessed a dog attacking his friend and came to the rescue. The dog, a mix of pit bull, Shar Pei, and Rottweiler, was restrained by … wait for it … a chokehold. Drew reportedly held the dog at bay for 20 minutes until an animal control officer arrived on the scene to take over.

Three hazardous scenarios. Three different individuals. All survived. What they had in common was training in Brazilian jiu-jitsu and knowledge of the chokehold. “Training and knowledge saves the day,” is the mantra for the serious student of the survival game. Therefore, we're delving into the topic of chokes and submissions to give you a fighting chance when SHTF. Whether you're a martial artist interested in a review of fundamentals or a prepper looking to add to your empty-hand arsenal, you'll no doubt find some valuable — perhaps life-saving — information in these pages.

The Advantages

Using a chokehold has many advantages. Take note of the following benefits when using this effective technique.

Out Cold: Chokes are a high-percentage way to put people to sleep. Once the hold is in place, siesta for the bad guy is only moments away.

Damage Free: By using a chokehold, you may subdue and incapacitate an attacker with no damage to your hands. Punching someone in an altercation may lead to fractures of the carpal bones. Broken bones in the hand is a major setback, especially if you need to operate a weapon or build a fire, or if you find yourself in a situation where medical attention is scarce.

Restrain and Control: Controlling the neck leads to control of the body. This essentially makes the chokehold a leash on steroids.

Shielding: Once behind your attacker with a choke locked on, the attacker can now shield you from other threats. The choke acts as your virtual joystick to ragdoll your attacker into positions that protect you. Although the human body may not be bulletproof, it makes a great shield against punches, kicks, blunt, and bladed weapons.

Confined Areas: Fighting inside a car, a closet, or any confined space makes throwing a strike difficult. Chokeholds require zero space.

On Lockdown: Escaping Alcatraz was no easy task; same goes with escaping a good chokehold. Escape is difficult because few people practice escaping from chokeholds on a regular bases.

The Disadvantages

Strangling is a great way to end a fight, but it does have limitations. Beware of the following shortcomings when applying a choke.

Look, Ma, No Hands: Most chokes require two hands to be effective (there is a “one arm” choke, but leave that to the professionals). Because both hands are occupied, other options needing the use of your hands become limited. For example, aforementioned train hero Stone was cut and stabbed by the terrorist's box cutter while applying the chokehold. If you need to access a weapon or push a loved one out of harm's way, you'll have to give up the choke (but not necessarily the control of the opponent).

Too Close for Comfort: If distance is your friend, you just lost a buddy. Acting like an anaconda on someone's back creates instant intimacy. Therefore, use chokes when escape is not an option.

Armed and Dangerous: There may be fatal consequences if your opponent pulls out a knife or a gun during your chokehold. You may need to abandon the choke, and deal with the weapon threat first.

Coming Back: To secure a choke, you must be behind your intended victim. You can either sneak up on them or move to that position. During a fight, it may be difficult to get behind someone. But, once you're glued to your opponent's back, you will have the upper hand.

Deadly Outcome: Chokes can have fatal consequences if done incorrectly, or applied for too long. Because of a chokehold's lethality, it's important to treat any chokehold as a deadly weapon. Certain police departments frown on the use of chokes (what they label the carotid restraint or arm-bar) because of rare, fatal results and bad press. Like any other lethal weapon, chokes are dangerous tools and should be trained under the guidance of a qualified instructor — and used only during life-and-death situations.

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Administering the Sleeper

There are many ways to put a person to sleep. Below are the most common, street-effective chokeholds that can put down just about anyone.

Fantastic Figure Four: The figure-four, rear naked choke (RNC) is arguably the most common method used in martial arts and military combatives. This type of choke has been used effectively for centuries. Because this sleeper hold does not use the collar of a jacket for strangulation (commonly seen in judo or jiu-jitsu matches), it is called a rear “naked” choke.

The most common way to apply the RNC is the figure-four grip. To apply the figure-four RNC, position yourself behind your opponent, reach across their throat with an arm. You want the crook of your elbow right in front of the opponent's trachea. Keep your forearm off the trachea unless you want to do permanent damage. Your bicep and forearm will be on the sides of the opponent's neck. Place the palm of the initial arm into the elbow fold of your free arm. Finally, place the hand of your second arm behind your opponent's neck. The move is now complete, and you can squeeze your opponent into dreamland. Think of this move like a nutcracker with your elbow as the hinge. You are looking to reduce the space between your forearm and bicep.

Get a Grip: Another variation of the figure-four choke is the palm-to-palm or Gable Grip, named after legendary grappler Dan Gable. The application of the palm-to-palm choke is the same as above, but, instead of making a figure-four with your arm, you simply grip palm to palm. Resort to this grip when your opponent does not allow you to set in the full figure-four grip.

The figure-four and Gable Grip chokes are commonly used as a blood choke or carotid restraint. This means the pressure is applied to the sides of the neck to cut off blood flow to the brain.

Crushing It: The third method uses the same two grips described above with one minor, but important, difference. Normally, contact is made with your bicep and forearm on the sides of your opponent's throat. This time, the forearm that is around your opponent's neck, is touching the opponent's windpipe. Contacting your forearm (what the police departments call an “arm bar control”) on the opponent's windpipe (larynx and trachea) can leave permanent damage, including death. Use with caution!

Anatomy of the Choke

So how does a chokehold put someone to sleep? Time to channel your inner Bill Nye the Science Guy, because we're going to describe three mechanisms that bring on the Sandman.

Blood Choke Mechanism: With the proper grip, the jugular veins are compressed initially. The jugulars are more superficial, which makes them “vain.” Venous flow from the brain to the body is the first to be stopped. This accounts for the initial flushing of the face in someone being choked. Further pressure, compresses the carotid arteries. The carotid arteries are more internal than the jugular veins and, therefore, require more pressure. One German study reported that, correct pressure from a chokehold can completely compress and occlude the carotid arteries of the neck. Unconsciousness results in about 10 seconds. No blood to the brain is like having the electricity turned off to your home — lights out.

Carotid Sinus Mechanism: The second mechanism toward unconsciousness is stimulation of the carotid sinus. The carotid sinus on the sides of the neck monitors blood pressure to the brain. When too much pressure is sensed by the carotid sinus, a message is sent to balance out the increased spike in pressure. The result is a drop in blood pressure and bradycardia (a slowing of the heart rate). Less blood to the brain, equals less consciousness — or nighty, night.

Collapsing the Airway Mechanism: Collapsing the airway by placement of your forearm on the opponent's windpipe is the third way to induce unconsciousness. Force directly applied on the thyroid cartilage (a part of the larynx, aka the Adam's apple) as well as the trachea (just below the larynx) can result in a collapse or fracture of the cartilage(s). Roughly 66 pounds of rope tension is required to collapse the trachea. Because of the extra strength required (66 pounds to collapse the airway versus 11 pounds to seal off the arteries), collapsing the airway is more difficult to do, especially for small or arthritic folks. Still, the possibility of fracture makes this a stone-cold chokehold with potentially fatal outcomes. Use with extreme caution.

All Choked Up

Knowledge to protect yourself and your loved ones without any weapons is just as important as the knowledge to survive in the wilderness without any tools. During a confrontation, you may not have much on you other than your clothes, and what you were born with. Even if you're lucky enough to be armed during a critical incident, accessing your weapons system in certain situations may take too long. You might just have to go at it empty-handed.

To be a well-rounded prepper, experience in some sort of martial art or combative system is a must. The addition of chokes to your toolbox may be the checkmate move that saves the day on a train, in the streets, or even against a crazed animal.

Fantastic Figure Four

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Diego Herzog — a silver medalist at the 2015 Pan-American Jiu-Jitsu Championship — shows how it is done. “Slide your hand behind their neck,” Herzog advises. “This way they cannot arm-bar you.” The victim of the choke shown here, Ricky Hui, adds, “I almost passed out during this shot. I felt a lot of forward pressure on my head and a pulling on my neck, like a scissor.”

Get a Grip

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chokehold-basics-gable-grip-choke-002

Diego Herzog demonstrates the palm-to-palm or Gable Grip choke. Note how the top hand is palm down and the second hand that is behind the opponent is palm up. Imagine your arm is a nutcracker with your elbow as the hinge and get cracking.

Crushing It

chokehold-basics-palm-to-palm-choke

Standing behind his opponent, Herzog jams his forearm under Ricky's chin. Here Diego uses the Gable Grip to collapse the airway. The figure-four grip could have been used just as well.

Knocking Out Chokehold Myths

Chokes Require a Lot of Strength: Blood chokes require skill and knowledge, not strength. When applied correctly, a young teenager can put a grown man to sleep within seconds. One study found that occlusion of the carotid arteries requires only 11 pounds of rope tension. This makes chokes an extremely important self-defense technique, since little force is required.

Escaping a Choke is Easy: That's right, a good old poke to the eye will end the choke fast and make Larry, Curly, and Moe proud. However, a skilled martial artist will simply hide the eyes. What about a bite? Biting is difficult when the arm is already under the jaw and the eyes are fading to black.

chokehold-basics-choke-escape

Against an eye-jab counterattack, the author simple hides his eyes behind his arm. Now that Conrad Bui is safe and can maintain the choke, his opponent will soon be getting some shut-eye.

Against an eye-jab counterattack, the author simple hides his eyes behind his arm. Now that Conrad Bui is safe and can...

Chokes Work the Same on Everyone: Because of genetics, some people are more susceptible to chokes than others. This author has observed people being put to sleep during a demonstration in class. Some people simply nap faster than others once a chokehold is applied.

Chokes are Safe: Chokes are potentially lethal. People die from chokes. Therefore, treat strangulation techniques with the same respect as you would a knife or a gun. Never play around with chokes or apply a choke unless your life is in danger.

Watching the UFC is the Same as Learning the RNC: Watching someone applying the choke on screen from the comfort of our La-Z-Boy recliner is much different than applying it against a resisting opponent. To use the choke when it counts, get the correct instruction and training from a qualified instructor.

The Choke's on You

The choke is a dangerous, possibly lethal weapon. What do you do if someone slapped one on you? Here are two simple yet effective escapes.

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Early Detection: Scott Stroup makes the mistake of telegraphing his attack by extending his right arm instead of snaking it around Conrad Bui's neck. Bui quickly raises his shoulders for protection, reaches up with his hands, and snatches a quick over-the-shoulder arm bar. Be sure to turn your opponent's wrist so his palm faces up. This simple move can dislocate the elbow joint or result in a fracture.

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Too Late … Or Is It?: Scott Stroup completes the figure-four grip but has watched too many WWE matches and didn't read this article — he leaves his supporting hand high on the head and doesn't hide it behind Conrad Bui's neck. Conrad simply peels off the attacker's top hand and breaks the arm by using his shoulder as a fulcrum.

Wake Up!

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What do you do when you've choked out a training partner or that annoying drunk friend? How do you wake them up safely? Here, Conrad Bui demonstrates the most common way to wake someone up from dreamland. Bring up the legs to get blood back into the brain. Remember proper lifting mechanics and lift with your legs not your back. Hold the victim's feet up until he's regained consciousness.

Be careful when the victim wakes up because he may still be in fighting mode. “I did this for a competitor when I was a referee,” Brazilian jiu-jitsu champion Diego Herzog said with a smile, “and the guy tried to sweep me when he woke up.”

Self-Defense

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Haymaker Counter: Haymakers pack plenty of power, but control? Not so much. Conrad Bui parries and ducks under an overcommitted right punch then positions himself behind his attacker for a rear naked choke.

About the Author

Dr. Conrad Bui is a San Francisco-based chiropractor and freelance writer with more than 30 years of continuous martial arts experience. A former bouncer, he holds multiple gold medals and a brown belt in Brazilian jiu-jitsu. As an instructor at World Team USA, he enjoys giving and receiving chokes on a regular basis.

Source: Diego Herzog www.worldteamusa.com

More From Issue 12

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 13

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Vehicle Security: Part 1 – Auto Theft & Break-In Deterrence

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Anyone who has been the victim of an automotive break-in knows the feelings of anger and helplessness it creates. Maybe you walked out to go to work in the morning, only to find an empty parking space where your truck once was. Or maybe you made a quick stop at a fast-food restaurant, returning to a pile of smashed glass on the car seat. Regardless of the circumstances, the perpetrator is likely long-gone and may never be caught. If you're lucky, you might see your vehicle or your belongings again.

Photo: Flickr.com/comedynose

Photo: Flickr.com/comedynose

Despite taking reasonable precautions, this author has experienced several vehicle break-ins over the years. These included the theft of a catalytic converter — an exhaust system component that's worth hundreds of dollars on the black market due to its precious metal content — and a smash-and-grab incident where a thief ransacked the vehicle only to find nothing of value inside. Frustratingly, the criminals in both incidents got away scot-free. These crimes led to questions about how to make it more difficult for the perpetrators to get what they want.

Catalytic converters are one of many commonly-stolen car parts. Photo: Flickr.com/sidewalk_flying

Catalytic converters are one of many commonly-stolen car parts. Photo: Flickr.com/sidewalk_flying

Auto Theft & Break-In Statistics

Personal anecdotes aside, automotive theft and burglary are serious concerns throughout the United States. According to the FBI's Uniform Crime Report, there were an estimated 765,484 thefts of motor vehicles nationwide in 2016, resulting in a total financial loss of $5.9 billion that year. Although motor vehicle thefts are down about 30% over the last 10 years, this type of crime has been making a resurgence over the last few years, rising 5.8% in 2015 and 7.4% in 2016. Preliminary data for 2017 shows an estimated increase of 4.1%.

Theft of vehicle contents and parts, which the FBI Uniform Crime Report above categorizes as “larceny-theft from motor vehicles” and “larceny-theft [of] motor vehicle accessories” (i.e. wheels or other parts), also rose in 2016 by 6.5% and 2% respectively. Larceny-theft from motor vehicles the most common of all theft categories, with an estimated 1.3 million incidents in 2016. These types of crime often take 60 seconds or less. A smash-and-grab can be over in as little as 5 seconds.

Photo: Flickr.com/joelogon

Photo: Flickr.com/joelogon

So, given these trends and the likelihood of auto theft or a break-in affecting one or more of your vehicles, it's wise to prepare and defend against these crimes. This is especially relevant for those of us who keep emergency kits and other valuables in our cars, since your get-home bag could be a nice prize for a thief — especially if it contains cash, weapons, or personally-identifiable information that could be used for identity theft.

Deterrence: Making Your Vehicle Less Attractive to Thieves

The ideal situation is to avoid being a victim in the first place, and this is accomplished through deterrence. We'll be placing most of our focus on this goal.

If you've been following our site for a while, you've probably heard of the “grey man” philosophy. This is generally used in reference to choosing apparel and other on-body gear that won't make you stand out in a crowd, but it can also be applied to the appearance of your vehicle. Depending on your surroundings, this can mean drastically different things. For example, a new BMW 3-series might seem plain in Manhattan, but it'll look extremely unusual in a low-income rural town. And if your vehicle looks unusual, criminals are likely to take a closer look.

Photo: Flickr.com/tcb613

Photo: Flickr.com/tcb613

However, don't assume that if you have a plain or older car that criminals will overlook it. FBI statistics tell us that the most stolen cars in America in 2016 were the 1997 Honda Accord, 1998 Honda Civic, 2006 Ford F-series, and 2004 Chevy Silverado. These popular vehicles are well-known by thieves, who often have experience breaking into and starting them up. In the case of older cars, a lack of electronic safeguards can allow criminals to start the ignition with a filed-down key or screwdriver.

Older keys lacked the programmed electronic security chips found in newer keys. Photo: Flickr.com/teakwood

Older car keys lack the programmed electronic security chips found in newer keys. Photo: Flickr.com/teakwood

Beyond make and model, it should go without saying that clearly advertising your preparedness on your vehicle puts you at increased risk. A light bar on the bumper, toolbox in the bed, or a nice set of wheels and tires can easily be taken without entering the vehicle, much like the catalytic converter mentioned earlier. A sticker, license plate frame, or vanity plate can give thieves an idea what gear might be in your vehicle — you might really like your Glock, but broadcasting this info on your vehicle can cause criminals to go looking for it. If theft-prevention is your priority, keep your vehicle as plain and anonymous as possible.

Photo: Flickr.com/rulenumberone2

Be cautious about the message sent by your vehicle's appearance. Photo: Flickr.com/rulenumberone2

As for the contents of your vehicle, the same principles apply. Several former criminals have stated in interviews that virtually any personal item visible inside a car could provide motivation for a break-in. Former car thief Steve Sivertsen told KREM 2 News, “You know, if I'm hard up enough and I’ve walked by six cars with change, I know I've got 20 bucks, so I'm going to break your window at least.” Another reformed thief put it as follows: “Unless you go the route of having a car filled so much that you’re a mini-hoarder, you absolutely gotta keep it empty. No loose change. No little screwdrivers, tollway passes, sports equipment, cool signs, t-shirts, or anything!”

This sign might actually work if a thief is considerate enough to read it. Photo: Flickr.com/spine

This sign might work, but it's likely that thieves won't bother to read it. Photo: Flickr.com/spine

Regarding other deterrents, there are many conflicting reports on the deterrence value of security devices such as alarms or steering wheel locks. One of the thieves above said he'd think twice about breaking in if he spotted a blinking light on the dash, but a study by the Highway Loss Data Institute found that these alarms don't noticeably reduce theft losses. A former design engineer at Chrysler said devices like The Club can be circumvented easily by cutting the steering wheel, and may actually be helpful to criminals due to their effectiveness as improvised prybars. In-car dashcams with motion sensors might deter criminals if they know they're being recorded, or they may serve as another item to steal and sell.

Photo: Flickr.com/komunews

Photo: Flickr.com/komunews

Finally, consider where you're parking your vehicle. It's common sense to avoid leaving it in a dark or secluded area, especially overnight. Many thieves are most active between the hours of 2am and 5am. As one put it, “it's nice and quiet [with] less distractions, less people walking around.” Be especially wary if you're in a region where theft is common — refer to the National Insurance Crime Bureau's 2016 Hot Spots report to check your city's car theft rate.

If you see this on the curb near your parking spot, you'll know theft is likely. Photo: Flickr.com/dumbonyc

If you see this on the curb near your parking spot, you'll know theft is likely. Photo: Flickr.com/dumbonyc

Lessons Learned

So, to recap our deterrence tips:

  1. Avoid expensive or flashy vehicles that may draw unwanted attention.
  2. Avoid older models that lack anti-theft features, especially those which are also popular targets for thieves.
  3. Maintain a low profile by avoiding modifications that broadcast preparedness.
  4. Never leave any exposed belongings in your vehicle. Even seemingly worthless items can lead thieves to break in hoping to find more.
  5. Park in a well-lit high-traffic area if possible, but don't assume that this will protect your vehicle.

Unfortunately, none of these tips provide an ironclad guarantee that your vehicle won't be touched by criminals. Much like hardening your home against burglaries or protecting your online identity from hackers, you can take steps to make it more difficult, risky, and time-consuming for these individuals. However, this is essentially an arms race. If a thief is determined, clever, and skilled enough to work around your security measures, he'll still be able to gain entry to your car or truck.

So, in the second half of our two-part vehicle security series next week, we'll share some insights into mitigating the damage once a criminal accesses your vehicle.

Video: Making a Simple DIY Forge

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Metalworking is one of the skills that separated the eras of human history — the Stone Age, Bronze Age, and Iron Age were defined by our ability (or lack thereof) to produce tools and weapons from durable metal. These days, we may feel as though we've progressed far beyond the need for such simple tools, but the ability to forge and repair metal items remains extremely valuable. It's not hard to imagine a scenario in which our fancy CNC mills and power tools become unusable, but a hot fire, hammer, and anvil will always get the job done.

DIY forge blacksmith blade making knife tool metalworking shop vac 2

Whether you're forging a knife, repairing a tool, repurposing some scrap, or simply learning metalworking as a hobby, you'll need a forge. One of the simplest ways to achieve this is by forcing air up through a layer of burning charcoal or coke. This was originally done through manually-operated bellows, but can now be done with a small shop vac or leaf blower. Even if the power grid is down, this could easily be run off a battery or a small generator, and it saves a tremendous amount of work that would be necessary to keep bellows pumping.

DIY forge blacksmith blade making knife tool metalworking shop vac 1

Swedish YouTuber and blacksmith Torbjörn Åhman recently posted a video that shows how he made an extremely simple forge in his backyard without any special tools. The forge consists of a wood box atop two sawhorses. A hole is cut in one side of the box, and a metal pipe (called a tuyere) is inserted with the protruding end connected to a shop vac hose. The space in the box is then filled with dirt and heat-resistant stones — concrete or other types of stone could explode, so these must be avoided. Wood kindling and coke fuel are added and ignited atop the pipe opening, forming a hearth.

After the first attempt at forging, the stones fracture, so Åhman replaces them with more durable hard-burned bricks.

DIY forge blacksmith blade making knife tool metalworking shop vac 3

Unless you're going to go 100% primitive and rely on manual bellows, this is about as simple as it gets. Check out the video below if you're interested in trying your hand at blacksmithing or blade-forging:

Video: Black Powder Cloth Fire Starters

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Char cloth is a great resource for fire-starting — we often carry a small tin of it in our packs, and this tin also doubles as the vessel for making more char cloth in a campfire. While char cloth definitely takes a spark easily and burns for a long time, it's not the most energetic fire-starter. This can cause it to be less effective at igniting damp kindling.

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Traditional char cloth is created by heating cloth scraps in a tin with an exhaust hole.

If you're looking to kick your fire-starter up a notch, the following video from Coalcracker Bushcraft shows how to make black powder cloth, also known as rub cloth. Like char cloth, this material starts with a scrap of 100% cotton fabric. But instead of charring it through combustion, the fabric is soaked with water and rubbed with black powder, impregnating it with the highly-flammable substance.

Black powder cloth fire starter char cloth tinder flint steel 3

Dan from Coalcracker lights the black powder cloth with sparks from his flint and steel, and the cloth burns in an energetic and almost-explosive manner. However, it doesn't burn out immediately afterward, continuing to smolder like char cloth. Check out the video below to see for yourself:

What do you think of this fire-starter? Would you use it as an alternative to char cloth?

Infographic: Driving The World’s Longest Roads

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What do you consider a long drive? Many of us would say anything beyond a few hours; cross-country truck drivers and experienced overlanders might say a few days. But some routes make those trips look insignificant, with thousands upon thousands of miles of continuous highway stretching across a continent (or more).

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Traveling one of the longest roads on earth could make for a great adventure and a fun undertaking. On the other hand, you could look at these routes as the ultimate long-distance bug-out paths — when “getting out of Dodge” isn't enough, putting Dodge on the opposite side of the continent might do the trick.

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The following infographic from CarRentals shows the 7 longest roads on earth, as well as major landmarks, route length, and estimated travel time. Click here to download a full-size version of this graphic.

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RECOILtv: Full-Auto vs. Semi-Auto

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If you've spent time reading comments on social media lately, you've probably seen more than a few uninformed statements about the AR-15 platform. One common misconception relates to the differences between a full-auto weapon and a semi-auto weapon. There are many who conflate the two, leading to descriptions such as the infamous “full semi automatic”. Others wrongly believe making an AR full-auto is as simple as filing down the firing pin.

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In order to dispel these myths and take a closer look at how a full-auto rifle really works, RECOIL‘s Iain Harrison met with Jack Leuba of Knight's Armament Co. The pair analyzed the mechanism and different parts that are present in an automatic KAC SR-16, especially the critical auto sear component. Without it, the gun would experience problematic hammer-follow and wouldn't operate in full-auto.

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Check out the 3-minute video below, or head to RECOILtv for more episodes.