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Making the Cut: Kukri History & Practical Use

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Photos by Q Concepts

WARNING: The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Seek professional training from a reputable instructor before attempting any techniques discussed or shown in this story.

The kukri is an intimidating weapon. With its fat, forward-curving blade, it looks like a dagger on steroids. Whether you’ve seen one in a movie or in the hands of a famed Gurkha soldier, you’ve probably wondered if it’s any more special than a Bowie knife — and you’re probably curious as to how to use it.

Well, guess what? It’s been used as a utility, tactical, and survival tool for generations.

An original hybrid, the kukri (also spelled “khukuri”) is native to Nepal. Some scholars theorize that it originated from the sickle, the knife, and the bent hunting stick. As with any ancient weapon, opinions differ. There’s speculation that the angled blade came from Europe via the Greek kopis or from Egypt by way of the khopesh. Any which way you cut it (pun intended), the forward bend of the blade brings a new “angle” to cutting tools.

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Naturally, its distinctive shape caught the attention of the film industry, which has showcased the kukri in movies like Jean Claude Van Damme’s Cyborg and more recent apocalyptic fare like Mad Max: Fury Road. The blade also showed up in Resident Evil: Extinction, in which Milla Jovovich showed off her pair of naked, curvy … um, kukris. Celluloid aside, does the kukri really deserve a place with your survival gear? We say, “Absolutely!”

Having a kukri in your possession makes sense if you’re camping, working in the yard, or caught in a violent encounter (e.g. an armed burglar bashes through your front door). The aggressive blade also makes it a wicked weapon on the battlefield — just ask any Gurkha (see “Gallant Gurkhas” sidebar for more). But more than likely it’ll be used as a tool for more mundane, yet vital, tasks. History shows that it can be used for many utility jobs, and is used daily in the homes and fields of Nepal. So, follow along as we cut through the mystery and mystique of the kukri and show you how it can be a worthy blade to add to your kit.

Anatomy: Parts Unknown

When looking at a kick-ass kukri, comparisons to the common machete is immediate. (See RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 10 for “Get to the Choppa! Machetes Truly Are the Original Survival Multitools”). Handle? Check. Lengthy blade? Check. Thick spine and full tang? Check and check. Bent, forward blade angle that would make a chiropractor faint? Freakin’ un-check. What’s with that bending anyway? It turns out, the angled blade (which typically ranges from 10 to 15 inches), maintains the lightweight maneuverability of a machete, while giving it the chopping power of a hatchet.

The Nepalese multitool: The kurki (center) hacks like a machete, slices like a sickle, chops like a hatchet, and can even be used as an improvised hammer.
The kukri (center) hacks like a machete, slices like a sickle, chops like a hatchet, and can even be used as an improvised hammer.

Traditional kukris also have a notch at the bottom of the blade. This notch (called a cho or kaudi) is said to resemble a cow’s foot or a cow’s teat. Religiously, the kukri should not be used in slaughtering the cow, which is sacred to Hindus. The circular notch also delineates where the sharpened edge stops and helps to drip fluids, like blood, away from the handle.

Two smaller knives — the chakmak and the karda (typically with 2- to 4-inch blades) — are also sheathed with traditional kukris. The chakmak is blunt, used to sharpen and polish the kukri. The sharpened karda is utilized for finer cutting purposes, like whittling or skinning game. The two extra tools are welcome additions to the main blade, especially when far from civilization.

Utility Uses

The kukri’s aggressive design makes it an effective chopping tool and a deadly weapon. Utilize extreme caution when handling. If available, use eye protection. Protecting your eyes from flying debris, especially when hacking and chopping are essential. Sturdy leather gloves are also highly recommended. Also, pay attention to your immediate surroundings. A large kukri can decapitate a buffalo in one swipe. (Yeah, we saw the footage on YouTube.) Any flesh found within the arc of a swing will quickly become separated from its owner.

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Chopping
With the angled blade, the kukri can easily split wood like a small axe. We have no delusions of hewing down a sequoia, but for branches used to make shelter, fire, or improvised weapons, the kukri is more than enough. (See RECOIL OFFGRID’s Winter 2015 article titled “Improvise to Survive” on the art of building effective makeshift weapons.) To become a master hacker, keep a relaxed arm with a firm grip, and drop your body weight into the chops to maximize leverage, making contact with the top third of blade.

Be extra careful at the end of your swing (the deceleration phase). The forward angle of the kukri’s blade will place the edge a few inches ahead of where you would expect, especially if you’re used to swinging a straighter edge, like a machete.

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Batoning
Not looking to create a path of lumber destruction? There are times when splitting wood requires more finesse and precision. This is where batoning comes in. Finer duties — such as making kindling, animal traps, notches, and shelter — are reasons enough to learn this skill. Kukris are known for their thick spine and will stand up to the abuse of batoning. Simply position your kukri on the wood. Make sure several inches of the blade is sticking out from the wood. Hammer away with a sturdy stick (AKA baton) on the spine of the kukri. (See RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 10 for “Firewood Fundamentals,” a feature on how to baton wood with a knife.)

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Brush Clearing
A kukri will come in handy when you’re in the thick of it — from trimming trees in the yard to clearing a path in dense brush. It’s light enough to maneuver in confined areas, while the cut is assisted by the blade’s forward mass. We cannot emphasize safety enough during chopping and slashing with the anterior offset of the blade. Keep your limbs and those of your companions out of the kukri’s path.

Hammering
The butt cap or spine of the kukri’s blade can act as a hammer for light-duty pounding. Driving in a tent stake, breaking open a window, or cracking the skull of a two-legged predator is no sweat for the kukri. When hammering with the spine of the blade, be extremely careful because the tip and the edge will be pointed toward you.

Shoveling: While you cannot dig a well using the blade of a kukri, you can use it for simpler jobs like digging a fire pit. With your dominant hand, grip the handle and use your nondominant hand to grip the lower spine of the blade and dig away. Make sure your fingers are nowhere near the edge.

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Sickling
Some researchers claim that the kukri’s shape descended from the sickle; thus cutting grain, grass, or weeds with the curved blade is a no-brainer. To use the kukri as a sickle, simply grab the grass (or other vegetation) with your nondominant and pull up, making the grass taut. Make sure there’s plenty of space between your support hand and the base of the grass, where the cut takes place. Take the kukri, using the bottom half of the blade (the convex part), and pull from left to right (if you’re right handed). Make sure to keep your legs and fingers away from the blade at all times, or else you’ll end up harvesting your own body parts. Now you have a bundle of grass to feed your horse, use for kindling, or lay down as bedding for the night.

Kukri Combatives

During a violent encounter, having a kukri in your hand will quickly help transform your bushcraft skills into bushwacker skills. Using this tool during a life-or-death encounter can give you an edge (yes, pun intended!). The forward angle of the blade will produce deadly hacks, with the potential for severing limbs.

Gripping
When you or your loved ones are in danger, grip the kukri like your life depends on it. We mean a death grip, as if you were in the middle of the ocean holding onto a flotation device. Your wrist can be mobile, but there’s no compromise on the grip. And no fancy spinning because if you drop your kukri — or any weapon for that matter —
during a confrontation, you may end up dead.

Meeting the Force
When attacked by a short-range weapon, like a fist, knife, machete, or club, move your body out of the way of the attack (so you don’t die!), and retaliate with a cut to the offending limb. When performing this counter (often called “tenderizing” in pentjak silat, a bladed art from Indonesia), you can use your kukri to either “meet the force” or “follow the force.”
With blades, meeting the force means cutting at the limb that’s attacking you. If done correctly, one strike will end the fight. A large amount of force is produced because two incoming objects crash together from opposing sides, similar to a head-on car collision. Be prepared to follow-up, because one counterstrike may not be enough.

Example A
Michael Guadamuz raises his bat to pound Conrad Bui into the pavement. Bui immediately steps in at a 45-degree angle and meets the force of the attack with his kukri (and his left arm as backup). Guadamuz drops the bat as kukri and flesh collide. Bui is prepared to follow up, if the need arise.

Example B
The author sees Michael Guadamuz coming. Conrad Bui purposely sticks his head out and Guadamuz takes the bait by swinging for his head. Bui immediately moves his head and body out of the way while delivering a counterstrike.

Example C
With his hands low, Conrad Bui is out of position to “meet” Michael Guadamuz’s strike. So, he immediately moves his head and body out of the line of fire and follows the force of the hammer attack. Because it isn’t enough damage to get the bad guy to stop his attack, Bui has no choice but to follow-up.

Following the Force
Because a fight is unpredictable, there will be times when the kukri is used to “follow” behind the force of an incoming attack. The counterstrike of following the force is utilized to change the trajectory of the attacker’s strike, while damaging the attacker. The damage will not be as severe as meeting the force. This is similar to a rear-end collision. When both cars are moving, the rear car can “bump” the forward car off course, with less force than a head-on collision.

To execute this counterattack, move out of harms way, and swing your kukri behind the attacker’s arm or hand.

Following the force is generally used as a “Plan B,” when you find yourself out of position and unable to counter by meeting the force. This can happen anytime you first draw your weapon, when you’re caught unaware, or if you miss a strike. If and when this happens, just continue to use the force, young Skywalker.

Move It!
Footwork and mobility is crucial during close-quarter combatives, and silat provides a good lesson on the “when” and “whys” of mobility. Sun Tzu, the great military strategist, said it best: “Mobility is better than fortification.” Your feet will allow you to move out of harm’s way, position you in range for a counterstrike, or help you make like a tree and leave.

When armed with a kukri, do you want to step forward or backward to tenderize the attacker’s limbs?

When your attacker is armed with a weapon that has a longer reach, distance is not your friend but rather an ally of the attacker. Your odds of surviving will be improved on the inside. If a weapon is longer than the kukri (like a baseball bat or pool cue) and you see the attacker loading up for a strike, rush forward at a 45-degree angle, moving inside the arc of the weapon immediately. With any luck you’ll avoid getting nailed by the weapon, and even if you do, the damage will not be as great as if you were on the arc of the attack.

If your opponent is armed with a weapon of similar length or shorter, stepping back at a 45-degree angle, out of range just enough to where you can chop the hand or wrist of the bad guy, will be your best bet. Distance just did a 180 and is now our friend since your kukri is just as long or longer than the weapon of your opponent. The step back will move your head and torso away from the danger, while keeping you in range for the counterstrike.

A Cut Above

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Using the kukri as a tool or weapon requires the proper training and practice. The techniques in this article are a good place to start, and we encourage you to find a qualified teacher for proper training of both the bushcraft skills and the combatives. The investment will be worth it. As exotic as it looks, the kukri deserves a place (or at least serious consideration) with the rest of your equipment. The crazy, crooked multitool is angled to save the day, when the need arises.

Kukri Trainer

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To become proficient in using the kukri as a weapon, a training blade is highly vital. Just like a blue gun for firearms, a blunt trainer allows participants to practice safely alone and with partners. Steve Rollert of Keen Edge Knives makes excellent kukri trainers, along with many other types. His high-quality training knives have been used by police, military, and martial artists all over the world. His aluminum kukris have a cord-wrapped handle and come in two sizes: 17¾ inches and 16 inches. www.keenedgeknives.com

Gallant Gurkhas

When discussing the kukri, you cannot help but mention the deadly Gurkha soldiers of Nepal. Some even go so far as to call the kukri a “Gurkha knife.” The Gurkhas (or Gorkhas) are known for their small stature, ferociousness in combat, and big blades. Their legendary status in the West as courageous warriors came about during their service with the British starting back in 1815. The English chaps immediately saw value in the Himalayan troops when Britain failed to annex Nepal as part of their empire. To this day the Gurkas still take a licking and keep on kicking.

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Just how badass are these soldiers? During WWII, Bhanbhagta Gurung, a rifleman for the Gurkhas, saw his buddies getting picked off by a sniper. Not able to get a clean shot from cover, Gurung calmly stood up and eliminated the threat despite heavy enemy fire. That same day while advancing, his battalion again met heavy resistance. Gurung immediately advanced forward, clearing out four separate foxholes with his grenades and a bayonet. He flung his two remaining smoke grenades into a bunker and, using his kukri, took down two Japanese soldiers who ran out. Running into the bunker, Gurung quickly dispatched the remaining soldier. What is more surprising, Gurung was under fire the entire time. For his bravery, he was awarded the Victoria Cross, the highest British military decoration for bravery.

More recently in 2010, while on sentry duty in Afghanistan, Sergeant Dipprasad Pun was attacked from all sides by more than 30 Taliban fighters armed with RPGs and AK-47s. Pun expended more than 400 rounds of ammo, 17 grenades, and a mine — and used his machinegun tripod to beat an intruder climbing over the compound wall. When the smoke settled, Pun singlehandedly fought off the attackers in under an hour. Like Gurung, Pun was also honored with the Victoria Cross for his bravery.

Gurkhas have proven their bravery and effectiveness, time and time again. What makes them so deadly? It may be the high altitude they’re raised in. It may be the deadly kukri they carry. Or possibly their belief that it’s “Better to die than to live a coward.”

About the Author

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A San Francisco-based chiropractor, Dr. Conrad Bui has over 30 years of continuous martial arts experience. He is a certified instructor in six different martial arts systems including silat, a bladed art from Indonesia. In his spare time, he contributes to RECOIL OFFGRID and spends time in the outdoors with his family.

More From Issue 14

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 15

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 13

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Mora Floating Serrated Knife

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Losing a tool is always a frustrating experience, and doubly so when it’s an essential item such as a knife. For those who spend a lot of time on the water, either for recreational fishing and boating or in a professional role, this means that tools must not be allowed to sink if they’re dropped overboard. You certainly don’t want to watch your knife disappear beneath the surface, never to be seen again.

Morakniv has developed a new fixed blade designed to solve this problem. The new Mora Floating Serrated Knife features a lightweight blade and buoyant cork handle that prevents it from sinking. The cork handle is also designed for comfort and a secure grip in the wet and cold conditions you’re likely to encounter on the water. Its prominent finger guard ensures your hand won’t slip forward onto the sharp edge while you work.

Mora floating serrated knife water fishing boating tool blade rope cord 2

As you’d expect from its name, the Floating Serrated Knife has a 3.7-inch serrated stainless steel blade. This is tailored to quickly cut through rope, nylon, and fibrous materials, making it a valuable rescue tool for escaping entanglement. It also features a rounded tip to avoid accidental punctures.

Mora floating serrated knife water fishing boating tool blade rope cord 1

This knife includes a belt sheath made of high-visibility orange polymer, a material which is also infused at the core of the handle. The bright coloration will help you spot the knife quickly if it ends up going for a swim.

Total weight of the Floating Serrated Knife is only 3.07 ounces. It will be available for purchase in October 2018 at an MSRP of $27. For more information, go to Moraknivusa.com.

Video: Twisting Char Cloth Fire Starters

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Knowing that fire-starting is an essential survival skill, most of us have multiple tools for igniting a flame — lighters, matches, ferro rods, and so on. However, even with a powerful blowtorch you’ll struggle to get a fire going if you lack access to highly-combustible tinder. Your tinder material is the substance that bridges the gap between an initial spark or small flame and a healthy roaring campfire.

Char cloth cotton fabric fire starter cord rope twist tinder wood 2

Char cloth is one of our favorite man-made tinder materials, since it’s easy to ignite, easy to make, and a great way of re-purposing old T-shirts and scraps of fabric. Rather than burning energetically, it smolders and glows with enough persistent heat to ignite wood shavings or dry grass.

Char cloth fire starters 16

Unfortunately, normal squares or strips of char cloth will only last for a short period, and produce a relatively small area of embers. This can make it tougher to ignite more stubborn materials such as damp wood. In the following video, bushcraft YouTuber NW Primate shows how he used twisted strips of cotton to create a denser char cloth bundle with a stronger ember.

In the video description, NW Primate provides some more information on potential issues with this char cloth technique:

As with anything, there are some downsides to this method. On advantage to using flat sheets of cloth is that they sit so nicely on a flat stone, where these pieces of char require a bit more finesse to hold in place without crumbling them. The final product is a bit brittle, so you may find conventional char cloth easier to use during the sparking stage.

Char cloth cotton fabric fire starter cord rope twist tinder wood 4

This method also uses quite a bit of material, although I only twisted one of the strands that I cut; but if you were in a situation where you were cutting your only t-shirt; it might make more sense to be more efficient and use small squares to conserve the material.

100% cotton from an old T-shirt makes a great source for cloth to char.
100% cotton from an old T-shirt makes a great source for cloth to char.

For more instructional videos on fire-starting, knife work, and other bushcraft skills, check out the NW Primate YouTube channel.

Vasque Saga LTR GTX All-Leather Hiking Boots

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Leather is an incredible material, and one that can be extremely durable when it’s maintained properly. We’ve seen many old leather baseball mitts, jackets, and work gloves that have undergone decades of use and remained functional (and surprisingly comfy). However, compared to modern synthetics, there’s no denying that leather is heavy. Compare a pair of solid leather hiking boots to one made of textile and you’ll feel an immediate difference.

Vasque Saga LTR GTX hiking boot leather waterproof footwear 4

In an effort to blend the durability and classic appearance of a leather boot with the reduced weight and breathability of synthetic footwear, Vasque has introduced a new LTR version of its Saga GTX hiking boot. The Vasque Saga LTR GTX features an upper made from 2mm waterproof full-grain leather and a collar made of soft Nappa leather. Despite the use of this material, the weight is listed as 3 lbs 5 oz — that’s just 13% more than the standard Saga GTX boots.

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The Saga LTR GTX also features a dual-density high-rebound footbed, dual-density All-Terrain Compound (ATC) midsole, and TPU shank. The exterior is finished with a Vasque-exclusive Vibram Contact Grip sole formed from Megagrip rubber compound. Ventilation ports at the toe and heel provide airflow, but include a GORE-TEX barrier to keep the boots waterproof.

Vasque Saga LTR GTX hiking boot leather waterproof footwear 2

The Vasque Saga LTR GTX is available in Coffee Bean and black two-tone colorway for an MSRP of $240. Sizes range from 7 to 14 in Medium width, and 8 to 13 in Wide. For more information, go to Vasque.com.

Putting Waste to Work with Backyard Composting

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Mother Nature has a way of taking things back, whether it takes months or millennia. This inevitable process is known as decomposition— in layman’s terms, this is when organic matter rots, decays, or breaks down into simpler compounds. For the prepared, decomposition processes can be a valuable tool for waste management and soil enrichment — this is commonly known as composting. Today, we’ll look at a few rules to speed the process up and some ways to incorporate a compost heap into your prepping strategy.

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As much as we may try, food waste is inevitable. Whether it’s that head of lettuce you forgot in the back of the fridge or garden scraps, something always ends up in the trash. Using these scraps toward a compost pile helps keep them out of the trash and turns them into incredibly-beneficial soil amendments. Leaves falling from trees will decay over time and help the soil below, but the process can take months or even years. That may not be a problem in the middle of a forest, but those of us with limited space and time can make the process go much faster.

What Goes In…

The best way to think about items going into your compost pile is to separate them into “browns” and “greens”. Browns are your sources of carbon. These includes things like dry leaves, shredded paper, and wood shavings/dust. Greens are sources of nitrogen. These are grass clippings, fruit and vegetable scraps, and manure.

Keeping your additions to the pile cut into chunks in the range of ¼” to 2” will help them decompose faster by increasing the surface area without limiting aerobic activity.

Composting survival backyard gardening soil planting fruits vegetables fertilizer food 7

Above: A helpful guide to items that will make effective additions to your compost heap, and those that could be problematic or dangerous. (Source: Idaho Master Gardener Handbook / NRAES-43)

Ideally you want to create an environment with a 25:1 carbon-to-nitrogen (C/N) ratio. This translates to approximately 2 or 3 parts green to every 1 part brown. However, there’s a spectrum ranging from strong greens like fresh manure (7:1 C/N ratio), to weak greens like coffee grounds (25:1), to weak browns like hay (90:1), to strong browns like wood chips (700:1). Too many items from either extreme will skew your C/N ratio and cause problems, which we’ll discuss later in this article.

Microorganisms are doing the work in your compost by breaking down the materials. They will “eat” sugars and proteins first for energy and then feast on more woody materials. Keeping the ratio even will aid the microorganisms in their job.

This pile has too many greens. Browns should be added to correct the ratio.
This pile has too many greens. Browns should be added to correct the ratio.

Keeping your heap moist is important for a healthy decomposition. If compost becomes too dry the process slows dramatically; too much water and a similar problem occurs. Lack of water is a very common problem in arid environments with little rain. Adding water often to keep the pile uniformly moist while also turning it is paramount for success. To check the moisture level of your pile use a simple squeeze test — grab a handful of compost and squeeze it in your hand. If water drips out you are over-watered, if it stays clumped together and is damp you are just right, if it is dry and crumbles apart, add water.

Moist material stays clumped and is not excessively wet.
Moist material stays clumped and is not excessively wet.

Methods

Pile: Composting can be as simple as a pile of twigs, leaves, and scraps in the middle of your yard. Adding the right materials, in the right amounts and turning them frequently with a pitchfork will ensure success.

Fences: Piles can be supplemented with walls such as readily available pallets or other wood structures. These allow the heap to be controlled and easily layered without spreading around too much. These are simple to build and only require three sides to be closed off. Leaving the front exposed for you to work in makes these a very attractive option.

A simple pallet compost pile.
A simple pallet compost pile.

Wire Units: With readily-available chicken wire or similar materials making a cylinder and piling materials inside will create an effective structure for composting.

In-Ground Method: Another simple method for composting is to dig a large trench or hole in the ground (or use an existing one such as a removed tree stump) and fill with your material. This method allows microorganisms in the hole to easily access the new material and begin to break it down.

The author's experience with these types of bins is that they are difficult to keep moist and monitor for proper progress.
In our experience, these types of bins are difficult to keep moist and monitor for progress.

No matter which method you choose it is best to keep the pile’s footprint to roughly 3’x3’ to 5’x5’. This size is large enough to allow the pile to heat up properly. Having multiple piles is also beneficial to allow materials to break down over time and be able to continuously add to them.

Temperature

Unstructured piles are less efficient. This one needs more green items, water, and aeration.
Unstructured piles are less efficient. This one needs more green items, water, and aeration.

Your compost pile must reach a specific temperature in order for the microorganisms to really get to work. The ideal temperature is between 125°F and 140°F. If you have maintained the correct brown-to-green ratio and the pile is of adequate size, reaching these temperatures inside the pile should not be a problem.

Testing the core temperature inside the pile is easier than taking a human’s temperature. Simply use a long thermometer and insert it into the middle. Obviously weather and seasons play a factor but generally during normal summer temperatures you can hit the mark.

Troubleshooting

Problems can arise with compost piles but the end result will be the same. It all depends on time and quality. The two most common problems, although not the only two, are odor and slow decomposition.

Starter and fortifier can help a slow going pile.
Starter and fortifier can help encourage a slow-going pile.

Odor problems generally stem from excess moisture or an inaccurate ratio of greens and browns. An overly wet pile will smell rotten and can easily be corrected by turning the pile and mixing materials to soak up the water. An ammonia odor is associated with too much nitrogen. Mixing in carbon-rich brown materials such as leaves and pine needles will allow the pile to right itself.

Another problem that can occur are pests such as flies, rodents, and other critters being attracted to your pile. These usually persist when food scraps are not properly mixed in with brown materials. The typical suggestion is to bury these types of greens 6-10” below the surface inside the pile.

Conclusions

Compost piles can provide the maker with greatly-improved soil. Compost can be used for simple things like top dressing a yard to improve soil health or sowed directly into a garden to improve soil nutrients. Being able to recycle your food scraps and turn them into a quality product is beneficial and keeps waste and pests down creating a cleaner and healthier environment.

Coffee grounds, egg shells, and fruit are great for compost.
Coffee grounds, egg shells, and fruit scraps are great for compost.

Whether you’re looking to live a fully-sustainable off-grid lifestyle or simply trying to reduce your family’s grocery store and garden center bills, composting is a worthwhile endeavor. Rich composted soil will decrease your reliance on curb-side garbage pickup and help your backyard garden thrive.

Looking to learn more about how home gardening can factor into your survival plans? Check out our review of 6 Gardening Books for Your SHTF Library.

About the Author

Alexander Crown OFFGRIDweb author photo

Alexander Crown served as an Infantryman with the Scout/Sniper Platoon of the 3rd Battalion, 509th Parachute Infantry Regiment in Ft. Richardson, Alaska, where he specialized in radio communications and reconnaissance. Since separating, Alexander spends his time as an avid outdoorsman and hunter with an appreciation for self-sufficiency in the form of gardening. He also enjoys woodworking, firearms, and reloading. You can follow him on Instagram @acrown509.

Video: Constructing an Easy Square Tarp Shelter

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We all know that shelter is one of the top priorities in any survival situation — in many cases, it is the top priority. Although it’s possible to build a shelter entirely from natural materials, this requires substantial time and effort (and usually a whole lot of chopping wood). Carrying a tarp greatly simplifies the shelter construction process since it provides durable protection from wind, rain, and harsh sun. With a tarp, some paracord, and a little practice, you can build and dismantle an effective shelter in minutes.

In the following video, Lonnie of Far North Bushcraft and Survival shows how to construct a simple shelter using a large square tarp. This design is big enough to stand under, and provides three-sided protection from the elements. Better yet, it can be rigged on a ridgeline between two trees or in a free-standing design on poles.

If you’re taking stock of your gear, here’s all you’ll need:

  • Large waterproof tarp with grommets (Lonnie uses a 12’x12′ tarp)
  • For ridgeline setup: 25+ feet of paracord or rope, two paracord loops with small carabiners, 4 stakes
  • For free-standing setup: two 6-foot poles, two 15-foot guy lines, 8 stakes
  • Additional stake and guy line for porch overhang (optional)

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Above: A prusik knot and carabiner can be used to quickly rig the tarp to the ridgeline.

Lonnie states that if your tarp doesn’t have grommets, you’ll need to add them yourself, but it’s also possible to improvise a tie-out point. The classic backpacker’s trick is to place a small stone on the inside of your tarp and bunch the tarp around it to form a pouch. Then, from the outside of the tarp, tie a secure knot around that pouch to attach your guy line to the tarp (as pictured below).

An improvised tie-out point for a tarp. Source: REI.com
An improvised tie-out point for a tarp. Source: REI.com

Cartel Convoy in Jalisco, Mexico

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Editor’s Note: The following article was originally published by our friends at Breach Bang Clear. It appears here in its entirety with their permission. For more from the Mad Duo and crew, go to BreachBangClear.com or follow them on Facebook or Instagram.

Take a look at this convoy, described by a cartel member as a “patrol”, recently filmed in Jalisco, Mexico. Is it a show of force to put local security forces on notice? Conducted as a show of force toward rival narcos? An orchestrated media event? Maybe all the above?

Watch this video. Then we’ll break some things down.

According to Mexico News Daily, the video first appeared on WhatsApp messages and then social media. In it are several dozen CJNG (Cartel Jalisco Nueva Generación, or Jalisco New Generation Cartel) members, most armed with rifles. At least a couple of them are sitting in a vehicle with a crew-served, though it’s hard to tell if the machine gun is mounted or if they’re just propping it on the cab of the truck.

Cartel video Jalisco Mexico guns truck vehicle convoy criminal gang roadblock 3

A lot of you reading this have run convoys, conducted mounted patrols in dangerous places, and are pretty savvy when it comes to analyzing things like this. What do you see here?

Cartel Jalisco Nueva Generación Activity

The CJNG is about 10 years old and exerts significant criminal influence over the Mexican state of Jalisco and its capital, Guadalajara, and are thought to be present in at least seven others, plus the Federal District of Mexico City. They are currently in conflict with the Sinaloa Cartel and a splinter group of their own organization called the Nueva Plaza.

This particular video apparently surfaced a few weeks after Mexican Marines arrested Rosalinda González Valencia, the wife of El Mencho (Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes). Cervantes is the current leader of the CJNG.

That arrest occurred not too long after a series of gunbattles and narcobloqueos across the city, including an attack on a Japanese restaurant where a former state prosecutor was dining with his bodyguards. Narcobloqueos are “field expedient” roadblocks created by setting fire to large vehicles to block the response of security forces. The Jaliscos are the same group that used rifles and either grenade launchers or RPGs (depending on the source you read) to down a Mexican Army EC725 Cougar, kill five police officers in Ocotlan, then to murder the Police Director, and then to ambush a police convoy and kill another 15 LEOs back in 2015.

Cartel video Jalisco Mexico guns truck vehicle convoy criminal gang roadblock 2

Violence in large parts Mexico is growing compared to last year, which is saying something given how it was ranked in 2017; there were 2,750 reported homicides in April, a 25% increase over last year. Other areas, particularly some that were under the thumb of the Sinaloa Cartel, have seen a decrease. According to the newspaper El Universal, over 100 public officials have been murdered in Jalisco since 2013, including police chiefs, mayors, and a state tourism secretary. Since December of 2006 over 200,000 people (other estimates put that number at over a quarter million) have been killed in Mexico, with between 40,000 and 50,000 more missing.

Practical Prepping from an Insurer’s Perspective

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Photo via USAA

The concept of prepping is often viewed with disdain by the general public, and there seems to be an unfortunate perception that it’s only for paranoid bunker-dwelling types. As a result, we’ve had countless conversations with friends, family, and even members of the outdoor industry who have insinuated that we must be a little weird to take emergency preparedness so seriously.

At the recent Outdoor Retailer show in Denver, our emphasis on prepping was met with resistance.
At the recent Outdoor Retailer show in Denver, our emphasis on prepping was often met with resistance.

Although we don’t do what we do for the approval of others, it’s nice to occasionally get some public vindication from mainstream sources. One recent and memorable example was the Medium article “The Surprisingly Solid Mathematical Case of the Tin Foil Hat Gun Prepper” — while the “tin foil” title is sensationalized, the content within is impressively compelling. And most importantly, it’s approachable to those outside the prepping community.

Photo via USAA
Photo courtesy of USAA

We recently read an article published by USAA, titled “How Much Disaster Prep Should I Do In A “Safe” Zone?”. It comes as no surprise that an insurance provider — especially one closely tied to the military — would emphasize the value of preparedness, but we were pleasantly surprised to find the details of the article went beyond simply updating your policy. Check out some excerpts from the article:

Maybe your family constantly hears “Better safe than sorry” and “Be prepared” whenever you’re around. That’s a good thing, says Matthew Angel, a USAA advice director and Certified Financial Planner practitioner.

“Lots of people don’t think about prepping for a disaster until after the disaster strikes,” he says. … “So if you’re already thinking about protecting your home and family before they’re in jeopardy, you’re on the right track.”

Angel notes that recent weather events have demonstrated that nature’s ferocity can be unleashed in areas where it wasn’t expected or with unexpected intensity. While Houston, due to its location, has seen its share of hurricanes and floods through the years, few anticipated a storm like Harvey, which dumped trillions of gallons of rain in a matter of days, inundating homes in areas thought to be at low risk for flooding.

“You should widen your thought about what could happen where you live,” he says.

You don’t have to live in Tornado Alley or along a major geological fault line to have a plan for surviving and riding out a disaster. It’s prudent to have an emergency plan and an emergency kit in place no matter where you live, because even if you’re at low risk for a hurricane or earthquake, events like house fires and power outages can happen anywhere.

You can read the full article from USAA here. Next time someone implies you’re paranoid for taking steps to be better prepared for emergencies, articles like this one can provide some ammunition for that discussion.

Looking Back: Suzuki KingQuad ATV

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The ATV, also known as a quad or four-wheeler, is a vehicle that has earned considerable popularity over the years as a result of its versatility and off-road performance. Many companies produce these compact vehicles today, but back in the early 1980s, Suzuki pioneered the segment with its QuadRunner model. Since then, the company has released countless other ATVs, the latest of which is the 2019 Suzuki KingQuad.

Suzuki KingQuad ATV offroad vehicle truck motorcycle bugout 3

The KingQuad has been completely redesigned for 2019 with a variety of upgrades. The four-stroke engine is available in either 722cc for the KingQuad 750AXi or 493cc for the KingQuad 500AXi, and offers increased output. An updated CVT transmission is said to provide smoother power delivery and stronger acceleration.

Suzuki KingQuad ATV offroad vehicle truck motorcycle bugout 2

The suspension now features new gas-charged shocks, and a more powerful electronic power steering unit makes the ATV easier to control. Towing capacity has been increased to 1,322 pounds as a result of a stronger frame and new receiver-type trailer hitch mount. A handlebar-mounted third headlight and LED rear taillight provide improved nighttime visibility. More onboard storage compartments have also been added.

Suzuki KingQuad ATV offroad vehicle truck motorcycle bugout 6

Pricing for the new 2019 Suzuki KingQuad starts at $7,500 for the 500AXi model and $8,800 for the 750AXi. Color choices include black, white, red, green, matte bronze, and True Timber camo.

Suzuki KingQuad ATV offroad vehicle truck motorcycle bugout 4

For more info, check out the video below or go to KingQuad.SuzukiCycles.com.

New: Leatherman Coyote Tan Cerakote Tools

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At the end of the day, what matters most about any tool is how it functions. However, most of us also give some consideration to the appearance of our tools. Alternate metal coatings and handle finishes can help your every-day carry items better fit your style, and can also provide a more durable barrier against scratches and corrosion.

Leatherman recently announced the ongoing expansion of its Coyote Tan lineup, which now includes more of the company’s most popular multi-tool models. These models feature a black DLC finish on the pliers, blades, tools, and hardware, along with a Coyote Tan Cerakote finish applied to the handles. The two-tone color combo is available on the following models:

OHT – 16 tools – $90 MSRP

Leatherman coyote tan multi tools knife skeletool oht rebar signal 5

Rebar – 17 tools – $60 MSRP

Leatherman coyote tan multi tools knife skeletool oht rebar signal 4v2

Signal – 19 tools – $110 MSRP

Leatherman coyote tan multi tools knife skeletool oht rebar signal 6v2

Skeletool – 7 tools – $TBD (tan version not listed online at time of publication)

Leatherman

Skeletool KBX – 2 tools – $25 MSRP

Leatherman coyote tan multi tools knife skeletool oht rebar signal 2

Based on images from the Leatherman press release, it appears that a non-serrated Skeletool KB and non-DLC-coated Skeletool — seen below — will also join the Coyote Tan lineup the future.

Leatherman coyote tan multi tools knife skeletool oht rebar signal 7

For more information on the new Coyote Tan Leatherman multi tools, go to Leatherman.com/coyote-multi-tools.