Cannon in B Minor: Beretta 1301 Tactical Refreshes the Defensive Shotgun

Written by

beretta 1301 at the range

Street Howitzer. Room Broom. Scattergun. Gauge. Twelve Iron. Brixton Typewriter. These are just some of the slang terms for one of the most misunderstood defensive weapons of the 21st century — the self-defense shotgun. For many younger or newer shooters, this class of firearm has been almost entirely written off in favor of short-barreled rifles, rifle-caliber “pistols,” and pistol-caliber carbines. This phenomenon isn’t without good reason. Low recoil, high capacity, faster reloads, and a myriad of aftermarket accessories make these alternatives highly attractive to both the novice and aficionado alike. When measured against pump-action guns, the rate of fire also becomes a factor. And then there are the aggressive options like the Beretta 1301.

But the shotgun isn’t without its own advantages. Firepower per trigger press is going to be hard to beat. There’s also the ability to run buckshot, birdshot, slugs, and almost anything in between depending on your needs and ballistic preferences. Finally, the ability to put multiple “rounds” on target at once is a highly attractive proposition. To put this last point in concrete terms, a standard law enforcement duty load of 00 buckshot is nine pellets. Each pellet is .36 caliber, or just over 9 millimeters at a muzzle velocity typically between 1,100 and 1,200 feet per second. That means each time you fire a shell, you’re sending nine rounds of 9mm — more than a full magazine out of some micro-sized carry pistols — to the target at the same time.

Like the rest of the firearms industry, shotgun technology hasn’t stood still. While often overshadowed by rifle and pistol news, there are companies out there putting hard work into innovating the fighting shotgun. One of these is Beretta — a cornerstone of the high reputation that Italian shotguns have garnered across the globe. We were able to get our hands on a sample of their current premier entry, the Beretta 1301 in the tactical shotgun market, and put it through its paces, not just for performance, but for potential customization as well.

beretta 1301 full right

WHAT IT IS

While primarily known for their competition shotguns, Beretta’s no stranger to police and military arms. In the late 1980s, they came out with the 1201FP as a law enforcement-specific variant of their earlier model 1200 sporting shotgun. The 1201FP used an inertia-driven design that’s still seen in combat shotguns today. Then, around 2009, they introduced the TX4, which featured the longer receiver of the 1301 Competition but the sighting configuration of the Beretta 1301 Tactical — that wouldn’t actually come to the market until 2013. One of the most attractive features of the 1301 is its BLINK gas system. As previously stated, most semi-automatic shotguns destined for the duty market use inertia-based cycling systems. Conventional wisdom is that gas systems on shotguns are picky and unreliable and cannot handle transitions between lightweight training or less-lethal loads and full-power buckshot, slug, or door-breacher loads. The trade-off is that inertia systems transfer the bulk of recoil directly back to the shooter. Recoil is a hefty shove and multi-shot strings can lead to muzzle rise that has to be wrestled back down.

Beretta’s BLINK system has a couple of unique features that overcome these problems. The gas piston itself has a self-cleaning design as well as a semi-self-regulating split ring gas seal. The gas valve is also self-regulating, meaning the cycle speed, reliability, and recoil impulse all remain constant despite the pressure differences between ammunition types. In theory, the result is a softer, faster-shooting scattergun that can transition between lightweight bird loads and car-crushing slugs as fast as you can … blink.   

WHAT WE DID TO IT

Since modularity is a historical Achilles’ heel for shotguns as a class, we wanted to explore the aftermarket potential for the 1301 Tactical. Our multiple searches kept bringing us back to one place: Aridus Industries. Adam Roth, the founder of Aridus, built his company on an idea for a better ammo carriage system for his shotgun: the Quick Detach Carrier, or QD-C. We’ll talk more about the QD-C later, but the company eventually grew its product line out into a suite of unique products for the 1301 Tactical. We were fortunate enough to get our hands on most of them.

We started with a furniture swap. Aridus Industries sells a receiver adapter plate that allows you to remove the factory stock and replace it with the Mossberg variant of Magpul’s SGA stock. These stocks are inexpensive and use a spacer system to create a significant amount of adjustment in both length-of-pull and cheek comb height. It’s also available in several different colors.

Aridus Industries also produces a forend that uses a modified version of Magpul’s Zhukov AK rifle handguard, and an adapter to fit it over a shotgun magazine tube. With this handguard in place, we were then able to mount M-LOK accessories. Specifically, we put on a SureFire M600 Scout light with Malkoff Devices replacement head in an Arisaka mount and a Vendetta Precision handstop — the latter ensures uniform hand placement at the exact same spot every time we pick up the gun (and keeps it there under recoil). This means we can properly drive the gun while still being able to reach the push-button cap on the Scout light. We actually wound up mounting it backward, as the curvature of the “inside” of the handstop allowed our support hand to slide far enough back that we couldn’t hit the light.

Finally, on the right side of the handguard, we put on a Stage Saver shell holder from TACCOM 3G. The Stage Saver is a single shell caddy positioned directly in front of the chamber. Originally designed for three-gun competition, the idea is that when the shotgun goes to “slide lock” with the bolt locked in the open position, you simply slide that last shell backward out of the Stage Saver and drop it directly into the chamber. Send the bolt home with the release button, and you’ve got one last quick shot to get out of trouble.

The Beretta 1301 comes from the factory with a polymer Picatinny rail on top of the receiver for mounting optics. It’ll do the job. But the Aridus Industries CROM is a much more elegant solution. The Co-witness Ready Optic Mount is a direct replacement for the receiver rail and has a direct-mount footprint for either an Aimpoint T1-style optic or Trijicon RMR-style optic. We went with the former and topped it with a Holosun 403C. The Aridus mount also has a ghost ring rear sight built-in that’s designed to work with the factory front sight.

beretta 1301 reciever

The final piece of Aridus Industries goodness to go on our Beretta 1301 blaster was their flagship Quick Detach Carrier. The idea of a receiver-mounted “side saddle” caddy for extra shells isn’t new. The idea of a detachable or removable carrier isn’t new either — we’ve seen at least two versions that use Velcro to attach soft-loop caddies to the side of the receiver. What sets the QD-C apart is its novel cassette-style shell holder that clicks securely into place with a spring-loaded latch on the receiver-mounted plate. Removing it is as easy as unbuckling a seatbelt. The metal carrier won’t stretch out and deform over time like elastic loops. The spring-loaded latch won’t wear out or cake with mud, dust, or lint like hook-side Velcro. And you can order multiple carriers (they even sell a 10-pack of them!) to keep stashed in your car, load-bearing kit, rucksack, or bugout property. It’s a clever fix for one of the quintessential problems with tube-fed shotguns: capacity. The QD-C, plus the Stage Saver, gives us full reload aboard the gun.

Speaking of capacity, we added a Nordic Components MXT magazine tube extension kit, which gave us an additional two rounds for a total capacity of 7+1 when using 2¾-inch shells. This kit comes with a tube extension, nut, extra length magazine spring, and a barrel clamp that includes a section of Picatinny rail and a quick-detach socket. Finally, we took our test gun to Wright Armory in Mesa, Arizona, to have a clearance cut, radius, and polish job performed on the loading gate. Sometimes referred to as a 3 Gun Mod, the job entails removing material from the front and either side of the receiver around the loading gate. The result is an angled, funnel-shaped contour that enables faster reloads.

We now had an autoloading 12-gauge that’s self-regulating and self-cleaning, equipped with an optic, white light, handstop, and enough ammo on board to completely refill the magazine. With a full tube, full QD-C, Stage Saver, and one in the chamber, that’s a total of 15 rounds of 12 gauge on tap without ever having to reach into a pouch or pocket.

So, we took 15 rounds — and then some — and hit the range.

WHAT WE DID WITH IT

We took our fully appointed Beretta 1301 Tactical to the range with a box full of Federal 12-gauge shells. The bulk of our test ammo was their Law Enforcement 9-pellet 00 buck load, as well as several boxes of their 1.5-ounce rifled slugs. We also had a handful of Hornady Critical Defense buckshot loads. It had been a while since this author had spent any time behind a scattergun. The good news is that all the accessories worked as advertised. We had some concern about the Nordic Components magazine extension, since the included spring had to be cut to fit. The instructions simply said to snip one coil at a time until we were able to fully load the tube. But fully loading and emptying the extended tube nearly a dozen times didn’t show any feeding or reliability issue. As advertised, Beretta’s BLINK gas system puts pellets downrange with a quickness — as fast we could pull the trigger in every case. However, in terms of recoil, the system doesn’t defy physics. Felt recoil, while not nearly as stout as a pump gun, was substantial. The heavy slugs in particular took several tubes to get used to. Then, we had one great run of dropping an entire tube into the burned-out hulk of a sedan before our shoulder was begging for mercy. The LE buckshot loads were noticeably less punishing and, with practice, can be dispensed at will just as fast as you can manage muzzle rise. We suspect (and hope!) that in most situations, as with pomade, “just a dab’ll do ya.”

SHELLS ON THE DECK

The shotgun is a niche tool. It always has been and always will be. But there’s also no doubt that a properly kitted scattergun is a staple in any well-rounded home armory. Its capabilities are unique, its reputation near-legendary, and it’s effectively undisputed when applied properly. Fortunately, choosing to put a shotgun in the safe no longer requires you to settle for 19th-century cutting edge. The Beretta 1301 comes out of the box with advanced and proven engineering to optimize reliability and cycle time. Combined with a healthy suite of thoroughly modern accessories like lights and optics, you’ll have an easy-to-use, day-or-night solution to imparting immense amounts of firepower to whatever problem stands in your way.

MORE FROM OFFGRID ON FIREARMS

DIY Knuckle Duster from Spent Brass

Written by

After spending hours at the range and (hopefully) cleaning up as many of your spent casings as possible, why waste all that valuable metal when you can put it to good use? Sure, reloading spent casings is always a great option, but there are other ways to make use of brass besides using them as décor for your belt or guitar strap. Compared to other metals, brass has a low melting point, lower even than silver or gold, making it the perfect candidate to turn into liquid and cast into something that is sure to impress. It is very important that all of the casings you collect for this project are brass, not another kind of alloy. So, grab a bucket, fill it with spent casings, and let’s get started casting a knuckle duster!

spent brass by ccaliber

Now there's a reason to hold onto that spent .22 brass.

Design    

To get started, you will want to flesh out a design on paper, or better yet, cardstock. Use a note card or the cardboard from a cereal box or case of beer. Just sketch out a brass knuckle duster design approximately the same size as you would have the finished project be. If you are artistically challenged, there is a plethora of brass knuckle outlines on the world wide web that you can use for inspiration or copy-paste-print. The design I am using is modeled after the UK military-issued brass knuckles circa WWII. When you are satisfied with the design, carefully cut the design from the paper, including all of the finger holes. This template will be used as a stencil for the following steps. Double-check that the cut-out template fits your hand, and make any modifications that may be necessary for a comfortable grip. I also suggest reading this article all the way through before starting, making note of any materials you will need to acquire. Careful preparation will reduce the risk of heating and pouring molten metal.

Knuckle Duster Design

Taking time with the design phase will help refine the final result when making your own Knuckle Dusters.

Next, you will need to find a piece of Styrofoam that matches your desired dimensions and use the template to stencil your design and cut away the excess foam. I used some scrap home insulation foam, but any rigid Styrofoam will work. Do not use the spongy foam used in mattress toppers or pillows. The result should be foam knuckles as close in shape and quality as you would like the finished brass knuckles to be. The fewer defects in your foam knuckles, the better the final product will be.

 

Prepping the Cast

Plaster of Paris, which can be found in most art sections of department stores, should be thoroughly mixed to a consistency slightly more runny than peanut butter. The smoother the mixture the better. Any lumps or inconsistencies could be a headache later on. Place the foam knuckle duster on a piece of aluminum foil with the most aesthetically pleasing surface facing up, and cover any exposed foam thoroughly with the plaster. Any exposed foam should be covered with ¼ to ½ inch of plaster. Let the plaster of Paris dry completely overnight or until you are sure there is no moisture left.

As the plaster is drying, you can prep the next steps. You will need a container wide and deep enough to hold your Styrofoam knuckles and at least three inches of sand in every direction. If you do some internet sleuthing on metal casting, you will find recommendations for products like professional casting sand and tutorials on how to make your own casting sand. Buying those products is not necessary for the sake of this project. A normal bag of sandbox sand will work. When you are sure the plaster is dry, you can carefully embed the plastered foam knuckles into the top of the sand, still leaving the top exposed. Be very careful not to crack or break the plaster.

 

Fire Up the Furnace

To heat and melt the brass enough to pour into the knuckle duster mold, you’ll need some kind of refractory to get the temperatures high enough. There are countless tutorials online on how to do this, and you can invest as much or as little time and money as you prefer. You can even build your own forge. Because I do some hobby blacksmithing, I just use my own  — it isn’t ideal, but it’ll get the job done.  Lastly, you’ll need something to use as a crucible, the container you’ll melt the casings in. A graphite crucible is ideal and inexpensive, but there are ways you can improvise. The key is to ensure your crucible’s melting point is much higher than that of the brass. A steel crucible will work in a pinch, but if your refractory gets too hot, the steel will melt, and you’ll lose all your melted brass.

melting spent brass in a crucible

This is the part where DIY begins to feel less like a craft project, and more like a hobby.

Now it is finally time to melt those spent casings, but before you heat them up, carefully inspect the bottoms and ensure the blasting caps have been fired. The last thing you want is for a blasting cap to pop while it is sitting a puddle of molten brass. Get your refractory fired up, fill your crucible with the casings, and carefully place it in the heat with tongs long enough to keep your hands a safe distance away. As the brass heats up, you’ll see the casings liquify. Estimating the necessary volume of casings with any degree of accuracy is difficult, so it is wise to melt more brass than you think you’ll need. This is also the time to make sure your plastered foam knuckle duster is set properly in the sand and nearby, so you won’t have far to move the crucible.

casting knuckle dusters from spent brass

Brass has a lower heat conductivity than aluminum, so it holds onto its heat longer. Keep that in mind while waiting...

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, and as it melts, the zinc may burn and create smoke which, if inhaled, could cause flu-like symptoms. Also, if you melt it for too long, you will create a layer of yellow-looking dross, impurities which coagulate and collect as the metal burns. You may end up trying several times before you get the hang of it, but the rewards are worth the efforts! When the brass is melted, carefully pick up the crucible with the tongs and pour it evenly over the exposed foam. The foam will burn away and be replaced with the brass. Fumes from melting brass and Styrofoam are toxic, and these steps should be done in a well-ventilated area. Any precautions to safeguard your respiration should be taken. I also suggest wearing safety glasses, welding gloves, and a long-sleeved shirt and pants made of non-synthetic fiber.

Finishing Touches

It will be tempting to check your results as soon as possible, but resist the urge! Even after the brass solidifies, it will be hot enough to inflict serious burns for a while afterwards. To find out how hot a cast piece of metal was, I dropped it in a bucket of cool water ten minutes after the liquid metal solidified. The water began to boil instantly! Play it safe and let it cool for several hours before plucking it from the sand. When you are certain it is cool enough to inspect, clean or break off any plaster that is left over and admire your work. If there are any flaws or deformities, they can be corrected with files or grinders, and if it is to your liking, you can make it stand out with some sanding, buffing, or polishing. The best part about this project, is if you are not happy with the results, you can always prep another piece of Styrofoam, re-melt the brass, and try again as many times as you wish.

complete DIY knuckle duster

Once free of the plaster, make refining touches with metal files and sandpaper.

As you can see, my casting didn’t quite fill out as perfectly as I would like, and that’s okay. Because I’m using a forge instead of a refractory, the molten brass cooled too quickly and didn’t fill as much of the mold as I would have liked. On top of that, there were some impurities (dross) that I was unable to remove while it was in the crucible. But even though the last knuckle is not entirely enclosed, I would like to think of it as what Bob Ross would term “a happy accident,” and utilize the gap as a bottle opener! Next time, I will improve my method and make something more impressive. This project is not exclusive to making a knuckle duster — this same DIY casting concept can be used to make anything you can carve out of the Styrofoam. So, don’t throw away the casings of the ammunition you spent all that money on — put it to good use and create something!

Other Top DIY guides

 

EDC Flashlight Review

Written by

Summer is officially here, and with it comes a natural variation in wardrobe. Warmer weather leads to lightweight clothing and increased physical activity, neither of which is conducive to pockets crammed full of gear. It’s for this reason that many of us pare down our everyday carry slightly for this season. Maybe that means you start carrying a single-stack subcompact handgun instead of a double-stack full-size, or a lightweight folding knife instead of something more robust. What it shouldn’t mean is that you start leaving behind the essentials. Murphy’s Law dictates the moment that happens is the moment you’ll need those items the most. A EDC flashlight is one such essential tool.

The light in your pocket will help you figure out what the heck your dog keeps barking at in the backyard, find the pen that fell between the seats of your truck, and read the menu in your spouse’s favorite obnoxiously dim restaurant. And unlike a keychain light or the tiny LED on your cell phone, it can provide the focused illumination you need to clear your house if you come home to a door that’s unexpectedly ajar.

However, flashlights can get heavy and bulky, so we decided to compare seven models that can fit into even the smallest pockets. One key constraint was that each of these lights must run on a single CR123 battery. Most of our typical EDC lights are powered by two of these batteries, so we already have plenty of spares on hand, making the seasonal transition easier. If swapping gear out becomes a hassle, you’ll be more prone to leave it at home, so interchangeability is an important consideration.

Read on as we evaluate seven single-CR123 flashlights to determine which might fit your minimalist EDC loadout.

EDC Flashlight: 5.11 Tactical Rapid L1

Notes: This light serves as a replacement to the discontinued 5.11 Tactical TMT L1, which produced 212 lumens from a Cree XPG-B LED. Using a newer Cree XP-L2 V5 LED, the Rapid L1 now offers 290 lumens, and also features a revised switch design and shorter overall length. However, comparing the lights side-by-side, the Rapid looks almost identical, aside from the new name, different tail cap, and some extra texture around the head.

The updated switch is a big improvement over the old TMT series and is now much easier to press with a nice tactile click feel. Raised guards on each side protect it from accidental presses, although we feel these could’ve been shorter and more rounded for improved comfort. Output is 290 lumens on high and 19 on low, with an additional high-power strobe function. The beam pattern appears as a soft spotlight with a subtler flood pattern around the periphery. Unfortunately, the output has a noticeable blue tint, which causes it to appear substantially less powerful than the other lights in this guide. We’ve found this to be a common problem among inexpensive flashlights, and once you learn to recognize it, it’s hard to overlook.

We’ve had plenty of great experiences with 5.11 Tactical packs, apparel, and other products, so it’s unfortunate that this updated light design still feels a few steps behind the competition. It’s definitely an improvement on the old TMT, but it’s far from cutting-edge.

 

Dimensions: 3.5 by 1.0 inches
Claimed Max Output: 290 lumens
Claimed Max Runtime: 2 hours 7 minutes
Weight with Battery: 2.5 ounces
Output Modes: High, low, strobe
MSRP: $50
URL: www.511tactical.com

Pros:
>Aluminum body feels tough and is rated IPX7 water-resistant to 1 meter immersion
> Tail cap switch is easy to use to cycle through modes and gives a positive click for constant activation.

Cons:
> Strong bluish tint makes the output feel dimmer than it actually is
> Tail cap is sharper and more aggressive than the bezel, so using it as an impact weapon is more likely to hurt your thumb than an attacker

EDC Flashlight: Coast XP6R

Notes: After seeing the brand-new XP6R at SHOT Show in January, we immediately wanted to get our hands on one. When we started working on this article, the production version of the light wasn’t quite ready, but Coast kindly sent us this pre-production prototype. It’s part of a new XP Series of flashlights and will accept a Coast Zithion X rechargeable battery (included) or a single CR123 (not included). Based on the generic blue battery that arrived with the prototype XP6R, it looks like Zithion X will be Coast’s private-label 3.7V 650mAh 16340 battery with a built-in micro USB port. As you might expect, output is visibly reduced when using a CR123, dropping from a maximum of 480 lumens to 290 lumens.

As with many other Coast lights, the XP6R features the company’s signature slide-focusing optic, which lets the user rearrange output from a tight spot to a wide flood pattern by moving the head back and forth with a thumb. This is especially helpful for map reading and other close-up tasks where a spot beam would be detrimental. If most of the items you need to illuminate are within arm’s reach, the XP6R has a clear advantage over the other lights in this guide. Low, medium, and high modes are cycled with each press of the tail cap switch, but no memory function is present, so each time you turn it on, you’ll have to click the button a few times to select the appropriate output. This light is expected to go on sale in the fourth quarter of 2020.

Dimensions: 3.6 by 1.1 inches
Claimed Max Output: 480 lumens (see notes)
Claimed Max Runtime: 15.5 hours
Weight with Battery: 2.6 ounces
Output Modes: Low, medium, high
MSRP: $40
URL: www.coastportland.com

Pros:
The slide-focusing optic offers outstanding versatility. We’ve always been a fan of this feature on Coast’s flashlights.
Nice ergonomics and aesthetics, from the knobby machined ridges on the body to the anodized trim ring and sculpted lanyard hole

Cons:
It lacks a pocket clip, and that’s practically a deal-breaker for us in this category. Carrying a flashlight loose in a pocket makes it harder to access and easier to activate by accident.
No mode memory — this means that if you turn off the light in high mode, it’ll turn back on in low mode next time, then medium the following time.

EDC Flashlight: Fenix E18R

Notes: This impressively tiny light is the smallest in our guide by a substantial margin, with dimensions that are comparable to a USB flash drive or mini BIC lighter. Despite this, it packs in an impressive amount of features. There are four brightness levels, ranging from 5 to 750 lumens, plus a strobe function. There’s a side activation button with a battery indicator LED in the middle, and a lockout function to prevent accidental activation (double-click the button to toggle lockout). On the opposite side of the head, you’ll find a circular charging contact that attaches to the included magnetic USB cable. The light’s tail cap also contains a magnet, so it can be stuck to surfaces such as a toolbox or car hood for hands-free illumination. A removable pocket clip and lanyard are also included.

Although the E18R can be powered by a standard CR123 battery, the magnetic charging function only works with the included Fenix 3.6V 16340 battery or similar models with integrated protection circuits. A standard or rechargeable CR123 “can be used for emergency,” according to the manual, but lumen output will be reduced. Additionally, plugging in the magnetic charger while one of these batteries is installed could cause a fire or explosion. Thankfully, the power button LED clearly indicates charge status ranging from full (green) to critical (red flashing) so you’ll know when it’s time to swap out or plug in.

If you’re heading out in gym shorts and a T-shirt with a bare minimum amount of gear, but still want to carry a flashlight, the E18R is a great choice. It’s about as small as you can get before you leave the realm of pocket flashlights and start looking into micro keychain lights.

Dimensions: 2.4 by 1.0 inches
Claimed Max Output: 750 lumens (see notes)
Claimed Max Runtime: 70 hours
Weight with Battery: 1.8 ounces
Output Modes: Low, medium, high, turbo, strobe
MSRP: $65
URL: www.fenixlight.com

Pros:
> Compact design isn’t much larger than the battery it contains, yet crams in a surprising list of features
> The magnetic charger provides a convenient way to make sure your light is always topped off and ready to go. It works great in a car USB port, too.

Cons:
> The small, side-mounted activation button and similarly shaped magnetic charging contact can lead to some clumsy fumbling while trying to turn on the light.
> If the special magnetic cable is lost or misplaced, finding a replacement will be a hassle.

EDC Flashlight: HDS Systems EDC Tactical, 325 Lumens (OFFGRID Top Pick)

Notes: At most companies, engineers work within specific constraints and budgets set by project managers. At HDS Systems, the engineer runs the company. This is clearly evident in every aspect of the EDC Tactical light, starting with its straightforward name and no-frills knurled aluminum body. Its only identifying marks are the brand name and serial discreetly engraved on the bezel in a plain font. But like a Swiss watch, there’s an obsessive degree of attention to detail beneath the surface.

The light’s key feature is its rotary control mechanism. Twisting the tail cap adjusts between 24 constant brightness settings, momentary strobe, and momentary full output; each is activated via a satisfyingly crisp click switch. Rather than performing occasional quality control checks like most manufacturers, HDS Systems manually calibrates every light to its exact lumen rating in-house. The company’s website offers detailed descriptions of components, including the PVD antireflective lens coating, black-nitride-coated stainless bezel, trapezoidal Acme threads, proprietary constant power LED regulation system, and custom software that has gone through nearly two dozen revisions (ours has version 2.18). When was the last time you thought about the software version your flashlight is running?

The EDC Tactical comes with a four-page user guide, but there’s a downloadable 20-page advanced guide that’ll teach you how to unlock its many programmable functions. If that’s not enough, you can custom-order a light with a variety of LED types, battery types, and other features such as a sapphire crystal (!) instead of glass. There’s even a limited-production C173 beryllium copper body option that brings the light’s price to more than $1,000. No, that wasn’t a typo — one thousand dollars.

Dimensions: 3.9 by 1.0 inches
Claimed Max Output: 325 lumens
Claimed Max Runtime: 121 hours
Weight with Battery: 3.7 ounces
Output Modes: Constant-on with 24 brightness level increments, momentary maximum, momentary strobe
MSRP: $314
URL: www.hdssystems.com

Pros:
> With tight tolerances, tactile controls, and extreme attention to detail, this light exudes quality in a way that’s hard to convey on paper.
> If you’re the type of person who has strong feelings about CRI and beam pattern, and frequently gets into debates on flashlight forums, this might be the light you always wanted.

Cons:
> Lacks a built-in pocket clip — the slip-on clip seen here is an optional accessory and not an ideal retention solution because of the rotary control scheme.
> Although we understand the reasons for the premium price, it’s likely to deter all but the most diehard lighting enthusiasts from purchasing this product.

EDC Flashlight: Nitecore EC11

Notes: The EC11 accepts a CR123 battery, but after using it, that starts to feel like an afterthought. The first sign of this is the spec sheet, which shows that the light produces 900 lumens with a Nitecore IMR 18350 3.7V battery, but 430 lumens with a regular 3V CR123. Additionally, the battery compartment contains a removable plastic spacer that serves to prevent a slightly narrower CR123 battery from rattling around. This wouldn’t bother us if the light came with an 18350 battery by default, but it doesn’t. That battery requires a separate charging cradle if you don’t have one already. Nitecore offers these two optional items for $17 with the purchase of this flashlight, effectively bringing the price to $77.

If, like us, you didn’t buy the Nitecore battery, you’ll need to be careful what you use. Various standard 3V CR123s worked fine, but at diminished brightness as expected. The Coast light’s unbranded 3.7V 16340 battery also worked properly and appeared to produce higher lumen output. However, a Fenix 3.6V 16340 and (more surprisingly) Nitecore’s own NL166 3.7V rechargeable CR123 yielded strange results. Cycling through modes appeared to eliminate low and medium — the light went from ultralow straight to high, then two more identical high settings, and finally turbo.

The EC11 offers a secondary red LED with constant and signal flash modes; it can also display battery power status “when out of the door” [sic]. If you see a pattern of two flashes, a pause, and eight flashes, that indicates 2.8V. The white LED features constant, strobe, SOS, and slow-flashing location beacon functions.

Dimensions: 3.0 by 1.0 inches
Claimed Max Output: 900 lumens (see notes)
Claimed Max Runtime: 12 hours
Weight with Battery: 2.3 ounces
Output Modes: Ultralow, low, medium, high, turbo, strobe, SOS, slow flash; secondary red LED
MSRP: $60
URL: www.nitecore.com

Pros:
> Red LED is a nice addition, especially with its ability to serve as a battery voltage gauge
> 430 lumens is bright enough for most purposes, but …

Cons:
> … the EC11 is boldly advertised at 900 lumens. Unless you spend extra for a special Nitecore IMR 18350 battery, you won’t be able to reach that maximum output.
> Testing revealed it to be very picky about power sources. Several brightness modes didn’t function correctly with some types of rechargeable CR123/16340 batteries.

EDC Flashlight: Streamlight ProTac 1L-1AA (OFFGRID Best Value)

Notes: As much as we appreciate the power and reliability of the CR123 battery for our EDC flashlights and weapon lights, we still recognize that it has some downsides. The biggest among those is availability. You can’t always walk into a gas station or corner store and know that you’ll be able to buy a spare. That’s certainly not the case with AA batteries, which are sold virtually everywhere. Recognizing this, Streamlight made a flashlight that takes either 1L (lithium CR123) or 1AA.

AAs and CR123s provide completely different levels of juice — 1.5V and 3V, respectively — and this has a direct effect on lighting performance. With a CR123, the 1L-1AA can produce 350 lumens for 1 hour and 30 minutes; with an AA alkaline battery, it’ll only produce 150 lumens for 1 hour and 20 minutes. For this reason, the former will be our primary power source, and the latter is a fallback option. Still, we’re thankful for it.

This light is constructed from solid aluminum finished in either black or coyote tan (pictured). It offers three modes, each of which can be activated in constant or momentary fashion. Streamlight’s Ten-Tap system allows the user to choose high/strobe/low, high only, or low/high configuration. Each light includes one of each type of battery, a removable pocket clip, and a nylon belt holster. Real-world prices for Streamlight products are often well below MSRP, and this is no exception. It can be found for less than $40 online, making it an excellent value.

Dimensions: 4.3 by 1.0 inches
Claimed Max Output: 350 lumens
Claimed Max Runtime: 14 hours
Weight with Battery: 2.4 ounces
Output Modes: Low, high, strobe
MSRP: $68 (see notes)
URL: www.streamlight.com

Pros:
> Compatibility with AA alkaline or lithium batteries is a huge advantage from a survivalist perspective, and provides a backup power option if resources are scarce
> 350-lumen high mode and 40-lumen low mode offer enough versatility for close- and medium-range tasks

Cons:
> Prior experience has taught us that these Streamlight pocket clips have a tendency to loosen and pop off.

EDC Flashlight: Haley Strategic / SureFire D3FT Combat Light

Notes: This light was conceptualized by Haley Strategic Partners, the company founded by Force-Recon-Marine-turned-shooting-instructor Travis Haley, and manufactured by SureFire. Its D3FT designation stands for Disruptive 3nvironments Firefly Technique (we’re not entirely sure what a threenvironment is). In a video on the company’s YouTube channel, Haley explains that its name is pronounced “deft,” as in “neatly skillful and quick in one’s movements.”

Regardless of these elaborate naming conventions, the D3FT’s design has an interesting logic behind it. It features a sturdy aluminum ring between the head and battery compartment, which is intended to be used alongside a handgun in the SureFire/Rogers grip — this involves placing the light between the index and middle fingers of your support hand, then pulling it back into a closed fist to depress the tail cap switch using the heel of your palm. This feels slightly awkward at first if you’re used to a thumb-on-tail-cap “icepick” grip, and may not work as well for those with smaller hands or less grip strength, but we quickly got the hang of it.

Functionally, the D3FT is about as simple as it gets. There’s one brightness level, which can be activated in momentary mode with a partial press or constant mode with a full click. Loosening the tail cap serves as a lockout. The beam is focused into a fairly dense spot pattern, comparable to other SureFire weapon-oriented lights like the EDCL series or E2D.

Dimensions: 4.1 by 1.3 inches
Claimed Max Output: 500 lumens
Claimed Max Runtime: 1 hour
Weight with Battery: 3.3 ounces
Output Modes: High only
MSRP: $169
URL: haleystrategic.com
(not available directly from SureFire)

Pros:
> The combination of aggressively knurled body, full-fist length, and central grip ring make this light easy to retain and manipulate.
> Its tail cap offers the perfect degree of springy responsiveness for reliable momentary or constant activation.

Cons:
> We like the pocket clip’s stiffness, but its leading edge is almost completely flat. This made the D3FT difficult to slip back into a pocket one-handed, especially with thick-stitched jeans.
> Single output and 1-hour runtime make this much better as a combat light than a utility light

Southern Survival: when BattlBox gets its own Netflix Original

Written by

Weird Flex, but… okay. Some of us have lost track the many subscription boxes there are, but how many of them have their own Netflix series? Only one: BattlBox. Having just launched before the holiday, Southern Survival brings the comedy of backyard testing to a grand scale, putting curated items to task proving they can cut the mustard.

From the opening of the first episode, the BattlBox staff laugh their way though blowing things up, burning them down, and trying out things like vehicle glass breakers, backpacks with a built-in belay system to get out of burning buildings, various machetes, and a settler's wrench. The show has its jokes, and sticks to a good heart of this-versus-that testing, except with flamethrowers. It's fun, definitely American, and takes the edge off heavy topics like breaking out of a car caught underwater.

Southern Survival tests stay lit matches.
Southern Survival takes testing to comical limits. Image Courtesy of Netflix

Tying a Netflix original series to a company that sources products for its audience has some novelty, but making a show about the trials and tribulations of sorting what comes in the box is a whole new level of thinking outside the… I'll let that be. Jokes aside, in one episode we got to see some things in action that would have been really nice in Ranger School. As preparedness is an American tradition, the subjects chosen are from real scenarios that pop into our head late at night from a house fire to wilderness survival.

As current events have reminded the world of the inherent fragility of polite society, perhaps Southern Survival, a mix of Myth Busters meets Duck Dynasty, is the right blend of humor and practicality. The knives, invincible matches, and things like the breach pen can be found at their website, whether they come in a mystery box or a specific order. So no fear, if something great comes in the box, they'll help you find another.

 

Pocket Preps: Keychain Tools

Written by

The most important thing about owning a tool is having it when you need it most. Think of a compact pistol in a self-defense situation or a first-aid kit after a catastrophic accident. Neither does you any good if it’s sitting at home while you’re on the road. Of course, it’s not always possible to carry a whole toolbox everywhere you go. Hence, keychain tools can go anywhere.

That’s why humans have used multi-tools for centuries — at least since roughly 200 A.D. when the Roman Empire was using a folding utensil set. That’s why our focus here is on multipurpose gadgets that can fit on your keychain ring.

Why rummage through your bug-out bag for the right tool when you can just reach into your pocket? What these little keychain tools lack in size and leverage they make up in portability. Need to wrench a bolt? Tighten a screw? Or pop open a bottle cap? Check, check, and check. In fact, a couple of these keychain tools could even work as a get-off-me tool in a violent scenario with enough training.

While none of them can help you build an emergency shelter, most can add more functionality to your daily loadout without adding that much more weight.

Big Idea Design Titanium Pocket Clip

OAL
2.25 inches

Material
Titanium

Weight
0.5 ounce

MSRP
$40

URL
bigidesign.com

Notes


The Titanium Pocket Clip (or TPC) is first and foremost a suspension clip; hook it to your pocket or your belt loop so your keys don’t lie in a pile at the bottom of your pocket. It also has a bottle opener, 1-inch ruler, key ring holder, and a ¼-inch hex bit driver — all integrated into its small frame. (A $10 upgrade gets you a built-in LED light.)

Pros:
> Lightweight and super strong titanium construction
> Its brilliant suspension design frees up pocket real estate
> Props to Big Idea for its outside-the-box engineering

Cons:
> Essentially, it’s a Gucci key ring holder with a bottle opener; the ruler is too short to be practical and the TPC’s small size makes using the hex bit driver a tad frustrating.

Columbia River Knife & Tool KERT

OAL
2.48 inches

Material
8Cr13MoV stainless steel

Weight
0.8 ounce

MSRP
$10

URL
crkt.com

Notes


The KERT (Keyring Emergency Rescue Tool) is a keychain tool that has an integrated seat belt cutter, which can also slice clothes, webbing, or other fibrous material. The stainless steel frame also houses four other built-in functions: screwdriver, bottle opener, oxygen tank opener, and ¼-inch hex wrench. Comes with key ring and vinyl slip-sheath.

Pros:
> The integral seat belt cutter is a smart SHTF feature.
> Sturdy flat screwdriver
> Comes with a large key ring
> Easy on the wallet

Cons:
> Even with the slip-sheath, its corners are still kinda pokey — an innate drawback to one-piece multi-tools.
> Bottle-opener design limits leverage

Gerber Gear Shard (OFFGRID BEST VALUE)

OAL
2.75 inches

Material
8Cr13 stainless steel

Weight
1 ounce

MSRP
$7

URL
gerbergear.com

Notes


This little keychain tool has seven integrated tools: pry bar, key ring hole, wire stripper, bottle opener, cross driver, small flat driver, and medium flat driver. We also used it as an improvised box opener. A titanium nitride coating keeps wear and corrosion at bay. The Shard is promoted as being airline safe, so you can travel with it in most airports, too.

Pros:
> Plenty of functions for its size
> TSA-friendly travel companion
> Cheapest of the bunch
> Drivers work well despite being so slim

Cons:
> Like most one-piece multi-tools, the Shard can give a minor jab when you sit a certain way or reach into your pocket.
> Wire strippers are basically just for show.

Kershaw Knives PT-2

OAL
3.25 inches

Material
3Cr13 stainless steel

Weight
0.8 ounce

MSRP
$12

URL
kershawknives.com

Notes


Kershaw’s PT-2 is easy to use and provides an abundance of helpful features — all in a slim package that costs less than a movie ticket. It’s longer than most one-piece multi-tools (boosting leverage) while offering eight functions, including a pry bar, two screwdrivers, and a bottle opener. Plus, it comes with a key ring.

Pros:
> Longer frame is easier to hold and use
> Glass-filled nylon handle boosts grippy-ness
> Affordable functionality
> Included key ring

Cons:
> The PT-2 would be a flawless keychain tool if it had a cutting element (i.e. blade, cord cutter, etc.).

Leatherman Squirt PS4 (OFFGRID TOP PICK)

OAL (Closed)
2.25 inches

Material
420HC stainless steel, 6061 aluminum

Weight
2 ounces

MSRP
$40

URL
leatherman.com

Notes


Leatherman is synonymous with the term “multi-tool.” So, no surprise, the Squirt PS4 is hands-down not only the most comfortable model in this buyer’s guide (thanks to its smooth handles), but also the most useful. It comes with nine mini tools, including pliers, a 1.6-inch blade, and spring-action scissors. An easy choice for our Top Pick Award.

Pros:
> Loaded with nine useful tools
> Easy to use
> Comfortable to carry in your pocket
> Classic design scaled down

Cons:
> Though a liner lock for the blade would fatten up the Squirt, it’d increase safety

Nite Ize Doohic Key Key Chain Knife

OAL (closed)
2.25 inches

Material
420J2 stainless steel, aluminum

Weight
0.7 ounce

MSRP
$13

URL
niteize.com

Notes


The DoohicKey is a solid selection if you’re looking for a budget keychain knife. You can’t baton firewood with its 420J2 stainless steel blade, but its 2-inch length gives more cutting edge than most other keychain tools or knives. Plus, the included S-Biner MicroLock (a twist-to-lock carabiner) makes it easy to secure or detach the knife to packs or key rings.

Pros:
> Strong lockback locking mechanism
> Dual-locking carabiner
> Budget friendly

Cons:
> No additional tools other than blade and carabiner
> Though corrosion resistant, 420J2 steel is soft and dulls quickly

Pangea Designs Prylobite

OAL (closed)
3.3 inches

Material
S35VN stainless steel, G10

Weight
0.7 ounce

MSRP
$125

URL
pangeadesigns.com

Notes


When fossil meets future. The Prylobite might appear to be nothing more than a unique-looking friction folding knife, but it’s actually a cool, versatile six-in-one multi-tool. Aside from the 1.7-inch-long blade, this top-quality gadget also has a pry bar, hex driver, screwdriver, bottle opener, and suspension clip (to hang as a keychain tool or from your belt loop).

Pros:
> Premium S35VN steel
> G10 handle improves grip without adding weight
> Visually appealing and practical

Cons:
> Locking mechanism requires threading the included Nite Ize S-Biner carabiner through the blade and handle — secure but inconvenient.

SOG Specialty Knives & Tools MacV Tool

OAL
2.5 inches

Material
420 stainless steel

Weight
0.5 ounce

MSRP
$15

URL
sogknives.com

Notes


This odd skull-shaped medallion is actually a 12-in-one multi-tool that’s designed to resemble the Vietnam-era insignia of the covert Studies and Observations Group which SOG is named after. It’s jammed with the usual tools (i.e. drivers and wrenches) as well as some pleasant surprises, including a cord cutter and a blade sharpener.

Pros:
> A slew of integrated tools
> Unique special operations motif
> Carbide blade sharpener
> TSA-friendly

Cons:
> The short driver heads combined with the 90-degree orientation makes using it as a screwdriver awkward and impractical.

Read More for Pocket Preps

Emergency Communications: Handheld Radios

Written by

What’s the key factor that has made humans the dominant species on Earth? Many would say it all comes down to our ability to use tools, dating back to the first time our cave-dwelling ancestors crafted a blade or smacked two rocks together to spark a fire. But that claim overlooks a much greater advantage: our ability to work together through sophisticated methods of communication. Enter the world of handheld radios.

As the English poet John Donne put it, “No man is an island entire of itself; every man is a piece of the continent, a part of the main.” We have succeeded through collaborating to build societies, and none of that would be possible if we hadn’t developed spoken and written methods to communicate with each other. Although television shows and movies often portray the quintessential survivalist as a grizzled lone wolf, totally independent of the crumbling ruins of humanity, that couldn’t be further from the truth. Alone, we’re vulnerable; together, we can support one another.

It’s critical to have a plan for emergency communication if something goes wrong, especially for those of us who venture out into the wilderness and distance ourselves from society. We’ve all heard the stories of lost hikers who wandered off-course or got injured in a remote location, nearly dying because they were unable to call for help. The irony behind these stories is that long-range communication these days is easier than ever before — our ancestors would be astonished by the capabilities of the cell phones we carry in our pockets. However, those same cell phones can lull us into a false sense of security. If your phone’s battery dies, its screen is smashed, it’s out of range of the nearest cell tower, or a widespread disaster has disabled or overloaded local infrastructure, is your only backup plan to start sending smoke signals?

Thankfully, there’s an inexpensive, reliable, and highly capable alternative to cell phones. Despite claims to the contrary, handheld radios are anything but obsolete, and while there’s certainly a learning curve involved, they’re not as difficult to use as you might think. In order to get up to speed on how to effectively use a radio in a survival setting, we signed up for an Intro to Emergency Radio Communication course hosted by Independence Training in Arizona. Guest instructor Ted Harden covered a huge range of topics, from the absolute basics of selecting a radio and making a distress call to more advanced techniques. Read on for an overview of some of the lessons we learned at this class.

Before You Get Started

We’ll begin with an important disclaimer — it’s essential to understand your radio’s capabilities as well as local and federal laws before you begin transmitting.

Harden made it extremely clear that it’s easy to inadvertently break the law with many common handheld radios (HTs), such as the Baofeng UV-5R used by most of the students in his classes. The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) has imposed fines of $25,000 or more on individuals who got caught breaking the rules, and serious offenses can even lead to jail time. Admittedly, the likelihood of getting caught by the FCC for a one-time infraction is minimal, since their investigators are primarily looking for corporations and “pirate” radio stations who illegally broadcast high-power signals on a daily basis. Improper use of your radio may also lead to contact from local law enforcement agencies — Harden says the Department of Fish and Game might monitor the airwaves to track down poachers, especially outside hunting season.

Above: Many handhelds come with a short “duck” antenna, like the one seen here. For an easy upgrade, replace it with a longer whip antenna.

Aside from the financial and legal ramifications, misusing your radio can interfere with important emergency services. In April 2017, an unauthorized radio signal triggered the tornado warning network in Dallas, Texas, causing sirens throughout the suburbs to blare for 95 minutes until workers cut power to the system. On a smaller scale, broadcasting on the wrong frequency can interrupt communications between EMS, fire, and police agencies who may be responding to urgent calls.

If you’re in a true life-and-death emergency, these rules can be bent or broken. In any other case, it’s wise to exercise caution and read up on the laws in your area before you buy or use a radio.

Understanding the Bands

The class began by discussing common bands, or segments of the radio frequency spectrum, as well as the radio categories within those bands. There are three bands you should be aware of: HF, VHF, and UHF. See the sidebar for definitions of these and other key terms.

HF is primarily useful for intercontinental communications, since it can bounce off the ionosphere to cross extremely long distances. This so-called skywave communication can be inconsistent due to changes in atmospheric conditions and is less useful for emergencies, since someone on another continent probably won’t be able to come to your aid.

VHF and UHF are our primary areas of operation, and each has its advantages. VHF’s longer wavelength is better at pushing through brush and trees in outdoor areas; UHF’s shorter wavelength is better at bouncing off buildings and other metallic obstructions in urban areas.

Traditional walkie-talkies feature fixed antennas and low power, so they’re not ideal for long-range communication.

There are several important subcategories within VHF and UHF:

Family Radio Service (FRS): If you’ve ever used the walkie-talkies sold in blister packs at retail stores, you’ve probably used this service. FRS radios require no license but are limited to 2 watts of output power and can’t use a detachable antenna, so you’ll rarely see range beyond a mile.

Multi-Use Radio Service (MURS): Like FRS, this service doesn’t require a license. It’s slightly better due to the ability to use external antennas, but the FCC’s guidelines for MURS prohibit the use of repeaters to extend range.

General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS): This service is one step better for emergency communication purposes, since it can be used with repeaters. It requires a $70 license, but there’s no test required, the license lasts for 10 years, and it automatically applies to all members of your immediate family. However, power restrictions limit its range in comparison to ham radio.

Ham/Amateur Radio: Ham radio offers the most versatile capabilities and the most robust community of operators to communicate with. However, in order to legally use a ham radio, you’ll need to pass a test and get a license. There are three license categories: Technician, General, and Extra. The first is the most practical for general emergency preparedness; the associated 35-question multiple-choice test costs about $15 and can be passed easily after studying for about a week. The other two categories offer increasing levels of access to HF for intercontinental communication.

When you take a ham radio license test, you can find out immediately if you passed or failed. If you failed the test by only a few questions, you can often retake a slightly different version of it on the same day (you'll need to get approval from the Volunteer Examiner who is proctoring the test and pay the fee again). After passing the test and waiting a week or two for processing, you’ll be assigned a six-character call sign. At that point, you’re cleared to begin transmitting.

Important Note: To become a licensed ham radio operator, you must submit your full name and mailing address to the FCC, and this information is entered into a public online database. If someone knows your call sign, they can easily look you up. It’s possible to use a P.O. box on your license to maintain some privacy, but keep in mind that this is an additional cost to consider.

Above: A mobile radio in your vehicle can offer substantially more power than a handheld. Pair this with a tall, roof-mounted antenna to maximize range.

Range, Elevation, and Power

Both VHF and UHF radios require line of sight between your antenna and the recipient’s antenna. This means that if you’re holding a handheld radio (HT) with its antenna at head level and your friend is doing the same, assuming perfectly flat ground with no obstructions, your maximum range will be limited to roughly three miles due to the curvature of the Earth. Go to hamuniverse.com/lineofsightcalculator.html for more examples and a range calculator. In the real world, you might see a maximum of one to two miles between two HTs on a good day.

If you’re thinking that a mile or two probably isn’t enough range to call for rescue, you’re absolutely right. The first way to extend that range is to get more elevation by physically moving to the top of a nearby hill or building and/or using a taller antenna. Most handheld radios come with a standard “rubber duck” antenna that’s only a few inches long. This can be replaced with a flexible whip antenna for a slight improvement. For a larger improvement, a roll-up backpacking antenna can be connected to your handheld via a length of coaxial cable and hung from a tree or other tall object. This can provide a maximum range of 20 miles or more. Magnetic antennas mount to the roof of a vehicle or other flat metal surface, using it as a ground plane to extend range even further. Directional “Yagi” antennas are another worthwhile option, but are less portable and must be aimed carefully. But above all, height is critical.

The second way to improve range is to use a radio that offers higher power output, measured in watts. Most handhelds are 5W or 8W, and Harden says the difference in that range is usually negligible in the real world — antenna quality and elevation are much more important for HTs. Power really comes into play when you can use a larger mobile or base station radio that’s able to push 50W, 100W, or even more. That kind of power isn’t an option for handhelds, since it can cause RF burns on the skin on your hand (said to feel like something between a bee sting and a bad sunburn). After all, radio waves are a form of radiation.

Gear Checklist

Once you have a good understanding of the technical and legal aspects of radio communication, it’s time to pick up some hardware. Thankfully, there’s a thriving market for ham radios, and you can easily get an HT with the bare essentials for under $100. Many “starter kits” are available online, but be cautious, since some of these kits include low-quality accessories or items you won’t need.

Handheld radio(s): Harden says that the Baofeng UV-5R (approx. $25) and other derivatives such as the BF-F8HP (approx. $40) are by far the most common HT choices for starters. Keep in mind that out of the box, these radios are able to illegally transmit on many frequencies they’re not certified for. They should only be used for monitoring (listening to nearby transmissions) or transmitting on approved ham bands with the appropriate license. Get a few extra HTs for your friends or family members, if possible.

Upgraded antenna: The standard short antenna that comes with most inexpensive radios is a serious Achilles’ heel. Upgrade options include an extended whip (Harden recommends the Diamond brand), a magnet-mount for the roof of your car, or a roll-up backpacking antenna (Harden recommends the $25 Dual Band Slim Jim antenna available at n9taxlabs.com). You might even want all of the above.

Coaxial cable and adapters: Aside from a whip, connecting to an external antenna will require some coaxial cable. Don’t use the cheap, stiff-type made for TVs. Flexible RG-8 or RG-58 is ideal, but only use as much as you need since excess cable can diminish signal strength. You should also pick up some SMA to UHF connection adapters, or buy a pre-terminated cable with those connectors built-in (n9taxlabs.com offers those, too).

Programming cable: This allows your radio to connect to your computer via USB. Look for one that has “genuine FTDI” in the name, since those are truly plug-and-play. There are many knockoffs on the market that cause driver headaches with some PCs.

Programming software: Good news: You don’t have to pay for this. CHIRP is an excellent open-source piece of software, and it’s free to download for PC, Mac, or Linux at chirp.danplanet.com. It can be used to quickly find important frequencies, program them onto your radio, and duplicate that programming onto other radios you own (this is highly recommended).

Extended battery: Many options are available, including rechargeable packs or units that accept AA alkaline batteries. If you buy a rechargeable pack, get a USB charging cable so you can easily hook it up to a portable power bank, solar panel, or car charger. Never transmit while you’re charging, as it may damage the radio.

Hand mic: This microphone/speaker combo clips onto your shirt, backpack strap, or plate carrier, and allows you to listen and transmit while you’re on the move. Look for one with a 3.5mm output port, so you can connect it to an earbud for privacy or active ear protection for shooting.

Radio pouch: Don’t trust the included belt clip to secure your radio. A purpose-built MOLLE-compatible pouch will protect it and offer easy access when you need it.

Stand-alone scanner (optional): Although most handheld radios can scan for nearby transmissions, a dedicated scanner will be far more efficient at this task. Many law enforcement and government agencies have transitioned away from analog comms, so a digital scanner will have the added advantage of being able to monitor these frequencies, as long as they’re not encrypted.

Your radio might have a belt clip, but carrying it exposed can cause it to get lost or damaged. Instead, protect it inside a MOLLE-compatible pouch.

Prepping Your Radio

Your ham radio can be used two ways: radio-to-radio (simplex) or radio-to-repeater (duplex). The former offers easy, direct communication within a typical range of a few miles. The latter uses a high-power repeater to extend your range by tens or hundreds of miles, and is therefore much more useful for emergencies. Some repeaters are even linked together to bounce your signal across counties or states, and many are supported by generators or other emergency-ready backup power options.

Out of the box, your radio probably won’t be programmed with any useful frequencies. You can always use the scan function to check for nearby transmissions, but that should be your last resort. Ideally, you’ll want to plan ahead and add the ham repeaters in your area to the radio’s memory, either by entering them manually on its keypad (tedious) or by programming them via USB cable and CHIRP (fast and easy). To find repeaters in your area, check RepeaterBook.com or RadioReference.com, or search online for “[your state/city] repeater directory.”

In addition to ham repeaters, Harden recommends programming your radio with NOAA weather advisory frequencies (see weather.gov/nwr/maps) as well as the 22 standard FRS, GMRS, and MURS frequencies. If you’re near the coast, you may also want to program in the marine VHF frequencies, which are used by watercraft. Lastly, you can look up any local police, fire, or EMS frequencies, since listening to these may provide useful information during a disaster. Note that your radio may not be authorized to transmit on any of the frequencies in this paragraph, and you certainly shouldn’t transmit on government frequencies, but it’s perfectly legal to listen and gather information.

A hand mic makes it easier to communicate on the move and to keep your radio safe inside a pouch or pack.

Begin Transmission

Under normal circumstances, there’s a standard etiquette that should be followed when using a ham radio repeater. Rule number one is to listen before you transmit — you’re sharing the airwaves with other people, and it’s rude to cut someone off. Key up (press the transmit button) for a few seconds before you begin speaking, and try to keep messages under a minute whenever possible. You’re always required to identify yourself by your call sign before speaking. To get started, you might say “[call sign] is monitoring” to indicate you’re listening, or say “this is [call sign], can I please get a signal report?” to ask someone to report back if they can hear you clearly.

In an emergency, these niceties will get pushed aside for obvious reasons. You should say “break” if you’re interrupting an ongoing conversation, quickly identify yourself, and then state “this is an emergency” and ask for someone who can help. Once someone responds and is ready to take down your information, provide the relevant details for that person to pass along to rescue personnel. Students in the class were trained to call in emergency information as concisely as possible using a civilian-oriented version of the standard military nine-line MEDEVAC format:

1. Location of pickup site (include decimal GPS coordinates, if possible)
2. Radio frequency and call sign
3. Number of patients by precedence/injury severity
4. Special equipment required (e.g. a stretcher)
5. Number of patients by type (e.g. ambulatory or non-ambulatory)
6. Number and type of wound, injury, or illness
7. Method of marking pickup site
8. Patient description (e.g. teenage girl wearing a bright blue jacket)
9. Terrain description, including key landmarks

End this emergency transmission with a “how copy?” to ask for confirmation or clarification. If at all possible, have a notepad and pen ready to write down important info such as times, frequencies, and call signs. These details will help you get in touch with the same person again in the future, if necessary.

An extended battery pack is a wise purchase for any handheld radio, especially one you plan to use in emergencies. If possible, select one with an onboard port for a USB or car charger, as well as contacts for use with a charging cradle.

Advanced Capabilities

Some ham radio repeaters offer capabilities that can greatly expand your emergency comms capabilities. We’ll briefly address a few of these below.

Autopatch
You can make local phone calls from your handheld radio through an autopatch-enabled repeater, as long as you know the passcode. To start a call, key up, say “this is [call sign] requesting autopatch,” and listen for any objections. Then, key up again and dial the activation code, the 10-digit phone number, and finally the star key (*) before unkeying. If it works, you’ll hear a message saying “autopatch enabled” and the call will begin. After the call, say your call sign again and enter the disconnect code followed by *.

Unfortunately, autopatch has some drawbacks. You’ll need to know that the repeater you’re connecting to is autopatch-enabled, and you’ll need the passcode, which is often only given out to radio club members (that rule may be waived in an emergency). Your call is also limited to 3 minutes, broadcasted to anyone listening on the repeater, and testing has revealed that many phone service providers will send autopatch calls straight to voicemail. Still, if you’re trying to directly contact someone who doesn’t have a radio, this may be your best bet. It can also be used to call 9-1-1 if no one else is active on the repeater.

IRLP/Echolink
The Internet Radio Linking Project (IRLP) is a service that transmits radio calls over the internet from one node to another, much like Skype or any other VoIP service. This is a great way to reach other radio operators who live in a different state or country, far beyond the reach of your local repeater network. See IRLP.net for details and list of nodes in your area.

EchoLink is a functionally similar service, but it comes with the added bonus of stand-alone functionality on PCs and smartphones. That means that even if you don’t have a radio, you can download the app and use it to communicate with those who do.

Remember that unlike typical ham radio repeaters, both of these services are dependent on the internet, so they’re likely to go offline if a major disaster wipes out infrastructure.

AMSAT
Did you know you can directly make a call to outer space from a ham radio? It’s true. In fact, the International Space Station will send you a certificate if you call its onboard repeater. Refer to ariss.org/contact-the-iss.html for details.

Before you dismiss this as useless trivia, you should learn about the Amateur Radio Satellite Organization, also known as AMSAT. These low-orbit amateur satellites act as radio repeaters, and they can be reached using a ham radio and directional antenna. In 2017, a father and son successfully used it to call for rescue when they got stuck in Big Bend National Park, outside the range of cell towers or terrestrial repeaters. An audio recording of this call is available on AMSAT.org.

The catch to AMSAT is that you need a smartphone or computer app to determine the exact orbital path and timing of these satellites, which will provide a narrow window of 15 minutes or less to transmit as one passes overhead. You also need to hope that your transmission is heard by someone else who’s willing to help.

The Baofeng UV-5R was used by most students in the class. This $25 made-in-China HT is far from the best on the market, but is a good starting point for beginners.

Over and Out

Just like any other emergency preparedness skill, your ability to communicate is only as good as your training. You don’t want the first time you test your radio to be at the bottom of a ravine with a broken leg, so get out there and practice with your gear. More importantly, practice in a realistic manner. If you go off-roading frequently in mountainous terrain, see how your radio setup copes with that exact scenario. If you selected a radio for use in an urban natural disaster, test it out next time a storm rolls in. These dry runs will quickly reveal flaws in your plan.

At the conclusion of the class, Harden recommended following the military’s PACE plan format to establish Primary, Alternate, Contingency, and Emergency options for communication. Your primary will almost certainly be your cell phone, whether you’re using it to call, text, email, or reach out on social media. A handheld radio makes an excellent alternate tool, and a satellite phone or personal locator beacon might be a good contingency option. The emergency option is a last resort, such as attempting to find a nearby landline or pay phone (yes, they still exist in a few places).

You may never experience a day when you’re desperately in need of help and your cell phone shows “No Signal.” We sincerely hope that’s the case, but we live our lives by the mantra “hope for the best and plan for the worst.” If things go off the rails, you’d better have several reliable options to stay in touch.

Above: A handheld ham radio makes a valuable addition to any emergency kit or bug-out bag, even if you only use it to check the weather forecast.

Sources
Independence Training
www.independencetraining.com

Terms to Know

Ham – Amateur radio. The term’s origins are debated, but some believe it was originally a derogatory term used by professionals to single out amateur (i.e. “ham-fisted”) operators.
RX – Receive
TX – Transmit
Watts – Used to measure radio transmission power
Repeater – Receives and retransmits a signal to extend its range

Simplex – Transmits and receives on one frequency; used for direct radio-to-radio comms
Duplex – Transmits and receives on two different frequencies with a small offset between; used for radio-to-repeater comms

HT – Handheld radio, aka handheld transceiver or handie-talkie
Mobile – Non-handheld radio configured for use in a vehicle on 12V DC power
Base Station – Non-handheld radio configured for use on a wall power outlet

RF – Radio frequency
Band – Section on the radio frequency spectrum
HF – High frequency, 3 to 30MHz
VHF – Very high frequency, 30 to 300MHz. For amateur radio communications, this typically means 144 to 148MHz, often referred to as “144” (the frequency) or “2-meter” (the wavelength).
UHF – Ultra high frequency, 300MHz to 3GHz. For amateur radio communications, this typically means 420 to 450MHz, often referred to as “440” or “70-centimeter.”
Dual band – Capable of using VHF and UHF

Make a Cheat Sheet

Harden recommends printing out small cards that contain the following critical information. Laminate these cheat sheets and place one with each radio you distribute to your family, friends, or emergency preparedness group members.

Important phone numbers

Regional ham radio repeater frequencies

Local PD/EMS/NOAA weather frequencies

Signal Operating Instructions (SOI): A bare-bones guide on how to use the radio to call for help. Make it simple enough that a child can understand it.

Communication windows: Plan out daily time frames when the user should broadcast or listen for regular communications, so you don’t end up missing a group member’s calls. Avoid exact hour or half-hour marks, since prescheduled events may be occurring on the repeater at those times.

Privacy key: List a few vague terms for specific locations or instructions. For example, you might say “meet at the red building,” which the card indicates is the warehouse on the corner of Washington and 12th. This ensures any eavesdroppers won’t know exactly where you are or what you’re doing unless you want them to.

Lisa Jaster Interview: Delete the Adjective

Written by

“I don’t want to be qualified. I don’t want my accomplishments qualified,” explains a currently multitasking Lisa Jaster, graciously chatting from the car in between her children’s rugby and jiujitsu practices. “I went to the State of the Union address in 2016, and I posted a few things online. I was sick of people telling me, ‘You’re strong for a woman,’ or, ‘Wow, you’re fill-in-the-blank for your age,’ or, ‘You really know your tactics for a female soldier.’ Not only had Lisa’s gender and age suddenly become a focus, but so had her resolve. From those comments came #DeleteTheAdjective and a bit of a chip on her shoulder. “Those chips on our shoulders are what make us succeed in the long run,” Lisa explains.

She’s not wrong. Her drive has led Lisa to delete the “female” adjective in a life and career full of accomplishments. First deployment? Afghanistan after Sept. 11. Second Deployment? Operation Iraqi Freedom. Graduating from the prestigious Army Ranger School? Check. It’s an impressive feat to graduate from Ranger School at all, let alone conquer it at the tender age of 37. “In my Ranger school class, I always volunteered to be point man, or carry extra items. I remember one mission where I was a 240 gunner, which is a roughly 30-pound rig, and I had probably 100 rounds on me. As we’d conquer this mountain trail, our Platoon Sergeant would do a head count at the top. It was just one of those days, and I looked at this young guy and he was counting heads, and I elbowed him in the ribs and I laughed really hard. Later that night in the patrol base he pulls me over to the side and he’s like, ‘Why are you laughing?’ And I said, ‘You don’t get it, I get to be here.’”

Photos by John Jackson

Lisa’s zest for experience has served her well, alongside those chips on her shoulder. Currently, she wears a variety of hats — Army vet, Army Reservist, Marine wife, devout mother, Brazilian jiujitsu trainee and coach, bow hunter, and so forth. There’s never a dull moment, and that’s just the way she likes it. Ever inspirational and moving forward, Lisa took the time in her busy schedule to enlighten us on her career and resolve, and also the virtue of “going all-in” to realize your dreams. “You have two duffel bags, and you shave your head. I mean, you don’t even bring hair to school. If that’s not all-in, I don’t know what is.”

West Point graduation, May 27, 2000, shaking the hands of her company Tactical Officer and NCO.

RECOIL OFFGRID: Do you have a history of military service in your family?
Lisa Jaster: My grandfather was an Army Air Corps navigation instructor during World War II. Due to injury, he never actually ended up going over, but then he became an instructor at the navigation school. My father is a 1968 graduate of West Point and did three tours of Vietnam, received the Silver Star, and four Purple Hearts.

CPET testing for the “Hyperfit Female Study” at the U.S. Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine on December 13, 2019.

What were your motivations to join the Army, and more specifically to undertake the challenge of attending Ranger school?
Lisa Jaster: I actually read a book my grandmother had found and given me called In the Men’s House by Carol Barkalow, and she’s one of the first female graduates from West Point, class of 1980. As a seventh grader, it was like, “Wow, this is neat, this is something a lot of women haven’t done before. This sounds really hard.” I was living in a small town where everybody knew everybody; it was hard to really make a splash unless you were getting in a lot of trouble or you were the quarterback of the football team. So, I read this book and I thought, My God, I want to try that. And my father was a West Point grad, so he had grown up watching The Men of West Point, which was an old TV show.

New Cadet Peplinski at Camp Buckner during the field problem at the finale of “Beast Barracks” in August 1996.

How did you push forward to get accepted and make it in?
Lisa Jaster: We didn’t have the internet back in 1990-’91, so I didn’t know how to get into West Point, but I heard that you needed a Congressional nomination. I just started sending my school pictures to my congressman and my senators. Every year, I would get my school picture and I would write them a letter, and I would send it in. If there were ever any town halls where politicians came to Plymouth, Wisconsin, or anywhere in Sheboygan County, which is where I grew up, I would be sitting there with all the retirees that went to town halls. Finally, between my junior and my senior year of high school, I got to go to a West Point summer camp. And they marched us, and they had real cadets teaching our little classes, and we did intramurals and got to wear the cadet intramural jerseys, and sleep in barracks, and I just thought it was the neatest thing ever. And I thought, Well, if I don’t go this school, I don’t want to go anywhere. And that was it. It was definitely a good fit.

Ranger (Major) Jaster on the lowers rappel wall at Ranger School.

Can you break down your career in the service?
Lisa Jaster: I went to cadet basic training in 1996 and was commissioned in 2000. September 11 happened, and right away at the start of 2002, we went to Afghanistan. After returning from Afghanistan, we went to Iraq for Operation Iraqi Freedom I. I came back, went to grad school, and then went to South Korea for two years, and after that I got out of the Army. I got recruited for a unit after being gone from the military for about three years. Turns out I had been completely processed out, but didn’t know it, so it took me two years to get back in the Army as an Army Reservist, which is my current designation. I had to go through everything, although not basic training, but I had to prove that I really wasn’t as old and decrepit as I felt.

As you were entering, what kind of physical prep did it take to get you to where you at least physically felt like you were ready to go to West Point?
Lisa Jaster: Well, teaching myself to run at least two miles was a challenge. I danced ballet, tap, and jazz, and played soccer in high school. I was also cheer captain, but that didn’t really prepare me a whole lot for the Army fitness test. In high school, maybe junior year, I started trying to run on a regular basis, doing a mile a day, three to four days a week. By my senior year, I was trying to bike everywhere, and when I wasn’t biking I was running or walking. I tried to incorporate physical activity into every aspect of my life, and then I actually took a weight-lifting class in high school, and got taught how to lift, which it turns out is another addiction that I’ve held onto ever since then. I would say between dancing as a kid, having older brothers and stepbrothers as a kid, and then as an adult doing martial arts, specifically Brazilian jiujitsu, that’s enough to get anybody prepared for most situations.

Above: Major Lisa Jaster at the State of the Union in 2016 with most of the Chiefs of Staff. From left to right: General Neller, General Milley, Jaster, General Dunford, Admiral Zukunft, and General Grass, January 12, 2016.

What about the mental stuff? How did you overcome the mental challenges of becoming a Ranger?
Lisa Jaster: I think the mental portion wasn’t as hard for me because I already had a lot of life experiences. I’d been to Afghanistan and Iraq in the beginning, when we didn’t have showers and when we weren’t sure if we were going to get real food resupplies, and when we’d eat MREs for a week before we’d get some more T-rations, before there was MWR and everybody was stealing smokes and shoes. I’ve pulled all-nighters with colicky babies, and I’ve been the wife of somebody who was deployed to a combat zone as a reconnaissance Marine, so I’d already been through all those things. I literally had duffle bags older than some of my classmates. The hardest part about it was that I missed a lot of birthdays and a lot of firsts for my kids because my daughter was really young at the time.

What types of support or criticisms did you get from your colleagues?
Lisa Jaster: By the end, I was the lone female. It was really exciting for me to see how all these young male officers and enlistees were growing and developing, but also how they looked at me differently. Day One, I got “the looks,” but by Day Five, it’s, “Hey Jaster, can you just grab this for me for a minute? Hey Jaster, can you help me out?” And to see how their perception changed from “women shouldn’t be here,” to just becoming part of the team.

Major Lisa Jaster with the 32nd Under Secretary of the Army, Patrick J. Murphy, January 12, 2016.

How else did gender impact your experience?
Lisa Jaster: From day one I got glared at. I mean, having women at the school was changing everything. None of these young, high-speed alpha males wanted to be graduating with the first women. There are a couple reasons: the mindset that “obviously the class must be easier if women can graduate;” and fact that the media showed up for everything. Women being there took away from the accomplishment of our classmates as well. We got all the attention. My graduation day was just as important for the other 88 graduates who stood out there as it was for me, but there were 100 cameras facing me. If I could go back and change anything, that would be one thing I would change. I would figure out a way to reduce the hype about me and focus on everyone’s accomplishment. There were, of course, some guys who came in and were like, “This is awesome, I have a daughter, I can’t believe you’re here, I’m behind you.” But even they had to deal with the fact that there were so many eyes on us that things were going to be scrutinized.

How were you able to gain respect and blend in?
Lisa Jaster: For my class, just under 400 people showed up for Day Zero. Less than 75 percent of us made it to breakfast on Day One, and Day Zero’s just filling out paperwork. RAP (Ranger Assessment Phase) week is full of individual tasks, all the testing, you run everywhere, you’re doing push-ups every five minutes. I mean, you eat and you run, and then you have to do a bunch of push-ups. I will not lie, I may or may not have thrown up a few times. You’re pushing yourself to your max, and at some point in time you look at the person next to you and you say, “I don’t care what you look like, I don’t care what you sound like, but you better hold your own because every time you drop your bag, or every time you don’t do a push-up, all of us get punished.” So, for the students, that gender animosity lasted four days or less, tops. There were eight women who made it through RAP week, so as soon as the “Crazy Eight” got really integrated with their squads and were holding their own, our classmates were like, “OK, physically these girls have it.”

Eventually as classmates, we were able to bond and meld, but the Ranger instructors had to go home to all the media. I had no idea what the public was saying about the Ranger women, but I know those Ranger instructors went home and would get text messages from their buddies, or people who were uninvolved, but had such a strong opinion about gender integration. They had to come back the next morning and be professionals. They had to force themselves to ignore everything. So even though, yes, we did get treated differently, the professionalism of the instructors was phenomenal, because I can’t fathom that amount of pressure.

From your perspective, what are your thoughts on the roles of women in combat and the military in general, and what do you think can be improved?
Lisa Jaster: I don’t have a lot of complaints. I’m 42. So, at 42 my worldview is very different, but I’ve been really blessed that I went to West Point, where as soon as someone wanted to give me a hard time, I could compete against them, because I trained. As far as what needs to change, I think a lot of times it’s just perception. And if you can get acquainted with a Lisa Jaster, or Shaye Haver, or Kristen Griest, or any of these people who break the mold, the perception of what society dictates doesn’t necessarily fit.

Above: Handstand near the top of North Franklin Mountain, outside of Fort Bliss, Texas, with her soldiers upon return from their deployment to Iraq, October 27, 2018.

In fact, one of the things I’m most excited about is the Army has created this gender-neutral, age-neutral PT test. The requirements are different based on your job, or a job category. I never wanted lower standards because I am a woman, because I didn’t think the job required “female standards.” When I came back in the Army I was an old captain, and based on my age, I didn’t have to do as much physically, or be in as good of shape as somebody younger than me, but I was expected to do the same job. I would not be OK with a doctor who was a little “rusty” and less knowledgeable because they were older. If physical fitness is part of my job, and there’s a job requirement for a level of physical fitness, then that’s what I need to be judged by.

Above: Shooting a Lapua .338 while filming the 5.11 Ghost Recon: Breakpoint Challenge at Shoot Las Vegas, Nevada, on September 6, 2019. Photo by WodHawk Photography

In terms of combat, where have you served, and what have been some of those tougher experiences from some of that time?
Lisa Jaster: I have never referred to myself as a combat vet. I can’t imagine referring to myself that way. I do have a combat action badge, but I have not seen anything that’s book worthy, shall we say. There’s a part of me that wishes I had been challenged more than I was, but there’s another part of me that knows that what I bring to the battlefield, or what I bring to the fight, was at a strategic level and not at that individual tactical level. I was an engineer who did minefield clearing operations, area clearance activities. There were a lot of people who were safer because of the activity I did, and what I was doing. I’ve got a master’s in civil engineering, and I was able to use that in all three of my deployments.

“Glamour Shot” taken while filming the 5.11 Ghost Recon: Breakpoint Challenge somewhere in the desert outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, on September 7, 2019. Photo by WodHawk Photography

How long did you serve total, and what was your highest rank that you reached?
Lisa Jaster: I did seven years of active service, and I am at seven and a half, almost eight years, of Reserve service. This last summer I was promoted to Lieutenant Colonel, and in May I will be taking Battalion Command.

Above: A typical day at the ranch during hunting season with the family, fall 2016.

Do you have any other regrets on your service, or anything you wish you had done differently?
Lisa Jaster: I always wanted to go to Sapper school, and never really had the opportunity, so that’s one of those things I wish I could have done. But that’s not a regret, that’s just something I didn’t have the opportunity to do. I made some big mistakes. I’ve said some things. Sometimes there’s things that I’m still mulling over to this day, but I must honestly say that I’ve been glad for every single mistake in the long run. My husband has a great quote, “It’s not about the stressful situation, it’s how you react to it.” And I really look now to see how people react to those situations, rather than what bad situations they’ve put themselves into.

Are there any achievements or milestones that you’re most proud of?
Lisa Jaster: I’ve got a funny story — I don’t know if it’s a proud story. I have gone through my military career, and one of the first things was September 11. I was QRF (Quick Reaction Force) commander at Fort Stewart working directly with the MPs. My engineering unit had three teams that rotated through on a 15-minute, four-hour and eight-hour recall for the base, and I got to lead one of those teams. And then the next thing I did was go to Afghanistan for Operation Enduring Freedom I, and my very first achievement medal was a Bronze Star. So, I am a young lieutenant with a very naked uniform and a Bronze Star, and when I was a major I told my battalion commander that. He saw my DA photo and said, “You don’t even have an Army Achievement Medal (AAM).” And I laughed and said, “All I have are deployments and company command time.” All my Lieutenant time was either in Afghanistan or Iraq, and then my Captain time was in Korea. So, it’s all been big events, and he just laughed at me and I said, “But whatever you do, I don’t want any more awards because getting those award racks built is really expensive.” I ended up beating him on the next Army Physical Fitness Test, and in formation, he gave me an AAM, which is the lowest achievement ribbon. I had to get new award rack, new pictures, new everything, and it was kind of this funny, “How dare you give me this award.” Still, it’s an AAM; it’s an award, and it means something to me.

So fast-forward to now, these days. What are you focused on?
Lisa Jaster: We recently moved so I could start a new job with a new company, but I have a lot more control of my situation, and a lot more impact. The negative is that it’s hard for me to just break away and go train jiujitsu five days a week like I did before we moved. I do CrossFit-style training four to six days a week, Brazilian jiujitsu three days a week, and I also I try to help where my kids train jiujitsu, and maybe help teach a kids’ class once a week. For military skills, it’s important for me to keep up with ruck running, vest runs, normal PT stuff, as well as shooting handguns and long-guns. Myself and my husband are both concealed-carriers, so I do try to still get to the range regularly, but not as much as I would like. I like bow hunting as well, and my next goal is to kill a turkey with my bow.

What would you still like to conquer at this point in your life?
Lisa Jaster: I would love to compete in Brazilian jiujitsu. Part of the difficulty of that is the amount of 42-year-old, 140-pound women who want to compete in Brazilian jiujitsu is pretty small, so it’s hard to find people to get matched up with in tournaments. A lot of times I show up and there’s nobody in my bracket, and it’s either I fight the 22-year-olds, or I fight the 160 pounders. Of course, I’m more than willing to do both when I have the opportunity. It’s a discipline where being smart matters; it isn’t just youth, it’s also skill and endurance.

Jaster family at the Houston National Cemetery, Memorial Day 2017, placing flags near the graves of veterans with other members of Team Red, White, and Blue.

What do you think about the plight of veterans suffering from PTSD?
Lisa Jaster: I would like to see our medical system get a little less fearful of natural solutions. Most of the prescription drugs have severe side effects and limit a person’s capabilities, such as operating heavy equipment — for my engineer soldiers, that takes away many of the jobs they are best suited for. Engineers are definitely not the only ones. We’ve lost quite a few of the guys I deployed with in early 2002-’03 due to unseen injuries. Well, what can you expect if the medical solution to PTSD removes so many civilian work opportunities? These are not the type of people who want to collect a welfare check and pity from others. So, many self-medicate, abuse alcohol, or try to “suck it up.” If there are non-addictive, natural alternatives to antidepressants which can help veterans and others suffering, then there is a chance that PTSD could end up with a decreased mortality rate.

You’ve certainly had an interesting life. What’s the best part about being such a diversely accomplished woman?
Lisa Jaster: Being in the military has exposed me to so much more of the world than I ever knew existed. Getting a behind-the-scenes view into the psyche of so many hard-charging soldiers, such as at Ranger School, showed me that these guys still love their kids, want to be impressive to their loved ones, and need a support system like everyone else. Being a soldier, wife, mom, and manager allows me to see the vast complications of every situation and gives me empathy. I am blessed to live outside my comfort zone and constantly surprise people who think they know me because of an adjective.

Lisa Jaster’s EDC

Pistol: SIG Sauer P365
Holster: Custom Blacksmith Tactical IWB Flex Rig
Knife: Gerber Paraframe
TQ: Army issue tourniquet in a Fieldcraft Survival tourniquet holster
IFAK: Adventure Medical Kit Trauma Pak
Flashlight: SureFire E2E Executive Elite

Lisa Jaster

Hometown: Plymouth, WI, and now New Braunfels, TX

Age: 42

Education: MS in civil engineering from Missouri University of Science and Technology; BS in civil engineering from the United States Military Academy at West Point

Family status: Married to a Marine Reserve Colonel with two kids (son, 11; daughter, 8)

Military accolades: Airborne, Air Assault, Ranger, a few deployments, and a couple of ribbons

Favorite movie: Tie between Hitch and Pitch Black

De Niro or Pacino? Gotta go with De Niro

Top 5 recommended books:
Ashley’s War by Gayle Tzemach Lemmon

Good to Great by Jim Collins

Outliers by Malcolm Gladwell

The Mission, The Men, and Me by Pete Blaber

Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand

Childhood idol: Linda Hamilton circa Terminator 2. She was a badass and when I read how she prepped for the movie, I wanted to be that focused on my goals.

Daily motivation: The fear of only being able to look back at who I once was versus striving toward who I could be

Favorite band: Metallica “Fade to Black” and earlier

Website: Facebook (Lisa Jaster – Delete the Adjective) and Instagram (@lisaajaster)

What If Your Family is the Victim of a Mountain Lion Attack?

Written by

Illustrations by Robert Bruner
It’s a beautiful summer day, so you decide to go for a family hike/picnic in the nearby Cleveland National Forest with your spouse and two children (ages 10 and 7). You’ve hiked this area before and are relatively familiar with the various hiking paths that lead to scenic areas with natural hot springs, where you plan to stop for a picnic. The hike out and back with a stop for lunch should take about four hours total. You pack plenty of water, an insulated bag full of food, and comfortable clothing before heading out to a trailhead off Ortega Highway between San Juan Capistrano and Lake Elsinore, California. The last thing on your mind is being the victim of a mountain lion attack.

This area of the Cleveland National Forest is vast, and although you have a cell phone, reception is spotty in many areas, U.S. Forest Service and park ranger presence is limited, and you’re at least a 45-minute drive from any hospitals. You’re also aware there have been recent mountain lion attacks in the area, so you’re conscious of the location of nearby Forest Service fire stations in case something should happen and you end up in desperate need of medical attention.

The Scenario

Situation type
Mountain lion attack

Your Crew
You and your family

Location
Southern California/Cleveland National Forest

Season
Summer

Weather
Warm; high 97 degrees F, low 63 degrees F

The Setup: It’s early afternoon when you arrive at your destination. You decide to hike through a known, but uncommonly traveled trail that goes to the San Juan Hot Springs, a relatively secluded area. The hike will take you inland by a few miles, but you feel the beauty of the destination is worth the extra effort. After walking for about half an hour, you stop to take a breather and rest your feet.

The Complication: As you gaze around and estimate how much farther you have to travel, suddenly you hear a blood-curdling shriek from your youngest child who had been standing a short distance away. As you turn in that direction, you see a large mountain lion walking off into the brush carrying your child by the neck in its jaws. It climbs an oak tree about 150 yards from where you are and settles on a branch about 7 feet off the ground with your child gasping for air.

In a panic, you reach for your phone to find that it says, “No service.” Calling for help from this location isn’t an option. What do you do? Should one person run for help while the other attempts to free your child? Will attempting to confront the animal and free your child risk greater trauma or possibly death, making a bad situation worse? If you had a weapon, would it be too risky to use it? What steps can you take to protect your child and escape?

Game Warden John Nores’ Approach

Having spent the first three of my 28-year California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) game warden career patrolling this region within the Cleveland National Forest, I’m intimately familiar with mountain lion presence and encounters in western Riverside County and throughout the rest of California. The CDFW reports there are between 4,000 and 6,000 mountain lions residing in California and have verified 17 mountain lion attacks on humans between 1986 and February 2020.

An additional four fatal mountain lion attacks occurred around the turn of the previous century. Of the modern era’s 17 attacks, 3 were fatal, and 8 victims were children under the age of 11. While these statistics are alarming, the relatively low number of mountain lio attacks over this 34-year period tells us the likelihood of getting attacked by a mountain lion is extremely low, especially given the millions of outdoor recreationalists adventuring throughout mountain lion habitat on a daily basis throughout the Golden State.

Preparation

Adequate first-aid supplies (in both your pack and vehicle) for any outdoor contingency are critical, especially when going into an area known for lion attacks. Trauma gear for gunshots, broken bones, and deep puncture wounds that generate heavy arterial bleeding are a must. The following essential trauma items are always in my pack and vehicle for redundancy to cover any trauma medicine contingency: hemostatic gauze (QuikClot/Celox) pack, at least one Israeli bandage, two C.A.T. tourniquets, 4×4 gauze bandages, and a roll of first-aid adhesive tape. Having these supplies on hand is critical, as is the knowledge to deploy them efficiently and correctly should the need arise. Well before this hike, I’ve trained the entire family how to use these tools properly and refreshed them again on these skills since we’re going into a known mountain lion habitat.

Other essential items in our vehicle are plenty of water; electrolytes and two water purification devices; an emergency space blanket; food (at least two days’ worth in the event of an unplanned overnight stay in the backcountry); a fire-starting tool; a sharp multipurpose knife and sharpener; a compact semi-auto pistol with integrated white light and laser combination (chambered in a caliber adequate to stop a wild animal attack with controlled expansion hollow point bullets); an extra pistol magazine; a handheld GPS device with onX Hunt topographical map program installed; a flashlight/headlamp; extra lithium batteries for all the devices carried; sunscreen; a wide brim “boonie” style hat; light jackets; and other layering clothing. I also carry an Iridium satellite phone in my pack for remote backcountry areas without cell coverage.

Food storage in both our vehicle and especially in our backpacks while in the field is of concern in this region not only for mountain lions, but other wild animal species too. Breaking food items down into quart or gallon Ziploc bags significantly dampens, if not eliminates, fresh food smells on the trail. Remember most wild animals’ sense of smell is exponentially better than humans, so eliminating this preventable animal attractant where possible is essential.

Because of recent lion attacks in the region, I’ve analyzed the topographical maps for the area we’re exploring and chose a route on a marked, well-defined, and open trail with good 360-degree visibility surrounding it. While mountain lions can attack anywhere, they’re more comfortable and likely to do so in densely wooded areas where they can stalk close to their prey undetected. We’ll stick to more wide-open trails on this hike and not make it easy for them to attack. In the event of an attack, we’ve also identified at least two (primary and secondary) evacuation routes back to our vehicle utilizing open, high-visibility trails where possible.

Since I prefer to carry at least my pistol in austere backcountry areas, our family needs to be familiar with the firearm possession laws in the Cleveland National Forest. Firearms are generally allowed to be possessed on National Forest lands throughout the U.S. only during legal hunting seasons. The exception to this restriction is that those with a concealed carry weapon (CCW) permit may carry their firearm on U.S. Forest Service lands year-round. This hike is happening during a peak summer month when hunting seasons are closed, but fortunately I’m able to carry my pistol under the provisions of my CCW permit. Remember that rules may vary throughout the nation, so be sure to check firearms carry regulations in the area you intend on exploring.

Given confirmed mountain lion presence and reported attacks in our chosen hiking area, we must review measures to prevent an attack from happening in the first place as well as the most effective response if an attack occurs. Prevention starts with the following guidelines: Hike in numbers, as attacks are less likely in a group. Don’t let small children wander off the trail unattended. Keep your kids in the middle or front of your group to prevent a cougar ambush from the rear. Avoid areas with freshly killed animals, as cougars often stash their kills to eat later and will defend their meal. Leave the area immediately if you come across cougar kittens — lions will defend their young. Small dogs can attract or invite cougar attacks, so unless you have a large, situationally aware K9 with extensive backcountry experience, it’s best to leave them at home.

If encountering a mountain lion, don’t run away. Running may trigger an attack. Never turn your back to a lion; maintain constant eye contact with the cougar while making loud noises, yelling, and waving your arms as you deliberately gain distance from the animal.

If the encounter turns into an attack, don’t play dead. Fight back using your hands, legs, and anything else that can be used as a weapon. If you carry a firearm and have the proper ammunition, training, experience, and mindset to effectively neutralize an attacking lion, a gun can be a very effective tool to stop an attack. Before using a firearm, however, you must make sure the situation allows for a safe shot (position of animal, safe backstop, crossfire with other people, etc.) before pressing the trigger. Because California mountain lions are protected mammals on both public and private property and can only be dispatched for public safety reasons (verified attack or potential attack) and/or in depredation cases (livestock, pet loss, etc.), be prepared for the investigation that’ll ensue if you have to dispatch an attacking lion with your firearm.

While using pepper spray may stop an attack some of the time, I’ve seen and heard of numerous cases where it didn’t. Given this, be ready to use any available defensive weapons like rocks, sticks, knives, and other instruments. Several cougar attacks have been thwarted by striking the animal with improvised weapons including bicycle tire pumps, soda cans, water bottles, and even an entire mountain bike in one notable case. Bottom line, don’t give up. Exhaust every defensive tool within reach to survive the attack.

On Site

Identifying mountain lion and other animal tracks and scat along the trail is also critical. These indicators verify if a threat exists and tell us not only how recently, but also how frequently that threat is in our region.

Realizing medical assistance will be a long time in coming, trauma gear is readily accessible in my pack, and I have emergency response numbers (USFS, Cal-Fire, and sheriff’s 911 dispatch) preprogrammed in our Iridium satellite phone. For added family protection, I’m first on the trail with my handgun holstered and quickly accessible. Behind me is our 7-year-old daughter, followed by our 10-year-old son with my spouse at the back of the line, also armed with a handgun.

The safest hiking method for preventing a mountain lion attack, this formation also gives us the largest and most deterring presence possible. If we unfortunately come across a lion or other predator along the trail, my family will stay behind me while I cover the animal’s approach with my pistol. We’ll stay close together, moving around and away from the threat as a unit while waving our arms and yelling at the lion to make the largest and most intimidating presence possible as we gain distance away from the stalking predator.

Crisis

When our youngest child is attacked, dragged off, and pinned between a lion’s jaws in the tree above us, we respond quickly and deliberately. With severe puncture wounds to our child’s neck, the lion stationary in a tree above us, no cell coverage, and help at least an hour away, it’s up to us to save our family.

Keeping our team together and behind me in a safe cover position, my spouse activates the satellite phone to call for help while watching our back for other predators in the area. I move into position for a broadside shot, ensuring our child isn’t in the line of fire before engaging the lion with enough shots to the cat’s vital zone to stop the threat and force the release of our child. Cougars are thin-skinned animals and having dispatched several public safety/depredation mountain lions throughout my career with my duty pistol, I see these shots neutralize the cat effectively as it drops from the tree.

With the lion and our child on the ground, I ensure the cat is neutralized and begin assessing wounds for severity before starting treatment immediately on my child. She’s conscious, yelling in pain, and bleeding from the back of the neck, but fortunately the puncture marks indicate no damage to the spinal cord or carotid artery. I stop the bleeding using a QuikClot gauze pack, 4×4 gauze pads, and a compression wrap, while maintaining spinal precautions. Given the chance of unseen spinal damage or concussion, hiking out to safety isn’t an option. We’ll need a helicopter evacuation. As I maintain trauma care, airway, shock, and concussion protocol monitoring with our 11-year-old’s assistance, my spouse is on the sat phone with a 911 dispatch center giving our exact location through GPS coordinates. She conveys identifiable landmarks around us for an inbound helicopter crew to easily spot. She requests a helicopter that has a medic, hoist, and Stokes litter system aboard to evacuate a non-ambulatory victim quickly — capabilities very few air ships have for these types of emergencies. Following the call, my spouse photographs the scene with her cell phone camera. I monitor our child while maintaining scene security, keeping our family far enough away from the lion carcass and surrounding area to avoid inner perimeter contamination for the pending wildlife attack investigation.

Survival Advocate Rogue’s Approach

With two small children, the possibility of an animal attack, especially a mountain lion attack, is always on our minds whenever we head out for an adventure. We often hike in mountain lion country, so while we want to have fun on our hike, we’re also on high alert. With more and more people getting outdoors and encroaching on nature’s territory, predators are taking more chances.

Preparation

Whenever we head out for a hike, we pack the essentials: snacks, water, a small survival kit, a first-aid kit, sunscreen, and bug spray. Both my husband and I each conceal-carry our respective firearms; we also each have a folding knife. In instances where we aren’t allowed to carry firearms (like many places in California), we carry bear spray and an air horn, in addition to our knives. Bear spray has been known to deter mountain lions and bears. An air horn has also been known to spook predators. In addition, our Jeep is stocked with a large first-aid kit, food, water, and a ham radio.

Before heading out, I always do some research on the area we’re about to explore, which would include researching the local animals. Knowing what’s out there will allow me to know what I’m looking for as far as tracks, scat, etc. If I’m unfamiliar with what tracks or scat an animal makes, I’ll search for that at the same time. I’ll even download pictures onto my phone so I can compare while out in the wild.

When doing research, I also look up self-defense laws, specifically when it comes to animal and mountain lion attacks. In California, the law allows you to defend yourself against a wild animal attack if there’s danger of an immediate attack.

On Site

Whether we’re in mountain lion country or not, we always tell our children to stay close to us and in turn, we stay close to them. In general, we try to keep our kids in between us, so we always have eyes on them, as well as the surrounding area. Plus, big cats like to come from behind, so we wouldn’t want our children to bring up the rear. Of course, because they’re children, oftentimes we have to continually remind them and/or guide them back between us as we walk.

If we were to spot a mountain lion early, we’d be as loud as possible — scream, stomp feet, jump up and down, wave arms, and so on. We’d stand our ground and show our dominance. Whatever you do, don’t run!

Crisis

Despite our best efforts, there may be times when we stop to rest or inspect a specific area, momentarily letting our guard down. If this were to happen and a mountain lion took the opportunity to attack one of my children, taking action immediately is critical. One parent would remain behind with the other child and attempt to call for help, while the other would move in to rescue the child who’s being dragged away by the mountain lion. One parent leaving wouldn’t seem prudent in this instance, as the other parent may need assistance with the animal or the wounded child.

Whether or not I knew my child was conscious and aware, I would yell to them to scratch, kick, punch, claw, do whatever they could to hit, hit, and hit some more. Of course, they’re afraid and hurt, so they might be unable to do anything at all. However, fighting back is generally key to breaking free from a mountain lion attack.

Reaching for my phone wouldn’t be my first priority — my priority is to get my child free and rush them to safety. My adrenaline would be pumping, I’d be scared, angry, and I’d put all that energy into stomping, screaming, being as loud as possible, throwing sticks, throwing my gear, throwing rocks, throwing anything I could get my hands on. I would also use my air horn to scare the animal away. If none of that worked, I’d take the bear spray out and begin to spray it as close to the animal’s face as possible. There may be residual bear spray that’d affect my child, but if I don’t get my child out of the clutches of the mountain lion, then a little bear spray in the face is the least of our worries.

If nothing worked, I’d attempt to climb the tree to scare off or attack the animal. If I couldn’t climb the tree, I’d call my husband over to help boost me up to the mountain lion’s level and begin an aggressive attack.

Once the mountain lion releases my child, we’d break out the gauze from our first-aid kit and begin to apply pressure. At the same time, we’d be rushing back to the parking lot/headquarters, all while one of us would continue to attempt to call for help. Our adrenaline would still be pumping so we’d be moving fairly quickly.

If service wasn’t available as we continued back to our Jeep, or we simply couldn’t reach anyone, as soon as we got to our Jeep, we’d call for help via our ham radio. Even as we reached out via ham, we’d be driving to the nearest facility that could provide medical attention, which may be a ranger’s station, hospital, or clinic of any kind. If at any point we were able to reach someone via radio and they couldn’t reach us, we’d ask where the nearest facility is to our location so they could direct us. In this situation, time isn’t our friend, and we need to find help immediately while continuing to apply pressure to the wound and treating it to the best of our medical knowledge.

Hiking with the family is a lot of fun, but there are also a lot of dangers that we need to be prepared for. Animal attacks may sound unlikely and are statistically rare — some sources say around 160 annually throughout the United States, but those 160 people probably never expected to be attacked, either. With proper research and preparation, anyone can be prepared for the worst-case scenario.

Conclusion

People forget that the wilderness is just that, an untamed area of our world where survival of the fittest is the norm, and the natural order of things is for larger animals to prey on smaller ones. As we push further and further into rural areas, the hunt for food can often turn to human victims. No one ever thinks it’s their turn, but assume that the hills have eyes and prepare accordingly for animals that have a level of stealth and strength honed by millennia of evolution.

Success and survival in this case, or in any other animal or mountain lion attack scenario starts with comprehensive preparation before going afield. The careful selection of the right gear for the adventure is also critical, and being ready to take appropriate and decisive action when the unthinkable happens is paramount to surviving any animal attack. Know the potential dangers in the outdoor environment you plan to explore, be prepared, never take Mother Nature for granted, and enjoy the journey.

Meet Our Panel

Morgan “Rogue”

Morgan “Rogue” resides in Texas with her husband, daughter, and two dogs, with their second daughter on the way. Her family is always venturing into the wilderness and challenging themselves, as well as others, to love the outdoors. Through Rogue Preparedness, she works toward making the world a more prepared place, where people can feel confident in knowing that they possess the skills, knowledge, and items to get them through any emergency or disaster. She educates and entertains on her YouTube channel, website, and social media platforms, as well as in-person events held in Texas. You can find Morgan at roguepreparedness.com

Lt. John Nores

Lt. John Nores (ret.) is a worldwide conservationist who has investigated environmental and wildlife crimes for 28 years as a California game warden and was awarded the Governor’s Medal of Valor for lifesaving and leadership efforts in 2008. Nores codeveloped and led the California Dept. of Fish and Wildlife’s Marijuana Enforcement Team (MET) and Delta Team (the nation’s first wilderness special ops unit and sniper element) aimed at combatting the marijuana cartel’s decimation of our nation’s wildlife, wildlands, and waterways. His latest book, Hidden War: How Special Operations Game Wardens are Reclaiming America’s Wildlands from the Drug Cartels highlights the team’s first six years of operations (2013 to 2018). Nores hosts RecoilTV’s Thin Green Line film series, cohosts the Thin Green Line and Warden’s Watch podcasts, and has been featured on several other podcasts.

Your Guide to Tips and Tools for Flat Tire Repair

Written by

Several years ago, my fellow rescue technicians and I conducted a search-and-rescue operation. We were in the middle of transporting our subject out of the woods when we realized that our transport UTV was getting a flat tire and needed some tire repair. The escort ATVs were unable to safely evacuate the subject, so we needed to come up with a quick solution to get our subject out of the woods and to a proper ambulance. Thankfully, we had several viable solutions available to us, and we were able to get to safety with only minor delay. What did we do? More importantly, if you find yourself in an austere environment or off-the-grid scenario, what are your options and what can you learn from our event?

First, let’s talk about changing a tire. Some folks out there might not have ever needed to change a flat tire by themselves. While it’s not fun to do when you’re on-road, it’s even less fun when you’re off-road. If you don’t know how to change a tire, learn. Please. It’s relatively easy to do and can save you a disproportionate amount of heartache if you find yourself in this situation. If you do already know how, you’d be remiss not to teach your spouse, children, and friends.

Your preparations need to start by making sure you have all the equipment needed to change a tire and the knowledge of how to do it safely. Naturally, having a spare tire helps a lot. Knowing where the spare tire is located and how to access it is a must. Spare tires may be located inside a vehicle, perhaps under the floor of an SUV, or covered by the plastic trim on the side. It could also be located in the trunk of a car or outside the vehicle, suspended underneath with a cable that you’ll need to crank down with a tool that should be included in the tire-changing kit that came with the vehicle. If your vehicle is like the latter, you’ll need to know the proper procedure to lower that spare. It’s not always obvious, and you should refer to the owner’s manual for instructions. Also, make sure to periodically check the tire pressure of your spare and top it off if it’s low. Note that some vehicles don’t come with a spare tire at all, instead relying on special run-flat tires or a tire repair kit.

You’ll need an appropriate jack to lift the car and a lug wrench that’s sized for your lug nuts. Some people don’t know where their spare tire is, don’t know how to access their spare tire, don’t have a jack, and don’t have a lug wrench sized to fit their vehicle. This is a recipe for disaster.

The basic steps to changing a tire are as follows: Choose a safe location with level ground. Turn on your hazard lights, then set the parking brake and block the tires so the vehicle can’t accidentally roll away while you’re jacking it up. Before you lift the car, use the lug wrench to begin loosening all of the lug nuts; it’s much easier to do this when the wheel is on the ground and can’t move. Just get them started; don’t remove them completely. Place your jack at the specified jack point for your car and raise the car. Remove the lug nuts, and then swap the spare tire for the flat. Read your owner’s manual for specifics; for example, some vehicles (like certain German cars) have lug bolts instead of lug nuts. If you’ve never changed a tire, it’s helpful to get hands-on instruction.

The natural next question becomes: What are your options if you can’t change the tire?

Above: A scissor jack, shown at left, is likely what you'll find provided by your car's manufacturer in the trunk. While working the crank is no fun and it also has a small base, these jacks are purely mechanical, so they're a reliable choice for emergency use. Hydraulic bottle jacks are compact and strong. However, their small bases compromise on stability and they might be too tall for low vehicles.

Compressed Air

The first possibility is to refill your flat tire with air. There are many inexpensive air compressors on the market that you can plug into your 12-volt power source to reinflate your tire. There are also compressed air canisters you can use, ranging from tiny CO2 cartridges that can fill a smaller tire (or use several for larger tires) to larger portable compressed air tanks that could fill large tires. In a worst-case scenario, you could use a manual pump, like a bicycle pump, to inflate the tire. If the leak is slow enough, this could buy you time to get to safety. If the tire damage is more extensive, simply refilling a tire with air might not be possible and you’ll need to try a different method.

Above: There are many options to refill a tire, from compressed air to electric pumps to good old-fashioned elbow grease.

Plugs

There are several options to plug a damaged tire. The U.S. Tire Manufacturers Association (USTMA) outlines criteria for fixing a flat. Their Product Service Bulletin titled “Puncture Repair Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires,” which includes a wall chart, shows the industry recommended puncture repair procedure. It basically advises that you can only repair holes up to ¼-inch diameter in the tread area of a tire (not the edge of the tread or sidewall). This standard should be adhered to under all normal circumstances. But you might not be in normal circumstances — you might be in an off-road, off-grid, life-and-death situation!

The best type of flat tire repair is a pull-through plug with an interior patch. These are installed from inside the tire and are the type of repairs performed at service stations. It involves reaming out the hole, putting a plug into the hole, using a vulcanizing compound (glue), and then putting a patch on the plug from the inside of the tire.

A simple external tire plug can be installed by the average person, with the tire still on the rim. First, through visual and physical inspection, locate where the tire is damaged. Once located, remove any debris, such as a screw or nail. Then, insert a probe tool, which is a rough file/rasp-type rod, into the hole that caused the flat to clean it out. Next, thread a repair plug onto the plug tool, which looks like a giant sewing needle. Spread a generous amount of rubber cement onto the plug and push the plug straight down into the hole, leaving about ½ to ¼ inch of the plug sticking out of the hole. Then, twist the plug tool and pull it out, leaving the plug in the hole. Allow the cement a few minutes to dry, and if the damage isn’t too severe, the hole should be plugged. This type of repair has been known to hold up for many years.

While it’s generally not recommended, if the tire is still leaking from that hole, you can try a second, third, or fourth plug. Additionally, the USTMA advises never to put a plug into a sidewall, and I wouldn’t advise it either — but I’ve seen it done on numerous ATV, UTV, tractor, and other off-road tires in an emergency. If you should ever need to do such a thing, drive no faster than a walking pace and only as far as you need to reach a place where a proper tire change can be done. Don’t drive at roadway speeds as there’s great risk of a catastrophic blowout with a sidewall repair.

There are plenty of generic tire plugs available, but plugs from Stop & Go International are a much better option. While they follow the same plug-the-hole concept as the others, these plugs offer significant advantages. First, they’re available in two diameters (5/16 and 7/16 inch), the larger of which is much bigger than a standard tire plug. Second, they’re contoured in a mushroom shape, the head of which forms a better seal inside the tire versus a standard plug. Third, to achieve a tight fit, they require some mechanical advantage via a screw-in applicator or a springloaded “gun” applicator.

Above: The most robust repair method is to install a plug and patch from the inside. This will need to be done at a shop that can remove the tire from the wheel.

Chemical Sealants

Some of you might say, “Why go through all that trouble; why don’t you just carry a can of Fix-a-Flat?” Well, that’s certainly an option, but historically one of the worst. Does it work? Sometimes. But before you put it to use, understand its downsides. In 2016, the formulation was changed, but according to the Safety Data Sheet dated 10/15/2000, the chemical mix of the previous version of Fix-a-Flat was corrosive. If you've had a can or two of this stuff sitting in your vehicle or garage for a while, it might be the older formula that can cause damage to your tire, and if left for an extended period of time, potentially corrode the wheel, too. And if you happen to have a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS), which was mandated for vehicles in the United States after fall 2007, there’s a good chance you’ll cause damage to this component as well. Fix-a-Flat is a very temporary fix and should be removed from the inside of your tire as soon as possible. It’ll require cleaning out the inside of the tire, and some shops will charge you extra. Even with the new formulation, Fix-a-Flat instructions specify you have three days or 100 miles to get your tire professionally repaired.

Above: Slime's tire sealant, which you inject into your tire to seal a puncture, along with more traditional repair kits.

The chemical ingredients of the older Fix-a-Flat formula are tetrafluoroethane, heavy aromatic solvent naptha, amorphous polyolefin, aromatic resin, inert filler, and a trade secret emulsifier. The current chemical ingredients are Tetrafluoro-1-propene, glycerol, and cellulose. It’s a good idea to know which version you have.

You may have also heard of Slime tire sealant, a thick green goo that you can inject inside your tire to repair small holes or prevent the tire from going flat in the first place. The manufacturer claims that their product is TPMS-safe, contains rust inhibitors to protect your rim, and is effective for up to two years. From personal experience, this stuff works very well, and I know people who have left Slime in their tires for many years. To use it, you’ll need to pull the core out of your valve stem using a special tool and inject the sealant inside your tire. It’s a simple process.

The chemical ingredients of Slime are glycerol, attapulgite (binder), cellulose, and quartz.

TireJect tire sealant is similar to Slime; it’s a liquid that you inject into your tire through the valve stem and is said to be effective for two years. However, it’s a much thinner liquid and comes in two different versions. The automotive sealant will seal bead leaks and tread punctures up to ¼ inch, while remaining safe for tires, rims, and TPMS sensors. The off-road tire sealant will seal leaks up to 3/8 inch, including the sidewall and dry rot. This sealant is made with liquid rubber, active sealing particles, and aramid (Kevlar) fiber, but it’s not TPMS friendly. I tried this product on the dry-rotted tires of my lawn aerator, which would no longer hold air for more than a day or two. Thirty days after using TireJect, the dry-rotted tires are still holding air. Impressive.

The chemical ingredients of TireJect are propylene glycol and natural rubber latex.

While doing research, I found another product, FlatOut Multi Seal. I haven’t used it yet, but feel it deserves mention. Like Slime and TireJect, this liquid is injected into your tire through the valve stem. The manufacturer claims their sealant is good for 10 years but is formulated for off-road vehicles only, as it can damage TPMS sensors. The Multi Seal Pro HD 2500 will plug holes up to ¾ inch, while the Multi Seal Armor 3500 will plug holes all the way up to a whopping 1¼ inches — that’s bullet hole territory. They have a video on their website showing them driving a 5/8-inch steel rod into a tire and FlatOut Multi Seal plugging the hole in seconds.

The chemical ingredients of FlatOut Multi Seal are approximately 50-percent propylene glycol with the remaining proprietary components not at reportable concentrations.

Above: You can use an external tire plug kit to repair a tire without removing it from the wheel. It involves removing the offending object, cleaning up the hole, then inserting a repair plug and applying cement. It's wise to have a patch applied on the inside surface of the tire afterward to reduce the risk of leaks.

Other Extreme Repairs

A friend was out on an ATV camping trip when he put a gash into the tire. It was too big to be repaired with conventional means, and he hadn’t brought a spare tire with him. Rather than attempting to drive the trail on a flat tire or hiking many miles out of the woods, he sewed the gash closed. Yes, you read that correctly. Using a heavy tarp repair needle and thread, he put a bunch of stitches into the gash to hold it closed, applied a patch inside the tire, and then coated it liberally, inside and out, with vulcanizing cement. It held, and he was able to drive out.

In some third-world countries, they still repair flats with a torch and bits of rubber that they melt back into the tire. It takes a skilled hand to do it well, but tons of tires have surely been repaired this way. There's also the old-school trick of re-seating a completely deflated tire by spraying it with a flammable aerosol such as starter fluid, then carefully igniting it. The resulting fireball can pop the tire bead back around the wheel, but we wouldn't recommend trying this dangerous technique at home.

Damage to a tire's sidewall is usually catastrophic. Plugging a hole in the sidewall isn't advisable, but can be done as a temporary measure in emergencies.

Conclusion

At the beginning of this article I mentioned having a flat tire on a mission, and that we had several options available to us to repair the flat in that situation. We could’ve patched the tire with a plug or worm, but it would’ve taken a little while to locate the exact cause of the leak and make the repair. We could’ve changed the tire, except we didn’t carry a spare tire on board any of our UTVs.

We could’ve dismounted the tire and put a new inner tube into the existing tire, but that would’ve required finding a lug wrench, jacking up the vehicle, and then replacing the tube. Well, we did have a spare inner tube, but we realized we didn’t have the lug wrench with us, and we didn’t have a jack, so this type of repair would take some improvising and a fair amount of time. We might’ve been able to take a good tire/rim from one of the ATVs and mount it on the UTV temporarily, but, again, we didn’t have the lug wrench or jack with us.

Above: High-lift jacks are particularly useful off-road with high-clearance vehicles. They have a wide range of articulation, and in addition to lifting they can push, pull, winch, and clamp.

In the end, we first set in motion our Plan B. We sent two of the four vehicles we had to retrieve the spare tire, jack, and lug wrench from our staging point along the paved road. As our Plan A, we went with the fastest and easiest short-term fix — we used the small air compressor we had on hand to add air to the tire. We had to fill it several times along the way, but it gave us several minutes of drive time between fillings. This was enough to get our subject to the ambulance waiting along the paved road. Admittedly, the process would’ve gone a lot faster if we’d had a couple more tools with us. But what we did have — a layered mission support plan and knowledge of multiple alternatives — allowed us to find a solution that worked for us in the moment. Knowledge is power, and being knowledgeable about what tools are available to repair damaged tires can go a long way to keep you rolling down whatever roads you choose to travel.

Iconic Survival Knives – Part Two: Ka-Bar Knife History

Written by

Certain knives we associate with cultures, such as the Filipino balisong or the Japanese tanto; other knives we associate with professions, like a surgeon’s scalpel or a butcher’s knife. There’s one knife we associate with the U.S. Marine Corps, a branch of the military where culture and profession intersect, and that knife is the Ka-Bar. If a Marine is on active duty, there’s a good chance he has one lashed to his kit or on his belt. If a Marine is no longer in service, he almost certainly has at least one squirreled away somewhere.

Although the Marines aren’t the only branch of the U.S. military to use this knife, people associate the Ka-Bar with the Marine Corps, and when people are looking for a good survival-type knife, it’s their Marine friends they usually look to for endorsement.

Origin of the Name

As with anything that people don’t understand completely, there are myths surrounding the Ka-Bar knife. One of the earliest we heard was that it was military shorthand for a bayonet used for the Browning Automatic Rifle (BAR). That old sea story holds that it stood for “Knife Attachment, Browning Automatic Rifle,” hence KA-BAR. Despite there being no way to directly attach a Ka-Bar knife to a BAR, this legend pops up from time to time and people believe it.

The KA-BAR trademark can be traced back to one of the first manufacturers of the Ka-Bar: Union Cutlery. According to company records, in 1923, the company received a letter purportedly from a fur trapper who had used a Union Cutlery knife to kill a wounded bear that attacked the trapper.

Apparently, poor handwriting combined with poorer spelling made the letter barely legible. The phrase “K a Bar” could be read, as fragments of the phrase “kill a bear.” Someone higher up on the chain of command liked it and decided that Union Cutlery should use Ka-Bar as its trademark. It soon began appearing as a stamp on all the company’s knives.

Even 80 years after their first issue, some Ka-Bar knives are still getting the job done in the field.

Enter the USMC

After the outbreak of World War II, the Marine Corps found itself in need of a better knife. Knives throughout the Corps reflected knuckle-guard-equipped trench daggers from World War I, the U.S. Navy Mark 1 utility knife, various machetes, and the Raider stiletto.

Two Marine officers, Colonel John M. Davis and Major Howard E. America, were tasked with finding a modern and effective fighting knife and asked several military knife and tool manufacturers to submit designs for the war effort.

The officers eliminated quite a few designs and decided the U.S. Navy Mark 1 utility knife would make a good starting point, with elements adopted from common hunting and utility knives from the era. One manufacturer seemed to be more responsive or easier to work with than the rest: Union Cutlery.

Union Cutlery lengthened and widened the blade while using a thicker bar of steel from which to grind. The famous “blood groove” was adopted to lighten the blade, and a stacked handle made of leather washers was selected to improve the grip. In keeping with Mil-spec metal treatments, the blade, pommel, and steel cross guard were Parkerized as opposed to being polished. Lastly, the profile of the blade was changed to a clip point as featured on the American Bowie knife (refer to Part One of our knife history series in Issue 37 for an overview of this iconic tool).

Davis and America felt they had their knife and put it to the test. While it passed with flying colors, they ran into a problem purchasing the knife, so they had to escalate to the commandant of the Marine Corps, Lt. General Thomas Holcomb. The commandant overrode the quartermaster’s decision, and the Marine Corps officially approved the knife on November 23, 1942, as the M1219C2. It would be manufactured by several different suppliers in subsequent years.

They may differ cosmetically between original and current manufacture, but the materials remain mostly the same along with the Ka-Bar’s form and function.

Instant Appeal

Marines received their first shipment of knives from Camillus Cutlery on January 27, 1943. It turned out to be a hit with the sailors working alongside the Marines as well, so the Navy adopted it as a diving/utility knife known as the U.S. Navy Utility Knife, Mark 2. This bit of interservice rivalry caused the Marine Corps to rename the M1219C2 as the USMC Mark 2 Combat Knife. Other records of the time reflect the official USMC name as “Knife, Fighting Utility.”

As the Marine Corps falls under the much larger Department of the Navy, most World War II-era knives are marked “USN Mark 2,” regardless of where they ended up. Although initial shipments went to the infantry first, by 1944 every Marine who needed or even wanted a knife had one, and manufacturers made them by the thousands.

Camillus Cutlery has produced over 1 million Ka-Bar knives. Other manufacturers during World War II included Robeson Cutlery and, of course, the Union Cutlery. For some reason, the big Ka-Bar lettering on the ricasso (flat of the blade near the handle) of the Union Cutlery-made knives made an impression on the Marines. By 1944, all Marines were referring to their USMC Mark 2 Combat Knives as simply “Ka-Bars.”

This didn’t go unnoticed, and in 1952, Union Cutlery formally rebranded as Ka-Bar Cutlery.

The Postwar Ka-Bar

As a generation of veterans mustered out of service, they took their Ka-Bars home with them because they were solid working knives. Footage from the war and the popularity of war movies showed the Ka-Bar to those who didn’t serve, and when people wanted a hunting or camping knife, they often went with a Ka-Bar as a result of these influences.

As the decades passed, the U.S. military kept the Ka-Bar in service. Camillus Cutlery was still their number-one supplier, followed by Utica Cutlery, and, after the Vietnam War, Ontario Knife. These companies and a few others like W.R. Case made the same knives for the civilian market, too.

Above: The Ka-Bar knife was a much-needed replacement to the dagger-like blades of the V-42 stiletto and the M1917 trench knife.

The Ka-Bar as a Survival Knife

For the price of $70 to $100, a good Ka-Bar knife is tough to beat for an all-purpose field knife. There’s a licensed version made in China for a lot less, but stick with a U.S.-made version for better quality steel and other materials.

There are higher-end versions of the Ka-Bar design that have used D2 tool steel in the blade. Some have been made with synthetic handles as a modern revision to the traditional stacked leather washer handle. A number of custom knife makers have even used the pattern to make a more decorative style, incorporating Damascus steel or even super steels like S30V or BG-42.

Despite the numerous offshoots on the market, we still think that the original Mil-spec varieties make for a good all-purpose field knife.

With a proper edge, it can be used to skin game. It’s tough enough for most bushcraft chores like splitting kindling or fashioning wooden stakes. If you find yourself without a hammer or mallet, the butt can be used to pound tent stakes while the blade is sheathed for safety.

Lastly, it makes for an effective fighting knife and weapon. One of the earliest examples was used to kill a bear, and a number of historical military stories list the knife as being used effectively as a weapon, not just from WWII through Vietnam, but as recently as a few years ago …

“No Man Left Behind” statue at Camp Pendleton, California. Photos provided by Cameron and Brittany Carden.

Legacy of the Ka-Bar

In the Battle of Fallujah, then 1st Sgt. Bradley Kasal found himself down to hand-to-hand combat to protect his junior Marines. Kasal fought his way through a house with a Beretta M9 pistol in one hand and his Ka-Bar knife in the other.

Kasal, who was with 3rd Battalion, 1st Marines, received the Navy Cross for his actions that day. The citation reads that on November 13, 2004, he was assisting a combined anti-armor platoon and saw gunfire break out in front of him, and then Marines run out of a building. When Kasal found out that insurgents had pinned Marines in their position inside the house, he and others fought their way inside. In the process, Kasal was wounded in the legs, and when an insurgent threw a grenade, Kasal rolled onto another Marine to shield him from the blast. He later refused medical attention until others were cared for, and he rallied Marines as they cleared the house.

As he was being medevaced from the building, a photographer snapped an iconic photo of him being helped out of the “Hell House” by two Marines. Kasal’s Beretta was still clearly visible in one hand and his Ka-Bar knife in the other. In 2014, that photo was used as the basis for two bronze statues called “No Man Left Behind.” These statues can be found today at the Wounded Warrior Battalions at Camp Lejeune, North Carolina, and Camp Pendleton, California.

We’re almost 20 years short of celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Ka-Bar knife, and moments like that day in Fallujah will ensure the knife is still serving somewhere around the world another 100 years from now.

As simple and plain as it may look, the Ka-Bar is clearly no ordinary knife.

More on Iconic Survival Knives: