RECOIL OFFGRID DIY Build a DIY Micro Rappel Kit
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Being able to rappel is an often overlooked and underappreciated skill. In a lot of scenarios, like in the mountains, burning buildings, clandestine operations or anywhere high up where things could go wrong fast, sometimes the best direction to go is down. However, falling is not an option.
The problem with rappelling kits — or abseiling as they call it across the pond — is that they are often large, expensive, and heavy. But what if a person had something that is the opposite of all these things? A rappelling kit that is practical in size, reasonable in cost and lighter than most other backcountry gear? Well, I’ve been on a mission to accomplish just that.
This DIY kit I created weighs less than 3 pounds, contains enough rope for a single-line 45-foot rappel, and costs roughly $250. For context, the average climbing rope is around $150. That is for about 65 feet of rope the width of a thumb. The average cost of a so-called “micro rappelling kit,” prebuilt and intended for military or first responder use, is often $600 to $1,000, depending on the setup. These kits are also usually designed for a specific application. An example of this would be escape kits (we will get to these later), which are oriented toward firefighters. The cost of these kits is in the high $500 range. They are built specifically to escape from building windows and not for much else. Plus, they are not retrievable from the bottom.
Kits like these are fine, but they tick only two of the three boxes I mentioned above: size, weight, and cost. My kit beat out all the commercial kits, not just in size, weight, and cost, but in every possible category.
As someone who has been climbing for many years, and an avid outdoorsman and survivalist, possessing something like Batman’s toolbelt is an appealing prospect. (Batman was always able to get himself out of any situation.) You might not be able to carry everything Batman strapped to his belt, but a kit like this — lightweight, fast to deploy, and practical — is within reach, and one I think even Batman would be proud of.
Regarding climbing and rope systems, the standard measurement is the Kilonewton (kN). This is weight measured in a quick loading session, such as a fall. However, it also applies statically (under consistent load). In rescue, the safety margin is often 10:1, meaning a system must be built to withstand over 10 times the load intended to be put into it. That really is overkill, but unlike many kits on the market, I wanted to beat that standard as well and build my system as close to that standard as possible.
To rappel, a person needs five things: a descending device, carabiners, a harness, a rope and an anchor. First, a person needs a device to descend to the ground with, usually by creating friction. Second, a person needs devices that create attachment points, such as carabiners. Third, a person needs the ability to attach him or herself to the system. Fourth, a person needs a rope, cord or wire to travel down as the medium of travel (other than the air). Finally, a person needs the ability to attach the rope to the top. This kit contains all of these essential pieces to affect a rappel.
kN, or Kilonewtons, are the standard measurement in climbing. They symbolize 1,000 newtons of force and are used because they measure the peak load applied to equipment during a fall. A newton is equivalent to the force required to accelerate one kilogram of mass one meter per second, squared.
The Micro-Rappel kit uses a micro rescue figure eight, certified to hold 30kN. The one shown is an Amazon special, $17, but I would recommend the Rock Exotica MiniEight. The only problem with the Rock Exotica is this would drop the final minimum breaking strength (MBS) estimate because it is “only” rated to 14kN. For those nervous, that is still plenty.
Most descending gear has trouble using smaller ropes. This is because small ropes create less friction in the device. Since these pieces of equipment are designed for standard rope widths, the utilization of a figure eight or similar tool was necessitated. These devices are often used by canyoneers and rescue teams because friction can be added on the fly, during a rappel. They also seem to work better with smaller and slicker rope, even when the rope is wet.
The climbing carabiners I used in the kit come with the standard climbing carabiner rating of around 25kN. Considering that a person in a system is generalized to be 1kN, or around 224 pounds (remember that number for our 10:1 comparison later), 25kN is more than enough. I went with the tried-and-true Black Diamond HotForge Screwgate light-weight carabiners. These are CE EN 12275 certified to 24kN, horizontally when they are closed. They are UIAA confirmed to be 25kN.
Equipment ratings are important to understand when building a kit like this, or when purchasing any gear. In the world of climbers, arborists, and alpinists the standard rating system for gear is the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation). Gear with a UIAA certification that is up to date means that the specific equipment has passed tests that meet safety standards set by UIAA. Each individual product line must pass, and ratings do expire. These ratings confirm what levels the manufacturers claim their equipment to test at. Products that are certified can be searched on the UIAA website.
The second bulkiest part of a rope system is the harness, and I needed one that would fold up super small into the kit. To do this, I employ a nifty quick-fitting hasty-field-harness technique, utilizing about 11 feet of tubular webbing tied into a loop with a backup enforced water knot. Rock-N-Rescue certifies their tubular webbing at about 17kN. When doubled up, that is often the strongest anchor a person can create, getting up to almost 40kN.
The water knot is the strongest and simplest way to tie webbing end to end or around an anchor. Tie a loose overhand in one end, then thread the other end back through, tracing the knot. Cinch it tight, keeping both strands flat. Finish with safety overhands on each tail for added security and a clean look.
This hasty field harness is fast to set up and comfortable to wear. Start with a sling of tubular webbing held in front. Bite one end to free your hands, then run the bottom of the sling between your legs (avoiding a painful cross-through for men). Bring each side around your waist so a single strand rests across your lower back. Join the two waist loops in front, split the bite held in your teeth, and thread each side through the waist loops. Release the bite and pull the new loops together to form the tie-in point. Clip in with a carabiner or basket hitch, and the harness is secure under tension.
Water knots are used specifically for flat webbing or tubular material. They can be used to create gear loops, building anchors, and other outdoor and camping tasks. When using a water knot, it is essential to leave long, 3- to 6-inch tails on both ends to prevent slipping.
ope is not only the weakest point, but the bulkiest item in most rope systems. To reduce bulk, the kit needed a small rope, but that would inevitably make it even more vulnerable. Smaller ropes are weaker and less durable under tension. There were two options: dynamic and static. In the climbing rope world, these two varieties translate to stretchy rope and non-stretchy rope, respectively. Climbers use dynamic rope because it stretches during a fall, lessening the forces on the climber.
Dynamic ropes are rated weaker than static ropes since they are designed to spread all the force across their length. This means the longer the fall, the less force is present in the entire system, and the rating does not need to be that high. While this is good for a high wall climber, it also makes rappelling and working statically on a rope more difficult. It can be frustrating to rappel free hanging, especially if it stretches under tension — it tends to bounce. It also means that, once at the bottom, the user has difficulty getting their equipment to disengage the rope. That rope will spring back up into the air as it tries to return to its regular length. None of these are good qualities. For the Micro-Rappel kit, static was the better option: stronger and with less stretch.
The challenge was finding a rope small enough to fit in a sock, yet strong and durable enough to meet safety standards. Standard 6mm accessory cord, rated at only 7–8kN, was inadequate for single-line rappels — usable in a pinch, but far from reliable. Doubling it met strength requirements but cut range and bulked the kit. The breakthrough came from firefighter escape systems, which use advanced materials like Technora, a Kevlar variant that is incredibly strong, heat resistant, and abrasion resistant. Technora ropes are two to three times stronger than nylon of larger size, making them ideal for this kit. I eventually found a 6mm, 50-foot Sterling Technora rope rated at 21 kN, perfect for compact carry and far stronger than accessory cord. To round out the kit, I added an extended rappel system with a loop of standard 6mm cord, basket hitched through the harness, for comfort and stability during rappels with a heavy pack.
Solving the retrieving conundrum was easy. 550 paracord would be super slim and easily used as a pull cord. The only weight it would ever be put under was pulling down the top end of the rope. It is also cheap.
To use the pull cord, I pull the coiled main rope out, wrap it around something as my anchor, then throw the rope down. Then, I hook the end of the 550 cord to the carabiner in the anchor and throw the bag containing the cord down. At the bottom, I just pull the line, and it will carry the carabiner and the rope down with it.
550 paracord is often advertised as (hypothetically) holding 550 pounds. In the case of climbing, there is a reason kN is used, instead of pounds. The actual weight on equipment in a system multiplies significantly when any velocity is added. 550 may hold a person’s weight statically (hanging still), but if a person hops on the cord, it can snap. As a pull cord, there is no weight, other than pulling the system from the other end. 550 pounds are usually more than enough to pull free a blocking knot at the top, from the bottom.
Having a secure harness is of the utmost importance in regards to safety. If you feel uncertain about any of these steps, reach out to your local climbing community for proper hands-on instruction.
For the anchor, the kit uses the rope itself in a “beaner-block” technique, to save space and weight, and allow retrieval of the line, at the cost of strength. This technique is where the top end of the rope is tied to a carabiner and wrapped around the object being used as an anchor, whatever it is. Then, the carabiner is clipped back to the rope, creating a tightening loop, or slipknot, around the anchor. By tying the paracord to the carabiner, I could use the line to pull the rope down from the bottom.
Technora is an aramid fiber, meaning it is highly heat resistant; it does not melt together with itself. Therefore, ropes made with it should never be cut to length unless the user knows how to properly seal the ends. If the rope is not properly sealed, or “whipped,” the core and the sheath of the rope can slip. This can result in reduced strength and durability of the rope, and potentially failure to function as advertised.
This kit also utilizes a small loop of that accessory cord as a prusik. Prusiks are loops of cord, or rope, usually thinner than the actual climbing or rappelling rope being used. These range from a foot or so in length, to several feet, and are basically climbing multi-tools. I used this for a “safety,” or a third hand, under the rappelling device. As the prusik isn’t weight bearing, it doesn’t factor into our final safety ratio calculations.
Considering all the ratings in the system, the last thing to do was to look at every piece, find the weakest link, then divide to find my safety ratio. For those following along at home, the accessory cord is easily the weakest. However, I said I doubled this up and utilized a basket hitch. Mathematically, this tends to almost double the strength of the cord, bringing the strength to about 16kN, the last number in my system. This means that the kit’s technical weakest point (other than the knots) is about 16kN. 16 divided by 1 is 16. I was not very good at math in school, but to me that sounds like a 16:1 safety ratio. Better than the standard 10:1. I like those odds.
There are a few important considerations to note after assembling this kit. First, many ropes lose significant strength at the knot, and Technora is especially prone to this — sometimes by as much as 40 percent. Factoring that in, the rope’s strength drops to around 10–11kN, still 10 to 11 times the expected load.
Second, this is a homemade kit built from individually sourced parts. Prices, availability, and setup may vary, so anyone attempting a similar build should research their gear carefully, understand its limitations, and consider the situations in which they expect to use it. Anchor systems are another variable. In urban settings, investing in a firefighter-style anchor hook designed for doorjambs or window corners may be worthwhile. Rope length is also critical: even if the rappel itself is less than 45 feet, additional rope may be needed to secure anchors around solid structures or to reach an ideal tie-off point.
I also added a spare harness to the kit so I can belay or lower another person in an emergency. In that case, my own harness would serve as the anchor. Rescue knots such as the munter-mule-overhand are useful here, since they allow you to lock off and then lower a person from a carabiner or a descender. Using the same rappel gear, I can clip someone else into the system for lowering, or reconfigure it mid-descent into a 3:1 haul system to raise a person or heavy gear.
For carrying the kit, I found a Condor MOLLE water bottle pouch worked perfectly. It’s roomy enough to avoid cramming gear inside, includes a drain hole at the bottom, and with a length of 550 cord tied off through the hole, it doubles as a throw bag.
Lastly, I wanted extra durability for the rope. Since this is an emergency kit that won’t see frequent use, I still needed peace of mind for when it is called upon. A 6-foot length of spare tubular webbing solved that problem. By threading the rope through the webbing, I created a movable protective sheath that can be slid into place over edges or rough surfaces, adding an extra barrier where abrasion is most likely.
The prusik knot is an adjustable hitch that grips the rope, often used as a “third hand” for rappelling. To tie it, wrap a loop of cord around the rope two or three times, passing it through itself each time. More wraps create more friction. Cinch and dress the knot, then clip it with a carabiner. When attached below the descender, it locks the rope if the rappeler goes hands-free.
The basket hitch is one of the simplest and strongest climbing hitches, since it uses no knots beyond the sling ends. To tie it, pass the sling through the harness tie-in point and clip both ends into a carabiner.
The figure-eight knot is the standard tie-in knot for climbing, used to secure a rope to carabiners or harness points. To tie it, form a bight, wrap it around itself, and pass the end back through the loop. Cinch and dress the knot for maximum strength. I use it to attach the rope to the anchor carabiner.
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Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.
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