Pistol Caliber Compatibility: Ruger PC Carbine Review

Photos by AZPhotoMan

The sound of a roaring engine wakes you from your sleep. You leap out of bed and look out the window, only to see your truck speeding backward out of the driveway with a stranger behind the wheel. As the man slams your truck into gear and takes off down the block, you notice the neighbors frantically throwing suitcases into their van. You can hear sirens echoing in the distance. Whatever’s happening, it’s not good. Now's the time to get your family to a safer location, but the highways are sure to be jammed with frantic drivers, so you grab your bug-out bags and prepare to hit the road on foot.

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In this hypothetical scenario, what weapons would you bring? A compact 9mm handgun, such as a Glock 19, provides a concealable means of personal protection, so it would be a good place to start. However, relying entirely on a pistol might be unwise in the long run. The limited range and accuracy of a handgun may not suffice when the time comes to hunt for food. On the other hand, running out of the city with a rifle in hand may draw unwanted attention.

Long-time readers of this magazine might recall the Ruger 10/22 Takedown survival rifle we built in Issue 8. Such a rifle is lightweight, packable, great for hunting small game, and could make a strong addition to your bug-out loadout. However, it would also require carrying extra magazines and .22LR ammo, a caliber that isn’t optimal for personal defense or hunting larger animals.

Ruger has released a new rifle that shares the spirit of the 10/22 Takedown, but potentially offers more versatility and stopping power. The Ruger PC Carbine is a takedown model chambered in 9mm rather than .22LR. Better yet, it’s compatible with the extra Glock magazines you’d already be carrying in the scenario above. This means you’d need to carry fewer mags and only one type of ammo, simplifying your load out.

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Intrigued by the potential value of this rifle, we set out to learn more about it and test one firsthand at the range.

Ruger PC Carbine Background

Ruger’s first attempt at a pistol-caliber carbine came in the Ruger Police Carbine that hit the market in 1996. The Police Carbine was marketed as a shoulder-fired companion for use alongside Ruger’s P-series pistol, as both used the same feeding source. Citing low demand, the Police Carbine was discontinued by Ruger in 2006.

Over the years, loyal customers have refused to accept the demise of Ruger’s pistol-caliber carbine line and, according to president and CEO Chris Killoy, “have long been requesting the return of a Ruger pistol-caliber carbine.” Ruger obliged its customers’ requests with the reincarnation of its pistol-caliber carbine in the form of the PC Carbine. This versatile and highly customizable firearm brings many desirable features that are sure to be as popular with RECOIL OFFGRID readers as its price tag.

With lines drawn from the Mini 14, the PC Carbine is undeniably Ruger. The compact profile of a MRDS makes it a perfect...

We met this lovechild of the Ruger Police Carbine and the Ruger 10/22 Takedown a few weeks before its official release date. After spending some time disassembling, reconfiguring, reassembling, and shooting this lovely medley of glass-filled nylon and steel, here’s what we learned.

Specs

  • Model: 19102
  • Caliber: 9mm Luger
  • Barrel Length: 16.12 inches
  • Overall Length: 34.37 inches
  • Magazine Capacity: 17
  • Weight Unloaded: 6.8 pounds
  • MSRP: $649
  • URL: www.ruger.com

Operation

Like its Police Carbine predecessor, this new carbine utilizes a dead-blow action. The bolt is held forward by its inertia and spring pressure. A custom tungsten dead-blow weight shortens bolt travel and reduces felt recoil and muzzle rise.

Barrel

The Ruger PC Carbine has a cold hammer-forged, chrome-moly steel barrel with precision rifling. The barrel is fluted for weight reduction, bringing the gun in at just 6.8 pounds with an empty tank. The Model 19100 featured here is threaded with a ½-inch-28 thread pattern for use with standard muzzle accessories and comes with a screw-on thread protector. For those living in more restrictive locales, the Model 19101 includes all the same features, minus the scary barrel threading. (NOTE: This is the same muzzle thread pitch as standard AR-15 barrels. Make sure any muzzle device you attach to the PC Carbine is, in fact, a 9mm muzzle device and not a 5.56mm muzzle device.)

Barrel Assembly Takedown

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The PC Carbine can be fully disassembled with a 5/32 Allen wrench. Note the plug-and-play magazine well assemblies...

The Ruger 10/22 Takedown has been a popular weapon among outdoorsmen and survivalists because the barrel assembly can be quickly, easily, and safely disassembled and reassembled without losing zero. Capitalizing on a good thing, Ruger designed the PC Carbine in the same fashion, using the already proven locking system of the 10/22 Takedown. Simply push the recessed locking lever and rotate the barrel/fore end assembly counterclockwise to unlock the barrel from the receiver and break the carbine in half, making it backpack compatible.

Interchangeable Magazines

The most notable feature on the PC Carbine is its interchangeable magazines. Ruger designed the PC Carbine to accept common Ruger 9mm pistol magazines like the SR-Series and Security 9. It can also accept Ruger American Pistol magazines, but that will require the purchase of an optional magazine-well adapter ($30). Ruger could have stopped there and called it a day, but they took things one step further to ensure that this new carbine would be a draw to more than just die-hard Ruger fans. With a quick and easy swap to a mag-well that's included with every PC Carbine, the gun will accept standard Glock 9mm magazines. This is a somewhat unexpected move by Ruger, as they aren’t known for being particularly well supported by the aftermarket or even concerned with ease-of-compatibility for the end user. We’re thankful to see it and, if the S ever really does HTF, you’ll probably be thankful too.

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The Elite Tactical Systems Gen4 Glock 17, 19, and 18 magazines make a great companion to the PC Carbine.

Swapping out magazine well assemblies couldn’t be any easier. Even without the aid of a user’s manual, we were able to figure out how to exchange the preinstalled SR-Series/Security 9 magazine well with the included Glock-compatible magazine well in a matter of minutes. With the barrel/fore end assembly removed, simply remove the receiver from the stock via the two 5/32-inch hex takedown screws, then compress the magazine release and remove the magwell assembly from the top. Slide in the other magwell assembly, and you’re ready to feed lead from your favorite Glock magazine.

User Customization

Having options like ambidextrous controls used to be a concern for only the small percentage of left-handed shooters out there, but as shooting techniques and tactics have continued to develop along with firearms technology, the need for customization has become more apparent. That need is compounded when we break away from familiar tactical platforms like the AR-15 and try to carry over our well-ingrained tactics. The customizable features of the PC Carbine help bring the shooter to a happy place where their weapon manipulation skills can be familiar and efficient.
Out of the box, the PC Carbine is set up with the magazine release button on the left side and the charging handle on the right side. Since we here at RECOIL OFFGRID tend to look at things from the aforementioned SHTF perspective, we decided to reconfigure this setup to make it more combat friendly.

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The takedown capability of the PC Carbine makes it a welcome addition to a bug-out bag. The gun can be quickly...

After working through some reloads and figuring out the most efficient order of operations, we moved the charging handle to the left side and the mag-release button to the right side. Swapping the charging handle to the left side allowed for FAL-style support-hand operation of the bolt assembly. Having the mag-release on the left side required us to hit the release at an awkward angle using the thumb and reducing the efficiency of the reloading procedure, whereas moving it to the right allowed us to slide the support-hand straight back and hit the release with the middle finger while en route to a fresh magazine on the belt.

To account for body size and length of pull variations between shooters, the PC Carbine comes with three ½-inch spacers that allow the length of pull to be adjusted from 12 5/8- to 14 1/8-inch in ½-inch increments. These spacers sit between the buttstock and recoil pad and are held in place with two hex screws.

Trigger

The bang switch on the PC Carbine uses 80-percent 10/22 components. The trigger is decent out of the box — it has a crisp pull and positive reset with minimal overtravel. Although we didn’t have a chance to test this theory, it’s quite possible that if one were to obtain certain quality 10/22 aftermarket trigger parts, one might end up with an enhanced trigger worthy of the highest accolades. But again, it’s just a theory.

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Sights

The PC Carbine is outfitted with a ghost-ring adjustable rear sight and a non-glare, protected front sight. Both sights are mounted on the barrel forward of the receiver. This reduces the sight radius but ensures consistency during takedown and reassembly. All adjustments are made with the rear sight by loosening the windage or elevation set screws and sliding the aperture in the direction you want bullet impact to shift.

The sighting system is probably the PC Carbine’s biggest downfall. The free-sliding aperture and lack of positive click adjustments make small sighting corrections more difficult than necessary, but it's still a functional system. Fortunately, the PC Carbine has plenty of rail space on the receiver, so in keeping with the compact, packable nature of the gun, we installed an EOTech Mini Red Dot Sight (MRDS) for use during testing. It proved to be a perfect companion for the PC Carbine.

Lead Downrange

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Even with a less-than-perfect zero, keeping rapidly executed shots in the upper A-zones at 15 yards was an easy task.

With the PC Carbine reconfigured to our liking, we dropped in the Glock magazine well, grabbed a handful of Gen4 9mm Glock magazines, courtesy of Elite Tactical Systems, and headed to the range to see what this baby could do. Included in the range bag were several boxes of Federal’s 115-grain Train + Protect VHP and the newly released 124-grain American Eagle Syntech ammunition.

After getting a quick zero with the MRDS at 25 yards to make sure we were on paper, we moved back to the 50-yard line to get a more suitable zero. At 50 yards, shot grouping was consistently within 1.5 inches with both the 115- and 124-grain. This is quite an acceptable level of accuracy for a pistol-caliber weapon. What’s more, the PC Carbine retained its zero after takedown and reassembly, even with the optic mounted on the receiver.

We spent most of the range time running “up drills” at 15 yards — two- to three-round volleys. The barely noticeable recoil and red-dot optic made target acquisition and follow-up shots quick and accurate. Our chief complaint from a tactical standpoint would be the push-button safety, which requires the shooter to break their shooting grip to put the gun on safe. Not a deal-breaker, though, as this is a common and reliable safety design.

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Functionally, the PC Carbine performed quite well. In almost 400 rounds of hard running, we failed to experience a single malfunction. This brings us to our final word of caution. The PC Carbine is extremely fun to shoot, so if you’re not careful, you can easily blow through several boxes of 9mm before you remember you’re not shooting a 10/22.

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a packable long-arm that won’t break the bank and is compatible with your beloved Glock or Ruger-family 9mm pistol, the Ruger PC Carbine might just be the answer. Your bug-out bag will welcome the addition.

More From Issue 25

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 26

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


New: Klymit KSB Double Sleeping Bag

You've probably seen a movie or TV show where the intrepid hero is trapped in a blizzard or snow cave and snuggles up with the hot blonde to conserve body heat. Although this trope has been thoroughly played-out by Hollywood, there's truth behind the claim. Staying close to another warm body can help you keep your core temperature up throughout the night and avoid hypothermia. So although the hero probably has something else in mind, his survival logic is sound.

Klymit KSB Double down sleeping bag camping hiking backpacking gear 2

If you go camping with your spouse or significant other, you might rely on separate sleeping bags, or you might zip together your sleeping bags to form a larger blanket. Klymit has developed what it says is a better solution. The company's new Klymit KSB Double sleeping bag that allows enough space for two people, and also offers some clever features to help each individual regulate his or her body temperature.

Read our full Klymit KSB Double Review

Klymit KSB Double down sleeping bag camping hiking backpacking gear 4

The Klymit KSB Double sleeping bag contains 650-fill-power white duck down inside a soft-touch sil-nylon fabric shell with DWR coating. The bag is rated to 30˚F, and packs down smaller than two full-size bags thanks to its integrated design. The oversized hood can fit two large pillows, and the bag's top is removable for conversion into a full-size comforter blanket.

Klymit KSB Double down sleeping bag camping hiking backpacking gear 5

Knowing that every individual prefers a different level of warmth at night, Klymit made the collar, hood, and zipper adjustable on each side of the bag. A pad sleeve on the underside of the bag is also designed to retain two individual sleeping pads or one of Klymit's Double V or Insulated Double V pads. This feature prevents the sleeping bag from sliding off the pad during the night.

Klymit KSB Double down sleeping bag camping hiking backpacking gear 3

The new Klymit KSB Double sleeping bag weighs 4.7 pounds, packs down to 9″ by 18″, and is available at an MSRP of $400. For more info, go to Klymit.com.

For our thoughts on the single version of this KSB 30˚F system, read our review of that sleeping bag here.


Mykel Hawke on Breaking the Language Barrier

When it comes to survival, an often overlooked but seriously critical skill is language. You might be thinking, how is a language going to help me survive? It may not be able to start a fire, but let’s look at how language is the spark that ignites teamwork, a critical component of survival.

First, if you’re not leaving the country, how can a foreign language help you survive? What if you’re lost, hurt, or need help from a stranger who doesn’t speak English? Or stuck in the middle of a large-scale disaster and good folks around you only speak Spanish? Or if someone is conspiring to steal from you, and you’re linguistically oblivious to their intentions?

Even if you have no plans to travel internationally, language skills at home could wind up being critical to saving your life or helping others. Think of the predominant cultures concentrated in different regions of the U.S. Throughout the country, Spanish is the best foreign language to study, as it has the highest potential for use. But if you’re in Louisiana or the Northeast near Canada, French will serve you better. On the West Coast, Chinese might be another survival language to study. Ask yourself where you’re headed and examine some of the U.S. Census data to determine which languages have a strong presence in various areas of the country.

Breaking language barrier communication travel emergency survival speech 1

Familiarization with a second language for international travel is also an important survival skill. Overseas, not everyone speaks English or is willing to use it even if they know it. In this case, asking for a lighter in the native language of wherever you are could indeed help you get a fire started — touché!

Fluency vs. Functionality

Most people who study a foreign language get discouraged quickly for one main reason — time. Teachers operate on the logical premise that you want to become fluent, which requires a strong foundational base and a lot of time. They start with the alphabet and grammar rules, and it could be months or years before you get to really use the language.

As a former Green Beret, we were often deployed on short notice to strange locations around the globe. Usually, no one spoke English, and we rarely had an interpreter or linguist on the team. Without a translator, and back then with no software or apps, we faced a lot of challenges and misunderstandings. Sometimes the results were hilarious. Sometimes, not so much.

After a few of these short-fuse missions, I realized there was a pattern of what components of language were actually used. I wrote them down on paper and saw a pattern of how to speak in a purely functional manner. It wasn’t perfect, but it was mostly grammatically correct. I certainly didn’t sound like a native, but I wasn’t trying to. Often, I spoke like a simple child, but all my thoughts could be conveyed and my mission could be accomplished. And that’s the survivalist’s way of learning a language on the fly.

Learn it the guerilla way — focus on the stuff that matters. Analyze your own vocabulary in the course of a normal day with family, friends, and coworkers, and you’ll find you typically only use about 200 words. Focusing your early effort on learning basic vocabulary allows you to communicate basic needs and maybe understand the gist of an overheard conversation.

Even basic vocabulary building still requires time and effort, but it’s not hard and you can start functioning on day one. By week one, you can communicate the basics. There are many books, apps, and other learning aids available to help you learn the language info you need.

Forming Common Expressions

We’ll skip basic grammar and head directly into which words are the most useful. Let’s break it down by familiar parts of speech.

Nouns: people, place, and thing. Make a list of key nouns you’ll use in tough situations such as food, water, and help.

Verbs: to need, to go, to do

Adjectives: good, bad, big, little. Start with one, and learn its opposite.

Adverbs: well, poorly, quickly, and slowly. Again, learn one and its antonym.

Prepositions: in, out, above, below, etc.

Conjugations: Start with two: I want and you want, for example. Many languages have a root verb that changes according to who says it. For example, I want versus she wants.

Time: now, later, today, tomorrow, yesterday, before, after

Interrogatives: Who, what, when, where, why, how, how much

Courtesy: If you open every time with please and close with thank you, no matter how badly you hack their language, you’ll know you’re trying and you’ll score points for politeness.

Salutations: hello, goodbye, my name is, what’s your name

So, putting it all together, it may look something like: “Hello. My name is John/Jane. I need water. Where, please? Thanks.”

Bam! Day one, speaking and communicating. Now, pick your language, and we’ll look at some tools to help get you there. An hour a day is a good start.

Training Tools

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Books: A dictionary is key, but start with a youth version, as it’ll help you learn how to pronounce and conjugate, while utilizing simpler words. A phrase book showing the language, your language, and phonetic pronunciation is vital to quick learning.

Music: Buy some slower music, even children’s music, as a great way to help your ear and brain adjust to the language and pick up words. Stuff like “Old MacDonald” and other common nursery rhymes will turn what you’re already familiar with into a new form. You can download them onto you phone, tablet, or computer and listen whenever time allows.

Media: Watch children’s shows in the target language. Buy some DVDs or watch some shows online. Download them so you can watch when traveling or not connected to the net. Try not to start with movies you know by heart, as the speed and complexity of the spoken language with plot subtexts is often not quite right in the translation and you may learn some things wrong — and for sure you’ll be overwhelmed.

Also, if you have satellite radio or TV, try to find programming in your desired language. You can watch with subtitles, which always helps, but without is still OK. The more you’re exposed, the more you’ll begin to pick up the basics. Bottom line, self-imposed immersion is a proven method. So listen and watch, with or without subtitles — it all goes in. Even if it sounds like machine gun rapid fire, the more you listen the more your brain gets attuned and reprogrammed to pick it up.

For study aids, check out: Berlitz, Barron’s, Lonely Planet, Langenscheidts, Oxford, Fodors and Pimsleur. Find the ones that fit your style, needs, and budget. There are many free products out there; try those first and then invest more as you’re ready to get more out of it.

Mobile Applications

There are so many great mobile apps for learning languages. You can find free ones or pay for one. Usually, the premium ones are ad free and work better.

There are apps that use your mobile device’s camera to translate written language, and some that allow folks to speak into your phone and they’ll attempt to translate. These are awesome, but often slow, flawed, and, if not connected to the internet, they don’t work at all. Don’t become reliant on technology to do the work for you. You need to shoulder the bulk of the learning process in case you’re in a situation where technology isn’t accessible.

Google Translate is one of the best. You can type in passages and translate more than 100 languages when connected to the internet — about half that when you’re not. It can work with more than 30 languages when translating photos of signs, watching videos, and translating spoken language.

Microsoft isn’t quite able to match up to Google overall; however, its real-time language translator is simply the best one out there right now. SayHi is one of the better apps for speech-to-speech translation, and, in general, Speak & Translate as well as TripLingo are other excellent apps.

For Asian languages and their unique characters, some apps specialize in these and are really good for native European language speakers, such as Papago and Waygo.

There are also wearable translating devices, such as the iLi and The Pilot. They have limitations, but are way cheaper than hiring a personal translator.

Finally, there are some photo-translating apps that allow you to take a photo of a sign or billboard, for example, and then translate it. They require internet connectivity, so they have some limitations on their utility, but signs are often in a city or you can type the letters in your translator app when not connected and read your downloaded dictionary info to figure it out.

Not Everything Translates Equally

In the U.S., we take this generally accepted hand gesture to mean “OK.” However, it’s not universally understood that way, and you may unintentionally offend someone using it in another country. Do your research and be cognizant of what’s acceptable in other cultures.

In the U.S., we take this generally accepted hand gesture to mean “OK.” However, it’s not universally understood...

Gestures: A simple “OK” sign in America equates to calling someone an “a**hole” in other countries. Do your homework.

Culture: In some places, people can become highly offended if you stop and ask a woman for directions or show the bottoms of your feet, for example. Be smart.

Don’t assume you’ll get off the hook for these offenses because you’re a foreigner. And learn the common signs of other cultures if you plan to travel there; not every nation uses U.S. or EU-style signage.

Also, some cultures yell as a way of communicating — don’t take it personally. Yelling back doesn’t make them understand you any better, so don’t get frustrated and become the ugly American. Stay calm, expect mistakes, and have a sense of humor. You’ll get through it. You may make some lifelong friends along the way.

In the sidebar, we compiled a list of the top 10 phrases to learn. The first key to success in using them is to choose the easiest one for you to learn, remember it, and then use the heck out of it!
The next key is to maximize use of the interrogatives and always use polite words (please, thank you, excuse me, I’m sorry) to cover any mistakes you make with general words associated with kindness, as way to ensure the maximum willingness and helpfulness from those you query.

Memory Keys

Spend a day writing down words in your target language and listen online how to say them. Then, write down how that sounds to your ears, commit it to memory, and you can speak in a day. Use memory keys or associations that help you remember.

For example, the Russian word for “key” is pronounced “clootch.” I associate that with “she uses a key to lock her clutch bag,” and I can always recall the word via that association in my brain.

Kid’s Stuff

For media, always start with kid’s stuff, and work your way up. Get as many things with subtitles as you can. It’s like studying a martial art, don’t try to get into the ring and fight competitively until you’ve mastered your own moves first. Slow is fast, fast is slow — you’ll learn bad habits (getting words and meanings wrong), and it’ll take twice as long to unlearn the bad and relearn them correctly.

Working in nine different conflicts over three decades, when we had to find translators in a place where almost no one spoke English, we mainly encountered two kinds — professors and young adults. It wasn’t hard to understand how the professors learned English, but when asked, the kids almost all said they learned English the same way — from MTV!

Top 10 Phrases to Learn in Any Language

While technology is great, there’s no substitute for committing things to memory. Learning key phrases like these in...

1. Hello. My name is _______. What is your name?
2. I need help or Can you help me, please?
3. Can, would, or are you able to show me, please?
4. How do I get there or do that, please?
5. Where is that person/place/thing, please?
6. When is that or this, please?
7. What is that? or What do I do, please?
8. Who can help? or Who is that, please?
9. How much is best instead of how long or how far, as you can always say how much time, how much distance, as well as the usual how much does something cost.
10. Thank you, goodbye, until later, go in peace.

Key Things to Remember

Always repeat what you think someone said in the simplest way you know. They’ll respond either “Yes, blah, blah blah” and you’ll know you understood the gist or they’ll say “No, blah, blah, blah” and say more words, and you can then focus on key words. Then you can focus on listening for vital info like “go left” or “right,” etc.

Constantly listen and read, trying to understand everything you can. Listen when folks are speaking to hear how the language is used.

Challenge yourself by asking, “How would I say …” Then try to say it without learning aids. This way, you’re using spare time to do mental language training, converting passive vocabulary into active vocabulary and usable phrases.

About the Author

Mykel Hawke is a retired Special Forces combat commander and former Green Beret sergeant in medicine, communications, and intelligence with a bachelor’s in biology and a master’s in psychology. He holds black belts in Aikido and Judo, and has ratings in seven languages. www.mykelhawke.com

For more survival tips from Mykel Hawke, read our Survivalist Spotlight interview from Issue 23.

More From Issue 25

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 26

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 24

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


FAQ: Where to Find the Latest Issue of RECOIL OFFGRID

If you've been following the news lately, you may have heard that grocery store chain Kroger has decided to cease selling magazines which feature “assault weapons content”. With this announcement in mind and the upcoming release of RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 25 on March 30th, we decided now would be a good time to let you know about some of the many other places you can find our magazine. Fortunately, there's no shortage of options to choose from in either print or digital format.

Print Issues

Individual copies of our magazine can be found at many stores in the United States, Canada, and around the world. These include big-box retailers, bookstore chains, grocery stores, and gun stores. However, as noted above, some chains or individual locations may choose not to carry our publication. So, if you find you enjoy our articles, we'd encourage you to subscribe. This will ensure you receive each issue in the mail without having to search for it on newsstands. You can subscribe to RECOIL OFFGRID here.

Digital Issues

There are a myriad of ways to read our magazine instantly on your digital devices — desktop, laptop, tablet, smartphone, or E-reader.

Apple and Android device users can download our free app, which contains options to purchase current and previous issues:

You can also access RECOIL OFFGRID on these platforms:

Many of the individual articles from our magazine are also available for free right here on OFFGRIDweb.com. Check our Magazine section for a current list.

Back Issues

If you already have the latest issue but want copies of past issues of our magazine, check out our guide on Finding Back Issues of RECOIL OFFGRID.

Our Other Publications

For info on our other magazines — RECOIL, CONCEALMENT, and CARNIVORE — head over to this article on RECOILweb.


Emergency Communications: Make the Right Call

Landline phones and public telephone booths were once as common as typewriters, transistor radios, and corner mailboxes. Fast-forward 30 years, however, and everything about how we communicate has drastically changed. Today, pay phones and landline phones are on the endangered species list, while the use of cellular and Internet-based phone networks has exploded.
In January 2017, a report from the Pew Research Center concluded that the vast majority of Americans (95 percent) now own a cellphone of some kind. With so many cell phones, and the proliferation of high-speed internet communications, are pay phones and landline phones really just a relic of the past? And can the wired technology of the last century be of any practical use in an era dominated by smart devices and the ever-growing availability of wireless comms?

Pay phones and landline phones may be going the way of the dinosaurs, but if you know where to look, there’s still tremendous value to be found in this dated technology.

In this article, we discuss how the landline phones that many folks consider to be dead and buried may actually still have quite a bit more to offer, especially when the high-tech modern communications systems we rely on go dark.

The Wireless Revolution

It all started on April 3, 1973. On that date, Motorola engineer Martin Cooper made the world’s first mobile phone call. The historic call was reportedly made to Motorola’s main competitor at Bell Systems to let them know that Motorola had done it first — it must have been some conversation.

Ten years later, the world’s first mobile phone hit the market at a cost of $3,995 (roughly $5,800 in today’s money). Few people at that time could have ever imagined just how significant that first call really was, and how it set in motion the events that’d change everything about how we communicate.

Today, locating an actual landline phone or even a public pay phone is getting more and more difficult. Mobile phones and wireless devices are ubiquitous, and they've all but replaced their wired predecessors. However, that smartphone of yours may wind up as little more than a paperweight if the grid goes down.

The Achilles’ Heel

Technology can be a wondrous thing. It offers comfort, convenience, and a multitude of amazing features. But it can also foster a potentially dangerous dependency. Almost 45 years since that first mobile phone call, many people have been lulled into exclusive reliance on wireless communications and mobile devices for all of their daily needs. Smartphones are now used to not only make phone calls, but to send and receive all sorts of personal and financial data.

This undeniably convenient technology is often taken completely for granted and is expected to function flawlessly and without interruption, no matter the circumstances. Few people actually consider the possibility that cell service may one day be interrupted by a natural or manmade disaster. Fewer still have any backup plans should their wireless devices stop working. This unrealistic reliance tends to create a false sense of confidence and can potentially result in very serious consequences.

Bill Napier hurricane prep survival story storm flood weather 2v2

One recent example is Tropical Storm Harvey, which made landfall along the Texas coast on August 25, 2017, bringing winds in excess of 100 mph. According to the Federal Communications Commission (FCC), Harvey’s impact resulted in widespread cell blackouts, including the disruption of 17 emergency call centers and 320 cellular sites. In a few Texas counties, blackouts affected more than 80 percent of the cell sites. (In Aransas County, Texas, for example, 18 out of 19 cell sites reportedly went down.)

When the stakes are this high, overreliance on wireless communications can have serious consequences. Enter the landline.

What’s a Landline?

During the majority of the 20th century, the only way for most people to place or receive a telephone call was to use a landline phone — public or private, these devices could be found just about everywhere.

A landline telephone uses copper wiring to make and receive phone calls, as opposed to a cellular phone that uses radio waves. Landline phones can be hardwired (tethered) directly to the dedicated physical phone line or can use a cordless handset that’s connected wirelessly to a fixed base unit nearby that’s then hardwired into the landline.

In a nutshell, the landline between the home and the phone company consists of a pair of copper wires. The phone company supplies the power needed to operate the phone, assuming that the landline phone isn’t cordless. This is why landline phones often continue to work even during severe weather and widespread power outages — they have their own power supply. If the phone was cordless, then you still needed an independent power supply to power the operation of the corresponding base unit.

Today, many home phones (even the ones with wires) are connected not to an actual landline, but to the internet — a cheaper alternative. This is called Voice Over Internet Protocol (VoIP). Internet phone plans often provide access to both domestic and international calling options; you can keep your existing phone number. The phone operates in much the same way as its landline predecessors — you even get a dial tone. However, there’s one major difference — calls are placed over an internet connection. In order for the phone to work, you must have electricity and a fully functional internet connection in your home or office.

In comparison to cell phones and VoIP, a landline phone is almost bulletproof. Even if the grid power in your neighborhood goes down, the landline phone will continue to work so long as the telephone company's independent power source stays live; this is a huge advantage over a phone that relies on grid power and the internet. Public landline pay phones operate in much the same way.

Public Pay Phones – Pay As You Go

By some estimates, there are now fewer than 500,000 pay phones in the entire United States. While these relics of the 20th century are becoming a very rare sight, if you happen upon one, you should be prepared to pay.

Most of us are accustomed to dialing a number and getting connected with no concerns about costs or with making immediate payment. Public pay phones, such as those found in train stations, government buildings, and hotels, charge varying rates depending on the type of call you make and the length of the conversation. Some of these rates can be much more expensive than what a similar phone call would cost on a cellular phone, private landline, or internet-based phone. Make sure to confirm those costs before placing your call. To make payment for the call, there are a number of options:

Cash/coin — Pick up the receiver, drop in the coins, and dial the desired phone number when you hear the dial tone. (And hope the phone doesn’t eat your change.)

Credit cards — Can be used to make long-distance calls on landlines or public pay phones. Rates can be very expensive for these calls.

Prepaid calling cards — These cards are available for purchase for a flat fee and can be used to make long-distance calls using an access number and a PIN that’s printed on the back of the card.

Collect calls — Also known as a reverse-charge call, this is when the calling party requests that the person being called pays for the charges. This type of call requires approval from the paying party and can be expensive.

Toll-free numbers — Calls to toll-free numbers don’t require payment. Here’s a survival tip: Individuals can obtain a toll-free number for themselves (i.e., 888, 877, or 866). A toll-free number means others can call you for no cost to the caller. This may come in handy if family or other members of your inner circle are trying to reach you during a crisis.

Remember that you can always place an emergency call to “911” or to an operator “0” at no charge from any pay phone in the U.S.

Note: International calls from the U.S. work much the same. To phone another country, dial 011, the numerical code for the country you’re calling, and the phone number. Payment for these calls can be made by one of the methods shown above.

New Doesn’t Mean Better

According to data provided by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, (yes, CDC has been tracking phone ownership in the U.S. since 2004) landline phones are rapidly losing ground against mobile phones. The following table shows the dramatic shift that’s taken place in just the last 12 years.

20042016
U.S. Households with a landline phone:92.7%45.9%
U.S. Households with a cell phone only:5.0%50.8%

The numbers for younger Americans were even higher. “More than 70 percent of all adults aged 25 to 34 and of adults renting their homes were living in wireless-only households,” according to National Center for Health Statistics.

Public pay phones have fared no better. Since reaching a peak of 2.6 million in the mid 1990s, public pay phones now number fewer than 500,000 in the entire United States, according to the American Public Communications Council.

Survival Ready

Understanding the differences between landline and cellular phones makes it easy to see the distinct benefits and advantages. Since you most likely already have a cell phone, consider adding a landline phone to your survival plan for additional communications options. The following is a list of our top five tips for incorporating landline phones into your survival planning:

Add a landline phone. Call your local provider and find out if true landline service is still available in your area and how much it will cost. Remember you’ll also need a landline phone with a physical cord that’ll connect to the telephone wires coming into your home. Adding a cordless phone to a landline defeats the purpose of having a landline, since cordless phones still require electricity and/or a rechargeable battery to power the base unit.

Here’s where it gets tricky. Since internet phones are often plugged into traditional-looking phone jacks, it’s sometimes difficult to distinguish between a true landline and a VoIP phone. If you’re in doubt, call your service provider and ask, or look at your phone/internet bill. One sure way to find out is to cut all electrical power going into your home at the main circuit breaker panel. If the phone still works, even with all the power cut off, it’s a true landline.

If the power goes out and you’re using an internet phone service, you’re big-time SOL. A true landline has its own power from the phone company, which is used to energize the phone itself and to transmit the call signal. With an internet phone, you need electricity to operate the modem and the internet connection. It’s confusing because AT&T, for example, sets up your internet phone service so that it’s routed through the home’s modem, but it’s still wired into the telephone copper wires within the home.

To any casual observer, it’s difficult to tell that it’s not a landline since the phone plugs into the wall jacks and looks just like a normal landline phone. But if the power goes out — that’s it. You’re toast and can’t use the landline.

On a true landline, the phone company runs copper wires to your house that connect directly into the phone (without a modem to translate audio signals into data to transmit over the internet). This phone will work come hell or high water, as long as the signal from the phone company is intact and the copper wires aren’t damaged or cut. Although you may have an older home built with a phone jack that was once powered by a copper wire setup, that doesn’t necessarily mean your current phone system still operates through the original infrastructure. Again, call your home phone provider to check.

Get a community landline. If you can’t afford the monthly cost of a landline all by yourself, consider a community landline to be shared among neighbors. This arrangement allows various people to pool their resources and get one landline to be shared among all the paying neighbors. If the cost is split among a small group, it becomes way more affordable, while still providing benefits to the entire group.

Do your research. Do a search of your immediate area for public landline pay phones and mark the locations on a map. Knowing where these phones are in advance of a disaster will save you time and effort at a later date. Start your search in the likely places — train stations, libraries, airports, government buildings, bus terminals, and schools. Just make sure that these locations will be accessible during a crisis. Don’t forget to look in other independently owned places — bars, restaurants, gas stations, and convenience stores.

You can also do an internet search for “nearest pay phone” and orient to your address. Sometimes these searches can be outdated, so if you’re searching somewhere nearby, scout them out ahead of time to ensure they’re still in the location identified by your online search and fully functional.

AT&T or other providers own their pay phones. They place them based on how much profit they might make. It’s up to the phone company and property owner to keep them in service. In many cases, pay phones have been removed at city facilities over the years because they were no longer used — hence no profit. AT&T and other companies required a certain profit from the pay phones and forced property owners to pay if the phones on their property didn’t produce. Because of that, many property owners are removing them permanently.

Purchase a calling card. A calling card will allow you to use a public pay phone to make calls (local or long distance) without having to keep a pocket full of change or a credit card. A calling card can be useful even when using another person’s landline phone, since you can call anywhere without worrying about the charges.

Maintain a physical list of names and phone numbers. Speed dialing is efficient and very convenient, but it also makes it really easy not to have to remember phone numbers. Maintain a list of important telephone numbers and have various copies as backup. Like older phones themselves, using an address book to maintain current contact info or making regular prinouts will come in very handy when you need it.

More Bad News for Landline Phones

If you live in any of the 21 states (Alabama, Arkansas, California, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Nevada, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Ohio, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, and Wisconsin) where AT&T is the primary telephone service provider, you may soon need to say goodbye to your landline phone service.

Reportedly, AT&T has been spearheading efforts for legislation to end landline phone service in those markets. According to reports from the Chicago Tribune, lawmakers in 20 of these states have already voted to allow AT&T to end landline service in their respective states.

While AT&T will still need FCC approval before it can terminate landline service, there’s a good chance that landline customers in those states may soon face a choice between upgrading their service to more modern alternatives or face disconnection.

Opponents to AT&T’s efforts to eliminate landlines include groups like AARP (a nonprofit organization that helps people over 50 years of age). AARP representatives claim that the bill will be especially harmful to the elderly, and the organization says it intends to fight the law at the national level.

While it’s unclear how any of these efforts will affect the eventual outcome, or when actual landline service elimination may take place, maintaining an aging landline network is expensive, and it’s unlikely that other providers will step in to offer traditional landline services at anything close to affordable rates. Current landline service averages about $50 per month, depending on the market and the plan’s features and usage.

Travel Telephone Tips

If you go abroad without a mobile phone, you can still stay in touch using public telephones. Below is a summary of how using public phones may differ abroad and some of the standards you should know if you’re in a foreign country.

Even though public pay phones are also disappearing in other countries, many can still be found in train stations, post offices, and other government buildings.

The most cost-effective way to place long-distance and international calls is to use a prepaid calling card. These phone cards can be purchased at your destination from train stations, newsstands, and street concessions. Or you can buy them in the U.S. prior to traveling. Buying a calling card in the U.S. will allow you to familiarize yourself with the calling procedures and costs in advance, while avoiding possible scams.

Be advised that not all public pay phones in foreign countries accept coins. Be prepared to make payment with a calling card or a credit card.

If all else fails, remember that you can still try your luck with a public computer at an internet café or a hotel lobby. Using one of these devices, you can try to make an internet call, or use a Google or Skype account to log in and place your call. Planning ahead will save you time and money, and keep you connected. (Be very guarded with your personal information on public computers, especially with credit card information.) Another option is to subscribe to a satellite phone service, though this can be extremely expensive depending on your needs and destination. Like anything, your layers of protection and communication should be layered.

How a Landline Became My Lifeline

In late August 1992, Hurricane Andrew, a Category 5 Storm, slammed into South Florida. At the time I was living in the suburban community of Country Walk, just north of Homestead, Florida. My home, along with many others in the community, was totally destroyed by Andrew. The morning after the storm I walked out of the shell that had once been my home with nothing more than the clothes on my back.

As I emerged outside for the first time, I was struck by the sheer magnitude of the devastation. Nothing was spared — trees, utility poles, power lines, vehicles, and homes were all completely obliterated or heavily damaged.

I needed to get word to my friends and family that I was OK. But with so much damage and destruction, and no power, how would I communicate with the outside world? Today most people would no doubt reach for their cell phones and hope they had service. But in 1992, few average people had access to what was still very expensive technology.

Out of desperation and habit, I reached for my landline phone — in 1992 just about every home still had one. I was amazed to hear a dial tone; it was actually working. I didn’t know it at the time, but the reason the landline phone still worked in spite of the complete loss of power was because the phone company was still supplying it with electricity. I saw firsthand that landlines work even during a blackout.

I started to dial so fast that I got the number wrong and had to hang up and start again. When my cousin — who lived further north and had not been affected by Andrew — picked up on the other end, I was so happy I almost started to cry. With this landline I was able to reach out to friends and family to advise them of my condition. I could also obtain critical information about the road and infrastructure damage outside of the most severe impact zone — which I was currently standing in. With these crucial facts, I was able to plan an evacuation. After a few more calls, I agreed to stay with my cousin until I could make more permanent arrangements. The landline literally became my lifeline.

Conclusion

Cutting cords changed everything, and going back to devices tethered by wires seems unimaginable. And while few people will ever give up their mobile devices, having a landline phone adds a very useful and effective component to your overall survival strategy and planning. Stay safe and be prepared.

More From Issue 25

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 26

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 24

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Head-to-Head Review: SureFire EDCL1-T and G2Z-MV

A trustworthy flashlight is one of the most important elements in any every-day carry setup. It lets you illuminate dim corners during your daily routine, navigate dark streets or trails at night, and find your way to safety during power outages or inclement weather. For those of us who carry firearms, a good flashlight will also provide much-needed visibility for target identification in self-defense situations. And if you're unarmed, it can be used for hammer-fist strikes against attackers.

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Although we often hear claims to the contrary, the little LED on your cell phone is not adequate as a primary EDC light source. It may suffice for the most basic of tasks, but there's really no replacement for a high-quality dedicated flashlight in your pocket.

SureFire Flashlights

If you've ever shopped for an EDC flashlight, you've almost certainly encountered SureFire. For decades, the company has offered a wide range of handheld flashlights and weapon lights that are designed and built in the USA. These lights have become a staple among law enforcement officers, members of the military, and the civilian gun enthusiast community. They're certainly not the low-price leader in the market, but their reputation for reliability and rock-solid build quality is well-known.

In the last year, SureFire has launched several new pocket-sized flashlights. Two of these recent models caught our eye: the EDCL1-T and the G2Z-MV. Although the two lights exhibit some key differences, they also share many similarities, so we set out to compare them head-to-head. If you're looking for a new flashlight, especially a new SureFire, the results of our comparison should help you choose the EDC flashlight that's better for your needs.

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Similarities & Differences

Before we discuss the variations between these two lights, we'll look at some similarities. The SureFire EDCL1-T and G2Z-MV CombatLight were released in 2017 — March and November, respectively. Although the EDCL1-T (and its larger EDCL2-T sibling) are targeted at every-day carry, they're also clearly influenced by the tactical market. The G2Z also straddles this line, though it leans more towards tactical use.

Surefire EDCL1-T G2Z MV flashlight review edc light pocket carry ccw 2

We've listed the key specs in the table below:

EDCL1-TG2Z-MV
Max Output500 lumens800 lumens
Runtime at Full Output1 hour1.5 hours
Length4.5 inches4.75 inches
Bezel Diameter1.125 inches1.1 inches
Weight with Batteries3.3 ounces4.25 ounces
Batteries1 CR123A2 CR123A
MSRP$165$120

Although the lights have similar dimensions, the EDCL1-T is powered by a single CR123A lithium battery versus the two batteries in the G2Z. A two-battery EDCL2-T is available, but its larger 5.8-inch length and much higher 1,200-lumen output are less comparable to the G2Z. While it may seem unusual to compare a single-battery light to a dual-battery light, the rest of the specs are quite similar.

External Variations

Aside from the battery capacity we just mentioned, there are some prominent features that distinguish these lights. The EDCL1-T is a traditional SureFire construction, with a knurled aluminum body and the company's tried-and-true two-way pocket clip. If you've had another light in this category, such as the EB series, the EDCL1-T will look and feel familiar.

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On the other hand, the G2Z is made from high-impact Nitrolon polymer. This keeps it relatively light weight despite its size and battery capacity. The body has also been molded with SureFire's CombatGrip, which features a reduced-diameter midsection and conical grip ring with rubber lip. These features are clearly designed to improve retention for tactical use, either for handgun techniques or physical strikes.

Surefire EDCL1-T G2Z MV flashlight review edc light pocket carry ccw 4

Speaking of retention, that's another notable feature — or perhaps a lack thereof. The G2Z-MV doesn't have a pocket clip, and instead comes with a lanyard that can be attached to a free-spinning ring between the body and tail cap. The lanyard is intended to provide a means of pulling the light from a pocket; it also helps the user retain the light in the support hand while manipulating a weapon.

Let There Be Light

Switching these lights on reveals two different approaches to the concept of a tactical flashlight:

  • EDCL1-T – Press for momentary-on, twist for constant-on
  • G2Z-MV – Half-press for momentary, full-press and click for constant-on

Surefire EDCL1-T G2Z MV flashlight review edc light pocket carry ccw 1

The EDCL1-T does not feature a click tail cap, so the button on the end will require continuous pressure to keep the light activated in momentary mode. Alternatively, the user can twist the cap to enter constant-on mode. Also of note is the fact that this light has two brightness modes: 5-lumen low and 500-lumen high. A half-press of the switch or partial twist of the tail cap will enter this low-output mode.

The G2Z sticks with a more mainstream control scheme. It uses a tail cap switch that can be depressed partially for momentary mode or clicked fully for a constant light source. The single 800-lumen output mode its only function.

Beam Patterns

Yet again, these two lights diverge. The EDCL1-T uses SureFire's Total Internal Reflection (TIR) lens design for a center-heavy spotlight with plenty of long-range throw. Although this is its primary purpose, this beam is not a one-trick pony, since it also provides a broad wash of light outside the central hotspot. SureFire says this was an intentional choice to provide improved situational awareness — the spotlight stays on your target while the rest of the beam illuminates its surroundings.

The “MV” designation in the G2Z-MV's name indicates SureFire's MaxVision beam. This short proprietary reflector design is surrounded by a thick 14mm bezel, and shapes the 800 lumen output into a smooth and uniform wide-angle beam. This is intended to flood a large area with even light, yielding an expanded field of vision in dark rooms and corridors.

If you're not sure which beam configuration is best for your needs, we'd recommend reading the “How to Choose WeaponLights” article on SureFire's site. It explains the differences between these beams and the advantages of each.

Using the EDCL1-T

Surefire EDCL1-T G2Z MV flashlight review edc light pocket carry ccw 21

To evaluate this light, we carried it every day for a few weeks, using it frequently as part of our every-day carry gear. From an ergonomics standpoint we really liked the EDCL1-T — its length, diameter, and knurled texture make it feel just right in the hand. The machined aluminum body and strong two-way pocket clip have the virtually-indestructible feel we've come to expect from SureFire.

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This light's “gas pedal” switch allows the user to quickly cycle back and forth between low and high output by varying thumb pressure. We found that twisting the tail cap 180 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise can help bias the light towards one setting or the other — tightening it will make the light change to high output almost immediately, and loosening it will make high output accessible only through a very firm press.

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The non-click control scheme on this light is an acquired taste. If you find yourself using a flashlight primarily in short bursts, you'll probably like it. If you're used to a clicky tail cap switch, it may be an annoyance to have to twist the tail cap repeatedly for constant activation. Although we generally prefer click tail caps for EDC purposes, we found this control scheme to be a good balance between daily-use and tactical weaponlight applications.

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Despite what it may sound like on paper, the EDCL1-T's low-output brightness mode is quite useful. The 5-lumen output is perfect for close-up tasks like map-reading, and the TIR optic makes the most of these lumens. High-output mode seems to exceed its 500-lumen rating, since the flashlight's throw is so impressive. We can perceive a slight greenish tint to the light produced by the EDCL1-T, but this is by design. The human eye can detect more light in this part of the spectrum, so a cooler light would seem dimmer in comparison.

Using the G2Z-MV

Just as we did with the EDCL1-T, we carried this flashlight for a few weeks and used it daily. The fact that the G2Z has no pocket clip will certainly be off-putting to some users, but it's a necessary omission to allow for the raised CombatGrip design. Fortunately, dropping the light into a pocket with the lanyard protruding makes it almost as easy to access as if it were clipped in place. And if you're not a fan of the lanyard, it's easy to remove.

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The combination of the grip ring and lanyard keeps this light secure in your hand, whether you're running, shooting, or striking a foe with its metal bezel. We also liked the feel of the Nitrolon polymer body and its rubber insert. Despite its slightly larger size and additional battery, this construction keeps the G2Z-MV's weight within 1 ounce of the aluminum EDCL1-T. It also helps keep the price affordable.

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As for the MaxVision beam, it excels at its primary goal of illuminating a wide area. Its 800-lumen pure white output is perfect for clearing rooms or hallways, although it sometimes felt like too much light for close-up everyday tasks. As a combat light, the single brightness mode is fine, but the G2Z would have felt more well-rounded with a second low-output mode. A low setting would also extend the battery life, since this flashlight will burn through its two CR123As in an hour and a half.

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Head-to-Head Conclusions

Based on our impressions from carrying these lights, we'll share the pros and cons of each light below.

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EDCL1-T Pros:

  • TIR optic provides excellent long-range throw
  • Metal body and clip feel reassuringly durable
  • Compact enough to tuck into a pocket, but large enough to be used for defensive strikes

EDCL1-T Cons:

  • Twist-on tail cap requires two hands to activate in constant-on mode
  • Rather large for its single CR123A battery capacity

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G2Z-MV Pros:

  • MaxVision beam provides a large area of clear and bright illumination
  • CombatGrip design and wrist lanyard keep the light locked into your hand
  • Traditional click tail cap is easy to activate in momentary-on or constant-on mode

G2Z-MV Cons:

  • Lack of a pocket clip means the light sits loose in a pocket, and must be drawn by pulling the lanyard
  • Single 800-lumen output mode is too bright for close-up tasks

For more info on these flashlights, go to SureFire.com.


Infographic: A History of Future Fears & Predictions

At the very beginning of human society, our species mostly focused on the present — there was little need to dwell on what might happen the distant future when we faced starvation or violent death on a daily basis. But as society advanced, we began to have more time for luxuries such as wondering what might happen in 5, 10, 50, 100, or 1000 years.

While we should certainly prepare for the possibility of future catastrophes, we shouldn't be overconfident about their certainty.

While we should prepare for the possibility of future catastrophes, we shouldn't be overconfident about their...

Whether through data-driven estimations, science-fiction fantasies, or philosophical pondering, humans have made countless predictions about the future. However, many of these predictions were far from accurate. Some turned out to be excessively optimistic, imagining a problem-free utopia; others were excessively pessimistic, fearing humans would devolve as a result of ominous trends.

Some skeptics may accuse survivalists of falling into the pessimist category, but that shouldn't be the case. It's important that we draw the line between being ready for a variety of potential problems and being unreasonably certain that one specific doomsday scenario will occur.

The following infographic from BBC Capital shows a few of these future fears and predictions that never panned out for industry, tech, and society — or at least not to the extent that was anticipated. Understanding these predictions can help you retain perspective next time someone makes a claim about the future, regardless of whether it's certain doom or a perfect utopia. Click here to download a full-size version of this graphic.

BBC work future infographic hope hype technology science 2BBC work future infographic hope hype technology science 3BBC work future infographic hope hype technology science 4BBC work future infographic hope hype technology science 5


Buried Treasure: How to Build a Survival Cache

You fled your home several days ago when you received word of mass rioting heading your way. You haven’t eaten since losing your bug-out bag to a horde of attackers two days ago, but you managed to get away with a few cuts and bruises — and most importantly, your life. You’re cold, tired, hungry… and still at least 20 miles from your bug-out location.

As you crest the next hill, your mood improves as you see how close you are to that proverbial X that marks the spot. Within an hour, you’ve dug up one of the caches you squirreled away along your planned route, and if your upturn of luck continues, you’ll recover the rest and replenish your supplies. You now have water boiling over a fire, almost ready to pour into a bag of freeze-dried food. You’re warm, dry, and just about ready to tackle the last leg of your journey. Morale is improving, energy is returning, and gratitude is at an all-time high because you’d taken the time to bury these important items. Who knows what’s become of those who thought they’d never encounter this situation and never bothered to stash some lifesaving tools.

A cache, pronounced “cash,” not “cash-ay,” is simply a collection of gear and supplies you’ve hidden away for future use. For the last few decades, they’ve traditionally been made using PVC tubing of various diameters. I was first introduced to the concept back in the mid-1980s in a book by old-time survivalist Ragnar Benson.

Other common cache containers include ammo cans and 5-gallon plastic buckets. The popularity of geocaching has led to the creation of many types of purpose-built cache containers in every imaginable size and shape, from small ones the size of a 35mm film canister to caches resembling a log.

The size of the cache container dictates what you can stash inside. Fortunately, many of the high-priority items we’ll want to cache aren’t that large.

What Can a Survival Cache Contain?

Shelter

One of the first survival needs you may need to address is protection from the elements. If you read the news recently, we had snow in all 50 states at the same time. In other words, don’t overlook the importance of staying warm. Items such as an emergency blanket take up very little space in a cache. A bivvy may be beneficial as well. A wool hat, cold-weather gloves, and a shemagh will help if you’re forced to bug out in the cold months.

Space permitting, consider tossing in a small tarp and cordage, such as tarred bank line or paracord. This will allow you to construct an expedient shelter to protect you from rain, wind, or snow. An extra pair of socks may also prove to be something you never thought you’d be so excited to see again, especially if you’re desperate for warm, dry clothing.

Water

Use a two-pronged approach to meeting hydration needs with your cache. A variety of companies make water pouches. You often see these in first-aid kits; they’re small, easily storable, and filled with purified water. Most are rated to last a few years. Depending on the company’s ratings, the pouches usually won’t burst if they freeze, though you should be careful to bury your cache well below the frost line anyway.

Cache enough water pouches to prepare at least a couple of meals as well as to hydrate you and those you expect to be with you. Two pouches equal one cup, and there are 16 cups in a gallon. Health authorities commonly recommend eight 8-ounce glasses (or a ½ gallon) per person, each day. It may sound like a daunting task to cache this much water, but it’s all about prioritizing — you’ll be thankful you did if it means the difference between life and death.

In addition to the water pouches, the second prong to fulfill your hydration needs would be to cache a small water filter and collapsible container. Check out RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 15 for our buyer’s guide on water filters. A receptacle for water, like the Aqua-Pouch from Survival Resources, folds flat, and takes up almost no space in a cache, but will hold a full liter of water when deployed.

Food

Storing food items in a cache can be somewhat problematic as you can’t rotate the supply like you would at home or in your bug-out bag, but that doesn’t mean you’re totally without options. What you put in your cache might be there for years, and it’s up to you to be cognizant of when it was stored and how long it’ll last buried.

Stick with dehydrated or freeze-dried options. These require nothing more than hot water to prepare, and you can rehydrate the food right in the pouch. The amount of water needed is noted on the pouch, typically one or two cups. It isn’t absolutely necessary to use hot water. Cold water roughly doubles the time needed to rehydrate the food, but hot water does improve the taste considerably and won’t decrease your core temperature.

Depending on the size of your cache, a metal pot large enough to boil water as well as utensils could also be stored. Check out our portable utensil buyer’s guide in Issue 23.

Fire

Fire is life. You’ll need a way to heat the water for your freeze-dried vittles, stay warm, dry out, and just generally keep your morale up. Store multiple ways to light a fire. Options include good quality disposable lighters like BICs, a waterproof container of strike-anywhere matches, and a ferrocerium rod with a striker. Waterproof matches should also be considered. Bottom line — have multiple methods to start a fire stored in case one unexpectedly fails.

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Packing lighters in a sealed plastic bag will help reduce any chance of corrosion if your cache leaks, or having fuel from the lighters leak and affect other stored items.
In addition, pack tinder of your choice in a sealed container within the cache so it stays dry. Instafire is a great store-bought option, as are WetFire Cubes. A common DIY option is cotton balls smeared with petroleum jelly. You won’t want to deal with finding dry tinder if it’s pouring rain out.

Tools

White River Firecraft FC5 knife review 23

A good knife is one of your most valuable assets in a survival situation. Got a few? Stash one in each cache you create. Lighting is also beneficial, so think about storing some flashlights in your caches. Store the batteries separately from the light. Toss in a few chem lights as well. They glow very bright and don’t require batteries to operate; simply crack and shake.

First Aid

You, or someone with you, might very well be in rough shape when it comes time to access the cache. Adhesive bandages, gauze pads, and other basic first-aid items should store just fine. As for medications, if they’re kept cool and dry, most remedies will remain viable for many years, even after the stamped or printed expiration date on the package. Exceptions to this include nitroglycerin and insulin. For each medication you plan to include in the cache, do your homework and talk to a pharmacist or your doctor to determine just how long they’ll remain useful and under what conditions they’ll become toxic or ineffective.

You can also use a vacuum sealer (see Issue 10) to seal and protect items that you store in your cache. Items in vacuum sealed bags aren’t too pliable once they’re sealed, so give some prior thought to how you group your items and consider trimming bags to fit your items.

A cache is a great way to supplement your bug-out bag and other gear. Like most of our survival supplies, we hope we’ll never truly need them, but it’s reassuring to know it’s there.

Making Your DIY Survival Cache

Creating a PVC Pipe Storage Solution
Guide by Ryan Houtekamer

There are many reasons why you’d want to build a watertight storage container. Here we walk you through one method to make your own, small cache.

Tools and Parts Required

  • Tape
  • ABS or PVC pipe cement
  • Handsaw
  • Thick grease
  • 2x plastic bags
  • Test plug
  • Sandpaper
  • PVC or ABS pipe of required diameter
  • PVC or ABS pipe endcap
  • String/paracord
  • Desiccant

A few of the required materials are pictured above: 1. 1-foot ABS pipe 2. Desiccant package 3. ABS cement 4. Test Plug

Your first trip should be to the hardware store to pick up some ABS or PVC pipe. We chose 4-inch-diameter ABS. It has a fair amount of space to store supplies, is easy to bury, and fits easily in hand or a bag. You’ll also need an endcap, test plug, and some PVC or ABS cement.

Black tube is ABS; white is PVC. For all intents and purposes for building a cache, you can’t go wrong with either. ABS is said to be a bit stronger and able to better withstand cold, but it’s really more a matter of using what’s available and large enough to store the contents you wish to cache.

These pipe segments are the main components of your storage system. You can cut or have a length of pipe cut to your preferred size at the hardware store, but for this cache project, we focus on a 1-foot length of ABS pipe.

Buried treasure survival cache PVC pipe storage gear bug out emergency 5

You can cut it yourself using a chop saw or handsaw. The taller your blade, the straighter the cut you’ll get. A hacksaw will tend to wander when you make the cut, so try using a regular handsaw for wood. Once you’ve cut your pipe, clean the edges of the pipe to ensure it seats well. Run a fine-toothed file or a piece of sandpaper over the outside and inside edge to clean it up. This will get rid of any burrs from cutting it and allow you to get a better seal.

 

Next, test-fit your endcap onto the pipe and use tape to mark where it ends on the tube. This isn’t obligatory, but it ensures that you cover the entire area of overlap with adhesive. When taping something that you plan to remove, double over the end of the tape to make a small tab. This makes it much easier to pull off.

Take the cap off and run the brush from your can of cement around the inside edges of the cap. Do the same for the outside surface above the tape on the pipe. Don’t worry about getting adhesive on the tape since you’ll pull it off later. Remove the tape and slide the cap on. Give the cap a quarter turn, as this will help the adhesive spread out.

With the bottom capped off, wait until the cement has dried and start placing items inside the tube. The first thing you should put in the tube is the desiccant pack. This will help control any moisture inside the pipe. If you can’t procure a desiccant, you can improvise with a small sock filled with cat litter.

Buried treasure survival cache PVC pipe storage gear bug out emergency 11

This next part is optional, but we definitely recommend it. Place your items in a bag and wrap a loop of cord around them, which will make much easier to pull the items out of the tube later (think of how some tubes of survival matches are packaged). We also toss another desiccant pack in the bag. Never hurts to ensure your contents stay dry.

Buried treasure survival cache PVC pipe storage gear bug out emergency 12

With your desired items stuffed in the tube, we need to seal it from the elements. This is where the test plug comes in. You may have seen other caches constructed using a screw-on PVC endcap. The issue with this method that you might need a wrench to open it. The test plug uses a butterfly nut that you can screw with your fingers to get a seal.

Buried treasure survival cache PVC pipe storage gear bug out emergency 13

When you tighten the nut, it crushes the rubber seal, forcing it into the interior walls of the pipe. We recommend greasing up the metal parts heavily, though, to save you some grief later. For a bit of added security, take your last bag, toss it over the pipe, and then tape it to the pipe. This will keep any excess moisture from affecting the test plug and your metal parts. When you dig it up, you just need to tear through your bag and unscrew the top.

Selecting Cache Locations

Once you’ve built a cache, you need to find a home for it. One of the best locations, of course, is hidden on property you own. If you own the property, there’s nobody to complain about digging holes. Next on the list would be property owned by someone you know and trust and who has given you permission to place a cache there.

The next option is public land. Here’s the thing, though — legalities. There may be a nice park down the street that has an out-of-the-way corner you like or you might fancy the area right beneath the headstone of a deceased relative, but if there’s a big patch of dirt that looks like it was recently dug up, some city employees or groundskeepers who routinely landscape and service the area might check if someone put something there they shouldn’t.

The trick is to find places that won’t be disturbed or look like an obvious burial site. You wouldn’t put that hide-a-key that mimics a rock in an area where it’s the only rock and sticks out like a sore thumb, would you? Even if you have that perfect place next to a power pole in an easement that gets little foot traffic, you’re likely prohibited from digging in public locations. But like Ed Calderon (featured elsewhere in this issue) would say, “What you’re allowed to do and what you can do are two different things.”

Think it through and determine what direction you’ll likely head in an emergency and bury caches along the way in areas that make sense. Do your research on the ownership of the land, any proposed future construction, or any other circumstances that could put you in jeopardy if your belongings are found. If you cache a firearm, you can imagine what would happen if someone finds it. If you feel you have to store in locations that flirt with legal ramifications, do so at your own risk.

Also, don’t be like Vern in Stand By Me, with only a general idea of where your jar of pennies was buried. Keep a map (and copies of that map) in your bug-out bags, vehicles, in your wallet, and anyplace else you can think of to help you easily locate your caches. Practice finding them to help become more familiar with those locations in case of an emergency. Sometimes geography, foliage, landmarks, and various other surroundings change over time. Think of all the times you’ve returned to a location a year later to find that it looks quite a bit different. What good are caches if you can’t find them? Check your locations at regular intervals to ensure your survival trove is still there.

Storage Units: The Ultimate Cache?

We know what you’re thinking. Self-storage places are usually in the heart of the city, and that’s exactly where you don’t want to be if things are falling apart. Look a little harder, and you’ll probably find storage places that are off the beaten path but still readily accessible.

Many people use a storage unit at some point. Why not have it serve double duty? Choose a location that would be along your bug-out route and that isn’t likely to be a bad area to visit in a crisis. Along with your old dishes and photo albums, store some survival gear and supplies. Make extra sets of keys to keep in various places so you won’t have a problem accessing it. This isn’t a perfect solution for everyone, but for those who can make it work, it might be exactly what they need.

More From Issue 25

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 26

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 24

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Primitive Technology: Making Natural Lime Mortar

While the average hiker may walk right past valuable natural resources, any experienced outdoorsman or survival instructor can tell you that just about every natural material has potential uses. A single tree might yield fatwood or tinder fungus for fire-starting, pitch for glue or improvised chewing gum, needles for tea, edible mushrooms, or grubs for baiting traps. Even items we normally dispose of, such as food waste, can be repurposed or used for composting. Understanding the value of each resource and using them to their fullest will improve your ability to survive.

Primitive technology lime mortar brick shelter kiln fire 5

In his latest video, the Aussie survivalist behind Primitive Technology makes use of an item most of us would overlook: snail shells. Knowing that these shells are rich in calcium, he processes them into lime mortar. This material can be applied to seal gaps between stones or bricks, or it can be used on its own to construct shelters.

Primitive technology lime mortar brick shelter kiln fire 2

Lime mortar has been in use for more than 6,000 years, and was seen extensively in Ancient Egyptian, Roman, and Greek buildings. The durability of these structures has been attributed partially to the strength and weather-resistance of this substance. So if you're looking to build a long-term shelter from natural materials, lime mortar is a great choice.

Primitive technology lime mortar brick shelter kiln fire 3

Check out the video below to see Primitive Technology process snail shells into water-resistant mortar:

Although snail shells will suffice for creating small quantities of lime mortar, gathering and processing these shells is painstaking — the video description states as much. If you're not interested in gathering hundreds of snail shells, you can also use egg shells, seashells, or coral. However, the easiest way to make lime is to find a natural source of limestone in your area.


Victim Proof: Defending Against Sexual Assault & Abduction

Photos and self-defense sequences courtesy of Amber Staklinski and Ryan Hoover of Aperture Fight Focused.

Sixteen years ago while working as a police officer for Salt Lake City PD, I was involved in an intense and frantic search for a missing juvenile. It was the stuff of every parent’s nightmare. In the middle of the night, a cold and calculated psychopath crept through the window of a teenage girl’s bedroom while her family slept. He kidnapped her at knifepoint and, with the help of his wife, subjected her to nine months of intense mental, physical, and sexual abuse. Miraculously, the victim, Elizabeth Smart, was found and rescued. Most victims of such crimes aren’t so lucky.

Women and children continue to be some of the most vulnerable members of society to crimes of this nature. On average, 321,500 people are victims of rape and sexual assault in the United States. Eighty-two percent of juvenile victims are female. Ninety percent of adult victims are female. Females between the ages of 16 to 19 are four times more likely than the general population to be victims of rape, attempted rape, or sexual assault. Not all crimes perpetrated against women and children are sexual in nature either. The sociopathic nature of violent criminals is to target those they perceive to be easy targets. Another alarming statistic is that there are 21-million people trafficked for sexual exploitation worldwide each year, 96 percent of which are women and girls.

So what steps can be taken to become less vulnerable? How can we teach our loved ones to be less vulnerable?

Not being aware of your surroundings will make you a target. Trust your instincts about things that look out of place, like a stranger approaching you while you’re alone. Scan the area and remove yourself from the situation if you feel something poses a threat. The fight you’re never in is the fight you’ll never lose.

Let’s examine some of the conditions and environments in which crimes against women and children commonly take place:

Rapes and Sexual Assaults

Where:

  • 48% of victims were sleeping or performing another activity at home when attacked
  • 29% were traveling to work, school, or other places
  • 12% were working
  • 7% were attending school

Who: Statistically, it isn’t a masked man hiding in the bushes who commits most of these types of crimes. Sixty-six percent of rape victims know their assailant, while 48 percent are raped by a friend or acquaintance. Thirty percent are perpetrated by a complete stranger.

When: The majority of rapes, 43 percent, happen during the six hours between 6 p.m. and midnight. The second highest six-hour window is midnight to 6 a.m., when 24 percent of rapes happen. The remaining 33 percent happen during the 12-hour time frame from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Alcohol is commonly a factor in rapes and sexual assaults. It’s the most common substance utilized in drug-facilitated sexual assaults, considered the number-one date rape drug. Approximately 50 percent of sexual assault cases involve use of alcohol by the perpetrator, the victim, or both.

Self-Defense Demonstration #1

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1. A woman loses focus of her surroundings while buckling her daughter into her car seat.

Scenario 1-2.jpg

2. She’s grabbed around the waist from behind by the first attacker.

Scenario 1-3.jpg

3. She lowers her base and gets her hips away from the attacker, making it more difficult for him to lift her. As soon as she breaks his grip, she attacks with elbows to the head.

4. While continuing to strike and turning to face the attacker, she draws a concealed fixed blade knife from her waist.

5. She stays on the offensive, using the knife as an extension of her hand. She continues to strike with her empty hand while stabbing and slashing at the eyes, neck, and whatever targets she can reach with the knife.

Scenario 1-8.jpg

6. After doing sufficient damage to ward of the first attacker, she turns to face second one. She keeps her face covered and hands up to stay protected and continues fighting.

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7. The second attacker swings at her head. She defends the punch, using a reinforced high cover, while preparing to counter attack.

8. She counterattacks, punching with the pommel of the knife then stabbing and slashing until the second attacker flees.

Child Abductions

Where and When:

Child abductions are most commonly perpetrated or attempted when the victim is traveling to and from school, or school-related activities, between the hours of 2 and 7 p.m. This accounts for about 32 percent of these crimes.

In 70 percent of child abductions, the perpetrator was driving a vehicle, attempting to force the child into the vehicle. The average age of child abduction victims is 11, with 37 percent being between 10 and 14 years old.

These statistics help us understand the three themes that constantly reoccur when teaching about situational awareness: people, places, and things. Before learning physical self-defense techniques, the most important thing to understand is how to avoid being in a position where you’d ever need to use self-defense techniques.

Understanding statistics can help us know where, when, and how these types of crimes are committed, which in turn can help us with our general situational awareness — not making assumptions as to who is or isn’t capable of such crimes, and making sound decisions as to where we should or shouldn’t be, and what we should or should not be doing. It’s also important to train for situations in which no matter what steps we’ve taken regarding awareness and prevention, things sometimes just happen and we need to be prepared. At the end of the day, we can’t hide from the world, but we can prepare to defend against the bad people in it.

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Jeff Cooper’s color codes can be valuable when teaching general situational awareness and are worth further study. As mentioned earlier, people, places, and things are constant themes that come up with Cooper color codes Let’s examine each of these themes in depth:

People: Many people wrongly associate negativity with the term “profiling,” when in reality profiling is an essential component of situational awareness. While profiling based strictly on race is certainly wrong, race is one of many factors that contribute to an individual’s profile. Other things include the individual’s gender, age, size, hair style and color, actions, clothing, demeanor, accent/language, verbiage, personal belongings, and odor, to name a few.

Does the profile of a person in your general environment stand out for some reason? If so, you might shift from Condition Yellow — general awareness — into Condition Orange, or a heightened sense of awareness of one or more people around you. Do they look, act, speak, or smell like they’re intoxicated? Does their clothing suggest they could be concealing a weapon? Does their general demeanor suggest they’re nervous or paranoid?

Are they in a group, and if so how many? Are they in a place where they shouldn’t be, based on the location or time? Instead of just teaching “stranger danger” to your children, teach them to never approach a stranger’s vehicle if being lured under any circumstances. Practice creating “what-if” plans in your mind whenever you see someone who has caught your attention. Teach your children to do the same if approached by a stranger.

Places: Part of being situationally aware is being aware of what kinds of situations you should avoid. One thing I often say is “the fight you’ll always survive is the one you’ve been able to avoid.” Avoiding places that have a higher likelihood of getting you into trouble is always a good idea when possible. This might be a certain part of town, a particular nightclub or bar, or a party where you know bad people will be or are known to congregate. Teaching this principle to your children is essential. Not just where they shouldn’t be, but to avoid being alone or traveling isolated routes while walking to and from school.

Whenever you find yourself in unfamiliar environments, whether it be another part of town or another country, constantly be on the alert as to your surroundings. Assessing points of egress is also part of being familiar with your environment. Whenever possible, position yourself with your back to a wall with visibility of entrance points and proximity to points of egress. Take advantage of reflective windows or surfaces to see who’s behind you, or casually stop to act as though you’re checking your phone, if you feel you’re being followed to further assess a situation. Prepared but not paranoid.

Things: Being aware of things in your general environment can also highlight lifesaving information. It might be something suspicious, like an unattended bag or package in a subway station. It might be things in the hands of a stranger who’s walking toward you in a parking lot (or the inability to see what things he might have in his hands). When something suspicious catches your attention, be aware of what things you have in your hands or are in the general environment that can be used as weapons or distractions when hurled at an assailant’s face. Don’t get too attached to material things. If someone is stealing your wallet, purse, or car and you’re confident that’s all they want, give it to them. Don’t risk your life over replaceable things.

This may seem like a lot of information, so how can we condition ourselves to a state of perpetual vigilance? Try to make a game out of it. When in public, constantly practice running “what-if” scenarios through your mind. Not only is this a great way to become more aware of your surroundings, but assessing “what-if” scenarios can actually help you react much faster and more appropriately to a threat should it materialize, and as you’ve already identified it before it happened. To teach your children, make fun games out of it. When in a supermarket or shopping mall, ask them to point out the nearest exit. Where’s the car parked? The man who just walked by — what were in his hands? How many people were in the room we just left? Help them to pay attention to people, places, and things.

Self-Defense Demonstration #2

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1. Having recognized a potential threat, the mom sends her child to hide under the vehicle. She prepares the contents of her hands (a mug full of hot coffee) to be used as an improvised weapon.

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2. The attackers are coming at different angles, so in order to keep distance and create a distraction, she throws hot coffee into the face of the first attacker.

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3. Continuing to stay on the offensive, she turns to face the second attacker, ready to strike with the coffee mug.

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4. Using a backhand hammer type strike, she hits the second attacker in the jaw with the mug.

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5. She immediately follows with an oblique stomp kick to the attacker’s knee.

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6. Because the initial attacker is still a threat and blocking a safe entry to the vehicle, she uses her shin …

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7. … and boot to kick him in the head.

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8. Once the threat is no longer imminent, she locates her child and moves to safety while calling 911.

Tools for Self-Defense

Sometimes, no matter what steps you take to avoid a bad situation, you may find yourself fighting to defend yourself. If forced into a self-defense situation, there are a few things that statistically have proved to be effective:

Force multipliers. Weapons. In November last year, a female jogger in Utah was sexually assaulted while jogging during the early morning hours. She was carrying a knife for protection and was able to stab her attacker several times, forcing him to flee. When dealing with an attacker who’s larger than you, improvised weapons or weapons by design can not only be great equalizers, but they can turn the tide dramatically in the defender’s favor.

Distractions. Like weapons, these can be improvised or distraction devices by design and can buy you time to draw a weapon, deliver a counter-attack, or disengage from the situation. Examples of improvised distractions could be whatever you happen to be holding thrown into someone’s face. Examples of distraction devices could be a tactical light (strobe or otherwise), pepper spray, or a conductive electronic weapon (stun gun).

Martial arts. Fundamental, gross motor defensive techniques that tap into natural movement and athleticism can be easier to learn and retain at a functional level for the long term. The sequences illustrated here incorporate these principles. While we give you some ideas for self-defense to add to your tool belt, it’s impossible to build a solid base of functional skills from reading an article. You need to get out and train — even better under the tutelage of a competent and credible self-defense instructor. Locate and research martial arts schools in your area and take trial classes to find an instructor you like. Get involved in different groups and networks that host self-defense or martial arts seminars and workshops. Keep it fun, or it won’t last long.

Fending Off a Larger Attacker

Size and strength dynamics between prey and predator will always be a factor. But just like in the animal kingdom, it’s fully possible and plausible for much smaller prey to drive off their would-be attacker. Many predators aren’t willing to get hurt or risk getting caught, and will quickly flee once they realize they’ve bitten off more than they can chew. Research has shown some common patterns with children who escaped attempted abductions.

  1. They were physically proactive in their defense, including active resistance and running away when possible, as opposed to passive behavior.
  2. They were loud in addition to being physically aggressive, screaming and yelling to attract attention.

When being physically proactive, the more control a child can have in their aggression, the more successful they’ll be. Part of controlled aggression is to understand the concepts of weapons and targets. In the absence of improvised weapons, empty-handed weapons include kicks, punches, elbows, knees, clawing attacks, and biting. Sensitive targets on the body should be the focus of these weapons. For example:

  • Clawing at eyes with the fingers
  • Punches or elbows to the nose and throat
  • Knees or kicks to the groin, shins, or face, if it can be reached

Conclusion

The goal as always is survival, and even if the prospect of physically incapacitating a much larger attacker isn’t entirely realistic, just convincing them that they’ll be hurt or caught can be enough to send them packing.

Find ways to make yourself a hard target. Being within the most victimized demographic doesn’t mean you have to become a statistic. Don’t be of the mindset that it could never happen to you — that can put you in a vulnerable state of mind. Rather, be of the mindset that it’s only a matter of time until someone will try to victimize you, and do all you can to be prepared for that moment.

Sources for Statistics

About the Author

Jared Wihongi is a 16-year veteran law enforcement officer with considerable time serving in the SWAT community, a specialist in close-quarter combatives, and one of a handful of master-level instructors of the Filipino combat art Pekiti-Tirsia Kali. Moreover, Wihongi has more than a decade of experience instructing armed forces around the globe. He’s the tactical consultant and frontman for Browning’s Black Label line of knives. Learn more about him at: www.jaredwihongi.com

More From Issue 25

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 26

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 24

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.