Can Conventional RVs Work In A Bug-Out Scenario?

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What makes a truly great survival vehicle? If someone asked you this question, you might reply with qualities like a powerful engine, high ground clearance, a huge payload of supplies, bright auxiliary lights, winches, push bars, and possibly even armor plating. Although we can certainly agree that all these features could come in handy, they also have a tendency to make the vehicle in question conspicuous — and in a survival scenario, that's the last thing you want to be. If your ride's appearance screams, “I'm prepared for anything,” sooner or later someone less prepared will try to take it from you.

That said, consider a mobile survival platform that's common enough to blend in, spacious enough to be comfortable, and tough enough to use for years without repairs. Fortunately, there's a type of vehicle that's readily available and meets all these criteria — the recreational vehicle, or RV.

An RV will never be as stealthy as a motorcycle, or as capable off-road as a Jeep, but these homes-on-wheels are easy to find just about anywhere. Their living quarters provide plenty of room for gear and supplies, and best of all, anyone behind the wheel will end up looking more like a retiree on vacation than a hardened survival expert. So, don't discount that old motorhome in grandma's driveway just yet — it can be a real asset if you need to bug out.

A recreational vehicle is simply a motor vehicle with an attached living space. A wide range of vehicles can be considered RVs, from massive tour-bus-sized motor coaches to tiny pop-up trailers. There are three main categories of RV: motorhomes, trailers, and campers. Each class of RV has its own pros and cons to consider, so read on to determine which best fits your needs.

Type 1: Motorhomes

The first and most common type of RV is the motorhome. These vehicles are characterized by the powertrain and living quarters integrated together into a single package. Many motorhomes simply replace the rear section of a truck or van's body with living quarters, retaining the original chassis, engine, and driving position. These vehicles are known as Class C or midsize motorhomes, and can be identified by an extended section over the cab that often contains a bed.

The second category of motorhomes is the smallest, known as Class B (also called camper vans or conversion vans). These vehicles don't feature an extended section over the cab, resulting in a lower-profile roof. Often, Class-B motorhomes are based on passenger vans, like the Mercedes-Benz Sprinter, Ford E-Series, or Chevrolet Express. The biggest upside to this design is its appearance — some Class-B motorhomes aren't easily recognizable as RVs, and therefore avoid unwanted attention in a survival scenario.

From left: The Winnebago View: Note the extended sleeping area directly above the vehicle's cab, this identifies as a Class-C motorhome. The Winnebago Era, a Class-B motorhome based on a Mercedes Sprinter van. Notice the low-profile roof and lack of sleeping area above the cab. The Winnebago Grand Tour: Class-A motorhomes are the largest and most luxurious money can buy, and often feature amenities similar to a high-end hotel room.

From left: The Winnebago View: Note the extended sleeping area directly above the vehicle's cab, this identifies...

Finally, Class-A “integrated” motorhomes are built from the ground up, with driving position inside the living area. These mega-motorhomes are typically larger, feature a vertical windshield, and appear more similar to a commercial bus than to a passenger car. Features can include washer/dryer sets, expandable rooms, and even underside storage compartments for motorcycles or ATVs. As cool as that sounds, due to their cumbersome nature and noticeable appearance, Class-A motorhomes are better suited to transporting rock stars and celebrities than surviving the apocalypse. If you're behind the wheel of one of these giants, most onlookers will assume it has lots of desirable resources inside, and that's not a good thing in a dangerous situation.

From a cost standpoint, motorhomes run the gamut from tens of thousands to several million dollars. In a survival scenario, keeping a low profile is more important than having a fancy built-in jacuzzi or movie theater, so it's probably wise to avoid the more luxurious and expensive models. In addition, large Class-A motorhomes will be more difficult to maneuver and much more conspicuous on the road, so we recommend sticking to the smaller Class B and C motorhomes when SHTF.

Here's the interior of the Winnebango Grand Tour. This palace on wheels will make you forget you ever evacuated your neighborhood...but it might not be the most practical for long-term survival.

Here's the interior of the Winnebango Grand Tour. This palace on wheels will make you forget you ever evacuated...

Pros:

  • The most common form of RV
  • Spacious and luxurious with many available amenities
  • Wide variety of sizes and configurations to choose from
  • Moves under its own power, just hop in and hit the gas

Cons:

  • The most expensive form of RV
  • Larger models can draw unwanted attention and be difficult to maneuver
  • May require specialty parts for repairs; most require diesel fuel
  • Usually two-wheel drive with poor off-road performance (with the exception of expedition vehicles)

Type 2: Trailerstrailers

The second type of RV is the travel trailer or caravan. Just as the name implies, travel trailers are living quarters that attach to a car or truck via a tow hitch, and can only move when towed. These are the oldest form of RV, dating back to the 1920s, and are relatively mechanically simple due to their dependence on a tow vehicle.

Travel trailers can be much smaller than a compact car, nearly as big as a city bus, or anywhere in between. Smaller trailers can be towed by an ordinary car, while the larger 30- to 40-foot trailers may require a purpose-built tow rig. For the purposes of survival, small and mid-size trailers shorter than 25 feet in length are ideal, as they can be towed by common pickups and SUVs.

Trailers are highly versatile and provide many options, such as the vehicle storage space of this Jayco Octane toy hauler.

Trailers are highly versatile and provide many options, such as the vehicle storage space of this Jayco Octane toy...

Within the trailer category, there are several sub-groups to be aware of. Pop-ups, or expandable trailers, are handy for survival due to their low profile on the road and abundance of space when parked. Teardrops are small, aerodynamic, and lightweight (some can even be towed by a motorcycle). Toy haulers feature a fold-down rear ramp and storage space for ATVs or motorcycles. Finally, fifth-wheel trailers attach to an in-bed hitch (much like that of a semi truck) instead of a bumper hitch, resulting in improved on-road stability. However, fifth-wheel trailers are often larger and require specialized tow vehicles, so they may be less than ideal for survival.

The biggest advantage of a trailer is its ability to be disconnected from the tow vehicle. This enables establishing a home base far away from prying eyes, leaving the area in your vehicle to go on supply runs, and returning to your living quarters unnoticed. It's wise not to put all your eggs in one basket, and travel trailers make this easier than it would be in any other type of RV.

The Jayco Jay Series Sport, a compact pop-up trailer that also features pop-out expandable sleeping areas.

The Jayco Jay Series Sport, a compact pop-up trailer that also features pop-out expandable sleeping areas.

Pros:

    • Can be easily disconnected from your vehicle
    • Small, lightweight trailers provide excellent mobility
    • Can be towed by a variety of cars, trucks, and vans
    • More capable off-road than most motorhomes

Cons:

      • Typically less luxurious and spacious than motorhomes
      • Harder to move than motorhomes; requires a tow vehicle with a hitch
      • May be difficult to maneuver for drivers with no towing experience
      • Not all trailers have bathrooms or running water; may require an external generator for electricity

Type 3: Campers

The third type of RV is the camper. Also called slide-in, dismountable, or truck campers, these RVs are removable living quarters that sit inside the bed of an ordinary pickup truck. Campers benefit from the compact size of trailers, but feature even better mobility since they don't require towing experience — if you can drive a regular pickup truck, you can drive a truck with a camper. Like trailers, truck campers can also be removed from your vehicle temporarily, although it will take longer than simply unhitching a trailer. In order to dismount a truck camper, it must be jacked up using four corner jacks, then any turnbuckles or tie-downs must be disconnected before the truck can drive out from under the camper.

The type of camper you can use is typically determined by the type of truck you have access to. If you have a 1/2-ton short-bed truck with a gas engine, your options will be limited to smaller campers, but if you have a 3/4- or 1-ton truck with a longbed and diesel engine, there will be many more choices available. Modern truck campers have most of the amenities of a comparable motorhome or trailer, including refrigerators, ovens, bathrooms, and showers. Some campers feature pop-up or expandable sections that provide extra space when parked and a lower profile on the road.

In a survival situation, an ordinary 4×4 diesel truck with a compact pop-up camper would be an excellent choice. This setup won't draw as much attention on the roads as other RVs, is highly capable off-road, and will provide more than enough space for two adults and their supplies. It won't be as spacious as a motorhome, or as modular as a trailer, but it's certainly a nice happy medium.

From top: A pop-up truck camper, the Palomino Real-Lite. The expandable top section provides enough height to stand, and additional space for sleeping quarters when raised. An example of a truck camper, the Palomino Backpack Edition. Note the four corner jacks, which are used to mount or dismount the camper from the truck.

From top: A pop-up truck camper, the Palomino Real-Lite. The expandable top section provides enough height to stand,...

Pros:

      • Easy to transport and highly maneuverable
      • Extremely capable off-road when paired with a 4×4 pickup
      • Can be removed from your vehicle, but not as easily as a trailer
      • Features like pop-up tops can create a low-visual profile, not much larger than a bed cap or shell

Cons:

      • Requires a pickup truck and must match the truck's bed length and weight capacity
      • Less spacious than almost all motorhomes and most trailers
      • Larger campers may require heavy-duty suspension and brake upgrades
      • May be unavailable for small or light-duty trucks

Conclusions

Given these three categories of RVs, you must choose what's best for your location and conditions. For example, a large Class-A motorhome might be fine in the flat, sparsely populated Nevada desert. However, it would be a terrible choice for the densely packed streets of New York or Chicago, where a compact car with a teardrop trailer might fare better. If you need to survive in the tough terrain of the Sierra Nevada mountains, an expedition vehicle or 4×4 truck with a slide-in camper would probably serve you best.

You must also take into consideration the number of occupants and quantity of supplies you'll be transporting. A small trailer or camper might serve one person well, but if you have a large family, look into motorhomes or large trailers. Regarding supplies, extra gear can be strapped to your vehicle's roof, stored in the vehicle's cabin, or packed creatively in the living area itself. Much like building a bug-out bag or in-home emergency supply cache, you need to decide a time frame to plan for, and pack supplies accordingly.

Consider this guide a primer on choosing an RV for survival — there's still plenty to learn before you actually bring one home. Some might say the common RV is too obvious a choice for a bug-out vehicle, but we'd say it's an obvious choice for a reason. Someday, one of these versatile vehicles might make your life on the road a whole lot easier.relaxing-in-hammock-by-rv

Expedition Vehicles

Taking the Path Less Traveled

Aside from the three classes of motorhomes listed in the main story, there's an important sub-group to be aware of: expedition vehicles, or off-road motorhomes. These vehicles are designed specifically with extreme conditions in mind, and often have heavy-duty suspensions, large tires, four-wheel drive, and other off-road-oriented upgrades. If you need to go just about anywhere, be totally self-reliant, and truly prepare for the worst, you'll want one of these monsters.

expedition-rv

Expedition vehicles can fall into any of the above classes, and range from simple living quarters placed on the back of a lifted pickup truck to purpose-built behemoths with six- or eight-wheel drive. However, given this article's premise of staying inconspicuous, expedition vehicles may not necessarily be a wise choice. First of all, they tend to be much more expensive than a traditional motorhome and typically must be special-ordered from the manufacturer, so they're not easy to obtain. Secondly, they're definitely going to draw more attention than an ordinary motorhome as you roar down the road on huge mud tires.

So, in a bug-out scenario where you're heading into isolated wilderness for an extended period, an expedition vehicle would be ideal. However, in a situation where you may need to frequently use public roads or leave your vehicle exposed to gather supplies, these vehicles may cause more problems than they solve.

DIY Locking Cable Snares

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One of the simplest and most effective techniques for catching small game is the snare. Traditionally, these primitive traps would be made from braided plant fibers or sinew, but today we're able to create strong and lightweight snares from metal wire or cable. As long as you're willing to collect a few materials from your local hardware store, you can assemble several of these locking cable snares in no time.

Locking cable snare 3

A cable snare like this one is compact, light, and can hold hundreds of pounds of weight.

Before we begin, it's worth mentioning that cable snares are often illegal for hunting purposes, and also tend to be a less humane way of killing game than legal hunting methods. So, we would only advise you to use these snares in a survival situation, to provide food when you need it most. However, they're a great resource to have in your bag in case SHTF, and they don't weigh much or take up much space.

Locking cable snare 1

Old copper pennies can be drilled and bent to form a lock for the snare.

Youtube channel Bushcraft Basics shows how to make one of these snares in the video below:

Here's a summary of the materials used in the video, which you can use as a checklist:

  1. 7×7 stainless steel cable, 1/16″ diameter (approximately 3 feet per snare)
  2. 1/16″ copper end stops, 1/16″ oval swage fittings, and a swage crimping tool (or small metal nuts and a vise or press)
  3. 1981 or older 95% copper pennies (or 14 gauge/2mm copper sheet)
  4. Cable cutters
  5. Drill and 3/32″ drill bit (or other bit slightly larger than 1/16″)
  6. Hammer and vise to bend pennies

Locking cable snare 2

Check out the video above for a step-by-step assembly of the snares. It's very straightforward, and shouldn't take more than a few minutes to build each snare once you have the materials listed above. For alternate methods of providing survival food, check out this video about willow fish baskets and this infographic on foraging for edible plants.

Survive, Evade, Resist & Escape

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The little voice in the back of your mind has always worried that this day would come, and it finally has. As you glance back at the city skyline burning in your wake, you hear the gunshots, blood-curdling screams, and smashing of glass. You wonder nervously if your family is safe, as you egress from this dying metropolis. All the gear and food you've stored, all the hours spent training and improving, and here you are — hundreds of miles away from your hometown and your family, on a business trip with a group of people you barely know.

You pass an abandoned police car, painfully glancing inside at the empty rifle rack. The sounds of gunfire grow closer, and your group picks up the pace. People are going feral, primitive. The menacing armed men you spied back there seem to be done with their current victims, and now they're hunting the people in tailored suits and $500 loafers who seem utterly defenseless: you and your colleagues.

OK, so this scenario is fictional. But it's not entirely unrealistic. Whether it's caused by civil unrest, a terrorist attack, an invading foreign army, or a natural disaster, society can go sideways really fast. That's why we jumped when we got an industry-exclusive invite to participate in 88 Tactical's SERE (survive, evade, resist, and escape) Level 1 Course. Based in Nebraska, this elite training organization provides instruction to civilians, law enforcement, and military personnel on a whole range of survival knowledge, from women's self-defense and carrying a concealed weapon to bushcraft and tactical medicine. The two-day class made us feel that, should the aforementioned human-prey situation strike, we could not only survive it, but also make it home in one piece.

So, we've absorbed the loads of information, tactics, and experience from the 88 Tactical class and distilled it here, into the top five lessons learned. Read on to find out.

Lesson 1 You Are Only As Strong As Your Team

In the corporate world, there are good leaders and there are bad leaders. The difference is that during a crisis or in a post-crisis world, the latter could get you killed — whether through negligence or straight incompetence. So it goes without saying that it's vitally important that you pick the right member to assume the role. It's wise to avoid those who are overeager to take the helm, and odds are the best pick will be the member who's already universally respected. This person will need to keep everyone on track, issue responsibilities and tasks, and hold everyone accountable for their actions.

sere-class-group-in-confined-space

That's why the assigning of leaders is one of the first tasks 88 Tactical gives to students in its SERE class, and it will affect the remainder of the training. This decision falls on the group to pick the alpha dog. But that doesn't necessarily mean that he or she has to be a tyrant. If a leader's style is too heavy handed, members of the group might mutiny or fracture off on their own. Many collective decisions and plans can be made in an open forum, with all contributing to the subject. This is a smart way to make everyone feel appreciated and part of the new family. It also results in a stronger plan, one which everyone believes and is invested in. However, in the end, it should be the appointed leader who assigns tasks and has the final say. This is the burden of leadership, and they will be held accountable for their actions the same as the rest of your group.

Who would you follow into a dark abandoned building on a desperate scavenging run? Picking the leader of your survival group is more than just voting for the loudest, strongest, or smartest person. It's chosing someone who knows when to deliberate, when to delegate, and when to take action.

Who would you follow into a dark abandoned building on a desperate scavenging run? Picking the leader of your survival...

As in the military, or in certain sports, it's all about “the team.” It becomes your own micro-culture, with an evolving set of unique customs and values. It has been said that as humans, our values are shaped by our environment. When a person is exposed to a new environment, their values change accordingly to that setting. If your Prius-and-Frappuccino world has turned into the end of the days, expect your perspective on things to change. They'll change to coincide with those of your entire group, or you'll leave. Group absolution is a timeless aspect of being human, so don't be surprised when you realize how primitive things become.

Lesson 2 Sleep Is A Luxury…That'll Get You Killed

You aren't going to sleep, and if you do it's going to get you killed. This is a fact that many soldiers already know, but it's an important lesson that runs the entire length of the 88 Tactical course. In a survival situation, it's likely that you'll end up on foot, otherwise you would simply drive yourself out of danger in the first place. All the energy expended hiking will leave you spent at the end of the day, but that doesn't mean you get to punch out when the sun sets.

The 88 Tactical SERE class simulates a raid on our camp.

The 88 Tactical SERE class simulates a raid on our camp.

Historically, many armies have attacked at night or close to dawn. This hasn't changed, as some of America's top commandos continue to use this proven tactic to gain an upper hand.

You will need to have your group post a nightlong watch, which rotates so everyone gets some rest. Maintaining security at all times is critical. Having a nice big tent and comfy sleeping bag seems nice, but kicking your boots off and crawling into the bag is a great way to get your throat slit in your slumber. If there are men actively hunting you who wish to visit harm upon you, why would you switch off your defenses as darkness descends? You simply cannot, and having your lookout fall asleep while on watch can be a death sentence to the entire group.

The cadre at 88 Tactical teaches their students how to construct simple, effective shelters that can be erected and torn down in a few minutes. The use of tarp shelters allows for a lightweight, versatile, and effective means of making camp. In an emergency, they can be cut down and stowed on the run or abandoned completely.

When you're on the run, a tarp is an effective shelter that's lightweight, quick to assemble, and expendable if need be.

When you're on the run, a tarp is an effective shelter that's lightweight, quick to assemble, and...

Lesson 3 Good Guys Get Hurt, Too

We all want to smite the bad guys and bring them a little payback. However tempting this might be, avoiding conflict is your best bet. Tangling with mixed bands of looters, marauders, and violent gangs is how you'll lose people in your group.

When someone gets hurt, where will you take them? When there are no more ambulances, hospitals, or doctors to be found, you'll be limited to what's in your medical bag or first-aid kit. Fighting for resources or in self-defense will likely result in severe trauma, which might be otherwise survivable in times of normalcy. But without modern medicine, many injuries will likely prove fatal here in the “after.” That's not to say that primitive medicine can't work if you have the knowledge and supplies, but we all want to avoid Civil-War-era medicine at all costs. Having a med kit, and knowing how to use it, is as important as having a firearm.

Attempting to rescue a

Attempting to rescue a “friend” via water.

You have to understand that bad things can happen to everyone, and that needs to be planned for. A careless slip of a knife in camp, a bad fall down a ravine, or a gunshot wound to the thigh can threaten your life instantly. The medical aspect of the SERE course is one of the most important lessons many of the students walk away with. Paired with the firearms portion of the class, this is often the first exposure many have to administering care under fire and handling triage.

Lesson 4 A Good Plan Today Is Better Than A Perfect Plan Tomorrow

Indecision, arguing, or simple lack of action will anchor you and your team when things need to be moving along. Sitting around the camp talking about getting food doesn't actually put it in your belly, but not discussing the plan in full detail so all members understand it is foolish. Rushing into a situation can get you killed, but so can avoiding all risk. Everything you do, or fail to do, can get you killed.

But by making well thought-out decisions, this risk can be mitigated significantly. This is where your good leaders will excel, and individual skills will shine. (See lesson 1.)

Everyone in your survival group needs to understand the plan - and what to do when it goes south.

Everyone in your survival group needs to understand the plan – and what to do when it goes south.

Remember that all your teammates have skillsets that are unique to their old jobs and lifestyles, and this is a huge advantage to the group. If you have a mechanical engineer in your ranks, have him take the lead on building a protective structure or rope bridge. If you have an ER nurse, he will have insight on building a medical plan that others will not. Lastly, just because a guy hangs drywall for a living now doesn't mean he forgot everything he learned during his yearlong deployment to Afghanistan in the National Guard.

Take all of this in, share perspectives, and formulate good, simple, and easy-to-execute plans. Make your subject-matter experts the “project managers” of their specialty. Use this knowledge and experience to the fullest advantage, and incorporate it into all of your plans.

Lesson 5 Plan For Your Plan To Not Work

Speaking of plans, there is one lesson you are guaranteed to learn at the 88 Tactical's SERE class that will resound for the rest of your life. It's a universal truth that many simply refuse to acknowledge: A plan is just a list of things that aren't going to happen.

People are creatures of habit. We like clear-cut plans, schedules, and routines. Without the safety of this structure, people will lose faith in society extremely fast. Disorder and chaos won't be far behind. The ability to think, problem solve, and act under pressure are important — and equally hard to teach. As Darwin showed us, adaptation to whatever is thrown at you will likely be the key to your survival. Fortunately for us, our ancestors knew how to adapt. After all, we're still walking the earth.

Not for the faint of heat: Sudents at 88 Tactical's SERE class get to experience what it's like to get captured and detained.

Not for the faint of heat: Sudents at 88 Tactical's SERE class get to experience what it's like to get...

Understand that things are not going to go as planned, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't take the time to craft them, or create your own order. If you lose a member of your group to a kidnapping, what will you do? If it was a particularly unpopular member of the group, well that's one thing…but what if it's the most loved and trusted? The resolve of the team should require your group to do the best they can to recover him. Maybe the new strategy is to trade supplies with the captors and use verbal jiu-jitsu. Or maybe an early morning surprise raid is the best option. You might not know until it happens, and the plan will have to be changed on the move.

Once you come to terms with this, it will only help you. You need to learn to be as fluid as water and as hard as rock.

sere-class-couple-of-people-with-their-heads-covered

Conclusion

The best tool you can give yourself for a crisis is knowledge, and that's exactly what the 88 Tactical's SERE Level 1 Course can give you. You earn this knowledge through a series of challenging tasks and missions, and because they are earned through difficulty, they'll likely stick in your memory for years to come.

sere-class-captured-and-detained

The class is set up to challenge the students mentally and physically, just as a real-life scenario would. The difference is that by attending courses such as this you can actually learn in a relatively safe environment some very important skills, such as bushcraft, rope work, small-unit tactics, and team building. Don't be surprised if you walk away with a few new lifelong friends from attending the class. It's an amazingly empowering thing to do things you never thought you could, while being forged into a solid, cohesive team of trusted friends.

When the unthinkable happens, no one rises to the occasion — you are reduced to your level of training and preparedness. Similarly, a crisis doesn't make heroes or cowards of people; it simply reveals their true nature. The more a person refines their character and skill ahead of time, the more likely they are to survive.

The Mentor

Terry Barney

Terry Barney

As a law-enforcement vet with more than 14 years of experience, Shea Degan founded 88 Tactical in 2010 after seeing a need for highly adaptive training courses taught by experts with real-life experience using the latest technology on state-of-the-art facilities.

In a short five years or so, Degan's attracted an impressive and diverse collection of instructors, from current Army Special Forces to former Navy SEALs. He and his team believe in having the right person for the right job, and for this reason the SERE Level 1 Course has many skills being taught by Terry Barney. He's an accomplished SERE and bushcraft instructor, with his experience dating back to his days in the military. A former U.S. Air Force survival instructor, Terry Barney taught hundreds of DOD personnel before moving on to do the same in the private sector with 88 Tactical. His love of the outdoors led him to become a respected backcountry guide with both pack and paddle, as well as volunteer his time as winter camping instructor for the Boy Scouts of America.

Barney has spent decades honing his diverse skillsets, and his knowledge and humorous approach to teaching made him a favorite of many who attended the course we took. His big brother/mentor approach to instruction brings a humble vibe to a man who has mastered high angle rope rescue, rescue diving, emergency medicine as a paramedic, and a whole slew of other dirty, dangerous jobs.

In 2010, Barney opened the Midwest School of Bushcraft. He has traveled to many parts of the country and has trained hundreds of people. He has a popular YouTube channel (under the username “IA Woodsman”) and is an integral part of 88 Tactical's instructor cadre.

http://www.88tactical.com
http://www.youtube.com/user/iawoodsman

F*ck the Ruck

You know that go-bag you've meticulously stuffed full of expensive gear? Leave it at home. Sometimes less is more, especially when rucking the wooded hills of Nebraska. Many students will bring 40 pounds or more of kit to the course, most of which remains dead weight that the instructors will happily let you carry. So, what do you need to be successful in a changing environment of urban chaos to wooded danger? Check out the list below for a starting point:

  • A reliable fixed-blade knife or robust folder
  • Firesteel, the bigger the better. Leave the garbage magnesium-bar types alone.
  • Footwear you'd want to wear for the rest of your life, over different terrains and through different climates
  • A good-quality, mid-sized individual tarp made of nylon
  • As much 550 parachute cord as you can carry
  • A metal water vessel you can boil water in, such as the Heavy Cover canteen
  • A poncho liner or blanket for cold nights and shelter
  • Pair of good gloves. They don't have to be fancy — even leather farm gloves work great.
  • Gore-Tex jacket and warming layers, including a spare set of socks

Packception: Propper Packable Bags

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Have you ever gone on a trip with a tightly-packed backpack or suitcase, only to wish you had more storage space for the return trip? It's a common issue that can be frustrating if you're on vacation or a business trip. However, in a survival situation, running out of room for supplies can be a much more serious issue. If you're out scavenging, and you come across a large cache of useful resources, you might be left with a tough decision: ditch some of your existing gear, or leave behind the valuable items you just found.

mechanix-wear-gear-bag-top-open

If your bag is already almost full to the brim, cramming in more gear can be a difficult task.

Fortunately, now there's a solution from Propper that lets you expand your storage space on the go. It's simple: a bag within a bag. Cue the “BWAHHH” sound effect from Inception, because we're about to go deeper.

Propper has released two new packable bags. First, there's the Packable Backpack, with five separate compartments for an MSRP of only $35. There's also a Packable Duffle bag, with a large main compartment and two smaller side compartments, which is available for an MSRP of $40. Either bag can be had in black, coyote tan, or olive green.

Both Propper packable bags are constructed of lightweight micro ripstop nylon, and feature a durable water repellent finish. When not in use, each bag can be stored in its built-in pouch, which compresses down to 8″ x 7″ x 1″. We could see this design being useful for traveling with a backpack in your carry-on suitcase, or for stowing a spare bag in your vehicle or office.

For more information on these Propper packable bags, visit Propper.com.

 

Down and Dirty: RECOIL Real-World EDC Loadouts

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Time for a reality check: many of the every-day carry loadouts you'll find on Instagram, Facebook, and forums are thinly-veiled gear porn. Now, hold your horses, there's nothing wrong with that. We love drooling over high-end gear that looks like it just came out of the box, and seeing all the creative gear pairings people come up with. However, a large portion of these EDC kits are not exactly what we'd call realistic.

Legit-EDC-RECOILWEB-8

When you use a tool enough, it's going to get dirty and scratched. That's a fact of life.

RECOIL staff summarized this “fantasy EDC” cliche nicely:

“Here’s my [insert pistol brand here] in a [choose holster type here], backup gun on my ankle, mini-IFAK on my other ankle, beard comb though I’m clean shaven ‘cuz someone might need it, Zippo lighter though I don’t smoke ‘cuz someone might need it, folding knife in right back pocket, fixed blade in scout style crossdraw sheath, wallet, task light clipped to my left pocket, tactical light down inside where no one can see it, watch with man-bling, multitool-keyholder, custom Ti prybar, spare mag for primary, spare mag for BUG, cell phone, inkpen and notebook, bootknife, Firefly IR beacon, extra TQ in belt pouch, x-ray glasses and bottle of hand lotion.”

Unless you want to look like Batman with a sweet utility belt as you walk around downtown, that seems like a lot of gear to carry.

We'll admit it takes some serious cojones to get a $1000+ watch this dirty.

You won't usually see photos of a $1000 Smith & Bradley Rogue Atlantis watch in this condition, but it was...

Also, most of us aren't going to spend thousands of dollars on a watch, and then wear it while we're elbow-deep in mud and grime. Similarly, you may see EDC loadouts online showing off $500 customized folding knives, but the majority of those guys probably aren't really putting them through the wringer every day. Fortunately, our friends at RECOILweb recently posted an article titled “Every Day Carry for Real” that shows a handful of real-world EDC loadouts tackling some dirty bathroom repairs. It may not be pretty, but it's 100% real.

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Some may find these photos horrifying, and we can see why—it's not always easy to look at nice gear in this condition. However, we also find these photos refreshing, since the real-world EDC loadouts provide a much-needed reality check.

For even more photos of the carnage, check out the full article on RECOILweb.com.

Bugging Out With A Baby

Written by

We love stories and movies about a lone survivor. A single man in the apocalypse, roaming the ruined world on a dual-sport bike. Maybe there's a canine sidekick. He is always getting into adventures, and while he's not a bad guy, he'll often do bad things for the right reasons. He's the stoic badass underdog it seems every American man wishes he could be.

But you know what he rarely has? Children. In the few stories where there are children, they're always at a useful age and can largely act independently. I don't blame publishers for this. There's not a whole lot of badass gun-fighting action going on when you're changing diapers or cooing them to sleep, and it's hard to keep a baby alive on a dual-sport.

So, what does our swashbuckling hero do when he has an infant? This is something that I've had to figure out for myself.

Even a quick trip to the grocery store, something that was so cavalierly performed as a bachelor, has turned into an affair that requires more time, thought, and consideration than ever before. A venture anywhere now requires logistics and safety checking akin to a pilot going through a preflight checklist. There is a little human with you who cannot survive on its own, likely made from half of your DNA, for whom you are responsible. Now imagine it's a disaster scenario — the potential complications ramp up very quickly, and your learning curve gets considerably steeper.

If you are not currently a parent or never intend to be one, you can still get something out of this article. You may find yourself among friends or family members with infants or small children when the worst happens. Plus, condoms could break — if you can find any in a post-apocalyptic world.

The innocent victims of any large-scale disaster or mass movement of people are infants, and it isn't their fault. You can't verbally reason with them or have a discussion because they can't even control their bowels, let alone understand language. They're needy, complicated, and entirely unprepared for any situation — hell, many of them can't even fall asleep by themselves. To make matters worse, parents and caregivers of small children can be easy targets for predators.

The raw fact of the matter is that many children die. Sometimes it's just a bad roll of the dice, but all too often it's due to a failure of preparation by the guardians. We prepare because we don't want to rely on outside agencies to see us through. We prepare because historically it gives us a higher chance of survival. So, let's go through some of the lessons learned, often by examining the failures of others.

The Baby Bug-Out Bag

Right after buying canned ravioli and terrible ramen noodles, one of the first things people try to square away when they start seriously considering prepping is their bug-out bag (BOB). If you're a parent, the good news is that you probably already have at least the skeletal architecture of a BOB for your kid — you just call it something else: the diaper bag.

In fact, just adding some additional items (many of which you may already have in there) and weatherproofing can make it a complete baby BOB, when combined with the contents of your own.

From left, the author's bug-out bag, the baby's BOB, and the baby carrier.

From left, the author's bug-out bag, the baby's BOB, and the baby carrier.

In my house, the major sticking point for the baby BOB was exactly what kind of bag to use. I wanted something that was tough and modular, and so many of the dedicated baby bags are cheap to the point of being disposable. The ability to carry it independently or as an add-on to my own bug-out bag for easy carrying was mandatory. I ended up with an assault pack from Tactical Tailor. Originally designed to be worn on the back or attached to a plate carrier, the shoulder straps can be stowed internally and there are provisions to attach it to another pack via Fastex clips.

Weatherproofing is important. Even if you have a waterproof bag, packing like components together in Ziplocs or similar not only keeps water out, but helps organize the bag.

Ultimately, you may end up with several bags of different sizes. A larger one for a vehicle where space and weight is less of a concern, and an essentials bag if you have to ruck it.

Clothing

Infants, being so small, are far more subject to the environmental changes than adults are, so clothing has to be well thought out. It doesn't have to be cute (though my wife disagrees), but it absolutely does have to be utilitarian. Warm clothes for cold weather, and light clothes for hot weather. Children grow rapidly, so while for your own personal BOB you may have a set of X clothes for summer and Y clothes for winter, it's more complex with a baby. Instead of swapping clothes out seasonally, you have to do it every couple of months. Thrift store clothing is perfectly suitable for this application and buying a size up is advisable.

Baby clothes are small, and even smaller if you use a vacuum sealer. This is good, as even the newest parents learn that babies can soil their clothing rapidly.

Blankets and warming layers are often needed even in hot weather. What isn't used for physical warmth can double as a sunshade. If your kiddo is uncomfortable, you'll definitely hear about it, and so will others around you.

Diapers & Sanitation

Like clothing, diapers come in different sizes as your kiddo grows. As such, they need to be changed out regularly. Even if you use cloth diapers at home, you're probably going to want some disposables in the diaper bag. My infant BOB is full of nighttime diapers. While they are marginally more expensive, they'll keep the baby drier for a longer period of time. You don't want have to worry about storing soiled diapers or about cleaning until you have to.

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Depending on how long of a scenario you're planning for, at some point you may have to worry about cleaning. In a pinch, just about anything absorbent will work as an impromptu diaper or wipe. I have wet wipes and cloth wipes. You may want to include a biodegradable soap or powdered sanitizer for longer-term prepping.

Specific medical and grooming needs are up to you. A fever reducer, teething medication, nail clippers, and other such items fall into this category. As an example, I have one of those disgusting Snotsucker nasal aspirators in there. She gets stuffed up? I snake the snot right out. The joys of parenting.

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Food and Water

Having water — and the ability to make potable water — is essential in any disaster, but it's of even higher importance if you are traveling with an infant. Babies easily become victims of dehydration through dysentery; diarrhea is the top killer of children in developing nations. Though when you're changing a diaper it may seem like there's an endless supply of liquids in there, it actually doesn't take much to put a baby at risk.

Even if your infant is exclusively breast fed (my wife calls it “EBF”), you're still going to need a lot of water. Why? Well if momma gets dehydrated, she can lose her breast milk. Very quickly you could have both a hungry baby and a sick companion. Not exactly the trouble you want when you've already left home due to an emerging disaster. For the situation that my wife's milk dries up, or if she isn't there because she's succumbed to injury or been carried off by a zombie biker hoard, I keep a supply of premixed formula in the bag. There are single-serving powdered options you may wish to consider as well.

The author's bug-out breast-feeding kit.

The author's bug-out breast-feeding kit.

TV commercials and ads in baby magazines would have us all believe that your little monster needs specially formulated colored goop that comes in a squeeze bag or glass bottle with a side of rice cereal. This is nonsense. With little exception, your baby can eat the same things you do, provided they're smashed or masticated small enough. If push comes to shove, I'll chew a piece of meat or other food first like a momma bird.

Transportation

If you're in a car, this is a no-brainer. The real trouble starts when you have to ruck it. Sure, you can just carry the baby. And your arms will get tired. And you won't be able to negotiate many obstacles. And you'll never have your hands free.

There are dedicated baby framed backpacks out there, mostly catering to the outdoors crowd. I found a few problems with these: First, the amount of gear you can carry in addition to the infant is dismal. Good luck getting anything more than what you'd need for a simple day hike. Secondly, with the baby on your back, you can't wear an additional backpack. Nor can you monitor them. And you're going to get puke all over your head at some point. Ask me how I know this.

I found carrying the baby on a front carrier or using baby wrapping to be the best method. Your hands are free, you can wear a backpack, you can still access your weapons (concealed or otherwise, though your carry configuration may have to be modded), you can monitor your child, and you can keep him or her warm and protected from the environment.

My go-to is a KinderPack. The ride height is comfortable, makes for great visibility, and it's easy to take your infant in and out.

If you look at pictures of tribal women in National Geographic, it looks like they just obtained some cloth and went to town. And sure, you can do that, but your results won't be as secure or safe. What can look so haphazard is actually carefully crafted. Believe it or not, there is a whole quasi-cultist subculture of baby wearing in the United States. They have forums, meet-ups, Facebook groups, and potlucks, all centering around physically wearing your baby. This is a resource you should pursue for your prepping. Even toddlers and beyond can be carried safely when they're tired if you have the right gear; think of it like a piggyback ride where you don't have to use your hands.

Stealth Mode

The catch-22 of having an infant: When it's more important than ever that you don't attract attention to yourself, you have a ticking time bomb of noise. Your baby will cry and scream. You can't blame them, it's the only surefire communication tool they have. But invariably there are times you need to be extra quiet. You'll probably know the best way to keep your baby happy, but warm and fed makes for the quietest baby.

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Attaching a pacifier and toy to your emergency gear can go a long way when silence equals survival.

Attaching a pacifier and toy to your emergency gear can go a long way when silence equals survival.

Pacifiers can go a long way, just be sure to dummy cord them to your rig, lest they be lost. While a favorite toy is ideal, you probably can't keep that in the BOB for prep purposes, so try to keep a favored toy in there. My daughter will want the mutant dragonfly-bee thing named Hamilton, but Elephonte Bellafonte the elephant is in the bag.

Depending on the age of your child, a nice thick lollipop may also work. You don't want something they'll choke on, just something to work on when needed. Additionally I keep a teething ring in the bag.

Have a Team

Having a team makes everything easier. [Editor's Note: For more on group survival, see “It Takes a Village” in Issue 7 of OG.] Since this isn't a pulpy survival novel set in the 1980s, your most likely team member will be a spouse or roommate — and not a bunch of experts at a Rawles ranch. The chance of survival with just you and an infant decreases exponentially the longer you're away from civilization. The ability to take turns caring for an infant while another provides security is a force multiplier, and it only increases with capable and supply-flushed people. But…

The idea that you can live off the land and out of your pack forever is pure fantasy. If you haven't figured it out by now, the chain of logistical needs for an infant is long. You'll have to seek civilization sooner rather than later if you have an infant. You don't need to last indefinitely, but you want enough to get out of Dodge and get somewhere else on your own terms.

Marsupial Carry Options

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Improvised Wrap: From a pillowcase with duct tape to a torso carry with a beach towel, a quick Internet search will yield a plethora of improvised baby carriers. Knowledge on how to safely and securely carry your baby or small child in an improvised carrier could save their life in an emergency. The example shown here was crafted from three cotton T-shirts.

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Soft Structured Carrier: Typically made of canvas, a soft structured carrier (SSC) is a durable pack built to withstand heavy use. The buckles and straps are easy to adjust for multiple wearers, and the ergonomic support makes these carriers comfortable for both you and your child. This is the author's preferred carry option. Shown here is a KinderPack (www.mykinderpack.com).

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Ring Sling: The ring sling is great for situations in which you need to get the baby quickly up and wrapped. With the ring sling you can carry from newborn to toddler age, however, extended wear with a heavier baby can quickly become uncomfortable. The example shown is from Cassiope Woven (www.cassiopewoven.com).

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Woven Wrap: Although it carries a steep learning curve, a woven wrap is the most versatile baby carrier. It can be used to comfortably carry babies from infant to preschool age, and can even carry an injured adult in a pinch. A wrap can also be used as a blanket or a hammock. This is the author's wife's preference. Shown here is from Oscha Slings (www.oschaslings.com).

About the Author

Dave Merrill is an Eagle Scout, U.S. Marine Corps veteran, and avid outdoorsman. Spending time in the backwoods canoeing and backpacking sparked his initial interest in survivalism at a young age. This attraction was hammered into enthusiasm by witnessing the effects of catastrophe first hand in developing nations. Dave is also a moderator on the forum for Zombie Squad (www.zombiehunters.org), a multinational nongovernmental organization focused on promoting personal preparation for disasters. And, yes, he's well aware the zombie theme has worn out its campy welcome.

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Protect Your Knees with the Hiking Rest Step

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If you've ever hiked up a steep hill with a heavy backpack, you'll know how hard it can be on your leg muscles and your knees. Individuals in peak physical condition may be able to withstand this strain temporarily, but sooner or later, fatigue will inevitably set in. Luckily, it's possible to delay this process and preserve your muscles and joints with the right technique.

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Notice how both legs are bent at the same time. This form may become tiring with a heavy backpack, or without poles.

As you walk uphill, pay attention to how you bend your knees. Without proper training, most of us will default to bending both knees at once—the front leg will bend close to 90 degrees, while the back leg will be almost straight (but not quite locked at the knee). This motion continually puts strain on both legs, since the muscles are the only thing keeping them from collapsing out from under you. It may be fine for short hikes with a light pack, but for all-day backpacking treks, it will become tiring.

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The solution is simple, and it's known as the rest step. The rest step ensures that your rear knee is locked straight while your other leg bends forward. By locking the knee, it takes the load off your muscles, and supports part of your weight with your leg bone for a split second with each step. These split-second rests add up over time, and reduce the overall strain on your leg muscles and joints.

Here's a video from Backpacker Magazine that shows how it's done:

When you practice this technique, take it slow and steady, with short pauses between each step. Mountain climbers in extreme conditions may need as much as 10 seconds of rest between steps, but for the average backpacker, half a second per step should be adequate.

Special thanks to Evan J. for showing us the rest step!

Review: Serac Classic Camping Hammock

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In the outdoor gear industry, the following piece of conventional wisdom is often repeated: “Reliable, light, or affordable. Pick two.” This statement indicates that it's seemingly impossible to accomplish all three goals at once. For example, it's easy to find high-quality, reliable, and lightweight gear—but it's usually going to cost an arm and a leg. On the other hand, you can buy inexpensive items that are lightweight and compact, but they may end up breaking after one use. You get the idea.

So, given this saying, we're always a little skeptical when we hear about a product that seems to meet this supposedly-unattainable trifecta of dependable, light, and affordable. On the other hand, we never say never, so we're always willing to test gear manufacturers' claims and tell you the results. No matter what, we're honest about our impressions.

Serac Hammocks

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Recently, the team at Serac Hammocks reached out to us, and suggested we try out their Classic Camping Hammock. After browsing around the company's site, it's clear that this hammock is claimed to meet the three criteria above, so we were curious to see if it really does. Read on to see what the Serac web site states with regards to each goal.

Reliable: Serac's hammock uses strong 100% parachute nylon, triple-stitched seams, durable polyester straps, and carbon steel carabiners. It is rated to support up to 350 pounds. The company also offers a 30-day money-back guarantee, and a 5-year no-questions-asked warranty.

Serac hammock review 02

Light: The hammock itself is said to weigh 14 ounces, which is several ounces lighter than hammocks offered by competitors such as Grand Trunk, Eno, and Kammok. The included straps weigh 4 ounces each, for a total packed weight of about 1.4 pounds (22 ounces).

Affordable: The Classic Camping Hammock is available for $37.95 with free shipping. That's considerably less than the big-name competitors—especially when you consider the Serac hammock includes straps at this price (most other manufacturers sell them separately).

Ok, so now we know what Serac says about their hammock, but we also know talk is cheap. In order to find out if this product really covers all the bases, we got our hands on one for a full review.

First Impressions

Serac hammock review 01

The Serac Classic Camping Hammock is sold through Amazon.com. If you've got a Prime account like we do, it's available with 1-day free shipping. Otherwise, the $37.95 hammock still ships for free, but only if you can add another item to get your order up to $49 or more.

Serac hammock review 03

When we received the hammock in the mail, we were impressed by how compact it is. In the included stuff sack with the straps, it packs down to under 7 inches by 6 inches—easily small enough to pack into a backpack or bug-out bag. We did find that the hammock weighed slightly more than claimed online, reading 1.86 pounds on our scale (Serac's site says 1.4 pounds). That's a fairly small difference unless you're an ultralight backpacker, but it's still worth noting.

The Serac with included straps, next to an ENO with separate straps.

The Serac hammock with included straps, next to an ENO with separate straps.

For comparative purposes, we set the Serac stuff sack next to another hammock from ENO (Eagle's Nest Outdoors). The ENO sack seems smaller, at about 4.5 inches by 5.5 inches, until you realize the straps come in a separate bag. With the straps and hammock all in the same stuff sack, the Serac is definitely more compact than the ENO.

Serac hammock review 05

Serac offers three color combinations to choose from: Golden State Yellow/Blue, Wildflower Purple/Teal, and Iceberg Blue/Grey. The first two were a little bright for our tastes, so we selected the third blue and grey option. All Serac hammock variants come with black polyester straps.

Unpacking and Setup

Serac hammock review 07

Serac states that their hammocks can be set up in one minute, since they require no knots, ropes, or poles. We don't have too much experience hammocking, so we figured it would probably take us longer than that. Nevertheless, we were surprised to find unpacking and setup was much easier than expected.

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First things first: you'll need to find an optimal location with two sturdy trees. The hammock is 9 feet long, so you'll want to select anchor points about 10 to 15 feet from each other. The 6-foot straps can accommodate a wide range of tree sizes—just make sure you find trees big enough to support your weight. If you can't wrap your hands fully around the trunk, it's probably big enough. Also, be sure to avoid young saplings (which will bend) and dead trees (which may snap or drop “widowmaker” branches on your head).

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After finding a suitable location, we released the drawstring on the stuff sack, and removed the straps. Looping a strap around each tree at about chest or shoulder height, we then pulled one end through the other. Finally, we removed the hammock from its stuff sack, and grabbed the carabiner ends. One carabiner was clipped onto to each strap, and the straps were pulled firmly to make sure they were secure. Within less than a minute, the Serac hammock was set up and swinging in the breeze.

Ideally, you'll want to adjust the hang to place the hammock at about chair level, as this will make getting into and out of the hammock easier. Some cases may call for increasing this height, but it's a safe bet to never hang higher than you're willing to fall.

Conclusions

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We've mentioned before that hammocks in general are a great choice for survival situations for a number of reasons. They're compact and easy to carry in your existing bug-out bag, and they can be set up and torn down quickly without leaving a trace on the ground below (unlike a tent). They're also quite comfortable when set up correctly, and can elevate you away from insects and other nocturnal creepy-crawlies on the ground. The Serac Classic Camping Hammock is no exception to these points.

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More importantly, however, we need to compare this hammock to others in its category. That said, we found the Serac to be an excellent hammock for the price. We didn't have astronomical expectations at the sub-$40 price point, but it really delivered great bang for the buck. Its materials feel strong and durable, and we appreciate the fact that straps are included with each hammock. We will say we wish there were some more subdued color choices available, and maybe even a larger “double” hammock similar to those offered by competitors, but overall we were satisfied with what we got from Serac.

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Despite the common saying that you can't have gear that's reliable, light, and affordable all at once, the Serac hammock seems to meet all of these criteria. Even if you're already prepared with a tent or another form of survival shelter, you'd be wise to consider adding one of these to your bug-out bag as an inexpensive back-up option.

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For more information on Serac hammocks, visit ExploreSerac.com.

To summarize, here's a final list of pros and cons:

Pros:

  • Very affordable at less than $40. Also includes straps at no extra charge.
  • Compact and lightweight.
  • Strong materials with good build quality.
  • 30-day money-back guarantee and 5-year warranty.

Cons:

  • Limited color choices.
  • Only one size available.
  • As with most other hammocks, you'll need to buy a sleeping pad or underquilt to prevent freezing your rear end at night, and a rain fly or tarp for inclement weather.

How to Purify Water with Bleach

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We all know that it's possible to purify water by boiling it, but this can be difficult in certain circumstances. For example, if you're stuck in a small apartment during a disaster, the utilities may be shut off and the running water may be contaminated. You probably won't want to start a smoky wood-burning fire in the kitchen, so it's important to have a backup plan for purifying drinking water. Fortunately, this is easy to do with a cleaning chemical most people already have in their homes: bleach.

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Clean drinking water is a vital resource that may become difficult to obtain in an emergency.

It's extremely easy to purify water with bleach, but you'll need to know the right ratio of bleach to water. Too much bleach, and the chemical itself will harm your digestive system—too little, and bacteria in the water will make you sick. You've got to get the balance just right.

If you're not at home, look for bleach in a kitchen or janitorial closet.

If you're not at home, look for pure bleach in a kitchen or janitorial closet.

Most household bleach contains 8.25% sodium hypochlorite, which is the active ingredient you'll want to look for on the label. If your label indicates that the sodium hypochlorite levels are lower than 8%, you may want to carefully add a few extra drops of bleach to your water to reach the correct concentration. Also, be sure your bleach is of the regular unscented variety, without any added ingredients that may not be safe to consume.

The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends the following amounts  of 8.25% sodium hypochlorite bleach to add to water:

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Here's an easy way to remember the ratio: 2 drops per 1 liter of water gives us “21”, just like the legal drinking age in the US. So, just remember “drinking starts at 21”.

Here are some other tips:

  • Find a brand-new bottle of bleach, if possible. If not, get a clean used bottle that has been stored at room temperatures for less than a year.
  • Use a clean eyedropper to portion out the bleach carefully, and be sure to use a clean container for your water.
  • If the water is cloudy, colored, or very cold, double the amount of bleach used. You may also want to filter the water through a cloth or paper filter to remove debris.
  • Stir the bleach into the water, and let it stand for at least 30 minutes.
  • When it's ready to drink, the water should have a slight chlorine odor. If it doesn't, add a repeat dosage, stir, and wait another 15 minutes before drinking.

How to Baton Wood With a Knife

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Armchair preppers seem to think that splitting firewood (and every other skill) is pretty easy in a survival situation. It must be — those survival guys on TV make it look so quick and easy, and they probably didn't even go to college. But when the harsh reality sets in, and these watchers try to become doers, they find that cutting wood is like every other worthy activity in life — there's some skill involved and practice required.

These soft-palmed TV addicts might not even be able to chop a little piece of wood in two with their expensive survival knives. And this is the point where they realize that they don't know the right technique. If they only knew how to use a baton …

Warning!

This is not meant to be an exhaustive guide to cutting wood. Using blades of any kind, especially in conjunction with a baton, can be dangerous. Seek a professional guide or a reputable instructor for more information.

What Is Baton Work?

Wood batoning is the act of splitting or carving wood using a knife and a wooden baton to tap the back of the blade, thus driving it through the wood you mean to shape or split. The physics involved is similar to hatchet wielding. There's a sharp cutting edge and some weight behind it. But the difference lies in the fact that the weight and the edge come from two separate objects.

By placing the blade exactly where you want it, you have far more control over the splitting and cutting process than if you just swung a hatchet or machete at the “target.” You can use your folding pocket knife or, better yet, your fixed blade to split kindling out of logs, branches, pallets, or furniture. You can also use this technique to make slats, notches, and other shapes in pieces of wood to build tools, traps, weapons, and many other items in a post-disaster scenario.

Learn how to baton, and you'll finally have proof that size doesn't matter, all that matters is how you use it.

Get Started

The basic technique is so simple that we could have put this article together without words — just a few pictures. But since we know many of you are the thorough kind, we put some together some explanations.

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Step 1 (Safety Check): I've had bark chips and bits of wood in my eyes before, and I don't recommend it. And I've had more splinters in my hands than a blind guy stumbling through a toothpick factory — not fun either. You'll want to wear gloves and some kind of eye protection while splitting wood, just to stay on the safe side. It's also very helpful to have a large log, tree stump, or some other surface to act as a “workbench” or “chopping block.” It should provide a stable platform to set up the item you intend to cut or split.

hard-wood-to-baton-and-large-knife

Step 2 (Pick Your Tool): The baton should be an appropriately sized piece of hardwood. For large splitting jobs with a big knife, you'll want a baton a little smaller than a baseball bat. For small tasks with small knives, a little 1-pound wooden club will work fine. It should be hardwood and dry. Wet wood will be softer (even if it's hardwood), and the spine of the knife will dig into it excessively upon impact.

hammering-wood-split-with-knife-and-wooden-club

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Step 3 (Get To Work): Once you're ready, start hammering the knife down through the wood by tapping the blade's spine. If the knife is really long, you'll have plenty of spine to hit. Consequently, it gets a little dicey when using knives that are too short. Hammer the knife spine until you've finished the cut or split — or you need to stop and adjust the blade. Knife adjustment is common and will happen often in baton work. Just be careful as you pry the stuck knife from the piece of wood that it's stuck in; this is the maneuver in batoning with the highest risk of injury.

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Step 4 (Repeat As Needed): This process can be used over and over to reduce logs into splinters and to perform elaborate carvings. In colonial times, house shingles were even made with this technique, using a heavy baton and a special large blade with an angled handle called a froe. But since you don't need to make a lot of shingles in an urban survival setting, let's talk about more practical uses for this technique.

Baton Your Way to Glory!

Let's say a storm knocked out your power, and you need a fire to boil your water and cook food. To confound your situation further, the closest thing to firewood you have are a few pallets you found behind a neighborhood store and some ugly furniture you've always wanted gone. With a little nail pulling and unscrewing, the pallets and hideous chairs will come apart, but they won't exactly fit in your apartment's fireplace or the balcony hamburger grill.

Enter the baton and knife. Using a chair leg for your baton, the chair seat as your “chopping block,” and your favorite survival knife, you can proceed to split the pieces of lumber and chair parts in half. Once split in two, these more slender pieces are even easier to split again and again. Soon enough, you have a wonderful pile of split wood.

And if these split sticks are too long, use the knife and baton to partially chop them and then break them to shorter lengths. Light up the smallest wood splinters first, then add slightly larger split pieces until your fire is established.

Conclusion

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With the simple technique of using a baton, it's easy to make a small knife act like a large knife. This means that we don't have to carry as much weight in tools to get the tasks of survival accomplished. It also means that we stay safer. There's a lot less that can go wrong when splitting or carving with a baton, compared to swinging a machete or hatchet around.

It's even easier to stay under the radar with the smaller blade during a crisis event. Imagine trying to smuggle a machete through a police checkpoint during a crisis situation. Or perhaps you're trying to stay low-profile as you work your way home from the office after a blackout engulfs your community. Then imagine how much easier it would be to walk around with a fixed-blade knife in your boot or bag, without raising so much as an eyebrow.

Being able to baton wood lets you work smarter, not harder. And at the end of it all, isn't that the way we should approach all survival skills?

Best Blades

By far, the best knife for baton work is a large, fixed-blade knife with a full tang, square spine, and beefy handle scales. A tool like that is built for abuse, and if beating your knife with a hardwood baton isn't abuse — we don't know what is. The average survival knife should meet most or all of these criteria.

But as your knife starts to deviate from the baton-knife formula, the chances of damaging the tool increase. If the knife isn't a fixed blade, you run the risk of breaking the pin that allows it to be a folding blade. If the blade metal doesn't fill up the handle area (full tang), you may separate the blade from the handle by beating it. If the handle is wimpy, or the spine is sharp (like a double-edged dagger), it just won't perform well when batoning. Use a beast of a knife for baton work, or go buy a hatchet. Keep your pocket knife in your pocket.

Non-Fire Uses

You could use a baton technique to create shingles from blocks of wood, but kindling and shingles aren't the only things your knife and baton can create. Some careful baton work can shave down a staff of flexible hardwood to create a self-bow or a crossbow prod. Careful shaving and some knowledge of bow-making and tillering are required for best results, but anybody can try it. You could also use a knife and baton to create tent stakes, boards for friction fire sets, trap parts, stabbing weapons, spits, sticks for primitive cooking techniques, camp furniture, and a wide range of other useful items. You can even use the technique to cut rope and vines by setting them on a log as a chopping block.