Infographic: The Devil’s Greenhouse – A Collection of the Most Poisonous Flowers

Warning! This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide on poisonous flowers. Eating certain plants could lead to serious illness and even death. To learn more, consult with a reputable instructor or trained botanist.

Bright and colorful fruits and berries attract our attention just as much as vibrant poisonous flowers. Since humans have been foraging for naturally-occurring food sources since the dawn of our species, knowing which ones are safe and which are toxic is of the utmost importance. While this quest has revealed countless nutritious and medicinally useful plant varieties, it has also revealed a number of deadly species. As a survivalist, it’s important to be aware of the poisonous plants in your area, so you can recognize and avoid them in the wild.

This helpful infographic from Ava’s Flowers outlines some of the world’s deadliest flowering plants, as well as where to find them. If you resort to foraging in a survival situation, you’ll certainly want to avoid everything on this list—and as always, if you’re not positive what species a plant is, it’s best not to consume it and find out the hard way.

An infographic describing many of the worlds most poisonous flowers.

It should be reiterated that just reading this infographic will not make you an expert on identifying poisonous flowers. Only by training with an expert will you be able to safely spot something that could be dangerous to interact with, or fatally toxic. But this will give you a better sense of awareness when the next time you think about reaching for that beautifully colored, or pleasantly fragrant flower.

Related Posts


Stainless-Steel Water Bottles

Because you’re a survival-minded person — and you paid attention in your fourth-grade health class — you know that water is life. It provides not only hydration for our bodies, but also a means to maintain good hygiene and overall cleanliness, as well as fend off disease and other ailments. And we can use it to cook. Whether we’re on a leisurely day hike or scrambling to get out of town for good, it’s clear that water is one of the survival essentials that we must carry with us — but how we carry this precious resource is always up for debate.

Obviously, in normal circumstances, you can grab a glass, mug, or even a used Big Gulp cup and simply fill ‘er up. Voila, water to go. But that’s not the scenario we’re talking about here. We’re looking for a vessel that will give us a means to contain, carry, and drink water while keeping it clean and safe from contamination and spillage during a run or running for our lives.

Navigating the aisles of your local camping, sporting goods, or big-box store, you’ll inevitably find a section that will inundate you with water containers of every conceivable shape, size, color, and material imaginable. With so many variations out there, how do we go about choosing one? For the scope of this article, we’re focusing on reusable bottles that are easily carried and can hold both hot and cold water, as well as other beverages. (Coffee is nearly as essential as water, after all.)

Material Costs & Benefits

Reusable water bottles are made of different materials, the most common of which are plastic and metal. While plastic bottles do a bang-up job on transporting liquids, they don’t tend to keep hot or cold liquids at temperature all that well. They’re lightweight and are easy to clean, but they can shatter when broken. And there’s always the debate about toxins, such as bisphenol A (BPA), found in certain grades of plastics. Even if a plastic is rated BPA-free, it could be just as toxic as, if not worse than, the chemical it’s replacing.

Within the realm of metal bottles, you primarily have two types: stainless steel and aluminum. Food-grade stainless steel is the go-to material for most metal bottles because stainless steel is non-reactive, meaning that it will not leach chemical elements into your drink — whereas reactive materials such as aluminum do. Aluminum bottles are reactive to acidic foods and beverages, so they can give off a metallic taste if not coated. Enamel- or epoxy-coated aluminum bottles are protected from the leaching effect, but one drop or dent of the bottle can damage the inner coating and release bits of it into your drink. Ironically, sometimes those coatings contain BPA.

Stainless Steel

Since bottles made of food-grade stainless steel don’t require any coatings, they are toxin-free and have no known health issues stemming from their usage. They’re inherently durable due to the plain fact that they are made of steel, and insulated types tend to keep both hot and cold liquids at their desired temperature for a lot longer than their plastic counterparts. Besides being strong, they are also easily cleaned and can be lightweight as well.

Aside from the health and strength benefits of going with food-grade stainless steel bottles, there are the practical uses for metal containers too. Because a steel-bodied bottle isn’t coated on the inside, it can still be used if dented. For survivalists, a steel bottle can substitute for a pot to boil water over an open flame without worry of ingesting bits of the inner lining. Using it to create a makeshift water filter device or even as an improvised blunt weapon is a possibility, too.

Stainless bottles aren’t all sunshine and puppy’s kisses, however. One of the drawbacks of using stainless steel bottles is that they aren’t compressible, taking up valuable storage space when not being used. They can also inadvertently heat up your water during hikes in the hot summer sun, making for a not-so-refreshing feeling when you drown your thirst in water that’s warmer than the weather.

With all those factors in mind, we believe that the strengths of stainless-steel bottles far outweigh their shortcomings. Let’s take a look at a few stainless-steel bottles that would be great to rely on while bugging out during an alien invasion or simply hiking the local trails.

What’s a Vacuum Bottle?

Vacuum bottles are actually made up of two separate bottles, one inside a slightly larger one, which are then merged at the neck. The air in the cavity between the two bottles is partially extracted, which creates a vacuum-like state that helps prohibit or drastically slow down the transfer of heat. This makes vacuum bottles ideal for holding hot or cold liquids for extended periods of time.

Temperature Test

stainless-steel-water-bottles-temperature-test

How many times have you craved a piping hot cup of Joe poured directly from your travel mug only to get a mouthful of lukewarm sludge instead° It’s been our experience that the claims of some bottle-makers are more than just slightly exaggerated. For your perusal, we slaved over a hot stove (and freezing icebox) to get you some real-world temperature test results for each of the featured bottles.

Full journalistic disclosure: We did the tests in this writer’s kitchen and not some scientific laboratory, so the results should be taken with a grain of salt. We didn’t see how each one would do at the peak of summer in Death Valley or buried under an avalanche on Mount Everest. And other variables, such as overall fluid capacity, were not taken into consideration. But our testing does give you a ballpark idea of how each of the bottles performed against each other under similar conditions. Your mileage may vary.

Note: Only the insulated bottles were tested, as the non-insulated models aren’t designed to keep beverages hot or cold for extended periods of time.

Avex Brazos AutosealHydro Flask Insulated Water BottleLiquid Hardware SidewinderMiiR Vacuum InsulatedStanley Classic Vacuum Water BottleZojirushi Tuff Sports SJ-SHE
0.7L0.7L0.6L0.7L0.8L0.95L
Hot Water Test
Start195°195°195°195°195°195°
2 hrs155°165°155°170°166°168°
4 hrs128°156°140°150°155°166°
8 hrs111°141°113°132°137°159°
12 hrs92°130°96°120°126°151°
Average Ambient Air Temperature at time of testing: 72 degrees F
Average Humidity: 62%
Cold Water Test
Start36°36°36°36°36°36°
4 hrs48°44°54°46°41°38°
8 hrs60°50°66°54°50°43°
12 hrs68°54°70°58°54°45°
24 hrs72°61°74°64°59°50°
Average Ambient Air Temperature at time of testing: 78 degrees F
Average Humidity: 43% Liquid Temperatures in Fahrenheit

Liquid Temperatures in Fahrenheit

OFFGRID Tech Brief

We used Kestrel DROP 1 Smart Temperature Data Loggers to measure the water temperatures for this test. DROP units connect to your smartphone or tablet through the Kestrel Connect app via Bluetooth. You can record and monitor the conditions of most any environment while accessing and charting real-time data on your smart device. The DROP 1 measures only temperature while its siblings, the DROP 2 and DROP 3 can also monitor much more, such as humidity, heat index, and dew point temperature.

Make & Model – Kestrel DROP 1 Smart Temperature Data Logger
MSRP – $89
URLhttp://www.kestrelmeters.com

kestrel-drop-1-smart-data-display

Stainless-Steel Water Bottles

  • Avex Brazos Autoseal

    Make & Model - Avex Brazos Autoseal
    Colorway - Stainless
    Capacity - 0.7 L (24 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 11 X 2.75 in
    Weight (Empty) - 13.5 oz
    MSRP - $30
    URL - http://www.avexsport.com
    Notes - The Brazos Autoseal vacuum-insulated water bottle is engineered to keep drinks cold for up to 20 hours without sweating for improved grip and tidiness. The stainless-steel, BPA-free bottle features a one-touch spill-proof and leak-proof Autoseal lid that automatically seals between sips to eliminate spills and leaks. It also has a spout shield to protect against dirt and an ergonomic clip-on handle that attaches to backpacks and other gear. The lid can be screwed off to reveal a wide mouth for the easy loading of ice and cleaning.

    The Brazos Autoseal vacuum-insulated water bottle is engineered to keep drinks cold for up to 20 hours without sweating for improved grip and tidiness.

  • CamelBak eddy Stainless

    Make & Model - CamelBak eddy Stainless
    Colorway - Stainless
    Capacity - 0.7 L (24 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 9.63 X 3 in
    Weight (Empty) - 7.5 oz
    MSRP - $24
    URL - http://www.camelbak.com
    Notes - If you're familiar with the excellent eddy line of plastic bottles from CamelBak, you already know what this bottle is all about — worry-free, one-handed operation with an easy-to-use cap. The cap contains a bite-valve straw that is easy to flip open and drink from. Flip it open, bite on it, and sip. It's that easy to use. Being made of stainless steel, there is no inner liner or any BPA worries. Putting ice into it and cleaning it is a breeze due to its wide mouth opening. This model is not insulated, but an insulated version is available.

    If you're already familiar with the excellent eddy line of plastic bottles from CamelBak, you already know what the eddy Stainless is about!

  • Hydro Flask Insulated Water Bottle (24 oz)

    Make & Model - Hydro Flask Insulated Water Bottle (24 oz)
    Colorway - Orange Zest (shown), Black Butte, Everest Blue, Acai Purple, Lychee Red, Green Zen, Classic Stainless, Arctic White, Pinkadelic
    Capacity - 0.7 L (24 oz)
    Height x Diameter - 11.6 X 2.9 in
    Weight (Empty) - 11.7 oz
    MSRP - $30
    URL - http://www.hydroflask.com
    Notes - The vacuum-insulated Hydro Flask is designed to have a smaller mouth opening for better flow control, resulting in less potential spillage. Hydro Flask claims to keep cold liquids chilled for up to 24 hours and hot liquids hot for up to 12. The double-wall 18/8 stainless steel also means no sweating, keeping your backpack free of condensation and moisture. Hydro Flask's products are BPA-free, 100-percent recyclable, and backed by a lifetime warranty. This bottle is available in multiple sizes and colors.

    The vacuum-insulated Hydro Flask water bottle is designed to have a smaller mouth opening for better flow control, resulting in less potential spillage.

  • Liquid Hardware Outrigger

    Make & Model - Liquid Hardware Outrigger
    Colorway - Electric Green (shown), Blue No. 5, Brushed Stainless, Fire Engine Red, Vista Blue, White Room
    Capacity - 0.8 L (27 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 10 X 2.75 in
    Weight (Empty) - 8.4 oz
    MSRP - $24
    URL - http://www.liquidhardware.com
    Notes - The leak-proof Outrigger bottle features a magnet on its lid that can be attached to a magnetic stainless collar, allowing the user to never lose its lid. Made of food-grade stainless steel, the bottle holds no smell or aftertaste, even after being left dirty. Never lose a drop with its trademark no-drip lip. Even when full of water, the bottle sticks to just about any metal surface, which comes in handy if you're out of storage options. OFFGRID readers will also like that its lid becomes an emergency compass when placed in water. (We noticed that the magnet portion points south.)

    The Liquid Hardware Outrigger is a leak-proof bottle that features a magnet on it's lid so that you'll never loose it!

  • Liquid Hardware Sidewinder Vacuum Insulated

    Make & Model - Liquid Hardware Sidewinder Vacuum Insulated
    Colorway - Forest Green (shown), Brushed Stainless, Dark Blue, Black, Pure White, Aqua Blue, Oxide Patina
    Capacity - 0.6 L (20 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 10 X 2.75 in
    Weight (Empty) - 11.5 oz
    MSRP - $30 ($40 for Oxide Patina)
    URL - http://www.liquidhardware.com
    Notes - The Sidewinder retains many of the same features as its sister bottle, the non-insulated Outrigger bottle shown earlier, such as the magnet on its lid that can be attached to a magnetic stainless collar, food-grade stainless-steel construction, and its trademark no-drip lip. The big difference is that the Sidewinder is vacuum-insulated, allowing for hot or cold liquids to be maintained at temperature for longer periods of time.

    Check out the Liquid Hardware Sidewinder Vacuum Seal that retains many of the same features of it's sister's bottle, such as the magnet on the lid and magnetic steel collar, but is perfect for keeping drinks hot or cold.

  • MiiR Vacuum Insulated

    Make & Model - MiiR Vacuum Insulated
    Colorway - Stainless (shown), Matte Black
    Capacity - 0.7 L (24 oz)
    Height x Diameter - 9.75 X 2.75 in
    Weight (Empty) - 12 oz
    MSRP - $30
    URL - http://www.miir.com
    Notes - The MiiR Vacuum Insulated bottle is as basic as it gets, but don't let its simple design fool you. The manufacturer promises that this bottle will keep cold things cold for over 24 hours and hot things hot for over 12 hours. Made of 18/8 stainless steel, the bottle comes with a black wedge lid featuring a loop that's wide enough to fit most carabiners. Alternative lids are available on MiiR's website. As a feel-good bonus, the company donates clean water to one person in need for a year with every bottle purchased.

    The MiiR Vaccuum Insulated bottle is as basic as it gets, but don't let its simple design fool you, it will keep drinks cold for 24 hours and hot for 12.

  • MSR Alpine Bottle

    Make & Model - MSR Alpine Bottle
    Colorway - Matte Black (shown), Brushed Stainless, Gloss White
    Capacity - 1 L (33.8 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 8.75 X 3.5 in
    Weight (Empty) - 10.4 oz
    MSRP - $35 ($33 in brushed stainless)
    URL - http://www.cascadedesigns.com/MSR
    Notes - Probably the slickest looking of the bunch, the MSR Alpine Bottle is made of BPA-free, 18/8 stainless steel and features a faceted body for better grip. Its Quick-Connect Adapter Lid can be screwed off to allow it to work with all MSR brand water filters. A small drink port on top of the lid features a tethered twist-off cap that makes drinking from it quick and easy. The Alpine Bottle is available in two sizes, 0.75 L and 1 L.

    Probably the slickest looking in the bunch, the MSR Alpine Bottle is made of BPA-free stainless steel and features a faceted body for a better grip.

  • Stanley Classic Vacuum Water Bottle

    Make & Model - Stanley Classic Vacuum Water Bottle
    Colorway - Hammertone Navy (shown), Hammertone Green
    Capacity - 0.8 L (27 oz)
    Height x Diameter - 12.38 X 3.38 in
    Weight (Empty) - 1 lb 3.6 oz
    MSRP - $30
    URL - http://www.stanley-pmi.com
    Notes - When you imagine hot coffee being poured from a vacuum bottle, chances are you picture it flowing out of a classic Stanley bottle. This is the quintessential vacuum bottle that's been around since horses outnumbered cars on city streets. This 21st century interpretation features an 18/8 stainless construction, leak-proof technology, and a fully packable design. Its two-stage lid allows you to completely remove it to reveal a wide mouth opening or just remove the smaller top cap to drink and neatly pour from.

    When you imagine hot coffee being poured from a vacuum bottle, chances are you pictured it flowing out of a Stanley Classic water bottle.

  • Zojirushi Tuff Sports SJ-SHE10

    Make & Model - Zojirushi Tuff Sports SJ-SHE10
    Colorway - Stainless
    Capacity - 0.95 L (32 fl oz)
    Height x Diameter - 10.13 X 4.25 in
    Weight (Empty) - 1 lb 6 oz
    MSRP - $45
    URL - http://www.zojirushi.com
    Notes - Hands down the best performer in our tests, the Tuff Sports SJ-SHE10 features all stainless-steel construction, making it durable while providing superior heat retention. It has two caps covering a wide mouth design that easily accommodates full-size ice cubes. The outer cap doubles as a cup while the inner pour-through cap securely seals in the contents. The insulated cap can be opened or sealed with just one touch. Its body has a collapsible handle attached, and a carrying strap is also included.

    The hands down best performer is the Tuff Sportd SJ-SHE10 which features all stainless-steel construction, making it durable while providing superior heat protection.


Dehydration

There’s a saying flowing around that states, “If you’re not peeing a lot, you’re not drinking enough water.” While this statement might not be completely accurate, it does act as a good reminder to drink more water.

Dehydration occurs when your body loses more fluids than is replenished. This can happen in many ways, such as sweating during exercise or simply being in hot climates. Other causes include diarrhea, vomiting, fever, and urination.

To prevent dehydration, monitor your fluid intake. Avoid alcohol or drinks with caffeine, like colas, tea, and coffee. Drink clear liquids (water, broth, or sports drinks). A prevailing tip is to drink eight cups of H20 daily, but that amount varies depending on your body type, where you live, and how active you are. The rule of thumb is that you should drink enough fluid so that you seldom feel thirsty and produce at least 1.5 liters of colorless or light yellow urine a day.

*This information is for reference only. For more detailed information regarding symptoms and prevention, seek professional medical advice.

Mild to Moderate Dehydration Symptoms
– Dizziness Lightheadedness
– Drowsy or fatigued
– Headache
– Few or no tears
– when crying
– Thirst
– Dry, sticky mouth
– Dry skin
– Decreased urination
– Constipation

Facts
– 75% of Americans are chronically dehydrated
– Lack of water is the No. 1 trigger of daytime fatigue
– 37 percent of Americans mistake thirst for hunger
– Skip the old “eight cups of water per day” rule. Research now indicates that in most cases healthy adults can use thirst to determine their fluid intake needs.

Severe Dehydration Symptoms
– Irritability or confusion
– Fever
– Delirium or unconsciousness
– Sunken eyes
– No tears when crying
– Extreme thirst
– Dry mouth and mucous membranes
– Shriveled and dry skin
– Low blood pressure
– Rapid heartbeat
– Rapid breathing
– Little or no urination
– Darker than normal urine

Danger! Seek Medical Attention If:
– Irritable or disoriented and much sleepier or less active than usual
– Can’t keep down fluids
– Severe diarrhea, with or without vomiting or fever
– Bloody or black stool
– Moderate diarrhea for 24 hours or more

Sources

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
www.cdc.gov

State of Idaho Panhandle Health District
www.phd1.idaho.gov

Mayo Clinic
www.mayoclinic.org


Bushcraft Blades

The term “bushcraft” has been trending lately. It’s been applied to a wide variety of activities, from a daylong hike through a mountainous trail to a weekend camping trip by the lake. But others say it should be applied only to more hardcore pursuits, such as a serious trial-by-fire solo expedition into the backwoods where you emerge a different person. So, what is it truly?

Bushcraft is about conquering the wilderness and one’s darkest fears. Yes, it’s a movement of applying skills, knowledge, and physical endurance in the great outdoors — but it’s more than that. It’s a mindset that requires the development of both a survival skillset and a determined spirit to be able to overcome rising odds. In the physical world, bushcraft is a combination of skills and the right gear to help you not only survive, but thrive in the wilderness. The term bushcraft was coined in part by Leslie James Hiddins, a retired major from Down Under who was the main author of the Australian Army’s survival manual. He became well known for touring the Outback in search of “bush tucker” (AKA food commonly found or made by aboriginals) and even hosted his own TV series called The Bush Tucker Man. No surprise, he was sometimes seen on camera employing a blade.

Knives are popular among outdoorsmen for many useful reasons, but knowing when to use what kind is key. A machete isn’t very good at skinning a deer, while a skinning knife shouldn’t be used to blaze an Amazonian trail. A bushcraft knife is more utilitarian, simple, and to the point (pun intended). With a full-tang blade, it doesn’t have the typical accessories you’d associate with those cheap Rambo-style knives found on QVC, nor does it use those accessories to shill itself. Bushcraft knives are to wilderness survival like Jeeps are to desert trails: essential, nearly indestructible, and worth every penny.

Selecting the right one depends on personal taste, financial wherewithal, and likelihood of using it as it was intended to be used: as an all-purpose knife for hunting, food prep, cutting/chopping, self-defense, and shelter building. Keeping one nearby in your go-bag or in your general camping gear will ensure that when you need a knife that performs what you want, when you want it, you won’t be disappointed.

But buying a quality bushcraft knife, like the ones on these pages, isn’t something to be considered lightly. Where do you see yourself in the next few years? Stuck in a cubicle with five sick days and no vacation? You can pick up a $20 pocketknife at Target, and you’ll probably use it only to open bills and junk mail a few times a month. Or are you trekking into the backwoods of the unknown to seek adventure, glory, and the reaffirmation that you’re still a man looming atop the food chain? Then you may want a proper knife. Consider the blades in the following pages; no doubt one of them will fulfill your bushcraft needs.

Bushcraft Blades

  • 12 Survivors Hunter Knife

    Make & Model - 12 Survivors Hunter Knife
    Overall Length - 10.2 inches
    Blade Length - 6.5 inches
    Blade Width - 1.75 inches
    Blade Thickness - 0.25 inch
    Handle Thickness - 1 inch
    Handle Material - Paracord-wrapped tang
    Weight - 10 ounces
    Blade Material - 420J2 stainless steel
    MSRP - $144
    URL - http://www.12survivors.com
    Notes - It looks the part of a real bushcraft knife from tip to pommel, as each part of this knife was designed to work in harmony to produce a tool whose sum is greater than the whole. In lieu of grip scales, the tang is wrapped in paracord, which can be used to create a spear by tying it on a stick. The serrations on the spine are useful for light sawing, while the drop-point blade is thick and heavy. The notch just north of the bolster is a mystery, though. It's not comfortable enough to be a finger groove nor is it shaped right to be a bottle opener — we tested that hypothesis. After a couple hours of use under our belt, we figured out what it's for: an uncomfortable place to put your finger when using the blade horizontally.

    The 12 Survivor Hunter Knife looks the part of a real bushcraft knife from tip to pommel, and each part of this knife was designed to work in harmony to produce a tool whose sum is greater than the whole.

  • Böker Plus Bushcraft

    Make & Model - Böker Plus Bushcraft
    Overall Length - 8.63 inches
    Blade Length - 4 inches
    Blade Width - 0.94 inches
    Blade Thickness - 0.13 inches
    Handle Thickness - 0.81 inches
    Handle Material - Micarta
    Weight - 7.2 ounces
    Blade Material - 440C stainless steel
    MSRP - $80
    URL - http://www.boker.de/us/
    Notes - Böker has been producing knives in its German plant since 1869, but traces its origins as a tool-maker to the 17th century and as a sword-maker since 1839. Through wars and corporate buyouts, Böker USA has been carrying on the tradition of fine knives since 1986.

    The Böker Plus Bushcraft comes from Böker's Plus line. Reminiscent of a beefed-up steak knife, it's elegant and refined - like a fine wine that's appreciated only by those who know what they have.

  • Cold Steel Trail Master

    Make & Model - Cold Steel Trail Master
    Overall Length - 14.5 inches
    Blade Length - 9.5 inches
    Blade Width - 1.63 inches
    Blade Thickness - 0.31 inch
    Handle Thickness - 0.75 inch
    Handle Material - Kray-Ex
    Weight - 1 pound
    Blade Material - O1 carbon steel
    MSRP - $250
    URL - http://www.coldsteel.com
    Notes - With a broad clip blade jutting out 9.5 inches past the brass-plated guard like a 1970s Cadillac, this is one impressive piece of steel. It features no special additions, no ferro sticks, no compass in the handle, and no fancy colors or blade etchings. It's a knife made for those who want to cut something big from a distance and not worry about damaging the blade or the handle. This knife is so tough it can be used to pound a nail into a chunk of wood…with the blade face.

    With a broad clip blade jutting out 9.5 inches past the brass-plated guard like a 1970s Cadillac, the Cold Steel Trail Master is one impressive piece of steel.

  • ESEE Knives ESEE-6

    Make & Model - ESEE Knives ESEE-6
    Overall Length - 11.75 inches
    Blade Length - 6.5 inches
    Blade Width - 1.56 inches
    Blade Thickness - 0.19 inch
    Handle Thickness - 0.69 inch
    Handle Material - Micarta
    Weight - 12 ounces
    MSRP - $216
    URL - http://www.eseeknives.com
    Notes - Jeff Randall and Mike Perrin designed this knife not via a committee or with profit solely in mind, but because their experience and practical application of knives in the real world showed them what a knife should do.

    The ESEE-6 knife was designed by Jeff Randall and Mike Perrin designed this knife because their experience and practical application of knives in the real world showed them what a knife should do.

  • Tops Knives Fieldcraft by BOB

    Make & Model - TOPS Knives Fieldcraft by BOB
    Overall Length - 10 inches
    Blade Length - 4.5 inches
    Blade Width - 1.25 inches
    Blade Thickness - 0.19 inch
    Handle Thickness - 0.63 inch
    Handle Material - Micarta
    Weight - 9.73 ounces
    Blade Material - 1095 carbon steel
    MSRP - $170
    URL - http://www.topsknives.com
    Notes - The Fieldcraft was designed by The Brothers of Bushcraft, a group of outdoorsmen from all over North America whose combined knowledge help people survive in all ranges of climate. The knife is 10 inches long overall with a 4.5-inch blade, making it compact and relatively light.

    The TOPS Knives Fieldcraft was designed by the The Brothers of Bushcraft, a group of outdoorsmen from all over North America whose combined knowledge help ppeople survive in all ranges of climate.


Bug-Out Kayak

Come hell or high water, your best bet for slipping past urban threats with that 90-pound bug-out pack might just be a bug-out ‘yak (BOY). Swift and wickedly silent, these low-signature kayaks are capable of carrying you plus your weight’s worth in gear for days, all while vanishing without a trace. If you’re not practicing your escaping or scouting with these shallow running craft, then your foolproof evacuation route is already landlocked — and for allowing that planning blind spot, fellow traveler, you deserve a good paddling.

Paddled solo, in tandem, or possibly strung together like a caravan of pack mules, BOYs bridge the water-surface mobility gap, serving as your conduit to safety when vehicles halt and roadways are impassable. To paraphrase an old saying, do not get caught up SHTF creek without a paddle.

Unlike larger craft (see OFFGRID’s Summer 2014 issue for more on water vessels), the ‘yak is man portable, capable of launching over rocks or a sea wall — especially with portage wheels (think two-wheeled dolly). No fossil fuels needed, and no engine to flood. No batteries, license, insurance, or registration. And there are few if any moving parts to maintain or corrode. Your BOY may be pre-staged at your home and camp, or strapped to your roof rack and locked with a bicycle cable, a torpedo-shaped plastic storage pod packed with gear below deck. A kayak can lead to a limitless source of drinking water, help you identify or scout for potential dangers, and be used for fishing or food gathering.

Types of ‘Yaks

The recent BOY concept springs from the national explosion in recreational kayaking. These tough, accessible, and affordable reinforced polyethylene boats range from 12 to 16 feet or so. They’re suitable for all ages, abilities, and family members. Recreational kayaks are generally divided into two styles: “sit-inside” open cockpit and “sit-on-top” seats that are molded into a decked or closed hull. Both have built-in floatation and some storage.

Our preference is the sit-on-tops by Confluence Outdoors with a fully enclosed deck, camo colors, and gasket-sealed storage hatches. When equipped with a flip-down rudder system, the foot pedals become our steering mechanism, helping the kayak track and preventing us from wasting energy on corrective paddle strokes while heading into the wind or the current. Gunwale rail system fittings hold adjustable tie-downs for customizing locations of additional dry storage bags, fishing-rod holders, anchor lines, and electronics.

bug-out-kayaks-

With the hatches latched closed, the sit-on-top enclosed deck adds seaworthiness to the boat during rough waters and storms. These kayaks are self-bailing when punching through storms or waves because rain and water drains through built-in scuppers, a feature sit-inside boats lack in open waters.

Regarding carrying capacity, one 16-foot kayak classic, quiet hull Wilderness Systems Tarpon 160 we evaluated is rated for 375 pounds of load-out including the paddler. The stout Confluence Ride 13.5 model was rated for 550 pounds of capacity including paddler.

Pack Mules on Water

To see if the BOY concept would work for wives and kids, we recently gave a petite female friend some conditional paddling instructions and sent her on her way. She carried 100 pounds of gear balanced on her kayak for a few miles without undue strain. Trading her hiking staff for a double-bladed paddle, she was able to conserve her energy over several hours by resting and drifting between paddle strokes. Trying to carry that same load in a backpack on land would have crushed her within 100 paces. Yet, in her ‘yak she still had strong legs at the end of the day.

You can fit a surprising amount of gear on a kayak.

You can fit a surprising amount of gear on a kayak.

To paddle efficiently, one can trim one’s ‘yak by adjusting the load fore and aft. The BOY offers recreational fitness paddling for your family and team members, but only if you load it properly. Build endurance and trust during trial runs near your home. Gauge your pace and shake down your gear along the way, putting into practice the theory of navigational chart and compass. Plot those courses on your handheld GPS unit, adding miles to your daily paddles at a walking pace.

Squared-away BOY watermen learn basic paddle strokes necessary to move the boat efficiently and without wasted motion. Work on the forward, reverse, and sweep strokes, as well as simple bracing or sculling moves. Practice draw strokes and rudder strokes to help build your confidence with a fully loaded kayak in open waters, tidal flows, and river currents. Find a coach and practice rescues. You may be the one called upon to go after an overboard team member, or to evacuate a child, relative, or pet using the kayak as a waterborne stretcher.

Below: For a waterborne escape plan, you'll need to do research and practice long before any impending emergency...and you'll need the right gear to help you navigate.

Below: For a waterborne escape plan, you’ll need to do research and practice long before any impending...

Alternative Escape Route

In the United States, flooding remains one of the leading causes of weather-related deaths. Surviving extreme urban flooding may depend on your temporary access to kayaks pre-staged at home or on your vehicle with your family load out, combined with a specialized knowledge and practiced skillset to recognize the need to escape structures and navigate only those routes when safe to do so.

But even if it’s not floodwaters contaminated with fuel, sewage, and debris, a disaster can still drive widespread chaos. With a population dependent upon prescribed paths, waves of panicked people following their on-grid mentality will guarantee gridlock on streets and highways. As order rapidly breaks down, roving predator packs will recognize these chokepoints as ambush points to attack the immobile stragglers. Add blackouts, rioting and looting, fuel shortages, and communication breakdowns, and all bets are off.

In hard times, disconnecting from the grid may require reconnecting with the water. A kayak can provide a way out of danger when your car or even your bug-out truck can’t. However, the safest distance between two points is not always the straightest.

Revisit your bug-out route, focusing on the blue lines that radiate outward toward your safe zones. Like the third plane on a three-dimensional chessboard, there exists within our innermost cityscapes a serpentine labyrinth of water. Search for those little feeder creeks, bayous, sloughs, tributaries, and natural or man-altered drainage channels. Identity the intersections of roads and rivers near your home, business, or remote safety site. These are your BOY’s on- and off-ramps. Once your home waters are mapped, plotted, and explored, your kayak becomes a rogue chess piece free from the confining black-and-white grid of asphalt and concrete.

Ninja Mode of Transport

Post-hurricane hostilities might require you to temporarily abandon your home or vehicle to adopt a defensive posture. A BOY provides an effective means of escape and evasion. After all, a ‘yak leaves no tracks, gives off zero emissions, and is a tad quieter than a Hummer.

And unlike trekking on foot (’cause you’re certainly not driving to safety), this type of boat allows you to pass through urban waterways with the ability to both quickly access and conceal any manner of long-gun, considered the ultimate tool for repelling plastic-boat pirates. Tandem paddle teams can place a scout bow-gunner or tail-gunner outside your pack of paddlers, presenting a low-profile lethal combo.

But to stay discreet on the water, you’ll have to train. Practice hand signals with your family and friends. Do not give away your silent advantage by excessively talking because sound carries over water. If your party must rest, look for those side feeder creeks that offer a detour off the main water body, bay, lake, or river system.

Unlike a large RV or SUV, kayaks are effective at escape and evasion. They're relatively quiet, leave no tracks, and emit zero emissions.

Unlike a large RV or SUV, kayaks are effective at escape and evasion. They’re relatively quiet, leave no tracks,...

Of utmost importance is your paddle selection. Do not scrimp or allow this to become an afterthought. Cry once. Reach for the advanced composite paddles, such as the Adventure Technology Fishstix with adjustable length and angle, and woodland camo pattern. This paddle combines a bent shaft to reduce wrist strain and a feathery buoyant blade with serious bite. Let it become a part of you.

Once you’ve escaped the initial flooding or the resultant urban chaos, you can then take a stand on the high ground, hunker down until conditions improve, move to your next strongpoint, or return home. Like some of the best survival equipment, bug-out ‘yaks come with this simple instruction: Just add water.

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A Brief History of Kayak Action

– “Kayak” comes from the Inuit word “qayak,” a 2,000-year-old term for “hunter’s boat.” These early kayaks consisted of natural skins stretched over wood and bone frames.

– The World War II “canoe commandoes” of the British Royal Marines were immortalized in the 1955 British movie The Cockleshell Heroes, which is a fictionalization of their heroic raid on German ships in Nazi-occupied France.

– You’ll find a faded black-and-white photo of two kayakers at the U.S. Navy UDT-SEAL Museum in Fort Pierce, Florida, serving as a reminder that not all surveillance missions take place in inflatable rafts.

– Medal of Honor recipient Thomas R. Norris is responsible for one of the most famous paddle missions ever while serving as a SEAL in Vietnam. When American airmen were downed over hostile territory, Norris and his South Vietnamese counterpart were able to rescue two pilots behind enemy lines on two separate nights by disguising themselves as local fishermen and paddling a sampan.

– Today, modern troops train using kayaks like the German Klepper faltboote (folding boat), which are formed by tautly fitting tough, coated fabric over wood and composite frames that are capable of deploying from a backpack. These kayaks feature airtight sponsons to remain afloat and below radar with low acoustic and thermal signatures. Even in the age of drone strikes, today’s elite warriors still employ paddle strokes to conduct surveillance.

Waterproof Rigging

Saltwater destroys. It’s ridiculously corrosive to steel and strips away at pretty much anything it touches. Even freshwater may be contaminated. So you have to waterproof your gear if you’ve chosen a bug-out kayak as your means of evacuation.

bug-out-kayaks-waterproof-rigging

The key to waterproof rigging is breaking down your load by group and individually encasing essential components, then compartmentalizing each group in cases like a small Pelican hard case. For an amazingly watertight barrier and a silent-running approach, nothing surpasses the versatility of the line of Watershed Bags by Drybags. To handily secure that 12-gauge shotgun on deck and out of sight, go with the Watershed “Torpedo” case. Trim the boat for silent running with three or more duffels, backpacks, maritime survival bags, or the complete SOF backpacks (standard issue for U.S. Navy SEALs).

Encase heavily lubricated firearms separately from ammo. Outfit vulnerable electrical and optical pieces, illumination tools, cameras, batteries, power sources, and communications gear. Bag sub-groups, including licenses, documents, tools, and medical kit and prescriptions. Strap securely to the deck or stow below, but never trust even gasketed hatches to provide a watertight seal.

You’ve Bugged Out… Now What?

Sea kayakers can cover marathon distances in hours under flat-water conditions. When paddling a fully loaded bug-out ‘yak (BOY), avoid strain, injuries, and detection by maintaining a steady but quiet stroke, gliding at a walking pace, paddling a few miles per hour until you reach your first waypoint en route to base camp.

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Ideally, you should try to reach high ground carrying a military-quality solo tent and rain fly like the Raider by Catoma. Weighing less than 2 pounds, these wonders are pure shelter, especially when combined with a lightweight sleeping bag like the Elite Survival Systems Recon II. At a minimum, the orange miniature space blanket sleeping bag and glow-worm SOL tent will work, even if highly visible.

To lay low during day or night, pull the kayak completely clear of the waters and bring it right into camp, anchor, paddle and all, so it will be there in the morning (or night) if flood waters and pirates follow you. Erase your trace, smoothing any ‘yak drag marks in the dirt or mud that points the way to your camp. This is more secure than blowing the hatches and flotation to weigh and tie down your boat, completely submerging your kayak at the water’s edge, and a lot less trouble.

bug-out-kayaks-hunting

For temporary or late night rests during still-water stages, the BOYs are stable enough to be lashed together and cross decked with paddles, enabling small teams to stretch out at anchor for temporary shuteye. For overnight stays in standing water, two kayaks lashed side by side and cross-decked with scavenged planking make it possible with practice to erect self-supporting solo or two-man tents with rain fly.

When the all clear comes through your VHF, the “approach with caution rule” applies while paddling back to urban areas. Be prepared to portage your boat with the two-wheeled dolly you stashed at your launch point. Return super early during non-curfew hours, moving smoothly, swiftly, and decisively with photo I.D., a strong flashlight, concealed pistol, and paddle to re-stake your claim to your home…or to ‘yak back to safety.

Bug-Out ‘Yak Gear Checklist

Having the right kit in a time of crisis can mean the difference between survival and starvation (or worse yet, a victimization by violent raiders). On a watercraft, having the right gear becomes even more important. Our author lists numerous options for what to pack in a bug-out kayak as a means to both inspire and inform those of you who are eyeing an aquatic evacuation plan.

– Aquatic Gear: 4mm Blue Line, folding sail, V-mast, 12-gauge flare pistol, handheld flares, nautical charts, scale, solar calculator, anchor, lines, throwable buoy, plus sea anchor, double-bladed two-piece paddle on leash, spare paddle, snorkel, mask, fins, pole spear, and Hawaiian Sling

– Illumination: SureFire Maximus headlight, Petzl IR strobe, chem lights

– Navigation: Garmin Foretrex 401 GPS and spare Garmin 78sc, batteries, Ritchie Compass and spare

bug-out-kayaks-emergency-supplies

– Communications: Horizon VHF handheld, GPS-enabled radio, emergency locator beacon, Spot phone

– Safety Gear: Flotation vest and whistle with Benchmade safety hook strap cutter

– Eye Protection: Polarized Wiley X sunglasses, Full Rx Wiley X Goggles

– Storage: CamelBak Linchpin hydration pack, YETI Roadie Cooler for medicine

– Tactical Gear: FirstSpear chest rig (with suppressor, MUT, SS KABAR, Dark Angel Kit, waterproofed, Medical Kit Below, medicine, stamps, documents, etc.)

– Clothing: Full MultiCam outer wear, boonie, two-piece storm suit and weather protective clothing, hat, gloves, face cover

bug-out-kayaks-weapons

– Footwear: Danner USMC boots, Altama Jungle Boots

– Weapons Gear: Spare magazines, cleaning kit, weapon-light batteries, ammo, Elite Bandolier, bow, arrows

– Shotgun: Remington 870 Marine Magnum, Stoeger 12-gauge Coach, Snake Charmer

– Rifle: Colt AR-15, Ruger 10/22 SS takedown, .177-cal. air rifle

– Pistols: SIG SAUER P556 SWAT Pistol, SIG SAUER P226 Navy 9mm, Glock 19

bug-out-kayaks-handguns

– Electronics: Mobile phone, camera, crank charger, solar panel

– Fishing & Gathering: Cuban yo-yo, light trolling rods, tackle, cast net, bait seine, spool line, hooks, sinkers

– Cooking: Coleman Peak stove, grill, skewer

– Toiletries: laundry soap, hand soap, ChapStick, cleaning solution, eye drops

– Camping Gear: Tent, rain fly, ground cloth, bug spray, repellent, bug suit, hanging head net, gloves

bug-out-kayaks-shotgun

– Tools: Binoculars, Zeiss Monocular, Casio G-Shock watch, Stainless steel sternum Spartan Blades knife, Glock folding shovel, machete, KABAR
Kukri, Swiss Army Knife, pliers, filet knife, snares, fire-starter sticks, fuel, signal mirror

– Water Management: Katadyn Vario Water filter, stainless cup, canteen

– Admin: Cash, weather writing pads, pens

bug-out-kayaks-tools

– Repair: Steel cable, plastic tubing (kayak repairs/spares)

– Personal Items: Flask, Siesta Key Honey Spiced Rum, Zippo, cigars

bug-out-kayaks-rifles

About The Author:
Bayou-born and hurricane-raised on the Texas Gulf, David H. Martin operates both Yippee Kayak Fishing (conservation-based angling instruction) and Myakka Kayaka (guided paddle tours) in Southwest Florida. He’s also a NRA-certified firearms instructor and chief range safety officer, specializing in advanced defensive pistol, shotgun, and rifle. For more information, go to www.yippeekayakfishing.com.


MacGyver-Level Pyro

Disclaimer: This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide. There are inherent risks when starting a fire — especially when doing so unconventionally. We encourage you to enroll in a course from a reputable instructor or agency and adhere to wildfire-prevention techniques at all times.

Fire — it can be both our salvation and our destroyer. As humans, we share a primal link with fire. Perhaps early man looked upon the smoldering aftermath of a lightning strike with rousing curiosity or ran away in sheer panic as a towering wall of flames swept across a forest. How many generations did it take for them to be able to replicate fire and then learn to control it, respect it, and finally benefit from its many qualities?

Half a million years or so later (depending on your math), the ability to start and maintain a fire, like our ancestors, is mostly lost on modern man — what with matches, lighters, flares, and ignition stoves. However, somewhere deep in the recesses of our brains remains our attraction to the magnetic powers of a campfire. Its flames can evoke haunting stories, deep discussions, and jocular camaraderie. Sitting around the fire, we get back to basics. No jobs, no smartphones, no office commute — just homo sapiens harkening back to a time when fear, hunger, and pain guided us to our most essential needs. That time could return more easily than you think. A massive solar flare, an electromagnetic pulse attack, or a nuclear holocaust could easily destroy our way of life and force us to live like cavemen.

Fortunately, there’s a big handful of ways to start a fire without matches, a lighter…or even a magnesium stick. Some methods described here are easy, while others take practice, patience, and perseverance. The materials used in these examples are not ideal, but instead are used to show how you’ll have to do your best MacGyver impersonation to adapt in a given survival situation. Because, after all, you’ll have to make do with what you packed in your go-bag or can scavenge around you, which is reason enough to learn more than one way to start a fire.

In general, fire needs air, fuel, and heat to start. However, since air and fuel are abundant in most situations, finding something that can translate a source of energy into roughly 450 degrees of heat can be a challenge. Fire-starters like these come in three basic categories: reflection/convection, combustion, and friction.

A small collection of common items one could employ to help start a fire.

A small collection of common items one could employ to help start a fire.

The Reflectors

Most of the easy ways to start a fire merely use the energy of the sun by focusing its light into a small pinpoint. If 4 or 5 square inches of the sun’s rays can be focused down to about an 1?8-inch diameter of white hot light, most anything will burn.

Method 1 Magnifying Glass
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-magnifying-glass

The convex lens has been used as a magnifier since at least the era of Aristophanes. And as any sociopathic delinquent knows, a magnifying glass is an easy way to roast ants on a hot summer’s day. Similar to the survivor’s friend, the Fresnel lens (originally designed to increase lighthouse efficiency), a magnifying glass concentrates light from the sun on a compact point, which easily ignites. Using a convex lens of any kind will start a fire with dry tinder in seconds. Simply point and light.

Method 2 Water Balloon/Water Bottle
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-water-balloon-method

fire-starting-methods-water-bottle-method

In about 60 A.D., Pliny the Elder described how glass balls filled with water could set clothes on fire when placed in line with the sun. The concept of filling a water balloon or condom (finally you’ll have a use for one, right?) with water and holding it in the proper position to focus the sun’s beams onto some dry leaves is a skill reserved for the utterly patient. It took four days’ worth of attempts to get small wisps of smoke from either the bag of water or the water bottle, but fire was still illusive. Also consider using discarded beer bottles — the clearer and cleaner the glass and water, the better the results.

Method 3 Reading Glasses
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-reading-glasses-method

Are you farsighted? If so, you’re in luck, as your glasses can be used to start a fire; however, ironically, you’ll need some water to do so. The difference between a magnifying glass and your reading glasses is that the converging lenses of glasses for farsightedness bend the light toward a focal point — but only in one direction. A magnifying glass is biconvex, meaning it bends the light once it enters the lens and again when it leaves. Regular glasses aren’t powerful enough to start a fire on their own, so to increase the power of your glasses, add a drop of water to the inside of the lens. This will turn your regular glasses into a biconvex lens. Find the focal point similar to how you would with a magnifying glass. If your glasses are expendable, put both lenses together to create a compound lens — for twice the power!

Method 4 Soda Can and Chocolate Bar
Difficulty Level MacGyver

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

The worst thing about people is that they throw trash everywhere, but the best thing about people when you’re looking to make something out of nothing is that they throw trash everywhere. In this case, hopefully, you’ll come across an old soda can and some chocolate (even some melted to the wrapper will do), and you’re desperate enough to give it a try. It takes about an hour, but rub some chocolate on the bottom of the can (toothpaste works great, too, as does steel wool — see method 6) and use a rag or the candy wrapper to polish the can bottom to a mirror shine. You know you’re done when you can clearly see your face in the can. Aim the “bowl” toward the sun so that the focal point is directly on the tinder and after a few moments, you’ll have fire.

Method 5 Ice Disc
Difficulty Level MacGyver

fire-starting-methods-ice-disc-method

fire-starting-methods-ice-disc-method

The last thing you think you’re going to find in a frozen wasteland is something that can help start a fire, and in the middle of a summer Californian drought, a frozen wasteland is difficult to replicate on camera (as awesome as the editorial staff is). But if you happen to be in subzero conditions this fall or winter, look for a disc of ice approximately 3 or 4 inches in diameter and about 2 inches thick at the center — but it has to be crystal-clear ice, the kind of ice made from pure water, not fancy bottled water, not tap water, and not boiled water. You need frozen natural spring water. Despite our efforts, we could not replicate clear ice without contaminants frozen inside, which is why our ice discs were better sunglasses than convex lenses. That said, if you’re able to carve a suitable disc of clear ice into a convex shape (think flying saucer), you just might be able to use it to make fire. Many winter survival experts have.

The Combustors

Sometimes sunlight is a difficult thing to obtain, and you can’t very well sit around on a cloudy or rainy day and wait for the sun to show up. You’ll have to find another way to start a fire (after all, on cloudy and rainy days, you’ll need fire the most).

Method 6 Battery and Steel Wool
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-bettery-and-steel-wool-method

The principle applied here is electrical, as the energy stored in the battery (in this case, a 9-volt battery) is more than enough to start a fire when short circuited by the steel wool. The great thing about a 9-volt battery is that it’s compact, fairly powerful, and has adjacent terminals. Use fine steel wool, as the coarser wool requires more energy to get hot. Merely touch the steel wool to the battery terminals and it will spark immediately as the battery overloads the strands of wool. Have a bundle of tinder available to transfer that spark.

Method 7 Gun Powder
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-gun-powder-method

fire-starting-methods-gun-powder-method

You’re never really without a way to start a fire if you have a live round in your pack. The ubiquitous Winchester .30-30, in this case, holds 1.9 grams of gun powder, which is easy to get to in a pinch (of course, you can use any unexpended cartridge). With a couple of pliers, pulling off the bullet is done easily, exposing a case full of combustible propellant. (Despite the popular misuse of the term, a “bullet” is just the projectile component of a round and not the entire round itself.) Pour out the powder and ignite it using almost all of the methods presented in this story. Make sure to bed your propellant in a pile of tinder, as it flares up quickly once ignited.

The Rubbers

The old adage is true: If you want to start a fire, just rub two sticks together. Heat leads to fire, and a great source of heat is friction, as first explained by Leonardo da Vinci. Of course, it’s more efficient to use more advanced methods if you have the means, but sometimes branches might be all you have access to.

Method 8 Rope Rubbing
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-rope-rubbing-method

fire-starting-methods-rope-rubbing-method

If you’re feeling limber and you frequent the rowing machine at the gym, then getting over the painful awkwardness of this method will be easy for you. To add suspense in a pirate movie, there’s always a shot of a capstan where a length of smoking rope is frantically being pulled through. Aiming for similar results, wrap a piece of rope around a stick sitting in tinder and pull the rope back and forth like you’re trying to saw the stick in half. Use your feet as leverage and give yourself a solid 30 minutes to get enough heat built up to start to see some smoke. Soon enough you’ll have fire and a Hugh Jackman-like physique.

Method 9 Fire Plough
Difficulty Level Novice

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fire-starting-methods-fire-plough-method

fire-starting-methods-fire-plough-method

The concept of the fire plough is that by rubbing a stick back and forth along a cut grove in a piece of wood, small pieces of tinder are produced at the opposite end, which will help ignite a tinder bundle as the temperature increases. If you can’t find an ideal piece of wood as a base, use a knife and cut a groove wide enough to allow the point of your stick to slide back and forth. Start “plowing” by rubbing the tip of the stick up and down the grove. Once you see some embers, cultivate them with light blowing until they produce a flame.

Method 10 Bow Drill/Hand Drill
Difficulty Level Advanced

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fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

When one pictures a backwoods survivalist starting a fire without tools, this is the go-to method they think of. There are five parts to the bow-drill set, and each must be made carefully if you want a successful experience: The bow, string, drill, board, and handhold. The drill spins via the bow and string against the board on one end and is supported by the handhold at the other end. We notched out a space large enough for the drill’s end to fit snugly, and toward the end of the base we created a small triangular space to collect the embers we hoped to create. From there, it’s just a matter of sawing back and forth, keeping the drill squarely in the hole, watching for the slight embers to flame up.

Conventional Fire Starting

fire-starting-methods-flint-and-steel

Flint and Steel: This tried-and-true method dates back thousands of years, and if you know a little bit about geology, you might be able to find a piece of chert (AKA “flint”) in nature to use. Striking it with high-carbon steel (such as a bushcraft knife) onto a char cloth will provide the best and quickest results.

fire-starting-methods-magnesium-stick

Magnesium Stick: A mag stick with a ferro rod (which is just synthetic flint) fits easily into your pocket and is cheap and long lasting. Scrape some magnesium into a dime-sized pile, hold the ferro rod over the pile, and strike it with something steel.

fire-starting-methods-flares

Flares: An unconventional way using a conventional tool. As a multitasker, a road flare is great for signaling. But since it can be used in inclement weather (rain, snow, wind) and is self-lighting, it’s a great tool to ignite a fire with.

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Matches/Lighter: Just pack these in waterproof containers and store them everywhere. Of course, matches are vulnerable to being damaged or dampened (especially in wet conditions), while lighters can break or run out of lighter fluid. But for the most part quality matches or lighters hold up, and they’re cheap, lightweight, and easy to carry. Snap, presto, flame on!

Only You Can Prevent Wildfires

Just because you’re lost and in a survival situation doesn’t mean you can accidentally burn down the whole forest. No, the authorities won’t understand, you will not pass Go, you will not collect $200, but you’ll go directly to jail. Don’t be that guy; listen to what Smokey the Bear always says.

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– Pick a good spot to build your fire, clear of any dried leaves or dead trees. If it’s windy, build your fire in a protected place (between boulders or in an arroyo).
– Build your fire downwind of your campsite and at least 15 feet away.
– Build a fire ring of rocks to contain the coals.
– This is probably the most important tip: When you’re done with the fire, put it out.


This Ain’t Your Daddy’s BB Gun?

Picture the worst-case scenario. Our biggest threat (ISIS, Iran, al-Qaeda, North Korea — take your pick) has launched a coordinated series of suicide-bomb attacks in multiple metropolitan areas, hoping to spread fear and make the nation vulnerable to conventional attacks. Fortunately, you saw the writing on the wall and quickly bugged out in your off-road rig to the backcountry. You’ve lived off your emergency supplies, but weeks have now passed and you’re barely surviving off the land.

You packed an AR-15 rifle, but are low on ammo; plus, using it to hunt could draw unwanted attention from other desperate souls. However, all your preparation for this type of scenario led you to bring along a fitting SHTF tool — an air rifle.

Many airguns available today are more than adequate for taking small- to medium-sized game. In the United States, they’re even more attractive because they aren’t heavily regulated. So, those of you who like to plan for any inevitability might consider keeping one in your rig or bug-out vehicle, as they can be more than useful in all sorts of emergencies — from being lost in the backcountry to facing long-term survival situations in no man’s land.

Compressed Defense

First things first: what is an airgun? Think of it as a blowgun on steroids. Basically, it’s like any firearm with a lock, stock, and barrel, except it uses compressed gas to propel the projectile. The breech has a close tolerance to the pellet, forming a seal to trap the air behind it. The trigger system either strikes a valve to release the compressed gas, or releases a spring/gas ram to push a piston that forces the air to compress and drive the pellet at the time of firing.

Airguns have been around for centuries, with fine examples being displayed in arms museums around the world. Even the Lewis and Clark Expedition carried a multi-shot air rifle on their famed trek west of the Mississippi in the early part of the 19th century. When they hear the term airgun, most folks immediately think of “BB gun.” While BB guns qualify as a type of airgun, the variants we’re referring to are on a very different end of the spectrum. BB guns use .177-caliber steel shot and feature a smooth bore. While you could down a sparrow with a well-placed shot at close range, a shot from a BB gun is fairly anemic in most circumstances.

Quality air rifles utilize rifled barrels, with higher-end models sometimes sporting barrels made by top firearm barrel manufacturers such as Lothar Walther. Most fire .177- or .22-caliber pellets, and many come equipped with permanently attached sound moderators so their firing signature is less likely to announce your presence every time you go hunting. Would you believe that there are air rifles available today that are capable of taking out a buffalo at 150 yards? Don’t believe it? Do a Google search to see for yourself. As astounding as that may seem, that’s not even the extreme. In fact, back at the beginning of the 20th century, the U.S. Navy experimented with compressed air deck guns on a warship.

In a true SHTF scenario, could a modern air rifle be used for self-defense? Certainly, it is a possibility. However, there are caveats with that theory. First of all, a number of the air rifles discussed here are single-shot arms. While they may not be as slow to load as a muzzle-loader, they aren’t rapid fire either. Another caveat is range. Unless you have a custom big-bore, your effective range will typically be less than 100 yards. Additionally, pellet mass is usually only between 7 and 15 grains, so there’s not a lot of terminal ft-lb of energy hitting a target. The conclusion would have to be, yes, self-defense is a possibility in a pinch. But a better option would be to use your airgun for hunting, while saving your centerfire rounds for when you might really need them.

Affordable and abundant, airgun ammunition are pellets usually made from copper or lead. They come in various calibers, most commonly .177, .22, and .25.

Affordable and abundant, airgun ammunition are pellets usually made from copper or lead. They come in various calibers,...

Airgun Types

You’ve seen pellet rifles at the big-box stores, and most look like “starter” guns used to introduce kids to shooting. The low-end guns are excellent for that purpose, yet you wouldn’t want to bet your life on them. If you’re going to stake your survival on one, be sure to do your research. Let’s look at the power plants providing the air or compressed gas to different types of airguns.

air-rifles-gamo-whisper-silent-cat

The Gamo Whisper Silent Cat is a spring-piston airgun of the break-barrel variety, meaning that the barrel also serves as the cocking lever. This single-shot breech-loader can fire .177-caliber pellets at up to 1,200 feet per second.

The Gamo Whisper Silent Cat is a spring-piston airgun of the break-barrel variety, meaning that the barrel also serves...

Spring-Powered: Spring-piston or gas-ram airguns are commonly referred to as “springers.” Break-barrel types are charged by forcing the barrel downward though the cocking arc, sometimes requiring up to 35 or 40 pounds of pressure. Then you load a pellet into the breech and return the barrel to its original position. Other versions of springers are charged by a side-lever or lever below the barrel.

air-rifles-crosman-benjamin

This Crosman Benjamin is a multi-pump air rifle, meaning its internal reservoir is charged by pumping a lever — which, in this case, is integrated in the fore-end. Multi-pumps are solid off-grid tools because they're

This Crosman Benjamin is a multi-pump air rifle, meaning its internal reservoir is charged by pumping a lever —...

Multi-Pump: These rely on an internal reservoir that is charged by pumping a lever, typically part of the fore-end of the rifle. When the rifle is fired, all of the air in the reservoir is released. This type allows the user to control the power and velocity of the shot to some extent by varying the number of pumps. Multi-pumps and powerful springers can be a real workout during long shooting/practice sessions, especially multi-pumps because each stroke is harder than the last.

This Daystate Wolverine B can retail up to almost two G's. Your daddy's BB gun it is not — unless his last name is Trump. This pre-charged pneumatic rifle features a 500cc air bottle, allowing for about 85 shots of .177- or .22-caliber pellets per fill.

This Daystate Wolverine B can retail up to almost two G’s. Your daddy’s BB gun it is not — unless his...

Pre-Charged Pneumatic (PCP): These types hold high-pressure gas (air, CO2, or nitrogen), up to 3,000 psi, in a reservoir attached to the gun. PCPs can be good for many high-powered shots before needing recharging and can be stored under pressure for long periods of time (except in hot vehicles!). These might be considered a little less “self-contained” as they require either a specialized pump or some type of pressurized cylinder (i.e. scuba tank) to refill them. But, if your bug-out truck is already rigged with an air compressor, you won’t have to worry about recharging when you’re in the middle of nowhere.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2): CO2 airguns strictly run on pressurized carbon dioxide via throwaway cartridges or tanks. Newer models can take larger refillable 88-gram tanks as opposed to the little 12-gram cylinders commonly used in BB guns and with portable bicycle tire pumps. But note that those that accept the larger tanks are not going to be more powerful than the other types of airguns. A disadvantage to cylinder-fed guns is that carrying spare cartridges can get heavy really quickly. There are some PCP models that operate with either CO2 or high-pressure air that can be viable choices, only because you could revert back to air after exhausting your supply of CO2. Other drawbacks: pellet velocities are impacted by ambient temperature fluctuations that affect the gas cartridges, and they should not be stored pressurized.

air-rifles-crosman-benjamin-discovery

The Benjamin Discovery from Crosman is a pre-charged pneumatic rifle with a filling port just below the muzzle.

The Benjamin Discovery from Crosman is a pre-charged pneumatic rifle with a filling port just below the muzzle.

Off-Grid Options

Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Which type is the perfect survival airgun? It depends on your finances and circumstances.

If you can stretch your budget, a PCP would be a good bet. They are good for many high-powered shots, have low to no recoil, and are available from some manufacturers in large calibers (i.e. .25 and .30). Several models are adjustable for the power of the shot, which helps conserve air if full-power shots are not needed. Some models are fed by rotary magazines. As a bonus, suppressed models tend to have a mild sound signature, essential if you’re trying to stay low-key. One manufacturer even makes a model with an interchangeable arrow-firing barrel. Some variants are carbine length, which adds to the appeal for some shooters.

The drawback? PCP versions can be pricey. For example, the Hatsan BT65 (featured in Issue 14 of our sister publication RECOIL) can fire 30 accurate shots at 30 yards before any noticeable drop in muzzle velocity — but it retails for about $700. Ouch! Other models, such as the Daystate Wolverine B, have a heart-attack-inducing MSRP of almost $2,000. Yes, two grand. Double ouch! Plus, if your bug-out truck doesn’t already have an air compressor or you’re forced to go on foot, you’ll have a hard time justifying packing an air pump in your go-bag over, say, water and rations.

This special high-pressure air pump is designed to recharge pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) airguns. In a bug-out scenario, packing this piece of equipment makes PCP air rifles a little less attractive. But if you have the cargo capacity to spare, a PCP and its accessories are good additions to your survival kit.

This special high-pressure air pump is designed to recharge pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) airguns. In a bug-out scenario,...

Another good choice for an off-grid airgun could be a multi-pump. These types truly are self-contained because the method to charge the gun is built right into the weapon itself. In .20- or .22-caliber, they are quite capable of taking small critters at reasonable distances. They tend to have light recoil and are relatively quiet. One manufacturer produces a bullpup configuration in .30-caliber and claims the pumping force doesn’t increase with each pump. But there are downsides. They shouldn’t be left pressurized for long periods. Plus, they must be pumped for each shot. So, if you’re faced with more than one marauder or predator, you better make that first shot count and have a backup weapon at the ready.

For the budget-conscious, a break-barrel springer could be more than adequate as a survival gun. There are many models readily available in a myriad of calibers, stocks, and finishes. Some are very powerful, can be had in calibers as big as .25, and are accurate with practice. Models equipped with sound moderators reduce the sharp crack as the pellet leaves the barrel, and, of course, some work better than others.

The Hatsan MOD 125 Sniper is available in .177, .22, and .25, the former of which can shoot up to 1,250 feet per second. This single-shot, break-barrel rifle comes in three colors, including this Mossy Oak Break-Up camo version.

The Hatsan MOD 125 Sniper is available in .177, .22, and .25, the former of which can shoot up to 1,250 feet per...

What’s their biggest hindrance as a SHTF tool? Springers are typically heavy due to the metal used in the receiver housing, its powerful spring, and a substantial stock to handle its internal stresses. If you’re already carrying a large three-day pack, this type of airgun will only add to your cargo load. Also, they’re rather loud unless fitted with a good suppressor. Its cocking force can be a bit much for smaller shooters, too. While not the same as a medium-caliber rifle, recoil from a springer can be surprisingly stout for shooters fondly remembering their old BB guns; plus, its recoil occurs in both forward and backward directions. For this reason, you do not want to use your favorite riflescope on your springer air rifle because it could eventually damage the scope.

Should you find yourself in a Red Dawn-like situation, your firearms will obviously be essential survival tools. But they’re not always the best choice when you’re forced to go on a stealth hunt after all the grocery stores have been boarded up, burned down, or taken over by unsavory types. Archery bows are great tools, but let’s face it, they take a lot of practice to master and aren’t necessarily the best choice with small game. Spears, slingshots, or blowguns might be an option at close range, but again, only with enough practice. For the area in between these options, the airgun makes sense for filling the void. There are a myriad of choices out there, so you are bound to find the right option for you. Do your research and test some out if you’re able. It could mean the difference between facing starvation or putting meat in the pot.

Warning!

Airguns aren’t toys. Handle them like firearms, and obey the four cardinal safety rules: 1. Treat every gun as if it were loaded; 2. Always point the gun in a safe direction; 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you’re ready to fire; and 4. Be aware of your target’s surroundings.

Airgun Maintenance

Keeping your weapons, even airguns, in top form is essential to your survival. For springer-type air rifles, besides cleaning and lubing the inside of the barrel occasionally, you’ll want to oil its joints and any friction points. Any type of airgun you decide on will also need new O-rings or seals eventually. The seals will last a whole lot longer if you avoid using any products derived from petroleum distillates, so get yourself some quality silicone lubricant. Replacing seals on an airgun is a topic for another article, but educating yourself on some simple maintenance via the user manual, YouTube, or friends and acquiring a supply of seals and parts will go a long way in keeping that air rifle a viable piece of your survival kit.

Air Force Education

Are you new to airguns? Never fired an air rifle before? Much like any other valuable survival tool, there is a bit of a learning curve. The best thing to do before purchasing a model is to do as much research as possible and test a few if you have the opportunity, then determine if any of them fit in your off-grid plans. Below is a brief list of companies and resources in the world of airguns.

Airforce Airguns: This U.S. manufacturer of pre-charge pneumatics (PCP) produces the Ton Jones signature survival air rifle.
www.airforceairguns.com

Airgun Hobbyist: A publication devoted to airguns and its related accessories.
www.airgunhobbyist.com

Airguns of Arizona: This importer and purveyor of fine airguns is also a certified repair facility for many brands.
www.airgunsofarizona.com

Crosman: Founded in 1923, this U.S. corporation makes all types of airguns, ammo, and accessories.
www.crosman.com

Daystate: An English company that constructs high-end PCP rifles.
www.daystate.com

FX Airguns: A Swedish maker of fine PCP and multi-pump air rifles, as well as the arrow-firing Verminator Extreme.
www.fxairguns.com

Gamo USA: This is the American arm of the longtime Spanish airgun manufacturer.
www.gamousa.com

Hatsan USA: The U.S. branch of a line of high-quality Turkish airguns, many in .25-caliber.
www.hatsanusa.com

Umarex USA: The American division of this German corporation designs impressive airguns.
www.umarexusa.com


The Art of Building Effective Makeshift Weapons

Sharp rocks. Arrows. Catapults. Blunderbuss. SCAR-17 rifle. Intercontinental ballistic missiles. Since the dawn of time, man has been crafting weapons. Much like our need for food and shelter, it seems the desire to defend ourselves from harm is ingrained in our DNA — and most of the time our fists and feet just aren’t good enough. Take a look at even the most primitive, isolated cultures on earth, and you’ll see a plethora of different weapon designs, from simple spears and clubs to more advanced contraptions. It’s easy to understand why: In many cultures, to have no weapon is to face an immediate, painful death.

Today, weaponry has evolved considerably beyond the humble spear. In fact, many of us own firearms that are more powerful, durable, and compact than our ancestors could have possibly dreamed. Still, it’s easy to become overly reliant on our modern technology, and we rarely consider what might happen if these high-tech weapons malfunction. Or, worse yet, if we found ourselves in a life-and-death situation completely empty handed.

What if you were thrown into a hostile scenario with nothing but your ingenuity and the clothes on your back? Would you have what it takes to create your own weapon and survive?

The mention of improvised weapons may evoke images of wilderness survival TV personalities building overly complex snares or poison darts, but the reality is much simpler. In fact, makeshift weapons have a long history of real-world effectiveness — for example, just look at the prison system. Even in the most Spartan environment imaginable, with limited resources and under near 24/7 observation, convicts have managed to create deadly weapons from combs, toothbrushes, and even toilet paper. It’s all about setting one’s mind to the task at hand and taking stock of one’s resources. Once that happens, weapons will become readily apparent.

Here’s a small sample of a few improvised weapons created by untrained survivalists over the course of a few hours. The diversity seen here is truly impressive. Now imagine what could be done with a little study and practice.

Here’s a small sample of a few improvised weapons created by untrained survivalists over the course of a few hours....

Types of Improvised Weapons

Stuck between a rock and a hard place, with all manner of predators (either the two-legged and four-legged variety)? The first step is to take in your surroundings and note what objects are available. Then consider whether those items can be crafted into three classes of improvised weapons: blunt-force, piercing, and projectile. Each category has its advantages and disadvantages:

Blunt-Force Weapons: They’re exactly what they sound like — simple, no-nonsense, and absolutely devastating when used correctly. Channel your inner caveman, because the club is one of the most well-known weapons in this category. Maces, staves, batons, and knuckledusters would also fall into this class, as do kali sticks (for those of you familiar with Filipino martial arts). In a wilderness setting, a solid tree branch would make an excellent blunt-force weapon, while an urban environment might furnish a pipe, 2×4, or even an actual hammer.

Piercing Weapons: These are much more versatile for survival situations, but also more difficult to create. These weapons are designed to slash or stab, and include shivs, spears, pikes, knives, and swords. If you’re in an urban setting, you’ll be likely to find any manner of cutlery, scissors, or even a letter opener to use or modify into a spear. In the wilderness, a simple sharpened stick of any length is a tried-and-true implement of defense.

These tools have better range, but are the most risky to use. Once you’ve used your weapon, you’re left defenseless while you reload, draw another weapon, or make your escape. However, with proper training, these weapons can be deadly. Included in this category are slings, bows, javelins, throwing knives, and bolas.

Keep in mind that any of these categories may be combined for added effectiveness. For example, a shovel, pickaxe, or hatchet would serve as an excellent hybrid of blunt-force and piercing. A tomahawk can be used for hacking and slashing, or thrown for added range. The more weapons you make, the more options you have. The possibilities are as limitless as your ingenuity.

Building a Weapon

Now that you’re aware of the differing weapon classes, on to the harder part: how to actually build one. These techniques, and your available resources, will vary greatly between urban and rural environments, so we will address both settings.
Urban environments (whether metropolises or small towns) are rife with all sorts of useful manmade materials. Building a weapon from scratch probably won’t be necessary here, seeing as how there are many preexisting weapons available — and we’re not even talking about guns and machetes. Crowbars, chef’s knives, baseball bats, and the like would be relatively easy to obtain. If you find yourself in a place devoid of any effective impromptu weapons and forced to create a more effective tool, plenty of building materials can be found in homes and businesses — duct tape, cable ties, baling wire, and even broken glass.

One key point to remember: In urban settings during a chaotic event, you’ll be more likely to run into other people carrying more formidable weapons or guns, making stealth a key to self-defense.

Rural or wilderness environments make it much more difficult to build improvised weapons, primarily due to the lack of manmade materials. Even finding something as simple as cordage to lash a club together can be a struggle. Your primary materials will be stone and wood, so think primitive. Clubs can be formed by lashing a rock to a branch with fibrous vines or bark strips. You can also use twine, paracord, or fabric from your own clothing — whatever is available will (have to) do.

Barbed-wire fences can be a real asset, since the sharp wire can serve as both a binding agent and part of the weapon itself. Additionally, the thin stamped steel fence posts found in some areas can serve as a lightweight, strong weapon handle. Other materials to keep an eye out for include nails, bone, shells, and garbage. Something as innocuous as a discarded plastic bag can be repurposed into a sling pouch or cordage.

Many other weapons can be constructed quickly without complex tools. A spear can be formed by working the tip of a branch against a rock, or using a small knife if you happen to have one. If you’ve got a larger fixed-blade knife, just lash it to the end of a pole for added range. Even if you’re not in a wooded area, palm fronds or yucca stalks can be used in place of branches.

The Moment of Truth: Using Your Weapon

It may still seem unlikely that an improvised weapon would ever be used in modern combat, and we certainly hope that’s the case. However, it can and does happen in desperate situations. That’s why law enforcement groups worldwide study and document improvised weaponry. Criminals on the run sometimes resort to these tactics, and the fact that armed police officers take these weapons seriously shows their effectiveness.

Just as with any other type of weapon, the element of surprise can yield a major tactical advantage. If you feel threatened enough to use your improvised weapon, and can get the jump on your attacker, do so when possible. The last thing you want is to end up facing an armed aggressor head-on, or to end up outnumbered. Another factor to keep in mind is having a backup plan.

Remember, if your primary weapon breaks, you don’t want to be left defenseless. Most importantly, know when to back down and when to stay hidden.

An improvised weapon will always be a last-ditch measure — one that you don’t want to test out unless you absolutely have to. The moral of this story is not to become a luddite and abandon modern weaponry. In fact, it’s wise to embrace the finest weapons the 21st century has to offer. Just don’t become overly reliant on this modern technology — you never know when you might be reduced to fighting with sticks and stones.

In addition to its obvious use as a binding agent, cordage can be used on weapon handles to provide additional grip and avoid cuts or splinters.

In addition to its obvious use as a binding agent, cordage can be used on weapon handles to provide additional grip and...

Learning from the Past

Learning about ancient weaponry is crucial to creating effective implements of your own. Thousands of years of trial and error went into the designs of many so-called primitive weapons, and it would be foolish to disregard this knowledge.

Online encyclopedias have huge indexes of edged, blunt-force, and projectile weapon designs to study — or you could go old-school and visit your local library. Start with a simple design, and practice building it from materials commonly available in your area. Don’t go expecting to build yourself a crossbow under pressure.

Most importantly, learn how to use your weapon of choice as its originators intended. If you study the warfare of the past, you’ll be better prepared for anything that comes your way in the future.

The Filipino Connection – By Patrick Vuong

If you’re a fan of The Bourne Identity, you’ve probably never looked at a ballpoint pen the same way after watching the first installment of the movie franchise. In the 2002 original, the titular amnesiac spy (played by Matt Damon) dispatches various assassins with the help of all sorts of ordinary objects, including said pen.

Much of the innovative action came courtesy of fight choreographer Jeff Imada, a stuntman and martial artist who borrowed heavily from his background in both Jeet Kune Do (the system founded by Bruce Lee) and eskrima (a Filipino martial art). These systems emphasize adapting to your environment — and your opponent — using any and all means available to you. While eskrima is often considered a blade-and-stick art, its students can apply its combat principles using almost anything they can grasp. Pencils, umbrellas, and even this very magazine rolled up into a tube are potentially lethal improvised weapons in the hands of a skilled eskrima practitioner.

Your name doesn’t have to be Jason Bourne for you to develop competency in using everyday objects as self-defense tools. From handheld flashlights to scissors, ordinary items can make the difference between going bare-knuckled and having a distinct tactical advantage in an unexpected emergency.

3 Unusual Prison Weapons – By John Teator

When you’re caged almost 24/7 for years on end, you have lots of time to ponder both your existence and your death. Therefore, prisoners often get quite creative when it comes to fashioning weapons. Here are three surprising types:

  1. Powdered Non-Dairy Creamer Flamethrower: Yes, you read that right. Sodium aluminosilicate is an ingredient added to powdered creamer to keep it from caking. It also can become highly flammable when it is blown into an open flame. Place some creamer in a toilet paper tube, blow on one end with a lit lighter on the other. Voilà, flame on!
  2. Chocolate Napalm: Melted chocolate sticks to the skin and is nearly impossible to get off before it scalds — causing serious burns, a lot of pain, and possible disfigurement or worse. Boil a Snickers bar for extra sticky caramel gooeyness.
  3. Razor Blade Whip: Tie a shoelace to the end of a stick and, on the other end of the shoelace, string up several razor blades. There you go, a razor blade whip.

Should I Stay or Should I Go

Imagine yourself on a day hike, a pastime that millions of Americans enjoy each year. You’ve gone camping for the weekend, and set out from the campsite to explore the terrain and observe the natural beauty that surrounds you. You’ve got your backpack with a hydration bladder, snack food, knife, cell phone, and even a map and compass — plenty of supplies to get you through the day. You have it all planned out and know you can be back well before sunset, so you hit the trail with a smile on your face.

As the hours pass, you decide you’ve had enough hiking for one day, turning around to follow your tracks back to camp. The sun sinks closer and closer to the horizon, and suddenly it hits you — at this rate, you should have been back by now. Your surroundings seem familiar enough, but out here, everything does. Fighting back the onset of panic, you pull off your backpack and check your supplies. Barely any water left. No food. A smartphone that reads “no signal.” Damn it. Sure, you’ve got the map and compass, but it’s been years since you’ve actually tried to use them. Your heart drops into your stomach as you come to grips with the fact that you’re lost. Decision time — what are you going to do?

This scenario might seem like fiction, and let’s face it, nobody really expects it will happen to them.  However, even in the age of cell phones, GPS, and ever-expanding urban sprawl, it continues to happen. And, tragically, it continues to take the lives of those who are unprepared. We think you see where this is going — knowledge is power, and if you know how to handle being lost, your odds of survival increase dramatically. With this in mind, there’s one question that must be answered before all others when you’re lost: Do you stay where you are and wait for rescue, or do you get going and attempt to find your own way to safety?

Making the Critical Decision

So, how do you know whether to stay or go? It’s a difficult question — one that will become even harder when it can mean the difference between life and death.

It’s important to note that almost all wilderness survival guides recommend that you stay put unless circumstances prevent doing so (we’ll go into those circumstances shortly). Hunkering down and making yourself as visible as possible for search-and-rescue teams should always be your default option. This makes it much easier for you to be tracked down from the ground and/or located by aircraft. Also, inexperienced hikers who try to find their own way out often get themselves even more lost, exhaust themselves physically, or injure themselves. That said, there are some factors to consider before deciding to stay put.

stay-or-go-going

The first item to consider is your physical condition. Do you have any injuries or medical problems that could potentially become life-threatening within the next few days? Low on insulin? Need your asthma inhaler? Attempting to move may accelerate your injuries, but also has the potential to get you to safety faster if you’re not far from civilization. Secondly, consider whether anyone knows your approximate location, and how long you’ve been gone. If so, there’s a strong possibility that they will send for help once they realize you’re missing. Finally, consider your supplies and knowledge. If you’re not physically or mentally prepared to navigate to safety, trying to do so may get you into more trouble.

As you can see, deciding whether to stay put or keep moving is far from a cut-and-dry choice. Every situation is different, and all the variables must be carefully examined before making a final decision. However, once you have decided what’s best, you’ll need to know what to do next. OFFGRID got a hands-on tutorial on how to handle both survival strategies at Krav vs. Wild III, a wilderness survival camp hosted by the Krav Maga Worldwide Force Training Division. Instructors were made up of current and former law enforcement and military special operations forces members who have extensive survival experience. Read on to find out how to tackle each survival option.

Staying Put to Survive

If you choose to stay where you are, priority No. 1 is to find shelter. Building a good shelter is not easy, but even a shoddy one can offer protection from the elements and also provide a significant morale boost while you wait for help to arrive.

First, you’ll need to find an optimal location for your shelter. For the sake of this demonstration, we chose a clearing near a tree line and found a fallen log that would provide a natural starting point for our frame. The location makes us visible to aircraft and its partial shade prevents excessive sweating while building the shelter.

Constructing the basic framework for an A-frame shelter.

Constructing the basic framework for an A-frame shelter.

One of the simplest and sturdiest improvised shelter designs is known as an A-frame. It consists of a single roof beam, with two crossed upright supports at each end. In this case, we opted to rest one end of the roof beam on the fallen log, simplifying the design and giving it enough elevation to cover our feet.

Adding additional upright branches along the sides of the A-frame.

Adding additional upright branches along the sides of the A-frame.

Next, additional branches were added along each side, forming supports for our roofing material. Then, brush was gathered and layered on each side of the A-frame from bottom to top, ensuring water would be diverted off the shelter if it rained. Large leaves, such as palm fronds, are ideal for this purpose.

Layering foliage, such as eucalyptus and palm leaves, along the upright supports to protect against the elements.

Layering foliage, such as eucalyptus and palm leaves, along the upright supports to protect against the elements.

Placing heather and dry grass inside the shelter for insulation.

Placing heather and dry grass inside the shelter for insulation.

Finally, soft plant material was placed inside the shelter to serve as bedding. A good rule of thumb for this step is to gather as much as you think you’ll need — and then double it, since the bedding will compress considerably once you lie on top of it. This will make the shelter more comfortable and prevent loss of body heat caused by the cold ground.

After crawling inside the shelter, a large palm frond can be used to cover the entrance.

After crawling inside the shelter, a large palm frond can be used to cover the entrance.

Once you have completed your shelter, you can focus your attention on finding a viable water source, starting a fire, and searching for food. It could be days before rescue arrives, so it’s best to plan ahead and keep yourself occupied.

Navigating to Safety

So, what if you choose to find your own way to safety? This option carries a greater risk of worsening your situation, but also a greater reward — after all, in this scenario, you know your original campsite is less than a day’s hike away. Also, the fact that you have a compass and map makes navigating to safety more appealing. Although it’s more difficult to navigate successfully without these items, it can be done. (See the sidebar for more information on finding north without a compass.)

A lensatic compass, similar to those used by the U.S. military. Note the folding rear sight with lens and slotted sight in the front cover.

A lensatic compass, similar to those used by the U.S. military. Note the folding rear sight with lens and slotted sight...

First, you’ll want to pull out your compass. There are several different compass styles, but we recommend using a lensatic type, which features folding front and rear sights. They enable you to easily set a precise course to a visual landmark, such as a distinctive tree or a rock formation on the horizon.

Examining a topographical map. Changes in elevation are indicated by shading and/or contour lines.

Examining a topographical map. Changes in elevation are indicated by shading and/or contour lines.

Next, take a look at your map. In this case, we have a topographical map that indicates changes in elevation — certainly helpful, but not mandatory. Place your compass on the map and align north on your compass with north on the map. Assuming your declination is set correctly for your geographic location, you are now oriented correctly with true north. You can typically find your area’s declination printed on the map itself — our Southern California location required a 14-degree declination correction on the compass. (Keep in mind, the declination can change every year due to the constant change in Earth’s magnetic field.)

All compasses indicate magnetic north, which can differ greatly from True North (the geographical point) depending on your location. Setting correct declination by turning the outer ring on most compasses compensates for this difference.

All compasses indicate magnetic north, which can differ greatly from True North (the geographical point) depending on...

Now that you know True North, you need to triangulate your location to determine where you are on the map. Choose a visible terrain feature (such as a hilltop or saddle), identify it on your topo map, and use your compass to find an azimuth on the map toward that feature. Draw a straight line on the map along that azimuth, then repeat this process with another landmark at least 60 degrees from the first. The intersection of the two lines will indicate your approximate location.

stay-or-go-going

Once you know True North and your location on the map, set an azimuth to where you want to go. A lensatic compass can be held up to your cheek, and an azimuth can easily be set toward any landmark in its sights. Simply aim the sights at the target, then check the degree reading through the rear sight lens. This 0- to 360-degree reading is known as an azimuth. Once you have the azimuth in degrees, place the compass back on your map and draw a line in that direction. Now you know where you need to go and can move toward it safely.

Transferring the azimuth onto the topographical map with a pen.

Transferring the azimuth onto the topographical map with a pen.

Even if you don’t know where your original camp was on the map and can’t return there, these techniques can help you find a nearby roadway, body of water, or move to higher ground for visibility. However, they can be confusing to a first-timer, so it’s wise to practice these land navigation techniques as much as possible. That way, if your life someday depends on it, you’ll be ready.

Human Compass

If you’ve ever been camping or earned your orienteering merit badge as a kid, you’ve probably used a compass. Maybe you can even use one properly and know the difference between True North and magnetic north. Or perhaps you just learned how to use a map and compass by reading OFFGRID. Whatever your experience, navigation of the non-GPS kind is an important survival skill. But what happens when you don’t have a compass or the one you packed is broken? Here’s a brief look at how you can find north using nothing but a stick, a rock, and some sunlight. Note: This applies if you’re in the northern hemisphere. If you’re in the southern hemisphere, you’ll be facing south more or less.

stay-or-go-human-compass-stick

1. Place a stick upright in level ground and observe the stick’s shadow.

stay-or-go-human-compass-marker

2. Place a marker, such as a stone, at the tip of the stick’s shadow.

stay-or-go-human-compass-marker

3. Wait 10 to 15 minutes then place another marker at the shadow tip’s new location.

stay-or-go-human-compass

4. Stand with your left toe to the first marker and your right toe to the second marker. You are now facing north approximately.

Dangerous Hiking Mistakes

stay-or-go-water-supply

Lacking sufficient hydration:
Miscalculating how much water to bring is an all too common occurrence. Water is life, and you want to live — always bring more than you need.

stay-or-go-trail-hiking

Underestimating trail difficulty:
Beginners especially tend to overrate their hiking abilities. Honestly evaluate your fitness level, research the trail before you hike, and start out on easier trails until you can work your way up to more difficult ones.

stay-or-go-survival-supplies

Failing to prepare is preparing to fail:
Put some forethought into what you might need if things go awry. Sure, it’s warm at the trailhead, but up near the peak the temperature might drop by 20 or more degrees. What if you twist your ankle? Do you have extra water or other provisions?

stay-or-go-hiking-solo

Having a lone wolf attitude:
If you hike solo, be sure to notify someone of where you’re going and how long you expect to be gone. Personal locater beacons are also a smart choice to carry.

stay-or-go-marked-trail

Wandering off-trail:
Staying on marked trails is the safest way to go. Conversely, going off-trail can be a quick way to get lost or injured. If you do choose to go off the beaten path, be sure you are prepared for the added dangers and unexpected consequences.

Source
Krav Maga Worldwide Force Training Division > www.kravmaga.com


What If You Get Lost in the Backcountry?

My ankle felt like it was on fire. I was on my back. Points of pain competed for attention across my entire body. Through the clearing dust, I could see the spot where the screaming originated. The screams came from her. I looked up at my girlfriend’s face, normally beautiful, now twisted into a red and unfamiliar mask of fear and surprise. I had fallen. And I was hurt. Then the full scope of the situation dawned on me. We were in a remote and unforgiving area. We were also lost. Lost, hurt, alone, and darkness would be upon us soon. The nauseating dread that was growing in my belly was the complete opposite of the excitement I had felt just hours before driving to the trail head to “test our skills.” Playtime’s over, kids, I thought to myself grimly; this just went from pretend to real.

The latest edition of “What If?” poses this question: What do you do if your easy, daylong hike has turned into a life-threatening survival situation after you’ve gotten lost on the trail? While this scenario might not seem as thrilling as a kidnapping (see OFFGRID’s Summer 2014 issue), it’s certainly far more likely and just as fatal. So, for answers, OFFGRID asked me and two other outdoor enthusiasts for our approach to handling the aforementioned scenario.

With us is our “average Joe,” Ryan Lee Price, a freelance journalist and self-taught survivalist who has contributed to the “SHTF” column in our sister publication, RECOIL. Next is our military vet, Len Waldron, a former U.S. Army infantry officer who grew up hunting in the hills and fishing along the Mississippi River. He has a wealth of hard-earned outdoor experience. As for myself, I have been a survival instructor for the past 18 years and am the author of a new book on survival and emergency preparedness, Prepare for Anything. Read on to find out how each of us would handle this “What if?” situation.

The Scenario

Survival Situation
Lost in the backcountry

Your Crew
2 adults

Location
Mount San Antonio Loop Trail, California

Elevation Gain
4,000 feet to the summit, which is at 10,000-plus feet

Season
Autumn

Weather
Partly sunny, highs in the mid 60s F and lows in the 30s F

You’re a fit 30-something who enjoys living in Los Angeles. But, you realize the need to be prepared for any emergency, be it natural or manmade. You understand the concept of “bugging out” and want to practice by loading up a one-day bug-out bag and going on a hike. You enlist your longtime girlfriend to do the same. Though she’s of only average athletic ability and not a prepper, she’s willing and able.

Things go well as you ascend Mount San Antonio Loop Trail, known locally as Mount Baldy, until you reach the Devil’s Backbone, the final portion before the summit; it tests your endurance and athleticism. You chug more water than expected, going through two-thirds of your water supply already. Your girlfriend has downed half of her water supply. After four hours, you finally reach the summit, and it’s an amazing view. You’re literally above the clouds.

what-if-get-lost-in-the-backcountry-fall

After resting, taking photos, and eating sandwiches, you descend. About an hour into it, you noticed the trail looking less and less traveled. Another hour goes by and you see no clear paths, zero signage, or any clues to the base of the trail. Suddenly, you roll your ankle on some loose gravel. The momentum of being on the steep decline sends you tumbling down in a violent heap 10 yards below. Once the screaming and shock subside, your girlfriend helps you assess the damage: you’ve suffered many bruises, several cuts, a banged-up knee, a sore wrist, and a severely sprained ankle.

You know you can’t continue the descent on one leg, but your girlfriend can’t carry you down either. Nor does she have the experience to go on solo to call for help. With the sun getting closer to the horizon, the alternative frightens you: being lost and stranded on the mountain overnight. It can be extremely dangerous, especially with the temperatures dipping close to freezing. So, what do you do?

Average Joe: Ryan Lee Price’s Approach

Now I had done it. I was pretty banged up after slipping on that rock, but nothing too serious that would require a trip to the hospital. The rolled ankle was the worst of it, though. But there’s no way I was walking out of here on my own, and Kelly isn’t strong enough to carry me. We were stuck, at least for a while. We talked a little about her heading down alone to get help, but she was hesitant to do so. There was no longer a trail to be seen. It just vanished into the brush. No question about it: We were lost. And with the sun dipping toward the horizon, it was about to not only get dark, but also get really cold quick.

We weighed our options: Make a splint for my ankle and hobble back up toward where we think the trail is, or stay here, build a fire, and endure the night. Since it would be nearly impossible to find the trail again in the dark, even with flashlights, we decided on the latter. Plus, maybe by morning, my ankle might improve enough to walk on it.

Hiking in the mountains during autumn is like a double-edged sword. On one hand, it’s beautiful, but on the other, it’s very dry. All of the creek beds we had passed that day were dry as a bone. With just a little water left between us, we have a significantly short deadline to either be rescued or hike out. There was no finding water, no hunting for food, and no crafting of intricate survival shelters.

What was especially unnerving as we said farewell to the sun, however, was that we could see the city lights in the distance, knowing that the ski lift parking lot at the base of the trail had to be only some miles away…

I left my boot on my rolled ankle to help contain the swelling; plus, if I took it off, I would never be able to put it back on again if I had to. Kelly gathered some loose twigs, leaves, and small branches, and clearing a space at the base of a large boulder nearby. I broke out the mag rod fire-starter, and the dry kindling ignited after only a few slashes. The fire felt good, and the light reflecting off of the boulder kept up our spirits — especially considering we were starving. The sandwiches we ate for lunch were our only real meals. Not thinking that we’d actually be in a life-and-death situation, we had only energy bars left in our go-bags. We felt it was best to save those for morning, when we would need them most. For now, I was hoping the smoke from the fire would alert someone — brushfires in Southern California are always a serious concern, so there are people whose jobs it is to watch for fire. Perhaps they’re watching.

Darkness settled around us quickly and the cold soon followed. We had long pants and jackets, which staved off some of the chill. But as my watch clicked past midnight, we decided to stoke the fire with another armful of sticks Kelly gathered, put on the ponchos to keep off any morning moisture, and get as close together as possible, conserving body heat until morning.

Neither of us slept much, what with the sounds of nature crashing around us and the possible impending doom looming on the horizon. The fire was warm, but we must have slept just long enough for it to die out about an hour before the sun came up. Man, it was cold! Fortunately, neither of us succumbed to hypothermia.

what-if-get-lost-in-the-backcountry-injured-ankle

My ankle wasn’t any better, though, but we couldn’t sit around any longer waiting for someone to come along. Let’s face it, we had to get back to the main trail, and I had to do it on my own power, as much as possible. And that meant splinting my ankle with two long sticks, both of our belts, and my jacket as padding. The point was to transfer the weight from my foot to the base of my knee, and with the help of a longer branch to act as a crutch (padded with Kelly’s jacket), I was able to move, albeit slowly and excruciatingly.

We ate the energy bars and began the long, arduous hike back up the hill toward where we thought the trail should be, or at least in that direction. The plan was to walk northwest toward the summit again, where we’d hope to find the Baldy Bowl trail or run into another hiker, whichever came first. The sun was warmer than the previous day, and we drank what was left of our water sparingly. Kelly was a big help, guiding me over some of the more difficult terrain, but the largest hurdle to overcome was the lack of water. We drank so freely coming up the mountain that we didn’t leave much if trouble found us. Kelly had about two or three sips left and I was down to nothing. The fear of dehydration crept into my mind. Was the headache creeping across my braincase brought on by sleeping awkwardly on a pile of rocks or from not enough water (which could lead to debilitating side effects and, eventually, death)? I decided to keep that question to myself. No need to worry Kelly while she was focusing her strength on helping me down the trail.

We kept our eyes open for the Sierra Club Ski Hut. It was built in the 1930s and has water piped right into it from a local spring. Odds would be good that someone would be there, but it isn’t directly on the trail. As we came out of a stand of pine, we were overlooking the Baldy Bowl itself, about a mile from the summit. We had at least found our bearings, as just below us was the trail, We were elated to see several small colored dots, hats, and backpacks of fellow hikers.

Overall, it was a close call. Had the weather turned for the worse or if I had severely broken a bone or was knocked unconscious, we would have been in a terrible fix. We were prepared for what came at us, but we could have done a better job of packing more useful items. Luckily, we stayed calm, treated the situation as just a problem that needed patience, clear headedness, and a solution, and found the way down by going up. The hikers we met had some water for us and a phone with a signal. A couple hours later, I was helped down to the trailhead by forest personnel.
Kelly broke up with me soon thereafter. Oh well, I’ll survive that too, I guess.

Military Veteran: Len Waldron’s Approach

After this weekend, I may have to put a ring on it. Sophie, my girlfriend of six years, saved both our lives. The Mount Baldy/San Antonio trails broke my body, but strengthened our relationship. Nothing like immobility, uncontrollable swelling, and potential hypothermia to tease intimacy out of man.

Sophie is a soft-hearted hard-body who is prone to bringing random foster kittens and incontinent Chihuahuas to stay at our house for weeks at a time. In her day job, she’s a graphic design artist for an advertising firm in L.A. When she’s not trail-running or finding yet another stray to rehabilitate, she works on keeping me from reverting to my Teutonic, linear self. She’s a good balance for me, but our differences sometimes blow things up, just like any good couple.

Both embarrassed at my fall and the situation it put us in, I was in no mood for Sophie the two-legged gazelle to ask me “why” I fell, but I just marked it down to her female need to understand. I was more concerned about the setting sun and dropping temperatures. Absent the radiant heat of the sun, the altitude and arid atmosphere will suck the heat right out of a moist body. My lack of mobility made a slow hike down the darkening mountain out of the question. Sophie and I quickly reached the conclusion that we were in hunker-down mode.

The first consideration was finding a location that gave us some protection from the prevailing winds that were ripping across the rock faces. We had very little water — but hypothermia would kill us before dehydration, so shelter and a fire was the priority. If it provided visibility from the air or the ground, so much the better, but we were in real danger from the falling temperature. I managed to fall on one of the steeper sections of the hike, so there was nothing useful I could just hop over to.

Sophie used the ace bandage in our first-aid kit to wrap my ankle. I had already re-tightened my 3/4-length boot for added support, but it did little to help. It was a severe sprain, and my foot was useless. I stealthily broke into the snivel packs of ibuprofen in the first-aid kit after Sophie walked down the slope to scout for a shelter site. I managed to scratch around on the ground for dried grass, pine needles, pine cones, and small sticks to start a fire. I was about as mobile as a sea lion on a yacht dock, but managed to stuff a plastic grocery bag I brought with me full of tinder and a few sticks of kindling. I also managed to whittle a spruce limb to use as a walking stick. It would have been smarter to have started out with one of those.

what-if-get-lost-in-the-backcountry-campfire

Sophie returned smiling and appraised my bag full of scrapings.

“I found a village,” she said.

“I’m sorry. What?”

“I found a village. It’s right down there. I think we should stay there tonight.”

“Are there people in this village?”

“No, they’ve been gone for awhile, but there is still some stuff there.”

I was in no position to argue, so we loaded up our packs, and with a walking stick in my right hand and Sophie under my left arm, I hopped and dragged my sorry ass down to the “village.”

Sophie’s village was actually an old mining camp and what we would later learn was the ruins of the Gold Dollar Mine. Rusted mining detritus lay strewn about, but there were two key features, an old iron stove and a wind break built into a cut in the rocks. What seemed like a good idea at first proved to be less useful. The stove would be a great way to create and control heat, but it was atop a flat platform made from old lumber slabs and rough cut planks exposed to the wind. We opted for getting a fire started within the windbreak.

Though I had brought a magnesium fire-starter, I used the “matches” from the bandage box. Cardboard containers make great fire-starting material along with collected tinder. (Note: Save toilet paper for its intended purpose. You may be tempted to burn it, but there are more substitutes for tinder than for TP, so choose wisely.) Sophie scouted around for larger pieces of wood we could use to fuel our fire. I encouraged her to get much more than we would need. This of course involved a debate about what constituted good firewood and how much was enough, but we managed to find a workable supply.

As the sun descended, so did the temperature and our sweat-soaked clothing was getting cold. Sophie wandered off, collecting firewood as I worked up the fire. After several runs to collect large hunks of wood, she returned with two armfuls of long, thin limbs.

“Sophie, we don’t need those anymore; the fire is going,” I told her. “We need bigger fuel logs.”

“These aren’t for the fire,” she remarked.

“Ok, I’ll play, my dear, what are they for.”

“Laundry”

“Laundry?”

“Yes. Laundry.”

In the fading light of day, Sophie used her belt to lash together a makeshift tripod, stripped down naked except for her hiking boots, and proceeded to dry her clothes over the fire. So here I was with a bum ankle, yucca cuts, swelling bruises, and no water — but a girlfriend who despite of our circumstances found a way to behave like a resourceful pagan wildling. Things were looking up.

Staying close to the flames, she twirled around, keeping her parts warm while her clothes dried out. She then peeled my shirt and pants off as well. After our clothes dried, we bundled back up in our clothes and wrapped up together in the poncho, using our shared body heat to augment the fire. I ate the “ham slice in natural juices” MRE that I couldn’t bring myself to open earlier during lunch. Sophie ate one of the two power bars we still carried.

The night was very cold and uncomfortable. The increased pain and swelling kept me awake, but it also prevented me from letting the fire get too low. We found some rusted steel scraps that we placed opposite us next to the fire, to help direct the heat toward us. Though Sophie was completely inside the poncho, I kept my head and one arm out so I could tend the fire. She slept most of the night and only kicked my ankle a few times.

The morning arrived, and we had decisions to make. We only had enough water to keep our mouths wet, and that was worrisome. We debated various courses of action, but thankfully shuttered the plans when a California Search and Rescue pair appeared. My OCD habits had helped us after all. Before departing, I had taped a 3×5-inch notecard with our names and route to the National Park Activity Pass hanging from the rear view mirror of my Land Cruiser. Sophie’s sister had called the Park Service when she didn’t return, and our navigation issues were pathetically predictable. More water and a functioning GPS would have been nice, but ultimately, a decisive decision to get heat and shelter along with communicating our travel plans saved us.
I was charged with a misdemeanor and fined $1,000 for having an unauthorized campfire in the park during the dry time of the year. Evidently nudity in the park is also against the law and carries the same fine…but that’s our little secret.

Survival Expert: Tim MacWelch’s Approach

Ask and ye shall receive, I thought to myself. I didn’t want to actually say it in front of my frightened girlfriend and make things worse by saying something stupid. But I also couldn’t ignore the irony of our predicament: We had gone out to test our gear and self-reliance skills, and now we have no choice but to rely upon them. We could die up here without them. Or maybe even with them.

As my ankle, wrist, and knee ached, I sat there realizing that this was the most basic emergency situation that outdoor enthusiasts encounter. We were lost, I was hurt, and evening was falling — this was survival 101. We had to avoid panic and get to work if we were going to make it through the night.

I told my girlfriend in a matter-of-fact way about the priorities of survival, and that these priorities are like a checklist, helping us to handle the worst problem first. Shelter was top priority then came water. We also needed a fire, which could warm us and act as a signal for help. Food was a low priority, but I was relieved to remember that we had packed some. We laid out our gear and took inventory. The ponchos and our jackets were the only shelter that we brought with us. I couldn’t walk or crawl to help her build any kind of shelter, and there wasn’t much to work with anyway. Dirt, sand, rocks, and a few bushes were all we had for company out there.

The first big hole in our bug-out plan was now obvious. We should have had sleeping bags, space blankets, or some other source of warmth. Ponchos would keep the rain off, but they would do little to keep us warm.

The next (and almost laughable) weak point was the lack of water. We each had two empty bottles in that dry climate. There should have been factory-filled bottles of water in those BOBs. They would have lasted for months and still been safe to drink. It was very demoralizing to find these mistakes the hard way. But there was no time or reason to dwell on it. We needed warmth quickly. I knew that hypothermia could kill within hours, and we both knew that we were in a place that became very cold at night.

With our signal-less and virtually useless phones, there was no way to call for help. We even tried texting, but the messages wouldn’t go through. There was no way to reach out to the world, except perhaps for a signal fire. We did have fire-starting gear in our bags, and right then, it seemed like the most valuable commodity we had.

With the sun touching the horizon, we started to work on our fire. My girlfriend began gathering sticks, dead grass, and bigger pieces of wood from the rocky and desolate landscape, while I used my knife to shave magnesium off the fire-starter block. As I worked, I found myself wishing for a lighter. There was no real benefit to the magnesium block, and at that moment, I would have traded anything for a simple butane lighter. In the light of the setting sun, I tried several times to get the magnesium shavings lit. In my haste, with my throbbing wrist and the stress of the situation, I kept knocking the magnesium shavings out of the tinder. Finally, I tried throwing sparks directly into the grass tinder. Once a spark hit the fluffy seed down at the top of a grass stalk, the fire erupted. The grass burned so fast that I was afraid it would be consumed before the small sticks began to light. Thankfully, the dry conditions worked in our favor and the twigs began to burn. The fire was soon established. Our makeshift campsite on the mountainside had good visibility, and I hoped that if we could see out, then others could see us.

The fire was a game-changer. We both knew that much. And naturally, we hunkered close to it. But as soon as the sun disappeared, the air temperature started to drop. We got out our flashlights. Mine wasn’t working. Frustrated, I hurled my torch as hard as I could into the darkness. “It’s OK,” my girlfriend said, trying to console me. “We have one that works.”

This cooled my blood and set me thinking again. I knew how dangerous panic could be in an emergency, but I never realized how valuable morale was. And it hit me: nothing boosts morale like food. Normally, we would have eaten dinner hours ago. I knew that we’d need all of our strength to make it through the night, so I suggested we share one of our two energy bars even though they were our only food rations left.

As we had a “picnic” of peanut and chocolate, the reality of the situation was settling. Our fake bug-out simulation was now a real life-or-death survival scenario. We finished the bar and drained the last of the water. My girlfriend milled around in the dwindling twilight to find a few more dead sticks from the sparse brush of the surroundings, and then we snuggled in by the fire. Tomorrow, we would improvise a crutch to get me moving again and use the compass to find our way out of there. If we could just hold on until morning.

The hours passed and the stars brightened over our heads. Our breath was steaming and we were both shivering, despite sitting next to a fire and being wrapped in our ponchos. Our firewood pile ran low, and night hadn’t reached its coldest point yet. We periodically used the flashlight as a beacon, my girlfriend standing and rotating it slowly like the beam of a lighthouse. From our high vantage point, we could see the lights of distant scattered homes or buildings, but they were all very far away. We huddled together and prayed that someone could see us.

My head was nodding, which scared me. I couldn’t tell if it was the late hour or the hypothermia that was making me want to go to sleep so badly. Maybe it was both. I knew that hypothermia made you sleepy…toward the end. And as my head sank again, it seemed like a vivid dream was taking hold. I heard someone yell “Hey!” It was a man’s voice, a stranger’s voice. “Hey!” the voice called again. I looked up and saw the beam of a flashlight bobbing up and down, coming toward us. “You’re not supposed to have fires up here,” the man said.

I tried to stand, but the pain from my injuries shot through my joints. “Are you two alright?” the man asked. I could see him better now, a man in a tan uniform — a park ranger! “Thank God,” I replied.
The ranger told us that his truck was just 50 yards away on a fire road, and he left it running with the heat on. We walked slowly, huddled together. I leaned hard on the ranger’s shoulder, not caring if he minded. It was the only way I could walk. Soon we saw the headlights of the truck. The bumpy ride back to the station seemed like a strange dream, but a good one. I had thought we were going to die, but we didn’t. We were not as prepared or as invulnerable as we thought. But through a little good luck scattered among the bad, our signal fire in a high place, and a fortuitous ranger patrol, we had made it.
Conclusion

This scenario was a tricky one to navigate, especially with minimal supplies. In bleak environments, survival is tough, even for the pros. Beginners would need every advantage possible when entering these types of terrain. You shouldn’t ever expect to find what you need out there, especially things like shelter and water. You need to bring it with you.

Our characters could have easily died in the first night of this proposed scenario, without bringing more substantial shelter.  From a bug-out standpoint, the gear was painfully inadequate, and this test was an epic failure. Just because you label a backpack with the term “BOB” doesn’t mean that it can save you. To build a decent BOB, you’ll want to mirror the supplies you’d need for a backpacking trip, and then adjust them to fit the climate. Add more water for arid conditions. Add more items for warmth in cold climates. You need a self-contained and self-reliant system to be able to bug out effectively, even for a short period of time.

Hopefully, this story will serve as a cautionary tale for those who are overconfident and underprepared. You need to have the right tools for any job. And when that job is survival, you’d better have plenty of those tools and know exactly how to use them.