Let's face it: although action movies are often entertaining, they also have a tendency to be highly unrealistic. We're not just talking about the sideways-diving dual-wielding slow-mo pistol fights found in John Woo films — even purportedly realistic action and war movies sometimes feature goofy physics and laughably bad firearms technique.
In “16 Blocks”, Bruce Willis is shown aiming a jammed Glock. In the next shot, it continues firing...
We can understand why this is the norm in Hollywood, since fantasy and entertainment value sell more movie tickets than pure realism. It's a lot more dramatic when a grenade launches the villain cartwheeling into the air with a massive fireball, or when a shotgun blast knocks a henchman back 20 feet through two plate glass windows and a fruit stand. While you may see the clip below from Commando and roll your eyes, you'll probably also find Arnie's muscle-bound blank-firing antics at least a little fun to watch.
However, not all movies are unrealistic when it comes to firearms. A select few films put in the time and effort to maintain a sense of authenticity, while still managing to remain entertaining. Director Michael Mann has received praise for his work on the classic heist film Heat, as well as the action thriller Collateral. In Collateral, Tom Cruise plays a ruthless and highly-skilled hitman who has been hired to kill several individuals in a single night.
Tom Cruise plays a hardened contract killer named Vincent in the 2004 film “Collateral”.
In order to determine if the gunfights in Collateral are based in reality, firearms instructor and Special Operations veteran Larry Vickers analyzed a famous alleyway scene from the movie. In this “Shot for Shot” video, Vickers also recreates the exact technique Cruise used — drawing from concealment, deflecting the mugger's gun with his free hand, firing two rounds from retention, and transitioning to put three more rounds into the next threat.
Vickers calls this “one of the best movie gunplay scenes ever”. Do you agree? If not, what's your favorite movie gunfight scene, and why?
It doesn't take much to turn the tide in a survival situation. When it comes to starting a fire, collecting food and water, or navigating to safety, even a handful of small tools can provide a tremendous advantage. While it's certainly possible to survive bare-handed, this will consume far more time and energy than would be required with a proper set of resources. This realization led one veteran to create Superesse Straps, a company that hand-makes miniature survival kits for everyday carry.
The new Superesse patch kit can contain a variety of different survival tools.
Superesse Straps is known primarily for its paracord survival bracelets, such as the Bug-Out Bracelet we reviewed in the past. The company has recently expanded its line into keychains, neck knife lanyards, and handkerchiefs. More recently, Superesse announced a new type of discreet EDC survival kit: the Superesse Morale Patch Kit.
The new Superesse morale patch kits consist of a standard-size 3-inch by 2-inch velcro patch, with a concealed slit cut on the back side. This offers a small compartment that can be filled with a variety of mini survival tools, ranging from fire-starters and water purification tablets to handcuff keys and fishing kits. The standard Superesse Morale Patch Kit uses a clearly-labeled patch for quick identification, but flag patches and other inconspicuous designs are also available.
As for the kit contents, Superesse offers 13 different pre-built configurations to choose from, or you can request a custom set of tools. Here's a breakdown of the standard 13 patch kits, and some of the notable items in each:
Survival – Water purification tab, fish hook and line, P38 tool, mini surgical blade
Clear vision is essential in any survival situation, since it allows you to observe, orient, decide, and then act on what's around you. In the dark of night or a pitch-black room, it can be difficult to accomplish any of those tasks reliably, so illumination is key.
However, there's one particular time when visibility is almost guaranteed to make the difference between life and death: self-defense with a firearm. If you can't see your attacker clearly, you may hesitate to fire or miss your target completely; and with devastating consequences. Worse, misidentification of an innocent as a threat may lead to a different set of devastating consequences.
Therefore, we expanded our HighLights guide for this important theme, selecting 10 pistol flashlights to test and review. These lights offer diverse sizes, features, controls, and prices, so you should be able to find one that fits your specific needs. For evaluation purposes, we selected lights that fit the most popular pistol on the market, the Glock 19. If you own or carry a different gun, that's not a problem — many of these weapon-mounted lights (WMLs) are universal-fit, and the remaining few offer similar variants that fit other guns. Keep in mind, holster selection can be limited for light-bearing pistols, but it's a secondary concern for bedside guns.
Most importantly, each of these lights can help you identify a threat in the shadows and decide if you need to pull the trigger. No other type of flashlight carries such a heavy burden.
Make & Model - Aimkon HiLight P10S Claimed Max Brightness - 300 lumens as shown (500 for newer models) Claimed Max Runtime - 55 minutes Overall Length - 3 inches Weight with Batteries - 2.8 ounces Battery - 1x CR123 (included) Controls - Push-through forefinger switch alternates between two modes Output Modes - Constant-on, strobe Construction / Mounting - Aluminum, quick-detach lever MSRP - $38 as shown; $55 for new 500-lumen version URL - http://www.aimkon.com
A budget light with basic features. It mounts easily via a quick-detach lever, snapping into place on the pistol's rail.
Make & Model - Crimson Trace LTG-736 Lightguard for Glock Claimed Max Brightness - 100 lumens Claimed Max Runtime - 2 hours Overall Length - 4.5 inches Weight with Batteries - 1.5 ounces Battery - 1x CR2 (included) Controls - Master on-off lockout switch, finger groove pressure pad Output Modes - Momentary-on only Construction / Mounting - Polymer, two hex screws MSRP - $179 URL - http://www.crimsontrace.com
This contoured light is designed specifically for full-size and compact Glock models, but variants are available for the 1911, Springfield Armory XD, and Smith & Wesson M&P.
Make & Model - Inforce Glock APL Claimed Max Brightness - 200 lumens Claimed Max Runtime - 1.5 hours Overall Length - 3 inches Weight with Batteries - 2.8 ounces Battery - 1x CR123 (included) Controls - Ambidextrous paddle switches Output Modes - Constant-on, momentary-on Construction / Mounting - Polymer, flathead screw MSRP - $175 URL - http://www.inforce-mil.com
If you're not looking for tons of bells and whistles and want a straightforward, easy-to-operate pistol light, the InForce APL might be just what you're looking for.
Make & Model - Viridian X5L Gen 2 Tactical Light with Green Laser Claimed Max Brightness - 224 lumens Claimed Max Runtime - 1 hour with laser and light, unlisted for light only Overall Length - 2.8 inches Weight with Batteries - 3.3 ounces Battery - 1x CR123 (included) Controls - Ambidextrous forefinger buttons Output Modes - Constant-on or momentary-on activation with five modes. Light, laser, light with laser, strobe light with constant-on laser, pulsing laser, constant-on light with pulsing laser Construction / Mounting - Aluminum and Zytel polymer, flathead/thumb screw MSRP - $409 URL - http://www.viridiangreenlaser.com
Let's get this out of the way first — this light/laser combination costs more than $400.
During a survival situation, exposure to the elements is one of the fastest ways to end up in trouble (or dead). Often, building a shelter is the top priority for survival in the wilderness, even taking precedence over finding food or water. Without adequate protection from the rain, wind, or snow, hypothermia can set in quickly — even in warmer climates.
In the past, we've discussed various forms of improvised survival shelters. While all of these structures provide protection from the elements, they're also typically built at or below ground level. This can be a problem in certain environments, such as tropical rainforests, because all sorts of creepy-crawlies roam the ground at night. Sleeping on the ground can lead to numerous issues:
Loss of sleep due to insect bites and other pest-related annoyances
Soaked bedding if heavy rainfall occurs
Potential danger from snakes, scorpions, or other small nocturnal predators
Therefore, it's wise to build a shelter with an elevated sleeping platform to alleviate these issues. In his latest video, Primitive Technology demonstrates how to construct a “bed shed” elevated shelter. Sticking with his typical format, he doesn't say a word or use any modern tools. He doesn't even wear shoes.
This project required nothing more than wood, vines, dry grasses, sharp stones, patience and skill. The end result is impressive and actually looks quite comfy, especially once he adds a small fire pit beneath the sleeping platform to generate heat. Check out the full video below:
Protein is one of the human body's core components. This substance makes up approximately 15% of an average person's total body weight, acting as the major substance for muscle cell growth and repair. Protein is also composed of smaller building blocks known as amino acids, which are necessary for the production of many key bodily substances — for example, immune system antibodies, digestive enzymes, and hormones.
The human body can produce some amino acids on its own, but other amino acids must come from the protein in foods we eat. These are known as essential amino acids, and they typically are found in animal-based sources of protein, such as meat, fish, poultry, eggs, or dairy. Many other beneficial amino acids are available through plant-based protein sources, such as beans and legumes, nuts, seeds, grains, and fruits/vegetables.
According to the Harvard School of Public Health, we “need to eat a variety of protein-containing foods each day in order to get all the amino acids needed to make new protein.” Failure to consume enough protein can lead to a condition known as Kwashiorkor, which “often occurs during a drought or other natural disaster, or during political unrest”, according to the U.S. National Library of Medicine.
In order to vary and maximize your protein intake, check out the following infographic. It contains 20 protein-rich foods to incorporate into your diet:
Several of these foods, such as dry beans, nuts, peanut butter, and beef jerky have a long shelf-life. For more shelf-stable food options, check out our article on shelf-stable survival food. Other sources of protein can be obtained in a survival situation by learning to hunt or fish. Either way, remember to keep your protein sources varied as much as possible.
Including a knife as part of your every-day carry is pretty much a no-brainer. This cutting tool is useful for a nearly-endless list of tasks, whether you're opening boxes at work or splitting firewood in a survival situation. However, let's be real — it's not always all about pure functionality. It's nice to have a knife that both looks cool and cuts effortlessly. If that weren't the case, more of us would end up carrying around simple box cutters, and there wouldn't be as much of a market for high-dollar custom blades.
The cool splatter-finish on this Zombie Tools Vakra kukri was created through careful application of ferric chloride...
So, what do you do if you have a knife that works well, but is a bit aesthetically boring? You could retire it and buy a new one, or you could spend a little time and learn to customize your existing knife. Time-tested methods like acid etching and stonewashing are frequently used by major knife manufacturers, and with a little practice and around $100 in materials, you can use these techniques as well.
The handle on this Zero Tolerance 0630 is made from finely-stonewashed titanium.
WARNING: Before you begin refinishing any blade, take every safety precaution. Be careful to ventilate your work area and wear protective gear. Research the type of steel and acid you'll be using, and any dangerous interactions they may have. Remember that you're dealing with powerful acid and/or fast-moving stone fragments, so protect your eyes and skin. If you don't take these precautions and hurt yourself, don't blame us. This is not an exhaustive guide — we encourage doing additional research to ensure your own safety.
Acid Etching
Acid etching makes use of a chemical reaction between an acidic etchant solution and the steel of your blade. There are many variables here, such as the type of steel used, the type of acid applied, and the amount of time the blade is treated. Etching acids can range from powerful hydrochloric or sulfuric acid to much weaker acids — even household vinegar, citrus fruit, or mustard can be used effectively.
In the video linked above, YouTuber TheSmokinApe acid-etches an ESEE blade with French's mustard. Yum.
However, for the purposes of this guide, we'll discuss one of the most common acid etching solutions in the knife industry: ferric chloride. This etchant is available from most electronic supply stores for about $15 per quart, usually under the name PCB etchant (used for acid-etching circuit boards). Warning: while ferric chloride works well on steel, DO NOT use it with aluminum parts, as it can create a dangerous reaction.Again, research your acid and metal ahead of time to avoid unwanted reactions.
Above:Zombie Tools uses ferric chloride solution to acid etch its blades, yielding a dark and blotchy finish. You shouldn't expect to replicate this exact look without some serious trial and error, especially since Zombie Tools keeps the exact process they use on these blades a trade secret. However, basic acid-etching is also an approachable DIY skill.
In the video at the end of this article, Smock Knives demonstrates both DIY acid etching and stonewashing.
Stonewashing
Often heard in the context of denim fabric and jeans, stonewashing (also called tumble finishing) is a technique that works exactly as you'd imagine — an item is washed in tumbling or vibrating container with water, soap, and an abrasive material. With fabric, this produces a lighter, well-worn appearance. With metal, it can create anything from a finely-textured matte finish to a rough scratched-up look.
Above: In our recent tour of the Zero Tolerance knives HQ, we saw how the company uses large industrial machines to stonewash its blades. On a much smaller scale, it's possible to use a similar technique in your own garage.
These Zero Tolerance blades were recently stonewashed, and will soon be sharpened.
The end result of stonewashing is highly-dependent on both tumble intensity and the media (i.e. stones) used. Extremely fine media, such as sand or walnut shell fragments, will produce an even matte finish — this is often considered tumble polishing rather than a true stonewash.
A Kershaw knife handle scale, before (top) and after bead blasting (bottom).
Bead blasting or sandblasting, which fires these abrasives from a pressurized nozzle, is also used to achieve these lighter finishes. However, these techniques will require an air compressor and media blasting setup, which can be expensive. So, we'll be focusing on the rougher side of the spectrum, as it's easier and less costly for beginners.
Stonewashing can be accomplished with under $100 in materials, and these items can be reused on future projects.
Heavier stonewashing media typically consists of literal stones or ceramic pieces, which produce a rougher worn appearance. Increasing the vibration or tumbling intensity or adding unevenly-shaped natural stones can enhance the roughness of this finish.
Materials List
So, what do you need to acid etch and stonewash a knife? Here's a quick breakdown.
Acid Etch:
Protective gloves/eyewear and a well-ventilated work area
Acidic etching solution such as pre-diluted ferric chloride, available on Amazon or at local electronics stores – $15
Acid-etch resist substance, such as nail polish, vaseline, or vinyl stickers
Two plastic or glass containers, one for acid and the other full of water
Baking soda to neutralize acid
Coat hanger or wire
Optional: sandpaper, cotton swabs
Other metal parts, such as handle scales, can be stonewashed as well. This handle was stonewashed, then anodized.
Optional: plastic bottle with additional stones (for manual stonewashing)
Learn the Techniques
Once you have these materials, the techniques are quite simple. Some fine-tuning and experimentation will be necessary to get the finish you're looking for, so start out with an inexpensive knife. The following video from Smock Knives shows how to perform the DIY acid etch and stonewash process on your blade (or handle, for that matter). We'll also summarize the steps below.
Acid Etch:
Disassemble your knife, and thoroughly clean and dry the part you're going to etch (blade, handle, or clip). Even a single fingerprint will effect your acid etch, so be cautious.
Fill a glass jar with enough ferric chloride to cover the metal part.
Apply resist substance such as nail polish or vaseline to coat any sensitive areas, namely the pivot point, detent, and lock face. This can also be used to paint stripes, lettering, or splatter designs on the blade — feel free to get creative.
Use a wire to lower the part into the acid, being careful NOT to touch the acid. (Alternate method: apply acid to steel in small quantities using cotton swabs, rather than submerging the entire part.)
Leave the part submerged for about 5-15 minutes. Longer immersion will darken and remove more metal.
Carefully remove the knife with your wire, and submerge it in water, agitating to rinse. Apply baking soda to neutralize the acid. Be sure the acid has been thoroughly neutralized and rinsed before touching any item it came into contact with.
Clean the resist substance from the blade. Optional: use sandpaper to remove the resist material and add brushed texture to the blade.
Optional: repeat steps 3 through 7 to etch away more metal.
Store your acid in a safe and sealed plastic container marked “DANGER POISON” for future use.
Stonewash:
Stonewashing can be used on its own, or applied after acid etching for a darker worn appearance.
Set up your vibratory tumbler, and fill it partially with ceramic stones or other media.
Add some water and a small amount of dish soap to lubricate the media.
Insert your metal part, and power up the tumbler. Run the tumbler as long as needed to achieve your desired finish.
Optional: Insert the part into a sealed plastic jug with stonewashing media, water, and soap. Manually shake, or wrap in towels and place in a clothes dryer on “no heat” setting. This can produce a rougher or more uneven finish.
After following the steps in this article, a reader named Alex sent us the below before-and-after photo of his Spyderco. We'd say it turned out pretty cool — nice work, Alex.
Planning to try refinishing one of your knives? We'd love to see the results. Snap some photos and email them to me.
When it comes to survival gear, versatility is a major concern. If you have a tool that works extremely well in one specific setting but struggles in all other cases, it's probably too specialized to be of much use in the long run. This is why we often carry compact multi-tools instead of lugging around a toolbox full of single-use items.
Just like these other tools, flashlights offer a wide range of shapes, sizes, and intended purposes. However, if you're going to rely on a single flashlight for every-day carry or emergency use, it needs to be versatile enough to provide the illumination you need in a variety of settings. This desire for maximum versatility led to the development of flashlights with beam-focusing optics. This category of lights features an adjustable lens, which moves closer to or further from the LED light source, changing the beam angle on demand.
Fenix has recently announced that it will be offering a line of beam-focusing flashlights for 2017. The new Fenix FD Series is launching with two lights: the FD30 and the FD41.
The FD30 (seen here) and the FD41 are both designed for pocket carry and EDC use.
Both the Fenix FD30 and FD41 are constructed from tough anodized aluminum, which is impact-resistant to 1 meter drops and IP68 waterproof to 2 meter depth. Both lights also produce a maximum of 900 lumens, and are controlled by a combination of two switches:
Tail cap switch – Turns the light on and off, with a half-press for momentary mode and a full-press for constant-on.
Side switch – Cycles through five output modes: Turbo (900 lumens), High (350 lumens), Medium (150 lumens), Low (10 lumens), Strobe
These lights also offer dual-battery compatibility, and can run on a single rechargeable 18650 lithium cell or two CR123A batteries. To adjust the optical lens and beam pattern, the ridged focusing ring is twisted clockwise or counter-clockwise.
The new Fenix lights share many functional similarities, but the key difference between the FD30 and FD41 is dimensions. The FD30 (above) is the smaller light, with a 5.5-inch long by 0.9-inch diameter body, and a 1-inch diameter head. The FD30 flood light reaches 67 meters, while the focused spotlight reaches 200 meters. MSRP is $75.
The FD41 is slightly larger, with a 5.7-inch by 1-inch body, and a flared 1.6-inch diameter head. The FD41 also offers a crenelated bezel, for use as an impact weapon in self-defense scenarios. The FD41's larger head diameter provides more adjustability and range — its flood light has a 47-meter range, while the fully-focused spotlight reaches 340 meters. MSRP is $85.
For more information on the new Fenix FD series flashlights, visit FenixLight.com.
Most of us have heard of flash floods on the news, in books, or on the internet. However, few have experienced this force of nature up close, so it's easy to underestimate its sheer speed. During a flash flood, a wall of fast-moving water can sweep through a low-lying canyon or riverbed, washing away trees, boulders, and anything else in its path.
Flash floods can also strike areas where the weather is clear and dry, due to heavy rainfall miles upstream. By the time you hear or see it coming, you may have only seconds to get out of its way and escape to higher ground. If a flash flood strikes your campsite in the middle of the night, you'll have even less time to react. According to the National Weather Service (NWS), a 6-inch-deep creek can swell into 10-foot raging rapids in less than one hour.
The power of flash floods is also easy to underestimate. Only 6 inches of fast-flowing water can knock a strong adult off his or her feet, and 2 feet can carry away a large truck or SUV. Water may not even reach the top of your car's tire, but it can still push it off the road. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention report that over half of all flood-related drownings occur when a vehicle is driven into hazardous flood water. This is why the NWS slogan “turn around, don't drown” was developed.
In order to document the speed and power of flash floods, one videographer has become a flood-chaser of sorts. His name is David Rankin, and he has a YouTube channel dedicated to films of flash floods. The video below has received nearly 3 million views, and shows an up-close look at the debris-laden floodwater front. Warning: Some of the actions seen in this video are extremely dangerous. Do not attempt to get this close to a flash flood.
In a more recent video from August 2016, Rankin shows the terrifying progression of floodwater through narrow canyons and riverbeds in Utah. He states that these floods occurred over 6 hours after the storm had passed through the region. Again, even if the skies are clear, it's important to be extremely cautious when traversing low-lying areas. Rankin's recommendation is sound: check weather forecasts thoroughly before visiting flood-prone canyons.
Finally, we'll leave you with a legitimately scary cell phone video taken of a flash flood. This group of hikers, including several children, entered one of Utah's most famous slot canyons on a clear day. The video description states, “We checked the weather the day prior and there was no chance of rain. We were out of cell phone/internet coverage. This is proof of how fast things can get ugly!”
The takeaway from these videos should be obvious: be extremely careful around low canyons, riverbeds, and dry lakebeds. A flash flood can sweep through in minutes, and push you downstream with immense force. Check the forecast, be aware of your surroundings, and watch for signs of rainfall in the distance.
A shotgun can be a real asset when it comes to both home defense and putting food on the table. However, not all shotguns are created equal for these two purposes. A compact tactical shotgun may be excellent in a home-defense scenario, but it's far from ideal for hunting ducks, turkey, or even deer. A dedicated hunting shotgun will be better-suited for taking home waterfowl and game.
There's another key distinction between tactical shotguns and hunting shotguns. Tactical shotguns often include a Weaver or Picatinny rail for mounting a red dot optic, which can improve your ability to quickly acquire and track targets. Hunting shotguns typically lack this feature, but many do have a ventilated rib along the top of the barrel.
Aimpoint has announced a new red dot sight that mounts directly to the ventilated rib on most popular hunting shotguns. It's called the Aimpoint Micro S-1, and the company says it has the potential to greatly enhance hit percentage for waterfowl, upland birds, turkey, and deer. This sight was unveiled at the 2017 SHOT Show earlier this month.
The Aimpoint Micro S-1 uses a carbon-fiber-reinforced mounting system to attach to any point on the ventilated barrel rib. This eliminates the added weight of a traditional Weaver/Picatinny rail, and keeps the sight close to the bore axis. Interchangeable adapter plates are included, allowing the the S-1 to fit most Browning, Beretta, and Benelli shotguns.
The Micro S-1 uses an 18mm aperture and large 6 MOA red dot, with 12-position intensity dial. The anodized aluminum body contains a single CR2032 lithium battery, weighs a total of 3.53 ounces, and is fully waterproof to 15 feet.
An official MSRP has not yet been set for this optic, but company representatives say it should be available soon in the “low-to-mid $700” range. That may sound like a lot to the more budget-conscious among us, but if it means the difference between putting food on the table and missing a crucial shot in an emergency, it's a valuable asset. For more info on the Aimpoint Micro S-1, visit Aimpoint.com.
If you're a kid on a hot day in the middle of summer, a backyard slip-and-slide is a recipe for fun. When you're an adult on a frigid day in the middle of winter, that slip-and-slide experience is anything but fun. Walking on ice in slick rubber boots often leads to a string of expletives and a bruised rear end — that is, if you don't fall flat on your face.
Crampons are great if you're a hardcore ice-climber, but they're overkill for walking or hiking. Photo:...
There are a few potential solutions to avert this impromptu winter slip-and-slide. Experienced ice climbers use devices called crampons, with long steel spikes that dig into the ice. Unfortunately, crampons are bulky and restrict arch movement, making walking smoothly a difficult task. On the less-extreme side, Yaktrax has offered a variety of traction devices for walking, running, and hiking in winter. But, these devices may not provide adequate traction for very slippery surfaces like hard-packed snow or glacial ice.
The Yaktrax Summit bridges the gap between ice-climbing crampons and spikeless traction devices.
Recognizing the gap between its existing line of consumer-grade traction devices and pro-grade crampons, Yaktrax has launched a new heavy duty traction device called the Yaktrax Summit. This system uses 3/8-inch triangular carbon steel spikes to bite into ice, yet also retains comfort and natural foot flexibility.
The Yaktrax Summit system fits over most types of footwear, and uses a Boa closure system to ratchet down tightly around your boot. Molded rubber bands fit the toe, heel, and each side of the arch, and attach to the sole plates via welded stainless steel chain links.
The sole plates are made from flexible rubber, and are molded around twelve 3/8 inch abrasion-resistant carbon steel spikes per shoe. This design maximizes grip while retaining flexibility and preventing snow buildup between the spikes.
The Yaktrax Summit traction device is available now in sizes from small to extra-large, fitting a range of U.S. men's shoe sizes from 5 to 14+, or U.S. women's 6.5 to 15.5+. MSRP for this system is $90. For more information, go to Yaktrax.com.
