Studying history can teach us a lot about survival. Centuries ago, tough outdoorsmen had to face harsh, desolate, and unexplored environments with limited resources — they had no Gore-Tex jackets, ultralight backpacking tents, or GPS navigation systems. They made do with what they had, and often managed to find ingenious ways to stay alive.
Alexander Selkirk is one historical example of survival, living as a castaway for four years on a deserted island.
If you look back thousands of years instead of hundreds, you’ll see more of the same. Hunters and so-called primitive cultures developed some surprisingly effective ways to collect food, make tools, and construct shelters. Often, the only resources they had were raw materials such as sticks, rocks, clay, plant fibers, bone, animal skins and sinew.
A diagram of a primitive Egyptian clap bow. Illustration: Schäfer, 1919
One particularly clever ancient device is said to have been developed 8,000 years ago in Egypt. It’s often referred to as a clap bow, due to its crossbow-like shape and “clap” action similar to the jaws of a bear trap. It can be used on many varieties of small game, from birds to mice.
In his video, Shawn shows the extremely basic materials necessary for this trap.
Looking at diagrams is all well and good, but does this primitive trap actually work in the real world? Historic hunter and YouTube video creator Shawn Woods decided to reproduce the clap bow design to find out.
The clap bow mousetrap operates based on energy stored in a tightly-twisted cord, which applies tension to one of two wood jaws. The other jaw remains stationary. When the trap’s trigger is dislodged, the moving jaw slams shut, breaking the neck of any small rodent or bird in its path. Check out Shawn’s video demonstration below — it even includes some very cool night-vision footage of the trap catching a mouse.
Shawn already has an incredible 90-video playlist of mousetrap methods, and plans to continue producing new videos each Monday. So, if you’re looking for creative ways to take out some rodent pests (and catch some meat for survival scenarios), follow him on YouTube or his web site: HistoricHunter.com.
As a child, few things brought more pleasure than a new toy with which to wreak havoc. But as an adult, we never really get the opportunity to let loose in the same way. Enter, the Tactical Slingshot. Now we can reclaim some of our youthful vigor while shooting cans, targets, trees, and much more. Here are a few options for a reliable slingshot.
Whether in the backyard or out in the wilderness, be sure to keep the Tactical Slingshot T18 in reach. This metal slingshot with attached support frame is an update to your childhood favorite. You’ll be sure to inflict maximum force thanks in part to its high-tension triple rubber bands. And with an ergonomic handle that supports comfortable grip for both right- and left-handed shooters, this slingshot will hit its mark every time. As a grown up, you deserve a slingshot to match your toughness and grit, and this is it.
There’s a slingshot, and then there’s the Tactical Slingshot W71. In addition to its elastic silicone rubber bands, this thing comes with an infrared sight and a laser flashlight. No more packing things up at dusk, now you can continue the thrill into the night. Plus, having a sight means greater accuracy. If you’re going to buy a slingshot, you might as well go for all the bells and whistles.
Going on a camping trip and looking to save space? Then the Tactical Slingshot L19 is your best bet, measuring at just over 5 inches tall. That being said, this little guy will still provide you plenty of power and accuracy. Featuring an ergonomically designed grip to maximize control, this easy to carry slingshot also incorporates a high-tension bands to increase velocity and striking force. It’s perfect for the gunslinger on the go.
The Tactical Slingshot X22 was built not just for hitting a target, but destroying it. An upgrade from the traditional models, this slingshot combines high elastic silicone rubber bands with a spring-loaded body to increase your firepower to new levels. The high-tech design also features and adjustable handle for both left- and right-handed users. If you want a powerful slingshot, this is the model for you.
Back in March, we published a detailed review of the 5.11 Tactical Defender Flex jeans and pants — if you haven’t read it yet, check it out here. Here’s a quick recap of our conclusions after initial wear testing:
The 5.11 Defender Flex jeans won our Best Pants of SHOT Show 2017 award.
The Defender-Flex line bridges the gap between consumer-grade clothing and tactical apparel. Some may look at these as just pants with some extra pockets and stretch fabric, and think what’s the big deal?, but to us these are legitimately a big deal. They’re not just jeans, they’re jeans that could potentially make the other pairs you own obsolete.
These aren’t relegated to tactical training, range days, or outdoor excursions. You could wear them to the office or the mall, and nobody would bat an eye. Meanwhile, you’d be able to organize your EDC gear better, carry more in your pockets, and move with greater flexibility. Best of all, they only cost about $20 more than an ordinary pair of cotton jeans.
Now that we’ve had more than six months to wear the Defender Flex jeans — and yes, we have worn them most days since then — we figured it might be helpful to give an update to our initial review. After all, some apparel feels great at first, but starts to show wear and tear quickly. Fortunately, this hasn’t been the case with our 5.11 jeans or pants. They’ve held up nicely without any fraying, loose stitches, or discoloration.
To address some of our critiques of the Defender Flex series, the thick pocket seams have softened a little as the fabric wore in, but they’re still fairly tough to use with the stiffer pocket clips on some of our EDC gear. As for the belt loops and zipper, they’ve remained durable despite our initial concerns over their size/thickness.
Left: straight-fit jeans in Dark Wash Indigo. Right: the same jeans in slim cut.
Since our review, 5.11 Tactical has expanded the Defender Flex line to include more colors and two cuts: straight and slim. We had the opportunity to try the new slim-fit jeans and pants, each in a new color. Our older pair of jeans was Dark Wash Indigo, with noticeable faded creases across the front. Our new slim jeans are in the regular Indigo color (pictured below), and present a cleaner uniform dark blue appearance that we prefer.
We like the new Indigo color better than the lighter blue Dark Wash color we originally reviewed.
In addition, we picked up a pair of the slim pants in Volcanic color, pictured in the three photos below. It’s a dark charcoal shade that’s subtle enough for any urban gray man.
As for the fit of the new slim Defender Flex jeans and pants, it’s almost indistinguishable from the straight-cut pairs. These are NOT hipster skinny jeans, so don’t be confused by the slim nomenclature.
The legs feel ever so slightly slimmer than those on the straight cut — there’s such a small difference in this area we could hardly notice it. The biggest difference lies in the upper thigh and groin area. There’s less bagginess here, but again, it’s certainly not what we’d consider tight.
After wearing both slim and straight Defender Flex jeans back-to-back, we’d say there’s about a 10% difference in fit between the two, if that. Despite some initial trepidation about these pants being too skinny, this moderately slender 6’5″-215lb author found them to fit better than the straight pairs.
Like most 5.11 Tactical apparel, the Defender Flex series seems to run large in the waist, so you may need to expect a slightly looser fit at your normal jeans’ waist size. However, this slight roominess is a plus for those of us who carry concealed handguns inside the waistband.
We’re still pleased with the Defender Flex, and intend to keep wearing them on a regular basis. They’re solid pants with good flexibility, plenty of low-profile pockets, and a reasonable price. For more info on the 5.11 Defender Flex jeans and pants, go to 511Tactical.com.
Whether you’re running errands around town, enjoying a little winter fly fishing at your favorite spot, or digging a neighbor’s car out of a snowbank, there’s no substitute for a warm body. It doesn’t matter if you’re walking out the door for 20 minutes or an all-day adventure, the right puffy jacket won’t just make you warm — it’ll keep you alive.
Fit, Fit, Fit
Of chief concern when picking mid-layers and outerwear is the fit of the apparel. If your fancy DWR-coated fabric is stretched in the wrong places, a little rain or snow will result in dampness and misery as long as you’re out in the elements. Make sure your jacket fits well in the shoulders, chest, and arms. At a minimum, try it on at the store and walk around, moving your arms over your head and flapping back and forth. Pay attention to any awkward stretching that could signal you’ll wear a thin spot in the insulation. The waist is important, but it’s more of a comfort characteristic. You don’t want it to bind or be constrictive, but beyond that, it’s personal preference.
Down Versus Synthetic
For the longest time, goose down was the absolute standard for cold-weather gear. It lofts well and has an incredible warmth-to-weight ratio. If you’re shopping for down, be aware of the fill rating. This arbitrary number is essentially a measure of how much each individual feather lofts and traps heat. The higher the number — 600- versus 800-fill — the less amount of down it takes for equal warmth.
In recent years, synthetic insulations such as PrimaLoft and Polartec, as well a bevy of brand-proprietary solutions, have become real challengers to down. Your usage dictates what you should look for. Synthetics tend to breathe better than down, but they give up points for bulk and packability in return. A major differentiator for years has been the fact that synthetic insulation retains warmth when wet, while down doesn’t insulate at all when saturated. But new hydrophobic treatments like those found in Mountain Hardwear’s Q.Shield and Allied Feather and Down’s HyperDry are fast becoming usable options for wet weather.
A side note here is the newcomer to the competition, wool loft. Rather than knitting or weaving a fleece-like material like your favorite merino base layer, some brands comb and loft wool to serve as internal insulation, much like synthetic fibers. Both merino and llama wool are good options, a nice middle ground in terms of weight versus warmth.
Breathability
It used to be that when you got bundled up, you had to be very cognizant of overheating, because even a little sweat spelled doom when you were at out in the cold for long periods. That isn’t the case with new technologies such as Polartec’s Alpha and PrimaLoft’s Silver Active. With these open-fiber materials, your puffy can push moisture out as well (and most often better) than your hardshell. The limiting factor is the face fabric and how air permeable it is.
The right combination of insulation, liner, and face can suck moisture away from you. Finding the right balance for breathability and windproofness can be somewhat tricky though. As with everything else, listen to your body. If you tend to run hot or sweat a lot, investing in some of these new fabrics will be your best option.
Value
This one is hard to quantify. Is that 850-fill down jacket really worth it? If you’re a weight-saving backcountry athlete, the answer is likely yes. Are you more of a casual adventurer and using your puffy more for urban use? That extra few ounces saved, and the latest high-tech face fabric, probably won’t make a big difference for your typical daily use. In the end, value added really depends on how you’ll use your jacket. If it’s really important to have an insulating layer that wicks moisture, works as a layering piece, and can stand alone for casual use, that extra $100 will be well spent.
Selection Criteria
We scoured the market for the best options for every type of insulation — down, wool, and the major synthetic players. After testing out our options on some long winter hikes, backcountry ski tours, cold-weather farm work, and a whole lot of winter tailgating, we picked our favorites based on performance, fit, insulation, and breathability.
Unless you’re a diehard car enthusiast, you probably haven’t heard of Rezvani Motors. Until recently, this small automotive company has only produced one model: a hand-built American supercar called the Rezvani Beast. This low-slung vehicle looks like something out of a futuristic sci-fi movie, and its latest version (the Beast Alpha, seen below) has a starting price of $139,000.
The SideWinder doors on the Beast Alpha are certainly eye-catching and unique.
However, Rezvani has branched out with the release of a brand-new model for 2018. It’s known as the Rezvani Tank, and it’s an immense “extreme utility vehicle” that appears to be deserving of its imposing name. The new Tank comes standard with a 500-horsepower 6.4L V8 — a variant of the same powerful 392 Hemi motor found in the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT.
Of course, the Rezvani Tank offers four-wheel drive via an on-demand system, as well as Off Road or Extreme Off Road suspension packages. The Off Road package gives you the following upgrades:
6-inch lift kit with FOX 2.5-inch remote reservoir shocks
37×12.50-inch tires
Dynatrac ProRock 44/60 axles with E-Lockers
Heavy-duty 1350 front and rear driveshafts
The Extreme Off Road package ups the ante even further with:
6-inch lift kit with FOX 2.5-inch internal bypass shocks with DSC
37×13.50-inch tires
Dynatrac ProRock XD60/80 axles with air lockers and onboard air compressor
Dynatrac ProGrip front and rear brakes
Heavy-duty 1350 front and rear driveshafts
Prospective buyers can also choose from one of three levels of Kevlar body armor, which also include bulletproof glass, run-flat tires, and added Kevlar protection around the fuel tank, floor pan, and radiator. The B4 level is rated for handgun rounds up to .44 Magnum; B6 is rated for high-power rifle rounds up to .30-06; B7 is rated for multiple hits from armor-piercing .308 rifle rounds.
There’s even an available FLIR thermal night vision system so you can bug out stealthily without needing to turn on the lights. The tow package equips the Rezvani Tank with a tow hitch and front winch.
This isn’t just an ordinary armored vehicle, it’s also designed to function as a luxury SUV. The suicide doors open to reveal leather seats with customizable contrast stitching, a suede headliner, hand-stitched leather floor mats, and automatic-opening and -closing side steps. The Tank’s exterior is offered in nine standard colors, but if you want yours in FDE or lime green to match your Lambo, that’s no problem — custom colors are available at no extra charge.
A heads-up display projects vehicle information onto the windshield as you drive, and an Alpine touchscreen stereo head unit with Apple CarPlay lets you listen to your favorite tunes. A trickle charger and weather-proof car cover are available as accessories, in case you plan to keep your Rezvani Tank in storage until SHTF.
Now, as you may imagine, this is not a cheap vehicle. The base price before options is $178,000. After fully maxing-out the options list in Rezvani’s interactive build configurator, and including all the optional equipment we mentioned above, we got the price to a whopping $305,075. That’s certainly not the most expensive bug-out truck we’ve written about, but it’s sure up there.
The internet is a powerful tool for sharing knowledge and connecting with distant friends. However, it’s also a double-edged sword — the knowledge that’s shared with the world might be your sensitive personal information, and those distant “friends” may be looking to track you down for malicious purposes. This may sound unlikely, but crimes related to social media are on the rise.
Therefore, it’s always wise to be cautious about the information you disclose on the net. If you’re not, one moment of carelessness may come back to bite you years later. An innocent photo on your Facebook page may reveal your street address or the contents of your home, leading burglars to your doorstep. Or a family member might tag you in a post at Disneyland, letting everyone on your friends list know you’ll be out of town for a few days.
You might think, I’m not careless! All my information is restricted to friends only, and I trust everyone on my friends list. Ask yourself: What if one of your friends stays logged into Facebook on his home or work computer? Suddenly everyone in the house (or office) can view your location and private photos through his account.
What if his password is weaker than yours, and his account gets hacked? Any information on your profile could be accessed by criminals halfway across the world, and used to target you for a phishing attack or other forms of social engineering.
Rather than remaining blissfully ignorant of the security risks of social media, we should carefully consider them and use them as motivation to remain cautious online. The following infographic from CreditSesame shows the potential for social media to compromise your physical security. Click here to download a full-size version of this graphic.
Now, we’re not encouraging you to go full Ted Kaczynski, living in a shed in the woods while shunning all forms of digital communication. Social media can be a nice way to stay in touch with friends and family, grow your business, or even monitor the status of an unfolding disaster. Just keep in mind that any information you put online stays online — be careful what you post and share.
Despite the common sentiment that electronics will become useless overnight when SHTF, we’ve often extolled the benefits of these devices survival situations. Electronic devices allow you to wirelessly communicate, navigate via interactive maps, and light your campsite all night long — these are huge advantages, and you need every advantage you can get when you’re trying to survive.
However, electronics are only useful if they’re charged. Once you’re out of juice and spare batteries, those devices will be essentially worthless unless you’ve prepared a long-term solution.
Benefits & Drawbacks of Off-Grid Power Packs
Small devices can be charged by USB power banks, but a larger unit is necessary for 12V electronics.
Small USB power banks are helpful for smartphones and tablets, but a larger portable power pack with inverter capabilities can provide the wattage necessary to run both small and large electronics. With built-in 12V AC wall outlets, you can simply plug in a high-output work light, GPS unit, laptop, or even a small refrigerator.
These power packs can run for days on battery power alone, providing standalone capabilities for short off-grid adventures. When the battery is depleted, they can be recharged by solar panels or hooked up to a vehicle alternator to restore the charge.
Goal Zero offers purpose-built solar generators for plug-and-play charging of electronics.
While you can easily buy portable power packs (sometimes also called solar generators) from companies such as Goal Zero and Renogy, there’s a drawback to these off-the-shelf options: cost. Don’t get us wrong — we’ve had great experiences with the Goal Zero Yeti series in the past. However, the large-capacity versions range in price from $500 to nearly $3000. That may be a cost-prohibitive expense for budget-oriented preppers.
The compact Goal Zero Sherpa 100 solar kit with inverter costs $550, and provides 98 Watt-hours (Wh) of power.
Fortunately, if you’re willing to delve into the world of do-it-yourself projects, you can make your own portable power pack on a much tighter budget. Brandon Barton of Last Man Projects recently wrote the following DIY guide for a marine-battery-based power pack, and gave us permission to share it here on OFFGRIDweb. He built the unit for his bug-out truck, a 1978 Ford Bronco named Lucille.
This DIY power pack was built as part of Brandon’s ’78 Bronco project.
I just finished up my bug-out vehicle (BOV) emergency power box. I wanted a large rechargeable power pack, but at $1500, I can’t afford something like the Goal Zero Yeti 1250. Having something like this is nice for camping, your bug-out truck, or running electronics during sudden power outages that aren’t expected to be long enough to fire up the gas generator.
The Goal Zero Yeti 1250 served as a benchmark for Brandon’s power pack build.
I did a little research and made this power pack for around $210. I’ve got a 100-Watt solar panel and charge controller on the way to complete the setup, but they haven’t come in yet. These items will add another $130 to the total cost. The Goal Zero’s price of $1500 doesn’t include solar panels.
To compare the two, my box is good for approximately 1,212 Watt-hours (Wh) compared to the Yeti 1250’s 1200Wh; in this regard they’re virtually the same. Both appear to have basically the same reserve capacity rating as well.
Photo courtesy of Brandon Barton / Last Man Projects
Mine has two 12V plugs, two AC plugs, and one 2.1A USB plug, compared with the Yeti’s one 12V plug, three AC plugs, and three USBs. While the Yeti 1250 has a few more output choices, I can overcome that with USB or AC splitters if needed (I doubt it’ll be necessary). My DIY pack has been modified with external battery post terminals, which the Yeti lacks. I like this because it adds a significant adaptability to the homemade power source.
Speaking of the ability to adapt, both have the ability to charge from solar, wall, or car. However my power pack can change batteries and run using a 12V battery scavenged from a car, ATV, or lawnmower. Capacity results will vary, but the Yeti can’t do that.
Photo courtesy of Brandon Barton / Last Man Projects
My box weighs in at an awkward 70 pounds. The Goal Zero weighs 103 pounds, but has wheels, giving it a slight edge in mobility.
Power Pack Component List
MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center – There are other options out there, but this one had more of the features I was looking for. It comes from the manufacturer with two 12V plugs, a battery meter, and fuses already built into the lid. – approximately $70.00 with tax and shipping.
Peak PKC0M08 Black 800W Mobile Power Outlet with 2.1 USB – $40.00
Top post battery terminals with wing nuts – approx. $7.00
Copper lugs x2 – approx. $3.00 each
Photo courtesy of Brandon Barton / Last Man Projects
Assembly & Modifications
It’s not at all hard to assemble once you buy the base components. I know there are people with electrical experience exponentially greater than mine, I’m sure they could make something way better than this from scratch. I’m good for most home electrical “honey-dos” and have a fairly good mechanical grasp, common sense, and that’s about it.
Photo courtesy of Brandon Barton / Last Man Projects
I wanted to put something together that most anyone could do at home with very little technical knowledge. This is basically all “plug and play”. The only thing that involved customization was cutting off the clamps on the inverter and crimping on copper lugs to attach to the wing nut terminals on the lid. That’s it.
Photo courtesy of Brandon Barton / Last Man Projects
The only other tip to remember when building this is to put something in the box as a spacer to keep the battery from moving around. I used some extra rubber floor mat material I had from my faraday box build. Lastly, you’ll notice I mounted the inverter to a wooden block inside the box. This is necessary as the thin plastic wall of the box isn’t strong enough to stand up to any real use.
That’s about it. Simple, cheap, adaptable, and effective. Have fun.
Brandon’s Bronco, Lucille, will soon be fitted with a solar panel to passively charge the power pack.
Whether it’s an extension cord in the garage, a charging cable for your phone, or a fishing line in your tackle box, few things are more frustrating than pulling on a loose end only to watch the remainder tighten into a jumbled rat’s nest. Sometimes, it seems like tangles are all but inevitable, but if you’re diligent about storing your cords in an organized fashion, you won’t need to waste time unraveling a labyrinth of knots.
Paracord that’s stored loose like this won’t stay neat for long.
Paracord is an important resource for any survival kit, since mil-spec varieties contain many useful inner strands and are capable of holding 550lbs of weight (or more). However, you’ll need to establish a carry system that will avoid tangles and provide quick access to as much cord as you need. We’ve previously discussed the basic cord bundle method, but we recently came across another convenient type of paracord storage: the paracord donut.
The paracord donut looks like it might be complicated to make, but it’s surprisingly simple. Just wrap the end of a strand of paracord around your hand a few times, and begin pulling the long end through loops in an up-down-up-down pattern. The video below from Paracord Guild shows how it’s done:
This process can be continued indefinitely, with each pass around the circumference making the donut thicker. This shape can easily be retained on your existing gear by running a strap, carabiner, or post through the donut hole. Then, when you need some cordage, just pull on the loose end until the amount you need has unraveled. No more tangles, and no more digging in your pack for a long, thin bundle of paracord.
Security is an important element of any emergency preparedness plan. You might have enough guns, ammo, water, MREs, medicine, and other gear to supply an army, but if these items are stored out in the open, someone will eventually take them from you. It’s common sense to lock up your resources to deter anyone who might have sticky fingers.
However, as we’ve said in the past, not all locks are created equal. You need to carefully consider the locks you use, because certain locks (especially cheaper varieties found at big box retail stores) can be cracked easily. Some locks can even be popped open by simply tapping the exterior with a mallet.
Lock shims are simple pieces of sheet metal bent into varying radii.
Another way locks can be defeated is through the use of shims. Shimming a padlock involves inserting a thin piece of metal (or two) around the lock shackle, thereby pushing away the latch(es) and opening the lock. Some locks can even be shimmed using pieces of aluminum cut out of a soda can. Here’s a demonstration:
For the record, please don’t use this information for illegal purposes — we’re not responsible if you do. If you’re interested in learning how to use lock shims for scavenging during a true SHTF end-of-the-world scenario, only practice at home on locks you bought for that purpose.
If you’re securing your resources, consider the risk of shimming, lockpicking, and other security workarounds. Cheap locks may be a deterrent, but they won’t stop these attacks. If you’re truly concerned about securing your gear, look into high-security locks — and no, despite the marketing, the new MasterLock anti-shim locks are not truly shim-proof.
Spend five minutes watching a highly-trained sushi chef or experienced woodworker, and you’ll soon realize that technique is critical when using a blade. The level of precision demonstrated by these skilled individuals takes decades of practice to achieve — in many cases, they’ll make cuts look easy until you attempt to imitate them. These pros also usually have a good grasp on safety, and know how to avoid catastrophic injuries while using their tools.
So, even if you own a high-quality knife made from top-shelf steel, it’s essential to constantly be improving your cutting technique. Adjusting your grip depending on the circumstances is one way to improve performance. The firm grip you’d use to hack through brush is not the same one you’d need for delicate skinning or shaving feather sticks.
The improvised wood planer method pulls wood along a stationary blade hammered into a stump.
In the video below, Schrade Knives demonstrates a few of the basic backwoods grip styles and cutting skills, including a few you may not know about. While may seem a little heavy-handed with its product placement and slick infomercial-style voice-over, there’s good information to be had here. The chest lever and wood planer methods are especially interesting.
