Page 111 – RECOIL OFFGRID

Biodiesel: Free Yourself From the Fuel Supply Chain

Posted on January 22, 2019 at 6:00 am.

In This Article

What Is Biodiesel?
Why Biodiesel?
Do It Yourself
Emergency Sources
Biodiesel Engine Prep
Living With Biodiesel

Photography by Trevor Reed, and courtesy of AMC, The Department of Energy, Diesel Power Magazine, and the manufacturers.

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

Unfortunately, it’s not very hard to imagine a scenario where the fuel supply system breaks down. In 2012, the closure of just two refineries in California caused fuel prices to skyrocket and some stations to close in a state with more than 38-million people. Now, picture every refinery in the entire country, or even the whole world, shutting down, and record-high prices will seem like a minor inconvenience as supplies of ready-to-use fuel disappear. One way to insulate yourself from this kind of disaster is to learn how to find and make your own fuel before it happens, and biodiesel is your best bet for self-sufficiency.

Photo Credit: Ben Leuner/AMC

Above: You don’t need to be an expert chemist or wear a hazard suit and mask to make your own biodiesel at home. Friends may be tempted to call you Mr. White when you start creating batches of crystal-clear biodiesel, but you’ll be laughing all the way to the bank, when your fuel costs drop below $1 per gallon.

What Is Biodiesel?

The “bio” in biodiesel is there because the fuel comes from biological resources, instead of petroleum. Biodiesel can be made from a number of sources, including vegetable oils, animal fat, used deep-fryer grease, or even butter. It’s made by brewing these substances and then adding chemicals and water to maximize consistency and strip away impurities. The byproduct of this chemical reaction is glycerin, which can be used to make soap, lotion, and other products, or sold to recoup your production costs.

Why Biodiesel?

Availability when petroleum supplies are scarce is not the only reason to choose biodiesel as your fuel of choice. Imagine a substance that doesn’t need to be made at a refinery, that’s more powerful than gasoline, gets more miles per gallon than gas, while costing and polluting less than diesel, and you have biodiesel. In addition to powering a vehicle’s engine, biodiesel can also run a diesel generator, or be used as heating oil. Diesel engines are known for being powerful, efficient, and durable, which makes them ideal for an emergency situation. That’s the reason tractors, heavy equipment, and semi-trucks run on diesel.

Petroleum-based diesel fuel contains more power per gallon than gasoline, and biodiesel is just as potent, but you can make it at home. Plus, engines that run on diesel aren’t nearly as picky as gasoline engines when it comes to the fuel you can use, which means they can be a lot more flexible, and useful, during an urban emergency. A diesel engine that’s been prepared to use biodiesel can also run on numerous petroleum-based oils you may acquire during an emergency.

Do It Yourself

In addition to costing significantly less per gallon than petroleum diesel, you don’t need a Ph.D. in chemistry to make your own biodiesel. The government may even subsidize some of your equipment costs with alternative-fuel tax breaks. All you need is a processor kit, which you can buy ready to use, or make for yourself, and some methanol and lye to mix with your source material. The size of your operation can range from about 40 gallons per batch to more than 400 gallons, depending on how much space you have available and how mobile your setup needs to be. Other than methanol and lye needed for processing, the only limitation to your biodiesel production will be how much organic material you can cultivate or obtain.

Above Left: This processor by Biodiesel-Kits-Online is made in the USA and can produce as much as 135 gallons per day. It has everything needed to convert biodiesel at home from start to finish. The company also makes a larger three-tank unit that can make as much as 270 gallons per day.

Above Right: The BioPro line of products by Springboard Biodiesel automates the production process to the point where the user only has to interact with the machine one time after it’s started. The BioPro 190 seen here can make 50 gallons per batch, and there is a larger model that can make 100 gallons per cycle.

Above: Graydon Blair of Utah Biodiesel Supply designed this system for a customer, using parts that can easily be repaired or replaced. The 80-gallon processor is made from an electric water heater, and the wash tanks are made from poly barrels. Quick connects are used to make operation a breeze and the wash tanks are mounted on a cart with wheels, so it can be easily moved to where the fuel is needed.

Emergency Sources

Under normal circumstances, there are quite a few legitimate sources for the ingredients to make biodiesel. Many businesses such as restaurants, buildings with cafeterias, and food-processing plants pay to have waste oil removed and will allow you to take it for making biodiesel. You can also grow your own sources, including seeds or vegetables that produce high levels of oil you can convert. These include, but are definitely not limited to, peanuts, sunflower seeds, olives, canola, and soybeans.

During an emergency, fuels that can be used in a diesel engine can be found in numerous places, including unused vehicles and equipment, and diesel generators from abandoned buildings; there’s even mineral oil in high-voltage power line transformers that are no longer in use. Like biodiesel, oils can be combined with petroleum diesel to extend the range of a fuel tank. With the right preparations, there’s hope you won’t have to resort to scavenging for fuel sources and can rely on your own stockpiles and even grow your own fuel supplies.

Above: Heads up! During an emergency, fuel sources for diesel engines can be found in lots of unexpected places. Power line transformers are full of mineral oil that can be used as diesel fuel if times become desperate. Of course, obtaining this type of fuel is illegal, and much more dangerous than making biodiesel, which is fairly safe. But in a long-term grid-down scenario it may be an option.

Cooking oil often has just one ingredient: soybean oil. This makes it an ideal candidate for making biodiesel, because it’s simple and clean, compared to used oils. Unlike used oil, cooking oil is not free for the taking, but it can be bought in bulk, and during an emergency, abandoned businesses may have lots of it on hand.

Sometimes biodiesel vehicles are called “grease cars,” because used cooking oil and grease can be converted into biodiesel. When used cooking materials are collected, they are first run through a screen to remove debris, and any particles that are not removed during the biodiesel conversion are caught by a filter when the fuel is transferred to a storage tank.

Biodiesel Engine Prep

Most modern diesel engines come from the factory ready to accept either 5 or 20 percent biodiesel, known as B5 or B20, mixed in with petroleum diesel. That means even some of the most advanced diesel engines will require no modifications to run diesel, which has been combined with biodiesel, and can extend your funds and your supplies. When it comes to using pure biodiesel, called B100, it’s best to make some modifications to your fuel system to ensure reliability.

Above: The famed Cummins B-series engine has just six cylinders, but it is world famous for its strength and durability. It’s not uncommon to hear about these engines lasting for 200,000, 300,000 or even more miles. These “bullet-proof” engines can be found in vehicles ranging from pickups, to motor homes, and heavy-duty trucks. With more than 2 million of these engines built for Dodge Ram pickups alone, there should be plenty of spare parts available during an emergency.

Low temperatures cause the most problems for vehicles running B100 because it can turn into a gel and clog fuel lines, injectors, and filters. These problems can be avoided with the help of products such as an electric heater in the fuel tank, insulation, and an inline heater in the fuel line. People who run straight vegetable oil (SVO), which is oil that has not been converted to biodiesel, will sometimes employ a two-tank system that allows them to flush regular diesel into the engine at start-up and before the engine is stopped to prevent gel from forming in the fuel system while parked.

Another concern about using biodiesel is the potential for water or debris to be in the fuel. While correctly processing your own fuel can minimize the chances of these substances making it into your engine, it’s better to be safe than sorry. This can be prevented with the use of a fuel/water separator, along with a fuel filter designed to screen out the smallest of particles that may be found in biodiesel.

Above: Diesel Power magazine’s project “Doomsday Diesel” is a study in how to build a vehicle that can reliably transport six people at least 1,000 miles during an emergency. In addition to lots of zombie-proof parts, it’s been equipped with a 12-valve Cummins, which is a mechanical engine that doesn’t rely on electronics to operate. To make sure Cummins can run on multiple source materials, the fuel is routed through a heavy-duty Nicktane water separator before travelling through a 2-micron Caterpillar fuel filter on its way to the engine.

Living With Biodiesel

Many people believe biodiesel works better with older diesel engine designs, but with the right preparations, even modern diesel engines can work reliably with biodiesel. The attraction of older designs is they require fewer, or even no electronic parts, and they only need to put biodiesel under a fraction of the 30,000 psi of pressure used in current diesels. The tradeoff is that newer diesels are much more powerful, run cleaner, and are more fuel efficient than ever before.

: Cleaning out your vehicle periodically is another way to reduce the risk of spreading germs.

Above: Whether you need a sedan that’s rated to get 43 miles per gallon, a truck that can pull a house off of its foundation, an SUV for off-road capability, or a van for secure cargo transportation, you can get one with a diesel engine. With diesels available in each vehicle category, you should be able to switch your family fleet over to diesel while meeting their vehicular needs. Plus, it shouldn’t be too hard to convince them to switch once you are making biodiesel that costs less than a dollar per gallon.

Diesel engines are also available in a wide range of vehicles, giving you the options of driving everything from a midsize car that gets more than 40 mpg to an off-road-ready SUV, a motorhome, or a pickup that can tow a gigantic fifth-wheel trailer. Biodiesel can also be used to cleanly power a generator to keep your home powered in an emergency, using the same fuel that runs your vehicles. So, if you decide to prepare with biodiesel, you’ll not only have a renewable fuel source that’s always at your disposal, you’ll also be ready for an emergency.

Above Left: Diesel engines may have a bad reputation for blowing smoke and polluting, but the Department of Energy has found that biodiesel burns much cleaner than petroleum diesel. (Data Source: Chapter 2.6 of the EPA’s Renewable Fuel Standard Program (RFS2) Regulatory Impact Analysis. February 2010. EPA-420-R-10-006.

Above Right: Biodiesel production rises when the economy drops, so making your own fuel can help insulate your family from the volatility of the markets. It can be stockpiled for later use, or sold for goods and services. You might say it’s good as gold, except the value of gold recently dropped, and biodiesel is still gaining popularity. (Data Source: EIA Monthly Energy Review, Table 10.4)

New: Magpul Rigger Framelock Knife

Posted on January 21, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

Magpul has developed a surprisingly wide range of gear, from the ubiquitous PMAGs and MBUS sights to items you may not be familiar with, such as sunglasses, gear pouches, and suppressor covers. Despite all this, the company hadn't ventured into the knife market — until now. Magpul recently announced the launch of a new limited-edition folding knife called the Rigger, which will go on sale starting in mid-2019.

The Magpul Rigger is what knife guys refer to as a mid-tech, meaning it's somewhere between a standard production knife and a hand-made custom. It's designed by the Magpul team, made in the United States, and uses the type of materials you'd expect in a premium folder. Namely, the blade is CPM S35VN, one of our favorite EDC-friendly steels as a result of its excellent toughness and edge retention. The handle and reversible tip-up pocket clip are lightweight 6Al4V titanium. All parts are coated in a stealthy Blackout PVD finish.

The Rigger uses a frame lock with a Secondary Locking Feature (SLF). This lever can be engaged to prevent accidental disengagement of the frame lock during hard use.

Magpul calls the blade a modified Wharncliffe, and it features a near-straight cutting edge and sharp piercing point. A flipper allows for quick opening of the knife and is aided by a ceramic bearing pivot. When the blade is open, the flipper acts as a guard and extension of the forefinger notch, preventing the user's hand from slipping forward. Blade length is 3.4 inches; overall length is 7.59 inches.

Magpul Rigger framelock folding knife edc tool blade flipper S35VN 4

The reversible clip includes an integral lanyard hole.

The Rigger will be available in “a series of short, serialized production runs,” each with some unique variations. Pricing hasn't yet been announced, but the mid-tech designation and limited production suggest it'll be $500 or more. Magpul plans to announce the first of these Rigger production runs in spring 2019.

For more on the Rigger and an interview with several members of the Magpul project team, check out this article on RECOILweb.com. You can also watch a teaser video from Magpul below.

Review: Streamlight ProTac 90 and Siege X USB

Posted on January 19, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In This Article

Streamlight ProTac 90
Streamlight Siege X USB Lantern

Monday is the beginning of SHOT Show 2019, the world's largest shooting, hunting, and outdoor trade show — check OFFGRIDweb.com tomorrow for a live photo gallery of the guns and gear we see at the show. Many of the products that will be unveiled at SHOT are still strictly under wraps, but we got a special opportunity to evaluate some pre-release samples of two new lights from Streamlight.

Although the ProTac 90 and Siege X USB aren't on sale yet, we've already spent a few weeks using them. Read on as we share our impressions of these new lights.

Streamlight ProTac 90

If you're familiar with Streamlight at all, you're bound to know the ProTac series. It's one of the company's most popular lines, making use of sturdy aluminum construction and simple yet versatile controls across a range of EDC-friendly models. Personally, I've been using a ProTac 2L frequently for more than 5 years, and it's still going strong.

The latest addition to the Streamlight ProTac series is the ProTac 90. As anyone who didn't sleep through geometry class can guess, the “90” is an indicator of its 90-degree right-angle head. We've written about angle-head flashlights in the past — while this design still isn't for everyone, it offers a number of considerable advantages.

Like a traditional flashlight, the ProTac 90 can easily be carried in hand. Streamlight designed the ergonomics of the light to fit this use case, placing the raised push-button switch near the head at a 45-degree angle. This permits the user to hold the light in a handlebar-style grip and operate the switch with a thumb. It's also substantially more comfortable than the top-mounted switch on the PolyTac 90 we previously reviewed.

If you've done any low-light shooting drills with a handgun and pocket flashlight, you may be used to aiming your light with one of a few popular grip styles: neck-index (over-the-shoulder), Harries (crossed wrists), or Rogers (between the fingers). The ProTac 90 allows for some interesting alternatives, and we found it felt surprisingly natural when used alongside a weapon. It's especially well-suited to the Harries grip or simply being held close to the body at chest height.

As with other ProTac series lights, the switch can be used in either half-press momentary mode or full-press constant-on mode. It also includes Streamlight's TEN-TAP programming system, so you can select from one of three activation patterns:

High/strobe/low
High only
Low/High

Cycling through these modes requires short half-presses of the switch, then a hold or full-press of the switch once the desired mode is reached.

Like the popular ProTac 1L-1AA, the ProTac 90 is a multi-fuel light. It can use the included CR123A battery or a single AA (either alkaline or lithium). We definitely appreciate this option, since CR123As may not always be available, but you can find AAs in any grocery store, pharmacy, or gas station. The drawback to using a AA is its reduction in output and/or run time. Here are the specs from Streamlight:

Battery Type	Output – High	Output – Low	Runtime – High	Runtime – Low	Runtime – Strobe
CR123A	300 lumens	40 lumens	1.75 hours	14 hours	2.5 hours
AA Lithium	125 lumens	40 lumens	5.5 hours	15 hours	8 hours
AA Alkaline	125 lumens	40 lumens	2.75 hours	8.25 hours	3.5 hours

Given the recent proliferation of 1,000-lumen pocket flashlights, 300 lumens might not sound like a lot. But as is often the case with good-quality flashlights, the optic design makes this output appear brighter and more effective than you'd expect. Streamlight calls it a “blended beam,” meaning that it has a smoother gradation between the central spotlight and outer edge. Compared to my old ProTac 2L, the ProTac 90's spotlight is slightly larger and noticeably softer. The ProTac 90 has a mild yellow-green tint — a warmer shade than the bluish output of my 2L, but less warm than a modern Surefire.

The ProTac 90 is constructed from machined aluminum with an anodized finish and a shatter-resistant borofloat glass lens. It's IPX7 waterproof (1-meter immersion for 30 minutes) and impact-resistant to 2-meter drops. It also features a removable, bi-directional pocket clip. Unlike other Streamlight clips that are held in place by spring tension alone, this clip has a clasp that prevents it from popping off the light. I've noticed that's a common problem with many other Streamlight models, including my ProTac 2L, so I'm glad to see it's not an issue in this case.

The clip allows this light to be attached to a pocket, belt, or even the brim of a hat for hands-free illumination. It also works well on backpacks, harnesses, and other MOLLE-compatible gear.

Overall, the ProTac 90 is a welcome addition to the Streamlight tactical line. It's not a replacement for the traditional ProTac 1L-1AA, but rather a complement to it for those who prefer the right-angle style. It works well in concert with a handgun, as a hands-free utility light, or simply as an everyday flashlight. MSRP is $68, and we expect street prices will be roughly half that as is usually the case with Streamlight products.

Pros:

90-degree layout works great as a hands-free light or weapon light
Switch placement and tactile feel make it easy to use
Optic produces a clear, even beam pattern
Accepts multiple common battery types

Cons:

Use of a AA battery dramatically limits output
90-degree head takes up additional pocket real estate
Not effective as an impact weapon due to its length and layout

Streamlight Siege X USB Lantern

The second new release from Streamlight is a compact yet potent multi-function lantern, the Siege X USB. Since it shares a name with the original Siege and Siege AA, you might think this is a slight revision of these pre-existing camping lanterns. However, it's a substantially different design with a smaller footprint and several new features.

Measuring in at just 2.1 inches in diameter and 4.4 inches in length, the Siege X fits nicely in hand or in a backpack pocket. It's IPX7 waterproof and impact-resistant to 2 meters. Like the original Siege, it uses an array of LEDs inside a polycarbonate diffuser lens to produce a smooth area of illumination. It also features two hangers for suspending the lantern.

First, a folding handle swings up from around the lens. This can be used as a simple carry handle, but there's a notch in the middle that hooks onto ridgelines, railings, door frames, tabletops, or other edges.

Next, there's a spring-loaded D-ring on the opposite end of the lantern. This is ideal for attaching the light to smaller cord loops, such as the loop at the apex of a tent.

Pressing the button on the side of the lantern turns on the light and cycles through output levels; holding this button down switches between three modes: white lantern, red lantern, and flashlight. The flashlight beam is projected from a separate LED inside an optic at the top of the lantern. This beam pattern is actually similar to that of the ProTac 90, albeit slightly more diffuse and pure white in color.

Here's an overview of the output modes and run times:

Light Mode	High	Medium	Low	SOS
White Lantern	325 lumens / 4.5 hours	170 lumens / 7.75 hours	30 lumens / 25 hours	N/A
Red Lantern	1.6 lumens / 22 hours	N/A	N/A	1.6 lumens / 90 hours
Flashlight	300 lumens	N/A	40 lumens / 25 hours	N/A

A single 18650 lithium battery or a pair of CR123A batteries can be used to power the Siege X USB. However, as you might guess from its name, the retail version of this lantern will include a special 18650 battery with a built-in Micro USB charge port directly on the battery. Our sample didn't include this new battery, so we used a standard blue Streamlight 18650 we already had on hand — it's still rechargeable as long as you have a charging cradle or another 18650 flashlight with a built-in USB charging port.

Streamlight ProTac 90 Siege X flashlight lantern review light EDC 25

The Siege X USB will include one USB-rechargeable 18650 battery.

The power button contains a battery life indicator that changes from green, to yellow, to red, and finally flashing red as the battery charge depletes.

We've used a variety of camping lanterns over the years, and the Siege X USB strikes us as an impressive package at its $75 MSRP. It's extremely compact, unlike the bulky incandescent lanterns of the past — you could even fit it in a pocket if necessary. The primary lantern output is enough to light a whole room at full blast, and more than enough for a small campsite or tent. Runtime is respectable in either mode, and the battery indicator ensures it won't go dark unexpectedly. Although we didn't get to test the new 18650 with built-in USB charging port, the light works great with a standard 18650 or two CR123As.

Here's a recap of our thoughts about the Siege X USB:

Pros:

Surprisingly powerful for its handheld size
Always-on battery indicator eliminates worries about remaining runtime
Dual hangers leave no shortage of suspension options
Flashlight offers a long-distance illumination option

Cons:

The flashlight works fine as a backup, but it's still not as effective as a dedicated flashlight or headlamp.
Battery cap pops off with a quarter-turn and little effort. We'd prefer slightly more secure retention.

For more information on the new ProTac 90 and Siege X USB, go to Streamlight.com.

Plug ‘Em Up: Puncture Wound First Aid

Posted on January 18, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In This Article

“The Golden Hour”
First, Gather Information
The Basics of Treatment
Special Situations
Simplified Treatment
Medical Kits
About the Author

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

WARNING: This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide on procedures relating to the treatment of puncture wounds. To be prepared for any emergency, we encourage you enroll in a certified medical course or, at minimum, a familiarization course, which will deliver comprehensive knowledge of how to treat different types of puncture wounds.

The unfortunate reality is that injuries may occur to you or those around you at anytime and without warning. One such type of injury is a puncture wound. How you deal with a wound of this kind and how quickly it is dealt with can save a life, allow time to get someone to safety, or at least prolong the victim’s survival time for help to arrive.

The definition of a puncture wound is: “A traumatic injury caused by skin penetration by an object, such as a knife, nail, or slender fragment of metal, wood, glass, or other material that does not move laterally from the point of entry.” Puncture wounds come in various forms and severities. A post-disaster urban environment is fraught with dangers that can contribute to puncture wounds. Fallen debris, broken glass, and exposed rebar are just a few of the dangers in which you could be accidentally injured. More lethal manmade varieties of puncture wounds, including wounds caused by a bullet, a knife, or an arrow are hazards you should be prepared to deal with, as well.

The severity of a puncture wound greatly dictates the actions that should be taken. Some minor wounds that are non-life-threatening can be treated in the field, using basic supplies that allow the patient to be stabilized for long periods of time. Other wounds can be very traumatic, making it imperative that the patient receives more advanced care. The goal in the field is to provide treatment to extend the survival time of the patient until proper help can arrive.

“The Golden Hour”

The human body has the remarkable ability to compensate for many types of injuries in order to keep the body alive. Despite its best efforts, the body can only compensate for so long and its ability to do so is dependent on the severity of the injury. Emergency medical personnel generally have one hour, which is referred to as “the golden hour,” after a wound is created to stabilize patients and reduce the amount of trauma to the body for the best chance of survival. When treating a puncture wound, remember that time is of the essence, so fast action is imperative. If the proper decision is made for the type of treatment in relationship to the type of injury, survivability may increase.

First, Gather Information

If you come across a situation where you need to treat a puncture wound, there are a few pieces of information you need to determine first before proceeding with treatment.

Wounding Object Depending on what kind of object that created the wound, you will either need to carefully remove it or leave it in. If it is easily removed, carefully remove the object from the victim. If it is something, such as a serrated knife, that might create more harm by its removal, then leave it in. However, when in doubt, leave the foreign object alone and bandage around the object.

Blood Loss
Most puncture wounds will not result in massive blood loss. Application of direct pressure followed up by a proper bandaging job should stem the blood flow until further care can be given. If massive blood flow is experienced, then a tourniquet might need to be employed, as well as a hemostatic agent. We go further into tourniquets later in this article.

Bleeding
There are three types of bleeding that can occur, depending on the situation and location of the injury to the body.

1. Arterial bleeding occurs when an artery is damaged. The blood is under high pressure, and the bleeding that occurs will be bright red in color. This type of blood being under high pressure will cause spurts with every heartbeat. Blood loss with this kind of bleeding is profuse and needs to be stopped as soon as possible.

2. Venous bleeding happens when a vein is punctured and is more of a steady flow of blood that is under low pressure. This blood is darker in color and will have a steady flow. Don’t be fooled, because blood loss from this kind of low-pressure bleeding can be quick, and fast action is required.

3. Capillary bleeding oozes from the wound and is under low pressure. If you have ever skinned your knee or cut yourself shaving, you have experienced capillary bleeding. The blood that comes from this kind of injury is bright in color, but is mostly superficial and not life-threatening.

Number of Punctures
In some cases, puncture wounds can have an entrance and exit place on the body. Not all projectiles causing puncture wounds will simply enter the body and stop. You may have to stop the bleeding in 2 or more places. You must be prepared for more than one area of damage to the body.

Puncture Location
Wounds to most extremities such as hands, feet, arms, and legs can be taken cared of with basic treatment, as long as the punctures do not hit any arteries. When dealing with this particular type of injury, simply applying direct pressure, using gauze, and wrapping the wound, or using a pressure dressing, will usually stop the bleeding. In the event the bleeding does not stop and the first bandage soaks through, then a tourniquet may need to be applied.

Above: Not all projectiles causing puncture wounds will simply enter the body and stop. Some puncture wounds can have an entrance and exit point on the body.

The Basics of Treatment

First and foremost, the following treatments are temporary and only delay the loss of blood until proper help can arrive. Call emergency services as soon as possible, if these treatments need to be administered. Although there are many variations for the treatment of puncture wounds, the basic idea is to stop the bleeding.

Above: Wounds to most extremities such as hands, feet, arms, and legs can be taken cared of with basic treatment, as long as the punctures do not hit any arteries.

The following steps can achieve stopping the bleeding, but an extreme amount of blood loss occurring may dictate you go directly to the use of a tourniquet.

Direct pressure
Pressure bandages
Tourniquets
Hemostatic (clotting) agents

Direct Pressure
Applying direct pressure to most puncture wounds will help slow or stop the bleeding. Placing a sterile barrier between your hand and the wound, such as gauze or a bandage, helps reduce the risk of infection. Wearing a protective latex-style glove is ideal. Keep pressure on the wound until bleeding stops. If it does not stop, apply a pressure bandage.

Above: Applying direct pressure to most puncture wounds will help slow or stop the bleeding.

Pressure Bandages
Pressure bandages compress the wound to help slow or stop bleeding to allow for clotting. Adhesive-backed pressure bandages are for application on areas such as the chest or the hand, while rolled bandages can be wrapped around wounds on limbs or the head. Gauze should be placed between the bandage and then wound to help soak up excess blood prior to applying the bandage. If bleeding continues, add more bandages, but do not remove the soaked bandage. If bleeding does not stop after multiple applications, the next step is to apply a tourniquet.

Above: Pressure bandages compress the wound to help slow or stop bleeding to allow for clotting.

Tourniquets
Tourniquets are deployed to stop excessive bleeding from a limb wound. They should be thought of as last resort options, since they completely stop blood flow to the limb and can result in the limb tissue dying, forcing an amputation of the limb.

There are four primary areas to apply a tourniquet: the brachial arteries (arms) and femoral arteries (legs). The objective and placement of the tourniquet is to get it as close to the core or torso as possible. You must apply the pressure in such a manner that the hose or artery is compressed against a bone. When you apply the tourniquet, the objective is to apply pressure and maintain that pressure until the blood flow slows to a minimum or ideally stops the blood loss from occurring any longer.

Above: There are four primary areas to apply a tourniquet: the brachial arteries (arms) and femoral arteries (legs).

Remember, a tourniquet is not to be used to stop bleeding from the head, the neck, or the torso and is to treat the major loss of blood from the extremities only. It is better to lose a limb than lose your life in worst-case situations.

Hemostatic Agents
Hemostatic, or clotting, agents should be used based on severity. If in the event that the injury is severe enough, high-pressure blood is being discharged from the body and applying a tourniquet is not completing the job, then a combination of a tourniquet and a hemostatic agent should be used. If there is no tourniquet available, but you have a hemostatic agent, then the agent becomes the first line of defense with some sort of a pressure bandage working in conjunction.

Improvised Supplies
Bandages: Tear up any kind of material, such as clothing, towels, or sheets, to use for bandages if proper bandages are not available. Clean strips of cloth are important, but when in a pinch, use whatever you can to stop the bleeding.

Tourniquets: A belt can be used as an improvised tourniquet in a pinch, or anything wide and flat that can be wrapped around an extremity.

Special Situations

Chest Wounds
Puncture wounds to the chest region may be more difficult in nature as the type of wound could affect the lungs or even the heart. If you’ve seen the movie, Three Kings, you might be familiar with the segment of the movie where they show a penetrating wound from a bullet that resulted in a “sucking chest wound.” A sucking chest wound is no bueno! As time goes, air enters the chest and starts to compress the lung resulting in a pneumothorax, which is the phenomenon of excess air creating space between the lung and chest wall which makes normal breathing difficult to impossible.

Head Wounds
This is one of those areas that are very hard to assess and treat. The only true life-saving technique is to apply direct pressure and quick transport to a hospital. Any object that punctures the head must be stabilized in the position found, so do not remove it. A trauma center is the only possibility that will save this person’s life.

Simplified Treatment

Without getting into too much detail and any form of advanced treatment, the objective is to apply an occlusive dressing to the chest area that has been subject to the wound. If this wound is in fact a sucking chest wound and if there are obvious signs of labored breathing, such as air bubbles and blood coming from a hole, then the occlusive dressing should be applied. The military is currently employing HALO chest seals. This is a large piece of clear plastic material with a very strong adhesive.

There are two issues that must be addressed with applying a chest seal of some sort. Now, if you do not have a HALO seal, you can use a piece of plastic and tape all sides down. But, if you do have a HALO seal, then make sure you wipe away as much blood as possible first, and then apply the seal. Check the back or the front of the victim, and look for an exit hole, as well. If there is one, apply a chest seal to that area, as well. Once the seals have been applied, you will have to monitor the person and possibly burp or release pressure by lifting up one side of the dressing.

Medical Kits

There are several different types of kits on the market. The first question you need to ask yourself is: What’s my level of training? There is no point in purchasing a trauma surgical kit, if you are not trained how to use it. But, a good blow-out kit, a first-aid kit, a vehicle medical kit, or a home medical kit will be a good thing to have. Actually, it would be best to have several kits listed above in those locations. For more on blow-out kits, take a look at our articles on pocket-sized trauma kits and basic first aid kits.

About the Author

Certified as an EMT-I since 1994, Charles Ferrera spent eight years as an EMT-I on emergency transport units for a fire department. He also has eight years experience as a firefighter and is currently a government contractor for the U.S. State Department High Threat Division. Assigned to Baghdad from 2006-2009, he served in Iraq as a PSS/EMT-I under a U.S. DOS contract. Aside from being an American Heart Basic Life Support instructor for health care providers, he is ACLS Advanced Cardiac Life Support certified and is currently a firearms and tactical medical instructor for Falcon Operations Group (www.falconops.net).

Avoiding Dehydration, Heat Exhaustion, & Heat Stroke

Posted on January 17, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In This Article

Dehydration
Heat Exhaustion
Heat Stroke
General Rules For Treating Heat Illness
About the Author

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

What is heat stroke or even heat exhaustion? How many of you reading this article have experienced body overheating in one form or another? Can you specifically recall a time and place and how you felt during that situation?

A simple yet effective way to identify heat stroke or the potential of becoming a heat casualty (there are three forms of heat-related issues) is to keep in mind whether or not you’re urinating within a reasonable amount of time after consuming fluids. Basic rule of thumb, if you’re not peeing, you’re not drinking enough.

The three main types of heat-related issues are dehydration, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke. These three types are listed here in severity from least damaging to the worst possible scenario.

Dehydration

Signs of Dehydration:

Headache
Dry mouth
Potential diarrhea
Vomiting
Fever
Excessive sweating
Cramps
Dizziness

Dehydration is losing more fluid than you are taking in. If your body doesn’t have enough water or fluids such as Gatorade, Propel, or another type of fluid that has electrolytes, sodium, and potassium, then dehydration may occur and occur rapidly.

Don’t be fooled by the weather. People don’t just suffer from dehydration in searing heat. It could be a cool 50 degrees Fahrenheit out, but you can still suffer from dehydration if you are doing strenuous activities. One can perspire and not realize it until it’s too late. If your activity level is high, then you are burning calories and utilizing fluids; no matter if you feel hot or not — you are sweating. Those fluids must be replenished.

Signs of dehydration include headache, dry mouth, potential diarrhea, vomiting, fever, excessive sweating, cramps, and dizziness. In mild to moderate cases, the ability to reverse this problem is simple. Attempt to remove yourself from the heat exposure if possible and drink plenty of fluids. There is also such a thing called an “Oral IV,” which can be found at some sporting goods stores and will assist your body in rapid or increased hydration. They are great to have for emergency situations.

Heat Exhaustion

Signs of Heat Exhaustion:

Dizziness
Weakness
Paleness
Heavy sweating
Moist skin
Nausea
Vomiting
Fainting

Flickr.com/sworldguy

Heat exhaustion occurs when being exposed to high temperatures for long periods of time. It can be the precursor to heat stroke and is identified by dizziness, weakness, paleness, heavy sweating, moist skin, nausea, vomiting, and even fainting. A person suffering from heat exhaustion can also have a fast and weak pulse. The best thing to do is to get the person affected to a cool, shady place, have them drink plenty of non-caffeinated, non-alcoholic fluids, and have them take a cool shower or bath.

Heat Stroke

Signs of Heat Stroke:

Headache
Dry mouth
Potential diarrhea
Vomiting
Fever
Excessive sweating
Cramps
Dizziness
Confusion
Disorientation
Loss of consciousness
Seizures

Heat stroke, also known as sunstroke, is similar to running a high-grade fever, which can and will eventually result in damage to the brain and other vital organs. Each year during summer, we hear on the news that an elderly person died from heat stroke. Normally, this affects older people, but it can also affect an athlete hiking in the mountains on a nice warm summer day just as easily. It should be treated as a serious type of medical emergency. If you discover someone suffering from heat stroke, call 911, because this person is more than likely disoriented and needs IV fluids as soon as possible.

Heat stroke usually occurs with a steady progression from mild dehydration to serious illness. So, all of the signs and the symptoms listed for dehydration apply, as well. Adults can also experience nausea, vomiting, confusion, disorientation, and loss of consciousness, all the while experiencing seizures. Oh, and let’s not forget one of the telltale signs, a throbbing headache the size of Texas! In more extreme cases, heat syncope, loss of consciousness, or decreased LOC (level of consciousness) may occur, as well. In children and infants, we see febrile seizures, which are convulsions brought on by fever.

So, why does the body shut down, and why does high body temperature affect the brain and other organs? There is a thermometer in the brain called the hypothalamus. This is the portion of the brain that helps regulate body temperature, and if you overload this monitor built into your brain, it simply shuts down. Typically, this will occur around a core body temperature of 105 degrees Fahrenheit.

General Rules For Treating Heat Illness

Treatment for heat-related issues are pretty straightforward, unless you do not address the situation in a responsible amount of time. But, as with all emergencies, playing it safe and calling 911, if possible, is not a bad idea. In the event that you are in a remote area with no cell phone reception or emergency services are unavailable, there are things you can do. Following these simple steps will help:

Move the patient to a cooler area and away from direct sunlight/heat.
Have the patient drink plenty of fluids, both water and sports-type drinks. As mentioned earlier, an Oral IV is a great item to have.
Monitor the amount of fluid intake and the amount of urination.
Remove any unnecessary clothing when in a cooler environment.
Fan the patient while placing wet clothing, wet sponges, or even ice packs on the armpit, the groin, and the back of the neck areas.
If possible, submerge the patient in a body of water that is not too cold, but don’t shock the body from one extreme to the other.

Tools to always have with you:

Hydration pack of some sort.
Plenty of water and electrolyte-replacement fluids.
Oral IV.

When caught early, heat illnesses can be stopped and its effects can be reversed. It is a good idea to monitor how the patient feels and make sure they follow up with a visit to the doctor, just to make sure that everything is fine. Remember that prevention is the best medicine; don’t forget to drink the proper fluids when you are active.

About the Author

Video: Peeling & Eating Barrel Cactus

Posted on January 16, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In the desert, the sandy landscape may seem like it contains few of the resources needed for survival, but that's not necessarily the case. Keep in mind that many Native American tribes thrived in this environment for centuries — with the right knowledge and skills, you can do the same. Most of it comes down to making the most of all the resources you can get your hands on.

Cacti are one valuable item you'll find throughout the desert. These plants can be a bit tricky to deal with as a result of their spines, but many contain useful moisture and edible pulp. In the video below, Texas-based survival instructor Bob Hansler shows how he safely prepares a small barrel cactus.

Before we proceed, an important note: while many species of cacti are edible, you'll need to be cautious how you prepare them and how much you consume. The flesh and juice of many succulent plants contains acids and alkaloids that can make you sick. Some species of cactus are relatively low in these substances and can be eaten raw in limited quantities, while others have higher concentrations that can cause vomiting and diarrhea. Cooking can break down these substances to increase edibility, and distillation can be used to isolate potable water from the cactus juice.

You should always check guides on local wild edibles and/or consult experts before consuming any cactus, especially raw. In an emergency, sampling tiny amounts via the Universal Edibility Test can also help you avoid adverse effects.

That said, the small barrel cactus Bob picks is easy to process using nothing but some gloves and a sharp knife. He says the pulp is similar to a cucumber or underripe melon, but with a slightly gritty texture. That may not sound particularly tasty, but as we said before, you need to make the most of what you've got. Watch the full video below:

New: UCO Ware All-in-One Mess Kits

Posted on January 15, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

When you're hiking, camping, or backpacking far from civilization, meal time is sacred. Sitting down to rest and enjoy some hot food provides an opportunity to recuperate from many hard miles on the trail. You're not exactly going to whip out the lace doilies and salad fork in the backwoods, but that doesn't mean you need to eat like a savage, either. A good mess kit serves as a vessel for your food and offers utensils to eat with. These items must also be lightweight, durable, and easy to clean.

UCO has released some new all-in-one mess kits that are intended to meet these needs, while also acting as a self-contained storage system for leftovers or other tools. The Four-Piece Mess Kit is built from tough polypropylene, with anti-slip TPE (thermoplastic rubber) grips. It consists of a bowl and a lid/plate that fit together like a clamshell, plus a UCO utility spork. These pieces are held together via a stretchy shock cord tether that runs through holes in the spork and around the plate/bowl handles, creating a leak-proof seal.

The second option from UCO is the Bamboo Elements Mess Kit, which is composed of a blend of natural bamboo fiber and corn starch stabilized into a hard polymer. That might sound like a strange combination of materials, but when we handled it at a recent trade show we found it to be surprisingly sturdy-feeling, much like fiber-reinforced nylon.

Left: Bamboo Elements Mess Kit / Right: Four-Piece Mess Kit

Like the Four-Piece kit, it includes a bowl, a plate/lid, a spork, and a shock cord tether. However, the spork is a two-piece Switch Spork, which serves as a knife, fork, and spoon.

UCO ware mess kit food plate spork bowl meal camping 3

A line of UCO Utility Sporks, with Switch Sporks at top and bottom.

MSRP for the Four-Piece Mess Kit is $15; the five-piece Bamboo Elements Mess Kit is $20. Each kit offers several color choices, ranging from plain grey or tan to high-visibility blue or orange. These kits will be available starting tomorrow, January 16th, on UCOgear.com.

New: Grey Ghost Gear T.Q. Hydration Pack

Posted on January 14, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

Grey Ghost Gear has been expanding its offerings in the backpack market — check out our previous in-depth review of the Gypsy pack, for example. Most recently, GGG has released a new small pack for those who require a hydration aspect to their every-day carry setup. They call it simply the T.Q. Hydration Pack. A press release explains, “If you plan on going for a run that doesn't require a fully loaded ruck, then smaller is most certainly better. However, most hydration bags are only designed to hold your bladder, maybe some trail mix and that's it. If you've ever had to stuff your keys or wallet in your socks, this one goes out to you!”

While the T.Q. abbreviation might have you thinking about tourniquets, it actually stands for Thirst Quencher. Available in 3 different urban-friendly two-tone colorways as well as a solid coyote brown option, this pack is designed to blend into urban environments without looking excessively tactical. It's manufactured using a proprietary diamond pattern Grey Ghost Ripstop material and LiteLok fabric. The company says this yields a 30% weight reduction from regular 500D Cordura nylon while providing water-resistance and lower visibility in low light environments.

The T.Q.'s main compartment has a sleeve for your 3L hydration bladder, with a drinking tube port and elastic bands on each shoulder strap for securing the tube. This compartment also has room for a light jacket or change of clothes, as well as a zippered pouch for smaller items.

The next pocket serves as an admin pouch for your flashlight, pen, knife, keys, and other small essentials. Two adjustable side straps allow you to compress the contents of this pocket as well as the main compartment, so they don't bounce and shift as you hike or jog.

The front pouch offers quick access to slim items such as a smartphone, mini first aid kit, or notebook. Two loops on the front of this pouch offer attachment points for identification lights or carabiners. Finally, there's a concealed bottom pocket with a stowable rain cover — a useful feature to protect your gear from getting soaked by unpredictable weather conditions.

The TQ Hydration Pack is available in Black Diamond/Orange Heather, Black Diamond/Black Heather, Black Diamond/Grey Heather, and Coyote Brown. Total volume is 594ci, which is just under 10 liters. MSRP is $110. For more information, go to GreyGhostGear.com.

Reader’s Tip: Home Water Storage Systems

Posted on January 13, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In This Article

Rainwater Collection
Water Pumping & Distribution
Conclusions

We've stayed in touch with a reader who goes by the nickname Mountain Goat, and he often shares pieces of advice based on his firsthand experience working towards self-sufficiency on his remote ranch in the Southwest. In the past, we've posted his tips on layered outerwear for driving in harsh winter weather and quick-access clothing for nighttime emergencies. Today's topic is water storage — this conversation came up after he read the article on this same topic from Issue 28 of our magazine.

Here's what Mountain Goat wrote about his philosophy on emergency water storage:

Your article on Long-Term Water Storage for Survival was good advice to wake people up to the fact that they need to store water. Storing backup water is something I've done most of my adult life. Many years ago I was living in an apartment, and this habit paid off when the maintenance people unexpectedly turned off the water. I didn't skip a beat and just continued getting ready for work. It wasn't a life or death situation, but it was a good example of the importance of having an emergency supply on hand.

These days, I live on a ranch. We currently carry 4 gallons of water in the back of each of our vehicles, in addition to a more-than-adequate supply of drinking water in the passenger compartment. We also have about 100,000 gallons of stored water on the property. I'll discuss the details of this setup below.

Rainwater Collection

The photo above shows a 500-gallon tank to collect water from the downspout of one of our cabins. Please note the metal roof. We don't use Clorox or a system of dumping out and replacing water. We filter the water through a British Berkfield (Berkie) type water filter:

Looking closely, you can see that these are actually different brands, but we call them all Berkies. The filter elements are interchangeable. The ceramic filter elements can be cleaned with an abrasive scrubber and rarely need to be replaced. This is an upper and lower manual pour-through design which doesn't require any water pressure or electric power. We use the filtered water for our cooking and drinking and unfiltered water for washing.

This photo is one of our large holding tanks for storage of surface water. This one is 200,000 gallons. Water tanks can be expensive, roughly $1 a gallon, so we collect surface water in ponds that we have dug and dammed in a place where water naturally runs. Then we pump it up into the holding tanks.

In the southwest the ponds are called dirt tanks. Here's a picture of a dirt tank and a solar panel with a fence around it to keep animals from jumping on the panel:

Water Pumping & Distribution

We usually pump with what is called direct-drive solar. In this case it is a 24-volt DC pump in the tank with a 24-volt solar array powering it. Direct-drive means there are no batteries, no electronic controller, and no inverter. The panel is wired directly to the pump. It simply pumps when the sun shines on the panel. This system works amazingly well. The pump is a cylindrical type designed to be submerged by lowering into a well. The pumps are in the $800 range so with the panels, submersible wiring, and flexible pipe the cost is maybe $1200 plus. Unfortunately the pump needs to be rebuilt every few years.

We also have gas powered pumps that we use occasionally. The dirt tank water is used to water gardens and livestock.

Someone living in an urban area may want to obtain a rain catching tank that's as large as possible, put it behind their high fence, then pump the extra water to an even larger storage tank hidden in the back of the property. All this is depending on the size of the property, of course.

Here's a tank that we use to store extra roof water in if the tank that collects it off the roof gets full to overflowing. We pump it up there with a gas-powered pump. One can also pump water from one storage tank to another by lowering the 24V DC pump into the full tank with the solar panels leaning up against the tank. We commonly do this.

Here's a portable “water buffalo” trailer which we can tow somewhere to either collect or deliver water. Note the small gas-powered pump in the bed next to the tank. We currently use this to water a garden, so it's permanently parked there.

If you'd like to learn more about water storage, I suggest a book by Brad Lancaster titled “Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond, Vol 1”.

Cheers. Thanks for the valuable service that RECOIL OFFGRID provides. It amazes me that most people seem to think that disasters are things that happen somewhere else. Happy water saving!

Conclusions

There's a lot of great info here — we especially appreciate the portion about building a standalone solar-powered water pump. This is a great solution for collecting water from an existing pond or a manmade collection tank, and it's low-maintenance and doesn't require connection to the electrical grid. Best of all, aside from the initial investment in this system, keeping it running is essentially free.

Of course, having a gas-powered backup pump for quick access is also wise. The “water buffalo” trailer serves this purpose and is also portable, so it serves as both a collection tool and a transportation vessel.

If you'd like to contact Mountain Goat for any questions about his water collection and storage system, you can email him at mudsnowchains@gmail.com. And if you have a valuable emergency preparedness tip you'd like to share with our readers, we want to hear it. Click here to send an email to our web editor.

How to Prepare for a Long-Term Power Outage

Posted on January 12, 2019 at 6:00 am.

Written by Patrick McCarthy

In This Article

Water
Food
Heating
Cooling
Hygiene & Sanitation
First Aid & Medicines
Alternate Energy
Network Connection
5 Blackout Precautions

This article was originally published in Issue 1 of our magazine.

Our society depends so much on electrical power. Every aspect of our homes and workplaces run on electricity. We expect that when we flip the switch, the lights turn on. But, what happens if they don’t? What if Mother Nature throws a massive tornado or a sudden blizzard at you? Or some other crisis breaks out? What about an EMP attack?

Time is the single biggest factor. What kind of time are we talking about? A few hours or possibly more than 30 days? The correct response is, it doesn’t matter. Depending on the event, there might not be a need to evacuate, but rather hunker down. It’s just a matter of how we prep our dwellings to deal with such an emergency.

Obviously, there will be different plans for different homes in different regions. So, there’s no “one size fits all” blackout plan. This is why it’s important to already have preparations in place. These preparations start with your basic needs: food, water, and the type of shelter you have. You’ll also need to consider heating and cooling, hygiene and sanitation, and first aid and medicines. You’ll need to plan how to meet these basic needs when you don’t have electricity and how you’ll modify your plans based on your type of residence.

Water

A person needs at least 1 gallon of water a day.

H20 is one of the most important basic needs in any circumstance, so water storage must be part of your blackout plan. The first step is to know your source. How does your building or house receive its water? Do you have your own well, or are you connected to city water? Is it pumped or gravity-fed?

How much water do we need in a power outage? A common answer is at least 1 gallon a day. But, you’ll also need half a gallon to a gallon for cooking … and then there’s the issue of sanitation and hygiene. Now, let’s assume that the electricity has been cut for 30 days. That calls for quite a bit of water stored in your little apartment. So, what are some alternatives?

Get to know your surroundings. Does your building have an emergency backup generator system? How reliable is the system, and has it ever failed? If you live in a building that has more than two stories, then water can be obtained via gravity. Most buildings, by code, have one or more purge valves that enable the complete draining of the entire pipe infrastructure.

Next, get to know your neighbors. That community cooperative really plays a big part. Have the superintendent show the designated folks where the central drain valves are; normally they’re located in the basement at the lowest point. Drain all of the individual units by turning on the faucets, grab empty jugs or large pots, and head to the basement. By using gravity and reversing the flow, the building now has thousands of gallons of clean potable drinking water, which was previously trapped within the pipes.

Above: A tub-liner bag placed in a standard bathtub can be used to store almost 100 gallons of water.

If you have roof access to your building, you can implement natural rain catches with buckets, tarps, and so on. You can also purchase tub-liner bags. They are food-grade plastic and perfectly safe for holding water. You simply line the tub with this enormous plastic bag and, at the onset of a storm, but before SHTF, fill it with water. With the standard bathtub, you will get almost 100 gallons of water.

In colder climates, snow is another source of emergency water—but there is a process. Never eat snow. Melt it first. Why? First, eating snow will lower your core temperature, thus increasing the risk of hypothermia. Second, it will actually dehydrate you. The body will use twice as much water in the process of melting the snow to absorb it. So, don’t eat snow, especially not yellow snow—it’s not lemon flavor. Remember, just like any other rule of foraging, be mindful of the environment it came from and hope it’s free of any pollution or toxins.

Food

Common sense tells us to keep nonperishable items around. Make sure what you’ve stored is quality. When you need to keep warm, proper caloric intake is crucial.

Another thing to keep in mind: What kind of stove do you have? Is it electric or gas? If it’s gas, you’re in good shape. Think about food that doesn’t require a stove. However, be mindful of these “survival” or “emergency” dehydrated foods. They usually have very large amounts of sodium. These types of MREs were originally designed for soldiers who needed to replenish electrolytes and calories expended under intense physical activity. This may not be ideal as a long-term sustainable food.

Above: For cooking, gas stoves will still work in the event of a power outage. However, since you’re dealing with gas, turning on the gas oven and stovetop to heat the apartment is not a good idea.

Next time you go shopping, buy at least one or two extra items that you know you will put aside for blackouts. This will help stretch out the workload in terms of your prepping.

Heating

If a power outage occurs during the wintertime, layered clothes will play a significant role. Silk and wool should become your best friends. Even when wet, they still provide insulation—unlike cotton, which can actually increase the chance of hypothermia when wet.

For example, the electricity in my apartment was out for more than two weeks. It was also in the dead of winter. So, I layered up as if I were outside camping. I started with 100-percent silk long underwear, a long-sleeve shirt, and bottoms. Next was a layer of 100-percent wool long underwear, wool socks, and a wool hat. Then, I continued with standard street clothes and a jacket.

If you have the ability to heat up water, sip on hot water. I like to add chunks of ginger to hot water. Ginger is a wonderful root that helps heat the core temperature. Stay away from caffeine. It dehydrates you, thus keeping you colder than necessary.

Another trick is making a secondary shelter within your home, like “playing fort” when you were a kid. Lean a mattress and box spring against each other like an A-frame tent. Take couch cushions and stuff the ends. Then layer all the blankets and comforters on top of everything. Make your shelter small and low, because it’ll trap your body heat and warm the air. For those people who live in cities, pay attention to the masters of urban survival: the homeless. Observe the way they make their shelters, the materials they used, and the manner in which they use those materials.

On the flip side, avoid dangerous techniques for keeping warm, such as turning your gas oven and stovetop on full blast to heat the apartment. It’s not a good idea, since you’re dealing with gas. Also, don’t light small fires inside of steel pots in the middle of your living room. Don’t laugh. People have done this—with tragic results.

Cooling

Above: Pulling the shades down or putting up white sheets in front of the windows will help reflect the sun away from the interior.

Staying cool in the summer is just as important as staying warm in the winter. Once again, layering comes into play. While cotton can kill in the winter, it’s actually preferred in the summer because it helps keep your body cool. If needed, dispense with clothes all together and strip down to your birthday suit.

There are also little tricks you can try. Make a simple hand fan like the good old days, spritz yourself with water, and fan away. You can also rip up a bandana and soak it in cold water. Take the strips of the cloth and loosely tie it around your pulse points, around each ankle and wrist, and around the neck. Remember to tie it loosely.

Be sure to keep the sun out. Pull the shades down or put up white sheets in front of the windows. This will help reflect the sun away from the interior.

Tip: Don’t drink ice water to keep you cool. Like eating snow, the body will have to work twice as hard to heat the water up to absorb it. Instead, try one of my favorite recipes: Get room-temperature water from a countertop jug, then add slices of cucumber, freshly squeezed lemon, and crushed mint.

Hygiene & Sanitation

When it comes to hygiene, nothing changes. Keep yourself clean, as you always do. Just be mindful about the amount of water that you’re using. Some people resort to conserving by giving themselves the old sponge bath or go without it for a few days.

Sanitation is also an essential factor, when dealing with water. If you have a standard toilet with a water tank, then this isn’t so bad at all. However, you may have to alter the practice a little bit. An old phrase goes like this, “If it’s pee, then let it be.” If you have to do No. 2, then put water in the back tank, do your business, and then flush.

First Aid & Medicines

It goes without saying that you should have a first aid kit, your prescriptions, and things like eye glasses stored safely in your home. But, what about others? Another important reason to know your neighbors is for the simple support system that can help during a crisis like this. Are you aware of the elderly in the building? How about the disabled folks who can’t leave without the use of an elevator? How many folks need medical attention or prescriptions?

It’s up to their neighbors to bring back extra food, water, resources, and medicines to those who can’t leave their homes. I have known cases where people have left the building, removed their car batteries, and brought them in to help power medical machines.

Alternate Energy

Just because the power’s out doesn’t mean you’re powerless. Thanks to modern technology, we now have things called generators—solar generators and kinetic chargers.

There are multi-fuel portable generators, standard gasoline generators, and diesel generators. Regardless of the fuel, these types of machines are to be used outdoors. You have the option of running the cord from the generator into the house and plugging in the refrigerator and a couple other essential items. However, if you own a home and if it’s feasible, get a professional to hardwire an appropriate generator for your home. Do the research, find a pro, and do it right.

Portable generators such as the Yamaha EF6300iSDE are created for quiet back-up power. Designed as a backup energy source for homes, the EF6300iSDE has dual 120/240 volt output and is powerful enough to run most residential well pumps. It can power a freezer and electric water heater for more than 10.5 hours, depending on load, on a single tank of gas. Portable generators are a practical tool for possible power outages due to ice storms, hurricanes, tornadoes, and other infrastructure failures.

Yamaha EF6300iSDE Specs

Maximum AC Output
6,300 watts

Rated AC Output
5,500 watts

Continuous Operation
13.3 hrs at 1⁄4 rated load

Noise Level
58 ~ 64 dBA

Dimensions
30.7L x 24.3W x 27.2H in

Empty Weight
200 lbs.

Fuel Capacity
4.5 gal

MSRP
$4,099

URL
www.yamaha-motor.com

Solar panels have come a long way. If you’re a homeowner, you can install these things on the roof. If you live in a high-rise, consider small portable panels with large-capacity backup batteries, which make for a great alternative. Some of these devices allow you to charge your laptops and cell phones while powering your refrigerator. These types of devices come in all shapes and sizes. Again, do the research and determine the best unit for your needs.

Network Connection

Finally, I want to share with you a little idea I call “community crisis connecting.” If you’re like me, you’ll stop for anyone who might need help; that’s just how I roll. But, what about your neighbors? Are they prepared to help? As mentioned, having a group, neighborhood, or building collective can be an effective force for good.

Does your community have an emergency plan? If so, what kind? How often do you guys get together and discuss or practice it? Is there a doctor around? Do you have first aid and CPR training? Why would it matter during a blackout?

Above: Having a group, neighborhood, or building collective can be an effective force for good. Get together on a regular basis to discuss or practice an emergency plan.

The more people in your community, the higher the chance of people needing help in an emergency. But, it’s better to know these things than not, no matter the situation. If you’re set up with all of your preparations, then during a blackout, you’ll have more time to help others. This is what it means to have a community. A real community. Make a plan.

Just because we build homes, bridges, and infrastructure doesn’t mean that Mother Nature is going to comply with our designs. She is going to do what she has done for thousands and thousands of years. So, get over it and make the best of the situation.

RECOIL OFFGRID Tidbit: The biggest blackout in U.S. history happened on August 14, 2003, when more than 50 million people over a span of eight States and a Canadian Province were affected by a poorly maintained electrical system. Blackouts can happen at any time. Be prepared.

5 Blackout Precautions

FEMA suggests only using flashlights for emergency lighting and not candles to reduce the risk of fire.
When your car’s fuel tank drops to half, it’s time to fill up. Gas stations rely on electricity for their fuel pumps, so if there’s no power, there’s no gas, either.
Make sure you know how to use your electric garage door’s emergency release. Also, if you use it as your primary access to your home, be sure to have a key to your house just in case.
Leaving water in your refrigerator and freezer helps keep it cooler in case of a power outage, keeping food good for longer.
Most medications that require refrigeration can be kept in a refrigerator for several hours without a problem. When in doubt, consult your doctor or pharmacist.

For more tips, see FEMA’s website at www.ready.gov.