Bag Drop: Hiking the Grand Canyon with an Osprey Kestrel 48

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Hiking the Grand Canyon from the south rim to the north rim is a challenging hike that'll test you mentally and physically — perhaps even spiritually — but will compensate you with an experience steeped in unique natural beauty. At the end, it'll fill you with a feeling of accomplishment that's almost overwhelming. Most people who've hiked rim to rim will break it up over multiple days to lessen the physical burden and to take more time to enjoy the journey. That’s the wise way to do it.

Above: The Grand Canyon offers stunning views and challenging terrain for multi-day hikes. (Photo via Flickr.com/geewhypics – CC BY 2.0)

Three fellow firefighters and I decided we were going to take things a step further and hike rim to rim to rim — across the canyon and back. Not only that, but we did the initial south-rim-to-north-rim trek in one day, and then broke up the return trip over three days. This itinerary dictated we carry four days’ worth of supplies on our backs from one rim of the Grand Canyon to the other, factoring in gear that'd account for snow and ice at the rims and triple-digit heat at the bottom of the canyon, with over 24 miles and 11,000 feet of elevation change between the two points.

Osprey Kestrel 48 Hiking Pack

For this expedition I used an Osprey Kestrel 48. In my mind, a 48-liter pack is too large for an overnight hike, but too small for thru-hiking, so it seemed to fit our agenda. Osprey has a reputation of being relatively affordable and highly durable. I needed a pack that was tough and dependable. The backpack itself weighs about 3.5 pounds and has several features that were important to me. The Airscape ridged back panel that allowed my back to breathe, the multiple accessible pockets, side zipper access to the main compartment, and “stow on the go” trekking pole attachments were all key components that fit my personal backpack checklist. Additionally, the zippered waist strap pockets provided quick and easy access to smaller, commonly used items.

Make & Model
Osprey Kestrel 48

MSRP
$180

URL
osprey.com

Pack Contents

I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for, especially in the world of adventure and survival, but I also have to operate within my budget. This trip required me to balance high quality in some areas and affordability in others, all at the lightest weight possible. For certain pieces of gear, I spent more to get the quality I needed, and compromised a bit on others. In some aspects, I purposely packed items that added weight but benefitted my overall utility and/or happiness. It’s most certainly a game of give and take.

The gear I packed into the Osprey Kestrel 48:

  • Tent (MSR Carbon Reflex 1)
  • Sleeping bag (Hyke & Byke 15-degree F650)
  • Sleeping pad (ThermaRest NeoAire Xlite)
  • Trekking poles (Leki MCT 12 Vario Carbon)
  • Pillow (RikkiTikki inflatable pillow)
  • Headlamps (2) (Foxelli USB rechargeable)
  • Hat
  • Sunglasses
  • Power bank (Getihu Ultra Slim Portable Charger)
  • Jetboil stove
  • Food (Mountain House meals, nuts, Goo packs, energy gel)
  • Water (CamelBak plus 2 Nalgenes)
  • Water Filter (Sawyer Mini)
  • Coffee mug (GSI Outdoors Infinity Mug)
  • Collapsible bowl (Sea to Summit)
  • Long-handle spork (Morsel Spork XL)
  • Toiletries
  • Sunblock (Sun Bum SPF 50 and lip balm)
  • Clothes (base layer/hat/gloves, convertible pants, sweat wicking underwear, socks, shirt)
  • First aid kit (including Leukotape and climbing salve)
  • Leatherman Micra
  • Lighter
  • Flip flops
  • Garmin inReach Mini satellite communicator

As any backpacker will tell you, there's an art to loading your pack. Some items, such as the sleeping bag, are packed deep inside to reduce, as much as possible, their likelihood of getting wet. Other items are stored in the periphery for quick access. For this trip, my philosophy was based on functionality.

Main Compartment

The main compartment of my Kestrel 48 contained the bulk of the larger, essential items. My sleeping bag, which squeezes down nicely thanks to the compression straps, went to the bottom along with my sleeping pad and tent. I spent extra money on an ultra-lightweight tent, and it was worth every penny. The MSR Carbon Reflex 1 weighs in at a whopping 1 pound, 7 ounces. You barely even know it’s there.

Next was my compression sack of clothes. I didn’t pack a lot — a single change of clothing, two extra pairs of socks and underwear and base layers were the extent of my wardrobe options. Because the weather forecast was dry with a 0-percent chance of rain, I felt cautiously confident about leaving my rain gear in the car.

Next were my cooking items: a small compression sack of food and coffee packets, my lightweight coffee mug, collapsible bowl, a spork, and a Jetboil. I wasn’t sure how hungry I'd be, but I knew that burning a lot of calories meant I had to put a lot of calories in, and I didn’t want to have to empty my pack if I was going to cook a meal. That proved to be more of a chore than I anticipated. I never really got hungry on the hike so I would have to remind myself to eat. The only other item I put on the inside of my pack was a heavily stickered water bottle that has been relegated to a single purpose — it’s for when nature calls in the middle of the night and I don’t want to leave the warmth of my tent. Its stickered decor is to ensure it's not confused with the other water bottle.

Exterior Pockets

The Osprey Kestrel 48 has a zippered lid compartment where I put my Garmin inReach Mini, first aid kit, a power charger, and my backup headlamp. I also put a lighter and my small bag of toiletries in this compartment. The zippered waist strap pockets were used to store items that could be accessed on the go without dropping the pack: my cell phone, a headlamp, sunblock, a Leatherman Micra, flavored electrolyte tablets, and energy snacks.

Finally, a segregated compartment on the bottom of the pack is where I kept some adverse weather options: a light jacket, a skull cap, gloves, and a pair of light flip-flops for evenings around the tent. The desert can freeze you out at night and unleash relentless heat during the day. Preparation for both was critical.

Closing Thoughts

This bag, with 3 liters of water split between an exterior bottle and a CamelBak, weighed in around 36 pounds. The first time I lifted it, fully loaded, I was surprised at how heavy it felt but then comforted with how natural it felt once on my back. Osprey does a superb job of providing options to customize how the load is carried on your back and hips. Outdoor enthusiasts will agree that one almost bonds with their gear when going toe-to-toe with the terrain and the elements. This pack gives me plenty of room without tempting me to fill it by offering excess space. It will be my go-to for many adventures to come.

More Bag Loadouts

If you're prepping a hiking pack or bug-out bag and need some inspiration, check out some of our previous Bag Drop loadouts:

Buyer’s Guide: Perimeter Defense Tools for Home Security

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According to the U.S. Bureau of Justice Statistics, every year about 3.7 million burglaries are committed in America. Roughly 28 percent of those burglaries take place while someone is present in the home and about 7 percent result in violent victimization of a resident. While those figures aren’t staggering, they aren’t particularly comforting either, especially if one of those unlucky homes happens to be yours. If you’re reading this magazine, odds are you already have some type of plan to deal with a potential home invader. Whether it’s accessing a weapon, hunkering down in a safe room, or a little of both, the key to implementing that plan is time. The longer it takes you to react and get your strategy in motion, the less likely it will be successful and the greater your chances of becoming a victim. However, when you consider the fact that 61 percent of burglaries of occupied residences occur at night and 38 percent while the residents are asleep, your visions of a perfectly choreographed split-second reaction plan start to fade pretty quickly. So how can you stack the odds in your favor by earning more reaction time? Easy. With perimeter defense tools.

Types of Perimeter Defense Tools

In simple terms, perimeter defense tools are passive devices designed to either bolster the physical security of your home or provide early warning of a security breach so you can drag your sleepy ass out of bed and get into fight mode. Technology-wise, they run the gamut from dead-simple objects like door wedges to sophisticated wireless alarms and infrared trip flares. Generally, however, they can be classified in three basic categories:

Physical barriers – These items reinforce the structural strength of doors or windows and either deny the bad guy access altogether or slow down his entry while making it a whole lot noisier. While the effectiveness of these products depends heavily on the doors they’re trying to strengthen, they offer both enhanced physical security and a form of early warning alarm.

Overt alarms – These alarms announce a perimeter breach to you, the bad guy, and everyone else in the area. In a residential context, these devices give you a head’s up to the threat and may be enough of a deterrent to cause the bad guy to cut and run. If your neighbors hear the alarm, they can also get involved by calling 9-1-1 and being good witnesses.

Covert alarms – These devices alert you to a perimeter breach without alerting your uninvited guest. As an auditory alarm that only you can hear, these devices can give you a useful edge. Visual covert alarms, however, are only useful if you are actively observing them when they are tripped.

Our Perimeter Defense Tool Buyer's Guide

The type or types of devices that are best for your needs depends upon the nature of your residence. If you live in the country on several acres of land, trip flares and trail guards could be a useful component of your perimeter defense plan. In a hotel room, vacation rental, or apartment, door wedges and stick-on alarms are much more appropriate.

No matter where you may call home, always make the physical security of all points of entry your first priority. The harder it is for a would-be intruder to get in, the more noise he’ll make in the process and the less tempted he’ll be to try in the first place. Many exterior doors — even those equipped with deadbolt locks — will not withstand a hard kick, so alarms that alert you to a breach of that perimeter still only give you a few seconds to react. As such, alarms should always be considered a supplement to physical security, never a replacement for it. Nevertheless, to be forewarned is to be forearmed, so let’s look at some of the technology that can help us achieve that goal.

Pro1Tek TAC-Wedge Plus

Above: The TAC-Wedge Plus is a doorstop on steroids that includes hardened steel spikes on the bottom to ensure it bites into the floor to hold fast.

Category: Physical Barrier

Dimensions: 5.40 by 3.50 by 2.26 inches

Weight: 6.4 ounces

Price: $29

URL: pro1tek.com

Above: To be effective, the TAC-Wedge Plus requires some space under the door. Its spikes are also not friendly to floors.

Notes:
This multi-function doorstop on steroids can be used to hold doors open, keep them shut, or make them almost impenetrable. When hammered or kicked into place under an inward-opening door, its four hardened steel spikes bite hard into the floor and make the door practically impossible to open. This makes it perfect for securing non-locking doors or reinforcing doors that do lock — provided there’s at least a small gap between the bottom of the door and the threshold. The design includes paracord loops to help remove it after use, but its instructions recommend using a baton or similar handle with the loops for added leverage. Although very effective in an emergency situation, the device’s steel spikes are not friendly to floors and will scratch them deeply if the device is used. As such, it doesn’t lend itself well to repetitive use as a regular home security feature. For interior doors that swing over carpeted floors — like a bedroom safe room — it’s more forgiving and could have some utility. It is not well suited to use on exterior doors, especially those with weatherstripping that are fit tight to the threshold. Finally, like all doorstop-style devices, the ultimate effectiveness of the TAC-Wedge Plus also depends on the structural strength of the door itself. If your bedroom has a hollow-core door that an angry 12-year-old can punch through, no doorstop will change that. For a teacher in a school active-shooter scenario, this product is awesome. As an element of a long-term home-defense plan, its potential is more limited.

Von Saint DoorJammer: Portable

Above: The DoorJammer kit includes a series of wedges to fill the gap at the top of a door and a stout screw-style doorstop that installs at the bottom.

Category: Physical Barrier

Dimensions: 4.37 by 2.36 by 2.80 inches

Weight: 8.8 ounces (with accessories)

Price: $30

URL: door-jammer.com

Above: The DoorJammer works well even on exterior doors with weather stripping at the bottom. However, it still relies on the strength of the door itself.

Notes:
Designed primarily for travelers for use in hotel rooms, this device consists of two steel pieces connected by a hinge. To use it, hook the base of the L-shaped piece under the bottom of an inward-opening door and turn the knob on the other piece to extend the threaded “foot.” When the foot reaches the floor, a few more turns wedges the DoorJammer tightly in place. Horizontal pressure on the door — like someone trying to push it in — redirects the energy downward into the floor to hold the door fast. For doors with significant space at the top or bottom, it comes complete with a set of rubber spacers and a molded extension foot to take up the slack. To remove the DoorJammer, simply rotate the knob to retract the foot or, in an emergency, just pull the whole unit upward. This device is made of sturdy metal and features rubber pads and friction tape on all its key contact surfaces so it can be installed and removed repeatedly without marring the door or floor. That quality makes it suitable for regular use in a home-security role, especially for apartments and rental properties where you may not be able to make permanent changes to the structure to bolster security. With that said, the DoorJammer is still only viable if the door it’s securing has a reasonably solid structure. If the doors in your home do, you might consider upgrading from the travel-sized version to the DoorJammer: Lockdown, which is about twice the size and designed for more strategic residential or office use. It retails for $50.

Global Security Experts OnGARD

Above: Inserting the OnGARD’s top plate into the slots in the base plate.

Category: Physical Barrier

Dimensions: Bottom Plate: 10 by 2.5 by 0.5 inches; Top Plate: 9.25 by 1.0 by 2.75 inches

Weight: 1.12 pounds

Price: $119

URL: globalsecurityexperts.com

Above: Once in place, the OnGARD provides substantial reinforcement to your door.

Notes:
If you’re serious about beefing up the physical integrity of your exterior doors, this product deserves a hard look. Its simple, two-piece construction consists of a base plate with two elongated slots in it and a top plate with two matching extended tabs. To install it, position the base plate near the knob side of an inward opening door and, using the included drill bit, driver, and screws, anchor it securely to the floor. Then, with the door closed, simply insert the tabs of the top plate into the slots of the bottom plate and you’ve got a brutishly strong barrier. Injection molded from glass-fiber-reinforced polyphenylene sulfide, the OnGARD will withstand 3,100 pounds of force.

Above: The OnGARD is an extremely strong physical barrier that consists of a base plate that must be screwed to the floor and a top plate that fits into it.

Like wedges and other door reinforcements, the ultimate effectiveness of this device depends heavily on the structural integrity of the door itself. However, it offers a significant advantage. While wedges either require some space under the door or must be positioned slightly away from the door as a second layer of defense, the OnGARD butts flush up against the closed door. This not only makes it stronger, but is an advantage in cold climates and with doors that have weatherstripping at the bottom.

Master 265DCCSEN Security Bar

Above: The Master Security Bar is an inexpensive, adjustable, and extremely versatile security device.

Category: Physical Barrier

Dimensions: Adjusts from 27.5 inches (70cm) to 42.0 inches (1.1m)

Weight: 35 ounces

Price: $35

URL: masterlock.com

Above: Wedged under the doorknob of an inward-opening door, the Master Security Bar offers serious reinforcement and, unlike wedges, directs it to the middle of the door.

Notes:
Made from tough 20-gauge steel, this versatile product offers two different functions: a security bar for inward opening doors and a “Charley Bar” for sliding patio doors. With its U-shaped head attached, it wedges between the floor and the underside of the doorknob of a door to create an extremely strong barrier. Unlike door wedges or even the sturdy OnGARD device, which absorb all the force of an attempted breach at the bottom of the door, this device effectively reinforces the area of the door near the doorknob and lockset. This is also the area most likely to bear the brunt of an attempted kick-in, so its strength is better focused than floor-mounted devices. By pulling a single spring-loaded pin, the U-shaped head can be removed to transform it into a straight “Charley Bar.” Placed between a patio door and the doorframe, it makes sliding the door open impossible.

Above: By removing the Y-shaped head and adjusting its length, the Master Security Bar can also be used to secure sliding patio doors.

The base of the Master Security Bar has a pivoting ball joint that allows it to automatically lay flat and a non-slip rubber base that will not scratch floors. A push-button plunger and a series of holes allow it to be easily adjusted to the perfect size for practically any door in your house. Although this device still relies on the strength of the door it’s supporting, its design reinforces it in a more substantial way and does not require any space between the door bottom and the threshold. It is ideal for renters who can’t make changes to the structure of their home as well as homeowners who want to amp up the strength of their perimeter doors. It’s even light and compact enough for travel in checked baggage.

General Electric Door Stop Alarm

Above: The GE Door Stop alarm combines a door stop with a pressure-sensitive audible alarm.

Category: Overt Alarm/Physical Barrier

Dimensions: 5.90 by 1.89 by 1.77 inches

Weight: 3.4 ounces

Price: $14

URL: amazon.com

Above: While the GE Door Stop Alarm definitely works as an alarm, as a physical barrier it leaves a lot to be desired. On tile floors, a hard push of the door just moved it aside.

Notes:
The concept of this product is to combine the physical barrier function of a doorstop with a pressure-sensitive switch and an ear-piercing 120dB alarm. If a would-be burglar or home invader is able to overcome or bypass the lock(s), as the door opens, it depresses a switch plate on the top of the device to trigger the alarm. If the alarm itself isn’t enough to scare off the intruder, it gives you an early warning while the doorstop supposedly buys you some time to get your defense plan into action. While this sounds great in theory, the plastic construction of this unit is not as robust as a dedicated doorstop. Unlike a standard doorstop, it also cannot be wedged under a completely closed door without setting off the alarm and must be set back from the door. Although it has a rubber base that is supposed to add to its effectiveness as a barrier, when placed on a smooth floor, the opening door simply pushed it out of the way. Yes, the alarm went off, but the doorstop did little to keep the door from opening. As soon as the pressure on the device’s switch is removed, the alarm also goes off instantly. As a backup security measure in hotels, dorm rooms, and other dwellings where it’s possible someone else might have a key to the door, this device makes sense. In those environments, there are also more people around to hear the alarm. As a perimeter defense measure for a single-family home, however, it’s of very limited use.

General Electric 4 Window/Door Alarm

Above: GE’s stick-on alarms can be used to easily alarm almost any door or window, but your reaction time to the breach had better be quick.

Category: Overt Alarm

Dimensions: 2.37 by 1.62 by 0.63 inches

Weight: 1.3 ounces

Price: $21

URL: amazon.com

Above: A GE alarm installed on a basement window. Ideal for apartments and rental homes, it leaves no permanent marks when removed.

Notes:
These standalone alarms are designed to work on just about any door or window. They consist of two pieces: the body, which contains the alarm circuitry, speaker, and a reed switch, and a second piece that contains a small magnet. Both pieces mount quickly and easily with double-sided foam adhesive strips that are included with the alarm. To use, simply stick the foam tape to the back of the alarm pieces and attach the alarm and its companion magnet component side by side — one on the door or window itself and the other on the adjacent frame. The two pieces must be positioned so they are immediately beside each other when the door or window is closed. When the alarm is armed, the magnet component keeps the reed switch in the alarm body open. However, if the magnet is moved away from the alarm body by opening the door or window, the reed switch closes, completes the circuit, and triggers a 100-decibel alarm. Sold as a four pack, these inexpensive alarms can be quickly and easily installed in apartments and rental properties without any permanent effects to the structure. They are powered by four LR44 button batteries (included) and are impressively loud for their size. That’s good, since they are true stand-alone alarms and do not communicate with a central control panel. While they do give you an early warning if a door or window is breached and may be enough to scare off an intruder, if he’s thinking quickly, he can simply flip the switch and turn off the alarm once he’s inside. As such, this type of alarm must be paired with a sound and very determined quick-reaction plan.

Kitfox Outfitters Cyalume Surface Trip Flare

Above: The Cyalume Surface Trip Flare is a trip-wire-triggered device that breaks and activates a Chemlight as a visual signal of a perimeter breach.

Category: Overt Alarm

Dimensions: 7.00 by 3.6 by 0.77 inches

Weight: 10.6 ounces

Price: $25

URL: kitfoxoutfitters.com

Above: The Cyalume Trip Flare set and ready.

Notes:
This device is a non-pyrotechnic version of the old-school military trip flare. The classic versions, like the M49, consisted of a chemical flare that was initiated by a pull fuse. The flare would be anchored to a solid object along the perimeter and a trip wire strung from the fuse across a likely avenue of approach. When an intruder hit the trip wire, it triggered the flare which erupted into a spectacular flame for a few minutes and let everyone know there was someone “in the wire.” The Cyalume version works basically the same way, but rather than triggering a pyrotechnic, it features a spring-loaded striker arm that breaks and activates a high-intensity Chemlight light stick.

Above: Here's what the Cyalume Trip Flare looks like once it's activated.

While the Cyalume Trip Flare doesn’t pose the fire hazard of a pyrotechnic flare, it is also not nearly as bright, as obvious, or as easily seen from a distance. Very importantly, it’s only useful when you are actively scanning for a potential breach of your perimeter defenses, either visually or with the aid of security cameras. Also, since the flare’s trip line is of limited length, the intruder is very likely to see the Chemlight when it’s activated. Unlike a burning flare, which is difficult to snuff out, it’s not difficult to cover a Chemlight so it can’t be seen. One way to thwart that possibility would be to use an infrared Chemlight in conjunction with night-capable security cameras, but you’d still have to be looking at the cameras when the flare is tripped to get the benefit of an early warning. Although this device is well made, functions as intended, and actually has a military NSN, unless you and your family regularly walk patrols around your house at night or do guard shifts in front of your security camera monitor, it won’t do you much good.

Shomer Tec Infrared Perimeter Protector

Above: The Infrared Perimeter Protector is basically a hi-tech electronic trip flare that can only be seen by night vision devices.

Category: Covert Alarm

Dimensions: 5.0 by 1.9 inches

Weight: 10.6 ounces

Price: $79

URL: shomer-tec.com

Above: The Infrared trip flare set and ready to go. Note how the trip line runs through the eye screw and up to the device’s “pin.”

Notes:
The Infrared Perimeter Detector is an even more modern take on the classic military trip flare. It consists of a two-piece, plastic, weatherproof body that contains a small electronic circuit board and a 9-volt battery. A hole in the bottom of the body allows a 1/8-inch mini-plug — like the one at the end of your headphones — to be inserted into a receptacle on the circuit board. When the plug is removed, it triggers the device and activates an infrared strobe. To set the device, it is hung from a tree or other solid object and camouflaged with a plastic sleeve. An eye screw is inserted below it and the Kevlar trip line is threaded through the eye screw and up to the mini-plug trigger. The other end of the trip line is then strung across a likely avenue of approach. The Perimeter Protector’s 940nm signal is invisible to the naked eye but can be clearly seen with night vision scopes and low-light cameras. It is visible up to a mile away with Gen 3 night vision and produces a distinctive pulse rate that makes it easy to distinguish from other ambient light sources. Made in the USA, it comes complete with mounting hardware, an 85-foot spool of Kevlar tripline, a camouflaging sleeve, and a battery. Although it works exactly as advertised and is readily visible on the night-capable cameras of the average home security system, you still have to be looking at those cameras for the device to give you an edge as an early-warning alarm. For applications where there’s a living, breathing human staring at a security camera monitor or scanning the perimeter defenses with NVGs, this device makes sense. For civilian home security, it’s not very applicable.

FITH Ops Alarm Signaling Device

Above: The Alarm Signaling Device is a trip-wire-activated audible alarm that fires a shotgun primer.

Category: Overt Alarm

Dimensions: 3.8 by 0.54 inches

Weight: 1.3 ounces

Price: $25

URL: shomer-tec.com

Above: The Alarm Signaling Device in place and ready to do its job.

Notes:
The Alarm Signaling Device is basically an audio version of a trip flare. It consists of an aluminum body with a threaded “muzzle brake” plug, a spring-loaded striker, and a grenade-style pull pin. The threaded plug unscrews to accept a standard 209 shot shell primer and serves as an “anvil” to fire it. To set the device, cock the striker and insert the trigger pin and the back-up safety pin in their respective holes in the striker shaft and the body. Mount the device to a tree, fencepost, or similar solid object in a vertical position with the striker pointing up. Attach a trip line to the trigger pin and string it across a likely avenue of approach. Unscrew the end of the body, insert a 209 primer, and screw the end back into place. Finally, remove the safety pin to arm the device. When the trip line is pulled, the trigger pin slides out of the striker shaft and the spring drives it home to fire the primer. Nicely machined from high-quality aluminum and steel and sporting a non-reflective coating, the Alarm Signaling Device is a well-made piece of kit that is manufactured in the USA. Unlike visual trip-wire devices, the gunshot-like “crack” it produces is much more likely to get your attention and provide a true early-warning signal. It also sends a strong message to an intruder that he’s lost the element of surprise and that someone — potentially someone well-armed — is waiting for him. As such, it offers a significant deterrent effect as well. Versatile and reusable, this device cannot only be strung across paths and entry zones but can also be attached to remote gates and doors. The Alarm Signaling Device includes the device itself, an eye screw for mounting it, trigger and safety pins, and an instruction card. The primers and trip line must be purchased separately. Easy to install, this device can be used very creatively and provides both a true early-warning signal and the deterrence of an automated “warning shot.”

First Look: HRT Tactical LBAC Plate Carrier

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This week, HRT Tactical announced the launch of a new plate carrier that they’re calling the LBAC – Load Bearing Adaptive Carrier. We’ve spent the last couple of weeks with it and expect to a have full in-depth review for you later this year but, in the meantime, we wanted to share our initial impressions and review the LBAC’s feature suite. Aptly named, the LBAC is indeed both load bearing and adaptive, with some pretty unique design features in both areas.

Photos by Patrick McCarthy

HRT Tactical Load Bearing System

The vast majority of plate carriers on the market are of straightforward design: front and rear plate bags with shoulder straps, typically hard-sewn or Velcroed together, and a cummerbund of some type. Newer, more scalable carriers typically use Velcro for the arms of the cummerbund as well. This allows them to be adjusted and interchanged however the user prefers. The LBAC has all of these features, but goes a step further by using a sort of internal chassis design for the core of the carrier itself.

This chassis features two pieces that function as both back pads and shoulder straps – one left piece and one right piece. They consist of thick, spongy mesh padding reinforced with what feels like thin polymer sewn inside. These two pieces are laced together with shock cord to form a load-bearing core with a sort of “independent rear suspension” system that allows the two halves to articulate individually as your body twists and turns. (It also allows increased airflow down the middle of your back.) The front and rear plate bags are attached to this chassis, then secured around the waist with a rigid cummerbund. The rigid skeleton tucks into the front plate bag and comes with MOLLE-webbed sleeves that also feature quick-release buckles.

While the chassis system helps cushion and flex the load on your shoulders, this stiffened cummerbund disperses a portion of that load onto your hips. Where a cloth cummerbund simply wraps around your abdomen, this one actually rides on your mid-section and had enough rigidity to help hold up the loaded carrier.

Over the last couple of years, we have watched as the trend of ultra-minimalist, ultra-low-profile plate carrier setups has begun to reverse towards heavier loadouts with more ammunition, more onboard storage, and especially the integration of communications equipment. For folks who want to pack more fight for the fight, the internal load-bearing features of the LBAC make it a very attractive choice.

Adaptability & Modularity

You may already recognize some of the HRT Tactical front panels in these photos from previous articles, where they have been attached to a variety of other plate carriers. Their panel designs use standard one-inch side release buckles, with a hook-side Velcro back. This setup allows you to swap the front panels for different mission sets with a couple of clicks and tugs. Our test sample came with their 3-mag 5.56mm placard, a dedicated shotgun panel that’s chock full of elastic loops for shells, and their Maximus placard (pictured below).

The Maximus is one of our favorite products that HRT makes. It features a kangaroo pocket that can be fitted with a variety of elastic mag retainer inserts – you can configure it for two large 7.62mm magazines, three smaller 5.56mm magazines, or five 9mm PCC/subgun/PDW mags. The Maximus also features two square front pockets with internal elastic loops that are ideal for medical supplies, signaling or survival equipment, batteries for electronics, or even just a couple of meal replacement bars. Each end of the Maximus has a double-stack pistol mag pouch with removable top flap and removable polymer insert that offers additional retention, with or without the top flap.

Similarly, the rear plate bag features HRT’s dual-zip system, which uses two pairs of short zipper sections to attach a variety of back panels.

There are half- and full-panel options, and our sample carrier came with both. Full panel options include an all-MOLLE panel, as well as a small “turtle shell” backpack-style panel that offers general-purpose storage for water bladders and other supplies. Half-panel options can be plugged in to create a rear load tailored to your needs. This is especially useful for tactical teams running the LBAC as a unit-issued carrier. Half-zip panels include options for dual GP pouches, a single zippered admin pouch, and triple-mag shingle with additional admin storage. Though not included in our T&E package, HRT’s website also has half-panel variations with pull-out med kits or quad flashbang grenade pouches.

Above: A few examples of zip-on half-panels that can be mixed and matched on the rear of the LBAC plate carrier.

Closing Thoughts

The HRT Tactical LBAC is available now, starting at $430 for a complete carrier with 10 x 12 plate bags, in most of the staple colors and camo patterns. If you run an XL carrier with 11 x 14 plates, it appears that an option for you is in the works as well. While it’s not the least expensive carrier we’ve seen lately, the amount of scalability and load-bearing optimization built into this system makes it truly an investment in a multipurpose ecosystem that could make the LBAC your “one carrier” for years to come. Stay tuned for more in-depth field testing, coming soon.

 

New: Helle Nord Bushcraft Knife

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Modern-day knife designs have become increasingly elaborate, but if we look back at the traditional knives of our ancestors, they were actually quite simple. The Sami, an indigenous people from northern Norway, Sweden, and Finland, rely on knives for processing wood and meat in their bitterly cold environment. Sami knives are typically made in two sizes — the smaller blade is commonly known as a puukko, designed for delicate tasks such as skinning and shaving tinder; the larger blade is often called a leuku, and it serves to chop through hard wood and reindeer bone. Norwegian knifemaker Helle Knives has released a new fixed blade inspired by the latter tool, known as the Helle Nord.

The Helle Nord features a 5.7-inch drop point blade with sturdy full-tang construction and the classic Scandi grind popularized by knives from this region. It's constructed from field-serviceable and corrosion-resistant Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel, and clad with European curly birch handle scales (another reference to the traditional Sami design). The spine of the blade is ground to a 90-degree edge to allow easy striking of a ferro rod.

One place the Nord differs from tradition is its contoured handle shape. Helle says this is intended to give a secure grip close to the blade for precise cuts, and to reduce the risk of slippage during heavy chopping tasks.

Anders Haglund, co-developer of the Nord, explained that he prefers not to apply any modern terms to the knife design. “We didn't want to label the Nord with terms like survival or bushcraft. In the wilderness, these words are meaningless; the only way to build useful knives that are comfortable in the hand is to use them in the field.” While this sentiment is understandable, it's clear that this knife falls into a category most of us would refer to as a camp knife or bushcraft knife — especially given its Scandi grind, a favorite characteristic of modern bushcraft progenitor Mors Kochanski.

Every Nord will be manufactured at the historic Helle factory in Holmedal, Norway, where the company has been making blades for over 90 years. MSRP is $249, and includes a traditional leather belt sheath. The Helle Nord is expected to hit stores in July 2022. For more information, visit Helle.com.

Hollywood Survival: The Best and Worst Survival Movies

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When Hollywood isn’t recycling and “reimagining” movies from yesteryear with unlikely cast lead actors/actresses like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson as everyone, they occasionally get something right in the survival genre. Hollywood films have incredible reach, and one blockbuster has the potential to create a whole generation of new outdoorsmen from its viewers. But for all the good influence survival movies can have on inspiring the audience, there’s also plenty of bad as the collective efforts of writers, directors, and technical advisors frequently fail to hit their mark with respect to accuracy, safety, or plausibility. We’ve taken six Hollywood survival movies and broken them down for their solid survival practices as well as the scenes that make us cringe.

Survival Movies that Got it Right

The Edge (1997)

“What one man can do, another man can do!” That line has resonated with us ever since we watched Anthony Hopkins (millionaire Charles Morse) and Alec Baldwin (photographer Robert “Bob” Green) trek through the Alaskan Wilderness after their bush plane crashed in this badass movie. We have to watch it all the way through even if it comes on at 1 a.m. when we’re flipping through the channels. The Edge does it right, well mostly right, and we were terrified when the dark ominous music played as Bart the Bear showed up to eat the photography assistant character and let the audience know the two stars would be fighting off a “man killer” as Charles put it.

In the movie, Charles is a brilliant wealthy man whose knowledge is mostly theoretical. Prior to his ordeal in the wilderness, he is gifted a pocket watch, a survival manual, and folding knife by his supermodel wife played by actual supermodel Elle MacPherson. Everyone’s favorite pro-2A actor, Alec Baldwin, plays the photographer with a vision to capture the right look of the photo shoot by traveling deeper into the wilderness. As they’re traveling in the DeHavilland Beaver plane, it strikes a flock of birds and crashes into a lake. This is where the survival theme really takes over and the movie got it right.

The protagonists in the movie struggle to make a fire until Bob uses a flare to jump start their effort. They suffer from circling around and finding their campfire, which only adds to their despair. Charles uses a link from his pocket watch to attract a trout and he builds a bird cage trap to capture a squirrel. The movie places importance on the knife as a tool to create “a f*#king spear,” to emergency egress from the sinking plane, and chop evergreen boughs later in the film. We’ve never killed a bear the way the characters did in the movie, but it was by far one of the most plausible ways we could imagine.

This movie gets it mostly right. We can’t forgive the fact the only place Charles could think of to draw blood to “lure” the bear was from his finger pad. We need our hands for utility, and there are other spots on the body to get blood from that make a better sacrifice. From start to finish, this movie spotlights good practices. The characters locate a cabin, secure a rifle, apply a tourniquet to a traumatic wound, escape the area in a canoe, and signal for help by making a smoke generator with greens over a shoreline fire. To top it all off, the ending is incredible and you’re left knowing Charles will survive after calling out his wife with a badass mic-drop moment.

The Way Back (2010)

When you were in high school, you probably learned that in the Soviet Era of Russia, political prisoners were sent to the Gulag. Located in the harsh Siberian wilderness, the environment was used as a deterrent and working was considered the only way to stay warm and stay alive. In The Way Back, a handful of prisoners decided to escape the wilderness and walk to freedom. The only problem, and one that plays out over and over in the film, is the physical distance the characters have to cover to escape the grasp of the communists. Just when you think the ragtag crew of escapees get a break, they have to find the strength to keep going. All told, the walk from captivity to freedom covers 4,000 miles or roughly the distance from New York to Los Angeles to Seattle with plenty of miles to spare.

This movie captures the reality of survival in multiple climates. Immediately as the prisoners escape, they fashion winter goggles out of birch bark to deal with whiteout conditions. They later walk along Lake Baikal, which is known for its thick flies, and they’re plagued by them until they notice locals using an apparent repellent necklace made from the local vegetation. As they travel further east, they encounter desert conditions and the relentless heat of the sun. The characters find food where they can and celebrate it as the blessing it always feels like when you’re stuck in the wilderness without it. Another aspect the filmmakers got right was the importance of morale; the characters go through phases of elation, despair, and boredom in different scenes.

Something that captured our imagination was the concept of adding another member to a survival group. In a very real discussion, the characters must decide if they want to support a young girl who follows them or leave her behind. In a real-life scenario, a two-day food supply for one becomes a one-day supply for two. The moral dilemma is very real in Hollywood as well as in emergency scenarios where one neighbor must decide to welcome in the family of another neighbor.

Perhaps the best aspect of the movie in terms of survival realism is the ever-present concept of motivation. This glimpse into positive mental attitude and survival psychology is the section most people skip over in survival manuals, but it’s also the most interesting part of this movie as the actors’ expressions convey the grueling task of putting one foot in front of the other. This movie doesn’t win awards for cool gear, but it definitely is on our watch list for realism.

The Martian (2015)

When astronaut Mark Watney (Matt Damon) is presumed and left for dead, he must fend for himself on the planet Mars in The Martian. This movie hits the survival nerve in a different way for us. You see, in most movies, the challenge is dealing with the wilderness of this planet. This one is out of this world, quite literally, and while we haven’t yet stepped foot on the red planet, we can appreciate the survival concepts that transcend the galaxy in this movie.

From the moment the rest of his crew escapes Mars, Watney needs to deal with a ruptured space suit, and more importantly, a punctured body. He returns to the base station and administers self-aid. We appreciate that the filmmakers didn’t give his character the superhuman ability to ignore pain and carry on. Survival priorities are always in flux and sometimes you need to address your first-aid and trauma needs before working toward putting food on the table.

Speaking of which, we like how the stranded astronaut took store of his supplies and quite logically determined how he needed to extend his food rations. We aren’t sure if using rehydrated human feces and Martian dirt in a makeshift greenhouse would yield potatoes, but it’s OK to suspend disbelief for a while. Later in the film, Watney is shown shirtless and physically weakened from a calorie-restricted diet. Other actors like Christian Bale are known for physical transformations but in this movie, the shock of comparing the shirtless actor at the end of the film to earlier when he sutured himself sold the idea he was truly surviving.

Hunger aside, The Martian does a great job of showing how a person can be resourceful with limited resources. Even thousands of miles away, at one point, good ol’ duct tape (or some astronaut equivalent) comes into play to seal his helmet. When a fire was needed, he shaved wood from a crucifix left behind from one of his colleagues. When a signal was needed, he recalled where a camera was and used hexadecimals to communicate with Earth. Watney embodied the spirit of improv.

Much like the psychological lesson of pressing on in The Way Back, another lesson of the mind is apparent in The Martian. Watney records a daily journal of his efforts for prosperity. Sometimes, journaling and speaking out loud help take ideas and put them somewhere physical. It’s easy to think about your problems. Writing out a plan that leads to an attainable goal is better than thoughts alone. Another aspect of this film we appreciate is the ending. Spoiler alert: When Watney gets back to earth he decides to educate the next generation in a college classroom. That hits me right in the survival instructor feels.

Survival Movies that Missed the Mark

Survival Island (2005)

Perhaps the least-known movie in this collection, Survival Island stars Billy Zane (Jack) and Kelly Brook (Jennifer) in a tale of desert survival, a wicked love triangle with a deckhand named Manuel played by Juan Pablo Di Pace, and no shortage of questionable survival actions. The plot is simple. An extremely wealthy couple takes a cruise, but the ship catches fire and forces the occupants into the ocean before the three previously mentioned characters wash up on an island. At first, only Manuel and Jennifer locate one another but a couple days later, Jack shows up unconscious. When he wakes, the deception, allegations, and violence begin.

As the predictable tension creates a ridiculous story line, there are pearls of decent survival skills shown. At one point, a sunken dinghy is pulled ashore and fixed by Jack only to be stolen by Jennifer and Manuel later. At another point in the film, goggles are used for spear fishing, and when they prove to be useful by one of the parties, a bottle is turned into a diving mask for spearfishing by another party. True to the idea of scarcity, when resources are in short supply, demand will be high. When Jennifer realizes her husband can’t provide food as easily as Manuel can, her wedded allegiance starts to fade. She moves from one terribly built survival shelter to another and plays the little spoon with another guy right in front of her husband.

If we look at this movie as a commentary on human nature, it makes us wonder if three strangers would collaborate to survive or live in conflict like the script called for. Let’s face it, guys have made very stupid decisions over women and vice versa for centuries. The concept of infidelity isn’t new but what makes this movie really awkward is the idea that it plays out on a sandy open stretch of beach for the cheated-on to witness himself. Maybe the movie wasn’t inaccurate to show the homicidal rage later in the film. What makes us scratch our head is the time line. So much happens in such a short window of time.

At the risk of sounding doggish, we take issue with the insatiable libido of the characters on the island despite the hunger, stress, and general discomfort of not showering, living in the sand, and being without simple toilet paper. Even though Jennifer is played by a British supermodel, we wonder if anyone could take their mind off the very likelihood of starvation on an island to muster up some blood flow to the brain that isn’t thinking of life and death. Maybe Jennifer’s bikini (which by the way remains perfectly stark white) serves as a smoke screen to the doubtful sex drive these characters demonstrate.

I Am Legend (2007)

When the trailer to this movie came out, we were excited at the reboot of The Last Man on Earth with Vincent Price and The Omega Man with Charlton Heston. We liked the poacher’s dream of hunting down deer in the middle of Manhattan with a cherry red Mustang and an AR-15. This movie, starring Will Smith as Army Medical Doctor Robert Neville, follows the story of the lone survivor of a global killer as he methodically tests vaccines for the ailment that has turned the rest of the population into superhuman track stars. This movie had so much potential with some pretty good prepper habits. Dr. Neville does regular PT, he searches apartments for supplies, he has weapons staged throughout his home, he rotates food and grows crops in open spaces. This movie had the right survival recipe, but a few bad ingredients made us scratch our heads.

Each night, Dr. Neville poured bleach to cover his scent on his front doorsteps. He set his watch to track the remaining sunlight of the day. He took care of the basic survival need of protection. But, did he do enough? We don’t think so. In the world the movie was set in, he could’ve easily relocated to a more secure facility each night. Imagine laying claim to a bank vault, a police station or prison, or even a boat he could anchor offshore each night. Sure, he’d have to rummage through dead mens’ pockets for keys, but he could have had any vehicle he wanted to drive around in. If we were in that scenario, we’d have our own personal tank, MRAP, or even an armored truck. No disrespect to his choice of bug-out vehicle, a Ford Expedition, but there are better trucks out there. Remember, this character is supposed to be a doctor with incredible luck to be the only one immune and supposed above-average intelligence. Come on, doc, make better choices.

Spoiler alert: Skip to the next movie if you don’t want the ending revealed here. Perhaps what chaps our ass most is the way this movie ends. Throughout the movie he does what he can to maintain his sanity. He stages mannequins like “Wilsons,” but this is used against him when the dark seekers move one. He gets trapped, his dog is bitten, and he’s forced to kill it and then he seems to simply give up. After discovering he isn’t alone, he takes in a woman and a child. His house is overrun and after giving the safe room space away to his new friends he performs seppuku by hand grenade. We actually prefer the alternate ending you can find online to this self-destructing display of weakness. Come on, doc!

The Revenant (2015)

Revenge, wilderness survival, the kid from We’re the Millers with the nut sack spider bite playing Jim Bridger, what more could you ask for in a movie? Well, in the case of the “cinematic masterpiece” as it has been called, more historical accuracy was needed. Don’t take this the wrong way, the movie was entertaining, but it shouldn’t be used the night before a test on long hunters if you planned on watching a documentary instead of reading a book. This movie follows the story of Hugh Glass (Leonardo DiCaprio), an actual famous American frontiersman. He was mauled by a bear and left for dead by John Fitzgerald (Tom Hardy). Glass recovers from his injuries and seeks out the man who left him for dead. Sounds pretty awesome right? Hold your horses.

Despite the way the movie seems to convey the cold of the environment, that cold doesn’t seem to affect Glass as he evades Native Americans by swimming in an icy river. No apparent shock from icy immersion, just your average day. In fact, Glass finds warmth at one point in the movie after riding a horse off a cliff, through a tree à la John Rambo, and slicing open his trusty steed and jumping inside it like Luke did inside the tauntaun on the planet Hoth. If you’re following this ridiculousness after two movie references, you’ll probably be surprised to find out much of the exploits of the actual Glass happened in late summer.

One of the chuckle moments in this film is Glass starts a fire with traditional flint and steel that seemed to erupt into a roaring fire by skipping the stages of fire progression. Perhaps it was helped along with some flammable liquid by some technical advisor, but that isn’t how it happens in real life. We know char cloth is very prone to failure with any moisture and this miracle of fire isn’t how it would’ve played out without a little Hollywood magic.

Many of the readers of this magazine are firearm enthusiasts and The Revenant features plenty of muzzle-loading action to whet your appetite. That said, it’s amazing to us how characters in movies set in the early 19th century display marksmanship skills that the greatest shooting instructors of the present day would kill for. Even though American marksmanship and firearms technology was used with incredible guerilla tactics to defeat the British less than a century before this event took place, we want to throw a penalty flag for an almost impossible shot every time we see one, and this movie has plenty.

Conclusion

Hollywood films should be viewed more for entertainment than educational value. They offer an escape from the real world by providing 90-plus minutes of make-believe with actors pretending to be in harm’s way. We have the ability to rewind, pause, and stop this world we immerse ourselves in with the click of the remote. Let them inspire you but remember, it’s just a movie. The problem with trusting any film for survival education is getting too involved in the story line, the back plot, or the drama and believing your reality will play out like it did for the hero. Keep in mind, if a shot doesn’t work out in the film industry, the director can yell “cut” and try again. If something doesn’t work out for you in the wilderness, you won’t be as fortunate with the ability to do a retake.

About the Author

Kevin Estela is the Director of Training for Fieldcraft Survival, with over two decades of outdoor skill teaching experience. His dynamic work environment involves new survival skill education projects and tasks on a regular basis. One day, he might be scouting land for upcoming courses, the next flying to another state to teach a defensive handgun class, and the next filming content in the mountains for a 72-hour Ziploc bag survival challenge.

Tailor-Made ARs: 13.9″ Pin and Weld Build

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Editor's Note: This article is the continuation of Part 3 in our “Tailor-Made ARs” series. If you haven't already, we strongly recommend you go here to read the first half of this article — it sets the foundation and explains the logic behind the 13.9-inch pin and weld rifle seen here. Otherwise, read on as we explain the details of this build.

13.9-inch Pin and Weld Rifle

Photo by Tom Marshall

For my second rifle, I decided to achieve the legally required barrel length so I didn’t have to register it as an SBR, therefore avoiding the $200 tax stamp and interstate travel restrictions associated with SBRs. Rather than buying a 16-inch barrel and ending up with more length and weight than I wanted, I started with a Criterion CORE Series 13.9-inch barrel. This barrel came with some optional add-ons: a headspaced Bravo Company MFG (BCM) bolt carrier group, a Badger Ordnance gas block, and a gas tube. My local gunsmith — Wright Armory in Mesa, Arizona — permanently attached a SureFire Warcomp muzzle device to the barrel, extending it to meet the 16-inch minimum. This is usually referred to as a “pin and weld” setup, because that’s exactly how it’s affixed.

The barrel is installed in an American Defense Manufacturing ADM4 billet aluminum receiver set. Like the receiver I used for my 11.5 build, the ADM4 has an enlarged, ambidextrous bolt catch and release, but it also adds an ambidextrous magazine release and a forward assist. Although it has extra controls that differ from Mil-spec, the standard controls won’t feel unfamiliar to anyone who has run an AR before.

Above: The ADM4 receiver’s large bolt release paddle is impossible to miss, and it’s paired with a lever on the opposite side of the receiver that offers the same functions to the shooter’s index finger. The mag release is also ambidextrous.

A Midwest Industries Night Fighter 13.5-inch handguard is designed to reduce handguard flex, which will be useful if I add an IR laser for night vision use in the future. That rigidity is also useful for stabilizing the weight of the rifle via a bipod; I attached a Harris bipod to the handguard using a Midwest Industries M-LOK bipod adapter. Although the SureFire Warcomp can serve as an attachment point for a suppressor, there’s not enough clearance between it and the end of the handguard; if I decide to add a suppressor to this build someday, I can install a shorter Midwest Industries handguard for more clearance.

The lower receiver was completed with one last part from Midwest Industries, an Enhanced flat-face drop-in trigger. It provides a clean 3.5-pound break and well-defined reset that are suitable for precision shooting, but it’s also capable of quick shots at closer range. Like the 11.5, this build also features a Radian Talon 45-degree safety selector and a Radian Raptor charging handle.

Lights

Above: The first of two light setups I tested is based around a SureFire Scout Pro with dual-switch tail cap and remote switch. The wires are routed neatly thanks to anodized aluminum WireGuides from Arson Machine.

I experimented with two light setups on this build. The first is a SureFire Dual Fuel Scout Light Pro, which provides 1,500 lumens with a rechargeable 18650 lithium battery. It also accepts two common CR123A batteries with a reduced output of 1,200 lumens. This dual-fuel capability is a nice option for long-term emergency scenarios, since I can either recharge the main battery or swap to some spares that I already carry for other tools. The Pro body adds a swivel mount that nestles the light as close as possible to the handguard. It's set up with a DS-SR07 dual-switch tail cap and remote switch. The wires for the switch are kept neat and tidy using M-LOK WireGuides from Arson Machine.

The second light I tried is a Cloud Defensive OWL, which produces 1,200 lumens and 50,000 candela from a rechargeable 18650 battery. This all-in-one unit is built like a tank and has impressive long-range throw that fits the precision-oriented build of this rifle. It’s a bit “chunky,” but I appreciate its durability and simple integrated pressure switch design. If I’m going to a daytime class or match, I can pop the light and the bipod off in seconds to lighten the rifle. Neither requires extra tools — the OWL’s tail cap has a built-in socket wrench to loosen its rail clamp bolt.

Above: The Cloud Defensive OWL is a little “big-boned,” but it’s also nearly indestructible (a valuable trait for a survival rifle) and produces a high-candela beam that’s well-suited to long shots in low-light conditions.

Optics

As with lights, I tried two different setups, each involving a low-power variable optic (LPVO) and an offset red-dot sight. The first is a Leupold Mark 8 CQBSS 1-8×24; it offers first-focal-plane magnification and four different illuminated reticles to choose from. I picked the M-TMR model, which features 0.5-MIL hash marks and a small selection of ranging brackets to help determine distance to a target. This optic is installed in a Badger Ordnance Condition One 1.54-inch-height modular mount with a Badger Ordnance 45-degree J-Arm and Delta Point Pro adapter plate. That plate holds (you guessed it) a Leupold DeltaPoint Pro NV sight. The absolute-cowitness height of this optic setup is great for establishing a solid cheek weld while shooting from prone, and I like the DP Pro’s large window for quick target ID at close range.

Above: In this photo, you can see the Leupold Mark 8 and DeltaPoint Pro red dot mounted in a Condition One modular mount. The Harris bipod has also been removed from the Midwest Industries M-LOK bipod adapter to reduce front-end weight.

This setup paired best with the SureFire light, since the larger-diameter body of the Cloud Defensive OWL intruded into the window of the DP Pro red dot.

The second optic setup I tried is based around a Vortex Razor HD Gen III 1-10×24 scope. This optic is also a first-focal-plane design, and features the excellent EBR-9 reticle, which includes a bright illuminated dot and ring as well as MIL subtension markings. Some shooters might find the detailed “Christmas tree” reticle a little distracting at higher magnification settings; I like that it enables quick and precise holds for windage and elevation, so I can spend less time dialing the optic and more time shooting. I mounted this scope in a Scalarworks LEAP/09 1.93-inch-height mount and added the new Scalarworks KICK/02 offset red dot mount with a Trijicon RMR. As I mentioned previously, the taller optic mount has some trade-offs, but I found it to be more comfortable for my face shape and cheek weld position while standing.

Above: Here’s a comparison between the two offset red-dot setups. The RMR on the Scalarworks KICK mount (left) is positioned at a 35-degree angle for quick acquisition and snag reduction. The DeltaPoint Pro sits at a typical 45-degree angle in the Badger Ordnance mount (right), which helps it clear the Mark 8’s locking windage turret.

The KICK mount aligns the RMR at a shallower 35-degree angle and doesn’t protrude as far from the LPVO; this has pros and cons. On one hand, it’s exceptionally fast to pivot from aiming through the LPVO to the RMR, and it reduces the risk of bashing or snagging your optic on obstacles. On the other hand, the windage turret obscures a segment of the RMR’s window by design, and optics with longer turrets (e.g. the Mark 8) can cover the dot completely. Thankfully, after testing our build, we found that it’s easy enough to visually “tune out” the turret intrusion for this particular setup.

Both configurations give me redundancy — an etched reticle for primary use, and a red dot to serve as a backup sight. I typically leave the LPVO set to 4x magnification at a minimum, since I can transition to the red dot for close-range targets. However, if the red dot fails for any reason, I know I can still crank my LPVO back to 1x and click on the illumination.

Furniture

Above: I found that the wider design of the BCM SOPMOD stock helps me keep my head more stable while shooting — a must for this LPVO setup. The VBOST tab provides retention for a rubber band to keep my sling stowed neatly against the stock. 

The last bits and pieces for this build came from Bravo Company USA (BCM). There’s a Gunfighter Grip Mod 3 pistol grip, SOPMOD Stock Mod 0, Vertical Grip Mod 3, and a set of MCMR Rail Covers. I trimmed one of the covers with a Dremel, so it perfectly fills the space between the bipod mount and the vertical grip; this gives me nonslip texture all the way around the surface of the handguard. The SOPMOD stock is a bit wider than that on my 11.5 build, since cheek weld stability is far more important for a precision-oriented rifle. Finally, a BCM endplate and castle nut were used to attach a VLTOR A5 buffer system. Like my other rifle, I attached a QD sling mount to sockets on the rear of the handguard and the end plate, but this time I went with a Blue Force Gear Vickers padded sling. A rubber band secures it to the stock when it’s not in use; the BCM stock has a Vehicle Borne Operations Sling Tab (VBOST) feature that’s designed for this exact purpose.

Closing Thoughts

Talk to anyone who works with tools for a living — mechanics, plumbers, electricians, and so on — and you’ll learn some valuable lessons about quality equipment. The best tools are scratched and scuffed, well-worn, and well-loved. They’re not stowed in velvet display cases and handled with white gloves. They’re often dirty and greasy because they’re used day-in and day-out, and this constant use is a testament to their reliability. When they’re needed, they either get the job done, or they’re unceremoniously replaced.

Similarly, my rifles don’t just sit around collecting dust until an emergency arises. They’re not stashed in a wall-mounted case with a label that says, “break glass if SHTF.” Both are built from high-quality components that weren’t cheap, and while I certainly won’t deliberately abuse or damage them, I’m not going to pamper them either. Under normal circumstances, the 11.5 sits at my bedside for home-defense purposes, and the 13.9 makes an excellent game-getter. Both have been used in recreational shooting competitions on weekends, and both are frequently taken out to classes where I run them through a variety of drills. I cycle through new types of ammo in each constantly to watch for malfunctions and shot group deviation. So, although they’re survival rifles and can be employed as such, they’re also my daily drivers. If the day ever comes where I have to use either in a life-and-death situation, that’s how I know they’ll be ready.

If I had to do it all with one rifle, I’d probably split the differences between these builds, running a short-barrel configuration with a red dot sight and removable magnifier similar to Tom Marshall’s mini-recce build in Part I of this series. But my other emergency preparedness tools all have backups and overlap, so my rifle setup philosophy sticks to the same pattern — two is one.

Tailor-Made ARs: 11.5″ Suppressed SBR Build

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When it comes to survival tools, there’s an old saying that “two is one and one is none.” The intent of this saying is to reinforce the importance of redundancy — if item A breaks or is lost, you still have item B. However, this logic also applies to diversifying the capabilities of your gear. To illustrate the point, let’s look at one of the most critical tools of all: a knife. You’ve probably already incorporated two knives into your survival kit, but it’s unlikely that they’re two identical knives. One may be a midsized fixed blade, highly durable and capable of heavy-duty chopping. Perhaps it’s a machete or an ax. The other is likely a smaller blade with a more precise edge that’s ideal for shaving tinder or skinning game; it could be a folding knife or a small fixed blade worn on a neck lanyard. Although there’s substantial overlap between the capabilities of these two tools, there are also tasks that each excels at. In addition to providing redundancy, they complement each other.

By this point, you should realize the same philosophy applies to other survival tools, including firearms. So, when the subject of building an ideal survival rifle came up, it led me to the realization that it’s possible the ideal tool isn’t one rifle. I’d argue that it’s two.

Photo by Tom Marshall

Editor’s Note: Welcome to the third and final part of our Tailor-Made ARs series, a conceptual approach to building task-focused, performance-driven rifles for emergency preparedness. Several RECOIL OFFGRID writers will each take a unique path to designing an idealized AR for survival and crisis response. We’ll examine how each weapon is tailored to the user, and how it can be creatively adapted to a multitude of dicey situations. We hope these builds reinforce the importance of choosing every component wisely with versatility in mind.

Interchangeable Uppers vs. Complete Rifles

In the beginning, I decided to start with my tried-and-true 11.5-inch short-barreled rifle (SBR) and simply build a second upper receiver for it. After giving this some thought, I wrote down the following pros and cons related to this one-and-a-half-rifle plan.

Pros:

  • It’s much less expensive than building two complete guns.
  • A spare upper is lighter and easier to carry than a second rifle.
  • Since I’m starting with a registered SBR, I can run sub-16-inch barrels, a stock, and a vertical foregrip.

Cons:

  • No true redundancy. If something goes wrong with my only lower receiver, both uppers are rendered useless. Also, in a group survival setting, I wouldn’t have a second functional rifle to hand to a friend or family member.
  • Less specialization. With only one lower, I’ll need to pick a configuration that’s suitable for both uppers. This means I won’t be able to fine-tune the buffer system, trigger, grip style, and stock shape for each setup.
  • Inconvenience. A separate upper is harder to keep clean and lubricated, since the underside of the bolt carrier is exposed to dust and lint. It also takes a few seconds to retrieve an upper, pop the pins, and switch receivers. In time-sensitive situations, that may be a problem.
  • Compatibility. If you’re running Mil-spec receivers, you shouldn’t have this concern unless one is out of spec. But, in my case, my SBR was built with a matched billet receiver set from Ascend Armory. When I attempted to install an Aero Precision M4E1 stripped upper, I noticed it was impossible to install it due to the lower’s large ambidextrous bolt catch. Some will see this as a reason to only run Mil-spec parts, but there are two sides to that argument, as I’ll explain later.
  • It’s a registered SBR, so I have to file an ATF 5320.20 Application to Transport NFA Firearms form any time I travel with it outside my home state.

As a result of these considerations, the plan to use one lower and two uppers was scrapped, and I decided to build two complete AR-15s.

Similarities and Differences

At this point, I had to decide how much overlap I wanted between the two weapons. On one side of the spectrum, I could have gone for maximum differentiation — for example, a precision bolt-action rifle and a personal defense weapon (e.g. short AR pistol or MP5K). This would allow both to be carried by one person comfortably but would also almost eliminate the overlap and redundancy in capabilities, as I mentioned earlier. Instead, I chose to build two rifles that share many characteristics but aren’t identical.

As far as similarities, both are AR-15s chambered in .223/5.56 NATO. This means I can share ammo, magazines, and critical moving parts (e.g. bolt carrier groups) between the two. I have a stockpile of .223/5.56 ammo already, and I know many of my friends and neighbors have their own supplies to share in the event that we need to pool resources. The manual of arms is virtually identical for both rifles, so anyone who has used an AR before should know how to operate them, maintain them, and clear malfunctions in the field. In a “take this and watch my back” group survival situation, that’s immensely valuable.

Differences are relatively limited and will be discussed in greater detail during the individual build sections. The CliffsNotes version is that the 11.5-inch rifle is optimized for close-quarters and night vision use, while the 13.9-inch rifle is optimized for medium-range precision and reconnaissance.

Read on as we look at the specs and components of each build.

11.5-inch Suppressed SBR

Above: This Scalarworks 1.57 mount is lightweight, tall enough to clear my infrared laser, and can be installed and removed without tools. It fits a variety of optics that use the Aimpoint Micro footprint.

The earliest version of this suppressed SBR build was featured two years ago in Issue 48 of our sister publication RECOIL. Back then, it featured a few different parts and accessories, but the core components have remained mostly unchanged. It’s based on an Ascend Armory lightweight billet receiver set; it features ambidextrous bolt catch/release levers that are easy to find in the dark, a flared magwell to facilitate smooth reloads, and an enlarged trigger guard that won’t interfere with gloved hands. I filed an ATF Form 1 to designate this as an SBR before adding an 11.5-inch standard-gas-port carbine barrel, 10.5-inch M-LOK handguard, and easy-to-clean NP3-coated bolt carrier group, all from SIONICS Weapon Systems.

Since this weapon is intended for use in low light and enclosed spaces, the substantial flash and concussion from its short barrel had to be tamed. I addressed this with a Gemtech Quickmount flash hider and Shield titanium quick-detach suppressor. Gemtech says this suppressor has passed the U.S. military’s SOCOM standards, which involve more than 1,400 rounds fired in semi-auto and full-auto over a short period of time, so I have no concerns about its durability. The quick-detach system also means I can remove it in seconds to fit the rifle into a smaller bag.

Above: Billet receiver sets often diverge from Mil-spec standards to improve ergonomics or add features. This Ascend Armory set has enlarged bolt catch/release levers on both sides.

The lower receiver was previously set up with a LAW Tactical folding stock adapter, but I found I rarely needed it given the short length of the gun, so I removed it to shave some weight. I’m still using the VLTOR A5 buffer system, which allows the SBR to cycle smoothly and reliably, suppressed or unsuppressed, with a variety of ammo types (a key consideration for any scenario where ammo may be hard to find). The lower also contains a RISE Armament RA-535 trigger, which offers a crisp 3.5-pound break and near-immediate reset, and a Radian Talon 45-degree ambidextrous safety selector. This combination allows me to send the first round downrange the instant my sights are on target and maintain a fast and consistent cadence of follow-up shots. The charging handle is a Radian Raptor-SD, which is designed to make shooting a suppressed AR more comfortable. It features ports and angled relief cuts that divert gases inside the upper receiver, so they don’t end up seeping out and causing my nose to sting and eyes to water.

Lights & Lasers

Above: I mounted the REIN light at 2 o’clock on the handguard using Cloud’s Torrent Offset M-LOK mount; clearance is extremely tight against the ATPIAL housing. The REIN remote switch is also so close to the back of the ATPIAL that I had to file it down to clear the battery cap. A tight squeeze, but it works well.

I believe every serious defensive weapon — rifle, shotgun, or pistol — needs a visible light source to help the user positively identify targets. Nature shows us that predators avoid settings where prey can see them clearly, so you’re more likely to face a threat in twilight or total darkness than broad daylight. For this SBR, I picked a Cloud Defensive REIN Micro. It produces 1,300 lumens and 55,000 candela; in layman’s terms, that’s a whole lot of light focused into a beam that’s capable of reaching a long distance. I mounted the included remote switch to the top rail on the handguard and used its built-in cable routing channel to keep excess slack tucked out of the way. In case of switch damage, the light’s tailcap button functions as a redundant activation method.

Since this gun is intended for use with night vision, it also needed an infrared (IR) illuminator and an IR laser for active aiming (firing from a head-up position without looking through weapon-mounted sights). I fulfilled both these needs with an L3Harris ATPIAL, also known by its military designation AN/PEQ-15. The ATPIAL features a red laser for daytime zeroing, an IR laser, and a laser-based IR illuminator with adjustable focus. Although a remote switch is included, I found that I prefer using the button on top of the unit, since it’s easy to reach with my thumb.

Optic & Iron Sights

Anyone who has attempted to shoot while wearing night vision goggles (NVGs), a helmet, and electronic earmuffs knows that it’s often challenging to align your eye with a weapon’s optic (referred to as passive aiming). Switching to a taller optic mount can alleviate this, but there are some drawbacks — increased height over bore can cause rounds to impact lower than expected at close range and may lead inexperienced users to inadvertently shoot the edge of a barricade after forgetting that the muzzle is several inches below the sight.

Above: The Holosun red dot has proven itself to be dependable, but a set of Magpul offset iron sights provide a secondary means of aiming just in case. The ATPIAL’s red laser could also be used in a pinch.

In search of a happy medium, I chose a Scalarworks LEAP/01 1.57-inch-height mount. With the Aimpoint Micro optic it was designed for, this would produce a lower-1/3 cowitness with iron sights. However, the Holosun 503CU optic I’m using is about 0.25-inch taller than an Aimpoint. As a result, the centerline of the optic is 1.82 inches above the rail. Based on these measurements, Scalarworks’ taller 1.93-inch mount would result in a centerline height of 2.18 inches, which was more height than I wanted. Technical details aside, this setup offers a comfortable and easy-to-acquire aiming point, whether I’m working in broad daylight, low light, or under NVGs.

As a backup to my red-dot optic, I installed a set of Magpul MBUS Pro Offset 45-degree flip-up iron sights.

Furniture

Above: A slender MOE-SL stock prevents the rifle from interfering with helmet-mounted ear protection. It also stays out of the way of my plate carrier.

As I mentioned above, achieving the proper head position for passive aiming under NVGs is tricky, so I chose the slim Magpul MOE-SL stock to minimize interference with my helmet and ear pro. A B5 Systems pistol grip offers aggressive texture and a steeper, more comfortable angle for my wrist. On the handguard, I combined two-thirds of a Magpul M-LOK Hand Stop kit with a Magpul MVG vertical grip; the result is a textured surface with front and rear stop points for my support hand. Tactile index points are especially important for a night vision application, since I need to be able to manipulate the rifle and find its light/laser controls immediately, all while wearing gloves and being unable to clearly see my hands.

The last piece of this rifle is a Magpul MS1 padded sling, which is connected to QD sockets on the rear of the handguard and the Primary Weapons Ratchet Lock receiver endplate. The sling’s hard polymer adjustment slider is easy to find by feel in the dark. When it’s not in use, I stow it against the stock via a band of bicycle innertube (aka Ranger band).

Editor's Note: Stay tuned for the second half of this article tomorrow, featuring all the details on our 13.9-inch pin and weld rifle.

New: Prometheus Design Werx SPD X MKII Paradive Watch

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Although modern smart watches are convenient, we'll always have a soft spot for classic analog watches. They have one job, and they do it well. More importantly, they're durable and reliable in a way that even the best smart watches can't achieve. The new SPD X MKII Paradive watch is part of Prometheus Design Werx‘s Special Projects Division (SPD) line, and it features an origin story steeped in military history. The company calls it a “modernized version” of the US MIL-W-50717 dive watch, an item that was reportedly issued without military markings to members of US Special Forces and CIA maritime units from the 1960s through the early '80s.

The original MIL-W-50717 dive watch was not available commercially, so the only way for civilians to get one was secondhand. This SPD X MKII Paradive stays true to the original look, but offers updated materials and is available to the general public. It's based on an SII NE15 automatic movement in a 316L stainless steel case, finished with a double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. It also has an elapsed time bezel for tracking time spent underwater, and is waterproof to 20 ATM (660 feet).

Unique touches on the SPD edition of this MKII watch include an SPD Kraken Trident insignia, orange-tipped second hand, and PDW logo and serial number engraved on the case back.

Additionally, each SPD X MKII Paradive watch includes a fitted case with black and OD green PDW Ti-NATO straps and an Expedition Watch Band Compass Kit. MSRP for the first 50 watches will be $955.

If you've got deeper pockets, there will also be an exclusive Full Set as seen above, limited to 5 units. This Full Set includes a custom Loveless-style Chute knife by Wesley Liversage, and will be available for $1,575.

The SPD X MKII Paradive watch and Full Set will be released at 1200 PDT on July 4th. For more information, go to prometheusdesignwerx.com.

Gear Up: New Survival Gear for June 2022

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ACLIM8 Combar Foldaxe

NOTES
It’s a bird, it’s a plane, it’s a nearly indestructible three-in-one folding ax, and potentially the Superman of multi-tools. Born from a fusion of the need for adventure and the creators’ experience while serving in the Israeli Special Forces, the Combar combines strength, toughness, and versatility. The Foldaxe features a highly durable design, with the handle’s body composed of glass-reinforced polymer and an over-molded head for a strong, safe head and shaft connection. Understanding that most outdoorsmen typically don’t need a full-sized ax, the Foldaxe instead features a hatchet-size blade to tackle the most common tasks around the campsite. And as if an indestructible hatchet hammer wasn’t enough, the Combar can store a knife, a folding saw, and small storage container, eliminating the need to carry a stack of extra tools.

MODELS
Titanium, Foldaxe Pro, Pro Titanium

MSRP
$199

URL
aclim8.com

Garmont T4 Groove G-Dry Boots

FUNCTIONALITY
Hiking Multi-Terrain

MSRP
$140

URL
garmont.com

NOTES
Bridging the gap between a comfortable, everyday shoe and a serious all-terrain hiker, Garmont proves there doesn’t have to be an aesthetic sacrifice between the two. With a 1.6mm suede leather upper, the FrameFlex footbed boasts a lightweight construction that combines excellent midfoot stability with effortless front flexion for enhanced comfort when walking. Garmont’s G-Dry technology features a membrane that’s both waterproof and windproof, keeping your toe beans dry even on the wettest of days. With a balance of breathability, lightness, protection, and stylish looks, this is a great pair of footwear that walks the urban-rural line with ease.

Meopta MeoPro HD 8×56 Binoculars

MODELS
MeoPro Air, MeoSport, MeoStar, Optika LR, Optika HD

MSRP
$699

URL
meoptasportsoptics.com

NOTES
Not all binos are created equal, and that’ll be glaringly apparent the first time you look through the MeoPro HD. High-definition, extra-low dispersion, fluoride objective lens elements eliminate chromatic aberration or color fringing in challenging lighting conditions and deliver pinpoint resolution, increased contrast, and vivid color fidelity. The 56mm HD objective lens makes it a powerful optic in both bright and low-light conditions. Meopta’s proprietary ion-assisted lens multi-coating is applied to all air-to-glass optical surfaces, which eliminates distorting glare and reflections, and delivers an industry leading 99.8-percent light transmission per lens surface. One hundred-percent guaranteed to be submersible and protected against the elements. Once the focus is dialed in, it’s more akin to a high-resolution telescope than your run-of-the-mill binos.

Wiley X Waterfall Women's Jacket

STYLE
Softshell

MSRP
$129

URL
wileyx.com

NOTES
Technical clothing is easy to overthink, but Wiley X has created a jacket that’s beautiful in both simplicity and design. The women’s Waterfall Jacket is perfect for those cooler days above freezing when you want a little extra warmth without overheating. It features a two-toned gray design, full-zipper with quilted front and back panels, water-resistant film insert, and 100-percent polyester microfleece lining to keep you both dry and cozy. This trend-right performance jacket is a hard-to-beat combo of light insulation on the torso and stretch knit fabric on the sleeves for better mobility. The Waterfall jacket is also great for layering in cooler weather. Adjustable-fit locking draw cords at the hem ensure optimal ventilation and temperature control, and the bindings at the cuffs provide extra warmth.

DICEROX Lagertha Knife

MODELS
Fenrir, Kalina

MSRP
$413

URL
dicerox.com

NOTES
This blade is named after the Viking Shield-Maiden who once ruled what’s now Norway; a woman warrior so fierce, she had Ragnar fighting bears just to win her over. Lagertha, in the Viking tradition, is inspired by the saxe design, and is a versatile bushcraft knife made from premium components. Unlike many stamped-steel blades, Dicerox puts all the love and care you’d expect from small-batch, custom-made knives. The blade itself is Uddeholm Vanax steel, which is renowned for its strength and resistance to corrosion. Oak handle slabs are sourced locally from Swedish forests and processed with care by an ex-furniture-maker turned bladesmith. Swedish hide, vegetable-tanned sheaths are handmade by Dicerox and constructed from the remnants of a local saddle maker, ensuring no two sheaths will be the same. This is an heirloom-quality blade, made to outlast the one who holds it.

Fenix LR80R Rechargeable Searchlight

LUMENS
18,000

MSRP
$472

URL
varusteleka.com

NOTES
If there were a king of the flashlight mountain, the LR80R would be a promising candidate. Built to withstand punishing conditions, this light can produce 18,000 lumens, creating a beam that reaches as far as 1,130 meters (nearly three quarters of a mile). Its USB-C rechargeable 7.2V/12000mAh Li-ion battery pack fully charges in approximately four hours and eliminates the need to carry extra batteries. Its 3.6-pound weight can be easily supported with the included shoulder strap, which can also be swapped out with a hanging ring in case you need it to illuminate a single area. Two output modes — low (300 to 1,000 lumens) and high (3,000 to 18,000 lumens) — ensure only the required amount of energy is being used. The light will run for approximately 300 hours in Eco mode, and the USB-C ports can be used to charge devices from the light’s battery.

5COL Survival Supply Mini Survival Kit – ESEE Knives

DIMENSIONS
3.75 by 2.25 by 0.75 inches

MSRP
$35

URL
5col.com

NOTES
Take your mint-tin survival kit to the next level with 5COL’s Mini Survival Kit. Everything included in the kit was designed to fit perfectly within the confines of a container the size of a deck of cards. This makes it ideal to stow in a hiking pack, roadside emergency kit, or in any number of EDC loadouts. It includes the foundational tools for survival basics like a ferro rod with striker and waxed tinder, button compass, and signal mirror. After the fire is started, catch some food with the provided fishing tackle, complete with several sizes of barbed hooks, fishing line, sinkers, and a weighted jig. To top it all off, there's about 10 feet of nylon cord, about 10 feet of snare wire, a sheathed razor, and a button light with a mini carabiner.

Survivor Filter Ultra Lite Active All Terrain Bottle

CAPACITY
1 liter

MSRP
$45

URL
survivorfilter.com

NOTES
Survivor Filter is releasing a lightweight performance bottle that’ll keep you and your loved ones safely hydrated during your next outdoor excursion. After many years of feedback from customers regarding the previous version of this filtration bottle, Survivor Filter has created an improved bottle and an improved carrying case. This model features a Nalgene bottle and a water-resistant carrying case. As many of you know, Nalgene is BPA free, leaves no aftertaste, and is virtually indestructible. This system is also a win for the environment, as all the packaging is made with 100-percent recycled materials, printed with soy-based inks, and naturally biodegradable. The Active All Terrain Bottle has a filter capable of safely processing up to 25 gallons of untreated water, and it can remove any residual contaminants from up to 100 gallons of municipal tap water.

Brunton TruArc 20 Compass

MODELS
TruArc 3, TruArc 5, TruArc 7, TruArc10, TruArc 15

MSRP
$80

URL
brunton.com

NOTES
Being able to keep your bearing straight is a life-saving skill, and Brunton makes it possible with its most advanced baseplate compass. Its sighting mirror, quick-reference lid, and protective rubber foot that stores an array of map scales are just the tip of the iceberg. There are a ton of extra features that give this model more bang for your buck. The TruArc 20 has a Global Needle that tilts up to 20 degrees for balanced use across the globe, and a tool-free declination adjustment to quickly orient magnetic north to true north. Brunton’s EverNorth Magnet also resists demagnetization over time. A dual azimuth ring provides reverse azimuths, eliminating intersection and resection calculations. This particular model can also come with luminous readouts, making night navigation a breeze. Made in the USA, Brunton will keep you heading in the right direction, no matter where you are.

SunJack 25-Watt Foldable ETFE Monocrystalline Solar Panel Charger

OUTPUT
2 x 5V/2A USB ports

MSRP
$80

URL
sunjack.com

NOTES
Living off the grid doesn’t have to mean giving up electronic devices that can make life infinitely easier. Weighing in at just under 2 pounds, the SunJack Solar Panel Charger will keep lights, radios, phones, and any other USB chargeable device ready to go, even if the grid goes down. A weatherproof exterior layer improves performance and durability, making the Solar Panel Charger waterproof, shockproof, and dustproof. The panels fold easily and an integrated magnetic closure system keeps the panels closed during storage while eliminating the need for bulky straps. Its powerful 2 amps per USB port provides charging speeds that can approach those of a wall outlet and boasts a 95-percent UV permeability. Onboard technology intelligently identifies your device and maximizes charging speed to prevent overcharging. It’s an awesome accessory for outdoor adventures, a bad-weather prep kit, or for disaster and emergency situations.

Adventure Medical Kits MOLLE Bag Trauma Kit 1.0

WEIGHT
0.9 pound

MSRP
$55

URL
adventuremedicalkits.com

NOTES
Having a first-aid kit handy is a basic life-saving step, and Adventure Medical Kits makes it easy to be ready for most basic medical emergencies. Whether you’re in the field, at the office, or in the car, the MOLLE Bag Trauma Kit has a ton of supplies that can easily treat one person for several days. The 2-foot QuikClot dressing included in the kit helps stop life-threatening bleeding fast. Bandages, dressings, and medications enable you to address other wounds, bleeding, and fractures or sprains, all while keeping the patient comfortable as you make your way back to camp or await rescue. Included in the kit is a wide array of medications to treat pain, inflammation, and common allergies. The kit also comes with a Wilderness & Travel Medicine Guide, which includes over 50 improvised techniques and 100 illustrations for treating outdoor injuries and illnesses. Lightweight and with integrated MOLLE straps, the Trauma Kit 1.0 makes it easy to be prepared.

Gatorz Eyewear ANSI Z87.1 Milspec Ballistic Magnum

FRAMES
Boxter, Delta, Skyhook, Specter, Stark, Wraptor

MSRP
$300

URL
gatorz.com

NOTES
Sick of carrying around multiple pairs of ballistic eyewear, or a multitude of lenses to adjust to changes in light? Gatorz Eyewear saves the day by providing clear eye protection that automatically darkens when exposed to UV rays from the sun. This makes for a great glasses option when transitioning from indoor to outdoor, or vice versa, and allows the wearer to maintain eye protection when transitioning from day to night. The lenses are impact tested to withstand two hits from a .15-caliber projectile between 700 and 725 fps without cracking, shattering, or dislodging. An antifog coating keeps vision clear despite abrupt changes in humidity or precipitation. The lenses are oil and grease repellent and provide UV 400 protection. This may be the only pair of protective eyewear you’ll need.

DIY Disinfectants: How to Fight Diseases with Limited Resources

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Maintaining the health of an off-grid community involves suppressing infections and keeping wounds clean. For these, you’ll need antibiotics to destroy bacteria within the body and antiseptics for use on the skin. More, however, is needed to assure you’ll avoid contamination that could lead to epidemic disease among your people: you’ll need disinfectants. A disinfectant is a substance used to eliminate disease-causing organisms (called “pathogens”) on inert surfaces such as countertops and medical instruments. If these surfaces aren’t disinfected, they can be teeming with germs. Contaminated instruments and sick room surfaces can get the entire group infected. The off-grid medic needs to have disinfectants on hand that can assure the health and safety of the people in their group.

Some disinfectants do double duty as antiseptics, but many are too harsh to apply to living skin, and, certainly, too strong for internal use. They work just fine, however, on work surfaces and other inanimate objects.

Disclaimer: This article is meant to be a brief overview and not a detailed guide on creating disinfectants. Seek professional medical help before attempting any of the steps outlined in this article.

Sterile vs. Clean

Above: Boiling water eliminates enough microbes to allow it to be used in wound care.

A significant factor in the quality of medical care given off the grid is the level of cleanliness of the equipment used. You may have heard the terms “sterile” and “clean.” What’s the difference?

When it comes to medical protection, “sterility” means the complete absence of microbes. Sterile technique involves hand washing with special solutions and the use of sterile instruments, gloves, towels, and dressings. The “sterile field” is isolated to limit contact with anything that could allow micro-organisms to invade it.

Above: Work surfaces must be regularly disinfected.

It’s very difficult to achieve a “sterile field” if you’re in a remote environment. In this case, we may only be able to keep things “clean.” Clean techniques concentrate on reducing, as much as possible, the number of microorganisms that could be transferred from one person or object to another. Work surfaces must, at least, be clean or they will increase the risk of infection. Organism-containing dirt or droplets from coughing or sneezing regularly contaminate these areas.

Once visible dirt is cleaned off a surface, disinfectant solutions may be applied for what is called the “contact time.” The contact time is the time that the disinfectant must remain visibly wet on a surface to ensure full effectiveness. This time period is based on the results of Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) testing. Instructions regarding contact times are usually printed on the product label. The maximum contact time for a Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved disinfectant cannot be more than 10 minutes.

Widely Available Disinfectants

Many commercial disinfectants will be scarce in a long-term disaster. There are some widely available options, however, that can be stockpiled or improvised. Be aware that each type may vary in its effectiveness against specific organisms.

ALCOHOL
From the medic’s standpoint, the two alcohol compounds useful for disinfection are ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. These alcohols kill bacteria rapidly, although they may not be enough to destroy “spores.” A spore is a resistant form adopted by some bacteria in adverse conditions.

Above: 80-proof liquor is only 40-percent alcohol, not enough for disinfectant purposes.

Alcohol has the benefit of also being effective against viruses, fungi, and variant types of bacteria such as tuberculosis. As a disinfectant, however, alcohol’s action drops sharply when diluted under 50 percent. The optimum bactericidal concentration is 60 to 90 percent in water. The amount found in liquid hand sanitizers is usually 60 to 70 percent. A bottle of rubbing alcohol usually contains 70 percent. The amount found in 80-proof whiskey is only 40 percent, thus failing the criteria for a potent disinfectant. When spirits must be used as disinfectants, most choose 100 proof (50 percent) vodka kept wet on a surface for at least 30 minutes.

Above: Hand sanitizers should contain at least 60- to 70-percent alcohol.

The risks of using alcohol compounds to sterilize instruments include eventual damage to rubber, plastic, and other parts. Another issue is the flammability: They must be stored in a cool, well-ventilated area. Alcohols also evaporate rapidly, so you must have enough to fully immerse an instrument you want to disinfect.

CHLORINE SOLUTIONS
Chlorine solutions made from sodium and calcium hypochlorites can be powerful disinfectants. Sodium hypochlorite is available in liquid form as household bleach; calcium hypochlorite is available in various solid pool-cleaning products. Both quickly eliminate a broad array of microbes, don’t leave toxic residues, and are relatively inexpensive. Extended-release chlorine dioxide is another option which has a more prolonged effect.

Above: One part household bleach in nine parts water yields a strong disinfectant solution.

Hypochlorites are widely used for disinfecting. A 1:10 dilution of standard household bleach has been recommended for decontaminating blood spills. Full-strength bleach has been recommended for self-disinfection of needles and syringes used in needle-exchange drug programs.

In addition to skin and eye irritation, chlorine solutions can produce corrosion in plastic and metal instruments over time. When mixed with ammonia, it can produce a toxic gas.
Another issue with chlorine solutions is their longevity. If stored in an opaque container, they can last several months to a year. Left out in the open, however, they lose potency very quickly.

To make a chlorine solution with the pool cleaning agent calcium hypochlorite:

  • Add 1 heaping teaspoon of calcium hypochlorite granules to 2 gallons of water and stir. This makes a “bleach” solution.
  • Then, add one part of “bleach” solution to nine parts water to make a disinfecting solution for surfaces and instruments.

FORMALDEHYDE
Formaldehyde is sold as a water-based solution called formalin, which is 37-percent formaldehyde by weight. The solution kills bacteria, fungi, viruses, and spores.

Varying concentrations of aqueous formaldehyde solutions are needed to destroy different microorganisms. For example, almost all viruses are inactivated rapidly with a 2-percent formalin solution. Higher concentrations and longer exposures are needed for certain bacterial spores, like anthrax.

Formaldehyde is highly toxic to living tissues. Ingestion can be fatal. Long-term exposure to low levels in the air or on the skin can cause asthma-like symptoms and skin irritation. One advantage of formalin is a relatively long shelf life of at least two years.

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
Hydrogen peroxide has good germicidal activity against bacteria, viruses, spores, and fungi. The drug store version is 3-percent concentration, but stronger versions of food-grade hydrogen peroxide are available.

Above: Hydrogen peroxide mixed 1:1 with water can be effective.

The time required for inactivating common-cold viruses using a 3-percent hydrogen peroxide solution is about six to eight minutes. For disinfectant purposes, a 7-percent concentration works more rapidly. Toxicity is not usually an issue unless ingested. In fact, a 1:1 dilution of household hydrogen peroxide and water has been used as a mouth rinse.

Under normal conditions, hydrogen peroxide is extremely stable when stored in dark or opaque containers, lasting three years or more if unopened (six months if opened).

IODINE SOLUTIONS
Iodine solutions have been used by health professionals primarily as antiseptics on skin or tissue. Iodophors, on the other hand, have been used both as antiseptics and disinfectants. An iodophor is a combination of iodine and a “carrier”; the resulting complex provides a sustained-release reservoir of iodine and releases small amounts of free iodine in water. The best-known and most widely used iodophor is povidone-iodine, a compound of polyvinylpyrrolidone with iodine.

Above: Betadine, a combination of iodine and povidone, has been used as a disinfectant and antiseptic.

Betadine is the most well-known iodophor brand. It’s used most commonly as a 10-percent solution which contains only 0.001-percent free iodine. This product retains the germicidal activity of iodine, but is relatively free of toxicity if not ingested.

“Free” iodine is the main contributor to the bactericidal activity of iodophors. Surprisingly, a dilute iodophor demonstrates more rapid bactericidal action than does a full-strength one! The reason is not entirely clear, but dilute solutions seem to cause more free iodine to emerge.

Povidone-iodine solution has a published shelf life of two to three years. Unopened bottles may last longer.

Other Disinfectants to Consider

Above: Various common household products can serve as disinfectants.

While not as powerful in antimicrobial action as commercial disinfectants, certain natural products have beneficial action against germs:

  • White Vinegar: Thanks to its acidity, white vinegar removes molds and mildew and has some antibacterial activity. Vinegar works for those who want a non-toxic cleaning option.
  • Lemon: The citric acid in lemons works to eliminate debris like soap scum from surfaces. Lemon juice reduces bacteria on hard surfaces, but is less effective than both vinegar and commercial cleaners.

Above: Vinegar has been used as a disinfectant, but isn’t as strong as some others.

  • Essential Oils: Essential oils have a wide range of medicinal properties; some can be used as a disinfectant and can enhance the cleaning properties of soap. Tea tree oil, in particular, has been used as an antibacterial agent in fish ponds; citronella, germanium, and lemon grass are other options.
  • Steam: Combining water and heat produces an economical, chemical-free disinfectant. Steam from boiling water can eliminate debris and disinfect surfaces and instruments. Hospitals use machines called “autoclaves” for this purpose.

Pressure Cookers –  An Autoclave Alternative

Above: Instruments can be disinfected using a pressure canner.

You won’t have an autoclave, but having a pressure cooker/canner as part of your supplies will allow instruments to achieve the level of sterility required for minor surgical procedures. You’ll need to achieve 15-20 psi (250 degrees Fahrenheit) for at least 20 minutes. Here's a step-by-step guide to using a pressure cooker to sterilize instruments:

  1. Wash and scrub instruments to remove any visible debris.
  2. Allow instruments to dry.
  3. Wrap instruments in aluminum foil (keeps clamps and scissors in an open position).
  4. Place a wire stand or steamer basket on the bottom of the pot to prevent water from touching foil-wrapped instruments. Another option is to use an uncovered mason jar to hold them.
  5. Add 1 to 2 inches of plain water to the pot.
  6. Run the pressure cooker at 15-20 psi for at least 20 minutes.
  7. Allow everything to cool gradually.
  8. Safely lift the lid to allow the steam to escape.
  9. Lower the lid to let instruments dry and cool inside the cooker.
  10. Once cool and dry, place foil-wrapped instruments inside plastic bags for storage purposes.

Pressure cookers, if used incorrectly, can cause severe burn and scalding injuries. Be sure to have a working knowledge and experience using them (read your manual).

Ultraviolet Radiation
A significant development in the quest to sterilize medical instruments off the grid comes from a recent study commissioned by the military. The study, published in the journal “Wilderness and Environmental Medicine,” explored the use of UVC light as a survival medical tool.

Above: Using UVC light as a disinfectant starts with scrubbing an instrument with chlorhexidine (Hibiclens).

In this study, instruments laden with MRSA and other bacteria were first scrubbed with Chlorhexidine (Hibiclens) antiseptic for 30 seconds and dried with a sterile gauze 4×4-inch pad. Then, a battery-powered ultraviolet C (UVC) wand was passed within 4 inches all over the instruments for 45 seconds.

Evaluation afterwards revealed a 100-percent reduction of bacteria and achieved levels of sterilization acceptable for use in the field. If the instruments were not used right away, rapid vacuum sealing extended the life of sterility.

Above: After cleaning with chlorhexidine, pass a UVC wand completely around the instrument for 45 seconds.

Strict attention to hygiene and disinfection will save many lives in the aftermath of a disaster. It takes someone willing to stockpile and improvise ways to keep their people healthy in such a scenario. If that person succeeds, a major catastrophe can be just a bump on the road, not the end of the road, for their family or group.

About the Author

Joe Alton, MD is a physician, medical preparedness advocate, and Fellow of both the American Colleges of Surgeons and OB/GYN. He is the author of the Book Excellence Award winner in medicine, The Survival Medicine Handbook: The Essential Guide For When Help Is NOT On The Way and other books. He is also the designer of an entire line of quality medical kits at store.doomandbloom.net and altonfirstaid.com.