Point the Way: Survival Compass Buyer’s Guide

As survivalists, all of the gear we purchase or invest in is necessary, but some of it just isn’t that exciting. Water purification system? It’ll save you from contracting nasty parasites, but it’s not exactly a conversation piece you show off to all your friends. A lighter, stronger groundsheet to place under your tent? Meh. Other objects, thankfully, smack of high adventure and exploration, of manifest destiny and blazing a trail. The compass, clearly, falls into the latter category.

If you still question why you’d ever need a compass since your phone has Google Maps and GPS, then this probably isn’t the article for you. If, however, you’ve ever gotten lost in the woods because your phone (or handheld GPS) ran out of batteries, lost signal, or fell into a creek, then settle in and read up on the latest offerings we’ve collected.

Photo of an adult male backpacker sitting on the ground and reading his compass.

We explore six different compass models in this buyer’s guide, ranging the entire spectrum from basic backpacker to professional off-grid adventurer. Our hope is that this guide assists your decision-making process the next time you consider supplementing your survivalist land-nav tool belt. If you’re still wondering how exactly to use one, please refer to Ryan Cleckner’s article on land navigation from Issue 29.

Brunton Conventional Transit

Everything about this precision compass exemplifies high quality and durability — and for its stratospheric price, it’s about what we’d expect to see. From the oiled leather case that it arrives in to the heavy (nearly 1/2 pound) cast-aluminum body, it definitely looks the part of a tool designed for serious and long-term use.

Studio photo of the Brunton Conventional Transit compass.

Designed in 1894 by Canadian-born mining engineer David W. Brunton, the Transit is widely used to this day by professional geologists and engineers. The movement of the needle is smooth and very fast, with immediate dampening and ability to “lock on” to magnetic north faster than any other compass we tested. This is because rather than being filled with fluid like most compasses, the Brunton utilizes magnetic induction damping and a sapphire jewel bearing, contributing to smooth movement through 360 degrees.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Brunton 3

Its locking clamshell design helps to protect its sensitive components; however, we found it could be difficult to open with shaky or cold hands, and impossible (for us) to open with gloves on. This drawback isn’t necessarily a deal breaker, but it’s indicative that it was designed more for use by professionals in relatively pleasant weather conditions — not so much for survival in frigid environments.

Unlike some of the other models we tested, the Transit has no tritium or glow-in-the-dark inserts; therefore it isn’t as easily readable in low-light conditions. Again, this isn’t really a design flaw since it was designed for professionals reading the compass during the day, at a time that’s convenient for them. However, for survival purposes we have to consider it a drawback.

Would we take it with us if our lives depended on it? Probably. Would we want to pay $400 for it? Not really. The product is basically unparalleled, but it may be a bit more than we really need or want to plunk down money for. Published accuracy +/- 0.5 degrees.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Brunton 1

Pros:

  • Extremely high craftsmanship
  • Proven durability when cared for
  • Impressive to look at and hold

Cons:

  • Heavy
  • Expensive
  • Not useful for map reading

Materials

Aluminum

Weight
6.8 ounces

Dimensions
3.1 by 2.8 by 1.3 inches

MSRP
$440

URL
brunton.com

Cammenga 3H (M1950)

More than 60 years after its original design as specified by the U.S. Army, the Cammenga 3H is also known as the M1950 compass, which began production in 1950. It’s been relied upon by generations of soldiers through all environments, including the frozen Chosin Reservoir in Korea, the jungles of Vietnam, and present-day service in Iraq and Afghanistan. It took its design cues from lessons learned with the M1938 compass used in WWII. The Army liked the basic blueprint but wanted to give it a tougher and heavier housing as well as a damping mechanism to prevent wild swinging of the needle. With these modifications, a legend was born.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Cammenga 1

Like the Brunton model, the 3H is made in the United States and uses a non-liquid filled needle housing. The movement of the needle is very smooth, although it doesn’t turn or settle in quite the same confident or reassuring manner as the Brunton. We liked that we were able to open and use the compass using our whole hand, not just our fingertips as with the larger Brunton. Opening and sighting was faster and more intuitive, and the seven tritium micro-lights assisted in low-light acquisition.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Cammenga 2

From a durability standpoint, there’s no question that the 3H is hard to kill. It’s waterproof and shockproof, and tested in temperatures from -50F to 150F (-45C to 65C). The aluminum frame, although not quite as tank-like as the Brunton Transit, is still substantial and didn’t have a problem with being dropped or stepped on.

Even in 2018, any combat veteran who has actually had to rely on his or her gear will tell you that some of the Mil-spec articles they’re issued are complete junk. With a sterling track record and a more than half-century of abusive field testing behind it, the 3H is a well-loved exception. We wouldn’t hesitate to place our lives in its hands, and there aren’t many sub $100 tools we can say that about. Published accuracy: +/- 2.25 degrees.

Pros:

  • Basically the same compass your father (and/or grandfather) used
  • Unrivaled reliability record
  • All-temperature performance

Cons:

  • Without a clear baseplate, may not be quite as easy to read maps
  • Compass card divided into 5-degree increments; not as precise as some other compasses

Materials
Aluminum

Weight
5.3 ounces

Dimensions
3 by 2.25 by 1 inches

MSRP
$105 to $141

URL
cammenga.com

 

Coleman Engineer Lensatic Compass

Our first impression was that we’d found this as a “prize” in the bottom of a Cracker Jack box or it was the one Morgan Freeman bought at the pawnshop in Shawshank Redemption. The thin plastic housing felt like it might snap in two as soon as we opened the case.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Coleman 1

After opening it, we worried that if we stepped on the compass it’d break, yet were pleasantly surprised that somehow it stood up to a 230-pound man putting all his weight on top of it (following the navigational testing, of course).

Trying to sight the liquid-filled compass wasn’t easy, but it was doable. The nail in the coffin, however, came when we couldn’t get the needle to align properly. No amount of tapping or cajoling would yield a consistent reading, and magnetic north consistently wandered between 10 to 20 degrees away.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Coleman 2

Although this compass is inexpensive, $10 spent on garbage is still a waste. We wouldn’t even give it to a child as a learning tool, fearing that they might actually try to use it one day for real navigation. Its only real use would be as part of a Halloween costume. Coleman does offer some quality products, but this isn’t one of them. We can only hope that they put this product out of its misery before someone makes the mistake of relying upon it in a life-and-death situation.

Pros:

  • Low cost
  • Surprisingly durable
  • Compact

Cons:

  • Finicky needle with unreliable accuracy
  • Luminous letters aren’t very bright

Materials
Plastic

Weight
3 ounces

Dimensions
2.2 by 1.1 inches

MSRP
$10

URL
coleman.com

 

Silva 515 Ranger Compass

As with the Coleman compass, at first we were suspicious of the Silva because of its light weight. When we actually started reading bearings and using it with maps, however, we found the mirror design to be very well-thought-out and clearly marked. And although it’s very lightweight, the plastic is thick in the right places to prevent damage. Three scales, a map magnifier, clinometer, and declination adjustment were additional features that made its value stand out.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Silva 2

In this product evaluation group, its closest competitor would be the Suunto MC-2, so let’s make some comparisons. The design on both of them is very similar, and their appearance, weight, and feel are very close. There are a few differences, as noted in the Suunto section which follows, but both designs have a solid reputation in the backcountry.

Pros:

  • Lightweight compass with precise 2-degree measurement increments
  • Affordable cost and good entry-level value

Cons:

  • Liquid-filled capsule may have issues in low temperatures.
  • Rotating bezel was overly loose.

Materials
Plastic

Weight
2.4 ounces

Dimensions
4 by 2.5 inches

MSRP
$50

URL
silva.se

 

Suunto MC-2 Compass

This design is quite lightweight, although tougher than what you’d initially expect. As with the Silva, both designs use a clear plastic backing, making it easier to quickly find where you’re going and chart a course on a paper map. They both utilize liquid-filled capsules, which can sometimes create problems when used in low temperatures.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Suunto 1

Glow-in-the-dark (non-tritium) markings, which need to be “re-charged” with a flashlight in the dark, are also used on the faces of both compasses. The Suunto, however, features a thick, bright ring around the compass face as well as on the directional markings. This seems preferable, as it helped us to locate it in the dark and provided faster orientation in low light.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map Suunto 2

An informal polling of our wilderness search-and-rescue associates revealed their unanimous approval of this option from Suunto, although we still weren’t 100-percent sold. While both the Suunto and Silva retail for less than the Cammenga 3H, we’d still pick the Cammenga for its intuitive ease of use and unquestionable durability in all conditions. Published accuracy: +/- 2 degrees.

Pros:

  • Solidly built (for plastic) compass with proven field experience
  • Lightweight frame
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Cons:

  • Suunto logo blocks orientation arrows, making map use more difficult
  • Markings may need to be recharged in the dark

Materials
Plastic

Weight
2.6 ounces

Dimensions
2.56 by 3.98 by 0.71 inches

MSRP
$60

URL
suunto.com

 

UST High Visibility Folding Map Compass

Retailing for $10, the UST mirror compass is in the same price range as the Coleman Lensatic compass, but offers significantly better build quality. It’s also easily readable, even for laypersons who don’t have much experience using a compass. Even if you don’t use the mirror function and just use it for basic wayfinding, it’d still be worth the price of admission to keep on-hand as a backup.

Although the plastic snap closure isn’t as crisp as on the similar Suunto or Silva models, the UST compass still didn’t feel like a toy. The compass needle settled fairly quickly, and the day-glo green backing allowed us to find it quickly in or bag or locate it if dropped on the ground.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map UST 2v2

The metal pins which hold the plastic clamshell pieces together began to work their way out after a series of openings and closings, raising questions about its long-term durability when used in the field. However, as an affordable model for someone just learning to use a mirror type compass, it’s a worthwhile option.

Survival compass buyers guide review navigation declination map UST 1

Pros:

  • Very low cost
  • Decent functionality for entry-level users

Cons:

  • Lesser build quality than higher-priced models

Materials
Plastic

Weight
2.4 ounces

Dimensions
3.7 by 2.5 by 0.7 inches

MSRP
$10

URL
ustbrands.com

 

Related Posts

About the Author

Andrew Schrader is a licensed professional engineer and is certified by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as an Urban Search and Rescue (USAR) Structures Specialist. His company, Recon Response Engineering LLC, educates firefighters and search-and-rescue teams on the subject of urban search and rescue and building collapse. He was deployed on rescue operations for Hurricane Hermine in 2016 and Hurricane Irma in 2017.

More From Issue 29

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid’s free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 30

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 28

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Old-School Navigation: How to Use a Map and Compass

How hard can it be? After all, if you want to go “up” on a map, you just follow the direction that your compass is pointing, right? Well, navigation is actually a bit more complicated than that.
There are three different “norths” — true north, magnetic north, and grid north.

True north refers to the very top of the globe (the North Pole), magnetic north is where the north-seeking arrow of your compass points, and grid north is the direction the vertical grid lines on your map point. Why are they different, and how does this affect your ability to navigate accurately? Follow along to find out.

True North and Magnetic North

True north and magnetic north are different because, despite what many believe, the North Pole isn’t magnetic and your compass doesn’t point there. Instead, your compass points to a giant ore deposit in Northern Canada. Therefore, depending on where you’re standing in the world, your compass may actually point off to the side of true north.

Compass map navigation survival shtf emergency hiking backpacking magnetic north grid declination 7

Above: True north (top of globe/earth) versus magnetic north (where your compass points). Compasses don’t actually point at the North Pole; instead they point at Northern Canada.

For example, in parts of Tennessee and Alabama, magnetic north and true north are in line with each other so there’s no perceptible difference between the two at that location.

However, the variance gets worse the further east or west you are. For example, in parts of Georgia, your compass will indicate a few degrees west of the North Pole. In Maine, your compass will be a staggering 16 degrees west of true north.

Going the other direction produces opposite results. In Louisiana, your compass will point a few degrees east of True North, and in Alaska, your compass might point a whopping 25 degrees to the east of true north. So if you’re in certain parts of America and want to walk to the North Pole by following “north” on your compass, you’ll never get there.

To make this more difficult, magnetic north actually shifts. Year to year, the location to which your compass points changes slightly. Therefore, it’s important to know the current values for your specific location. It doesn’t move much, so if you use information from last year it may not make much of a difference. But if you use data from 10 years ago, it may be enough of a change to cause you to miss your mark.

The difference between true north and magnetic north for a given location is called magnetic declination, measured in the number of degrees of variation and the direction (east or west). More on declination in a bit.

Compass map navigation survival shtf emergency hiking backpacking magnetic north grid declination 8

Above: These lines show how magnetic declination varies across the United States. The lines curve because a map, as shown, is flat but the Earth isn’t.

Grid North

Grid north refers to the orientation of the gridlines on a map and often diverges quite a bit from true north and magnetic north.

Why don’t the gridlines on a map point to true north? Well, let’s start with a fact that may upset some diehard conspiracy theorists — the Earth is spherical. If you’ve ever tried to cover a bowling ball with postage stamps (don’t ask), you’ll know that a bunch of square shapes don’t fit nicely on a sphere, especially toward the top and bottom. The same is true with trying to create a bunch of square representations (maps) of our Earth. Therefore, to keep our maps square, we have to fudge a bit on the orientation of gridlines.

Print

Above: Square maps might work around the equator, but notice how the shape changes closer to the poles.

The current system used for U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) maps is called Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM). That’s just a really fancy way of referring to the layout and number of gridlines on our globe. This methodology is very similar to the Military Grid Reference System (MGRS) used by the U.S. Armed Forces.

The UTM concept is metric-based, in that grids are broken down into tenths to determine a location on the map. Once you’ve learned it, it’s an incredibly powerful system that can utilize varying numbers of digits to signify different levels of accuracy. For example, a four-digit grid number refers to a square kilometer (1,000 meter square), while a 10-digit grid number is used for accuracy down to 1 square meter.

Understanding and using this system could easily be a subject for its own article, so we’ll leave it at that for now.

Why Should You Care About the Three Norths?

Well, if you look on a map and see a fresh water source or road you need to reach directly above your current position, it’s essential to know which north is “up” and how to make your conversions to get there.

Although we refer to these as the “Three Norths,” it’s really the three types of directions or azimuths. An azimuth is the direction of an object/location from an observer represented in degrees. Whereas, a bearing is the direction you’re traveling. For example, “I confirmed that the water tower was behind me at an azimuth of 90 degrees before I continued on my bearing of 270 degrees.”

Shooting an azimuth with a lensatic compass.

Shooting an azimuth with a lensatic compass.

It’s common to refer to an azimuth as “measured” when it was determined a map, and “shot” when it was determined from using a lensatic compass. Shooting an azimuth is accomplished by aiming at a visible landmark through the sights of a lensatic compass, much like you would with the iron sights of a gun. For example, “I measured an azimuth of 45 degrees from the map. I confirmed the direction of the hilltop by shooting an azimuth of 45 degrees.”

For example, there’s 90 degrees (east) on your compass (magnetic 90 degrees), a right turn from true north (true 90 degrees), and straight to the right on your map (grid 90 degrees).
That isn’t meant to confuse you or make it sound excessively complicated. Instead, it’s important to picture three different orientations of an entire 360-degree circle. Each circle’s north points to a slightly different location, and it’s important to know which system someone is referring to when they tell you to travel 5 kilometers with an azimuth of 180 degrees. If you’re in Acadia National Park in Maine and they gave you a grid north azimuth and you use a magnetic azimuth, you’ll end up almost 1.5 kilometers away from where you intended.

Declination

When using a map and compass, it’s often necessary to convert between a grid azimuth and a magnetic azimuth. Although we introduced the concept of the deviation of magnetic north from true north, it’s not very common to convert between them. The two norths you’ll likely be most concerned with are grid north and magnetic north because those are the two norths that correspond with the tools in your hand — the map is a grid while your compass is magnetic.

When converting from one to the other, you must either add or subtract the difference in degrees depending on whether magnetic north appears to the left or right of grid north from your current position.

Compass map navigation survival shtf emergency hiking backpacking magnetic north grid declination 5

On USGS maps, you’ll find a declination diagram at the bottom of the map (highlighted above). This diagram will represent the difference between each of the three norths from the center of the map on a certain date. Be sure to check the date! If it’s too old, you should look up the current declination numbers for that map.

Here’s an example from an older map of the Grand Canyon. From this diagram, we can see that our compass would point to magnetic north a little over 13 degrees to the right of “straight up” on the map (grid north). True north is represented by a star.

Compass map navigation survival shtf emergency hiking backpacking magnetic north grid declination 4

Above: For this example in the Grand Canyon, grid north (“GN”) differs from true north (the star) by 38 minutes and from magnetic north (“MN”) by another 13 degrees. Grid north is what you’d see on your map, and magnetic north is what your compass would indicate.

Note that the difference between magnetic north and grid north in this diagram is 13 degrees and 38 minutes (slightly over half a degree because there are 60 minutes in a degree). It’s 13 degrees from magnetic north to true north and then an additional 0 degrees and 38 minutes from true north to grid north.

For this example, I wouldn’t worry about the additional 0 degrees and 38 minutes. After all, I’d be planning to walk across terrain — I’m not surveying property lines. However, it’s important to note because it is a significant figure on some maps. Let’s just assume an even 13 degrees for the rest of this example.

Conversions

From any azimuth using this map, there’ll be a 13-degree difference between the azimuth on the map and an azimuth shot with your compass. There are a few mnemonics to help you remember when to add or subtract the difference (we’ll give you an example shortly). Also, some compasses have tools that help account for declination.

If you’d like to set the declination in your compass, follow the instructions for your particular model compass. By doing this, you can offset the direction the compass points in relation to where the magnetic needle points. This can be handy for many; however, there are good reasons to convert declination in your head and to leave the settings on your compass alone.

First, you’ll never forget your settings on your compass and accidentally use an old/incorrect declination setting. Second, many compass features involve perfectly orienting a map, aligning a compass edge for your path, and then aligning the needle within certain marks as a guide for your azimuth. This is a good way to use a map and compass. In fact, it’s probably the most recommended and taught method. However, I like to use a map and compass “on the go” and don’t always want to stop and spread everything out.

Also, I like to employ advanced techniques, such as intersection and resection, that require a good understanding of what’s going on. Using rotating bezels and guide marks to help you with your path are handy, but they often remove some of the important basics, such as understanding how to convert azimuths and what you’re actually doing.

A great mnemonic to convert for declination is “LARS,” which stands for “left add, right subtract,” because it’s simple and doesn’t require you to know whether you’re in an area with easterly or westerly declination (more on that next).

To use the LARS mnemonic, you simply look at, and use, the declination diagram on the bottom of your map. If you have a magnetic azimuth at the Grand Canyon and you want to convert that to a grid azimuth, place your finger on the magnetic north arrow and note that you’d need to move your finger left to get to the grid north arrow.

Using LARS, we know that going to the left means “add” — therefore we add the 13 degrees to convert from magnetic north to grid north. To convert from grid to magnetic, we’d move our finger to the right so we’d subtract the 13 degrees.

Let’s jump to an example to see how this works and also to see a real-world example of when you might need to do this.

Grid to Magnetic: Imagine that you know your position on the map, and you’d like to walk to a road intersection on the map that measures 35 degrees from your position. As you now know, you can’t just find 35 degrees with your compass and walk that way because you’ll be 13 degrees off-course … but which way? We have a measured grid azimuth of 35 degrees, but we need to shoot a magnetic azimuth for our compass. On this map, we move to the right to get from Grid North to Magnetic North on the declination diagram so we use the LARS mnemonic and know that we have to subtract the 13-degree difference for this location. We end up walking a bearing of 22 degrees with our compass to get to a point on our map 35 degrees from our location.

Magnetic to Grid: Now imagine that you’re sitting on a hilltop and see something in the distance. You use your compass and determine that the object is 270 degrees from your position, but you’d like to see where the object is on your map. Because you used your compass, you now have a magnetic azimuth and you need to convert to a grid azimuth. On our example map, your finger must move to the left as it transitions from the magnetic to the grid north arrows in the declination diagram, therefore using the mnemonic LARS tells us to add the 13-degree declination to our magnetic azimuth to get our grid azimuth of 283 degrees.

Compass map navigation survival shtf emergency hiking backpacking magnetic north grid declination

Above: Acadia National Park, Maine. The difference between magnetic north and grid north is 16.5 degrees; failing to account for this on a 5km trek will make you miss your target by
1.4 km. 

Another popular mnemonic is “west is best, east is least.” The trick here is to add the difference (best) with westerly declination and subtract it (least) for easterly declination. There are two reasons why we don’t recommend this one.

First, you need to remember that the declination is east on the west half of the U.S. and west in the east. Yes, you read that right. Second, you need to remember that this is only for converting from grid to magnetic (and not the other way around). The modified mnemonic “from map to field the proper yield is east is least and west is best” can help you recall this conversion, but even then, it’s ripe for confusion.

Drop the GPS

This may have been a lot to absorb. Apologies if it was. However, we hope that this encourages you to learn more about the critical skill of land navigation with a map and compass.

About the Author

Ryan Cleckner is a former special operations sniper and sniper instructor. Currently, he’s a firearms law attorney, best-selling author, university lecturer, Trigger Words podcast host, and entrepreneur. He runs RocketFFL, which helps people get an FFL and stay compliant, Mayday Safety, a software/app company that helps protect schools and other organizations, and his newest project, online firearms courses at GunUniversity.com.

More From Issue 29

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid’s free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 30

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 28

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


One-Man Timber Hauler

Anyone who has ever camped in a dense forest knows that finding an ideal campsite can be tricky. You need to look for a sufficiently-flat and spacious clearing between trees, and ensure that debris and fallen logs aren’t obstructing it. It’s simple enough to move small pieces of wood out of the way, even if it may be tedious. But what can you do if there’s a heavy log laying smack in the middle of your chosen location?

Photo: U.S. National Park Service / NPS.gov

In many forests, clear campsites are few and far between. Photo: U.S. National Park Service / NPS.gov

Most fallen timber can be moved with the help of some friends, but if you’re camping alone, you shouldn’t try to muscle it out of the way at the risk of throwing out your back. As the saying goes, work smarter, not harder. In the video below, Coalcracker Bushcraft demonstrates an easy technique for moving fallen timber with nothing but a piece of strong rope. It doesn’t even require any knot-tying knowledge.

Coalcracker Bushcraft one man timber hauler rope log forest wood 1

After determining the direction you want to move the log, find a sturdy tree and loop the rope around it. Then pull both ends of the rope under the timber, over it, and back to the tree. This provides an anchor point with a mechanical advantage that reduces the amount of strength you’ll need to roll the log out of the way. Check out the full video:

In addition to clearing campsites, this method could be used to move freshly-felled logs towards your camp for fire-making and shelter-building. Also, a word of caution: remember that the presence of fallen timber could be a sign of danger. Keep an eye out for widowmaker branches overhead, and avoid camping near the base of dead or dying trees.


Review: Veritas Tactical VT-16 5.56mm AR Pistol

Photos by Nick Robbs

The prospect of getting out of a bad situation under hostile conditions looms in the minds of most preppers. It seems that the more we enrich our life with children, pets, money, and other assets, the more we tend to think about what we’d do in a SHTF scenario. We also realize that time will be of the essence and that, in order to remain mobile and self-sufficient, storage space and load carriage is often at a premium.

One of the biggest considerations for bugging out is firearms selection. A reliable pistol is usually considered a must, with type, caliber, form, and fit all boiling down to shooter’s preference. What about a long-range hunting rifle? It might be a no-brainer if you have access to the skills and environment to harvest your own meat as part of a long-term survival plan.

Veritas Tactical VT-16 556 AR pistol review survival gun rifle caliber pdw 1

But what about a dedicated fighting gun? Something kept at the ready specifically for the off chance we run into, or are visited by, those “pack people” who want what we have? How do we deal with those? How do we address the intermediate range situation that may require a high volume of accurate fire, delivered quickly? There are many options that fit the bill, some that can pull double duty in the game-getter role. But a highly concealable weapon that offers aggressive ballistics, yet can be quickly and easily concealed, is an asset that can prove useful in both urban and backwoods scenarios — particularly those that may require movement through areas of varying or unknown risk.

The gun industry is, unfortunately, prone to gusts of profit-driven fads. To those of us in the off-grid community, who tend to be more driven by function, it can be very dizzying indeed. But once in a while we see that gust morph into a prevailing wind, and we must pay attention. The latest prevailing wind is the AR pistol with a brace — and for good reason. The AR pistol is a highly functional variant of the AR platform that allows increased deployability by way of its reduced size and weight. In our all-too-familiar scenario, this is an absolute key to survival.

Veritas Tactical is a small shop in Texas specializing in producing some of the most compact versions of the AR platform we’ve seen. The head shed at Veritas is made up of military veterans who have extensive experience in the private and executive protection community. That experience highlighted the need for an incredibly compact weapon that could bring rifle-caliber firepower into play in a hurry. Their short-barreled VT-15 and VT-16, available in both pistol and SBR form, answers the call for an emergency bug-out blaster.

Veritas Tactical VT-16 556 AR pistol review survival gun rifle caliber pdw 2v2

The VT-16’s compact size is equally at home in urban or underbrush environments.

RECOIL OFFGRID got the chance to run their VT-16 Executive pistol, a 5.56mm AR pistol with a 4.5-inch barrel. The rear end is finished with an SB Tactical brace coupled with a Law Tactical side-folding adapter. When folded, the entire gun is slightly larger than a men’s size 10 shoe. In a sudden-onset survival emergency, you may be required to cover long distance on foot, or in a tightly packed vehicle. Without reverting to the beat-to-death adage about pounds equaling pain, the VT-16’s attributes offer distinct advantages in the size and weight categories — we’ll discuss that more in a bit.

Under the Hood

Shrinking the AR platform down to the length of an average forearm requires far more than simply chopping the barrel and slapping on a brace. These are purpose-built weapons that require additional engineering and design work to keep them running smoothly and reliably. The biggest piece of redesign was the Micro Gas Tube. This tube, shorter even than an AR pistol-length gas tube, incorporates a unique combination of both the length and bend of the tube.

The other proprietary piece of the puzzle is gas port diameter. The gas port, or the hole in the barrel allowing propellant gas to bleed off and cycle the action, is a key part of an AR-type weapon’s reliability. If the port is too small, the weapon won’t cycle consistently. If it’s too large, the gun can be “over-gassed,” resulting in increased wear and tear on your action and increasing the need for frequent maintenance due to more rapid carbon buildup. So finding the just-right fit for gas port diameter is of utmost importance. Specifically, Veritas wanted the Micro Gas system to function with as many stock parts as possible. Whatever their secret recipe, they say that their Micro Gas Tube system will run with standard gas blocks, BCGs, buffer springs, and buffers. You may swap out an H or H2 buffer to tune the system to your preferred load, but no custom bolt or buffer parts are required. They say these guns will run suppressed or unsuppressed without the need for an adjustable gas block.

Veritas Tactical VT-16 556 AR pistol review survival gun rifle caliber pdw 6v2

Despite the use of some proprietary gas system components, the Veritas VT-16 utilizes standard carbine buffers and...

Besides the gas system, the rest of the VT-16 is standard AR fare. Receiver sets, fire-control parts, and sights/optics options may all be chosen from the rank-and-file of “regular size” AR accessories. The Law Tactical Folding mechanism, paired with an arm brace, is a perfect example of capitalizing on existing aftermarket products to minimize size and maximize potential. Our test gun was their VT-16 Executive, sporting an eyebrow-raising 4.5-inch barrel and a 5.25-inch house-made handguard. The barrel is topped with a Kaw Valley Linear comp. We were thankful for this choice, as it kept the blast directed away from the shooter.

Pocket Heater

The VT-16’s gift to those trying to make their way through a survival scenario is its ability to hide away in any space larger than the glovebox of your vehicle. We got it into the CCW compartment of a Vertx sling bag, the bottom of a Grey Ghost messenger bag, the laptop sleeve of an Oakley backpack, and into a Tyr Tactical Traveler’s bag, just to name the few we had on hand. If you don’t need the VT-16 on your person, it’ll fold up into a large shoebox that can be slid inconspicuously under your bed, into the back of your closet, or in the trunk of your car. For those concerned that an earth-tone sling bag will attract attention as being filled with tactical or survival gear, the VT-16 can be a true rifle-caliber “gray gun.” This capacity to blend in isn’t limited to storage, either. Utilizing a single-point sling, the gun can be folded and concealed under a windbreaker, baggy zip-fleece or raincoat.

Our test gun was from their Executive series pistol line, and included a number of upgrades, including custom Cerakote and Holosun red dot.

Our test gun was from their Executive series pistol line, and included a number of upgrades, including custom Cerakote...

This brings us to the theory behind the niche this weapon is intended to fill. As we said earlier, this gun was designed by an executive protection professional. The idea was never for this type of weapon to be a primary source of firepower. It’s not meant for assaulters, entry teams, or distant engagements across wooded fields. Veritas built the VT series specifically to be a last-ditch gun that could provide immediate and overwhelming firepower for a short period of time. In the suit-clad urban environment of the protection community, who must often enter high threat conditions without the law enforcement or military credentials required to carry bona fide submachine guns, this gun provides a unique answer to a specific problem.

But why does any of that matter to everyday people who simply want to be prepared for the worst potentials of an uncertain world? Protecting your loved ones and community could be considered similar to an executive protection scenario. You’re responsible for the health and safety of people who may not be able to take care of themselves, in an environment not conducive to the open carry and presentation of weapons, fraught with unknown and changing levels of immediate threat to safety and security.

The addition of the Law Tactical folding mechanism reduces the VT-16's length or a scant 15 inches when collapsed.

The addition of the Law Tactical folding mechanism reduces the VT-16’s length or a scant 15 inches when collapsed.

While some may fear or fantasize about a completely shattered western society where leather-clad bandits blasting death metal ride around in welded-together muscle trucks in a giant running gun battle, the most likely heuristic of a crisis or disaster scenario will probably be a lot more subtle. There may be power outages or shortages of supplies for a couple days at a time. Based on the results of recent weather disasters, it seems unlikely that large masses of people will go straight to plundering to get what they think they need.

In a lower-intensity scenario, walking around with a full-sized battle rifle slung across your chest might actually make things worse for you. People averse to firearms ownership or scared for their safety may think that you’re the bandit coming to pillage their home. Avoiding the perception of being an aggressor will enable you to seek help and resources more readily once they’re available. The Veritas allows you to keep rifle firepower close at hand without a brandished, overt show of force. If per chance you do come across the armed raiders, they might mistake you for an easy target, allowing you to disrupt their OODA loop and regain the element of surprise when that Law Tactical folder snaps into place and you loose that first burst of 5.56mm self-defense.

Not All Guns and Roses

We put roughly 600 rounds of 55-grain Lake City FMJ through the VT-16 over two days. We ran the test gun hard and fast, with a combination of standard capacity mags and Magpul D-60 drums. No stoppages or feeding issues of any kind were experienced. Targets were scattered from 7 to 50 yards at various points throughout our test and the Veritas VT-16 held approximately 1 MOA at all of those distances.

The only issues we encountered were two double fires — one during each of the two days we shot, with both occurring around the 200-round mark on each day. In both instances, we fired one round with another one going off immediately after despite only one trigger press. There are a couple different factors that could cause this. But, given the immense amount of heat getting pushed back into the chamber by the micro gas system, and how many rounds we’d put through the gun, we suspect that cook-off may be a factor here.

Fully extended, the VT-16 has the ability to bring rifle-caliber firepower almost anywhere, anytime.

Fully extended, the VT-16 has the ability to bring rifle-caliber firepower almost anywhere, anytime.

While the VT-16 is a quality weapon that makes a bold statement in a very particular niche of preparedness, there are some things to consider, based on our experience. First, the VT-16 is loud. Like, really loud. Ear popping, teeth-rattling loud. Even with hearing protection. And if you’re shooting it indoors or in a confined space, it can be potentially disorienting. Additionally, while the fireball that comes of out the Kaw Valley Linear Comp is thoroughly entertaining, it’s not at all discreet. Again, we acknowledge fully that this weapon is meant for rapid deployment after a bunch of smelly stuff has already hit the fan. But it’s a public service announcement worth making that there’s nothing subtle about this blaster when it’s time to go to work. Once it comes into play, everybody will know the fight is on. We’re curious to see how it fares with an effective flash hider like the Smith Vortex or the BE Meyers 249F, but we didn’t have an opportunity to test this.
If you’re turned off by the idea of a roaring weapon, Veritas also makes integrally suppressed models in .300 Blackout that offer all the reduced-signature benefits of the cartridge in a weapon not much bigger than our test gun.

Additionally, make sure you’re incredibly careful where you place your support hand. A forward handstop is highly recommended when using this weapon. While we didn’t have any safety issues during our testing, it’s an increased and very real risk due to the short size. This is another area where the aforementioned heat transfer comes back into play. By the end of several hundred rounds, the handguard was incredibly hot. Too hot to touch without gloves, even. We’re not particularly surprised, with the high volume of gas traveling through an incredibly short tube. While it might be great for getting out of surprise scrapes, the VT-16 is probably not the ideal choice for a sustained firefight.

All in all, Veritas Tactical has brought a very interesting tool to the survival market. Designed with personal protection in mind, its small size and disproportionate offering of firepower might be just the semi-automatic security blanket that helps get you home.

Specifications

Veritas Tactical VT-16 Executive

Veritas Tactical VT-16 556 AR pistol review survival gun rifle caliber pdw 7

Caliber
5.56 NATO

Barrel Length
4.5 inches

OAL
22.5 inches (extended)
15 inches (folded)

Magazine Capacity
30 rounds

MSRP
$1,600

URL
www.veritastactical.com

Accessories
Holosun 515GT Red Dot optic

Price as Tested
$2,500

More From Issue 29

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 30

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Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Advanced Ax Skills

We’ll go out on a limb here and say the extent of most people’s ax education is probably a talk about the “safety circle” and a warning not to cut in the direction of anything you don’t want to cut off, like your leg. Just about everyone who has received some sort of formal education on using a hatchet or ax has heard about the “safety circle” — as long as you’re still using an ax, you probably still have all the body parts you started with. We get it; you’re not supposed to use an ax if you don’t have a safe place to swing it, and no one wants to get cut. It’s good advice. Unfortunately, too many people fear what the ax can do, and their lack of ax training and knowledge of the tool limit their ability.

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For many ax owners, the extent of their skill is splitting pre-cut campfire wood on a picnic bench at a private campground or hacking away at branches within reach. What we’ll show you are real skills that go beyond the “don’t cut yourself or anyone else” talk. If you aren’t comfortable with that, hold that ax at full extension, draw a circle in all directions, and practice that first. If you’re ready to see old-school skill, follow along as we show you some advanced techniques that can save your ass — or at least make your time in the backwoods a little easier.

Felling

Everyone wants to cut a tree down at some point. It’s almost an unwritten rule and rite of passage. Felling has practical purposes, including removing hazardous trees or clearing an area for a camp and accessing larger wood for fuel or building materials. To cut trees down, aka “felling,” you can’t just hack away at a standing tree. Some serious considerations and skill go into learning the nuances of it. Mistakes can be forgiven with smaller saplings, but apply the same sloppy technique to larger trees and you’ll be in a world of hurt.

Whenever you approach a tree you plan to fell, assess it first. Look all around to see if there are any dead or hung-up (widowmaker) branches hanging overhead. Many times, these dead branches will fall after getting rattled free with the first ax cut. This is why we recommend first using your hands to push against a tree while looking up. If part of it starts to break off, get your ass out of the way if it falls.

In your assessment, look for the pathway the tree will take when it falls; it should be clear. Trust us, it’s much more rewarding to watch a tree fall cleanly to the ground than get hung up on another tree that acts like a crutch. Part of your felling assessment should include thinking about the job after the tree falls. Ask yourself if you can drop a tree closer to camp and if you’ll be able to process it easily.

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Above: When felling a tree, make sure to anticipate which direction the tree will fall and be mindful of branches that may fall on you in the process. 

When you’re ready to cut that tree down, start with a good front cut on the same side in the direction the tree will fall. This front cut will serve as a hinge and prevent “barber chairing” when a tree will actually kick back as it breaks. On a large tree, this could kill you. To front cut, a 45-degree diagonal cut is made into a tree. On a large tree with the potential to hurt you as it falls, cut halfway through diagonally down and slightly diagonally across.

If someone tells you to cut horizontally across, they’re used to dropping trees with a chainsaw. In general, a good diagonal cut against the grain of wood will shear it instead of compress it like a cut made perpendicular to the wood. Once you have a good front cut, you can move to the other side and proceed to back cut. Another simple way of felling a tree is to cut four 90-degree angles around a tree. This works well with trees smaller in diameter than your ax head. Whichever way you choose, when it’s ready to fall, go ahead and yell, “timber” if you want, but get out of the way when it starts to move.

Limbing

If you want to process a tree you just dropped or some branches on a dead tree you’ve come across, the skill you need is limbing. Working from the bottom of the tree to the top, cuts are made to the underside of branches. Use caution when cutting pines and other resinous woods if the tree is extremely dry. Resin collects at the joints of branches and trunk and will harden to a point where it’ll actually damage some edges when struck. Hardened pine resin is the reason why seasoned axmen will cut around knots instead of through them.

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Above: To avoid striking through to the ground, the log you’re working with can be propped up on a stump and against an adjacent standing tree.  

When limbing, use a “golf swing” and keep the trunk of the tree between you and the ax head. Depending on the size of the tree you’re working with, either roll it over to access the branches on the other side and continue swinging in the same direction or switch hands if you’re competent working in more than one direction. Just make sure that if you’re limbing a tree on a hillside, you stay on the uphill side of the trunk. The remaining branches on the tree might be the kickstand preventing it from rolling downhill. A relatively small tree rolling in your direction can be forgiven, but a larger tree will hurt or kill you.

Bucking and Splitting

After every good storm, news reporters love to make reference to trees blocking roadways. It doesn’t take a very large tree to stop most traffic. It’s easy to clear with a good ax — the process of bucking, or cutting a tree into logs, can be done while standing next to the log or on top of it. We suggest you avoid mimicking the Stihl Lumberjack Challenge underhand buck competition until you burn some good reps bucking while standing next to the log first.

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Above: Without a chopping block, you’ll have to improvise. You can safely swing between your legs with a wide enough base and a clear follow-through. 

When using an ax to buck a log, think of chopping in thirds. That is, you want to cut the log three times, furthest from you, nearest you, and connecting the two in the middle, before you change your angle. Keep your cuts at about 45 degrees to prevent compressing the wood with too steep or too shallow of an angle that will cause your ax to glance. Make sure the kerf, the width of your cut, is at least as wide as the tree is thick around.

After you buck your tree into logs, you’ll notice your ax didn’t create any flat surfaces to stand up on for splitting the logs into pieces. Most beginners have no trouble learning how to split logs with flat surfaces. Splitting ax-bucked logs requires more skill to either exploit natural cracks in the wood grain with wooden wedges or to split the logs where they lay in different ways. For some logs, this will mean propping the log up on another log with the side lifted up to face you.

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Above: Bucking is the process of cutting through logs to create smaller lengths. Divide the log into thirds on each side of the kerf. This is how a smaller ax can be used to effectively process a thicker log. 

A strong vertical chop will split the log and the log it’s propped up on serves as a stop to your ax blade. An axman can also swing horizontally at the bucked logs and split them this way. If this is the preferred way, the logs should be positioned far enough away where they can still be reached with the ax, but a glance won’t cause the ax to cut into the axman’s leg. The safest way to split is to use a wooden baton on the pole of your ax. This can be done with the grain from either the end or the side of the log.

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Above: Your kerf, the cutting channel you’re working on, should be as wide as your log is thick. This will prevent binding. 

Creating Flats (Hewing Logs)

There may be a time or situation in an extended camp or overland trip when you’ll need to process round logs into squares. You may need to construct a more permanent camp in the woods with benches and walkways or a bridge to cross a gap. In both of these circumstances, flat surfaces are more comfortable to sit on and better for tires to roll across. Hewing logs is an advanced skill, but it isn’t a complicated process.

Much like the method one would use to buck up a log, the axman uses his ax to score a log along its length. If you had a saw, you could mark the clean-cut end with a square to use as your beam’s dimensions as you hew it. Without a saw, you need to eyeball the log from different angles to ensure it ends up square. The scoring cuts should be a uniform depth, or very close to it, for the flattest and straightest surface. Once the entire length of the log is prepped with these marks, the axman works from one end of the log, cutting away the remaining outer bark and wood along the same depth as the multiple scores until he reaches the end of the log. The flat surface created can be repeated to make square beams, and these are more easily joined with other flat beams in construction.

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Above: Hewing is the process of turning round logs into square beams. Using your ax, first start by creating scoring cuts along one side. Remove the remaining material between the scores to create a flat. Repeat the process until a 90-degree angle is made. Repeat again and again to create a square beam. 

Ax Habits

Lack of skill is a dead giveaway for ax inexperience; a shortage of good habits is another. If we are what we repeatedly do, we want to instill good ax habits in our routine. Rather than cutting any wood that you might find, learning which woods work the best for each application will save time and energy. Good hardwoods work well for producing the most BTUs, and certain softwoods are better suited for semi-permanent shelter building for insect resistance.

A good axman will know which wood is most seasoned and which wood is too punky and decomposing. In adverse weather, an axman should know to coat his blade with a protectant like linseed oil that leaves a clear coat on the blade and protects it from rust. He also knows how steel is affected by the extreme cold and will warm the blade slightly by a fire before use. He also knows not to heat it to excess, as that will take the temper out of the blade. Any good axman should also have a maintenance kit that includes files, a sharpening puck, and the other tools needed for handle repair and replacement. In this respect, what you carry speaks to your experience and knowledge of what could happen.

Advanced skills are acquired with plenty of time and a lot of elbow grease. Learn to use your gear, and it’ll take care of you, whether you’re casually camping in the forest or addressing your survival needs in the deep backwoods.

Ax Handle Replacement

Broken ax that has made its last job.

Broken ax that has made its last job.

If you use an ax long enough, chances are that you’ll need to replace a handle. The process is pretty easy in your garage with power tools, but what happens when you’re in the field? Misjudge your distance, accidentally strike the handle, and you may have a problem. How do you remove a wooden handle from the ax head? Follow these steps:

Replacement Handle: We highly suggest carving a replacement handle before you attempt to remove the existing broken handle. You may still be able to use what’s left of the broken handle as a stubby handle to cut your new handle with. When you find a suitable piece of wood to carve the replacement handle from, reassemble the broken handle to the best of your ability and use it as a stencil before carving.

Remove the Old Handle: When you have a rough new handle, it’s time to burn out the old one. Gather firewood and locate a safe place to build a ground fire. Wet the ground sufficiently before you start. This will help keep the ax edge cooler than dry ground. Bury the head in the wet soil and leave the wooden handle exposed. Light a fire and burn out the old head. It doesn’t need to burn to ash completely; sometimes, when it’s charred, the tolerances will give and it’ll push out with a dowel or log baton.

Fit the New Handle: This process can be done with a Swiss Army Knife equipped with a saw or with specialized gear like a rasp and a small folding saw. Fitting, aka “hanging,” an ax head on a new handle takes patience and time. Once you’re able to pass the new ax handle through the eye with some force, split the ax handle in line with the edge of the ax head with your saw. Use a wooden wedge carved from a good piece of hardwood to friction fit the handle in place. If the ax handle is properly hung, you won’t need to crack the wood grain with supplemental metal wedges.

Field-Ready Finish: Once your ax is handled, take the time to clean it up to make it more comfortable for use. Smooth it out by removing any knots or hot spots in the wood. If properly done, this handle will last you the duration of your trip.

Interview with Liam Hoffman

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Liam Hoffman of Hoffman Blacksmithing is one of the most in-demand blacksmiths in the country. Hoffman, 22, was the youngest champion of History Channel’s Forged in Fire when he was only 19. We asked him some questions readers surely would want answers to.

What are the top three tips you can give ax owners in regards to their use?
Always study the area in which you are about to use the ax. Clear it of tripping hazards or objects in the ax’s path. Examine what you are about to cut, and predict where the tree or log may fall after it is cut. Logging is a very dangerous profession! Don’t be afraid to get it dirty.

What are the top three tips you can give ax owners in regards to maintenance?
Carrying a small sharpening puck in the field with your ax is a convenient way to make a quick touch up on the edge. Regular and consistent maintenance is best. Oil the handle at least once a year, especially if it goes through a dramatic climate change. Wood is a natural material and can be subject to expanding and contracting. The best way to prevent rust and deterioration is using the tool regularly!

Hoffmanblacksmithing.com

About the Author

Kevin Estela has been a professional survival instructor since 2007, first at the Wilderness Learning Center as lead instructor and then with his own company, Estela Wilderness Education. Kevin is a ranked associate level instructor in Sayoc Kali, a purple belt in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu under Sifu Chris Smith, and an avid firearms marksman and shooter. When not teaching outdoor skills, he’s a full-time high school history teacher and founder of the Estela Wilderness Education Fund. Follow him on Instagram/Twitter @Estelawilded or www.facebook.com/estelawildernesseducation


Eating a 1981 Mountain House Freeze-Dried Meal

You’ve probably heard that freeze-dried meals can last for decades as long as they remain sealed in a cool, dry environment. But have you ever wondered what it’d be like to travel 35 years into the future and see exactly how well these dehydrated meals stand the test of time? The iron-stomached YouTuber Steve1989MREInfo set out to answer this question. He got his hands on a Mountain House civilian MRE that was produced in 1981, opened it up, and sampled the contents.

You’ll find Mountain House freeze-dried meals in most camping/hunting/outdoor stores today, but you might not know that the company has been producing meals like these for more than 50 years. Mountain House has been supplying the U.S. Armed Forces with meals since the Vietnam War, and began offering similar meals to civilians in 1969.

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The meal in the following video came in a plain bag labeled as “Meal 6 – Chicken Stew”. It contains the following items:

  • Freeze-dried chicken stew (2 servings)
  • Pilot bread crackers
  • Fig Newton cookies
  • Lemonade powder
  • Cocoa powder
  • Salt, pepper, a napkin, and a spoon

We’re frankly impressed that everything in this ration has held up so well despite its age. It’s one thing to hear Mountain House guarantee that its meals will remain fresh for 30 years, and another thing to see actual proof. That’s a good sign for those of us who’ve been stockpiling freeze-dried meals for emergencies.


Looking Back: Trucks, SUVs, and Jeeps of SEMA 2018

Earlier this month, we traveled to Las Vegas to join the annual pilgrimage of car and truck enthusiasts to the SEMA Show. This massive event is organized by the Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association (SEMA), and claims the title of the world’s largest automotive trade show. In simple terms, it’s a gathering of thousands of the most elaborate custom vehicles you can imagine. Just about every car and truck manufacturer has a large booth at the show, along with countless smaller booths for companies that offer parts and accessories.

This industry-only show is not open to the public, so you’ll need to work in the industry or have approved media credentials to get in the door.  The good news is that we fall into the latter category, so we walked throughout the show snapping photos of the coolest — and strangest — trucks, SUVs, Jeeps, and other off-road or adventure vehicles we saw. Today, we present a mega-gallery of more than 200 photos from SEMA 2018. Slow internet connections be warned, this article is image-heavy.

Jeep

When it comes to off-roading, Jeep is one of the first names that comes to mind, and for good reason. Aside from the brand’s decades of pedigree in combat zones and rugged environments around the world, Jeep has produced many models with great built-in off-roading capacity and incredible aftermarket support. You might say the Jeep Wrangler is like the AR-15 of the automotive world — a capable platform that can be upgraded, modified, and rebuilt in countless ways. Below, we’ll share a selection we saw at SEMA 2018.

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The following two new-body-style Wranglers from the American Expedition Vehicles booth were some of our favorites at the show as a result of their simple and functional design.

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This survival-oriented build from 5.11 Tactical is known as the All Missions Vehicle (AMV). It features a supercharged engine, on-board solar panels with battery storage, and even a refrigerator. Check out this video for more info on the build.

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There were plenty of classic Jeeps, too. Here’s a small selection of those we spotted:

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Toyota

With a reputation for bulletproof reliability, simplicity, and easy maintenance, Toyota trucks are also hugely popular in the off-roading and adventure vehicle community. This popularity was reflected at SEMA with dozens of Toyota trucks and SUVs, both old and new.

One of our favorite trucks at the show was this Quicksand tan Tacoma found in the Injen booth.

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The Toyota Hilux, a sibling to the Tacoma, is not available in the United States. However, that didn’t stop a few manufacturers from bringing them to the show to display parts for the European, Middle-Eastern, Asian, and South-American markets.

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In addition to these mid-size models, there were also plenty of full-size Tundras, as well as 4Runner and Land Cruiser SUVs.

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This kitted-out Land Cruiser in the Icon Vehicle Dynamics booth definitely caught our eye. You can learn more about this cool build here.

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We certainly appreciate late-model Toyotas, but it’s always cool to see some old-school builds as well:

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Ford

There was a very respectable showing of Ford trucks at SEMA 2018, with the F-150/Raptor, and Super Duty lines remaining popular as ever. The mud-splattered F-250 below was featured in the official Ford booth, and looks like it’d make a great overland or bug-out truck.

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We also saw quite a few of the 2019 Ford Ranger pickups, which are finally making a long-overdue comeback to the U.S. market to compete with the Toyota Tacoma and Chevy Colorado. No matter your preference, competition breeds innovation, so it’s a good time to be shopping for a new mid-size truck.

This “Ranger X” from the Ford booth had a cool setup, including a toolbox bed, spare tire carrier, and fabricated winch bumper.

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Chevrolet

For fans of the Bow Tie, there were many mid-size and full-size trucks to look at. The Colorado seemed to be the most popular Chevy truck platform at this year’s show, but there was no shortage of Silverados (both gas and diesel-powered variants).

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Dodge / Ram

Ram trucks were slightly less plentiful than the other brands, but this relative lack of quantity was made up for by an impressive level of build quality. There were several Rams and older Dodge models we’d love to take out for a weekend on the trail.

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It wouldn’t be SEMA without some oddball builds, so here’s a purple and yellow Challenger riding on a set of oversized mud tires.

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Side-By-Sides & Other Vehicles

One other brand that deserves an honorable mention is Honda. You might associate the company with economical commuter cars rather than off-roaders, but Honda surprised us with this one-of-a-kind Rugged Open Air Vehicle Concept. It’s powered by a 3.5L V6 motor and features 4-wheel-drive, 33-inch tires, and a weatherproofed interior. You can read more about the Rugged Open Air Vehicle on HondaNews.com.

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Side-by-sides and UTVs are always popular, so we saw quite a few of them throughout the Las Vegas Convention Center.

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We’ll bring our gallery to a close with some of the builds that didn’t fit anywhere else, including this insane Mercedes Sprinter van designed for traversing arctic terrain.

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Disaster Insurance: Hedging Your Bets for SHTF

Disclaimer: No attorney-client relationship is created by the use of the information in this publication. The general information described and materials provided are for illustration and/or informational purposes only, and do not, nor are they intended, to provide legal and/or financial advice. The reader should consult with an appropriate professional in their particular jurisdiction regarding their individual situation. Any use of the general information contained in this article shall be solely at the reader’s risk.

In 2017, three major hurricanes affected the U.S. — Harvey, in Texas; Irma, in Florida; and Maria in Puerto Rico. Recently, we’ve seen the devastation of Hurricane Michael, and it’s only a matter of time before certain areas are battered by another such disaster. In the aftermath of these storms, many of the victims discovered that they were either underinsured or simply didn’t have the proper insurance coverage — and would soon be facing enormous out-of-pocket reconstruction costs. This was a very loud wake-up call.

We see it all the time. Every year, many people are driven to financial ruin because they incorrectly assumed that the insurance they had would adequately cover the damages caused by a natural or man-made disaster. To their shock and horror, people often don’t find out that they’re underinsured, or completely uninsured, until it’s too late. Although many have insurance, the coverage limits are sometimes insufficient, or they simply lack the appropriate type of coverage. Some people also forget that not all disasters are natural; man-made ones can be just as devastating, sometimes even more so.

In this article, we take a summary look at some of the types of insurance available to protect you and your family, and we also explore some of the many pitfalls awaiting the unwary.

Homeowner’s Insurance

For many, their home is probably their most valuable investment. Having homeowner’s insurance is one way that people protect their investment against common perils and hazards. It provides coverage for your home, compensating you in the event of a loss. In other words, if your home is damaged, destroyed, or otherwise affected by an event that’s covered by your policy, homeowner’s insurance will help you repair or rebuild your home. It may also help replace personal property that’s lost or damaged. The amount of compensation you receive for any given claim depends on the limits set for your policy, the type of damage, and how it was caused.

A typical homeowner’s policy will often include the following areas of coverage:

  • Hazard: Insures the structure of the home against covered perils.
  • Personal Property: Insures personal belongings against covered perils.
  • Liability: Insures against claims/lawsuits for personal injury.
  • Living Expenses: Provides compensation for alternative living arrangements while your home is repaired or rebuilt.

But as it turns out, homeowner’s insurance is usually something people don’t think about until they come face-to-face with a major loss. Having the appropriate insurance coverage can often mean the difference between being able to recover from a disaster and suffering a catastrophic loss from which you may never recover. Yet, every year far too many homeowners find themselves without the proper coverage when faced with a catastrophic loss.

The type of coverage, and how much you buy, will largely dictate the cost of the insurance. Other factors can also affect the cost of your premium, including where you live, how many claims you have filed in the past, and sometimes even your credit score.

Note: All insurance coverage isn’t the same. Make sure to confirm what you’re buying, and how much it’ll cost. Depending on the coverage and total overall limits, the cost of insurance can vary widely. Also, make sure that you understand the effective date of your policy. A typical homeowner’s insurance policy can have a 30- to 90-day waiting period. Insurance companies do this to reduce fraudulent claims and to prevent homeowners from waiting for a severe weather event before they purchase coverage. As with just about everything else, make sure to read the fine print.

Catastrophe Insurance

There are many different types of catastrophe insurance for businesses and individuals, but, in general, it covers those high-dollar events that are normally excluded from standard hazard insurance policies. (For example, most homeowner’s policies exclude earthquakes and floods.)

High winds can often take down some very large trees, which in turn can cause extensive property damage.

High winds can often take down some very large trees, which in turn can cause extensive property damage.

Catastrophe insurance is meant to protect against unusually severe natural disasters — earthquakes, floods, severe storms — as well as man-made events such as terrorism and civil disorder. This is why it’s important to read your policy, confirm what’s covered, and more importantly, what isn’t. Once you’ve identified the gaps you can begin the process of getting additional layers of supplemental coverage, such as catastrophe insurance.

If all this sounds somewhat complicated, it can be. There’s no substitute, however, for doing the appropriate research and identifying both the potential risks and how you plan to protect yourself against those risks. The coverage you eventually purchase will, in many situations, be largely driven by the area in which you live, the value of your property, and your financial ability to recover from a significant loss.

Flood Insurance

Flooding is one of the most common disasters affecting the U.S. Floods have many causes, including storms, snowmelt, overflowing rivers and streams, and broken dams or levees. All floods have one thing in common — they can be financially devastating, and most homeowner’s and renter’s insurance policies don’t cover flood damage. Whether you’re in a flood zone or not, if you don’t have flood insurance, you may be one disaster away from financial ruin.

The federal government runs the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) issuing flood insurance policies through thousands of insurance agents nationwide. The NFIP is part of the Federal Emergency Management Agency, better known as FEMA. Flood insurance typically covers damage to your home and personal property from floods and other flood-related losses due to rising waters. Buying flood insurance is easy and relatively inexpensive. Coverage is currently capped at $250,000 per house and $100,000 for contents, but additional coverage can be purchased from private insurers.

Whether you’re in a flood zone or not, flood insurance shouldn’t be overlooked. As with other types of coverage, there are steps you can take to reduce the cost of flood insurance. Visit www.floodsmart.gov for more information.

Liability Umbrella

Liability umbrella policies are an additional way to bolster your coverage level and are typically available in multi-million dollar increments.

Liability umbrella policies are an additional way to bolster your coverage level and are typically available in...

Disasters come in all shapes and sizes. Imagine that you have a car accident and get sued, or that someone is severely injured on your property and they make a claim against you. In the event of a substantial claim, would your current policy limits be sufficient to protect you and your family from financial ruin?

Umbrella insurance provides additional liability coverage above and beyond the coverage limits of your homeowner’s, auto, and other such policies. The main purpose of an umbrella policy is to protect you from a large and potentially devastating liability claim or judgment. Umbrella policies are usually available in million-dollar increments. While not required, an umbrella policy offers increased protection and peace of mind.

While the cost of an umbrella policy represents an additional insurance expense, it may be money well spent if you ever find yourself on the wrong end of a bodily/personal injury or property damage claim. As with all forms of insurance coverage, it’s up to you to weigh the costs versus the benefits.

Note: Umbrella policies generally won’t cover losses related to your business or damages to your own property/personal belongings, and they won’t protect you from the consequences of your own intentional or illegal behavior.

Renter’s Insurance

Just because you don’t own a home doesn’t mean you should be uninsured. Renter’s insurance provides coverage for damage, theft, or loss of personal property. It can also provide liability coverage for injuries to others that might occur on the rented premises. Although renter’s insurance is less common than homeowner’s insurance, and it’s usually not required, it can often be the only thing standing between a tenant and financial ruin.

Many people are surprised to learn that damages to personal property, and claims against them for injuries from others, will not be covered by the landlord’s policy. As with other types of coverage, the cost of renter’s insurance will vary according to the amount of coverage, the deductibles, and how comprehensive the policy is. The more coverage you sign up for, the higher the cost.

Reducing Insurance Costs

In many areas of the country, the cost of homeowner’s insurance has skyrocketed in recent years. This is especially true in regions that have been hammered by hurricanes and other large-scale natural disasters. In some areas of the southeast, for example, many insurers have (1) significantly raised their rates and the corresponding deductibles; (2) stopped writing new policies; or (3) left the state altogether. For many homeowners, this is a major problem since not having coverage is usually not an option.

There are a number of ways to get a break on the cost of your coverage. The best way is to discuss all potential discounts with your agent or insurance company representative before signing up for the coverage. It also pays to shop around since rates and discounts can vary widely among insurers. In general, however, racking up significant discounts isn’t as difficult as many people think. Here are some of the different ways you can save big on your coverage.

Wind Mitigation Inspection: A wind mitigation inspection evaluates a structure’s ability to withstand high winds. The inspector (usually a board-certified contractor, architect, or engineer) will look at the roof, wall construction, opening protection, and other key categories to evaluate the wind-mitigating characteristics of your home, and they’ll also make recommendations for improvement. Although not required, a wind mitigation inspection can save you money and also alert you to any areas needing improvement.

Harden Your Home: Take steps to make your home more resistant to storms and other natural disasters. Consider installing storm shutters, reinforcing your roof, and modernizing the home’s mechanical systems. Not only will you save money, but you’ll likely be safer and more secure. Ask your insurance agent/representative for other steps you can take to lower your premiums.

When shopping for insurance, request representatives with at least 10 years of experience and make sure you’re satisfied with the answers to your questions before signing on the dotted line.

When shopping for insurance, request representatives with at least 10 years of experience and make sure you’re...

Shop Around: Insurance costs can vary widely, even within the same area and for essentially the same coverage. It may take some time, but you can save big. The National Association of Insurance Commissioners (www.naic.org) provides information for insurers in your state. You can also check with friends, relatives, and neighbors; don’t forget to contact your local insurance agent too as they can help look for the best coverage at the most affordable price. Lastly, price is definitely important, but so is quality. Make sure to check on the financial stability of the companies you’re considering.

Discounts: Ask what discounts are available. Some companies will offer you substantial savings if you have multiple policies with them. You can also get discounts for improving home security. Installing fire and burglar alarms, smoke detectors, sprinkler systems, and dead-bolt locks, for example, may get you a hefty discount.

Good Credit Score: Maintaining a good credit history may actually help you save on insurance costs. More and more insurers are looking at your credit when they price your policy. This is yet one more reason to periodically review your credit report. You can get a free copy of your credit report at www.annualcreditreport.com for all three reporting agencies (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion) once every 12 months.

Filing an Insurance Claim – Where to Start

Insurance claim form

The “disaster” (fill in the catastrophe of choice) caused a lot of damage, but thankfully you and your family are safe. Now starts the recovery and reconstruction stage. You’ll want to take immediate steps to not only mitigate your losses, but also to document your damages as completely as possible. Here are some tips, ideas, and suggestions to help get you started.

Contact Your Insurance Company and File a Claim: This may seem obvious, but surprisingly many people wait far too long to start this process. Before you call your insurer, make sure to have all the necessary information on hand. If possible, write it all down ahead of time. Before hanging up with your insurer, make sure to get a claim number and the name and phone number of the person you spoke with. Also get the contact information for the adjuster who will be handling your claim. Provide the insurance company with your updated contact information, including a temporary address, email, and phone number where they can reach you.

Document the Damage: To the extent possible, you should take photographs and video of all the damage. Start at one end of you property and carefully document everything. Take as many photographs as possible, including shots from multiple angles, with wider shots showing the damage to the front, sides, and backyard. Do the very best that you can to describe the damage accurately and completely. Take copious notes. If possible, take a video recording of the entire property.

Photographically documenting any damage your property may have incurred will better your odds of getting a settlement sufficient to cover the damage you’ve incurred.

Photographically documenting any damage your property may have incurred will better your odds of getting a settlement...

Mitigate the Damage: Many insurance policies require you to take steps to mitigate or prevent further damage to your property. This means that you may be responsible if you failed to take reasonable steps to safeguard and protect your property from further loss/damage. What this actually means will vary widely depending on the circumstances. Just make sure to completely document all the damages before you start making even temporary repairs or cleaning up.

Mark Your House: Take a moment to spray paint your house number, street name, and the insurance company name on the front of your property. Remember street signs and house numbers may be damaged or missing altogether after a major event. Marking your house will make it easier for the insurance company representatives and adjusters to find your house.

Inventory Personal Property: Aside from taking photographs and video, it’s also a good idea to make a list of all personal property that was lost or damaged. If you have receipts that’s even better. If not, do the best you can to verify the value.

Start a Journal/File: This is one of those things that just makes sense. Immediately start a notebook and file to document your claim and all communication with the insurance company. After each contact make an entry with the date, time, and name and contact information of the person you spoke with. Also try to summarize the content of the conversation as best you can. Don’t try to rely on your recollection of details or events — write it down and be as descriptive as possible.

Save all Receipts: Make sure to keep copies of all receipts for temporary housing and other living expenses. Insurance policy coverage and limits vary, but keep all receipts and submit them to the insurance company for reimbursement.

Independent Public Adjuster: After a major disaster, insurance companies may receive tens of thousands of claims in a very short period of time. Addressing all these claims will require an army of insurance adjusters. Many of these adjusters will have a tremendous workload, under tight time constrains to get the claims processed. Hiring an independent, public adjuster may help speed up the process and ensure you receive a fair amount for your claim.

File a Flood Insurance Claim: Many homeowners have several different kinds of coverage, including an additional policy for flood insurance. Don’t assume you don’t have coverage, and don’t assume which policy will pay for any specific damages. Promptly file your claims with all the insurers.

Take steps to mitigate any damage with inspections ahead of time to reduce your costs and prove you’ve done your due diligence to make your property safer.

Take steps to mitigate any damage with inspections ahead of time to reduce your costs and prove you’ve done your due...

File an Automobile Insurance Claim: Once again, document all the damage with photographs and video, file your claim, mitigate your damages, and keep a log of all contact with the insurance company, including claim numbers and the name and contact information for all personnel you speak with.

File a Claim for Lost or Damaged Firearms: Guns are sometimes covered under standard homeowner’s policies, but there are usually serious limitations. As such, many gun owners obtain additional coverage under separate policies. Make sure to promptly file a claim under any additional policies, and record all the particulars of the claim.

Other Options: If you find that you’re either uninsured or underinsured for your losses, you may still have other options. You should immediately contact the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA at www.disasterassistance.gov) to inquire if you qualify for grants or low-interest loans for recovery and reconstruction, emergency housing, repairs, or other storm-related expenses.

Legal Advice: Whether it’s a denied claim, or you’re just not satisfied with the amount the insurance company is offering, you should consult an attorney specializing in insurance law before making any major decisions or signing any documents. Make sure to keep copies of all correspondence with your insurance company and any documentation you may have regarding your losses. A professional can evaluate your claim, review your policy, and ensure that you get a fair payment for your claim.

Conclusion

Whether it’s a natural or man-made disaster, house fire, burglary, or some other unfortunate event, you need to take reasonable precautions to protect yourself, your family, and your property. You don’t have to live along a major geological fault line or in an area frequently hit by flooding, tornadoes, or severe storms to have a plan and make preparations.

Disasters usually appear with little or no warning. And while living with risk is an inescapable part of life, you should always try to minimize and mitigate that risk. Insurance, however, steps in when all else fails. The best time to analyze your insurance needs and to secure the proper coverage is before you need it. Once the disaster is at your front door, it’s too late to do anything other than take cover and hope for the best.

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Understanding what coverage you have, and more importantly what coverage you may need, is one of the best ways to get started. Now is the time to calmly sit down and review your situation, examine your options, and make prudent decisions. Hopefully, you’ll never need to use your insurance coverage, but as with all your other preparations, having them significantly improves your situation no matter what calamity comes your way.

Regardless of where you may live, or what risks you may face, having the appropriate insurance coverage can take your preparations to a higher level and protect you against severe economic loss. Stay safe and be prepared.

About the Author

Richard Duarte is a practicing attorney, urban survival consultant, writer, and firearms enthusiast. He’s the author of Surviving Doomsday: A Guide for Surviving an Urban Disaster, and The Quick Start Guide for Urban Preparedness. www.quickstartsurvival.com

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What If Your Flight is Hijacked by Terrorists?

Illustrations by Joe Oesterle

As a frequent flyer, you’d heard your fair share of commotions on airplanes. From fighting couples to drunken passengers — the cramped cabin of a crowded airplane was hardly a quiet place, even when most of your fellow travelers were being respectful. Yes, you’d been on noisy flights before, but this ruckus was different.

In the way that a parent can distinguish a child’s cry of pain from a howl of frustration, these raised voices conveyed alarm to you. Turning to your spouse, you asked, “Honey, are you hearing this?” She looked up from her book and turned a bit to listen. A moment later, a woman’s piercing scream tore through the low murmur of conversations in coach. It came from the front of the plane, behind the first-class curtain. You started to stand up in your seat, but your spouse pulled you back down. That was a good thing.

A loud and deep man’s voice boomed just behind you. “Stay in seats! We take this plane now!” Craning your neck to see over the seatback, you saw two men in ski masks, holding a terrified flight attendant. The speaker shouted again, so all could hear “You stay in seats or we blow up plane!”

For this installment of RECOIL OFFGRID’s What If? column, the editors have placed us in an airline hijacking scenario that pushes the boundaries of preparedness. And while this scenario is a painful reminder of the life-altering events of Sept. 11, it’s also a valuable teaching opportunity. Here we’ll share some potential strategies to fight back against fanatical hijackers, and we’ll discuss some of the preparations and strategies that you might need to employ, should you find yourself in such a dire situation. Most of us will never forget Sept. 11, and we should never forget that this kind of crisis can still happen, despite all of the advancements in airline security. You never know when one person may make all the difference.

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The Scenario

Situation type
Airliner hijacking

Your Crew
You and your spouse, airline crew, and approximately 200 other passengers

Location
During flight from Boston to Los Angeles aboard a Boeing 737

Season
Winter, late December

Weather
Clear; high 47 degrees F, low 31 degrees F

The Setup: You and your spouse are en route from Boston to Los Angeles to visit family for the holidays. Since two of the aircraft that were hijacked on Sept. 11 originated at Logan International Airport, security here is taken very seriously. As you prepare to board your flight, you feel confident that these protocols would prevent another such attack from happening at this airport. After the two of you take your seats, a well-dressed, middle-aged man sits down in your row’s third seat and nods hello. The flight gets underway without incident.

The Complication: About halfway through your roughly six-hour flight, the mood is still and quiet. Suddenly there’s yelling and commotion in the first-class section of the cabin. Initially, given all the cell phone videos posted on the internet of rowdy passengers, you think someone may just have had a little too much to drink. The commotion and arguing escalates, and you now hear screaming. People start to rise from their seats to see what’s happening.

Suddenly, from the rear of the cabin, you hear a shout and two men start addressing the passengers in broken English to remain seated or they’ll detonate a bomb on the plane. The two men are wearing ski masks, and one of them has a knife to a flight attendant’s throat. The men start yelling at the passengers to stay seated or they’ll be killed. The other man starts moving forward toward the cockpit with what appears to be a large, non-ferrous knife, while the first man remains in the rear holding the flight attendant as his hostage.
You’re clearly in a hijacking situation. You also feel that the plane may be descending and deviating from its previous course.

Former Federal Officer: Hana Bilodeau’s Approach

We just reached the anniversary of one of the most devastating terrorist attacks on American soil. You often hear individuals preach “never forget,” but I have to ask, are you living and preparing as if you’ll “never forget?” We need only to remember back 17 years to find evidence that evil is present and terrorism exists.

As Americans it’s our duty not only to never forget the lives lost but to also combat evil in the future. Preparation, and the wherewithal to survive, is a mental and physical exercise. Having worked previously in state and federal law enforcement, I understand all too clearly that crime can happen anywhere — even at 37,000 feet off the ground.

Being locked inside a flying metal tube with complete strangers doesn’t provide me with a high level of comfort. Knowing whether there’s a potential hijacker on the plane or not is inconsequential; there’s always a potential risk. When I prep for travel, I ask myself, “What if my airliner was hijacked?”

What if airplane terrorist attack hijacking scenario survival shtf emergency 4

Pre-Prepping
I’m a planner by nature; checking a calendar and making a to-do list is a daily ritual. So when planning travel I like to schedule accordingly and do so well in advance. During holiday travel, the airports tend to be a bit busier, security parameters are a bit tighter, and flights are usually sold out if not over-sold. Because of this somewhat unpredictable combination of elements, I purchase my tickets well in advance, and I always pay extra to board early (more on that later). I’ve learned by doing this that flights typically cost less, and I have the luxury of being able to pick where I’d like to sit. Like any individual suffering from a touch of OCD, travel during the holidays comes with a fair amount of anxiety, so prepping really matters.

To-Do
Carefully review the available flights and airlines for your destination. Typically the plane used to travel from Boston to Los Angeles is a Boeing 737 — this is important because you can easily learn the layout of the plane. On a Boeing 737, there are typically 33 rows, with exit rows at row number 17. There are galleys in the front and rear of the aircraft, two restrooms in the rear of the plane, and one additional restroom just outside the cockpit. I prefer to sit somewhere in row 15 to 20, giving me a good vantage point. I’m a curious person by nature, and this location provides me with the best overall visibility of the entire plane, without cornering me in one position. When traveling with my significant other, I always book a middle seat and an aisle seat, or two aisle seats next to each other. This allows for easy movement and visibility, as well as the flexibility to get up if needed and access to the front or rear of the plane.

To Pack
When traveling, my carry-on bag is always a backpack because it allows my hands to be free, with easy movement when I’m entering and exiting the plane, and while walking through a crowded airport. Inside my backpack, I utilize the laptop pouch to secure a Defender level IIIA plate that can be carried through security. This plate is designed for a backpack and weighs just 1.3 pounds. It can help protect you from fragmentation, edged weapons, and physical strikes. Easily accessible inside my backpack, I have an amenity kit containing a flashlight, batteries, large zip ties, duct tape, a couple sturdy ballpoint pens, tourniquet, hemostatic-combat gauze, pressure bandages, and socks — I always have socks in my bag so I never have to touch my bare feet on the airport floor when going through security, and they can also be used as a blunt striking agent when filled with change or batteries.

On Site
I like to arrive to the gate area of my departing plane early. This allows me to watch and evaluate the other passengers I’m going to be locked on a plane with for several hours. During this time, I look for other passengers who appear to be physically able to defend themselves if necessary. Personal attributes I note: 1) haircut: a high and tight suggests that the passenger may have been former military or law enforcement, 2) physical stature: a larger male or someone who appears to be physically fit and wears clothing advertising martial arts, CrossFit, military, or law enforcement entities could be a potential ally in a hijacking situation. Once located, I mentally document the passengers who might be able to assist me in a crisis if needed. This is precisely the reason I always pay the extra money to board a plane early — so I can find my seat, get situated, and watch the other passengers I’ve identified as they board, mentally noting where they sit, in case their assistance is needed.

In this scenario, I’m traveling with my spouse, so we also maintain our awareness as other passengers are boarding and watch their behaviors as they enter the aircraft. Once we locate our seats, I take the middle seat and he takes the aisle seat. I push the armrest to the rear and undo my seatbelt when safe, to prohibit obstruction of movement. I never put my carry-on in the overhead, keeping it with me and accessible at all times.

My spouse and I both worked in the defense world and train together in physical fitness, and hand-to-hand/edged-weapon defense. We communicate regularly on mission preparedness. Because of this, we’re very good at nonverbal communication. From boarding to deplaning, we maintain awareness throughout the entire flight, which includes no noise-canceling headphones or ear buds, no sleeping, and no movies or entertainment that could divert our attention. We keep the lines of communication with each other open (for example: “I’m heading to the restroom in the front of the plane,” or “I’m going to get a water from the flight attendant in the back galley,” etc.)

Crisis
Midway through the flight, chaos erupts. It’s clear that the plane is being hijacked, and at this point in time, as hard as it may be, it’s essential to remain calm so you can assess, evaluate, and plan.
In the assessment stage I have three main concerns: 1) Is the pilot safe?, 2) Is there an explosive device on the plane?, and 3) How many hijackers are involved? Ever since Sept. 11, airline cockpits are locked, so if a hijacker has breached the lock it should be physically obvious. To identify the presence of an explosive device, visually inspect the hijacker’s hands to see if they have something that could be used as a detonation device. And finally, scan the passengers to see if you can observe any additional potential threats.

Once my risk assessment is done, I’ll evaluate the situation with my spouse and take note of our options. Can we rush the hijacker and end this situation? Are there other threats that need to be contained before taking on the hijacker? How do we create distractions? These are all questions to consider during the evaluation stage.

Now it’s time to plan. I’ll communicate with my spouse (verbally if possible, but non-verbal is always an option) and develop an actionable plan. In this situation, I’d suggest my spouse go to the rear of the aircraft due to his body size and immediate risk to the flight attendant’s life. Next, I’ll try to visually and physically communicate with the passengers whom I’ve identified to enlist their help to take down the hijackers. I’d also tell my seatmate about our plan (assuming I don’t suspect he might be in on it).

Because of the positioning of our seats, I’d ask our seatmate to watch the plane and to verbally get our attention if any other risks arise. Before moving from our seats, I’d access and divide up the zip ties and ballpoint pens. The pens can be used as weapons, and the zip ties can be used to help restrain the attackers. I’d position my backpack so I can use it with my defender plate to protect my torso while charging the forward most hijacker. Finally, before separating with my spouse, I’d discuss with him how to exit our seats and the need for it to be fast and violent in hopes of taking the hijackers by surprise.

Once we’re mobile, and our plan is in motion, I’d again make nonverbal cues to passengers I’ve identified as able to help, urging them to follow suit. Assuming we’re successful and the hijackers are subdued and restrained, I’ll scan the plane for additional potential risks, and have my spouse work with a flight attendant to gain communication to the cockpit. If the pilot or pilots are deemed safe, I’d relay pertinent information to him for communication to the ground for an emergency landing.

Nobody wants to fall victim to another Sept. 11 attack. If able, we’d all be willing to fight to ensure that doesn’t happen again. In every instance the passengers will outnumber the hijackers, and if you’re prepared, you have the ability to overpower them and take back control. In nearly every scenario, I’d make the conscious decision to violently fight back, because time is of the essence. It’s common knowledge that the longer an incident lasts, the higher the likelihood a device will detonate and/or hijackers will gain access to the cockpit. I believe in being decisive and acting with speed, violence, and the element of surprise to overtake those seeking to inflict harm.

If you don’t have the mental or physical wherewithal to survive, knowing whether or not a hijacker is on your plane is inconsequential. Taking accountability for ourselves and others is as important as acknowledging that harboring in place rarely has a positive result. At the end of the day, fighting for ourselves, fighting for others, and fighting for America is the only way to combat terrorism.

Survival Expert: Tim MacWelch’s Approach

Preparation
So how would one prepare for a flight where a hijacking might take place? It’s not like the TSA would let you on the plane with all your tactical gear and a parachute. But thankfully, we can rely on more than mere luck for protection. Knowledge is one of our greatest assets, and while it might be unnerving, a great deal can be learned from studying the past few decades of airline bombing attempts and hijackings (particularly Sept. 11). While we’re at it, I’d take some time to brush up on close-quarters hand-to-hand fighting, especially grappling and striking. I’d also read through the TSA-approved item lists at www.tsa.gov. Steel-toed boots are still allowed on planes, as well as leather belts with large metal buckles. Crippling kicks can be delivered with the boots. The belt can be used as a whip, or a restraint, as needed.

A tactical pen could be handy in a pinch, but why carry a little spike when you can still bring knitting needles in your carry on? The pen is cute, plus it writes on paper, but 14-inch hardwood or metal spikes can do a little more damage, most notably when shoved into a bad guy’s ear canal. All you need is a ball of yarn with some half-knitted booties, and you have your excuse to carry them. Of course, the final decision rests with the TSA officer on whether an item is allowed through the checkpoint, but knitting needles and crochet hooks are on the “OK” list (for now).

To continue my preparation, I’d let the air crash statistics govern my selection of seating for me and any companions. This has little to do with terrorism, and more to do with the speed you could escape a downed aircraft. Generally speaking, the safest seats on an airplane are the exit row seats above each wing and the adjacent seating nearby. Choosing these seats will give you first crack at escape. Conversely, the worst seats (statistically) are the window seats furthest from the exits. You’d have to climb over seats, and possibly people, to get out. You’ll also have to go further to get out of the plane. While we’re on the topic of seat choice, the first few rows can be a gamble. Sure, you’re close to the front exit, but these seats may be obliterated in a frontal crash. Whichever seat you choose (or get stuck with), make sure you know where the exits are located, even if you can’t see them. In a smoke-filled cabin, you shouldn’t be wondering which way to go.

One final prep would be communication. Your normal mobile phone won’t be of much use at 30,000 feet, plus Airfones have pretty much become a thing of the past and are rarely found on airliners anymore. The altitude threshold for cell communication is roughly 10,000 feet in the air. And it’s not just altitude that can limit your connection. Speed and “tower confusion” can also effect a cellular connection. Planes traveling more than 155 mph aren’t likely places from which you can make a call. At great height and speed, your phone will try to link to many cell towers for signal, confusing both the phone and the network. While searching, the phone will emit a stronger signal, and the FAA says that this heightened signal can affect the aircraft’s communications and navigational equipment.

Finally, when flying over rural areas, the towers will be fewer and farther between; and over the open ocean, there are no towers at all. So what’s your viable option? Pick a flight and airline that has in-flight Wi-Fi, so you can still communicate using your mobile phones or devices, or bring a satellite phone. If you could get a message out with any device, there’s no cut-and-dry answer for whom you should call. If the plane were low enough and slow enough to use your mobile phone and cell towers, you could certainly try 911. With a sat phone or working mobile, you could try the number for the airline you’re flying. On Sept. 11, flight attendants Amy Sweeney and Betty Ong called the American Airlines office to relate that Flight 11 had been hijacked. You could also plan ahead by getting phone numbers for Homeland Security and the FBI.

What if airplane terrorist attack hijacking scenario survival shtf emergency 3

On Site
Once we’ve boarded and gotten underway, we’d keep our seatbelts fastened. This isn’t just to stay off the “naughty” list that the flight attendants are mentally compiling. Sometimes people die from injuries sustained during turbulence, and sadly, these broken necks and traumatic brain injuries could have been avoided by the simple use of a seatbelt. Roughly 60 people a year are injured from failing to wear their seatbelts on U.S. flights, and it’s usually a patch of clear air turbulence that launches people from their seat. Yes, it’s more comfortable to unshackle yourself, but do you take your seatbelt off in the car? No, you leave it on. And you should copy that behavior on a plane (except during in-flight bathroom breaks).

You’ve heard of the “wise old owl,” right? The less he spoke, the more he heard. One simple safety protocol for my family is to limit our own talking in crowded places. Instead, we listen to what’s going on around us. Of course, we’d look around a lot too, studying our surroundings as well as profiling the other passengers and even the crew. Our senses of smell can be valuable at certain times, too. As renowned tracker Freddy Osuna would say, “Weaponize your senses!” Plenty of people look nervous before flying, but unless potential hijackers have nerves of steel, they’re likely to look extra nervous. Whether it’s a copycat of Sept. 11, a hijacking for ransom, or some political statement, hijackers will have a lot going on internally, which may be visible externally.

Crisis
There has to be an evolutionary advantage to panic. Perhaps our remote ancestors survived unexpected attacks by bolting without hesitation and running in an unpredictable pattern. In our modern world of threats, panic isn’t very valuable anymore. As soon as the hijackers are spotted, each and every passenger should remain calm, quiet, and compliant, no matter how badly you want to twist their heads off. In the initial moment, I would do my best to not fight or panic. Even if I or my spouse were grabbed or taken hostage, I’d endeavor to comply. With my eyes down and no talking, I’d listen intently and gather information. I’d also prepare myself mentally for the long haul.

If the hijacking were for ransom, the ordeal could carry on for days. So I’d find out everything I could about my adversaries and bide my time. By doing my best to not appear as a threat to them or a challenge to their plan, I can better determine what that plan actually is, then make the best choice. With the threat of a bomb onboard, a hasty action against suicidal terrorists could get everyone killed. If it’s a hijacking for money, it’s in the hijacker’s best interest to keep everyone alive. If it’s some other plan, we may be facing our final hours of life. In that grim setting, then we’ll have to pick the right time and manner of attack. It might be worth the risk of communicating or coordinating with other passengers, if it could be done without alerting the attackers.

Since travel restrictions forbid firearms and knives on a plane, we’d have to get creative — improvising weapons, then attacking with surprise and savagery to retake control of the plane. Punch their throats, gouge their eyes, get them on the floor, and kick in their skull, or use a bootlace as a garrote. There are plenty of ways to fight without firearms or blades. If we managed to retake the cabin and the cockpit was never breached, the plane could make an emergency landing at the nearest airport. If the pilots are found dead, after retaking the plane, air traffic control may be able to walk someone through landing. There have been numerous successful landings by non-pilots, guided by air traffic controllers on the ground (many of whom have prior flight experience). And if you need to select a radio frequency for ATC, try 121.5 MHz (for civilian) or 243.0 MHz (for military use, also known as Military Air Distress), which air traffic control usually monitors.

Conclusion

There’s nowhere to run and no place to hide on an airplane. You’re caught up in the mix during any bad situation that happens in the air. Even if you sit still and don’t make a sound, you’re still an active participant in the events that are unfolding around you. That’s right, choosing not to act is a choice, and making a choice is an action. You’re still actively involved, and there are more actions to consider than just self-preservation that won’t improve your chances.

When it comes to preparedness and survival, many of us start out prepping with a concern only for ourselves and our loved ones. But sometimes, as a person’s survival knowledge grows, certain people realize that they need to help others survive as well. And this can be a crossroad in survival. Would you be able to sacrifice your own survival so that others might live? Some are willing to risk their life to save others, while some won’t make that choice. We all want to believe that we’re heroic, but you never really know for certain until you’re in a situation that calls for that kind of sacrifice. We pray that none of us ever have to find out the hard way, whether we’re craven or courageous underneath it all.

Meet Our Panel

Tim MacWelch

Tim MacWelch has been a survival instructor for more than 20 years, training people from all walks of life, including members from all branches of the U.S. Armed Forces, the State Department, DOD, and DOJ personnel. He’s a frequent public speaker for preparedness groups and events. He’s also the author of three New York Times-bestselling survival books, and the new Ultimate Bushcraft Survival Manual. When he’s not teaching survival or writing about it, MacWelch lives a self-reliant lifestyle with his family in Virginia. Check out his wide range of hands-on training courses that are open to the public at www.advancedsurvivaltraining.com.

Hana L. Bilodeau

Hana L. Bilodeau has over 15 years of law enforcement experience, serving both locally and federally. Most recently, she spent time with the Federal Air Marshal Service covering multiple domestic and international missions. Hana has a wealth of knowledge in a number of different defensive modalities to include her present role as a full-time firearms instructor for SIG SAUER Academy. Hana is also a per diem deputy with the Strafford County Sheriff's Office, allowing her to stay current with the law enforcement culture. Learn more at www.sigsaueracademy.com.

More From Issue 29

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 30

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 28

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Pocket Preps: Wallets

Some of you might have read the headline and said, “Wallets? Wallets aren’t survival tools!” But if you emptied your pockets right now, there’s a good chance you’d pull out a wallet among the contents. Why? Because it’s an essential piece of your everyday-carry loadout. And in a disaster — man-made or natural — it can make a big difference.

Gonna hole up indoors during an impending blizzard? You’ll first have to pay for the extra food, water, and backup heat sources that’ll help you get through it. Are you overseas for the holidays when a local government coup erupts? Better have your charge card handy to buy that first plane ticket out of Dodge. Trying to return home after a police blockade has locked down your community? You’ll need your driver’s license to show proof of residence.

If you stop to think about it, the cash, credit cards, and identification in your wallet can probably get you out of more jams than you might realize.

That’s why in this edition of Pocket Preps we take a look beyond your granddaddy’s bifold wallet. We found some modern updates of classic themes, while others are revolutionizing the genre from the ground up. Read on to see if there’s one that can improve your EDC setup.

Blackthorn Leather Rover II with Fisher Space Pen Sidecar Pocket

OFGP-190200-POCKET-BLACKTHORN-LINEUP-03.JPG

Materials
Leather, stainless steel

Dimensions (Approx.)
4 by 3.75 by 0.25 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
2.2 ounces

MSRP
$69

URL
blackthornleather.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-BLACKTHORN-REVIEW-01.JPG

Notes
Blackthorn Leather is a small California-based company that makes soft goods with big (but not showy) style and wicked craftsmanship. This model is an upgrade to its original slim wallet, with a second pocket sewn to the front, a steel money clip integrated to the back, and a sidecar added to house a Fisher Space Pen (sold separately). It can fit eight cards snugly, though your mileage will vary. Plus, you can choose from various leather and stitching colors, as well as two types of money clips. The result is a fresh take on the genre, but with old-school aesthetics and increased functionality. Made in the USA.

Pros:

  • Vintage appeal with modern functionality
  • Our review sample’s cash clip doubles as a bottle-opener.
  • Personalize your wallet for free by getting three letters stamped to the front.
  • Leather will conform to contents.

Cons:

  • Leather, in general, won’t hold up in wet or harsh conditions over a long period of time.

Trayvax Element

OFGP-190200-POCKET-TRAYVAX-LINEUP-02.JPG

Materials
Leather, stainless steel

Dimensions (Approx.)
4.5 by 2.8 by 0.5 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
5 ounces

MSRP
$65

URL
trayvax.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-TRAYVAX-REVIEW-03.JPG

Notes
Trayvax was among the first to deconstruct the conventional wallet by pairing an aluminum faceplate to a steel backing using Mil-spec paracord. Now it has all sorts of unique models, including the Element. It stores your ID and credit cards by pressing them against a Melonite-coated stainless steel frame using a tough but smooth leather wrap, secured in place with a snap-button closure. The thick frame — which provides RFID protection — also has an integrated cash clip, bottle-opener, and lanyard hole. The Element can hold three to 10 cards and one to five bills. Made in the USA.

Pros:

  • Exceptional materials and inventive design work
  • Built-in money clip and bottle-opener
  • Leather will stretch and conform as you break it in.
  • Solid steel frame makes for a decent impromptu self-defense tool.

Cons:

  • Snap-button closure was crazy tight out of the box, then too loose during our evaluation phase.
  • The rivet on the back side of the snap-button scratches our cards.

Zootility x Rustico PocketMonkey Wallet

OFGP-190200-POCKET-ZOOTILITY-LINEUP-02.JPG

Materials
Leather, merino wool (wallet); stainless steel (tools)

Dimensions (Approx.)
4.25 by 2.625 by 0.125 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
0.7 ounce

MSRP
$25, $49 with tools

URL
zootility.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-ZOOTILITY-REVIEW-05.JPG

Notes
This collaboration between Zootility and Rustico consists of a special version of the latter company’s Wool Single Track Wallet that’s meant to house the former firm’s PocketMonkey multitool and Headgehog Comb. (Unfortunately, our review sample didn’t come with the Headgehog Comb, so we can’t comment on it here.) This trio puts a mini toolbox in your pocket. The PocketMonkey is a one-piece multitool with 12 functions that range from the useful (i.e. wrenches, screwdrivers) to the surprising (i.e. headphone wrap, orange peeler). The wallet by itself is $25, but you can get all three items for $49.

Pros:

  • Slim, lightweight, and easy to use
  • The merino wool interior keeps your cards scratch-free.
  • If you opt for the fully loaded $49 option, you’ll find yourself looking for small tasks for these fun tools.

Cons:

  • It can’t hold more than a few cards and bills.
  • We’re not so sure how it’ll do after continued hard use or in extreme conditions.

Mean Gene Leather Hot Tamale ID Wallet

OFGP-190200-POCKET-MEAN-LINEUP-01.JPG

Materials
Leather

Dimensions (Approx.)
5 by 3.5 by 0.375 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
3.8 ounces

MSRP
$50

URL
meangeneleather.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-MEAN-REVIEW-05.JPG

Notes
When filled with coins, this little hombre can weigh almost a pound. It also has a retractable lanyard with a leather handle, which can be worn around your neck or wrist. Why would a coin purse need a lanyard? Well, if you’re a creative martial artist like this author, you’ll intuit that this wallet can easily become an improvised chain whip. Or at the very least give you quick access to your quarters. Overall, it’s a coin purse on steroids that’s beautifully made and ideal for carrying a limited amount of money and cards. Made in the USA.

Pros:

  • Outside-the-box design
  • Minimalism meets everyday practicality and cowboy style.
  • More than 10 leather colors to choose from
  • Durable materials and top-notch craftsmanship

Cons:

  • The Hot Tamale has limited cargo capacity.
  • As resilient as leather can be, it’s not known for enduring brutal weather long term.

Nite Ize Financial Tool Multi Tool Wallet

OFGP-190200-POCKET-NITE-LINEUP-02.JPG

Materials
Stainless Steel

Dimensions (Approx.)
3.6 by 2.3 by 0.14 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
1.16 ounces

MSRP
$10

URL
niteize.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-NITE-REVIEW-03.JPG

Notes
We bestowed this Nite Ize wallet with our Best Value Award, because it gives you more bang for your buck (pun intended). For just $10, you get seven tools integrated into two stainless steel frames, which press your cards and greenbacks together with a rubber-like strap. Its many functions include a bottle opener, wrenches, flathead screwdriver, and rulers. Also available in black, the Financial Tool Multi Tool Wallet is a low-profile model that not only holds a good amount of cards and cash, but also serves as a mini toolbox for light-duty tasks.

Pros:

  • Packed with useful light-duty tools, such as a Philips screwdriver that doubles as a box opener
  • It’s manufactured in China, but you wouldn’t know it by its quality construction.
  • Price tag is easy on the bank account.

Cons:

  • The strap feels like it will snap and rolls over on itself too often.
  • The plates are thin and have right corners that dig into our fingers when we hold it in a tight grip.

Celtic Shield Minimalistic Wallet

OFGP-190200-POCKET-CELTIC-LINEUP-02.JPG

Materials
Aluminum

Dimensions (Approx.)
3.5 by 2.125 by 0.375 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
2.9 ounces

MSRP
$98

URL
shop.celticshield.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-CELTIC-REVIEW-03.JPG

Notes
No, this isn’t a licensed RECOIL product placement, but rather an example of how Celtic Shield can (for an additional charge) custom engrave a logo of your choosing on either side of its low-profile wallet. It’s essentially two aluminum plates held tightly together by two retention bands. To access a credit card, just pry the plates apart like a clamshell then let go — they’ll snap shut. It’s available in five configurations, including slick/slick (meaning it’s plain on both sides) or coin/clip (meaning there’s a money clip on one side and a holder for a 1.5-inch challenge coin on the other). Made in the USA.

Pros:

  • Clean, modern lines combined with a simple-to-use design
  • The plates are durable while also providing RFID protection.
  • If you prefer to run cashless, you can use the clip to attach the wallet to your pocket, belt, go-bag, or inside your vehicle.
  • A solid last-ditch improvised weapon

Cons:

  • Due to its sandwich design, this wallet doesn’t offer any sort of compartmentalizing.

MIKOL Carrara White Minimalist Wallet

OFGP-190200-POCKET-MIKOL-LINEUP-02.JPG

Materials
Marble

Dimensions (Approx.)
3.54 by 2.24 by 0.04 inches

Weight (Unloaded)
1.2 ounces

MSRP
Starting at $99

URL
mikolmarmi.com

OFGP-190200-POCKET-MIKOL-REVIEW-04.JPG

Notes
MIKOL says it has created the world’s first marble wallet. Why marble? Like the watches, phone cases, and other accessories this San Francisco company makes, the wallet is designed for those who want both luxurious form and hard-use function. The MIKOL plates sandwich your money and credit cards holding them together with a retention band. Or you can slip your bills through just the band for quicker access. It comes in four colors, with the options of adding RFID protection ($16 extra), an engraving (another $25), or both (for $41).

Pros:

  • Though assembled in China, it survived our 6-foot drop tests unscathed.
  • Brings a unique aesthetic to the genre
  • Will endure tough conditions
  • Can hold more than a dozen cards, yet is slim and compact

Cons:

  • For penny-pinching preppers, this might seem a little pricey and extravagant.
  • Its simplistic design provides no organization of its contents like a traditional wallet.

More From Issue 29

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid’s free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 30

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 28

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor’s Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.