Medical Trauma Treatment: Stories of Combat Survival

Disclaimer: This story is not a detailed guide on emergency first-aid methods. Do not attempt to perform these techniques without first receiving professional paramedic or first-aid training.

Editor’s Note

In Issue 17 of the print edition of RECOIL OFFGRID magazine, we presented an exclusive interview with “LEGO,” an active-duty special operations combat medic who shared his experience with contributor Andrew Schrader. In that interview, titled “The No-B.S. Paramedic Guide”, LEGO conveyed how to handle the three most common traumatic injuries: blunt head trauma, blunt abdominal trauma, and penetrating trauma. Pick up a copy of Issue 17, on shelves starting December 2nd, 2016, to read the full article.

Because LEGO is still active-duty we can’t disclose his identity or unit affiliation, but we’ve confirmed that he has been deployed a sh*t-ton of times in various combat zones throughout the world. As a supplement to that feature, we’re presenting two more of his harrowing adventures and the lessons preppers can learn from them.

Blunt Abdominal Trauma

One crush injury I worked on happened when the road gave way and one of our HMMWVs (High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle) rolled off a canal bank. Luckily the mud bank was soft enough that he didn’t get pinched in half. If it weren’t such a serious situation, it would have been comical seeing him pressed into the mud like Wile E. Coyote.

“Medevac was a good one to two hours off.”

 
With any injury, you have to assess the airway, breathing, and circulation first. You always want to establish baseline vitals. These help you identify how bad off they are and if your treatments are working. In my case, the individual had broken ribs and had internal bleeding. I took baselines and called in for medevac. In your case, you would have someone call 911 while you continue to treat. The earlier you can get help to you, the better his or her chances for survival.

Since we weren’t on target yet, medevac was a good one to two hours off.

Once I checked that his airway was fine — I could tell by the screaming — I started addressing circulation. When you know medevac can be delayed, blood can become more important than everything else because you can’t get it back. If it’s going to be more than an hour, address flowing bleeding first, even if it’s simply slapping on a tourniquet and converting it to a pressure dressing later.

After I put a quick dressing on his visible bleed, I addressed his breathing. I noted it was starting to become labored, and as I checked his ribs I noted that several were broken. He had what we call a flail chest. That’s where three or more ribs are broken in two or more places. It has a very distinct look; the section that is fractured moves opposite of the rest of the ribcage during breathing.

To address breathing, I put a small 500ml IV bag over the fracture portion and then wrapped it in ACE wrap. With any kind of fracture you want to limit movement by splinting it. The weight on the flailed section prevents it from moving and causing more damage (i.e. more bleeding). You can use duct tape or ACE wrap too if that is all you have. (Editor’s note: We’ve been told that MRE bags also work well for this purpose, as well as for sealing sucking chest wounds.)

Head Trauma

I’ve had several instances where I’ve had to deal with head trauma in the field. Everything from HMMWVs rolling over to treating blast injuries that threw people to the ground. But the one that sticks out in my head where I made a critical difference was where a teammate peeled off a fast rope and fell out of a helo [helicopter] head first, burning into the ground like a lawn dart from 25 feet up.

He was completely unconscious by the time I got to the ground, and I noticed when I reached him that he hit hard enough to crack his Pro-Tec helmet. With smelling salts he came to and was alert. He kept telling me he was fine and he answered all of my questions without any problems. As a precaution, I stabilized his spine and put him on oxygen. Oxygen, if you have it, helps reduce swelling.

“as the brain swells the patient will get agitated.”

 
We were a good hour drive from the nearest hospital and the helos had already left because they were out of fuel.

At first my focus was on his spine, but after a detailed neurological exam I could see that wasn’t an issue. It was only because of the constant level-of-consciousness checks I provided that I was able to start identifying a problem.

He started to get combative, almost like the questions and treatments were frustrating him. This is a huge sign you have an issue because as the brain swells the patient will get agitated. He was now only correctly answering two or three questions of the simple questions I had been asking him. I upped the O2 and changed his positioning so that his head remained above his heart. When I got to the E.R. the nurse seemed lethargic given the urgency of the situation. Even though I was stomping my feet and trying to relay the fact he was decompensating, they had not even called the doctor over yet. I was pissed at the lack of urgency.

I made such a fuss that a passing surgeon in the hallway stopped and came into the room just in time to see my teammate go from answering the nurse’s questions to going into a full seizure. It just so happened that the doctor passing by happened to be the only neurosurgeon in the country and was seconds from leaving to get on a flight out.

After surgery and an induced two-week coma, he recovered fully. In short, by doing what I could do to reduce swelling and recognizing the shift in condition from his baseline, along with the ability to convey the information, was the key that saved his life. The doctor told me later that my teammate was 10 minutes from never waking up again.

The next time I saw him, he was getting out of the military to become a preacher. I guess he saw the light.


Making a Paracord Ball Keychain

Have you ever seen paracord woven into a ball, and wondered how it’s done? Making a simple knot lanyard is easy enough, but creating a sphere from a single strand of paracord is much less intuitive. These spherical paracord formations are often called monkey fist or monkey paw knots, and they can be created using cord alone or with a round stone, marble, ball bearing at the center.

Here's one traditional method for tying a monkey's fist knot.

Here’s one traditional method for tying a monkey’s fist knot. Other decorative methods are also available.

These ball knots have a variety of potential uses:

  • Making the end of a rope easier to throw across gaps, such as those between a ship and dock. This is called a heaving line, and often contains an added weight at the center of the knot.
  • Anchoring a line during rock climbing by jamming the knot in a crack. Rarely used by modern climbers due to safety concerns.

Paracord ball keychain weave knot 6

  • Serving as a button closure for a bracelet, by passing the knot through a loop. See this guide from Paracord Forum for more details.
  • Easy-to-grab zipper pulls or keychains.
  • Decoration or ornamentation on the end of a line.
  • With a heavy metal weight at the center, for swinging use as a self-defense weapon.
Paracord ball keychain weave knot 2

The loose formation of a paracord ball knot. See video below.

There are a number of variations on the monkey fist knot. In the below video from Paracord Knots on YouTube, the host shows a silent demonstration of how to tie a small paracord ball keychain. This version contains no weight or marble at the center, but it would be possible to add one before tightening the knot.


Trench Foot Treatment & Prevention

If you’re planning to spend time outdoors this winter, you’ll need to be cautious of frostbite and hypothermia due to the cold conditions. However, there’s another more insidious medical problem to be watchful for: trench foot. Also known as immersion foot syndrome, trench foot is a harmful condition caused by prolonged exposure to damp, cold, and/or unsanitary conditions. If left untreated, it may cause loss of blood flow, numbness, open sores, fungal infection, and tissue decay (necrosis) which may force amputation of the foot or leg.

Photo of logs burning in a campfire.

You might be thinking, “trench foot only happens to soldiers living in cold muddy trenches, right?” While the name of the condition originated in World War I as a result of those conditions, it’s not restricted to winter. The related condition of tropical immersion foot (or “paddy foot”) afflicted many soldiers during the Vietnam war, despite temperatures of 70°F and up. Trench foot is also not restricted to wartime environments, and frequently affects hikers, mountain climbers, and backpackers. It has even affected attendees of a particularly rainy music festival.

Here’s an interesting 5-minute documentary segment from the BBC, which briefly addresses the initial causes of and solutions to trench foot during World War I:

British physician and bacteriologist Almroth Wright made tremendous progress in trench foot treatment by cleaning the wounds thoroughly, then leaving them open to the air to heal naturally. This contradicted the older practice of pouring antiseptic into the infected wound, and immediately closing or covering it. The key cause of trench foot is excessive moisture, so allowing the feet to breathe and dry out was a game-changer at that time.

Black and white photo of Almroth Wright. Wright advanced treatment of trench foot by allowing patients' feet to breathe and dry.

Almroth Wright advanced treatment of trench foot by allowing patients’ feet to breathe and dry.

In modern times, we have a better understanding of trench foot. Since it begins as a result of prolonged exposure to moisture, and is accelerated by cold temperatures and bacteria/fungi, the best preventative measure is to keep feet dry, warm, and clean. In heavy rain or snow, this can be difficult, but regular foot inspection is essential to watch for initial symptoms — numbness, tingling, swelling, and pain. Even waterproof boots aren’t a sure fire fix — while they can keep out external moisture, they may also trap in sweat, leading to maceration and softening of the skin.

Trench foot boot immersion medical water 2

The introduction of wooden “duckboards” helped keep soldiers’ feet out of the mud and moisture during...

If these initial symptoms are spotted, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommends trench foot treatment via applying warm packs or soaking in warm water (102° to 110° F) for approximately 5 minutes. Medical attention should be sought if symptoms continue to worsen.

Trench foot boot immersion medical mud 3

The effects of trench foot on an unidentified soldier during WWI. Source: Library and Archives Canada, PA-149311 /...

Even if no symptoms are present, the following preventative measures should always be taken if you’re spending time in a wet environment:

  • Thoroughly clean and dry feet at least once per day, or multiple times throughout the day if possible.
  • Put on clean, dry socks daily. If no fresh socks are available, air-dry your existing socks or place them near a fire to dry.
  • Do not wear socks when sleeping or resting. Allow your feet to breathe and dry out. However, keep them warm and be cautious of frostbite.

For more information on trench foot treatment and prevention, read the CDC Disaster Recovery Fact Sheet on trench foot or immersion foot.

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Zombie Tools Limited-Edition Bushlicker Knife

With a name like Zombie Tools, you might expect this Montana-based team of bladesmiths crafts weapons that look cool but are impractical for survival use. Fortunately, that’s not the case — Zombie Tools blades may look good, but they can also take a beating in the real world. The company has continued to prove this point by unveiling knives that emphasize practicality, while retaining the unique battle-worn ZT aesthetic.

The Zombie Tools elves are hard at work finishing a backlog of blade orders before Christmas.

The Zombie Tools elves are hard at work finishing a backlog of blade orders before Christmas.

A few weeks ago, we wrote about the redesigned Zombie Tools Para Bellum, a slight twist on the traditional Filipino bolo knife. More recently, ZT has announced the release of another practical blade, known as the Bushlicker. The innuendo-laced name fits right in alongside other creatively-dubbed ZT blades like the Traumahawk and D’Capitan. However, the Bushlicker is substantially different from most previous ZT blades in a number of key areas.

Zombie tools bushlicker bushcraft knife 1

The Bushlicker is ZT’s very first bushcraft knife, designed with a simple and useful blade size and profile. The short, upswept belly is ideal for carving wood and skinning game, while the hard-edged spine serves as a ferro rod striker. Rather than ZT’s typical leather-wrapped aluminum handle scales, this knife uses black G10 laminated onto a red Kydex liner on each side of the full-tang handle.

Zombie tools bushlicker bushcraft knife 2

Speaking of materials, there’s another first for ZT: a departure from 5160/6150 spring steel. All previous ZT blades have been made of these forms of steel, but the Bushlicker is different. This little blade uses German 80CRV2, which in ZT’s words is “tough as f**k” and “will outlive you”. The blade can be carried into the wilderness in its included black leather sheath, which is embossed with the ZT logo. Here are the rest of the key specs:

  • Total Length: 8.5 inches
  • Blade Length: 4.25 inches
  • Handle Length: 4.25 inches
  • Steel Width: 0.165 inches
  • Weight: 8 ounces
  • MSRP: $275

Zombie tools bushlicker bushcraft knife 3

Finally, the ZT Bushlicker knife is the company’s first limited-edition blade. Only a few dozen have been produced for release this holiday season, and the knife will only be available for purchase while this supply lasts. Once they’re gone, the Bushlicker will be no more. The upside is that unlike standard-production ZT blades, these are not being made-to-order, and are therefore ready to ship immediately. So, you can still pick one up before Christmas.

For more info on the Zombie Tools Bushlicker bushcraft knife, go to ZombieTools.net.


Understanding Ferrocerium: What It Is & How it Works

Ferrocerium — it’s a word that sounds like it should describe the contents of a pill bottle from the drug store, rather than a tool in your survival kit. Adding to this confusion, ferrocerium rods or “ferro rods” are referred to and associated with a myriad of other terms: fire steel, metal match, magnesium rod, mischmetal, Auermetall, flint, or artificial/man-made flint. A quick search on Amazon.com reveals products with various combinations of these names.

So, what the heck is ferrocerium, and how does it work?

Ferrocerium ferro rod fire starter flint magnesium 1

Baron Carl Auer von Welsbach, inventor of ferrocerium. Source: Wikipedia

The substance now called ferrocerium was invented in 1903 by Austrian scientist Baron Carl Auer von Welsbach, pictured above. Welsbach was experimenting with types of mischmetal — that is, combinations of rare earth elements, such as cerium, lanthanum, and neodymium. Cerium was especially notable for its low ignition temperature.

Ferrocerium ferro rod fire starter flint magnesium 3

Cerium is a rare earth metal that is an essential element of ferrocerium. Source: Wikipedia / images-of-elements.com

When Welsbach mixed a combination of 70% cerium and 30% iron, he noticed the resulting alloy gave off sparks when scratched. When ferrocerium is struck by a hard and sharp object, such as a carbon steel blade, tiny shavings are oxidized and ignited by the friction of the striker and burn at 3,000°C/5,430°F.

Chemistry students may remember that iron compounds use the prefix ferro due to iron’s Latin name ferrum. Therefore, this new iron-cerium alloy was called ferrocerium. Some European countries still call the material Auermetall after the baron’s first name.

Modern ferrocerium typically appears as a cylindrical metal rod.

Modern ferrocerium typically appears as a dark-colored metal rod.

Later on, Welsbach added other metals to ferrocerium in order to fine-tune its properties. Lanthanum created brighter sparks, and other metals made the alloy harder and more durable. Since then, material scientists have continued to modify the recipe, producing a substance with the following approximate makeup:

  • 30% Iron
  • 35-50% Cerium
  • 25% Lanthanum
  • Small amounts of neodymium, praseodymium, and magnesium
Ferrocerium ferro rod fire starter flint magnesium 4

The DGT Shadrach knife contains a mini ferrocerium rod. See Issue 17 for a full review.

Notice that ferrocerium contains magnesium. However, it’s inaccurate to call the alloy a “magnesium fire starter” due to the extremely small amounts it contains (about 2%). Actual magnesium bar fire starters contain a large block of pure magnesium, which can be shaved and ignited with a ferro rod.

This magnesium bar contains an embedded ferro rod, but the rest of the bar is pure magnesium.

This magnesium bar has an embedded ferro rod, but the rest of the bar is pure magnesium tinder material.

It’s also technically inaccurate to call ferrocerium “flint” because it has no chemical relationship with the rock/mineral of the same name. However, since both ferro rods and flint rocks spark when struck against steel, ferrocerium is often called flint or artificial flint. The “flint” insert in a Zippo lighter, for example, is just a tiny piece of ferrocerium.

Flint and other hard minerals can be used to create sparks, but are unrelated to ferrocerium.

Flint, chert, quartz, and other hard minerals can be used to create sparks, but are unrelated to ferrocerium.

Not even the name “fire steel” is technically accurate, since ferrocerium contains no carbon steel, only iron or iron oxide. “Fire iron” would be a more appropriate name, but doesn’t quite have the same ring to it.

No matter what you call it, ferrocerium is an excellent tool for fire-starting in survival situations. This time-tested alloy generates showers of white hot sparks on demand, and is worthy of a place in just about any survival kit.


Infographic: Flowchart of Dangerous Viruses

To the average person, viruses may seem confusing and overwhelming. Unless you’ve studied medicine or virology, it’s hard to explain the technical differences between a common cold and the flu, much less hantavirus and encephalitis. However, understanding the relationships between viruses can help us remember their symptoms, as well as how they’re transmitted. This allows us to better prepare for everything from mundane sickness to major viral outbreaks.

An electron micrograph of the varicella zoster virus (VZV) known as chickenpox. Source: Wikipedia / CDC

An electron micrograph of the varicella zoster virus (VZV) known as chickenpox. Source: Wikipedia / CDC

We’ll introduce this concept with some approachable examples. Chickenpox and shingles are both forms of herpesvirus, specifically the sub-category varicella zoster virus (VZV). VZV is highly contagious among humans, but it can be prevented through vaccination.

Many viruses in the flavi family are transmitted by mosquitoes.

Many viruses in the flavi family are transmitted by mosquitoes.

Zika, west nile, dengue, and yellow fever are all forms of the flavi virus. All of these are considered arboviruses, meaning they are transmitted via insects, specifically Aedes mosquitoes. Flavi viruses also tend to cause moderate to severe fever — so, if you were bitten by a mosquito and are experiencing this symptom, you should know to seek medical attention. You don’t need to comprehend the genetic structure of viruses to understand these relationships.

Virus disease flowchart medical first aid infographic 4

The graphic above was created by Mikael Haggstrom for the WikiJournal of Medicine and shows the body parts affected by some of the most notable viruses. For an in-depth look at the families of dangerous viruses, check out the infographic below from Eleanor Lutz of Nerdcore Medical. Note the arbovirus insect symbol, as it shows which viruses can be transmitted by mosquitoes, flies, and ticks. The syringe symbol indicates viruses which can be prevented through early vaccination.

For a much larger full-size version of this infographic, click here.

Virus disease flowchart medical first aid infographic 3

Even with all the information above, there’s a whole host of other diseases caused by bacteria instead of viruses. For more information on the difference between a virus and a bacterial infection, go to the CDC page “Viruses or Bacteria – What’s got you sick?”


Gear Nostalgia: Mini Flashlights

In the HighLights flashlight buyer’s guide in Issue 17 of our printed magazine, we reviewed nine miniature flashlights. These lights are designed to fit in the palm of your hand, in your pocket, or on a keychain. Rather than rely on your smartphone’s built-in LED, you can have significantly brighter light on demand, plus other useful features such as waterproofing and adjustable brightness modes. To read our full thoughts on the nine mini flashlights, pick up a copy of Issue 17, on shelves starting December 2nd, 2016.

Mini flashlights article

As we were finishing up the print article, we came across three additional lights that fit this theme. We didn’t have room to include them in the print article, so we’ll share our thoughts on these three mini flashlights here on the web. We also recorded short video clips of all 12 flashlights, so you can get a feel for the physical size and controls.

Bonus: LRI Photon II

Mini flashlights LRI photon

We’ve had this Photon II keychain light for several years, and it has served us well despite its diminutive size. It’s extremely compact — about the size of a quarter. The thumb pressure pad is great for quick momentary activation, and there is a tiny switch for constant-on mode if you’d prefer to leave the light running. The output is focused in a soft spotlight pattern. Although it’s rated at only 4.5 lumens, the manufacturer states it hasn’t been tested to official ANSI standards, and it appears closer to 10 or 15 lumens. That’s still not a lot of power, but the Photon II is a good choice for an ultra-small keychain light.

Max Lumen Output: 4.5
Max Runtime: 18 hrs.
Overall Length: 1.6 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.2 oz.
Battery Type: CR2016 (two, included)
Controls: Pressure pad, small constant-on switch
Output Modes: N/A
Special Features: Quick-release keyring, small split ring
MSRP: $12
URL: www.photonlight.com

Bonus: Nitecore Tube

Mini flashlights Nitecore Tube

Despite being called the Tube, this Nitecore light is not cylindrical. It’s actually thin and flat, comparable in size to a mini Bic lighter. It offers two brightness modes, selectable by the power button on top of the light — press once for 1-lumen moonlight mode, and double-tap for full 45-lumen power. The button can also be held down for momentary full-power mode. Rather than replaceable batteries, this light uses an integrated li-ion battery with micro-USB charging. The beam pattern is a wide and soft flood light, ideal for illuminating a workspace or reading a map, but not ideal for focused directional output. We like the Tube a lot, but we still prefer the new Nitecore TIP for its higher output and tough aluminum body.

Max Lumen Output: 45
Max Runtime: 48 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.2 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.3 oz.
Battery Type: Built-in lithium-ion battery with micro-USB charging
Controls: Push-button power switch with momentary mode
Output Modes: High, low
Special Features: Stainless steel keyring connector, micro-USB port with dust cover, charging indicator LED
MSRP: $10
URL: www.nitecore.com

Bonus: OLIGHT S1 Baton

Mini flashlights Olight S1 Baton

The OLIGHT S1 Baton is an updated version of the S10R Baton II we reviewed in the magazine article. It looks similar to the S10R, but there are several key differences. First, the business end of the light uses a TIR optic lens rather than the older light’s basic reflector. This makes the beam softer and more even, a significant improvement. This S1 Baton is a non-rechargeable model, so it lacks the charging dock compatibility of the R-series lights (although the tail cap is still magnetic). A rechargeable S1R model is available for $15 extra ($65 MSRP), but we haven’t tested it yet.

The S1 shares the same 500-lumen brightness as the old S10, but extends run time to a claimed 600 hours. It’s also smaller and lighter than the S10R, and it’s even IPX8 waterproof. This is a truly superb EDC flashlight, and a nice improvement on the S10 series.

Max Lumen Output: 500
Max Runtime: 600 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.4 in.
Weight with Batteries: 1.7 oz.
Battery Type: CR123 (one, included)
Controls: Push-button power switch with momentary mode
Output Modes: Turbo, high, low, moonlight, strobe
Special Features: Magnetic tail cap, pocket clip, wrist lanyard, IPX8 waterproof
MSRP: $50
URL: www.olightworld.com

Coast G5

Max Lumen Output: 18
Max Runtime: 45 min.
Overall Length: 2.5 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.5 oz.
Battery Type: AG5 (four, included)
Controls: Push-button tail cap with on-off and momentary modes
Output Modes: N/A
Special Features: Large split ring, small split ring, swivel
MSRP: $6
URL: www.coastportland.com

Fenix UC01

Max Lumen Output: 45
Max Runtime: 50 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.5 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.5 oz.
Battery Type: Built-in lithium-polymer with micro-USB charging
Controls: Push-button switch with 0.5-second lockout delay
Output Modes: High, medium, low
Special Features: Carabiner, small split ring, battery indicator LED, micro- USB port with dust cover
MSRP: $12
URL: www.fenixlight.com

FourSevens Atom AL

Max Lumen Output: 110
Max Runtime: 40 hrs.
Overall Length: 1.8 in.
Weight with Batteries: 1.6 oz.
Battery Type: CR123 (one, included)
Controls: Twist-on bezel
Output Modes: Low, high
Special Features: Magnetic tail cap, glow-inthe- dark LED backing, IPX8 waterproof, wrist lanyard
MSRP: $40
URL: www.foursevens.com

LED Lenser K2L

Max Lumen Output: 25
Max Runtime: 5 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.4 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.6 oz.
Battery Type: AG13 (four, included)
Controls: Twist-on bezel
Output Modes: N/A
Special Features: Large split ring, small split ring, swivel, clear Magic Light Ring behind bezel
MSRP: $10
URL: www.ledlenserusa.com

Nitecore TIP

Max Lumen Output: 360
Max Runtime: 46 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.4 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.8 oz.
Battery Type: Built-in lithium-ion with micro-USB charging
Controls: Push-button power switch with lockout function, push-button mode selector
Output Modes: Turbo, high, medium, low
Special Features: Large split ring, battery indicator LED, micro-USB port
MSRP: $30
URL: www.nitecore.com

OLIGHT S10R Baton II

Max Lumen Output: 500
Max Runtime: 168 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.9 in.
Weight with Batteries: 2.2 oz.
Battery Type: Rechargeable CR123 (one, included) or standard CR123 (not included)
Controls: Push-button power switch
Output Modes: High, medium, low, moonlight, strobe
Special Features: Magnetic tail cap, pocket clip, battery indicator LED, magnetic USB charging dock, wrist lanyard
MSRP: $66
URL: www.olightworld.com

Pelican 1810

Max Lumen Output: 16
Max Runtime: 8.75 hrs.
Overall Length: 1.5 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.4 oz.
Battery Type: LR41 (four, included)
Controls: Twist-on bezel
Output Modes: N/A
Special Features: Carabiner, small split ring, metal Pelican logo tag
MSRP: $13
URL: www.pelican.com

Streamlight Key-Mate

Max Lumen Output: 10
Max Runtime: 96 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.4 in.
Weight with Batteries: 0.8 oz.
Battery Type: LR44 (four, included)
Controls: Twist-on bezel
Output Modes: N/A
Special Features: Small split ring, swivel, carabiner, pocket clip, neck lanyard
MSRP: $17
URL: www.streamlight.com

SureFire Sidekick

Max Lumen Output: 300
Max Runtime: 45 hrs.
Overall Length: 2.5 in.
Weight with Batteries: 1.4 oz.
Battery Type: Built-in lithium-ion battery with micro-USB charging
Controls: Push-button power switch
Output Modes: High, medium, low
Special Features: Large split ring, carabiner,
micro-USB port
MSRP: $80
URL: www.surefire.com


The Origin of “Thugs”

Ever wonder where the words we use came from? The English language is an amalgamation of words from many languages and cultures, and these terms are often generated by memorable events over the course of centuries. The history behind specific words is known as etymology, and it can provide valuable insight into their true meaning. For example, the word “jumbo” came to mean “very big” because it was the name of an extra-large elephant owned by P.T. Barnum in the 1800s. We may think we know the meaning of jumbo, but not realize that it implies something as large as a 6.5-ton elephant.

The modern word

The modern word “thug” originated from the Hindi language spoken in India.

As survivalists, we may use the term “thugs” to describe marauding criminals who may steal our resources during a disaster scenario. However, understanding the etymology of this word provides some much-needed context on what thugs really are — in fact, it’s even worse than our modern interpretation.

The word “thug” is derived from a word ठग्गी in the Hindi language of India. This word is pronounced as “thuggee” in English, and it is derived from another Hindi word: “thag” which means deceiver or swindler. Historically, Thugs were an organized criminal gang that thrived in India from the mid-1300s to the late 1800s. Their brutally-violent actions built a reputation over the course of these 450 years, and eventually made their name synonymous with criminality.

Thuggee criminal gang India murders 2

Three Thug gang members restrain and strangle a sleeping traveler. Source: Wikipedia / Columbia University

Membership in the Thug gang was typically passed down from father to son, creating a actual class of trained criminals. There was also a religious element to thuggery, as the Thugs considered themselves servants of Kali, a scimitar-wielding Hindu goddess associated with destruction and renewal. Movie fans may remember references to the Thuggee and goddess Kali in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, though this film’s depiction was heavily fictionalized.

Thuggee criminal gang India murders 4

A sketch of a 90-year-old Thug in jail, circa 1840. Source: Wikipedia / The British Library

Historical accounts tell us that Thug gang members would target isolated travelers, and blend in with their group to seem non-threatening. Then, when the targeted individual was asleep or alone, the Thugs would silently strangle their victim with a handkerchief or rope noose. Any valuables would be stolen, and the body would be disposed of quickly. The Guinness Book of World Records estimates that Thugs caused as many as two million deaths through these methods.

Thuggee criminal gang India murders 3

Thugs stabbing the eyes of murdered travelers before throwing their bodies into a well. Source: Wikipedia / The British...

As survivalists, we should remember the history behind the term “thug”, and realize that criminals who prey on travelers are not a new phenomenon. Although the Thuggee gang is no longer in existence, we should always be aware of our surroundings, prepare to defend ourselves, and avoid falling victim to modern-day thuggery.


Easy DIY Snowshoes from Saplings

In the words of Ned Stark, winter is coming. Actually, depending on where you live, the cold months may have already arrived. With the cold often comes a thick blanket of snow. If you’re a dedicated survivalist, you should prepare yourself for traversing this snow safely. That means wearing warm clothing, carrying fire-starting tools, knowing how to construct a winter shelter. However, you’re not going to accomplish much if you can’t even make it 10 steps into the woods due to waist-deep snow.

Without snowshoes, you’re going to have a hard time making progress in winter environments.

Snowshoes are a key asset for winter environments, but it’s not always as simple as buying a pair at your local sporting goods store. There are many instances when off-the-shelf snowshoes can’t be used. For example, your car may break down in the middle of nowhere, or one of your snowshoes could be damaged or lost. Maybe in your rush to bug out, you simply didn’t have time to grab them. Whatever the case, it’s advantageous to know how to build a pair of DIY snowshoes from found materials.

DIY snowshoes winter boots paracord 1

Lonnie shows off the framework of his DIY snowshoe.

In the following video from Far North Bushcraft and Survival, host Lonnie shows how to build simple snowshoes from some alder saplings and spruce boughs. The outer section is composed of two curved saplings or branches, tied at each end with nylon rope or paracord. Lonnie recommends building the snowshoes at least chest-high for adequate surface area. Two boot supports are lashed to the center, and saplings are pulled through underneath.

We were definitely wondering how much of a difference the snowshoes were actually making, so we appreciated the humorous demonstration at the end of the video. Given this side-by-side comparison, we’d say this snowshoe design is a resounding success.


Go Bag Loadout: Alex Wander of Wander Tactical

We first met Alex Wander at Blade Show earlier this year, and he immediately got our attention with some very cool knife designs from his company, Wander Tactical. After talking with him some more, we realized that he’s not only a bladesmith, he’s also an avid outdoorsman and a survivalist — our kind of guy. When he’s not working on knives with his brother Greymoose Dino, Alex is practicing his bushcraft skills in the backwoods of his home country, Italy.

Alex recently shared a photo of his personal go bag with us, and his loadout provides some insight into the no-frills survival philosophy he emphasizes.

Wander Tactical go bag loadout gear 2

Here’s a list of the items in Alex’s go bag loadout:

  • Vacuum-packed meals and energy bars, approx. 3,000 calories total
  • Typhoo tea bags
  • 2 Lansky diamond sharpening stones (medium and fine grit)
  • Fenix E35 flashlight with paracord lanyard
  • 5 Lithium 18650 flashlight batteries
  • Large ferrocerium rod fire-starter
  • Waterproof match container with stormproof matches
  • Mint tin with fatwood tinder shavings
  • Recta DP 6G compass with luminous markings
  • 550 paracord
  • Helikon-Tex poncho/tarp with stuff sack
Here's a photo of a Wander Tactical Smilodon next to Alex's pre-production Wander Tactical Freedom knife (bottom).

A Wander Tactical Smilodon (top) next to Alex’s new Freedom knife (bottom). Photo: Alex Wander/Facebook

  • Wander Tactical Freedom knife (pre-production prototype)
  • Rite in the Rain waterproof notebook
  • Brass snare wire
  • Fishing kit with hooks, sinkers, and reel of line
  • First-aid kit with 2 Israeli bandages, Celox hemostatic granules, tourniquet, bandages, and iodine disinfectant (also used as a water purifier)
  • Locking carabiner
  • Not pictured: Klean Kanteen stainless steel water bottle, GSI Outdoors stainless steel cup, shemagh scarf

Wander Tactical go bag loadout gear 5

These items are contained in an old Flyye Industries handheld pack, with a shoulder strap, PALS webbing, and carabiner. In a SHTF situation, Alex would be able to grab the bag and be out the door and into the woods in no time. This lightweight wilderness survival kit gives Alex quick mobility, without the weight and bulk of a full-size 30-pound bug-out bag.

The tarp makes for an excellent improvised lean-to shelter.

The tarp and paracord allow construction of an improvised lean-to shelter. Photo: Alex Wander/Facebook

Unsurprisingly, of all his tools, this knife-maker values his knife the most. He wrote, “In 25 years I’ve tried tons of knives and now I have my own idea about how a knife should be. I always spend my weekends in the wilderness, and sometimes more than a weekend, learning primitive survival skills and so on. I’ve been also in a lot of places around the world even for months, and your loyal companion will always be your tool: a knife.”

Alex learned his knife-making skills from his brother and business partner at Wander Tactical, Greymoose Dino. He taught Alex how to grind his first blade, and they have now built a successful company together. To see more of Alex and Greymoose’s latest blade designs, follow @wandertactical_cutting_tools on Instagram or visit WanderTactical.com.