Book Review: “Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition”

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The Premise: In Issue 32, our feature “A Look at Locks” provided an overview on common household locks, and elsewhere in our latest issue Chad McBroom did up a nice primer on lockpicking as well. In many survival, escape, resistance, evasion (SERE) courses, you’ll find that lockpicking is often a common part of the curriculum. Whether it’s defeating locks to find food, seek shelter, or escape from unlawful incarceration, there’s no denying that understanding how to bypass locking mechanisms is a critical part of survival training. The Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition is a good starter manual to familiarizing yourself with the anatomy of many of the most common locks you’re likely to encounter.

The 411: The information is provided in very straightforward, easy-to-understand prose. Everything is clearly explained, and a helpful glossary of common terminology is provided at the end of the book. The authors dissect how to identify warded locks, tumbler locks, combination locks, tubular locks, lever locks, and wafer locks and describes what the differences are on each category’s variations. The book also discusses how the aforementioned locking mechanisms operate and the tools and techniques used to bypass them. Each chapter contains a healthy dose of black-and-white illustrations, so the reader has numerous references to visualize the instruments and systems described. Each chapter starts out explaining the basic theory behind how each lock category works and progressively builds on information from previous chapters.

The Verdict: Will you be an experienced locksmith by the time you finish this book? No more than you’d be an experienced doctor after you graduate with a degree in medicine. The next logical step, and the book encourages this, is to experiment with various locks and gain a tactile understanding of the methods and lock types described. However, the book does a good job explaining things clearly to give the reader a baseline of how common locks work and the differences between them.

Because the Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition is primarily focused on portable locks, it barely touched on dead bolts. Be that as it may, it’s bereft of security countermeasures, such as strike plates, security bars, and reinforcement locks. To be a bit more idealistic, the authors would’ve earned points with us if they’d included tips on defeating security latches commonly found on hotel room doors and older homes.

We were surprised there were no descriptions of different handcuff types and would’ve liked to have seen that included. It would’ve also been helpful if they’d included a few chapters dedicated to basic automotive locks. If you’re looking for information on electronically controlled locks, you won’t find it here. That’s a whole other animal involving a greater deal of technical savvy that this book isn’t intended to address.

Also, a page at the end of the book offers a DVD or VHS version of the book and is intended to be torn out and mailed in with payment info. What’s discouraging is that the website shown on the cover of the book is no longer active and a search for “Standard Publications” doesn’t turn up any info. It makes us wonder if the company has gone out of business since the book’s 2006 copyright. No such DVD or VHS could be found through an internet search either.

The book begins and ends with disclaimers about the potential legal implications of lockpicking, but understandably doesn’t go into detail about what exactly could provoke repercussions. Since laws change over time and vary from region to region, it’s basically letting the reader know it’s incumbent on them to do the research and make sure they aren’t breaking any laws.

Book & Author
Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition
by Mark McCloud and Gonzalez de Santos

Publisher
Standard Publications

MSRP
$20 (Amazon)

URL
N/A

Pages
208

Rating
Thrive
> Survive
Die

OFFGRID Library of Recommended Books

Hacking Google Maps with a Wagon Full of Smartphones

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You may have heard stories of foolish drivers obliviously following the directions from their map apps, only to end up stuck in the middle of nowhere. For example, last year nearly 100 drivers in Colorado ended up gridlocked in a muddy field after Google Maps redirected them there to circumvent a traffic jam. It’s easy to think that you’d never end up in that situation because you wouldn’t let a software glitch steer you off the pavement, but it might not be so simple. What if someone actively tricked your map app into redirecting you in a more subtle manner? This is exactly what happened when German performance artist Simon Weckert took to the streets of Berlin with a little red wagon full of smartphones.

Photo: SimonWeckert.com

Weckert’s plan was simple: he collected 99 used cell phones, loaded up Google Maps on each, and placed them in a wagon. Then he simply pulled the wagon down the road at walking pace, causing each phone to report a slow movement speed. This accumulation of data caused Google Maps to automatically turn the street from green to red, marking it as a traffic jam and redirecting nearby devices to a different route. He documented this in the video below:

This “virtual traffic jam” accomplished Weckert’s goal of creating “an impact in the physical world by navigating cars on another route to avoid being stuck in traffic.” He considered hacking Google Maps a form of performance art, and had no intention of harming anyone. However, others might use similar techniques for malicious purposes. Organized criminals could theoretically divert drivers away from an area to create a clear escape route, or worse yet, steer commuters into a choke point to create a real traffic jam prior to an attack. Consider how many people use Google Maps and similar apps on a daily basis, and you’ll understand the potential effects of such an incident.

Review: Nitecore HC35 and UT32 Headlamps

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Nighttime visibility is paramount in any emergency situation, but so is your manual dexterity. You’ve probably experienced this dilemma while trying to use a handheld flashlight and work with both hands. This often leads to attempts to balance the light on nearby objects, juggle it between hands, hold it in your teeth, or pinch it between your neck and shoulder. The obvious solution is to simply get a hands-free light that aims wherever you’re looking — in other words, a headlamp.

The Nitecore UT32 (top) and HC35 (bottom) are substantially different in size and purpose.

We’ve reviewed quite a few headlamps in the past, so we’re pretty well-acquainted with features we like and those we don’t. In our survival headlamp buyer’s guide in Issue 27, we gave our Top Pick award to the Nitecore HC65, so when we heard about two new models from that company, we were interested to try them out. The new Nitecore HC35 and UT32 occupy two different niches within the hands-free lighting market, so we’ll take a closer look at each headlamp below.

Nitecore HC35 Specs

If maximum output is what you’re looking for, the Nitecore HC35 delivers. It can produce a staggering 2,700 lumens from four CREE XP-G3 S3 LEDs.

The HC35 is able to achieve this impressive output as a result of its power source, a large 21700 3.6V 4,000mAh lithium-ion battery (included). This battery is thicker than the 18650s or CR123s you’ll find in most flashlights, and offers continuous discharge of 15 amps for up to 3 minutes. All that juice means there’s enough power to push the LEDs to their limits.

A 21700 lithium-ion battery (top) is noticeably larger than an 18650 or two CR123s.

The 21700 battery is rechargeable via a micro-USB port built into the flashlight housing, protected behind a rubber dust cover. A blue LED under the power button flashes to indicate charge level once a battery is inserted or when the light is disconnected from a USB charger.

An adapter sleeve is included to allow the HC35 to accept 18650/CR123 batteries.

In a pinch, the light can be powered by a single 18650 or two CR123s. These batteries are slimmer, so they’ll need to be placed inside the included adapter sleeve. It’s also worth noting that the 2,700-lumen Turbo mode can only be used with a 21700 or high-discharge 18650 (8A or greater output); standard 18650s and CR123s will be limited to 800-lumen High output.

The HC35’s modes are as follows:

  • Turbo – 2,700 lumens / 45 minutes**
  • High – 800 lumens / 3 hours
  • Medium – 270 lumens / 8 hours 15 minutes
  • Low – 40 lumens / 52 hours
  • Ultralow – 1 lumen / 1,200 hours
  • Strobe – 2,700 lumens
  • Beacon – 2,700 lumens
  • SOS – 2,700 lumens

**According to the manual, this run time was achieved with the Advanced Temperature Regulation disabled. More on this later.

The light includes a 21700 battery, 18650/CR123 adapter sleeve, micro USB cable, reversible pocket clip, and head strap with mounting clip. This light is IP68 rated (waterproof/dustproof) and impact-resistant. MSRP is $100.

Our Impressions of the HC35

This is easily the brightest headlamp we’ve ever used — it’s nearly triple the output of the 1,000-lumen HC65 we previously reviewed. If this were focused into a tight spot beam, we’d say it’d be overkill for most tasks, but the frosted lens and quad-LED setup of the HC35 spreads the light into an extremely broad flood beam. That makes it quite useful for hiking and other medium-range outdoor tasks.

However, there’s a catch to this massive output: it generates a lot of heat. In order to avoid damage to the LEDs and housing, Nitecore added cooling fins to the head and built in Advanced Temperature Regulation (ATR) programming. ATR regulates the light’s output “according to working conditions and the ambient environment” — in other words, it steps down brightness to prevent overheating. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, because most high-output LED flashlights have similar safeguards built in, but our testing of this feature left us surprised and confused.

We tested this by activating the 2,700-lumen Turbo mode in a 68°F (20°C) room. It took exactly 30 seconds for the light’s output to drop from the full 2,700 lumens. We immediately switched back to Turbo mode to see if brightness would step down even faster as heat built up, but it reduced output at the 30-second mark again the second time. A third attempt produced the same result — 30 seconds every time. The head didn’t feel hot or even significantly warm after this testing.

So, although the light can produce 2,700 lumens, we were unable to force it to do so for even one full minute. The manual’s fine print states that the 45-minute advertised run time in Turbo mode was achieved temperature regulation disabled (!). As far as we can tell, there’s no way to disable ATR on the production version of the flashlight. This is disappointing, since the light’s biggest selling point comes with such a huge caveat.

That said, we did appreciate the light’s multiple mounting options, including a magnetic tail cap and a reversible pocket clip that can be used to mount it on a belt, backpack strap, or shirt pocket. The headband is comfortable but the HC35 is quite heavy for a headlamp, so this definitely wouldn’t be our first choice for night hiking or extended active wear. We feel this light is best suited to situations where a wide swath of bright light is necessary for short periods — use at a campsite or during a power outage, for example.

The HC35’s quad-LED array and diffuser lens produce a very wide flood beam.

Pros:

  • Immensely bright in Turbo mode (for 30 seconds)
  • Wide beam is useful for close- to medium-range tasks
  • Large 21700 battery offers long runtime in High and Medium modes, with plenty of output

Cons:

  • 2,700-lumen max output almost useless in the real world as a result of its 30-second limiter
  • Large housing and heavy battery feel ungainly on the head during high-intensity activities
  • Its size and bulk are doubly annoying when you realize that this is effectively an 800-lumen headlamp with a brief 2,700-lumen Turbo boost. There are many smaller and more comfortable lights that can produce 800 to 1,000 lumens, as long as you can do without Turbo mode.

Nitecore UT32 Specs

The UT32 occupies the other end of the headlamp spectrum from the bulky HC35, having been specifically designed for trail runners. Nitecore calls it an “Ultra Compact Coaxial Dual-Output Headlamp” — the first bit of that name is pretty straightforward, but the “Coaxial Dual-Output” portion intrigued us. It turns out that the UT32’s head is split in half, with each side containing a separate LED and reflector assembly.

The first side of the Nitecore UT32 contains an 1,100-lumen TrueVision flood beam powered by a CREE XP-L2 V6 LED. This output offers a 5,700K color temperature, which is typically referred to as cool white. The reflector is designed to spread this light over a 100-degree area, mimicking the typical human field of view.

Above: The primary cool white and auxilary warm white LEDs are on opposing sides of the UT32’s head.

On the flipside of the UT32, there’s an auxiliary 920-lumen warm white spot beam. Nitecore says that scientific studies indicate this 3,000K color offers higher luminance contrast in low-visibility weather conditions — in other words, it does a better job cutting through fog and rain. Maximum throw with this warm white beam is 117 meters.

The UT32 is controlled by two buttons. Pressing both simultaneously turns on the light; pressing button A (the one with a raised bump) controls the cool flood beam; pressing button B (no bump) controls the warm spot beam. Each has the following modes:

  • Turbo – 1,100 lumens / 1 hour 30 minutes** with flood beam; 920 lumens / 1 hour 30 minutes** with spot beam
  • High – 410 lumens / 3 hours 45 minutes with flood beam; 370 lumens / 3 hours 45 minutes with flood beam
  • Medium – 200 lumens / 8 hours with flood beam; 170 lumens / 8 hours with spot beam
  • Low – 70 lumens / 18 hours with flood beam; 60 lumens / 18 hours with spot beam
  • Beacon – 1,100 lumens with flood beam; 920 lumens with spot beam
  • SOS – 1,100 lumens with flood beam; 920 lumens with spot beam

**According to the manual, this run time was achieved “with fan cooling, as a simulation of the trail running environment.”

The UT32 includes a headband with rubber mounting bracket, a pocket clip, and spare O-ring and switch covers. You’ll need to supply a power source, either an 18650 or a pair of CR123s. Nitecore kindly sent us one of its own 2,900mAh Low Temperature High Performance 18650 batteries, which includes a built-in micro-USB charge port. Like the HC35 and most other Nitecore lights, this light is IP68 waterproof/dustproof and impact-resistant. MSRP is $75.

Our Impressions of the UT32

In comparison to the HC35, the UT32 feels light and maneuverable. It weighs 2.9 ounces compared to the HC35’s 4.9 ounces, and Nitecore says its mount was designed to maintain an optimized center of gravity while running.

The stretchy headband was also clearly designed with runners in mind. It features breathable perforations and a silicone band to prevent sweat from running down into your eyes. We also appreciate the addition of reflective strips on the outside of the band. Nitecore’s site says these strips “effectively guarantee the safety of the wearer at night” — that seems a bit optimistic, but we can see how they’d improve your visibility on a dimly-lit road or trail.

As for the Coaxial Dual-Output design, we found ourselves using the cool white flood beam most of the time. It’s plenty bright for jogging, hiking, or just walking around a dark campsite. The spot beam has much better throw, but we’d call its 3,000K color a “pale yellow” more than a “warm white.” It does seem to cut through foggy or dusty conditions better than the white color, but not to the degree that we feel it’s a feature we couldn’t live without.

Frankly, we prefer a more traditional dual-output headlamp design with spot and flood LEDs on the same side (the Nitecore HC65 is a good example). It’s simpler to use and nearly as effective, without the complexity of two activation buttons, two opposing reflectors, and a housing that must be rotated depending on the light that’s in use. Still, for those who frequently run or hike in foggy or rainy conditions, the UT32 is a good option.

Pros:

  • An appealing choice for runners or hikers who need a long-lasting light source
  • Cool flood beam is broad enough for use as an area light, but bright enough to use in wide-open spaces
  • Warm spot beam cuts through low-visibility conditions, and nicely complements the flood beam’s pattern

Cons:

  • 3,000K light has one purpose — to cut through rain, snow, or fog. If you’re not frequently running in these adverse conditions, you’ll probably use the flood beam most of the time, in which case the second reflector and LED only serve to add complexity and weight.
  • With its 18650 battery, this setup is better-suited to long treks where runtime is a concern. For short jogs or casual early-morning hikes, an ultralight headlamp such as the Nitecore HA23, BioLite Headlamp 330, or Streamlight Bandit Pro might be preferable.

For more information on the Nitecore HC35 and UT32, go to Nitecore.com.

RECOILtv: KelTec Sub2000 CQB with Integral Suppressor

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If you’re setting up a gun for home defense or emergency use in an indoor environment, adding a suppressor is a great idea. Let’s say you’re awoken in the middle of the night and have to go investigate a possible intruder. You may not have time to put on ear protection, but a suppressed gun can save your hearing and maintain your situational awareness in the event that you’re forced to shoot. On the other hand, the blast from a bare muzzle in a small room might leave you dazed and disoriented. KelTec had this in mind when it developed the new Sub2000 CQB, which comes with an integral suppressor.

Those who know the Sub2000 are no doubt familiar with its folding forend. It’s useful for transporting and storing the gun, but it posed a problem for mounting an integrally-suppressed barrel that required more space. KelTec’s solution was to allow the Sub2000 CQB’s barrel to unlock and rotate before folding. This design also allows for an optic to be mounted permanently on the top rail without interfering with the folding mechanism.

The integral suppressor is said to be user-serviceable, so the baffles can be removed and cleaned. MSRP will be $995 for the standard Sub2000 CQB, but it may also be offered as a package with an optic, light, and laser for approximately $1400. For more information, go to KelTecWeapons.com. And for more videos on new guns and gear, go to RECOILweb.com.

TOPS Knives Street Spike

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When it comes to self-defense with a knife, there are a few things you should keep in mind. First, it’s virtually guaranteed to be messy — as the old saying goes, the winner of a knife fight usually goes to the hospital and the loser goes to the morgue. Second, there’s a high likelihood that your knife will become expendable, whether it takes damage after glancing off hard bone or it takes a ride to the morgue along with the aggressor’s body. Third, your defensive knife should be a simple tool, not some flashy blade decked out with spikes and serrations. These principles paint a clear picture of this tool’s desirable characteristics — easy to control, affordable, simple, and effective for piercing and slashing. TOPS Knives set out to accomplish this with its new Street Spike.

The TOPS Street Spike is formed from a 1/4-inch-thick piece of the company’s signature 1095 high-carbon steel, and hardened to 56-58 RC. The business end is ground to a simple 2.75-inch drop point, a versatile shape that’s proven its worth everywhere from campsites to kitchens to street fights. The handle is skeletonized and absent of scales to reduce weight, but it features prominent finger grooves and holes that can be used to add a DIY paracord wrap.

To add grip and reduce the risk of corrosion, TOPS finished the steel in textured Black Traction powdercoat. Each knife includes a black Kydex sheath and multi-position spring steel clip, though it’s said to be light enough to wear on a neck lanyard. MSRP is $100, but the Street Spike is currently available for $80 on the TOPS Knives site. As always, it’s made in the USA. For more information, go to TOPSknives.com.

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Video: Mike Glover’s Fundamentals of Solo CQB

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If something goes bump in the night in your home, how would you respond? Many of us would grab a handgun from the bedside and quietly go to investigate, clearing the house to determine whether that noise was just the dog knocking over a plant or an armed burglar stumbling over it. However, there are many considerations for how to clear a house safely and efficiently, especially when you’re doing so alone. In the following 30-minute video, Mike Glover of Fieldcraft Survival discusses some fundamental lessons for single-man CQB (close-quarters battle) that can apply to any solo room-clearing context.

Glover is a former Green Beret — go read our Survivalist Spotlight interview to get up to speed on his background. As a result, he has quite a bit of training and experience dealing with CQB scenarios. But he also understands that many of the principles of clearing a structure with a team, like a military unit or law enforcement squad, don’t directly apply to doing so on your own. “Remember that you don’t have a number two man in this case. It’s just you.”

Some of these lessons, such as thinking about angles and exposure, are easy to work on at home. Others, such as shooting with your non-dominant hand, may require substantial practice. As always, we recommend seeking out a qualified instructor and training regularly to confirm your skills. Because when something goes bump in the night, you’d better be prepared to deal with it.

Eureka Machines Metal Detectors

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This article was originally published in Issue 19.

Photos by Gordon D. Smith and courtesy of Barska

Maybe you weren’t expecting an article on this subject in RECOIL OFFGRID. But they’re everywhere. You’ve seen them in action on TV shows, at the beach, or on display at a local Radio Shack — well, at least when that franchise was still around. In fact, if you’ve been to court or flown on a commercial airliner in the past couple of decades or so, you’ve been scanned by one that’s the shape of a conspicuous doorframe.

Then why is it that people seem to view metal detectors as total bunk, just something eccentrics use to find buried pirate treasure but walk away with paperclips and spare change instead? What is a metal detector exactly? How does it work? And more importantly, how can it help the average prepper?

Besides being a fascinating hobby that gets you out of the house, there are potential possibilities where having and knowing how to use a good metal detector might come in quite handy. Therefore, we’re taking a closer look at these devices. Whether you’re just the curious type who wants to find out what’s hidden below the surface or you’re a serious prepper looking to extend your means of finding lost or valuable commodities after a crisis, you’ll no doubt uncover some interesting information in these pages.

How They Work

Born from scientific research into aircraft magnetic and directional navigation, these instruments can be analog, digital, or a combination. Even though the all-digital ones are preprogrammed, making them essentially plug ’n’ play, they still require a little study and practice if you ever wish to get good with them and elevate them above novelty toy status.

The basic idea is that an electromagnetic field flows out of the outer ring (transmitter) of the searchcoil and interacts with metal the coil passes over. This in turn generates a small electrical signal that the inner ring of the searchcoil (receiver) picks up.

Depending upon the type of searchcoil, the field can be doughnut shaped or basketball shaped or more of a narrow, focused field for specialized work.

Generally, modern detectors can detect a target buried 8 to 12 inches deep. Multiple factors can influence this: size of the coil, what materials are in the earth, the moisture content, quality of construction, size of the target, conductivity of the target, strength of the batteries, and whether the target is on edge or in a flat position.

Circuitry within the control box deciphers and filters the information and passes it along to both the visual display and a speaker to create an audible tone. The circuitry can discriminate between the types of metals detected and can be directed to ignore certain metals, such as iron and aluminum, and only pick up targets of more desirable metals.

Quality detectors fall into two main types: very low frequency (VLF), which operate in the range of 5 kHz to 30 kHz, and pulse induction (PI) units, which generate higher frequencies. These higher frequencies are more conducive to gold prospecting and less affected by ground minerals or wet, salty environments.

Why Work Them?

Let’s make this clear: Metal detectors won’t provide much help finding that cache of weapons and money secreted under a concrete floor, a la John Wick. Your detector would alert you to a lot of metal under that concrete, but you couldn’t discern if it was rebar or Keanu Reeves’ steely acting ability. After all, these aren’t X-ray specs.

However, what these instruments can do could be boon in dire times, such as:

  • Find hidden caches lost due to floods, shifting landmarks, poor logbook records, or just plain old forgetfulness.
  • Assist compatriots in locating their misplaced caches.
  • Prospect for valuable metals that can be used for bartering, especially if you have access to old gold mining tailings piles.
  • Locate underground pipes that could be tapped into for water (make certain you know they’re water pipes and not natural gas).
  • Work as improvised security wands for searching individuals when handheld units aren’t available.
  • Alert you to hidden nails, wires, cables, and other objects that could chew up your chainsaw blades if you’re clearing trees or obtaining lumber from unknown sources.
  • Detect mines and/or booby-traps. (Yes, this is an extreme and unlikely scenario. Needless to say, we’re by no means implying that an amateur should be out searching for land mines.)

What Should I Buy?

Look for metal detectors with bright displays so they’re easy to read on sunny days.

Obviously, what you’re looking for and how much you’re willing to spend on a unit will dictate what metal detector you’ll buy. But generally speaking, you’ll want to consider the following factors:

  • Light weight and balance
  • Availability of different searchcoils and ease of swapping them out for upgrades
  • Searchcoils with smooth edges, which won’t snag on grass and debris
  • Earphone jacks — standard 3.5mm is preferable
  • Bright displays for use during sunny days
  • Easy-to-reach and use keypads/controls
  • Attachment points for slings or straps
  • Carrying case
  • One-touch pinpoint capability

Other considerations include whether a model comes with any warranty and the ease of getting it repaired, which includes the location of service centers.

Oh, and do your needs require the detector to be submersible? Submersible models will work just as well out of water as under water.

You don’t have to spend really big bucks to get a good detector, although you can lay out more than $2,000 for the high-end models. Fortunately, the quality ones retain their value. And should you decide to upgrade, the aftermarket for them is good, with some specialty stores taking trade-ins for certain models.

Make & Model1. Barska Winbest Elite 2002. Barska Winbest3. Ground EFX MX4004. Ground EFX MX50
Searchcoil TypeConcentricConcentric“Double D”Concentric
SubmersibleOnly coil & shaftYesOnly coil & shaftOnly coil & shaft
Headphone jackNoneProprietary, waterproof3.5 mm3.5 mm
On-board tutorialsNoNoYesNo
Color ScreenNoNoYesNo
WarrantyOne yearOne yearOne yearOne year
MSRP$150$280$370$130
URLwww.barska.comwww.barska.comwww.groundefx.comwww.groundefx.com

Detecting a Technique

Initially, while learning what your detector can do, you want to set it to zero discrimination so it picks up all metals. Besides giving the operator an auditory tone when it receives a hit, the screen or meter will also reflect information about the target. Models equipped with LCD screens generally also provide information about the type of metal found and a relative depth.

Even though modern detectors take a lot of the guesswork out of getting started, it still takes practice to get really good with one.

Build a “test plot” on your own land. Seed it with different types of metals and coins at different depths, keeping each object about a foot away from the others. Clearly mark your test plot so you can easily return to it and listen to the tones generated while keeping an eye on the screen or meter.

Underground Rules

A word about proper etiquette: Unless you’re prospecting your own land, there are a few rules that need to be observed when metal detecting. First and foremost, get permission to be on private land. If you do have permission, unless you have a written agreement that you can keep what you find, anything you find belongs to the landowner. No debate.
Here are some other tenets to abide by:

  • Replace your divots: Don’t unintentionally leave a potential ankle-breaking trap.
  • Pack it out: Bring trash bags and leave the place cleaner than you found it.
  • Know the laws: If you’re on public land, there are only certain things you can legally collect and remove.
  • Respect all property
  • Never trespass
  • Keep a logbook of your finds and the location so you can easily return.
  • Be mindful of underground utilities — they could be harmful to your health!

Beep, Beep! Now What?

To narrow down exactly where you need to dig, pinpoint the signal. Move the searchcoil in a north-south/east-west pattern, listening and looking at the meter for the strongest tone. When you scan over something that the detector indicates is large and possibly made of a desirable metal, it’s best to start with a probe, like an old screwdriver. Probing lets you determine if there really is something below the soil at the depth indicated and avoids the need to dig an unnecessary hole.

If you decide to dig, one of the tenets of the hobby is to not leave a bunch of ankle-breaking holes in your wake — which can also be a dead giveaway of your position if you’re trying to stay low profile in a long-term, post-SHTF scenario. The best way to do this and also not kill the vegetation is to cut a plug. Plugs are cut by going half to two-thirds of the diameter of the hole you’re digging down about 3 to 4 inches and simply flipping the cut plug up.

It should allow you to continue probing and digging for your treasure. When done, replace the loose dirt and flip the plug back in place. (By the way, that’s a good tip if you have to repair a sprinkler head in your yard, too.)

A key note once you’ve secured said find: no field cleaning! Don’t attempt to clean valuable items until you’re back home; mistakes can reduce value of the find. Record the find and location in your log. If your detector features GPS capability, lock in the coordinates so you can return to the exact spot again.

Above: Not bad for a lunch hour at the park playground … 9mm casings were a disturbing find, though good if you’re in a post-SHTF scenario and can reload your own ammo.

Final Thoughts

The author’s home state of Colorado is dotted with more than 1,500 ghost towns. That’s as close a figure as can be determined due to poor recordkeeping back in those boomtown days. Unsubstantiated legends abound as well.

Unfortunately, many are located on BLM or state park lands, and laws — starting with the American Antiquities Act of 1906 — prevent the treasure hunter from removing anything from those areas with just a few exceptions (such as U.S. coins minted less than 100 years ago). However, some are located on private property and, with permission, could yield some very historical or valuable items.

When you go out coin shooting or prospecting, you’ll need these basic items besides the actual detector: hand pinpointer, probe, trowel, knee pads, knife, log book and pen, golf tees, and sharpened pencils or surveyor’s flags (for marking locations). Plus, a flashlight, gloves, spare batteries, and trash bags are all essentials in your kit. A sifter is necessary if you’re heading for the beach.

Lastly, these units are mostly made up of modern plastics and don’t require a lot of care and feeding. If storing for a while, be certain to remove the batteries and place the unit on a shelf or someplace where it cannot fall or be stepped on. Also avoid storing where it will be subjected to high heat, such as a furnace room.

Local clubs are a great source of information and expertise. Some may even have access to private lands. Also, the old-timers can save you a lot of headaches by cluing you in on nuances of local laws. Metal detecting has become a popular hobby for thousands of folks around the world as well. Europe is a big detecting country — so much so that White Electronics has even opened a plant in Scotland to meet the demand.

Sources

KADRI Clothing Valkyrie Pants for Women

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We’ve often heard ladies expressing frustration over clothing that offers an imbalance of form and function — either it looks good and fits well but lacks functional pockets and durable materials, or it has those desirable features but fits poorly and looks extremely unflattering. This is an understandable source of frustration, since the majority of shooting and duty-oriented apparel seems to be designed for men first, then redesigned to fit women as an afterthought. In November 2019, the founders of KADRI Clothing set out to solve this problem with the creation of their first product, the women’s Valkyrie pants.

KADRI Clothing was founded by female U.S. Special Operations Forces veterans, including OFFGRID contributor Eryn Chase. They often found themselves tailoring men’s pants in order to get the features they wanted — moisture-wicking, quick-drying, breathable, and abrasion-resistant fabric as well as plenty of pockets. Eventually, this led them to start from scratch and create their own Valkyrie pants.

The KADRI Clothing Valkyrie pants feature 72 different size combinations thanks to the company’s signature WHVR Matrix sizing system. Ladies can simply measure their waist, hips, and inseam, and KADRI uses these measurements to find the right size. The Valkyrie pants also feature stretchy gussets in the crotch and waist to improve flexibility and comfort, plus numerous reinforcements to maximize durability. And, of course there’s an abundance of pockets (11, to be exact).

The Valkyrie field pants are made in the USA and currently available in High Desert Field Tan and Titan Grey. MSRP is $220. For more information, go to KADRIclothing.com.

Kershaw Tumbler Folding Knife

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While walking the aisles at SHOT Show, we stopped by the Kershaw/Zero Tolerance knives booth to see what new products these brands had on display. While each had an array of brand-new and recently-released designs to show us, one knife in particular caught our attention: the Kershaw Tumbler.

This folder feels almost like a crossover between Kershaw and the high-end ZT line, since several of its features exceed those present on the typical $60 folders you may be familiar with. The blade is made of D2, a high-carbon tool steel that we’d consider an upgrade from the 8Cr13MoV stainless Kershaw has been using in the past. Its handle is machined from G10 with a thin decorative layer of carbon fiber built into the resin, and it connects to the blade via a smooth KVT ball bearing pivot.

The Kershaw Tumbler was designed by Dmitry Sinkevich, and exhibits the characteristic curvature seen in other Sinkevich designs (like the ZT 0462 we previously reviewed). However, we appreciate that the blade is broad and the curvature is mild, making this a knife that seems like a practical choice for EDC.

This knife is finished with a sub-frame lock, lanyard hole, and deep carry pocket clip (reversible for left- or right-handed tip-up carry). The Tumbler will be available soon at an MSRP of $110. For more info, go to KershawKnives.com.

5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. Footwear

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At SHOT Show 2020, we stopped by the 5.11 Tactical booth to check out some of the new products the company launched at the show. One of the most notable announcements was a major addition to the 5.11 footwear line, known as the new A.T.L.A.S. series. These shoes and boots bridge the gap between military-style duty gear and sport-oriented consumer footwear, and they place a strong emphasis on comfort while carrying heavy loads.

A.T.L.A.S. stands for All Terrain Load Assistance System, which speaks to this purpose. Most of us have experienced foot soreness while hiking or walking with a loaded backpack — all that weight is distributed onto the soles of your feet. 5.11 Tactical addressed this issue by combining a proprietary high-rebound foam with a stiff A.T.L.A.S. support plate. The plate is designed to spread your weight and offer stability, while the foam cushions each step.

The 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line has initially launched with three models: low-cut trainer, mid-cut boot, and 8-inch boot. The latter is available in standard and side-zip variants. Note: the trainer does not include the stiffened support plate, and is therefore better-suited to comfort with lighter packs.

These models will be offered in black and dark coyote tan. MSRP is $120 for the trainer, $140 for the mid-cut boot, and $150 for the 8-inch boot. We’ve already snagged a pair of the trainer shoes, so we’ll be trying them out soon and reporting back with our thoughts.

For more information on the 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line, go to 511tactical.com.