In the ever-evolving world of survival and preparedness, the wisdom of experience often provides the most valuable insights. For this reason, we've tapped into our community of avid readers as a resource for survival knowledge, and are sharing tips that stand out for their simplicity and effectiveness. This Readers' Survival Tip comes all the way from the United Kingdom, and is an excellent take on Every Day Carry (EDC).
Readers' Bio
Name/Alias: British Bill
Location: U.K.
Age: 67
Above: British Bill's EDC layout – Analogue wrist watch(1), Gerber Artifact Mini-Tool(2), folding knife(3), CRKT low-profile pocket knife(4), black sharpie(5), tactical pen(6), Victorinox dual knife sharpening pen(7), Nebo flashlight(8), lighter(9), double gated S-biner(10), USB flash drive(11), Gerber multi-tool(12), sunglasses(13).
British Bill's Survival Tip
Defining EDC, I advise new preppers that ESSENTIAL CORE EDC items MUST go on the PERSON and never in bags, rucks etc. I advise them to imagine that, during a sudden incident, they are separated from their EDC bag, Bug Out Bag, Get Home Bag, etc., and must survive ONLY with what they have on their persons (i.e., whatever is in their pants/shirt/jacket pockets, or worn on their belt/shoulder holster).
So, PDW (where legal) Knife(3), Lighter(9), Flashlight(8), Compass, Cell Phone, Wallet, Shades(13), Keys, Pen(6), Notebook, Kerchief, Gloves, Hat, Cash, Paracord, Micro FAC etc. These CORE essentials remain on the person at all times, whilst the secondary gear can go in a bag or pack, and third level gear in vehicle/office/home/cache. In many circumstances, it's just too easy for the citizen to be separated from their CORE EDC gear at the worst possible time.
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Compared to most animals, humans are extremely fragile. We don’t have sharp claws and teeth for hunting, and we lack the powerful sense of smell and ultra-precise eyesight other apex predators are equipped with. Most importantly, when you strip away the insulated fabrics and durable footwear we’ve spent thousands of years developing, we can’t rely on tough hide or warm fur.
Our exposed bodies are virtually defenseless against environmental factors such as wind, rain, cuts and scratches, and insect pests.
Even the most experienced survivalists shudder at the thought of being stranded in the wilderness with no clothing and minimal tools. This concept led to the development of Discovery’s survival TV series Naked and Afraid, which has aired 15 seasons over the last 10 years. On the show, each contestant is paired up with a stranger and dropped off in a challenging environment for 21 days (or 40 for the spinoff Naked and Afraid XL).
Locations have included every continent except Antarctica, ranging from swamps to grasslands and from deserts to rainforests. Although a camera crew is present during the day, they’re not allowed to intervene unless there’s a medical emergency; at night, the contestants must film themselves using a provided camera.
In order to learn more about the actual reality behind this “reality TV” survival series, we spoke with three former contestants: Zach Benton, Hakim Isler, and Melissa Miller. Read on as they discuss their experiences, struggles, and lessons learned from Naked and Afraid.
Zachary Benton
Above: Zach during his Naked and Afraid challenge in Colombia.
Age: 38
Hometown: Jarrell, Texas
What season(s) did you participate in? Where did you go?
I was on Season 14, Episode 2, “Haunted and Hungry.” It took place in Cartagena, Colombia.
Tell us a little about your survival skills background going into the show.
I grew up on a 3,300-acre cattle ranch playing mountain man and Boy Scout as a kid. I learned a lot about fieldcraft and autonomy in nature as a Scout Sniper in the Marine Corps. Wilderness survival became a favorite topic of study as an adult chasing adventure, and when the opportunity to do the NAA challenge came up, I read 18 books in three months to prepare.
We understand each contestant was allowed to bring one item. What did you bring, and why?
For this season, each contestant was required to bring four items. We handed them over when we arrived in Colombia, and the producers picked what my partner and I would get for our challenge. I took a tarp, knife, pot, and ferrocerium fire-starter. What they ended up giving us was a mosquito net, pot, knife, and fire-starter.
Exposure is a serious threat in any outdoor setting, and nudity is the ultimate form of exposure. What challenges did being naked pose?
The primary issue with being naked in the jungle is the bugs. I was there in August, and the temperatures were only low during the big rainstorms, so maintaining core temperature wasn’t too difficult. The other big problem was my feet. The jungle is blanketed in a layer of thorns, and my feet were swollen, sore, and filled with edema.
One of the books I read leading up to the trip was Native American basket weaving, so on day eight I wove a pair of shoes out of grass and tree bark. To be able to walk normally lifted a huge weight off the mental aspect of the challenge.
Above: Prior to the challenge, Zach read more than a dozen books on survival skills, including one about Native American basket weaving. He used the knowledge to weave this pair of sandals from grass and bark.
It’s in the name, so we’ve got to ask. Were you afraid out there? Tell us about the psychological impact of the scenario you faced and how you dealt with it.
I never felt like I was in any direct danger. I could hear the caiman in the swamp and the howler monkeys swung through the treetops around my camp, screaming every morning and evening, but I never felt afraid. Being alone at night in the jungle, naked, with nothing but a knife certainly presented all the reasons I needed if I wanted to freak out, but I managed to control my thoughts enough to not let it consume me.
The psychological difficulty for me was my personal life. I had just got home from Kabul a month prior. Before I left again for Colombia, my 3-year-old crawled into my lap and thanked me for coming to visit him. I’d been deploying overseas back and forth all his life, so he didn’t understand that I lived there. It was a heavy thought to carry into the jungle and sit with for 21 days, 17 of them solo.
What were your survival priorities going into the show? How did they change once you were out in the field?
Priorities going in were fire, water, shelter, food, security. The order didn’t really change but it took me way longer than I expected to resolve fire, water, and shelter. Food and security took a backseat, which is why I lost 30 pounds. The jungle was filled with wood-eating ants and so every dead stick I found — whether off the ground or in the trees — was completely eaten from within.
I could burn it, but it gave me no coals, just ash, and only lasted 20 minutes. This dilemma kept me shackled to camp for the majority of the first 10 days because without fire I couldn’t sterilize the water and without water, well…
With every reality TV show, we always wonder if events are scripted or if producers intervene to make the show more exciting. Did you experience anything like that?
No, it’s definitely not scripted, not for me anyway. The only things a viewer that has an eye for production might notice are shots on the insertion or extraction because they will request your cooperation on the hike so they can get cool-looking footage.
Above: Zach’s knife of choice is a customized TOPS Knives SXB fixed blade originally designed by fellow Naked and Afraid contestant EJ Snyder, who we interviewed in RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 24.
What was it like attempting to survive alongside a partner you had never met before?
My partner was very nice, but she didn’t stay very long. We worked together pretty well but she got sick on day two and left at sunrise on day four. The remaining 17 days I completed alone. I’m grateful for that experience. I would have spent the rest of my life wanting to know if I could do it alone, but it would have been much more enjoyable to have had someone to share it with.
How did your time on the show end, and what survival lessons did you walk away with?
My last few days were a transition from grinding each day to maximize productivity to managing the bare necessities in an effort to not get hurt. The lack of food and muscular atrophy had me stumbling around, and my knife flew out of my hand a number of times chopping wood. It became an issue of risk mitigation to make sure I made it to 21 days without something stupid happening at the end.
Above: After 21 days naked in the jungle, Zach was caked in dirt from head to toe and had lost 30 pounds.
Please tell us about your latest projects and where we can follow you online.
My latest projects include the FTW Ranch Podcast. I’m a precision rifle and hunting instructor at the FTW Ranch, a 12,000-acre fortress in Barksdale, Texas, with 36 shooting ranges scattered through deep canyons in the hill country, jungle/safari hunting courses with charging buffalo, elephants, plains game, and a maximum of two miles of range.
We host everything from Tier 1 sniper training to some new hunter classes with exotic game to hunt and a professional chef to teach the preparation.
I have another podcast hosting opportunity for Zero Foxtrot in the works to tell amazing stories of moments that required full commitment, where zero f*cks could be given, in the face of triumph or defeat.
Lastly, in December, I partnered with a director who has rewritten a book of mine into a movie. Oddly, I never finished writing the book, but it has been an adventure to be a part of that process and an honor to have a team of people helping me make it happen.
Hakim Isler
Above: Once he headed into the wilderness, Hakim says his priorities quickly diverged from his expectations. Adaptability became an important part of his survival skillset.
Age: 46
Hometown: I grew up in Newark, New Jersey. I currently live in Fayetteville, North Carolina, just outside Fort Bragg (now Fort Liberty).
What season(s) did you participate in? Where did you go?
I participated in two seasons of Naked and Afraid. I went to the Himalayan Mountains in India on Season 3, and then I was on the first 40-day challenge in the Colombian jungle.
Tell us a little about your survival skills background going into the show.
I didn’t have any real background growing up in New Jersey — I come from the concrete jungle, not the real jungle [laughs]. When I moved to Ohio, I moved specifically to train in ninja martial arts under Stephen K. Hayes, who brought ninjutsu to America. While I was there, we did outdoor and wilderness experiential training based on our lineage. That was where I got my first taste of outdoor training.
Then, I joined the Army and began with land navigation and things of that nature. I went to SERE school and learned more about wilderness survival from a tactical perspective, as well as just survival in general. When I got out of the military, a friend of mine had a survival school, and I worked there for a little while, helping out and learning from them. Then, the Naked and Afraid opportunity came up, and I jumped into that.
We understand each contestant was allowed to bring one item. What did you bring, and why?
That’s a very interesting question. I had designed an ax called the Tengu. The tengu is a mythological, benevolent creature — like half man, half crow — that was believed to live in the wilderness of Japan. Some legends have it that they taught the ninjas in these villages skills related to how to use nature to their advantage. I thought it was fitting to name this ax the Tengu, since it was going to be with me on this journey of becoming one with nature.
The Tengu ax had multiple surfaces and features added to it — a skinning knife on top, a notch-maker, a cutting surface, and a hooking surface to pick up logs and look under them without putting your hand under them. That was probably the greatest choice I’ve made, because we cut, skinned, chopped, scraped, everything with it. I wanted something versatile, so that’s why I designed it.
Exposure is a serious threat in any outdoor setting, and nudity is the ultimate form of exposure. What challenges did being naked pose?
They were extremely significant. According to the “law of threes,” you can only handle three hours of extreme exposure before you’re either dead or dying. So, being in an environment like the Himalayas that was in the 30s at night and 60s during the day, that was very intense. It created challenges like not wanting to move, because even a small breeze would result in shivering.
Then, there was the fact that we didn’t have shoes on, so constant walking around and getting stabbed on the bottom of our feet over long periods of time was overwhelming. It also forced us to move slowly. Having bugs land all over us and on our private areas and not being able to do anything about it was also very difficult.
People say all the time, “Well, why didn’t you make clothes?” Because the environment was so harsh, making clothes was the low thing on the totem pole. Just to make it through the night, clothes weren’t going to do it — we needed fire. I had to be collecting firewood all day — enough for 13 hours of darkness — and in between I had to take water breaks to make sure I was hydrated (that was a task in itself). It was not an easy task.
It’s in the name, so we’ve got to ask. Were you afraid out there? Tell us about the psychological impact of the scenario you faced and how you dealt with it.
I don’t think I was necessarily afraid of creatures or the environment or anything like that, the issue of fear was just “Am I going to be able to make it? Am I going to be able to survive? What if I get sick? What if I get injured?” All those things weigh on you psychologically, because you know you have so much to do. I just tried to do the best I could and make sure I didn’t make an idiot out of myself on national TV. [Laughs]
Above: Hakim designed this Tengu ax and brought it with him on Naked and Afraid. Its versatile design and multiple cutting surfaces helped with a variety of survival tasks.
What were your survival priorities going into the show? How did they change once you were out in the field?
That’s a beautiful question, because I had all the priorities, and I had it all figured out. I had practiced at home on my own in the wilderness. I was like, “OK, day one, I know I’m going to be hydrated and full, so all I have to worry about is making sure I find a spot to build a nice shelter. Day two, I’m going to find some water, because I know that’s going to be the next important thing on the list.
Day three, I’m going to build some shoes so I can move around quickly. Day four, I’m going to start looking for some sources of food while thinking about what I can use for some sort of clothing.” None of that happened.
On the first day, we had very little daylight left by the time we got to our destination. We had to pull together a shelter and a fire as soon as possible so we could make it through the night. And then it was just catch-up from there. Once we felt how cold it was that first night, we had to really reinforce our shelter. My partner was sick with a stomach virus from some water she drank, so we had to deal with that.
Then, we had to find drinkable water, because we were at high altitude and had been moving a lot, and that affected us more than we thought. And then like I said, trying to find firewood and keep ourselves warm was the major priority, especially once we realized there wasn’t a lot of food out there and it was so cold.
With every reality TV show, we always wonder if events are scripted or if producers intervene to make the show more exciting. Did you experience anything like that?
There wasn’t a lot of intervention. However, the producers do come out and ask you questions. Some of those questions can be a little guiding, as if they’re trying to see if there’s any tension. They’re trying to pull that out. So, there’s a little bit of that manipulation. But I didn’t personally feel like the producers were trying to create anything that wasn’t there.
That was my experience back then, but of course they’re on season 15 or 16 now. It’s a whole different world now, so I don’t know what it would be like today.
What was it like attempting to survive alongside a partner you had never met before?
That was one of the toughest things. You’ve got two people who’ve never met each other, who don’t know what each other’s personalities are, trying to survive this really chaotic situation. It was beyond challenging. We ended up pulling it together, but in those first few days, it was really difficult. She was sick, dealing with those issues. I was trying to deal with her being sick, and also deal with my own issues of trying to make a plan and get it done.
How did your time on the show end, and what survival lessons did you walk away with?
My times on the show ended well. Well, I had a hard time with the second one in Colombia, but the first one in the Himalayas I think I did good. But both changed my entire life. They taught me what was really important, and changed the trajectory of who I am. They also caused me to want to start this thing called the Soil Foundation, which is a nonprofit organization.
I own 100 acres of land in North Carolina, and I’ve been taking people out and giving them wilderness experiences. Ultimately, I want to do more experiential training out on the property. We are able to provide getaways for people to explore their deeper inner self, so that they can awaken to some of the things that they may have been hiding from themselves due to all the distractions we have in our society.
That was probably the greatest survival skill — recognizing who I am deep down. People need to know that if they’re going to survive any type of real hardship.
Please tell us about your latest projects and where we can follow you online.
I have two awesome projects. Like I said, I created the Soil Foundation. It is a wilderness therapy organization where we specialize in providing outdoor wilderness experiential retreats to help people find out things about themselves and come to terms with things, and hopefully heal from any past trauma in that process. We’re also trying to raise money for a conference center and event space made out of shipping containers.
If you’d like to assist with that or donate, you can go to our website, thesoilfoundation.org.
The next thing is Survive University, my online survival platform. It deals with everything from how to survive based on finances, how to survive based on emotion and psychology, and how to survive based on physicality — wilderness and bushcraft things as well as self-defense. That’s at surviveuniversity.com.
Above: Publicity photo prior to the 40-day challenge in Africa (Photo courtesy of David E. West).
Age: 34
Hometown: Fenton, MI
What season(s) did you participate in? Where did you go?
Season 7 (21 days): Ecuador, Amazon Rainforest; Season 4 Naked and Afraid XL (40 days): South Africa; and Season 10 (21 days): Florida Swamplands
Tell us a little about your survival skills background going into the show.
Growing up, I was always outdoors and that followed me into adulthood. A lot of my life was spent on a lake where I learned how to fish. After graduating college, I taught outdoor education and wilderness survival classes at a nature preserve for several years. I got really passionate about primitive survival, which coincided with me applying for the show.
We understand each contestant was allowed to bring one item. What did you bring, and why?
An inside fact about Naked and Afraid is that the producers actually asked us to bring four items to location. They ultimately chose which one went on the show with us. Production also provides one item depending on what items the survivalists are given.
In Ecuador, I had my hand-fishing line. The fish are abundant there, and it fed us well throughout the three weeks we were on location. I ate lots of red-bellied piranha.
In South Africa, I brought my bow. It was a vintage Bear Archery Kodiak Hunter. I went with the intention of hunting big game, but it ended up providing us food in a different way — catfish. I’d take daily walks to a watering hole with it and bow fish catfish there. On this challenge, we were also allowed a knife, and I brought my TOPS Knives B.O.B Fieldcraft knife.
In the Everglades, both items out there ended up being mine. I actually found out who my partner was going to be ahead of time, and I gave him my Nepalese Khukuri before we went on location. I brought my fire-starter.
Above: Melissa playing with critters in the Amazon before her first challenge.
Exposure is a serious threat in any outdoor setting, and nudity is the ultimate form of exposure. What challenges did being naked pose?
Being naked is what separates this show from any other survival challenge. It’s indescribably miserable. Every inch of your body is at constant exposure to moisture, cold temperatures, and bugs. In environments like the Amazon rainforest, I was a food source for countless mosquitoes. Leafcutter ants are everywhere there and are quick to bite anything in their path.
In South Africa, every other step is a thorn in the foot. There were some very cold nights there in which having partners to share body heat with saved me.
In the Everglades, I was covered in poison ivy. The mosquitoes sucked there too (no pun intended).
It’s in the name, so we’ve got to ask. Were you afraid out there? Tell us about the psychological impact of the scenario you faced and how you dealt with it.
Psychologically, the most difficult things for me were the boredom and the rain. One day feels like a week out there — I really cannot emphasize how slowly time goes by. Without distractions, you very quickly realize what and who is important in your life.
My biggest fear out there was never the animals; it was the rain. Rain threatens your fire, your shelter’s integrity, and your core body temperature. A really rainy environment is, in my experience, the most difficult and miserable environment to survive in.
What were your survival priorities going into the show? How did they change once you were out in the field?
My priorities were to establish a good shelter, get a sustainable fire set up, and to not get sick or infected with parasites. Maintaining fire out there was a priority and an unexpected obsession, especially in the rainforest where it’s so hard to start a fire. Keeping a fire provided warmth, food, comfort, entertainment, water, and protection from insects and animals.
Above: “After Ecuador, hundreds of thorns were embedded in my feet. My hands were burnt, callused, and growing nail fungus.”
With every reality TV show, we always wonder if events are scripted or if producers intervene to make the show more exciting. Did you experience anything like that?
Interaction with production and crew is very limited. There were times where producers might ask us to go on a hunt or do something entertaining for that day. And of course, they might try to facilitate some sort of drama with their interview questions. When we did the 40-day challenge, the editing made it look like there was some sort of deep internal tribe conflict (there wasn’t).
At times I was disappointed to see so much of the editing went toward drama and conflict rather than survival. But I understand it’s TV, and drama/conflict is entertaining.
What was it like attempting to survive alongside a partner you had never met before?
You are placed in an extremely stressful survival situation and trying to work through it with a total stranger. The first day is really rough — you only have a few hours to (hopefully) establish shelter and fire before nightfall, and you need to make all of these really fast decisions and execute them as a cooperative team, or you’re screwed.
In my first challenge, it was really difficult at first because we had totally different approaches to survival. My partner’s background was in the military and mine was in primitive survival/bushcraft. By the end, we figured out how to work well together and became lifelong friends after the show. I stay in touch with all of my previous partners to this day.
Above: “Growing up on a lake helped me learn about fishing from a young age. This knowledge provided a big part of my food supply during the survival challenges.”
How did your time on the show end, and what survival lessons did you walk away with?
I completed all my challenges successfully and learned a lot. A few things that really stick out:
A waterproof shelter where you live might not be waterproof in the Amazon rainforest.
Most of your energy doesn’t go toward exciting things like hunting; it goes toward getting firewood.
Primitive survival is so much trial and error. It’s tedious, time-consuming, frustrating, and stressful, but extremely rewarding once you get it right.
Your body can almost always push further than you think it can.
Above: Returning to the hotel after 40 days in Africa. “I felt like a wild animal.”
Please tell us about your latest projects and where we can follow you online.
I work for the World’s Largest Knife Show, BLADE Show alongside BLADE Magazine doing social media and digital marketing. I’m also on YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook as @MelissaBackwoods where I’m actively reviewing knives and survival gear daily.
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In our quest to build a comprehensive repository of survival tips, we're reaching out to you – our knowledgeable community. Your unique survival tips, techniques, and experiences are invaluable, and we're excited to invite you to share them with us and our readers. Your wisdom could be the key to someone's safety and success in challenging situations.
How You Can Contribute Tips
Your Best Survival Tips: Whether it's a clever way to signal for help, an innovative approach to sourcing food in the wilderness, or an effective method to stay warm in extreme conditions, your personal know-how is crucial. Share your practical advice and help us enrich our collective knowledge.
Personal Survival Stories: Real-life situations where you were put to the test are incredibly powerful stories. Share your experiences and let others learn from your challenges and triumphs in survival scenarios.
Engage in Q&A: Know of any survival myths you see people fall for? Or perhaps you have answers to others' survival dilemmas? Our community is an excellent platform for exchanging information, fostering a culture of learning and preparedness.
The Impact of Your Contributions
By sharing your survival tips, you're not only enriching our resource pool but also empowering others with knowledge that could be critical in emergencies. Your contribution helps us all to be better prepared and informed.
Submit Your Survival Tips Now
Ready to share your survival tips? Just [click here] to access our easy-to-use submission form. Whether it's a brief survival tip or an elaborate story, we're eager to hear from you!
Together, let's create a haven of survival wisdom and keep the spirit of preparedness alive!
In the realm of survival, adaptability is key. The carabiner, a simple yet versatile tool, offers more than meets the eye. This article delves into how a standard locking carabiner can transform into a practical self-defense device.
Utility Meets Defense
While firearms and knives are conventional self-defense tools, carabiner knuckles offer a discreet alternative. Perfectly legal in most areas, these tools blend into your daily carry, allowing for defense readiness in various settings.
While not as traditional as firearms or blades, carabiners offer a covert advantage. Their everyday appearance and legality in most places make them a suitable option for self-protection in various environments.
Caution: Before incorporating any tool for self-defense, it’s essential to understand your local laws. Such items should only be used in dire situations and with full awareness of the legal implications.
Carabiner knuckles are a convenient improvised self-defense tool. Most of us know of the potential that brass knuckles, knuckle dusters, or “knucks” have to inflict massive damage with a single strike. These purpose-built knucks (and even so-called “decorative keychains” or “paperweights”) are typically restricted by local weapon laws, similar to blades and firearms. However, carrying an ordinary carabiner on your backpack, water bottle, or keys is generally legal.
Above: A locking collar will prevent the carabiner from opening unexpectedly.
Carabiners are generally perceived as benign, unlike brass knuckles or similar devices, which may face legal restrictions. This makes them a discreet yet effective option for defense. For optimal use, choose a carabiner that comfortably fits all fingers and has a locking collar to prevent accidental opening. High-strength aluminum or steel carabiners are recommended for their durability.
Legal Considerations
It’s crucial to verify local laws before using carabiner knuckles for self-defense. Their use is intended strictly for critical situations, with an understanding of the legal ramifications.
Carabiner knuckles, unlike regular brass knuckles, navigate legal restrictions due to their primary function as a tool. When selecting a carabiner for self-defense, prioritize one that fits all fingers comfortably and includes a locking mechanism to prevent accidental opening. Opt for robust materials like high-strength aluminum or steel for durability.
Conclusion
Carabiner knuckles embody the essence of ingenuity in self-defense. While adopting such a tool, remember the importance of responsible use and adherence to legal guidelines.
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As civilians, we often find ourselves envious of all the high-tech equipment that's only accessible to military organizations. From innovative weapons and communication systems to cutting-edge vehicles and aircraft, costly new technology is often developed for military use first, and eventually trickles down to the civilian market as it becomes more common and affordable. This can be seen across the board in many industries. Even the internet that you're using right now was originally funded by the U.S. Department of Defense.
Above: This “side-by-side” Ranger Northstar is a two-occupant off-road utility vehicle produced by Polaris.
Tracked Side by Side
If you've ever looked into purchasing a small off-road vehicle, you've likely heard of Polaris. The company has been producing ATVs, snowmobiles, and side-by-side vehicles for decades in the commercial market. However, you may not know that Polaris also has a large division focused on the development of military vehicles: Polaris Defense.
Above: The Rampage is no ordinary side-by-side vehicle. It's not even available to the general public.
Recently, Polaris Defense has been working in conjunction with the Canadian military to develop a new “Twin-Track Fully-Suspended Amphibious Terrain Vehicle”. It's known as the Polaris Rampage, and it's designed to traverse virtually any type of terrain. The Canadian military needed a small and agile vehicle that could handle dirt, sand, mud, water, snow, and ice, even in sub-zero Arctic conditions. Polaris drew on its experience developing wheeled vehicles and snowmobiles, and delivered.
Above: The Polaris Rampage has undergone extensive testing in the arctic. Photo: Defence Research and Development...
The Rampage is powered by a 1000cc Polaris RZR engine under its rear deck, which can propel the vehicle to over 60mph. It also uses a standard steering wheel to control the rotation of its dual tracks, and it can rotate 360 degrees on its own axis.
The rear deck we mentioned earlier is designed to accommodate a shipping pallet for transporting gear over rough terrain. With doors installed, the fully-enclosed and heated cab can keep occupants comfortable and safe in freezing conditions. There are even charging ports for laptops and other electronics.
Rampage In Action
The Rampage is not available to the public at this time, and is exclusively a military-spec project. However, the editors of Dirt Trax Television got their hands on one for some initial testing, and called it “a complete force to be reckoned with”:
Based on what we've seen so far, we hope that Polaris eventually brings the Rampage to the civilian market. At the very least, we're sure some of its innovations will continue to make their way into the company's commercial and recreational side-by-sides in the near future.
FAQ
Q: Are tracks on a side by side worth it? A: Tracks let you take your all-terrain or utility vehicle off trails, in deep snow or just about anywhere else you want to go, but they can still get stuck.
Q: Can you put ATV tracks on a UTV? A: Yes. Certain brands of tracks can be configured for both.
Q: How fast can you go with tracks on a side by side? A:In general, however, and in ideal conditions, you can get around 40 miles per hour.
Q: How much does it cost to put tracks on an ATV? A:You can purchase track kits perform the installation yourself. Track kits cost anywhere between $2,000 and $5,000 depending on the kit.
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Humans have been making clothing with built-in pockets since at least 1200 AD, when our ancestors started cutting slits in their tunics to access coin purses or keys stashed in their undergarments. However, the concept of storing tools on a belt is far older than that of carrying them in our clothes. The frozen body of Ötzi the iceman, who is believed to have died between 3400 and 3100 BC, was found clad in a leather belt. Pouches sewn onto his belt contained a scraper, drill, awl, and fire-starting kit with flint and tinder fungus. Ever since those ancient times, utility belts have seen continuous use, carrying everything from primitive survival supplies and farming implements to swords and six-shooters. They offer quicker access and more load-carrying capability than garment pockets, and can be configured in countless ways to meet the task at hand. With this in mind, let’s take a look at three common categories of belts related to emergency preparedness and self-defense. We've divided them into three categories: EDC Belt, Range Belt, and Battle Belt/War Belt, each for their own purpose. But if you're in a hurry, check out this video on one man's custom range belt setup:
Belt Categories
First, everyday carry belts are designed to be slim and comfortable enough for daily wear. Most are intended to provide additional support for concealed carry of a gun, medical gear, and other items. EDC belts also offer higher load-bearing capacity for pants that are weighed down with anything beyond the normal phone, keys, and wallet.
Above: A good belt makes it easy to carry gear without constantly stopping to hike up your pants. The pictured Agis appendix holster from Tier 1 Concealed distributes weight well thanks to two clips and a flexible midsection.
Second is the category we refer to as range belts — the type you’d wear at a shooting class or competition. These tend to be more overt and sturdy; items that were stored inside the waistband (IWB) are now stored outside the waistband (OWB), and additional magazine and accessory pockets are added. Range belts sometimes feature a thin inner belt and detachable outer belt connected by hook and loop material, making it easy to tear off the entire loadout in seconds without dropping trou. Buckles and webbing tend to be larger and stronger, since concealment is no longer a priority.
Finally, battle belts or war belts are the most high-profile and full-featured category. Even if you’re not literally going into combat, these setups are made to handle that level of physical activity and abuse. This is where you’ll typically see more mission-driven gear loadouts, padded layers for comfort during extended wear, and in some cases, active retention holsters that restrict unauthorized access to a handgun. You might think every inch of these belts will be packed with gear, but that’s not necessarily true. A war belt or battle belt is often worn as one part of a larger load-bearing system, so some of the equipment may migrate off the waistline and onto a chest rig, vest, or plate carrier. Refer to our article “Front Toward Enemy” in Issue 36 for a thorough look at each of those systems.
Now that you understand the divisions between these three types of belts, buckle up and read on as we show some of the options and considerations for each. All of the following belts and accessories from Carbon Tactics, G-Code, and Snake Eater Tactical are made in the USA.
Everyday Carry Belt
Whether you’re wearing a suit and tie or jeans and a T-shirt, there are EDC belt options that complement almost any type of attire. I tend to fall into the latter category most of the time, so my belt stays concealed beneath the hem of my T-shirt. Thankfully, this means I’m not restricted to styles that look like they belong on the shelf at Men’s Wearhouse.
Above: A strong magnet embedded in the BadgerStrap causes the split buckle to snap together with a satisfying click.
The Foundation: I picked up two belts from Carbon Tactics, a company that designs and manufactures its products in my home state of Arizona. The first is called the BadgerStrap, and consists of a clever split buckle that’s held in place using a strong magnet and CNC-machined, interlocking latch. Although the BadgerStrap was recently discontinued, Carbon Tactics offers the Quicky with a similar magnetic mechanism, as well as the new Cipher, which augments the magnetic latch with a tensioner dial. All of the company’s belts are available with single-layer (more flexible) or double-layer (more rigid) nylon webbing in your choice of black, gray, or coyote brown. A hybrid Biothane option is also offered, integrating an outer layer of polyester webbing coated in tough thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). I chose this option since it prevents fraying or staining, and makes the belt slightly stiffer than a single-layer style.
The BadgerStrap’s magnetic buckle is rock solid — allegedly strong enough to lift a motorcycle — and I like the fact that its styling is relatively inconspicuous. The nylon and Biothane hybrid construction is supportive without being excessively stiff. I noticed the BadgerStrap has a tendency to loosen slightly throughout the day, especially when it’s loaded with a holster or other heavy items. The brass slider on the male side of the buckle doesn’t grip the webbing as securely as I’d like. That said, this belt is a great choice for those who prefer minimalist loadouts without too much weight on the waistband.
Carbon Tactics also provided a second belt, the Epoch, which demonstrates a heavier-duty EDC option. This belt’s CNC-machined buckle features a trigger-shaped release mechanism on the female side of the buckle. This looks cool, and allows for easy one-handed opening. Apparently, the filmmakers behind the 007 series also liked the design, since this belt is featured in the recent movie No Time to Die. Another benefit of the Epoch is its ability to fit through belt loops; unlike the split-buckle BadgerStrap and Quicky models, you won’t need to slide the Epoch’s buckle off the webbing to swap it between pairs of pants. As for the webbing, this belt features double-layer Coyote Brown nylon.
Above: The Carbon Tactics Epoch features a unique trigger release mechanism, but our favorite part about this design was the fact that it’s slim enough to slide through belt loops without removing the buckle.
I found the Epoch buckle design to be more comfortable and convenient than the BadgerStrap; it’s slimmer and has built-in flexibility between the male and female halves of the buckle, allowing it to contour to my waist. I also didn’t have any issues with this belt loosening during the day, even with a holster, spare mag, and trauma kit inside my waistband. Some users may find the double-layer nylon to be too stiff — it holds a semi-rigid oval shape at all times. It can be ordered with single-layer or hybrid webbing, depending on the user’s preference and load-bearing needs.
EDC Loadout: Holster Options
I tried out two different holsters with these belts — one made specifically for appendix carry with a spare mag, and a more traditional stand-alone option with a separate mag carrier.
Notes: The Agis is designed for appendix carry, and includes a detachable magazine carrier. Many colors and configurations are available; shown is Storm Gray Kydex set up for a Glock 19 and Streamlight TLR-7A weapon light. With its canted spare magazine, adjustable clips, concealment claw, and flexible midsection, I found this holster to be extremely comfortable and easy to conceal under a T-shirt.
Notes: Modular appendix holsters aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, so I also tried out a stand-alone holster and mag carrier from VEIL Solutions. This holster is set up for my G19/TLR-7A, and it works well for either appendix or strong-side carry. The MOD Wing helps reduce printing, and the optional Discreet Carry Concepts clips make sure it doesn’t move around on my belt. The C2 mag carrier is the same durable Kydex design featured on the war belt/battle belt setup later in this article, but reversed for IWB wear.
Above: VEIL Solutions’ Mantis light-bearing holster provides a minimalist way to carry my Glock 19 and Streamlight TLR-7A. Its metal DCC clips ensure it won’t budge or slide on my belt.
I believe every prepared individual should have basic medical gear and Stop the Bleed or equivalent training. I always carry a bigger kit in my backpack, but an IWB IFAK ensures I’m never without the most critical life-saving gear.
Notes: When I first saw this elastic med kit, I wasn’t sure if it’d end up being too bulky to wear every day. I soon learned it’s surprisingly slim and comfortable, even while sitting in a car for extended periods. It curves to fit my waist and holds a C-A-T tourniquet, H&H mini compression dressing, Celox hemostatic gauze, and gloves. Two metal clips hold the kit securely in place. My only gripe is that the TQ’s hook material sometimes snags on the inner hem of my T-shirt, causing it to fray; switching the C-A-T for a SOFTT-W will alleviate this.
Other Gear
Although the rest of my EDC gear isn’t directly attached to the belt, it’s indirectly supported by it. The more you fill your pockets, the more support you’ll need.
POM Industries pepper spray (concealed inside the waistband)
SureFire E2D LED Defender Ultra flashlight
Microtech Ultratech single-edge pocket knife
Zippo lighter with butane torch insert
Fossil leather wallet with concealed Serepick Bogota Titan lockpicks
Tuff Writer carabiner
iPhone in Otterbox Commuter case with Nite Ize magnetic mount
Range Belt
There are many instances where the amount of gear you can carry, and your ease of access to it, is more important than how discreet it appears. You might be hiking, camping, or hunting in the backcountry, or you might be in a setting where overt carry is expected, such as a gun range. For the sake of simplicity, we’ll refer to this category as range belts. They typically include two or more magazine pouches for primary and secondary weapons, a larger med kit, and an OWB pistol holster, plus any other pouches or tools you may need. Competition-oriented belts, such as those used in USPSA or 3-Gun matches, would technically fall into this category, but they’re much more specialized than the multipurpose setup seen here.
Above: If you’re looking for your first range belt, G-Code offers the Scorpion Low Viz belt as a complete kit with almost everything you’ll need. They’ll even ship it to you fully assembled — just clip on the RTI holster of your choice, and you’re good to go.
The Foundation: Although it’s certainly possible to piece together a range belt setup from off-the-shelf components, there are also several companies that offer range belt starter kits. I selected this G-Code Scorpion Low Viz Belt system, which is based around a two-piece Contact Series Operator’s Belt. Its 1.5-inch-wide inner belt fits through normal belt loops, and is Velcro-lined to attach to the outer belt. A G-hook secures the belt once it’s tightened. The outer belt is made from dual-layer 1.75-inch nylon, with the exterior layer wrapped in wear-resistant Cordura. A sturdy Cobra buckle is standard. Belts are available in black, OD green, coyote tan, wolf gray, MultiCam, or MultiCam Black.
Each Low Viz Belt kit comes with three G-Code Scorpion rifle mags, three Scorpion pistol mags, an Optimal Drop RTI pistol holster platform with elastic leg strap, and an RTI Rotating Belt Mount for an accessory of your choice. The latter two items are compatible with detachable holsters, pouches, and accessories that feature G-Code’s RTI mounting system. I found the belt kit to be very versatile, and have used it at Steel Challenge and 2-Gun matches, as well as for some of the pistol and carbine classes featured in my Final Weapon column.
Range Loadout: Holster
G-Code’s RTI mounting system features three posts that lock into holes on the belt-mounted RTI plate. This allows the wearer to easily swap between holsters for different guns without a need for special tools or removal of the belt. Many manufacturers offer RTI-compatible holsters, but I decided to get a holster straight from G-Code along with my belt.
Above: The included Optimal Drop RTI mount positions the pistol grip even with the belt line, making it easier to draw quickly. It’s not nearly as cumbersome as an old-school drop-leg holster.
Notes: The OSLr features a pre-installed RTI hanger and sturdy Kydex construction in your choice of black, OD green, coyote tan, gray, or MultiCam. A soft “fuzz” finish is optional if you prefer that over bare Kydex. This holster feels well-made, with a positive click as my G19 slides into place. G-Code doesn’t offer a version that’s compatible with my current Streamlight TLR-7A carry light, so I went with the SureFire X300-U. I also selected the RMR cut option ($5 extra) and black anodized hardware (another $5). Paired with the Optimal Drop platform that came with the belt, the OSLr sits comfortably near the natural resting point of my hand, making it easier to draw quickly. The elastic strap prevents the holster from shifting as I run, kneel, or go prone.
Range Loadout: Magazine Carriers
A total of six soft magazine pouches were included with the Scorpion Low Viz belt kit.
Notes: These mag carriers are made from rubberized polymer woven together with elastic shock cord, which can be loosened or tightened to adjust retention. The rifle carriers can accommodate AR-15, AR-10, and AK magazines; the pistol carriers fit single- or double-stack mags and are available in Tall or Short (we chose Short for Glock 19 mags). This is a notable advantage over hard Kydex mag carriers if you plan to use your belt with a variety of weapon types. The elastic design does a good job holding mags in place, and allows them to be removed by pulling straight up or levering outward to break retention. R2 and P2 Operator mounts can be attached directly to the belt, or they can be stacked atop each other to conserve belt space.
Above: Removal of the G-Code belt is simple: Disconnect the Cobra buckles on the belt and leg strap, then pull the hook-and-loop material apart. The inner belt will keep your pants where they belong.
Range Loadout: Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK)
To make use of the RTI Rotating Belt Mount, I picked up an RTI-compatible med pouch from G-Code. Alternatively, a standard med pouch could be attached directly to the belt using clips or MOLLE-compatible soft loops.
Notes: Measuring 6 by 5 by 2 inches, this zippered clamshell pouch is lined with an array of elastic loops for medical supplies. I filled it with supplies for major trauma and range-day cuts/scrapes: C-A-T tourniquet, Rescue Essentials pressure dressing, QuikClot hemostatic gauze, NAR S-rolled gauze, HyFin Vent chest seals, shears, medical tape, assorted Band-Aids, antiseptic wipes, gloves, and a mini Sharpie marker. The pouch itself is great, but I’m not sold on the RTI mounting system for this application — it causes the med kit to stick out further off the belt, making it feel a little cumbersome. A direct-mount kit would work better, unless you need to swap pouches frequently.
I finished off the range belt setup with the following items:
Blue Force Gear Ten-Speed Dump Pouch for shotgun shells or other loose items
ITW Grimloc carabiner to retain Mechanix gloves
Battle Belt / War Belt
A war belt or battle belt takes the concept of a range belt to the next level, offering a platform that can be worn in a professional context along with other load-bearing gear. You might wear a range belt a few weekends each month, but duty belts for law enforcement and military personnel need to withstand continuous daily wear. That includes high-intensity activities like running, climbing, and hand-to-hand fighting, as well as long periods of walking, standing, or sitting. Durability and comfort are paramount, as is retention of all equipment — I shouldn’t have to explain why losing control of your weapon or other gear in a real fight would be disastrous.
Above: We combined the Snake Eater Tactical three-piece War Belt with a Level 2 retention holster and Kydex mag carriers from VEIL Solutions. This setup is maneuverable and comfortable enough to wear while running, jumping, climbing, or crawling.
Wide, padded belts are standard in this category, since they provide the most comfort and support for heavier loadouts. The most traditional approach is to slide a belt through a padded sleeve that’s covered in MOLLE webbing. These sleeved systems can be worn over untucked shirts or jackets since they aren’t attached to the user’s pants. However, they’re bulky and may shift or rotate during physical activity — that’s not ideal if you expect to find your gear in the same place every time.
Suspenders (as seen on old U.S. military ALICE systems) and belt keeper loops (as seen on many LE duty belts) have been used to prevent movement, but Velcro hook-and-loop layers are a more modern solution. The belt I selected comes from Snake Eater Tactical, and features three layers connected in this manner.
The Foundation: The SET War Belt Three-Part System starts with a thin and light piece of 1.5-inch Hypalon fabric, with a simple pass-through loop on one end for tensioning. This is the absolute minimum needed to hold up a pair of pants, but it’s effective. Next, a 4mm-thick layer of closed-cell foam is wrapped in breathable nylon mesh, with hook material sewn to one side and loop material sewn to the other. This creates a thin yet breathable padded layer between the inner and outer belts. It’s wider than the other belt layers in order to provide cushioning for holster mounts and other hard accessories. Finally, the 1.75-inch outer belt is constructed from a double layer of Type 13 nylon parachute webbing, with an inner layer of hook material and a black Cobra buckle. Heavily reinforced stitching throughout this belt shows that it was built with longevity in mind. The SET War Belt is made to order; at time of publication, with a lead time of four to eight weeks.
This three-part system can be used as a two-part system. For example, the middle and outer layers can be worn over a jacket or untucked shirt, much like a traditional padded belt (with the aforementioned drawbacks). The middle layer can be removed for a slightly slimmer waist profile, but after wearing the full system, I can’t imagine wearing it without the padding — it makes a huge difference. The SET War Belt is head and shoulders above a regular range belt for long-term daily wear.
War Loadout: Holster
Given the nature of this belt setup, an active retention holster is a logical choice. Passive retention, as seen on the other holsters in this article, relies on friction induced by the shape of the holster to keep the weapon in place. Pull hard enough, and it’ll pop out. Active retention adds at least one device that must be released before drawing the gun. It ensures the gun won’t get knocked loose while you’re running around, or more importantly, won’t be easily accessible to any bad guy who tries to take it.
Above: Pressing the thumb break lever causes the retention hood to snap forward, allowing the gun to be drawn normally. This takes some getting used to, but it beats losing your gun.
Notes: The Fett features a thumb break — essentially a small lever on the inside edge of the holster — that must be pressed firmly to release a spring-loaded hood. When the hood flips forward, the gun can be drawn normally from passive retention. Each holster is drilled for various mounting patterns including Safariland, G-Code RTI, and Tek-Lok; I picked the ubiquitous Safariland Mid-Ride hanger ($20 extra). It’d be easy to add a thigh strap to this setup if desired, but I felt it was stable enough without one. Even though I’m not working at an LE agency or other job that requires a retention holster, I appreciate the peace of mind it provides. You never know when you might want to do some tactical cartwheels. When the hood isn’t activated, the Fett works great for range practice or competition.
While my range belt came with three rifle mags and three pistol mags, I picked up two and two for the war belt. This is because I’d typically wear it with other load-bearing gear that contains more magazines, such as a chest rig or plate carrier.
Notes: Universal mag pouches have pros and cons, but application-specific, molded Kydex carriers provide the most secure fit and retention. They’re also durable and easy to clean. VEIL Solutions’ C2 series, which stands for Competition & Carry, is available with a reversible polymer belt clip or an optional Tek-Lok clip ($8 extra per carrier). The pistol carriers are available for Glock, SIG, HK, CZ, 2011, and B&T applications; the rifle carriers are available for AR-15, AR-10, and AK mags. Numerous finishes and colors are offered, from plain black to Rhodesian Brushstroke. I’m a fan of the slim profile and strong retention provided by these C2 carriers.
Much like the magazines, this medical gear is supplemented by gear in my chest rig or plate carrier. This belt IFAK serves as my first-line trauma gear. Second-line trauma gear and “boo-boo” kit items are stored elsewhere.
Notes: The Micro TKN consists of an elastic sleeve and a tear-away insert that can be pulled out using the tabs on either end. It can be purchased fully loaded or empty; I packed mine with an H&H mini compression bandage, QuikClot hemostatic gauze, HyFin Vent Compact chest seals, medical tape, and gloves.
Since my micro trauma kit doesn’t have room for a standard TQ, I picked up this carrier from NAR. It attaches securely to the belt with snap straps, and has an elastic cover that protects the Velcro on the C-A-T tourniquet from dirt or abrasions. The straps on the back offer a convenient place to store a set of shears.
Other Gear
Just because you can load down your war belt with six AR mags, four pistol mags, throwing knives, and shark-repellent spray doesn’t mean you should. The only item I’d consider adding is a dump pouch if the situation called for it. It can be used for cycling through a large number of partial mags during reload drills, picking up brass at the end of a range session, or carrying loose ammo for specific weapons (e.g. shotguns).
Above: A war belt will often serve as one piece of a larger load-bearing gear system, such as this Tyr Tactical PICO-DS plate carrier. See our article Here for a detailed look at all of its components.
FAQ
Q: What is a range belt? A: A stable platform that holds gear, but is also flexible for comfort, and sturdy enough to support a holster and other heavy items.
Q: What is a MOLLE Belt? A: A functional load bearing utility belt designed to hold holsters, mag carriers, pouches, and other essential gear.
Q: What is the best shooters belt? A: That is highly dependent on what the belt is going to be used for. But a good belt will be sturdy, capable of carrying everything that is required, and will stand up to abuse.
Closing Thoughts
Much like the emergency preparedness “line gear” Tom Marshall wrote about in Issue 38, it’s not unreasonable to have a few belt setups for different purposes. Many of you reading this article won’t need to spend a big chunk of change on a full-blown war belt. Virtually everyone needs a good everyday belt, unless you wear a bikini or silkies 24/7, in which case we hope you’re good at hand-to-hand combat and MacGyvering your way out of danger. Instead of building a jam-packed belt that would make Batman jealous, consider the situations you face most often, and focus on finding the most efficient way to carry what you truly need.
If you’re reading this, there’s a strong chance you own a smartphone. Most people do these days. We use them less and less for calling and more for living our digital lives: banking, commerce, social media accounts, business deals — our phones are basically an extension of ourselves. Unfortunately, we also find ourselves in an increasingly less-permissive environment, legally and socially. Governments the world over have (both legally and illegally) increased their digital surveillance capabilities at an alarming rate, as the Snowden leaks revealed to the world. NGOs and online sleuths are able to leverage Open-Source Intelligence (OSINT) to track people through cyberspace and the real world, feeding information to authorities or to cancel-culture rage mobs. Abusive partners looking to further control and isolate their spouses may also leverage their phones against them.
Spy fiction has for years popularized the concept of a “burner phone.” The entire first season of the hit HBO crime drama The Wire really revolved around Baltimore PD’s attempt to thwart a drug gang’s use of burners. But when it comes to burner phones in the real world, what are the facts? How do they work? What are the legal and technical hurdles you might find yourself facing should you choose to acquire and operate one? What tradecraft is really needed in order to make a burner phone even worth it? I’ll explore the answer to these and other questions in this article.
What is a Burner Phone?
At a minimum, a burner phone is one that we don’t care about and don’t intend to use for long. They may be used once or just a few times. The phone will often be ditched or destroyed after use, so we want one that’s inexpensive but robust enough to do what we need to do, especially if the intention is to use the internet and online applications at all.
Really, though, the value of a burner phone is in disassociating ourselves from the phone. We don’t want our name associated with the IMEI (International Mobile Equipment Identity) of the phone in any way. IMEI is a globally unique identifier for a phone. While a serial number identifies a phone in terms of its manufacturer, the IMEI is what identifies a phone on the cellular networks. It must be globally unique in order to facilitate roaming between networks. Even if you switch out SIM cards, the IMEI of the phone is still used to identify the phone.
When you sign up for a phone contract with, say, Verizon or AT&T, you’ll be asked to show ID, sign up with a credit card for billing, etc. In their database, they’ll have your phone IMEI associated with your account. This creates an extremely strong association between the two. If you travel to another country and get a local SIM card, you’ll have a new SIM Serial Number (SSN) and even a new MSISDN (Mobile Station International Subscriber Directory Number; i.e., the phone number). However, your IMEI will remain static.
Preventing an association between our identity and an IMEI, and having a phone that can be discarded to make tracking or successful Signals Intelligence (SIGINT) or Communications Intelligence (COMINT) targeting harder is what most people are thinking of when they think about a burner phone.
In another context, a burner really just focuses on the “disposable” aspect. You may still want a strong association between the device and yourself, but don’t want to risk your real phone or its data. In this context, you may also want a burner laptop as well, not just a phone. You may just re-image the devices before and after or you may just ditch them after.
Why Would You Need a Burner Phone?
The media tends to focus on the bad actors when it comes to any tool (guns, anyone?). They’ll bring up spies, terrorists, and drug dealers as reasons why telecommunications should be heavily regulated and everyone should have to have their device tied to their identity. Of course, activists who are afraid they may be targeted for political persecution, as well as just your general privacy enthusiasts would also want access to a burner phone. But there are many perfectly legal, sensible reasons to use a burner. Examples of these include:
An engineer or executive from a technology company traveling to China, who is afraid his device may be targeted by the authorities for industrial espionage purposes.
A tourist who is afraid of being made to unlock a device when clearing customs.
A woman whose abusive boyfriend has access to a phone he gave her, but who needs to communicate without him finding out.
How to Buy a Burner Phone
Above: I purchased a Moto e and unlimited voice and text plus 1GB of data, in cash, at my local Target store. I didn’t need to show ID at point of sale.
At a minimum, a burner phone is a prepaid phone. Depending on the laws of your jurisdiction, and the policies of both the store you buy from and the carrier you choose, it may be more complicated. In much of the world, you’re not going to be able to buy a prepaid phone or even a SIM for your current phone without showing ID. You may not be able to buy with cash, either.
In 2010, there was an attempted car bombing in Times Square in New York City. The terrorists used “burner phones” as part of the trigger system for their device. Predictably, as in all such tragedies, politicians wanted to be seen as “doing something” and introduced legislation to eliminate “burner phones” in U.S. S3427, known as the Pre-Paid Mobile Device Identification Act. It didn’t pass, but some stores adopted the policy anyway.
So, what’s the process like today, and what considerations do you have to be aware of? For research purposes, I was able to go to my local Target and buy a Tracfone Moto e and a plan card. I didn’t have to show ID, and I was able to pay cash. I did have to ask the sales associate to unlock the phone from the shelf for me.
Honestly, it was really easy and straightforward. And depending on your threat model, that might be enough. The woman in an abusive relationship might go in and make her purchase, just as teenagers do daily. However, if “jealous boyfriend” isn’t the adversary you’re concerned with, then you’ll also want to take tradecraft into consideration.
Above: Tracfone and other prepaid mobile services require that you purchase your minutes and data separately. The phone doesn’t come with anything included in the box.
Purchase Precautions
We live in the most surveilled time period in all of human history. We’re constantly being tracked, both online and offline. We know that, which is why we want a burner. But if our goal is to completely disassociate from the phone, even under the scrutiny of knowledgeable and well-equipped state-level adversaries, we have to be craftier.
Here’s a list of things to take into consideration:
We never want our actual phone and the burner phone to be active in the same location, or in relative proximity to each other. In fact, we don’t want our phone to have been near the store where we purchased the burner, and certainly not when we purchased it. Even if we’re not just worried about the cellular service, we don’t want any other emissions from our phone (BTLE, Wi-Fi probes, etc.) to leave a digital bread crumb trail. You might think turning your phone off is enough, but that’s not always true. For example, Apple’s iOS 15 added a new “findable after power off” option for iPhones.
In my local Target, there are surveillance camera bubbles on the ceiling in a matrix, about 8 to 10 feet between each other. Some of those may be decoys, but it’s safe to assume you’re on camera the entire time you’re in the store. You might want to consider wearing a mask for privacy — most people will assume you’re only concerned about getting sick.
There are speed and traffic cameras all over. Many of us also have toll transponders, or vehicles with built-in cellular Wi-Fi systems. There are plenty of opportunities for our vehicle to be tracked going to or from the store.
The obvious solution to these considerations is the use of one or more cutouts. A cutout is an individual whose role is to ensure that two other individuals (such as an intelligence officer and his or her handler) don’t have to meet together. In this case, you get a cutout to have someone else go make the purchase someplace outside of your immediate area of operations (AO), and then meet for the pickup. You either meet for the pickup in a third location, or receive the phone via dead drop (a pre-arranged location to exchange goods without meeting).
It’s also worth noting that if you don’t buy a plan card in the store with cash, you’ll need to provide credit card information when you activate the phone later.
Above: Big-name carriers like AT&T have prepaid options, but may have policies and technical controls in place to limit their usefulness as “burner” phones, even though there’s currently no legislation in place in the U.S. mandating this at a federal level.
How to Set Up a Burner Phone
The process for activating the phone is going to differ depending on the carrier you choose. Some may make it more difficult than others, given our intended purposes and constraints.
The process for Tracfone is relatively straightforward:
Turn on the phone — remember not to do this near your primary phone, home address, workplace, etc.
If you got one of the Android models, make sure you turn off all the location sharing and other Android privacy-spoilers.
From a computer (because the website won’t work on the Android Chrome browser, so you can’t just connect the phone to Wi-Fi), go to the Tracfone website.
Click to activate
Provide the PIN from your plan card
Provide the IMEI and select a zip code you want your phone number to be from
Create an account
Reboot the phone
Now it works!
How to Activate a Burner Phone
Above: Make sure to opt out of all Google tracking and diagnostic “services” when you initially power on the device.
Here are the facts, based on my experience at the time of writing this. The Tracfone activation page won’t progress past the IMEI input and zip code selection if you’re using a well-known VPN service or Tor. I wasn’t able to do it while using ProtonVPN, for instance. This is obviously in order to tie a real IP address to the activation so that an association can be attempted later.
However, when they ask for an email address, they don’t have any requirements for this email address. In fact, I was able to use temp-mail.org/en to get a temporary email address and use that. No email was sent to this address during its lifetime, and I verified that it’d receive email by sending one to myself at the randomized address.
My recommendations for activation tradecraft are:
Activate the phone away from home, with a public computer if possible (library, cyber cafe, etc.) If doing it from a coffee shop, make sure you disable Bluetooth and any sharing, change your Wi-Fi MAC address, etc.
Use a temporary email address to activate the accounts.
Either get your cutout to do this for you, or be cautious of any form of evidence of your presence at this location that might come back to haunt you later. This may include CCTV footage, credit card transaction records, tracking data from your other electronic devices, or even eyewitnesses who remember your appearance.
How to Use a Burner Phone
The operational security (OPSEC) around running a burner phone is based largely on your threat model, or the map between your assets (what you have to protect), the threats against those assets, and how the threats may attempt to exploit weaknesses to attack those assets. The woman in an abusive relationship has a much different threat model than the political activist, for instance.
A complicated threat model will include:
Attacks against your anonymity by tying you to the device (e.g. surveillance of locations where the device is commonly used).
Attacks against your privacy by tying the device, and thus you, to specific locations at specific times (e.g. triangulation or GPS tracking).
Attacks against the confidentiality of your communications (e.g. wiretapping).
Attempts to determine who in your network communicates with whom and map the “social networks” you’re part of (if your burner only contacts your known associates, who aren’t using burners of their own, that’s a clue to your identity).
Making the mistake of logging into online services, especially those such as Google or Facebook, will instantly tie your phone’s IP address to your account. Your Google info can be subpoenaed, and then the carrier will be subpoenaed for information on the phone that had the IP address, thus tying you to the phone.
There have been numerous cases of phone locations being subpoenaed during an investigation. In 2020, an individual was investigated by police merely for having tracked a bike ride on Google Maps past the location of a robbery at roughly the same time. And we’re all aware of the mass leveraging of geolocating phones during the January 6 incident.
All voice calls and SMS text messages, as well as internet traffic, can be subject to lawful intercept due to the Communications Assistance for Law Enforcement Act (CALEA). The scope of the warrant can be for call identifying information (CII), such as information on who called whom and any dialed digits, or might extend to Call Content (CC), which is recordings of the actual phone call or captures of digital data exchanged. Avoid the use of unencrypted communications, even with a burner phone.
Above: F-Droid is a third-party app store that supplies open-source software. By enabling the Guardian Project repo, you can get privacy-focused applications to help bolster your anonymity and increase the value of your burner phone.
Important Privacy Tips
At a minimum, follow these tips to mitigate threats to your mobile phone and privacy:
DO NOT log into a Google account for Android, or in a browser. This should go without saying.
DO NOT enable any telemetry, tracking, optimization, or customization features.
DO NOT enable biometrics (thumbprint, facial recognition, etc.). Stick with a PIN. An alphanumeric pass phrase is best. Use one that’s not shared with any of your other known accounts.
DO NOT power up your device in or around your home, work, contracted cell phone, or anything else electronic that can be used to tie you in time and space to the burner phone conclusively.
DO install Signal manually without using Google Play.
DO install F-Droid to allow you to install a few extra open-source applications (OpenStreetMap, and some others discussed below).
DO commit important phone numbers to memory and avoid saving them as contacts.
DO set up a system of challenges/responses with your associates to establish your identity on a human level. For example, think of the classic “flash” and “thunder” sign/countersign combination Allied forces used to identify each other on D-Day. Since you have gone to great pains to undermine technological identification associations, and you may be cycling through burner phones regularly, this serves as a low-tech fail-safe to confirm you’re speaking with the right person.
Mitigating social network link analysis is more difficult. In intelligence analysis, this refers to the process of graphing subjects (typically people) via associations to each other. Subjects who have the most associations are either the most important person in the network (the “Center of Gravity,” or COG), or a courier/cutout for that individual.
Network traffic analysis, such as seeing what phone numbers call what other numbers, or what IP addresses visit other IP addresses, can be used to build those associations. Thus, avoiding direct communication with attributable endpoints, such as known phone numbers or email addresses, is important in this context.
Above: PixelKnot is a digital steganography application for Android that allows you to securely embed messages in photos, which can then be distributed via anonymous bulletin boards and image-sharing sites to your compatriots.
Covert communications methods, such as steganography, can help mitigate this threat — refer to our article in RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 45 for more details on how to use digital steganography to send messages discreetly. You can gain access to a steganography app through the F-Droid app store by enabling the Guardian Project repository and then installing PixelKnot. You can install Tor browser clients via F-Droid as well.
Burning the Burner
When you’re done with your burner, you’ll want to get rid of it. How you do this will largely depend on the why. In most cases though, you’re going to want to securely dispose of the device and not just toss it into the trash can while on the run, à la Jason Bourne.
Assuming time permits:
Perform a factory reset of the device.
Ensure that you have physically scrubbed it of fingerprints or other biological remnants of your time with the device.
Physically destroy the device to render it inoperable, and more to the point, to ensure that data is physically non-recoverable.
Above: Before tossing your burner phone, make sure to do a factory reset at a minimum. Wipe it (both figuratively and literally with a cloth) and physically destroy it as well, if time permits and your threat model justifies it.
FAQ
Q: What is the point of burner phone? A: Burner phones, or a “burner”, is an mobile phone designed for temporary, sometimes anonymous, use, after which it may be discarded.
Q: Are burner phones legal? A: Burner phones are legal if the use of a burner phone is for acts that are not considered illegal.
Q: Are burner phones traceable? A: A burner phone number can be traced, but it is difficult to trace a burner phone without specialized tools.
Conclusion
In today’s digital world, threats to privacy and security of individuals abound. Those who, for whatever reason, require anonymity can still get it through the use of prepaid cell phones. Making the jump from a mere prepaid phone to a burner requires judicious application of operational security procedures and tradecraft. These precautions will limit the opportunities for state and non-state actors to be able to tie your real-world identity to the device and then leverage the device against you by tracking you, both online and in the real world.
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Disclaimer: It’s legal for you to build your own firearms. Convicted felons or other prohibited persons, however, cannot. There may also be other applicable laws where you live, so double check the regulations in your jurisdiction. CMG West, its parent entities, and subsidiaries shall be held harmless in the event any entity acts on information provided in this article.
In the past few years, a “do-it-yourself shotgun” kit has become popular, billed as a survival gun. It’s made by Runway Sub-Cal, a manufacturer known for producing rifled flare gun inserts to allow shooters to fire pistol rounds through 26.5mm flare guns. Essentially, they provide a barrel, firing pin, and an outer barrel sleeve; the rest of the pipe shotgun is built from steel pipe fittings. I was a bit hesitant going into this assignment, but read on and see why it’s important for a number of reasons.
Several retailers carry this kit. We ordered ours from Bud-K for $130 with free shipping.
The pipe shotgun package arrived via FedEx Smart Solutions, meaning that FedEx did all the heavy lifting getting it to within 20 miles of me and transferring final delivery to my local post office. Bud-K packaged it well enough, but after opening it up I realized there was no instruction sheet.
This wasn’t a big deal, as the kit is straightforward with a video on the company’s website. When compiling the items needed to finish it up, I went to double check on the website what a “jam nipple” was and realized the firing pin wasn’t included in the shipment.
Bud-K’s customer service desk began looking for extras in their warehouse. If they were unsuccessful, they’d have me return the kit in exchange for a new one. A few days later, they advised that the manufacturer would ship out the missing components directly. After about a week, it arrived.
Completion of the kit requires the following ½-inch pipe parts:
one ½-inch tee
three ½-inch caps
two 4-inch nipples
one 3-inch nipple
two 45-degree elbows
one 90-degree elbow
two jam nipples
one 5-inch nipple
The only parts that were somewhat difficult to find were the so-called jam nipples. These are short nipples that are completely threaded. I found them under a variety of names such as zero nipples and flush nipples. Perhaps jam nipples are a colloquialism in certain parts of the country or an older plumbing term, but I couldn’t find them under that name in stores near me. After a quick trip to Home Depot and $32 later, I had everything I needed to put the Pop-A 410 together.
Assembly took about 15 minutes, if that long. One of the trickier things to get right was ensuring that the angled pipe connectors aligned properly. They might line up perfectly while only grasping two or three threads, but then would be totally out of alignment when tightened all the way down. Lucas Oil Gun Grease and a small pipe wrench in conjunction with a vise got everything properly into position. I threaded as far as I could, backed off, and repeated in order to grasp more threads to make it sturdy and straight.
Once you have an idea on how everything lines up, you can make it semi-permanent by using plumbers’ tape, Loctite, or another adhesive. Some builders have used JB Weld for a more permanent fix, but that might be excessive.
A crucial piece of this assembly is the ½-inch tee piece. This acts as your receiver, for lack of a better term, and the firing pin should be able to pass completely through it.
Above: For less than $35 in pipe fittings, you can complete the Pop-A 410 kit and have a single-shot shotgun.
When finished, you have basically a two-piece pipe shotgun composed of a chambered, spring-loaded barrel, a homemade receiver containing a fixed firing pin, a homemade stock, and pistol grips. A “safety” is included in the form of a clip that inserts between the firing pin and primer, attached to a short piece of cord so you don’t lose it. There’s no sighting system, but the forward pistol grip has a Weaver-style base so you can mount a red dot or visible laser. A short sheet metal screw with a rounded head could make for an improvised bead sight.
You can leave the Pop-A 410 unfinished, “in the white,” or you can break out some Krylon, Duracoat, or even Cerakote if you feel fancy and coat it in a protective finish.
To fire the Pop-A 410 you load the chamber, shoulder the pipe shotgun, take hold of the forward grip, aim, and slam the barrel rearward. The impact of the firing pin against the primer of the shell causes ignition and fires the projectile.
The first round was a bit of a doozy. The thought that kept going through my mind from the moment I loaded the chamber until I actually fired it was, “Will that galvanized pipe fitting and that two-piece barrel assembly that I bought be enough to handle 12,500 to 15,000 psi?”
Above: Shooting the Pop-A 410 pipe shotgun is a bit tricky due to the lack of a trigger, but not difficult. Shoulder it, take aim, and slam the shell rearward into the firing pin.
It turned out that it was. The burst rating on this type of pipe is 21,000 to 26,000 psi, while pressurized. The short impulse of firing a single round of ammunition plays a role, too. Still, no one will get “millions of rounds out of this” weapon. I fired close to 150 rounds of assorted birdshot, buckshot, and buck and ball shot, without incident.
Beyond the fun factor, this is a firearm of last resort. For instance, if you had to build something out of scrap to forage for birds and squirrels in a survival situation. Or, in a darker scenario, if you needed to make something in order to take out the opposition and scavenge his weapon.
Alternative Weapons
While this was a fun project, it’s a bit expensive for what you get. It’s basically a slam-fire .410. You can walk away with the satisfaction that you built a firearm on your own. Plus, putting it together may provide a better sense of how firearms work, along with the pride we all get whenever we build something with our own two hands.
Above: For the cost of a completed Pop-A 410, a shooter can pick up a purpose-built shotgun in the same caliber, many made before 1968 also lack a serial number such as this single-shot Winchester Model 37 and an over/under Stevens Model 420.
If you’re mainly intrigued by the fact that you can build a firearm without a serial number and wondering why you'd invest the time and money in one of these, there are other alternatives.
For example, there are untold numbers of firearms, mostly shotguns and rimfire rifles, built before 1968 that have no serial numbers and can be purchased for much less than what was invested in this project. These aren’t just rusty single-shot cracked-stock scatterguns, either.
Over the years I’ve acquired single-shot shotguns made by Hopkins & Allen, New England Firearms, Harrington & Richardson, Iver Johnson, Savage/Stevens, and Winchester for less than $90 each — and in the case of the Hopkins & Allen and Stevens models, less than $40. An over/under Stevens 420 in .410 made 75 years ago set me back $110, and a bolt-action Sears 12-gauge cost me $60. None of these firearms have serial numbers; neither do a handful of 22 bolt-action and single-shot rifles I’ve acquired over the years.
Closing Thoughts
Above: It may not be a collector-grade, heirloom-quality firearm, but the Pop-A 410 survival shotgun represents a learning tool and a lightweight firearm that may be enough to keep you alive.
Any prepared individual should have low-cost firearms on hand, because they’re cheap, easy to learn how to use, and can be loaned, bartered, or otherwise utilized in the event of a large-scale long-term disaster.
The Pop-A 410 survival shotgun can fill this role, but it’s more significant along the lines of a first-time gun-builder understanding how a firearm can be built, along with the inspiration for ideas on how to build your own, should you find yourself in a situation where making a firearm from scratch may be your only option.
Examine your ammunition types on hand and see how they fit in various pipes or tubes. Find pipes or tubes in a suitable grade of metal to contain the chamber pressure of the firing sequence and experiment. You can build something like the Pop-A 410 to gain an understanding of how the parts fit together properly and take those concepts to forge ahead on your own.
The key to preparing for a disaster and surviving is the knowledge we obtain and how we successfully apply it. A simple project like this can act as food for your mind.
FAQ
Q: What is the simplest shotgun design? A: A break action is the simplest shotgun design. The “break” part simply means that the barrel (or barrels) hinge open from the receiver and stock.
Q: Can you make your own sawed off shotgun? A: The act of reducing the length of the barrel of a shotgun to less than 457 mm (18 inches) by sawing, cutting, or “otherwise”, by anyone other than a recognized gun manufacturer, is prohibited.
Q: What size pipe fits a 12-gauge shotgun shell? A: For 12-gauge slam fire shotgun, you'll need ¾- and 1-inch diameter pipes, plus a 1-inch cap to thread on the end of the 1-inch pipe that'll act as your receiver.
Q: What is a homemade shotgun called? A: Improvised firearms (sometimes called zip guns, pipe guns, or slam guns) are firearms manufactured other than by a firearms manufacturer or a gunsmith, and are typically constructed by adapting existing materials to the purpose.
Q: Is a slam fire shotgun legal? A: They must meet the 18” barrel length and 26” overall length to be non NFA. They must resemble a gun not being disguised as a cane for instance. That also would be NFA. If you can legally own a firearm you can build and own a slam fire shotgun in the USA.
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In this age of titanium folding knives, state-of-the-art bushcraft blades, and $500 tactical tomahawks, it's easy to overlook one of the best survival tools that most us already own: the little red knife with the corkscrew.
A Victorinox Swiss Army knife is a small toolbox in your pocket. Have you ever cringed watching someone break the tip off his tactical knife while trying to turn a screw or pry a lid? Perhaps you've seen someone work up a sweat damaging or dulling his big blade while chopping or batoning a sapling, when a small saw blade would have sufficed? Tasks are often easier when you use the right tool. Swiss Army knives are available in many models, giving you lots of tool combinations to choose from without having to carry an entire toolbox. And no, not all of them feature corkscrews, and not all of them are red.
We've used this multitool in the woods and around the house, to prepare tinder, fashion snare triggers, tighten screws, strip wires, file corroded wires, open cans, repair toys, make an alcohol stove from a tuna can, and clear shooting lanes while. Once, on a high-profile detail as a police officer, this author even used the scissors on a Swiss Army knife to self-administer an emergency haircut when a grouchy superior officer went on a rant about “non-regulation” hair.
When it comes to matters of survival, a Swiss Army knife can be a lifesaver, too. Here we highlight five of the most unexpected uses for everyone's favorite little red multitool. For more useful survival hacks and tips, check out our book OFFGRID Presents: DIY Survival, on sale now.
Swiss Army Knife Basic Features
Main Blade: A sharp, stainless steel blade that folds into the handle.
Smaller Secondary Blade: Often included for more delicate cutting tasks.
Can Opener: Paired with a small screwdriver tip that works on flat-head screws.
Bottle Opener: This is usually combined with a larger screwdriver tip and also sometimes includes a wire stripper notch.
Scissors: Useful for cutting paper, trimming cloth, or other fine work.
Saw: A serrated blade that can saw through wood and other materials.
Awl or Reamer: A pointed tool for punching holes in leather or wood.
Corkscrew: For opening wine bottles.
Tweezers: Slotted into the casing, handy for picking up small objects or removing splinters.
Toothpick: A small plastic pick that can be used for cleaning.
Key Ring: Allows the knife to be attached to keys or gear.
Phillips Screwdriver: Some models include a Phillips head screwdriver.
Additional features can include various other tools like a nail file, magnifying glass, pliers, fish scaler, hook disgorger, pen, digital clock, altimeter, USB stick, and even an LED light in some of the more modern or specialized versions. The specific tools included can vary widely from one Swiss Army knife to another, depending on the model and intended use.
Caring for a Swiss Army Knife
Taking care of a Swiss Army knife ensures it remains functional and lasts for many years. Here are some of the best care and maintenance tips:
Cleaning: After use, especially if it has come into contact with acidic substances or dirt, clean the blades and tools with warm water and a mild detergent. Make sure to open and clean each tool individually.
Drying: Thoroughly dry the knife after washing. Moisture can lead to rust and degradation of the metal components. Leave the tools out in a dry area or use a dry cloth to remove any moisture.
Oiling: Apply a drop of oil to the pivot points of the blades and tools to keep the action smooth. Use a lubricant that's safe for multi-tools and pocketknives.
Sharpening: Keep the blades sharp with a sharpening stone, honing rod, or a knife sharpener suitable for small blades. A sharp knife is safer and more efficient.
Tightening: The screws on the knife can become loose over time. Tighten them gently with a suitable screwdriver to ensure that the tools do not wobble.
Avoid Rust: Prevent rust by storing the knife in a dry place and avoiding prolonged exposure to wet environments. If rust does form, remove it with a rust remover appropriate for cutlery.
Regular Inspection: Periodically check the knife for any signs of wear or damage. Inspect the tools for sharpness, the handle for stability, and the overall function of the knife.
Proper Usage: Use the knife for its intended purposes only. Avoid using the knife as a pry bar, screwdriver as a chisel, or the blade as a hammer, as misuse can lead to damage.
Carrying Case: If you carry the knife daily, consider using a protective pouch or case to prevent dirt build-up and to protect it from the elements.
Avoiding Improper Storage: Do not store the knife in its sheath for long periods, especially if the sheath is leather, as leather can attract moisture and cause rust.
Avoid Dishwashers: The high heat and harsh detergents can damage the knife. Always opt for hand washing.
Polishing: For aesthetic maintenance, polish the knife with a metal polish appropriate for stainless steel, but ensure it's suitable for cutlery to avoid contamination of food.
5 Surprising Uses For a Swiss Army Knife
Survival Use #1: Start a FireIn a survival situation, you need to be able to make fire. You might carry a lighter and a ferrocerium rod with you, but those aren't the only sources of ignition. Our backup fire-starting kit uses a small piece of steel wool, the battery from a tactical flashlight, and, yes, our Swiss Army knife. The knife holds the battery in place and also forms most of the electrical circuit.
Step 1: Store a piece of steel wool inside your Swiss Army knife. Here's an easy way to do this. First, open the bottle opener and can opener on each end of your knife. Take a piece of steel wool and twist it in your fingers until you have a strong, twine-like piece just shorter than your knife is long. Push this inside the knife using the tweezers or toothpick, then close the can and bottle openers on top of it.
Step 2: When you're ready to start a fire, open the can opener all the way, but open the bottle opener just halfway, so that it's perpendicular to the rest of the knife. Remove your steel wool from inside and untwist some of it. You won't need much.
Step 3: Place several strands of steel wool into a tinder bundle about the size of your thumbnail. A cotton ball with some shredded paper mixed in works well.
Step 4: Remove a CR123A or similar battery from your tactical flashlight. Place the flat, negative end of the battery against the upright bottle opener. Lift the front of the battery slightly, and slowly close the can opener until it rests against the top of the battery, leaving a slight gap between the can opener and the positive nub of the battery. The battery should now be held in place by those two Swiss Army tools.
Step 5: Holding the knife upright in one hand and the tinder/steel wool in the other, position the strands of steel wool so that it touches the positive terminal of the battery and the can opener. This completes the electrical circuit. The current will run from the battery through the knife to the steel wool and back to the battery. The steel wool is so fine that it'll heat up rapidly and begin to glow, until it catches the tinder on fire.
Note: Like many survival techniques, this requires practice, both to get the steel wool glowing hot and then to fan or blow the right amount of air onto a resulting ember in the tinder until it bursts into flame. This caught the author by surprise the first time he tried it, burning a thumb. Make sure you have other tinder and kindling ready nearby to keep your fire going.
Survival Use #2: Build a Stove
There are many ways to make various types of alcohol stoves. Our favorite — and one of the easiest — uses a small potted meat can with two rows of holes punched around the top rim. The cook pot sits right on top, and the flames jet out of the holes. But what if your Swiss Army knife is your only tool? No problem. Here are two simple stoves you can make, one with a tuna can and the other with the bottoms of two soda cans.
Tuna Can Stove:
Step 1: Using the can opener on your Swiss Army knife, open the can of tuna, but don't completely remove the lid.
Step 2: Eat the tuna. It's good for you.
Step 3: Fold the lid back into the can.
Step 4: Fill the can with methyl alcohol — either denatured alcohol from a hardware store (used as paint thinner) or Heet brand gas-line antifreeze (the one in the yellow bottle). You can find Heet in most convenience stores.
The A-frame of the travois laid out and ready to be lashed together.
Step 5: Place a couple of small stones (flat tops preferred) on either side of your stove to serve as your pot support.
Step 6: Light the stove. The flames will shoot through the gaps you cut between the can rim and the lid.
Step 7: Place your cook pot across the stones. Ideally, there should be an inch or less of space between the stove and your pot.
Soda Can Stove:
Step 1: Begin with two empty soda cans with concave bottoms. Using the reamer tool of your Swiss Army knife, bore 6 to 10 holes in the bottom of one can, being careful not to let the reamer blade close on your fingers. The metal on soda cans is thin, so boring holes isn't difficult.
Step 2: Cut the bottom inch off both cans. Use the reamer blade again so that you can keep your other knife blades sharp for other survival tasks.
Step 3: Fit the two bottoms together — the one with holes in it goes inside the other one. You'll need to bend the edges slightly to get it started, then you'll be able to push them together. The fit will be snug.
Step 4: Your stove is done. Fill it with methyl alcohol through the holes you made. Light the stove. Use stones as a pot support as you did with the tuna can.
Notes: Burn time of these stoves is usually 15 minutes. They'll boil two cups of water in 8 to 12 minutes. If yours doesn't, try adding holes to the stove, placing the cook pot closer to the stove, or configuring a windscreen around the stove. Build time for each stove is about five minutes. For the tuna can stove, that time also included eating the tuna.
Survival Use #3: Craft a You-Haul
A travois is an A-frame of wooden poles used to haul heavy loads. Historically, they were pulled by horses. But you can construct smaller ones where you provide the horsepower. They can be handy if you need to move camp, haul out downed game, or get an injured companion out alive. You'll need the saw blade on your Swiss Army knife to construct it.
The author uses a Victorinox Hiker to saw downed saplings to make a travois.
Step 1: Cut two branches about an inch in diameter to a length of 6 to 7 feet. These will be used for the outside of your A-frame. Lash them together to form two sides of a triangle.
The A-frame of the travois laid out and ready to be lashed together.
Step 2: Cut one crossbar about 1 and 1/2-feet long to lash near the top of your A-frame. This will be your pushbar.
Paracord works fine for lashing wood, and the Swiss Army knife cuts the ‘cord to just the right lengths.
Step 3: Cut two or more longer crossbars and lash these at intervals across the base. You now have a travois.
The author tests his finished travois with a pack attached to simulate the load. A travois can be a lifesaver when used...
Step 4: Strap your load to the crossbars near the base.
Step 5: Step inside the A-frame and pick it up so that the push bar is along your waist. Hold on to the frame and start walking.
Note: You can lash the pieces together with paracord if you have it. If not, get out the Swiss Army knife again. Whittle the ends of the crossbars into a triangular shape to fit dovetail notches that you cut into the side pieces as outlined in the next item. It's time consuming, but it works.
Survival Use #4: Saw a Dovetail Notch
How do you join two pieces of wood together without cordage? Use the Dovetail Notch. Basically you cut a triangular notch into one piece of wood, whittle the end of the other into a triangular shape, and fit the two together. You can use this to make a frame to hang a kettle from a campfire or to fit poles together when building a shelter — anything you need to improvise in the field when cordage is in short supply.
Step 1: Using your Swiss Army knife's saw blade, make three cuts about halfway into a piece of wood where you want to make the notch. The first cut should be straight down. The other two, one on each side of the first, angle away.
Step 2: Use the saw and knife blades to remove the wood between your cuts, leaving a triangular notch that's narrow at the top and wider toward the center of the wood.
Step 3: Take the other piece of wood and carve the end into the shape of a triangle. Cut a little at a time and keep checking the fit to the notched piece until you have a tight connection.
You can attach two pieces of wood using a dovetail notch, made using the saw blade of a Swiss Army Knife. This dovetail...
Note: You can further secure the pieces by melting pine sap into the connections.
Survival Use #5: Clean Your Gun
A firearm is only good if you keep it in reliable working condition. You might be faced with doing a little field maintenance if you're far from civilization, whether on a camping trip, or a hunting trip, or while bugging out from a crisis.
Task 1: Use the small knife blade or scissors of your Swiss Army knife to cut cleaning patches from a cotton shirt.
Task 2: Use the toothpick and tweezers to reach into tight places to remove debris.
The author uses the tiny screwdriver from his Swiss Army knife as a pin punch to take down this Glock 20SF.
Task 3: Use the small screwdriver to punch pins.
Attaching a length of paracord to the parcel hook of a Swiss Army knife makes a handy improvised pull-through bore...
Task 4: Use the parcel hook with a length of paracord to make a pull-through bore cleaner.
Task 5: Use the screwdrivers to adjust the sights or remove grip panels.
The Army Advantage
Whether in the open spaces of Mother Nature or the confines of an overcrowded city, a Swiss Army knife can help you...
A Swiss Army knife makes an excellent everyday-carry tool. It can often be carried when it's not practical or legal to carry a larger knife. They're more socially acceptable too, as they're not apt to be seen as a threat when in civilized company.
So, tap into your inner MacGyver, no matter if your travels take you to wild forests, tall peaks, or urban jungles. With a Swiss Army knife and a little imagination, you have one of the best problem-solving gadgets ever created.
And yes, in case you're wondering, we've saved the day many a time by actually using the corkscrew to open a bottle of wine.
40 Additional Uses For A Swiss Army Knife
A Swiss Army knife is an incredibly versatile tool, known for its multipurpose application in various scenarios. Here’s a list of 40 practical uses that can come in handy in everyday situations or unexpected challenges:
Cutting Rope or Twine: The blade can quickly cut through materials for building shelters or tying down equipment.
Opening Cans: The can opener tool makes it easy to access food when you're away from a kitchen.
Sawing Through Wood: Handy for cutting small branches for a fire or shelter.
Screwdriving: Tighten or loosen screws with the flathead or Phillips head screwdriver.
Stripping Wire: Use the knife edge to strip insulation from electrical wires.
Drilling Holes: The awl can puncture leather, wood, or other materials.
Filing Nails: Keep your nails trim with the nail file.
Cutting Paper: The scissors are perfect for snipping paper or trimming maps.
Opening Bottles: The bottle opener is useful for hydration or celebrating a successful day outdoors.
Peeling Fruit: The smaller blade is ideal for peeling or slicing fruit.
Whittling Wood: Pass time or create tools by carving wood.
Picking Teeth: The toothpick can help maintain dental hygiene.
Tweezing Splinters: Use the tweezers to remove splinters or debris from skin.
Opening Letters: Slice through envelopes easily.
Scaling Fish: Clean and prepare a fresh catch with the scaler.
Measuring: Some models include a ruler for quick measurements.
Cleaning Under Nails: The knife tip or file can clean dirt from under fingernails.
Tightening Eyeglasses: The precision screwdriver can tighten small screws on glasses.
Punching a New Belt Hole: Modify a belt with the awl.
Cutting Cheese: A snack is easier with a blade at hand.
Opening Packaging: Slice through plastic or tape on packages.
Carving Messages or Signs: Leave messages on wood or soft stone.
Gutting Hooks: The knife can be used to remove fish hooks.
Emergency Haircut: Scissors can trim hair if needed.
Cutting Fishing Line: Quickly trim or cut lines when angling.
Tightening Gear: Use the screwdrivers for on-the-fly equipment repairs.
Scraping Surfaces: Remove stickers or clean surfaces.
Opening Wine: With a corkscrew, enjoy a bottle of wine outdoors.
Sealing Envelopes: Apply glue with the blade tip.
Emergency Sewing: The needle on the awl can help repair torn gear.
Cleaning Game: Process small game or fowl with various tools.
Marking Paths: Carve notches or symbols in trees to mark a trail.
Lifting Hot Cookware: The flat tool can serve as an impromptu pot lifter.
Breaking Down Boxes: Cut cardboard for recycling or storage.
Starting a Fire: The spark from striking steel against a rock can ignite tinder.
Cutting Bandages: The scissors can cut cloth for first aid.
Uncorking Champagne: Pop a celebratory bottle with the corkscrew.
Sharpening Sticks: Create points on sticks for cooking or defense.
Loosening Knots: The blade can pry apart tight knots.
Signal for Help: Reflect sunlight with the polished blade as a signal mirror.
Swiss Army Knife Trivia
Which Knife? The company that would become Victorinox provided its first Soldier's Knife to the Swiss Army in 1891. But the familiar red knife with the corkscrew that we normally think of as a Swiss Army knife was actually the Officer's Knife, introduced in 1897, and it was never adopted by the Swiss Army. It wasn't until after World War II, when G.I.'s began bringing them home, that the little knife became a must-have gadget around the world.
Unlock the Puzzle: Want to test the knowledge of your “knife expert” friends? Open the locking blade of a Victorinox Rangergrip knife and see how long it takes before they can figure out how to close the blade. The Victorinox insignia on the handle is a spring-loaded button that unlocks the mechanism.
Space Age: NASA issued a Victorinox Master Craftsman model to the crews of its space shuttles. It was a German astronaut, Ulf Merbold, who used a Swiss Army knife on a shuttle mission in 1983 to rewire some electrical connections, saving some expensive scientific experiments.
Lots of Tools: The Swiss Champ, the flagship of the company's gadget knives, has 33 functions. It's made from 64 different parts and takes 450 different operations to manufacture.
Screwy idea: When a customer suggested the addition of a tiny screwdriver, the Victorinox designers didn't want to do away with the toothpick to find room for one. That's when they created the screwdriver that fits inside the corkscrew.
What's in a Name? Founder Karl Elsener began using his deceased mother's name, Victoria, as a trademark in 1909, the same year the company was given permission to put the Swiss emblem on its knives to differentiate them from imitations. In 1923, the company switched to using stainless steel and used the name Victoria Inoxyd, with inoxyd being a shortened form of the French word for stainless steel, inoxydable. By 1931, the company combined the names, and the company has been called Victorinox ever since.
The Competition: The company that eventually became known as Wenger was awarded part of the contract to provide knives to the Swiss Army in 1893. Victorinox marketed its products to the public as “the original Swiss Army knife,” while Wenger promoted its products as “the genuine Swiss Army Knife.” Victorinox acquired Wenger in 2005, and since 2013, all the knives now wear the Victorinox label.
Counterfeit Alert: Make sure you don't get stuck with an imitation. All new genuine Swiss Army knives have “Victorinox” stamped at the base of the large blade.
Real-Life Application
As the name tells us, the Swiss Army knife started out in life as a tool for Swiss soldiers. So it was meant to survive combat, training, and harsh conditions. But it's also been used as a wide variety of impromptu tools. Here's a few of the most amazing adaptations of the little red multitool:
The North Pole Shoemaker When Tyler Fish and John Huston made an unsupported expedition to the North Pole, Swiss Army knives were a crucial part of their gear. Their success and often their survival depended on them. Fish's overboot kept popping out of the ski binding, so he used the blade, scissors, and chisel of his knife to reshape the sole of the boot to match the ski binding. They also used the knives to keep their stoves running, guide sewing needles when they had lost feeling in their fingertips, cut bandages for blisters, screw traction skins to their skis, patch boot liners, untie frozen knots, repair ski poles, splint a busted ski tip, and fix a cracked ski binding.
The Space Station Breacher When Canadian astronaut Chris Hadfield was docking his space shuttle to the Russian Mir space station, he found the Russians had been overzealous in sealing the hatch. Hadfield used his Swiss Army Knife “to break into the Russian space station” by cutting away the strapping and tape. The Swiss Army knife: Don't leave Earth without it.
The Other Impromptu Uses In his excellent book, Swiss Army Knives: A Collector's Companion, author Derek Jackson recounts more truly remarkable ways Swiss Army knife owners have put these tools to work:
Faster than a Speeding Train: In Germany, a railroad worker raced to lower a stuck barrier so car traffic wouldn't cross the tracks into the path of an oncoming train. He inserted the small blade of his Swiss Army knife into the barrier's mechanism and managed to lower the barrier just in time.
Coconuts for Dinner Again? An officer in the British Army reported that during an expedition in the South Seas with his soldiers, coconuts were a regular part of their diet. They used the Swiss Army knife's reamer tool to drill out the coconut eyes.
“Bee” Careful: In South Australia, a bee flew into a bus and stung a girl who was allergic to bee stings. Another passenger used the magnifier on his Swiss Army knife to confirm that the bee's poison sac hadn't been emptied and then used the tweezers to remove the stinger.
Roadside Surgery: In Ireland in 1990, a boy on a bicycle was struck by a car and suffered serious internal injuries. Doctors in a passing car stopped and used a Swiss Army knife to insert a drain in the boy's chest while they waited for paramedics.
Grim Emergency Surgery: After his surgical saw was stolen, a Canadian doctor working in rural Uganda used the saw blade on his Swiss Army knife to perform at least six amputations.
Clothes Remover: During an expedition to the North Pole in the winter of '76-'77, British explorers routinely used Swiss Army knives to remove ice from sleds and to open cans of food. The temperature was about -34 degrees F when a member of the expedition fell through a sheet of ice. They used the Swiss multitool to cut him free of his instantly frozen clothes and were able to get him dried out before he froze to death.
A Real MacGyver: A Swiss Army knife comes in handy for urban survival situations too. In 1992, Douglas MacIver of Portland, Oregon, was stuck alone in an elevator just above the first floor of an old building. There was a fire above him in the elevator shaft and the elevator began filling with smoke. As rescuers worked to free him, he took action himself. He used his Swiss Champ knife to loosen nuts to get the elevator doors open. He then had to remove the hinges from a window on the sealed-off mezzanine level where he was finally rescued. Although he spelled his name differently, he was compared to the television character, MacGyver, who often used a Swiss Army knife to get out of tough situations.
Sources
Swiss Army Knives: A Collector's Companion Compendium Publishing Ltd. www.amazon.com
Should you get a non-armored (bump) helmet or an armored (ballistic) helmet? This is a constant source of debate in the firearms community, and there are arguments to be made for each side. Ballistic helmets can protect your head from incoming bullets, shrapnel from explosives, and flying fragments of debris from the surrounding environment; this is essential in a battlefield setting, because even a minor head injury can take a combatant out of the fight and lead to a lifetime of medical complications.
Naturally, this protection comes with some compromises — most importantly, ballistic helmets are heavier than bump helmets and generally much more expensive. The weight aspect is unavoidable, since layered Kevlar is heavier than thin polymer, but a new product from Night Vision Network (NVN) has shown that the cost gap may not be as substantial as you think.
The ARCH Gen 3
Night Vision Network offers a ballistic helmet called the PGD ARCH Gen 3 at a reasonable price point of $549. For context, that’s only $187 more than the Team Wendy bump helmet mentioned earlier in this article, but with the added benefit of ballistic protection. And at just under 3 pounds complete, it’s only 6 ounces heavier than a comparable Team Wendy ballistic helmet (which costs more than $1,300).
Unlike many of its affordably priced competitors, the ARCH Gen 3 is not sourced from or manufactured in China. This high-cut helmet uses genuine DuPont Kevlar Aramid material that’s pressed into shape in Bulgaria and assembled in Denmark (both allies of the United States). NVN imports these helmets from the manufacturer, Protection Group Denmark (PGD), to the U.S. These helmets are tested to NIJ standards in an internationally recognized facility that’s certified by the U.S. Department of Defense.
The specifics of armor performance and testing are a very deep rabbit hole, so we’ll give you the high-level details. The ARCH Gen 3 is approved for NIJ 0106.01 Level IIIA standards and is rated to stop rounds up to .44 Magnum. Additionally, it has been tested for and shown to withstand 17-grain fragments of shrapnel traveling at 700 meters per second, according to the STANAG2920 test procedure (NATO’s standard for testing ballistic protection). Deformation depth has also been carefully studied; average deformation against a 9mm bullet impact was 11.2mm.
The ARCH Gen 3 is currently available in two sizes (M/L and L/XL) as well as three colors (black, FDE, and OD green). Each includes a front shroud that’s compatible with the Wilcox G24 night vision mount, as well as side rails that accept all the common aftermarket components — Peltor and Ops-Core AMP ear pro mounts, Picatinny rail sections, lights, and so on.
Other Features
No helmet would be complete without pads and a chin strap, so NVN includes a package of super cushy memory foam pads and a finely adjustable BOA suspension system. Both of those components are common aftermarket upgrades for other helmets on the market, so it’s great to see they’re included here. Stick-on Velcro sections are included to allow attachment of infrared strobes, helmet cameras, and other accessories.
We originally got our hands on the ARCH helmet during RECOIL’s CANCON Arizona range event. Night Vision Network set up a special after-dark shoot for VIP ticket holders and outfitted each attendee with an ARCH helmet equipped with night vision to try out on the range. Under guidance from instructors, attendees strapped on their helmets, flipped down their NVN night vision tubes, and stepped up to the firing line.
They practiced active aiming with infrared lasers, as well as passive aiming through a variety of weapon optics. This was an impactful and fun experience since many of them had never worn a ballistic helmet or used night vision before. More than a few walked away grinning and saying, “I’ve got to get a setup like that!”
Final Thoughts
If you need ballistic protection and are looking for a quality helmet that won’t break the bank (or your scale), the ARCH Gen 3 is worth checking out. And as a leading supplier of night vision systems, NVN can also get you set up with NODs, mounts, ear pro, and other helmet accessories.
