In the high-stakes chess game of modern warfare, the action often takes place within the concrete jungles of urban environments. Both history and the present day foreshadows that future conflicts will inevitably spill into city streets, requiring battlefield planners to develop a mastery of urban defense. This strategic forecast is explored by John Spencer and Jayson Geroux of the Modern War Institute at the West Point Military Academy. They posit, if leveraged effectively, a solid urban defense can decisively tip the scales of war.
Why Fighting in Cities is a Big Deal
Cities are not like open fields or forests. They're filled with buildings, streets, and alleys that make fighting a whole different game. History shows us that battles in cities, like the famous one in Stalingrad or the fight for Mosul, teach us a lot about how to defend these urban jungles effectively. It may sound obvious, but it's all about being prepared, coming up with smart plans, and being able to change tactics when needed. All things easier said than done!
Above: Narrow routes like alleys, create choke points that can disrupt the flow of an opposing force, and possibly provide an opportunity to employ massing effect strategies.
Smart Moves for Urban Defense
When planning how to defend a city, there are some smart strategies that come from Army guides and history:
Disruption: This tactic involves breaking up the cohesiveness of the enemy's forces, making it difficult for them to execute their plans effectively. In urban environments, disruption can be achieved by manipulating the terrain to separate enemy units, degrade their communications, and disrupt their logistics, effectively slowing their momentum and making them more vulnerable to counteractions.This is about making it hard for the enemy to move forward and do what they want. In cities, you can block roads, create diversions, and make it tricky for them to stick together.
Massing Effects: This principle refers to the concentration of combat power at the right place and time to achieve maximum impact. In urban defense, leveraging massing effects might mean concentrating firepower in an area likely to be breached by the enemy or organizing forces discreetly to launch a surprise counterattack against an advancing foe. Imagine all your friends teaming up at the perfect moment in a game to make a big move. In essence, its about bringing all your strength to one spot at just the right time to surprise the enemy and have a bigger impact.
Flexibility: The hallmark of any successful defense, especially in the unpredictable terrain of urban warfare, flexibility refers to the ability to adapt to changing circumstances rapidly. This includes altering tactics in response to enemy movements, repositioning forces to exploit newly identified weaknesses in the enemy's approach, and adapting defensive measures to accommodate the evolving urban landscape. This means being ready to change your plan based on what's happening around you. If the enemy tries something new, you need to be able to react quickly and smartly to keep the upper hand.
Above: Urban centers are filled with potential resources to create obstructions to enemy movements.
Learning from the Past to Win Today
Looking back at how soldiers defended “Pavlov’s House” in Stalingrad or how they made use of broken buildings in Ortona gives us insight for defending cities today. Things like:
Reinforcing buildings to create impenetrable strong points.
Intentionally creating rubble to obstruct and channel enemy movements.
Utilizing snipers to inflict significant casualties and disrupt enemy plans.
These simple tactics demonstrate how to use every part of a city to our advantage.
Getting Ready for Tomorrow's Battles
As fighting changes, so do the ways we need to defend cities. Mixing old tricks with new technology will help get ready for future fights. Cities offer so many ways to protect and defend, and using what we've learned from the past will help make smart plans for future conflicts.
This knowledge is not only applicable to military battle field commanders, but the skills and tactics involved in urban defense are also invaluable to civilians trying to survive in the midst of conflict. We explored urban survival in Selco Begovic's interview recorded in the SHTF Anthology, which highlights just how important understanding and mastering urban defense truly is.
Conclusion
Defending a city is a thinking man's game that needs brains as much as strength. Urban defense melds art with science, requiring a deep understanding of both the physical and historical landscapes of urban combat. Looking ahead, the lessons drawn from past urban battles, combined with a solid grounding in military doctrine, will equip today's defenders with the strategies necessary to secure victory.
Talk to enough folks who are passionate about self-reliance and you'll stumble into a wealth of strategies on how to endure should the day-to-day systems we lean on vanish. Some swear by hoarding essentials—think provisions and hydration—anticipating the day when convenience becomes chaos. Then there are the stealthy few who suggest stashing supplies in multiple hideouts, always staying a step ahead of troublemakers or dodging temporary danger zones. You'll find voices in the crowd who champion farming with your own hands as the ticket to survival, urging a return to the land. And inevitably, there's the rugged loner who plans to channel their inner woodsman, a rifle at the ready, confident they'll thrive indefinitely, or at least until order is restored by employing primitive wilderness survival skills.
Yet, none of these approaches are foolproof. Reality tends to laugh at our best-laid plans. A quick glance back at 2020 shows us just how delicate our interconnected world is, and how the most meticulous schemes can falter. What would we do if we hit rock bottom, stripped of our stashes and modern tools? What does starting from scratch really mean, and how do we, like our early forebears, turn raw nature into necessary tools?
Above: Phillip Liebel shares shares his wisdom as the class connects as a tribe.
This brings us to Phillip Leibel, a figure carved straight from the wilderness. He's a familiar face on History Channel’s ‘Alone: The Beast', a master of primal craft, and the brain behind Primitive Wilderness Survival. Phillip's quest is to reclaim the forgotten skills of old-world cultures and pass that legacy on to anyone with a thirst for knowledge. His latest endeavor is a workshop where you can learn to craft bows in the Cherokee tradition, culminating in a hunt against the mighty bison. We got lucky and snagged a spot in his course, making our way to Graham, Texas, where a treasure trove of insights awaited.
Building a Tribe
Graham, Texas is a bit off the beaten path, which makes it an ideal venue for a company like Primitive Wilderness Survival. Out there, away from bustling crowds and the nocturnal glow of city lights, one can start to truly unplug from the technology that has found its way into everything we do. In the morning, we arrived at a ranch on the outskirts of the town, along with several other like-minded individuals, eager to learn and ready to discover the bedrock of self-reliance: creating something from seemingly nothing. Students traveled from all over the country, including several from Wyoming and California, all with unique backgrounds and varying levels of skills. Some were familiar with making primitive tools, while for others it was their first time.
Above: Shooting a traditional bow is much different from a modern compound bow or crossbow.
Our instructor, Phillip, greeted us warmly and encouraged everyone to get settled in for a nine-day immersive experience. As we established camp among the juniper, cedar and locust, Phillip set about getting to know everyone in his class. There is a proverb about community and collaboration often cited that goes something like, “If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.” With this in mind, Phillip started the first day encouraging us to think of one another as a singular tribe, to help each other along the way, and foster an environment of mutual respect.
Creating a tribe wasn't just a lesson, it was our new reality. Humans are social creatures, and even though we often romanticize going it alone, that scenario seldom comes to a graceful conclusion. However, if we can organize as a group of like-minded individuals (aka, a tribe), we can work towards common goals with greater enthusiasm and tenacity. This would become increasingly important as the rest of course went on, and especially when it came time to hunt one of the largest denizens of the North American continent.
Making a Bow By Hand
To honor Phillip's cherished Cherokee roots, our session kicked off with a dive into tradition. We would be hand-crafting a bow-staff in the Cherokee fashion, using the sturdy osage orange wood. Before our fingers even brushed against the timber, we learned about the art of seasoning—a patience-testing process where the wood is left to surrender its moisture to the air until it's ripe for crafting. This process doesn’t happen overnight. Seasoning timber the old-school way involves basking in the open elements rather than hurrying it along in a kiln. It is a slow dance with time, often stretching over a year. Luckily for us, Phillip, ever the foresighted craftsman, had a stash of these time-tempered pieces at the ready, setting the stage for us to leap into the next phase of our craft-making journey.
Above: Before a bow can be made, the draw length of the individual user must be determined.
Determining Draw Length
Every bow is a custom crafted creation, tailored to the individual who will wield it. As such, you must know the exact tension required as the string draws an arrow back. This isn't a trivial fact to be overlooked—it's the core of the craft, guiding the bow's optimal height and thickness. To master this, we took a completed bow and an arrow, etched with inch marks along its spine, to measure our natural draw length. It was similar to taking a measure of your reach. While there’s a myriad of opinions on the ideal length of a traditional bow, for our purposes, we settled on a simple method. We measured how far we could comfortably draw the arrow back. It's a technique that’s less about numbers and more about feeling, finding that sweet spot where the bow feels like an extension of your own body.
Carving the Staff
Figuring out the perfect length for the bow was just the start. Next, we began to carve the Osage orange, carefully coaxing it into the silhouette of a traditional Cherokee bow. One sage bit of guidance we got was from one of our fellow tribesmen was, “Carve away anything that isn't a bow.” Sounded cryptic at first, but it was spot on. Traditionally, one might have used stone tools for this delicate process. We were lucky enough to have draw knives and rasps on hand. But even with these modern conveniences, the task was a marathon. With each shave of wood, we balanced on a knives edge. Too much left, and the bow wouldn't bend, too little, and you'd hear the heartbreaking crack of failure. Sun dipping low, the first day's end found us still chipping away, not quite there yet.
Above: With a bow held in place, a draw knife is used to remove would layer by layer until it becomes flexible enough to bend.
The second day's light ushered in an even finer dance with detail. As the bow's shape homed in on perfection, the coarse tools were traded for cabinet scrapers and sandpaper. Every so often, Phillip would put our progress to the test on his trusty tillering jig—our efforts being put to the ultimate stress test. If things did not appear quite right, back we'd go, scraping and smoothing. Each trial was a pulse-quickening moment, wondering if our creation would hold or shatter. But the seasoned osage orange, tough as nails, didn't let us down. We kept on, tillering and sanding, painstakingly inching towards a bow that felt just right in our hands, tailored to our own pull and power.
Stringing the Bow
No bow can launch arrows unless matched with a string. Our forebears crafted bows with sinew, braided into lengths sufficient for strings—meaning they meticulously removed strips from sizeable beasts or intertwined shorter lengths, hoping the intense strain wouldn't snap or untangle the braid. Today, for ease and security, we employ a cord called B-50. This synthetic rope boasts remarkable tensile strength and is favored for crafting traditional bowstrings.
Above: B50 cordate is use for making bowstrings and comes in a variety of colors.
To fashion a string of proper girth, we interlace six strands each of two colors (totaling twelve strands) employing the reverse-wrap technique. One extremity is woven into a loop secured by notches at the bow's end. The opposite extremity is tied by hand, permitting adjustments to the string's span according to the chosen draw length and tension. For some, this braiding posed a significant test, while others, graced with nimble fingers, did it with less trouble. Fortunately, as members of a tribe, we could solicit assistance from the adept in exchange for aiding in tasks like bow contouring. This collaboration sped our progress beyond solitary efforts.
Crafting Arrows
Various materials can make a decent arrow shaft. Phillip notes the Cherokee preference for river cane, but we used bamboo tomato stakes from a nearby garden shop as a handy substitute. A suitable arrow shaft can be any material with the right diameter and either naturally straight or adjustable to be straight. We each scouted five or six straightish pieces, then gathered by the camp's central fire to refine their alignment.
Above: Sighting along the length of the bamboo reveals where the troublesome bends and curves are located.
Peering down the bamboo length, its bends and twists become apparent. Brief exposure to the fire's warmth softens the fibers, opening a short window of time to coax the shaft straight, easing out curves. It's a delicate balance—enough force to ensure it sets straight once cool, but not so much it snaps. Occasionally, bamboo with preexisting flaws would crack, despite our caution. Phillip reassured us, it's better for flaws to reveal themselves now, rather than during a high-tension launch from a bow.
Above: Using heat from a fire loosens bamboo fibers just enough to make it slightly more bendy, making it easier to straighten.
With our shafts straight, we addressed the bamboo's nodal bulges. Using rasps and sandpaper, we worked each one down to achieve uniform diameter end-to-end. Phillip reminded us that in a more primitive setting, this step would involve coarse stones and significantly more elbow grease.
Cherokee Fletching
Feathers are essential for stabilizing an arrow in flight. Contemporary arrows often sport two or three fins crafted from a slender polymer. For our projectiles, we've selected a pair of feathers, either turkey or goose, flanking the shaft. These quills must be sculpted to synergize, ensuring peak aerodynamic stability. Their silhouette typically mirrors that of a rocket fin yet can be tailored to the archer's liking. While many opt for scissors to carve the desired profile, the application of heat via a heated rock or blade can sculpt the feathers just as well.
To secure the feathers, we employ dampened sinew strands interlaced with adhesive—no intricate knotwork necessary. Phillip sheds light on the traditional concoction and application of hide glue for such tasks. However, our modern shortcut involves swift-setting wood glue. Once set, the fletching is remarkably rigid, resisting any attempt to dislodge it with sheer force.
Above: Tillering is the process of adjusting how much each arm of the bow bends. By using a tillering jig like the one shown above, the curvature can be measured and adjusted.
As for the arrow's leading segment, we've calibrated it to be weight-forward by embedding weights within the bamboo's inner circumference. Phillip imparts wisdom on the use of sand or clay for weight, enhancing the arrow's impact and in-flight stability. In our case, to maintain momentum in our workshop and to ensure a forceful impact, we substitute sand or clay with metallic rods, sparing us the laborious task of maneuvering granular or sticky substances into the bamboo's narrow bore.
Gathering a bundle of our straightest, and best fletched arrows, we migrate toward the range for an impromptu test of precision. Our target is a rustic round hay bale, its center marked by a crimson bullseye. This venture doubles as a drill for bow stringing, a mildly cumbersome skill to master given the osage staves' reluctance to bend. Each of us are amazed at how powerful our hand-made creations are at this point, easily comparable to a modern traditional-style long bow.
A brief period elapses before the erratic flyers—victims of imperfect straightening or feathers—are singled out, leaving behind those arrows that reach the bullseye's vicinity with remarkable consistency. For a few among us, a pair of trusty shafts suffice. Yet for others, it presents an opportunity to tweak a nudge to the feathers or a twist to the spine. Those deemed true are meticulously segregated, ready for the progression to the next stage.
Above: Once a bow has been tillered and strung, its first field test is performed with a reliable practice arrow.
Arrowheads
Four days elapsed, and though we've toiled from the first light to dusk (a few of us even honing our archery in the pitch black, guided by headlamps), a significant challenge still looms. We aim to craft an arrowhead, primitive yet sharp enough to pierce the tough skin of a bison in its prime. Phillip imparts to us the art of stone knapping, a technique crucial to our forebearers.
Stone knapping is an expertise that demands years to master, and the prospect of acquiring enough proficiency to successfully produce an arrowhead within a single day is nothing short of intimidating. However, Phillip, alongside tribe members seasoned in knapping, delivers an exceptional introduction to the fundamentals. We're shown how strategic strikes create ripples in the rock's crystalline lattice, splitting off smaller fragments from the larger mass. Certain stones yield better results, and for our lesson, we select from a spectrum of obsidian, chert, and even glass bottle bases.
Above: A wide variety of tools and materials was provided so that each student could find what works best for them.
With shards in hand, we undertake the painstaking task of whittling them down to arrowheads, sliver by sliver. The implements are aptly named for their purpose—a ‘flaker', tipped with copper and similar in profile to the head of a marker, is for chipping away precise fragments. ‘Boppers', copper-domed ends fixed on dowels, serve to detach heftier sections and smooth out jagged rims. A robust slab of hide safeguards our legs, serving as a workbench for this delicate operation. Mastery of knapping is a gradual ascent which exceeds our limited time frame, yet under Phillip's and our skilled companions' tutelage, we edge closer to fashioning something that echoes the silhouette of an arrowhead.
Above: Finished arrowheads are attached to the straightes and most reliable of the prepared arrow shafts.
To render arrows lethal for felling a formidable bison, arrowheads need to be attached firmly to their shafts. This is accomplished by concocting heated pine pitch—a blend of pine resin blended with the fibrous droppings of deer—within stone vessels positioned adjacent to a fire. Render the pitch too hot, it is prone to bursting into flame since its flashpoint is low. A recess is meticulously chiseled into the shaft, precisely sized to accommodate the arrowhead's base, and the heated pitch is used as an adhesive to secure the arrowhead in its niche. Afterwards, a concoction of wood glue and sinew is utilized to lash the arrowhead firmly, guaranteeing its integrity upon discharge from the bow. With the assembly of arrows and the stringing of bows, a solitary step remained: to track and bring down the colossal quarry.
Hunting a Bison
As the evening unfolded before the anticipated day of the hunt, our campfire glowed, a testament to a week's diligent efforts. We exchanged hearty praise over each other’s bowmanship and eagerly speculated about the forthcoming pursuit. Our conversations stretched into the night, our eyes drawn upward as a shroud of clouds covered the stars, while the distant rumble of an approaching thunderstorm provided a backdrop to our gathering. Hunkering down for the night, we all fell asleep in our tents thinking about the next day, wondering how it would play out.
Above: Students stage and prepare their firing positions at a potential ambush site while Phillip watches for the quarry.
Post-storm, a mist had claimed our encampment, kicking off hunting day draped in overcast skies and the promise of residual showers. Prior to setting out for the territory where we would embark on our quest, Phillip gathered us together, initiating a ceremonial pre-hunt observance. Arrayed in a crescent formation, the moment to express reverence for the existence we were set to claim was upon us. In nature, an animal such as the bison might meet a grisly fate, falling prey to the savagery of the food chain, often only after a battle with the infirmities that come with old age, sickness, or injury. On this day, we aimed to salute its essence, bringing its life to a swift and compassionate end. Our ritual concluded with the cleansing aroma of juniper and the purifying essence of sage, a ritual to obscure our presence from the keen senses of our quarry.
Above: The shrewd bison cleverly utilized a herd of cattle as protection and early warning.
As fate would have it, the hunt did not go quite as expected. Bison are incredibly intelligent, clever animals, and the one we were hunting made us work demandingly hard for it. The hunt itself lasted a day and half, despite our tribe of eight (and the rancher who owned the property) tenaciously going after it. Our quarry defied our expectations at every turn. It never set a pattern, never reacted the way we thought it would, and never maneuvered to where we were trying to drive it. Over the course of the hunt, we watched it jump over six-foot high fences, leap over cattle traps, and even use cattle herds as cover. In the open, it never let us get close enough to take a shot. Concealed in woodland, it tread silently on the forest floor, gliding effortlessly through dense underbrush that impeded us. Sometimes it seemed to vanish into the ether, forcing us to regroup, invent new strategies, and begin tracking all over again.
Eventually, after much frustration and many miles of active tracking, stalking, and hunting, our tribe maneuvered it into a position where it could be safely harvested. For some it was a joyous relief, for others it was a poignant and emotional end. But no matter how everyone felt upon the culmination of our efforts, we were all proud of the work we had put into in, and grateful to have gone through the experience with such an amazing group of people.
Final Thoughts
Curiosity often sparks when pondering the bare-bones lifestyle of living directly from the earth. We might lose ourselves in films like ‘Dances with Wolves' or the historical narratives of trailblazers like Lewis and Clark. Imagining ourselves in their stead, it might seem feasible to emulate their existence. However, the theatre of the mind is vastly different from tangible existence, and the cultivation of skills that our ancestors mastered with apparent ease demands both relentless dedication and time. Our time spent with Primitive Wilderness Survival is testament to this. We took many shortcuts by substituting stone tools with steel, and other modern amenities, otherwise the course could have easily taken twice as long.
Above: Being a member of a tribe has numerous advantages, capable of performing tasks faster and with greater efficiency than a single individual could ever hope to accomplish alone.
Grasping the extent of challenges our distant predecessors endured to thrive solely on nature's offerings is not accurately gleaned from the passive acts of reading, or watching tales unfold on screen. I confess, my initial assumptions about the labor involved were naive until I engaged in the actual process of fashioning a hunting implement and the subsequent endeavor to procure game with it. My enlightening journey alongside my tribesmen, and Primitive Wilderness Survival's expert instructor Phillip Liebel, illuminated the astonishing resourcefulness intrinsic to humanity, and the formidable force of collective minds striving toward a shared objective.
To answer the question of whether living solely off the land is possible, the answer is a resounding ‘yes’. Yet the difference between surviving to thriving hinges on whether one chooses solitude, or the fellowship of a tribe of like-minded individuals, unified by purpose. Immersing oneself in the study of primitive skills reveals just how important and intertwined humanity is with another, and during these tumultuous times, it is worth rediscovering that important truth.
About Primitive Wilderness Survival
Interested in getting some hands on experience learning primitive self-reliance skills? Check out Phillips upcoming courses at Primitive Wilderness Survival
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Picture this: while vast armies in blue and gray faced off on well-known battlefields, a different, shadowy war raged across the South. This wasn't the orderly combat of soldiers in formation but a brutal, chaotic struggle of ambushes, surprise raids, and irregular tactics. From 1861 to 1865, guerrilla warfare tore through the Confederate states, leaving a profound mark on the American Civil War's outcome. By looking into the savage world of the Confederate guerrillas and Unionist fighters of the American Civil War, we can see a pattern that continues to repeat itself into the modern era.
The Dawn of Guerrilla Warfare
As the first shots of the Civil War echoed in April 1861, a different kind of warfare began to unfold across the South. With the shadow of Federal invasion looming, civilians from the Midwest to the Deep South quickly formed guerrilla bands. This mode of fighting offered a sense of freedom and the ability to protect one's home and family, unlike anything the formal Confederate army could offer.
The guerrilla fighters were a diverse lot. The majority were Bushwhackers, notorious for their ambush tactics and lack of formal uniforms, making them indistinguishable from civilians. This ambiguity sowed confusion among Union forces, who struggled to identify friend from foe. Contrastingly, the Confederate Congress legitimized another form of guerrilla, the partisan rangers, through the Partisan Ranger Act of 1862. These fighters, though still employing irregular tactics, wore Confederate uniforms and operated under a semblance of military structure.
The hit-and-run attacks, ambushes, and sabotage operations that characterized Civil War guerrilla actions are mirrored in the operations of modern guerrilla fighters across the globe. These tactics exploit the vulnerabilities of conventional military forces, relying on speed, surprise, and intimate knowledge of the local environment. Today, guerrilla groups and insurgent forces continue to use these methods to challenge larger, better-equipped armies, showing the enduring effectiveness of irregular warfare tactics.
Above: Soldiers on the march were easy pickings for Guerrillas.
Guerrilla Warfare Tactics
Civil War guerrillas employed a range of tactics that leveraged their deep familiarity with local terrains, their ability to blend in with civilian populations, and their willingness to engage in warfare that often defied the conventional rules of engagement of the time. Let's look into some of these specific tactics to understand how guerrilla warfare adds a complex layer to warfare.
Hit-and-Run Attacks: One of the hallmark tactics of guerrilla fighters is the hit-and-run attack. These attacks involved quickly striking a target—be it a military unit, supply train, or installation—and then retreating rapidly before the enemy could mount a significant response. This tactic exploits the mobility and local knowledge of guerrilla units, allowing them to harass and disrupt operations with minimal risk.
Ambushes: Guerrillas frequently use the element of surprise to their advantage by ambushing troops and supply convoys. They hide along routes known to be used by the oposing forces, waiting for the opportune moment to strike. Making us of the natural landscape, including dense forests and rugged terrain, provides perfect cover for such ambushes. This not only inflicts casualties and losses on opposing forces but also instills a sense of constant unease and threat among troops operating in guerrilla-active areas.
Sabotage: Sabotage is another crucial tactic, targeting infrastructure such as railroads, bridges, and lines of communication to disrupt support and supply lines. During the American Civil war, Guerrillas would tear up tracks, burn bridges, and cut telegraph wires, significantly hindering the Union’s operational capabilities. This form of economic warfare forced the Union to divert considerable resources and manpower to protect supply routes and repair sabotaged infrastructure. In the modern era, cyberwarfare is employed to disrupt cell-service and other digital infrastructure, sowing the seeds of chaos and confusion.
Psychological Warfare: Guerrillas also understand the power of psychological warfare. By fostering an environment of fear and uncertainty, they aim to demoralize opposition troops and sympathizers. The unpredictability of guerrilla attacks, coupled with their often brutal nature, play a significant role in affecting the morale of opposing forces, and contribute to a wariness and distrust among civilian populations in contested areas.
Wearing Enemy Uniforms: In some instances, guerrillas wear uniforms of opposition forces to deceive their enemies, allowing them to move freely, gather intelligence, and launch surprise attacks. This tactic not only facilitates guerrilla operations, but also contributes to the erosion of trust within the ranks, as soldiers became increasingly uncertain about who is friend or foe.
Use of Civilian Networks: Guerrillas often rely on civilian networks for support, intelligence, and resources. Sympathetic civilians provide food, shelter, and information about enemy movements, significantly enhancing the effectiveness of guerrilla operations. This close relationship with the civilian populace makes it difficult for opposing forces to root out guerrillas without alienating or harming innocent civilians.
Guerrilla Leaders and Their Tactics: During the American Civil War, leaders like William Quantrill, “Bloody Bill” Anderson, and John Mosby (the “Gray Ghost”) became infamous for their daring raids and mastery of guerrilla tactics. Mosby, in particular, was known for his ability to strike quickly and vanish into the Virginia countryside, his operations so effective that the area he operated in became known as “Mosby's Confederacy.” Similarly, modern guerrilla forces like the Viet Cong, the Afghan Mujahideen, the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK), and countless Islamic groups like Hamas, Hezbollah and ISIS, all employ guerrilla tactics to combat and demoralize larger conventional forces.
Above: Today's modern guerrilla fighters employ the same tactics, but with upgraded weapons and gear.
Response to Guerrilla Warfare
During the American Civil War, the Union army faced a conundrum in dealing with these guerrillas, especially the elusive bushwhackers. The Lieber Code of 1862 attempted to define the legal standing of guerrillas, declaring bushwhackers as illegal combatants. However, this did little to stem their activities, as the guerrillas' knowledge of local terrain and surprise tactics made them nearly untouchable.
Guerrilla warfare was not just a military challenge, it was a deeply personal conflict, pitting neighbor against neighbor. In areas like Missouri and Kansas, the violence became especially barbaric, with figures like William Clarke Quantrill and “Bloody Bill” Anderson leading raids that were more akin to massacres than military engagements. These acts of brutality highlighted the savage nature of guerrilla warfare, where the lines between combatant and civilian blurred.
Just as Union forces had to adapt to the guerrilla threat by developing counterinsurgency tactics and strategies, modern militaries face the challenge of countering irregular forces without alienating the civilian population. The difficulty of distinguishing between combatants and non-combatants, the necessity of gaining local support, and the challenges of operating in often unfamiliar terrains are challenges that modern forces continue to contend with.
Above: The psychological impact of carnage a band of guerrilla fighters can inflict is an effective way to demoralize opposing forces.
Impact on the Civil War and Beyond
The guerrilla war's impact on the Civil War was profound. These irregular fighters harassed Union forces, cut off supplies, and spread fear and demoralization. In response, Union commanders adopted “hard war” tactics, holding civilians responsible for guerrilla actions, which only further escalated the violence.
For years, the role of guerrillas in the Civil War was overshadowed by the battles fought by conventional armies. However, recent scholarship has begun to shed light on the importance of this irregular warfare. Guerrillas, whether bushwhackers, partisan rangers, or Unionist fighters, played a critical role in shaping the war's outcome and the society that emerged from it.
The Lieber Code's attempt to establish guidelines for the treatment of guerrilla fighters foreshadows contemporary efforts to regulate warfare and protect human rights through international laws and conventions. The question of how to deal with non-traditional combatants within the framework of international law remains a contentious issue today, reflecting ongoing debates about the nature of combatancy and the rules of engagement in irregular warfare.
Conclusion: A War Within a War
Guerrilla warfare of the American Civil War was a complex, brutal conflict that ran parallel to the larger, more famous battles. It was a war of shadows, where the fighters were as likely to be your neighbors as they were enemy combatants. This aspect of the Civil War reminds us that the impact of the conflict extended far beyond the battlefields, touching the lives of countless individuals who fought their own wars in the shadows of history.
Echoes of Civil War guerrilla tactics in modern irregular conflicts underscore the timeless nature of certain military strategies and the human capacity for innovation in the face of adversity. While the tools and contexts may have evolved, the principles of leveraging mobility, surprise, and local support remain central to the guerrilla way of war. Understanding these historical parallels offers valuable insights into the challenges and dynamics of contemporary conflicts, highlighting the relevance of lessons learned from the guerrilla warfare of the past.
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Imagine turning on your faucet one morning and finding that, instead of water, you're met with dry silence. For many, this scenario seems far-fetched, yet it's becoming an increasingly possible reality. On March 18th, 2024, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), issued a dire warning to the Governors of every state. The message was foreboding: cyberattacks from foreign actors threatens the safety and stability of our nation's water infrastructure. Infact, these attacks are already happening now, risking the safety and well-being of millions. As we move into the future, protecting our water will be become vitally important.
Understanding the Risk
Cyber threats against water and wastewater systems are escalating, driven by sophisticated actors seeking to exploit any vulnerability. Recent incidents have illuminated the nature of these threats, with actors affiliated with the Iranian Government's Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps and the People's Republic of China's state-sponsored cyber group, Volt Typhoon, targeting U.S. critical infrastructure. These attacks have not been random but are carefully designed to disrupt essential services and extract political, economic, or strategic advantage.
One of the specific vulnerabilities the letter highlights is a specific type of controller, the Unitronics programmable logic controller (PLC), which was found to be vulnerable to exploitation in November of 2023. PLC's are used to monitor various stages of water and wastewater treatment, turn pumps on and off to fill tanks and reservoirs, and announce critical alarms to operations.
The vulnerability of water systems to cyberattacks is especially concerning due to their critical role in public health and safety. To make the situation more complicated, many water utilities are challenged by limited resources and technical capacity, making them attractive targets for cybercriminals. The EPA, alongside the Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency (CISA), has underscored the urgent need for improved cybersecurity practices within the municipal water sector.
Securing Safe Water
Access to clean water is crucial for drinking, cooking, and hygiene, directly impacting our ability to maintain good health and prevent diseases. Waterborne pathogens can lead to severe illnesses and outbreaks, underscoring the need for protection measures against any form of contamination, including those arising from cyber-induced failures.
Water is a critical asset not just for individual survival but for the economic engine of communities and countries. Industries ranging from agriculture to manufacturing, energy production to pharmaceuticals, depend heavily on a reliable supply of clean water. A disruption in water services due to cyberattacks can have a cascading effect, halting production lines, affecting food supply, and incurring significant economic losses.
The Centers For Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), suggests several ways to prepare for potential disruptions in municipal water supply:
Make water safe. Even if a water from a municipal source becomes contaminated, there are ways an the individual citizen can take steps to ensure it is safe to consume or use. This includes, boiling, disinfecting, and filtering. The CDC also provides a few handy reference sheets, Make Water Safe During an Emergency and Use Safe Water During an Emergency, to print out and keep incase internet access is unavailable. They are Make Water Safe During an Emergency
Create and store an emergency water supply. The CDC suggests that keeping an ample supply of commercially produced bottled water is the safest way to make sure your water is uncontaminated. When it comes to quantity, the recommended amount is one gallon, per person, per day, for a minimum of three days. More water is needed if a member of the household is pregnant, sick, or if you are residing in a hot climate. It is also recommended to try storing as much as two weeks worth, eleven days beyond the minimum.
Find other sources of water. If you're caught unprepared, there are other ways obtaining water. Some of these sources include:
The security of our nation's water systems is not just a matter of smoothly running infrastructure, it affects public health, safety, and national security. As we navigate the complexities of the digital age, we must remain vigilant and proactive in protecting these essential resources from cyber threats. That being said, we must also ensure that we are prepared on an individual level to do without when our protective measures fail.
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In the annals of human innovation, few inventions shine as brightly in our daily lives as the flashlight. Its inception dates back to January 10, 1899, when David Misell, a British inventor based in New York, patented a device that would cast light on the future of portable illumination.
This device, characterized by its tubular shape, a bulb at one end, and the alignment of three D batteries, was not merely an invention, it was a beacon of progress. Misell's vision was recognized by Conrad Hubert, a Russian immigrant and fellow inventor, who acquired the rights to this invention for his company, Eveready.
Above: Conservation trackers utilize white light to create shadows while tracking at night.
Genesis of the Flashlight
The flashlight's debut was marked with a nod to creation itself, featuring the biblical quote “Fiat lux” in the Eveready catalog. This phrase, translating to “Let there be light,” echoed the profound impact of this invention on society. Initially named for its fleeting illumination—offering only a “flash” of light—the flashlight has transcended its early limitations to become a staple of modern life.
The invention of the flashlight stands as a testament to human ingenuity and the relentless pursuit of practical innovation. When David Misell patented the first portable electric light in 1899, it was a revolution in the way people interacted with light. This early version, though primitive by today's standards, laid the foundation for a century of technological advancement.
The initial model, powered by rudimentary batteries and offering only brief illumination, earned its name due to its ephemeral light output. However, the concept of portable light quickly proved indispensable, evolving from a novelty to a necessity. The evolution of the flashlight is a mirror to the technological and material advancements of the 20th and 21st centuries, reflecting changes in battery technology, materials science, and electronic innovation.
Above: Flashlights can be used to create sharply contrasting shadows even during daylight hours.
Anatomy of a Flashlight
Understanding a flashlight begins with its core components, each playing a crucial role in its function:
Light Source: Ranging from incandescent bulbs to LEDs and halogen lamps, the evolution of the light source has significantly enhanced efficiency and brightness.
Reflector: Typically parabolic, this component focuses the light into a beam, amplifying the flashlight's reach and intensity.
Protective Lens: Made of durable materials like glass or plastic, the lens shields the light source from damage.
Power Source: Modern flashlights offer a variety of power options, including batteries, photovoltaic cells, and dynamos, catering to different needs and preferences.
Switch Mechanism: The evolution of the switch, from push-buttons to slides, reflects a focus on user convenience and reliability.
This fundamental design has given rise to a plethora of models, each tailored to specific uses and preferences. From emergency signaling to varied power sources and brightness levels, the modern flashlight is a testament to innovation and versatility.
Above: Blue light is great for finding body fluids such as blood or saliva.
Modern Flashlights
The flashlight of today bears little resemblance to its predecessors. Advances in technology have transformed it into a device of unparalleled utility and efficiency. Rechargeable LED flashlights, in particular, represent a significant leap forward. These devices offer adjustable light beams, emergency modes, and induction charging, embodying the pinnacle of flashlight innovation.
Specialized models, such as right-angle torches, cater to specific needs by allowing hands-free operation, a critical feature in many professional and emergency contexts. Similarly, multi-color flashlights provide versatility with color-specific applications, from tracking to enhancing night vision.
The introduction of LED (Light Emitting Diode) technology marked a significant milestone in flashlight evolution. LEDs offered longer life, greater durability, and more efficient use of power than their incandescent predecessors. This leap forward was complemented by advancements in battery technology, including the shift from disposable batteries to rechargeable lithium-ion cells, further enhancing the utility and environmental sustainability of flashlights.
Modern flashlights now boast features that would have been unimaginable to their earliest users. Variable light settings, waterproof designs, and even integrated USB charging ports illustrate the flashlight's transition from a simple tool to a multifaceted device capable of meeting a wide range of modern needs.
In my personal case as a Tracker, I often employ them in indoor tracking, as they offer a good amount of additional light which allows me to spot micro details of latent tracks.
Above: White light is neutral and can be used to find ground or aerial spoor.
Common Flashlight Choices
Right-Angle Torches. Imagine navigating through dense underbrush or precarious terrain where every step counts. Here, the right-angled torch shines—not just literally. Its unique design allows for attachment to a belt, offering illumination without occupying your hands. Crafted from durable yet lightweight materials, these torches are ergonomically designed for ease of use, even with gloves. With impressive light output and reach, they light up the immediate vicinity, making them indispensable for intense situations where focus and free hands are paramount.
Multi-Color Flashlight. Next in our arsenal is the multi-color flashlight, a tool that boasts a palette of possibilities. From the neutral clarity of white light to the stealthy green that pierces the woodland shadows without alarming wildlife, each color serves a purpose.
White. The most neutral light, so a Tracker can employ it on different terrains (also in indoor environments), from ground spoors to aerial spoors.
Green. Runs longer than many other LED colors. It is massively beneficial in woodland. It is also employed by not scaring away animals when hunting at night.
Red. Creates a nice contrast on bright baseline, for example snow and bright-colored sand.
Blue. Can be used to track blood evidence and, generally speaking, body fluids (for example, saliva).
Colors can be extremely useful also for improving and consolidating night vision, for hunting, for map reading, for sending SOS signal, for fishing, for observing the constellations in the sky.
Multi-colored flashlights are my artificial light of choice when it comes to tracking in the dark as well as in poor light conditions. By being able to switch from one color to another, I can maximize the lights full capabilities, enhancing details that may be neglected while adopting only a white light.
UV Flashlights. Originally called the Wood's lamp, named after its inventor, a UV flashlight beams out electromagnetic waves, primarily in the ultraviolet spectrum. So, what sets apart a UV LED flashlight from a UV sanitizing gadget? Essentially, UV light from a lamp like the Wood's sticks to UV-A wavelengths. These wavelengths don't interfere with the RNA or DNA of the critters caught in its glow.
That’s not the case with sanitizing gadgets that operate on UV-B and UV-C wavelengths. These devices shatter the molecular chains of microbes and stopping them from multiplying like crazy. UV lights are great for:
Analyzing carpets, sofas, armchairs and corners of the house in search of any partial indoor track
Identifying damp patches caused by leaks resulting from broken pipes in structures
Detecting the presence of animals like scorpions
Detecting the presence of saprotrophs, mesophiles, psychrophiles and thermophiles mold
Basic UV flashlights shine in scenarios where you're playing detective with germs, mold, moisture spots, and more. It's a pro at uncovering hidden flaws in materials—think invisible cracks or deep-seated damage that hasn't shown its face on the surface yet. But the user should protect their eyes with special glasses or, at the very least, don't go flashing it at yourself or others, as this wavelength is terrible for your retinas.
Above: Kyt Lyn Walken analyzes a track at night using the light from her headlamp.
Hands-Free Headlamps. Lastly, let's not forget the humble headlamp, a beacon that keeps the darkness at bay while keeping your hands unburdened. Some headlamps come with different light modes, allowing you to switch between high, low, and even strobe settings. Types of headlamps include:
Incandescent: These traditional bulb headlamps are reliable and affordable, but they tend to drain batteries faster and produce a less intense beam compared to newer options.
LED: They offer a brighter and more energy-efficient lighting solution. LED bulbs last longer, consume less power, and can produce a wider range of light colors. Plus, they don't get scorching hot like traditional bulbs, so you won't have to worry about any surprise eyebrow singeing incidents.
Rechargeable: Say goodbye to constantly buying and replacing batteries with rechargeable headlamps. These nifty devices can be juiced up using a USB cable or a wall charger, making them eco-friendly and cost-effective in the long run. Just remember to recharge them before your adventures.
Whether you opt for the nostalgia of traditional bulb headlamps or embrace the efficiency of LED models, these devices offer a spectrum of light modes tailored to every task. Rechargeable options provide an eco-friendly alternative to battery-powered lights, ensuring you're always prepared. With features like adjustable headbands, waterproofing, and varied light modes, headlamps are indispensable for preserving night vision and maintaining focus on the track ahead.
Above: By creating low angles with the light, a sharp contrast is produced that makes the track “pop.”
Things to Consider Before Buying a Flashlight
When venturing into the wilderness or embarking on a tracking expedition, the flashlight you carry can be as crucial as your compass or your map. But with the myriad options available, how do you select the beacon that won't let you down when you're deciphering tracks under the moon's gaze? Here's a tracker's insight into picking the perfect flashlight, ensuring you're never left in the dark.
Brightness
First up, let's talk lumens. This measure tells you just how bright your flashlight will shine. While a cozy 100 lumens might suffice for a quick peek under the sink, those venturing into the great outdoors will need something with more punch. Think in the ballpark of 1,000 lumens to light up vast spaces like campsites. However, it's not just about the lumens; the design of the reflector and lens also plays a pivotal role in how your light cuts through the darkness.
Battery Life
Next, consider how long your light will stay with you. Whether you're team rechargeable or more of a disposable battery enthusiast, the capacity of your flashlight's battery, measured in milliamp-hours (mAh), is key. A solid 3,000 mAh will keep your night illuminated till dawn, while 5,000 mAh might be your pick for those high-powered luminary beasts that devour energy.
Size
When it comes to flashlights, size does matter. The standard torch might be about 6 inches long and fit comfortably in your grip, but there's also something to be said for the nimble EDC (everyday carry) flashlights. These pint-sized illuminators can easily tag along with you, ensuring you're always prepared, whether it's for a spontaneous tracking challenge or a sudden need to navigate in the dark.
Weather Resistance
Out in the field, your flashlight will face more than just the dark. It'll encounter dust, water, and the occasional drop in the mud. This is where the Ingress Protection (IP) rating comes into play, which indicates how impervious they are to dust and water. The IP rating is typically followed by two numbers, the first indicates its ability to resist dust (1 being the lowest, and 6 being the highest) and the other its ability to resist water (again, 1 being the lowest, and this time 8 being the highest). An IP rating of 68 indicates the flashlight is impervious to dust and can be submerged in water.
Above: Different spectrums of light make different tracking sign more visible to the naked eye.
A Tracker's Arsenal
The journey from Misell's initial patent to the high-tech devices of today illustrates a relentless pursuit of improvement and adaptation. Flashlights have become indispensable tools, illuminating our paths, enhancing our work, and ensuring our safety. As we continue to push the boundaries of technology, the humble flashlight stands as a symbol of human ingenuity, a reminder of our ability to bring light to the darkest corners of our world.
For those of us who track, whether it's following an animal across varied terrains or uncovering clues at a crime scene, having a versatile flashlight collection is not a luxury; it's a necessity. The ability to choose the right tool for the job can mean the difference between a successful track and a cold trail. It's about understanding the nuances of the landscape and the subtleties of the substrate you're working with.
Selecting the perfect flashlight is more than just picking a tool, it's about choosing a companion that will stand by you through thick and thin, illuminate your path, and perhaps even reveal secrets hidden in the shadows. Armed with the right knowledge and the perfect torch, the night and its mysteries are yours to explore.
Above: UV light can be used to reveal different substances, like mold, moisture or otherwise hidden cracks.
About The Author
Kyt Lyn Walken Allsopp is an official representative and Instructor for Hull's Tracing School (Virginia, U.S.). She also presents Tactical, Forensic and Search and Rescue Tracking courses and webinars across the European continent and South America. She is author of five books on Mantracking, and is recognized worldwide as one of the leading experts of this primordial but effective skill. You can learn more about her work at her website: www.thewayoftracking.com
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When you look at knives these days, especially tactical types, the handles are usually finished in one of three colors: black, green, or tan. Sure, there are variations to each of those like Ranger Green versus OD Green, or Flat Dark Earth versus Desert Tan, but there are plenty of other colors on the spectrum for those willing to break out of this tactical trifecta. Orange symbolizes safety in most situations, because it stands out from everything else, and a blaze orange color has been used by hunters for decades because the color isn’t often found in nature. For this reason, on an orange knife, it makes a great handle or even blade color.
This might seem peculiar, as when Tactical Timmy is gearing up for an Instagram photo, he wants all his colors to blend in and match his outfit. Desert camo apparel means a similarly colored handle on his knife; a woodland pattern means an OD or camo-style handle. That’s great if you’re in a combat setting attempting to conceal yourself from an opposing force, but much less practical in other situations.
While it may look cool, what happens when that drab-colored knife is dropped onto sand, foliage, soft snow, or in a low-light environment where it can’t be seen because it’s blending into the background too well? For this reason, orange can be a better choice if your definition of tactical is less about concealment and more about being able to complete the task at hand. Another reason people like an orange handle is its public perception. If you have to use the knife around “non-knife people,” orange tends to be perceived as a benign tool rather than an intimidating weapon — we know that’s illogical, but it’s still worth remembering. This goes back to the original point of associating orange with safety.
Whether you’re going for the safety aspect, you don’t want to misplace your knife in the field, or you simply like the color, most major knife manufacturers offer orange as an option for the handle or the blade. We’re going to take a look at a few of these high-visibility knives.
Outdoor Edge
Razor EDC Lite 2.5
The RazorEDC Lite is a replaceable blade folding knife. It uses Japanese 420J2 stainless steel blades, which provide an excellent balance between corrosion resistance and edge retention. When the edge goes dull, you simply change the blade with the push of a button. Its handle has thermoplastic rubber insets that offer a secure grip, even in challenging conditions. This is several steps up from a traditional box cutter, razor knife, or sheetrock knife because the replacement blades offer a higher-quality steel and are available in a number of configurations.
Replacing blades seems a bit odd for an EDC knife, but the blades are sharp and seem to hold up well.
This makes for a great backup or alternate knife that has a very benign appearance.
Cons:
People have skinned deer and dressed game with these knives, but don’t mistake it for a hard use blade for prying or batoning wood.
The clip is set up for right-handed use only.
SOG
Ether FX
SOG’s Ether FX is one of those knives that’ll be a favorite with hikers, hunters, and anyone who must minimize the amount of weight that they’re carrying. This small and handy fixed blade comes with a high-tech-looking sheath that works better strapped to a pack as opposed to a belt mode of carry. It’s a very well-thought-out design from the perspective of a minimalist-style blade with plenty of dimples and jimping for tactile manipulation. Its orange scales should prevent you from losing it on a hike or mountain bike ride when you backtrack and see it laying wherever you might have dropped it.
S35VN steel is a good one that offers edge retention, strength, and corrosion resistance.
This lightweight knife is unbelievably rugged and capable.
The full-length jimping at the top of the blade makes for a very work-friendly type of knife.
Cons:
The blade could’ve been sharper.
The sheath design is awkward to mount consistently.
Cold Steel
Engage Clip Point
The Engage series of folding knives represents the introduction of Cold Steel’s exclusive, patent-pending Atlas Lock. This is a locking mechanism that has proven itself to be particularly strong and safe. The series is offered with a variety of steels and different blade lengths. The blade has a small indent on the spine that makes for a comfortable hold during precision work. The glass-filled nylon grips are ergonomically contoured for a secure grip and include large integral lanyard holes. The pocket clips are reversible for left- or right-handed use. Overall, it has a nice look with the contrast between orange and black.
The Atlas Lock is incredibly smooth and intuitive to use.
4116 steel may not be a top-shelf type, but it came sharp, resharpens easily, and is very rust resistant.
Cons:
The pocket clip was a bit tight and took a while to get it to hold just right in the pocket. This might work better in a sheath.
The placement of the Atlas Lock takes a little getting used to.
Sniper Bladeworks
UC Utility
The Weekender is a multi-bladed pocketknife equipped with tools to improve your weekend — or any day. It features a 3-inch clip-point blade for your EDC cutting needs, and a 2-inch drop-point blade for smaller cutting jobs; the bottle opener ensures all your favorite beverages can be opened with ease. The Weekender is a USA-made folder to enhance your life. The blades are made of CPM-S30V steel, ensuring that they stay sharp when you need them. The Micarta handle offers a great gripping surface and will last virtually forever. There are other versions of this model in the works with different blade options and colors of Micarta.
Very sharp out of the box with nice thin edges for slicing
CPM-S30V is a premium knife steel with superb edge retention.
The bottle opener comes in handy when you need it.
Cons:
As good a steel as S30V is, it can be difficult to sharpen.
There’s no lanyard hole on this to help you secure the knife.
T. Kell Knives
Striker (Hi Viz)
Tim Kell designed this model a few years ago as a compact military fighting knife, but that doesn’t preclude it from being suitable for daily carry. The clip point is a slight one, meaning that it could be confused with a drop point. The balance on this blade is incredible, and the grip fits in the hand well. This version features the Hi Viz color G10, but all the scales on T. Kell knives can easily be swapped out. These knives are designed and built by a Marine Corps veteran who learned what qualities make for a good working knife. The in-house proprietary heat treat is phenomenal with regard to making these knives combat ready.
Fantastic balance and works well in the forward and reverse grip
80Crv2 is a great steel that’s easy to sharpen and takes a ton of abuse.
Cons:
It’s great for a small concealable blade, but this model should be made as a full-sized fighting knife.
These knives are handmade and tend to sell out quickly, so availability can be an issue.
Microtech Knives
Ultratech DE
The Ultratech series is the flagship of Microtech’s OTF lines of knives. This one has an orange handle and a perfectly symmetrical double-edged blade. The spring in the firing mechanism is designed to remain at rest whether open or closed to reduce wear on the internals. The blade steel on this one is CTS 204 P, which is becoming the steel of choice for a lot of custom and high-end production knives. This knife carries well and the orange anodized handle on this model makes it easy to spot if you drop it. It also gives it a benign rescue look, at least until the automatic blade is deployed.
CTS 204 P seems to be a very good steel, and we found it easy to touch up the edge a bit.
The action is amazing and extremely smooth both opening and closing.
The handle has comfortable contours and texturing where you need it. Holding it is like shaking hands with an old friend.
Cons:
One side of the double-edged blade wasn’t as sharp as the other.
You need a proprietary tool to disassemble the knife.
Spyderco
Assist FRN Orange
Spyderco’s Assist was designed for emergency/fire/rescue professionals who rely on their knives. It has a blunt tip to prevent injuries while cutting someone free of a seatbelt or other predicament. It’s mostly serrated, but the first inch of the tip is a straight edge for detailed cutting. The wavy pattern along the top of the blade lets you place a piece of rope between the half-open blade and handle and scissor the blade shut. The safety orange FRN handle is nicely contoured to your palm. In the closed position, squeeze the blade deeper into the handle and a retractable glass breaker protrudes from the base. Outlined in contrasting black on the handle’s spine is a shrill survival whistle.
Ammo cans are the Tupperware of the emergency preparedness world. Although they were originally intended to carry loose ammunition or machine gun belts, we’ve seen these rugged, inexpensive stamped steel boxes repurposed to contain everything from tools and camp cooking utensils to fishing tackle, portable radios, and medical gear. Some DIYers even outfit them with batteries and USB ports to function as a portable charging station, or with speakers to serve as a boombox. Washington-based gear company Ignik Outdoors came up with their own ammo can contraption — a portable propane fire pit called the Ignik FireCan — and has continued to develop and upgrade it with some clever features.
Above: The FireCan Deluxe includes a grill insert with removable spring-loaded handle, a drip tray, and a 5-foot quick-release hose with an adjustable regulator. If you pack everything carefully, it all fits inside the FireCan for easy transport.
Buy or DIY?
The concept of converting an ammo can into a mini propane fire pit is nothing new. If you’re handy, you can make one by drilling a hole in the side of an ammo can, inserting a capped piece of pipe with some smaller holes drilled in it, and adding a fitting on the end to attach a propane tank. You can buy these cans in the form of DIY kits or complete units from a variety of vendors. You can also make a shotgun with some pipe, a roofing nail, and a 2×4 from the hardware store … but a Beretta 1301 it ain’t.
The moral of the story is that DIY projects are fun and can save you some money, but sometimes it’s worth paying more to have a thoughtfully engineered product with added features and quality-of-life improvements. Such is the case for the Ignik FireCan, especially its Deluxe package.
Above: The removable drip tray gathers any residual grease from your food, making cleaning easier and keeping mess to a minimum.
The standard edition of Ignik’s FireCan ($200 MSRP) is a powdercoated steel can with mesh grates cut into each side to increase airflow, heat transmission, and visibility of the flames. It also has heat-resistant silicone carry handles and four folding legs that lift the can off the ground, reducing the risk of your fire scorching the ground or spreading out of control. Rather than a basic screw-on propane connector, it has a locking quick-release fitting and includes a matching 5-foot hose with adjustable regulator. After removing the can’s lid and unfolding its legs, just connect the regulator to any standard 20-pound/4.6-gallon propane tank, or to one of Ignik’s convenient 5-pound/1.2-gallon Gas Growlers, as seen in this article. Then, click the other end of the hose onto your FireCan, light it through the included access hole, and enjoy your portable heat source.
For more radiant heat, you can fill the can with some fire rocks to increase its thermal mass. Ignik offers tumbled lava rocks which weigh 5 pounds, as well as ultra-lightweight 1-pound ceramic “Moon Rocks” that can be used to fill your FireCan. Each of these also varies the flame pattern to create a more natural fire pit experience, as opposed to the propane burner’s symmetrical jets.
Above: The Deluxe Gas Growler comes with a black padded carrying case as well as the standard adapter hose. With this setup, we won’t be buying any more of those short-lived green propane bottles for our camp stove.
FireCan Deluxe
Recently, Ignik introduced the FireCan Deluxe ($300 MSRP), which improves upon the regular FireCan in several areas. The first thing you’ll notice is its brushed silver finish, which indicates stainless steel construction. This will be more corrosion-resistant than the black powdercoated carbon steel, even if it gets a little scratched and banged up over time. It also discolors naturally into bronze and gunmetal hues with use, developing a unique patina. But its biggest difference is revealed when you open the lid.
Beneath its lid, the FireCan Deluxe features a removable grill insert that’s constructed from more stamped stainless steel. Its inner surface is ramped and slotted to funnel drippings down gutters and into a removable drip tray that sits in a slot at the base of the unit. Four hooks in the corners of the grill insert hold a 5×10-inch rectangular wire grill — the perfect size for hotdogs, hamburgers, chicken breasts, veggies, and other small items. Granted, you won’t be making a feast for the whole family on this setup, but it’s perfect for cooking a quick meal for one or two people.
Above: These ultra-light Moon Rocks resemble charcoal briquettes, but they’re actually made from blown ceramic. Placed atop the burners, they make the flames dance and help your FireCan give off more radiant heat.
Initiating Grill Mode, as Ignik calls it, requires a slightly different setup than Fire Pit Mode. The FireCan Deluxe contains three burner pipes, rather than two on the original FireCan. The two outside burners are connected to a propane inlet port on one end of the can, and have holes that are angled upward, producing tall yellow-orange flames for Fire Pit Mode. With its propane inlet on the other side of the can, the center Grill Mode burner has its holes arranged horizontally, creating a low blue flame similar to what you’d see on a kitchen stove or propane barbecue. The end result is precise, even heat that cooks food quickly without engulfing it in yellow flames and leaving it tasting like propane.
Remembering which end of the FireCan to connect your propane tank to would be tricky, so Ignik etched helpful pictograms onto each end of the stainless steel box. Next to the Grill Mode inlet, there’s an image of the grill insert and a hot dog on a skewer; the Fire Pit Mode inlet shows the can with tall flames coming out of it.
Gas Growler Deluxe
Although the FireCan can be connected to any run-of-the-mill 20-pound propane tank, such as those found under most barbecue grills, lugging one of those around with such a small fire pit seems impractical. The FireCan’s compact and portable design had us wanting a more portable fuel source. Unsurprisingly, Ignik has a solution: the Gas Growler.
The most basic version of the Gas Growler ($110) is essentially a standard 5-pound propane tank with an Ignik logo and a few extras. It has rubberized strips applied to the sharp edges on the top and bottom of the tank, preventing it from digging into your palm as you carry it or sliding around on smooth surfaces. It also includes a 4-foot adapter hose that allows this larger tank to be used with 1-inch 20UNEF propane devices — the kind that normally require disposable 16-ounce green propane bottles. So, in addition to fueling the FireCan, we can use this tank with our Camp Chef stove and other propane-powered camping gear.
Speaking of green propane bottles, they’re a hassle to carry and swap out, and they’re also not environmentally friendly due to their single-use, disposable design. A full Gas Growler lasts as long as five green bottles, but refilling it costs about the same as one ($5) and you won’t be packing out a bunch of empty and partially used bottles at the end of each trip. It’s less wasteful and more cost-effective — that’s a win-win.
The Gas Growler Deluxe edition ($150) adds a high-quality fitted carrying case in either a retro-style white/orange/brown color scheme or plain satin black (an easy choice for us). The case adds cushioning to protect the tank, makes it easier to carry, and has enough room for the hose, a wrench, and other small items under its zippered lid. The outside of the case is lined with two rows of nylon MOLLE webbing that could be used to strap the tank down or retain tools.
Granted, if you don’t care about the hose, edge protectors, and carrying case, you can save some money and buy a generic 5-pound propane tank at Home Depot for about $50. The FireCan works just fine with one of those.
Above: At the base of the FireCan, two of the burners are angled upward to give off tall, warm flames in Fire Pit Mode. The third burner produces a row of smaller blue flames down the middle for Grill Mode.
In the Field
We spent several months testing our FireCan and Gas Growler, both for fire pit duties and for cooking meals. It’s pretty much perfect for overlanding adventures where space inside the vehicle is already occupied by lots of other gear. A full-size fire pit would normally be considered a luxury item for those trips — nice to have, but not really worth packing and unpacking at every stop. The FireCan and Gas Growler, however, are small and light enough that they’re easy to justify bringing along. The multi-functional nature of having a 5-pound propane tank to power a Camp Chef stove makes it an even easier decision.
Admittedly, the heat from the FireCan isn’t nearly as powerful as a full-blown campfire, but on a chilly evening, two to four people can sit close to the FireCan and still remain comfortable. Unlike a campfire, it’s extremely fast to set up and tear down. In less than 30 seconds, you can get a roaring fire going, and (once it’s cooled down for a few minutes) you can pack it up in a similar time frame. In situations where you may only want a fire for an hour or two before bed, that’s really convenient. The FireCan also doesn’t require gathering enough firewood to sustain a campfire, which usually ends up being a lot more wood than you think you’ll need.
As for grilling, the FireCan Deluxe worked great for hamburgers and hot dogs. The adjustable regulator included with the FireCan made it easy to fine-tune the heat source as our food cooked. Grease collected nicely in the drip tray, and while cleaning wasn’t as easy as a flat-top grill, it wasn’t too difficult. We’d recommend cleaning the grill thoroughly before packing or transporting it — if there’s any grease left on it when you pack up the FireCan, it’ll act as a grease-scented air freshener inside your vehicle until you disassemble and wash it.
Above: A quick-detach collar makes it simple to attach the FireCan to a propane source without leaks or threading on connectors.
A Note About Fire Restrictions
In wildfire country, it’s normal for the local forestry service to issue bans on open campfires during the dry months. This is a major bummer for anyone who’s planning a camping trip, because sitting around an LED lantern doesn’t have the same appeal as sitting around a warm fire. Thankfully, there are usually exemptions for propane-fueled fire pits and stoves — this means that the FireCan is one of the few ways to safely and legally have a fire at the campsite during wildfire season. Check your local laws to see if this is also true in your area, but if it is, it’s a major selling point for the FireCan and other propane fire pits.
Above: The size of this grill is ideal for two burger patties. If you’re making cheeseburgers, drop the FireCan’s lid back on to trap the heat and melt the cheese slices faster.
Closing Thoughts
The Ignik FireCan Deluxe is a versatile tool for camping, overlanding, family outings, and even for use on the back patio at home. Everyone enjoys watching the “Ranger TV” — an old Army Ranger nickname for the hypnotizing allure of a fire — and basking in the warmth it gives off. Although we mostly found ourselves using the FireCan in Fire Pit Mode, the Deluxe edition’s Grill Mode is a nice added feature, and it allowed us to quickly whip up a few burgers or brats at campsites that didn’t have other cooking amenities. The Gas Growler also pairs nicely with the FireCan to create a portable system, so we can bring an instant heat source wherever we go.
In the book, How to Survive in the Woods by Bradford Angier released in 1969, the author asserts the following about a survival firearm: “The best survival weapon, it follows, is a flat and hard shooting rifle. There is no need to append that it should be rugged, accurate, and durable.” Angier, considered to be one of the foremost voices in the survival community prior to the explosion of internet survival stars, formulated a very logical argument for carrying a rifle as a tool to put meat over the fire. In 1969, the leading .22 rifles on the market were the Armalite AR-7, Marlin model 60, Ruger 10/22, and Remington Model 66.
Even today, despite a couple of them being out of production, these firearms are among the best available, and countless used gun racks have excellent working examples of these durable wilderness tools. Angier was a prolific writer and had dozens of titles to his name. In an even earlier book, he advocated for a centerfire rifle, shotgun, and .22 for long-term living away from society. This practical combination will work just as well today as it did in his era, though the cost of feeding them has made practice with the centerfires much more expensive. Angier’s survival firearm recommendations also added fuel to the “if you only had one gun” campfire debate. Would it be better to have a .22 for taking small game to fill the pot once and also allowing you to carry more ammo, or would it be better to have a larger centerfire rifle to take one animal that you could preserve the meat to create days of rations? The appropriate solution is still a popular philosophical debate.
Above: Standing is the quickest position to get into but also the most unstable. It is most suitable for shorter distance shots or when less time is available for a firing solution.
Since Angier’s time, survival rifles have taken off in popularity with many companies offering take-down models, synthetic furniture, and accoutrements like M-LOK handguards, adjustable stocks, and removable muzzle devices. Firearm ownership has skyrocketed, and the meat shortage of the COVID pandemic left gun store racks empty with folks accepting the idea of hunting their own if supermarkets couldn’t provide. “Survival” became more broadly defined as not just wilderness, but urban and suburban as well.
Since the first publication of this book, there have been great advancements in how marksmanship is taught, not only for the woods but for the concrete jungle many of us live in. What remains the same are the fundamentals of marksmanship no matter how you use your rifle. Plinking is casual shooting, where it’s easy to blow through 100 rounds in a fun session, but survival shooting is anything but laid back. Each round matters, and how you train should set you up for success when your reality goes sideways. Events of the past few years means it’s worthwhile revisiting the survival rifle concept and, more importantly, the training that mimics reality. We selected a basic .22LR rifle, much like the type Angier recommended, and have highlighted some of the important positions to train and develop like your life depended on them — as someday it might.
Above: A quick kneel (high or low) can greatly increase stability. The shooter should avoid bone-on-bone contact with the elbow and the knee.
The How and Why
In the early 20th century, the big three shooting positions were standing, kneeling, and prone. Shooting from the prone position offers great stability, but in the field this ideal is seldom presented as a reasonable option. More likely, shots will be taken by hasty kneeling, sitting, or standing with your rifle supported against a tree. You can practice with any firearm, getting into position and dry-firing, but running drills cold doesn’t provide any proof on paper. The jarring recoil of larger centerfire rifles may dissuade shooters from sustained practice from these unconventional shooting positions. The much friendlier .22 rifle helps the shooter make adjustments to their structure, determining if it holds up to pressure and if it results in hits on target.
Above: Whether you're using an AR-15, bolt gun, or a .22LR varmint rifle, learning to work from a variety of positions can make you a more well-rounded shooter. This is especially important in a survival setting where every round counts.
Every shooting position presents a trade-off. Prone is stable but takes the greatest time to settle into. Standing is dynamic and allows easier reloading but is less stable. In a survival situation, variations of prone, seated, kneeling, standing, and support side shooting may be needed. Using available objects for increased stability, such as firing off of a backpack or resting the rifle forend on a tree branch, is a real possibility. Training should mimic these scenarios. Additionally, as you move from the most stable to the least stable positions, the size of the target should change to reflect the difficulty of the shot.
Above: Prone is the most stable position but it can be rendered useless in tall grass. Note the shooter’s flat heels and bone structure supporting the rifle
In this economy, perhaps the most compelling argument for training with a .22 is to save money. Material cost has skyrocketed, and the cost of ammunition has steadily risen in turn. The fundamentals of marksmanship can be learned with a rimfire rifle and then later applied to centerfire ammunition. While the diminutive .22 isn’t as capable as .223/5.56 or .30-caliber counterparts, the building blocks of good marksmanship can be applied to either round at closer distances and tracked on paper targets without the need to compare rimfire and centerfire ballistically.
Above: Seated shots are accomplished with legs crossed or extended based on flexibility and comfort. Legs can also be extended if the terrain is not level.
8 Positions to Train
Standing: The standing position, sometimes called “offhand,” offers the fastest solution from a low-ready or high-ready posture. For instance, you may have to take a snapshot at an animal you come across while hiking along a trail. For a quick standing shot, find a repeatable touch point on the chest with the toe of the buttstock, and hold the rifle in position with the optic or sights coming in line with your eye. Standing is quick, but it lacks stability. It’s best used when there’s little time to set up or when your target is close enough. As the range increases, so should your ability to seek a better position for a more stable shot. Standing is optimized with the use of a sling wrapped around the upper arm. One of the benefits of standing is the ability to start walking or running to another location quickly.
Above: Urban Prone (as pictured) uses the cover provided by a vehicle’s axle. The shooter can maintain stability by pushing off of the vehicle’s tire.
Kneeling: If there’s an opportunity to take a knee before a shot, it’ll increase your stability and reduce your profile. Kneeling can be done hastily with an upright posture, or compressed where you sit back on your heel. You can rest more of your shin flat against the ground for additional comfort. Kneeling is an excellent option to lower your level and silhouette. From a compressed kneeling position, place the outside of your support arm on the inside of your upright leg. Avoid bone-on-bone support between your elbow and kneecap. The duration a shooter can maintain a kneeling position will be determined by the substrate on the ground and fitness factors.
Prone: The prone position is the most stable of all the shooting positions, but it takes more time to establish. Prone uses the structure of your arm bones to support the weight of the rifle against the ground. The trade-off for greater stability is the time it takes to reposition if your sights need to move outside of the range of motion prone provides. Prone can also become uncomfortable in colder weather, as it places the body’s core against the ground where rapid conduction cooling takes place. If possible, a sleeping pad can be used as insulation if time permits to set up for a shot. Prone requires more time to work in and out of than kneeling or standing, but the level of accuracy improves dramatically with more points of contact against an immovable object that you’re resting on.
Above: Stacked feet looks ridiculous to some until they achieve hits with it. Much like barricade shooting, rest the forend and not the barrel to avoid point of impact shifts.
Squat/Crouch: Both squatting and crouching are quick to work into position and reduce your profile. Depending on your own flexibility, you’ll either be able to squat (range of motion will vary, with the greatest being able to sit on their feet) or crouch (similar to kneeling with one leg in front of the other without the knee touching the ground) to various lower levels. Squatting and crouching for some will be limited to bending over slightly at the waistline. Bending at the waistline requires core muscle input and creates muscle fatigue. As lactic acid builds up, your sight picture will become more unstable. Consider this option if you’re hunting in thick brush and dropping your level moves the muzzle below branches that obstruct your shot. A shot from the squat/crouch should be taken quickly before your body fights you. From the squat or the crouch, it’s easy to transition back to standing or lower yourself further into a kneeling or seated position.
Seated: The seated position takes time to establish but is second to prone in terms of stability. Seated can be with ankles crossed, legs crossed, or legs extended based on your comfort level and flexibility. Much like the kneeling position with the elbow of the support arm on the inside of the thigh, the strong side elbow is placed on the inside of the strong side high, creating a base. This reduces the amount of muscular input needed to hold the position, providing more durability. Just like the prone position, you place a large portion of your body on the potentially cold or wet ground, and a good sleeping pad or even a stadium seat can help improve your comfort for a long sit. The seated position can be used in tall grass that would otherwise obstruct the view from the prone position. Seated is moderately durable with repeated shots possible, but you must adjust your natural point of aim if working with a moving target outside the range of motion your seat provides.
Urban Prone: Think of urban prone (also called “Rollover prone”) like a modified sideways prone position. It’s accomplished from either side of the body based on your position relative to the cover and opening available. Urban prone can be done with knees and a shoulder on the ground or tucked to one side with legs compressed in to minimize your profile. While this position takes its name from the tactical world, where shots underneath vehicles, from behind the limited cover of a curbside, and through small firing ports are the only options, it could also be applied in a woodland environment where stacked downed trees provide concealment from your prey and limited options for a more traditional shooting posture. Urban prone is typically taught with AR-style rifles, but it can be used with traditional bolt guns as long as you have the same understanding of sight/bore offset and holds. In both urban and woodland settings, make sure to provide enough offset for your firearm’s moving parts if using a semi-auto weapon so the ground doesn’t cause malfunctions.
Above: A tree can be used to assist with an incredibly stable shot. If time allows, the sling can be undone and used as an additional support wrapped around the pole.
Tree/Post/Wall Assist: Bipods and tripods are excellent supports for your rifle, but they’re not always practical to install or carry. You can utilize rooted trees, posts, or walls as an alternative shooting aide. Use the support hand to brace against the tree, post, or wall, and hold the rifle in position with your thumb under the forend. You can also hold the front of the sling like a vertical foregrip to keep the rifle steady. This assist can be utilized standing, crouched, kneeling, or seated as well. Even a walking stick can be used as a makeshift monopod using this technique. It’s absolutely vital not to rest the barrel of the rifle against anything in the process of using a tree, post, or wall as an assist or in any of the other positions mentioned. Your barrel has unique harmonics that will be disrupted if it comes in contact with an object, and accuracy will suffer.
Stacked Feet: While this position looks awkward, results downrange justify its use. With legs extended and feet stacked on top of one another, you can bring the height of your muzzle above other conventional seated positions by placing the forend of the rifle on the top of your boot. This position works well for heavy barreled rifles that tax the body more than slimmer profiled barrels. Stacking your feet requires some balance but once you get the hang of it, it works well for longer distance shots. The trade-off is mobility and limited range of movement. Since the position requires flexibility and balance, it’s also not a good position for sustained use. If you happen to have the assistance of a training partner, they can place their knee/shin against your back to allow you to lean back against it and achieve greater stability. If no partner is available, you can lean your back against a rock, tree, or hillside.
Modifiers
With all of these positions, there are ways to modify your training to adjust the difficulty level and performance expectations. Just like the flat range doesn’t always translate over to real life self-defense events, you must go beyond the basics to fall back on in a survival scenario. Keep in mind that you won’t rise to the occasion, you’ll fall back on your level of training. It’s better to train with increased difficulty to make a difficult situation you actually face later less imposing. It’s easy to incorporate some training modifiers that provide a greater difficulty level for newbie to experienced shooters.
Time is universal in all shooting positions. There’s an amount of time needed to get into position, an interval of time between shots, and a total amount of time from start to finish. You can track your time with a shot timer, or a training partner can use their smartphone to record you. If you have the space and backstops are plentiful, you can do a woods walk with a training partner with targets staged in various places. You don’t have to let your training partner know when to be prepared to take a shot; just tell them to locate and engage the target hidden in the woods, much like an animal would be. After all, the animals you’re training to hunt in an emergency don’t live their lives tacked to a target backer at a set distance down range.
Above: The author’s Ruger 10/22 with Leupold 3-9 Rimfire optic in Talley Rings used for this article in the mountains of Spanish Fork, Utah.
Another element that can be modified is the distance to your target. The vital area of the game you’re hunting won’t change in size, but the way it appears to your naked eye (unless you adjust a scope) will change as the range increases. You must understand how your round travels once it leaves the barrel, compared to your line of sight. Many animals that are easy to hunt may travel in groups, so follow-up shots may be needed once the first animal is dropped. You can pair training far shots with near shots in your training evolution, or you can test yourself with far and farther shots too.
Yet another modifier is a strict standard for accuracy. You can use coins, bottle caps, or any other metric as a maximum allowed group all of your rounds must fall inside of for a particular shooting position. Eventually, you can jump to heavier calibers, which is the whole point of using your rimfire. The increased recoil, more pronounced muzzle report, and disturbance to your natural point of aim will affect your performance. However, if you adhere to the fundamentals and spend enough time working with a rimfire, the transition to centerfire shouldn’t be too much of a leap. The hard part is learning the macro aspects of positional shooting, which you can accomplish with a micro-caliber rifle.
Bilateral rifle shooting may also be needed in a survival scenario. You may be pursuing a particularly spookish animal and shooting from your strong side would expose you and cause the animal to flee. Working your support side may be the only option. Additionally, if you’re in a survival scenario, you may have sustained injuries including your eyes. Learning to use your non-dominant eye and side will help you prepare for that scenario. If nothing else, bilateral shooting helps you work through the fundamentals, as you may have to relearn the basics to put rounds on target down range.
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When you’re out camping or hiking and old man winter strikes with an unexpected fury, it can be challenging to stay safe, much less comfortable. Sudden temperature and weather shifts can transform a chilly day outside into a harrowing or even deadly incident, especially for those who are caught underprepared. But don’t worry — even if you’re not acclimated to harsh winter weather, there are a few easy cold weather tips to make any outdoor experience more enjoyable. In this article, we’ll explore them together.
Remember the Basics
There’s no denying the incredible experiences and unforgettable moments that can be had in the great outdoors during the winter months, despite the cold temperatures. And while some of the basic rules may seem like common sense, they’re absolutely essential to ensure a safe and enjoyable trip. So, let’s briefly cover the basics and equip ourselves to tackle any cold-weather adventure.
Layer Up
You’ll enjoy any trip a whole lot more if you keep yourself warm. However, that doesn’t mean you should just throw a heavy coat over your everyday T-shirt and call it good enough. It’s best to wear multiple layers of clothing that trap air and insulate your body. Start with a base layer of wool or synthetic material that wicks moisture away from your skin; avoid cotton, as it absorbs sweat and loses its insulative properties. Next, wear a mid-layer of fleece or wool for added warmth. Finally, wear an outer layer of waterproof and windproof material that shields you from the elements. Remember to cover your head, hands, and feet with hats, gloves, and socks made of materials other than cotton.
Above: After finding his way out of a freak blizzard overnight, the author reflects on his winter experience in California’s Angeles National Forest.
Stay Dry
This point goes hand-in-hand with the last one. Getting wet can lower your body temperature and increase your risk of hypothermia. Avoid sweating by removing layers if you begin to overheat and reduce your level of physical exertion if necessary. If you get wet from rain, snow, or sweat, change into dry clothes as soon as possible. Keep your sleeping bag (or camper’s quilt, blanket, etc.) and gear dry by storing them in waterproof pack liners or bags. Bring extra socks and dry the wet pairs out by the campfire, because there are few things more miserable than cold, wet feet.
Eat and Drink Well
Your body needs more calories to stay warm in cold weather. Eat high-energy foods rich in carbohydrates, fats, and proteins, such as nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, cheese, and granola bars. When going on a winter camping trip or day hike, it is recommended to consume high-calorie foods with fats as they can help keep your body warm. As you hike, your body will metabolize the food and generate heat.
It’s also essential to pay attention to the importance of staying hydrated during cold weather. Though people might not associate winter with being thirsty, it’s crucial to drink water to keep your body functioning correctly. Avoid eating snow as a replacement for water, as it’ll cool you down instead of warming you up. Instead, melt it in a kettle or metal water bottle and drink it. Keep drinking water close enough to your body to prevent it from freezing or keep it near a campfire.
It’s also advisable to take advantage of cooking hot meals and drinking warm beverages before sleeping. They can help you stay warmer than uncooked food and dehydrated snacks. Make pine needle, spruce, or hemlock tea for a hot vitamin C-infused drink. However, it’s wise to avoid consuming alcoholic beverages like beer and hard cider as they can cause multiple trips to the bathroom, leading to a loss of the warm microclimate you’ve been painstakingly creating.
Above: Cold weather winter outings must be taken seriously. Equip yourself physically and mentally for when Mother Nature gets pissed.
Be Ready for the Unexpected
Let’s say you’ve done your best and followed as many pre-planning tips as possible, yet the weather changes. It happens. Several years ago, I went on a backpacking trip in the Angeles National Forest in California. Back then, the snowline was about 6,500 feet — we were at only 4,000 feet. This was early November in a state that’s not known for rain or snow, in general. We hiked in with sunglasses and the sun on our faces. Later that night, we heard the sound of a light pitter-patter on our tarps as we hung in our hammocks enjoying the late autumn night. Eventually, the light tapping turned into a tin roof cat dance, and it was coming down hard. I told my cousin to pull the tarp over tight as it started to sprinkle before it was a full-on rain — or so we thought.
After about 40 minutes of it, nature called, as it often abruptly does in the worst of times. I pulled the tarp back and turned in the sitting position to grab my shoes. To my surprise, I saw a sea of white powder. It wasn’t sprinkling, nor was it ever raining — we had snow. It was 1 a.m., and the thought of “What will we do tomorrow?” hit hard. Expected lows of 50 degrees F became 20 degrees. It was time to act. What would you do in this situation?
Above: Throughout the night, the author remained comfortable while sheltered under a tarp (with bivy) that effectively prevented heat loss. Despite the temperature dropping to 8 degrees F and the continuous onslaught of wind-blown rain and snow, he stayed warm and dry.
Stay Active
Waking up cold sucks. Waking up freezing in a blizzard is serious business. It’s common to wake up in the middle of the night while camping, especially if you need to pee. Remember that your body stays warm naturally through movement and digestion, so it may be helpful to get up and start moving around. Make sure you have a saw and a large piece of wood to saw and help create heat before you attempt to go back to sleep. Building a campfire can also be a great way to warm yourself up. Take advantage of the opportunity to warm up water for your water bottle or hydration bag. Once you’re feeling warm and cozy, you can try to get back to sleep.
Moving around can help you generate heat and improve your blood flow. Do simple exercises, such as jumping jacks, squats, or push-ups to warm up your muscles and joints. However, keep yourself from overheating and sweating profusely.
An old-timer’s trick used by experienced campers is to carry a candle in a pocket. When taking a break from hiking or setting up camp, they would light the candle and sit upright while draping a coat or blanket over themselves. This helps trap the heat from the candle and keep warm, making it a great way to thaw out and recharge quickly before continuing the hike.
Above: Dale Kiselyk of Karamat Wilderness Ways in Canada stands outside a completed snow cave.
Seek Shelter
When you’re hiking and you get hit with an unexpected storm, it’s essential to find a sheltered spot. This can help you stay warm by blocking the wind and retaining heat. Good spots to consider include areas under trees, behind rocks, or in caves. However, it’s important to know about potential hazards, such as falling branches, rockslides, or wild animals.
If you have a tent, make sure to set it up on a flat and dry spot that’s away from water sources or low-lying areas. It’s also a good idea to use a ground cloth and pad to insulate yourself from the cold ground. This is more crucial than most people give proper attention to. Don’t neglect it! Before getting into your sleeping system, fluff it up and zip it to keep warm. Additionally, you can use a blanket, bivy sack, or emergency mylar blanket for extra warmth.
Above: After getting caught in a blizzard in the Northeast Woodlands, the author was properly equipped with warm clothing. To avoid frostbite and hypothermia, the author covers up completely to preserve body heat.
Hard Lessons Learned
One winter, I was fresh back from assisting a tracking/survival class in Louisiana on an Army base where the low was 50 degrees F. Afterward, I was flown to the East Coast with trail runners and deerskin bottom moccasins as my only footwear — in December. News said there would be a monumental blizzard closing in. Soon after, my phone lit up with a buddy saying, “Terrible storm closing in, I’ll pick you up at 7 a.m. to camp.” This was the first time I got frostbite.
We hiked in the cold, crisp air of the early East Coast winter, observing black bear and deer tracks. By the way, I chose the trail runners. Suddenly, the sky opened up, and icy rain and snow fell. Time to act.
In no time, the best of the worst campsites was selected, and we went to work establishing what would be our cozy impromptu camp. After clearing the ground of as much snow as we could, kicking it aside, it was time to bulk up on the ground insulation. Leaves and debris were covered with snow, but we had birch bark from nature’s store. The birch bark served double duty as a fire accelerant and ground padding. Large pieces of bark were used as insulation with my pack liner (a tall kitchen garbage bag), filled with frozen leaves harvested from under the snow. On top of all that, I placed my torso-sized closed-cell foam pad. It was enough to fight conduction from the cold ground. Tarps were set, and we quickly got a fire going to stave off the chill.
Above: Calorie-up for a winter trip and take advantage of high-caloric foods to help generate heat while asleep.
Hone Your Fire-Building Skills
When camping or surviving alone, fire can be a great companion. Not only does it boost morale, but fire preparation also provides us with a task that keeps us warm. Fire is one of the few things that can keep us entertained for long periods without speaking a single word. In fact, fire serves several vital purposes, such as warming us up, drying clothes, boiling water, and cooking food — especially during the winter.
It’s always a good idea to keep at least three ways of starting a fire on hand, especially in colder weather when a fire can be a lifesaver. A ferrocerium (ferro) rod, stormproof matches, and a lighter are all examples of items that can help with ignition. However, building and maintaining a fire must be practiced to ensure you can successfully get one going when it matters most.
When camping in cold weather, it’s vital to lay down a wooden platform first to serve as a base for the fire. This is especially true if there’s ice, snow, or moisture from rain on the ground. The forest floor is the coldest thing around, and it can quickly drain the heat from our fire. By laying down wood, we can create a barrier between the fire and the cold ground. The wooden platform will eventually become part of the coal bed, so it’s best to choose hardwood if possible.
Practicing fire-building skills in places like a family car campsite, beach bonfire pit, or backyard can be a great way to prepare ourselves for camping in colder weather. These skills can come in handy in case of an emergency or if we want to impress our fellow cold-weather campers.
Above: Fire is used to melt snow and make Hemlock needle tea while providing warmth, hydration, and a healthy state of mind.
Six Ways to Improve Your Winter Sleep
Urinate: As you prepare to settle down in your sleep system, it’s crucial to ensure that your body is warm enough to promote a good night’s sleep. One of the ways to achieve this is by emptying your bladder before you hit the sack. The reason behind this is that the body uses up a significant amount of heat to warm urine, which can be better used to keep the rest of your body warm and comfortable. So, urinate as much as possible to avoid any unnecessary heat loss that could lead to discomfort during the night.
Hot Water Bottle: During cold winter nights, you can keep warm by filling a water bottle or hydration bladder with hot water. Place it at your feet, between your thighs, or near your torso to keep these areas cozy. If you have two water bottles, add another to increase the warmth. The best part is that you don’t have to get out of bed to drink water when you wake up.
Change Socks: If you have a second pair of socks, changing them before bed is one of the best tips I can give. Feet can become damp due to rain, melted snow, or sweat. Therefore, it’s important to keep them dry and warm by changing into fresh socks. I always carry a pair of Arctic Carhartt socks in the winter, which feel incredibly warm and cozy to slip on at night.
Bivy: Using a bivy bag while camping can benefit cold sleepers. It captures and retains body heat effectively, adding 5 to 10 degrees of warmth to your sleep system. However, it’s important to note that condensation may be an issue in colder weather if you don’t use a breathable bivy. Additionally, some people may feel confined in a bivy bag, so it’s worth trying a larger size to see if it suits your needs better.
Beanie: Even a light beanie can do wonders in the cold. In fact, a Buff-style neck gaiter can double as an emergency beanie and help retain heat. I prefer Alpaca wool or fleece beanies and will never camp without one. Since essential body heat escapes through the neck and head, it can also be a reason why people get cold feet. The late survival guru Ron Hood used to say, “If you have cold feet, cover your head.”
Ground Pad: A good ground pad is often overlooked in cold-weather gear. Heat loss to the ground can be a real issue. Even if you spend $300 or more on a high-quality sleeping bag, you may still end up freezing all night because you didn’t get a good sleeping pad or didn’t use one at all. I recommend using a closed-cell foam pad, which is lightweight, inexpensive, and nearly indestructible during regular use.
Above: Winter meals like stews and soups are not only comforting and warming but also packed with nutrients. Chicken soup and lentil stew are great options to try.
Five Heat Loss Mechanisms
It’s one thing to be cold and another to know why you’re cold. Understanding these five mechanisms will help you get one step closer to avoiding or preventing them.
Conduction is felt by losing body heat when contacting colder surfaces, such as the ground.
Convection is another way of saying wind; it saps the heat out of your body almost as fast as water.
Radiation is heat loss through the skin into the air, especially your head and neck.
Respiration is experienced when we exhale warm body heat.
Perspiration/moisture is any water (such as sweat) that draws heat away from your body. The evaporation of this moisture also amplifies the effect of convection to further chill us.
Above: When it comes to winter fires, make them big. The author starts a winter fire and maintains it throughout the night for warmth and cook coals.
Be Ready to Become a Cave-Dweller
If you actually get caught in the snow, be it a snowstorm or a place with deep snow, you may have to make a snow cave. This is grueling work and runs a high risk of overheating, but it could save your life if you don’t have another adequate shelter. Thick snow walls offer an insulated shelter and can keep you warm and safe from the elements. Digging a snow cave requires a shovel or sturdy metal cook pot to assist in the scooping of snow.
To make a snow cave, find an area with deep, compacted snow. Dig a hole in the snow that’s big enough to crawl into but not so big that it’ll be challenging to keep warm. Use a shovel or other tool to make the cave walls thick and sturdy. Once you have dug out the inside of the cave, smooth the walls and ceiling with a flat tool such as a snow saw or ski. After that, let the snow walls settle and harden for a few hours before you start using the cave. Finally, cover the entrance with a tarp or other material to keep the wind and snow out. Remember to practice safe snow cave-building techniques and avoid creating a cave in areas with avalanche risks.
Above: Birchbark is versatile in the woods as a cutting board, serving platter, sitting pad, and ground insulation.
Closing Thoughts
Camping in winter is a lot of fun, but weather can change quickly, and you’ll end up in serious trouble if you’re not prepared. It’s crucial to take proper measures to stay safe and comfortable. First, ensure you have warm and waterproof clothing, including layers to keep you insulated. Next, keep your body temperature up by staying active and eating high-calorie foods. If you’re in an emergency, it’s essential to have the right gear, such as a sturdy shelter and a reliable heat source. Finally, be prepared to improvise, such as building a shelter from natural materials or digging into the snow for added insulation.
Above: A long-fire is an excellent way to stay warm and cook in cold weather, especially if you need to sleep next to it.
About the Author
Adventurer, writer, photographer, and survival instructor for Randall’s Adventure & Training, Reuben Bolieu has spent most of his life hiking and backpacking through the wildernesses of the world. He has traveled abroad in extreme environments and seeks out primitive survival techniques, construction, and uses of knives and edged tools. Bolieu has published many articles on survival, knife and tool use, and woodcraft. He remains a lifetime student of survival.
Above: Yellow Birch bark is an excellent resource in the wilderness. The bark is flammable, and larger pieces can be used for insulation and mats.
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Pop quiz: What’s one thing that happens in every rifle gunfight? The answer is simple. At least one of the shooters raises the gun from some sort of ready position, aims it at the target, deactivates the safety, and fires the first round. There are many things that can happen after that, but the beginning is always the same. In training circles, this is often called a ready-up drill, and many advanced shooters see it as being excessively basic — perhaps even boring. Those same shooters might prefer to show off their lightning-fast reloads or ability to shoot from difficult positions, since this looks cool on social media. But for Bob Keller (owner of Gamut Resolutions), a U.S. Army Special Operations veteran who spent more than 10 years in 1st Special Forces Operational Detachment – Delta (also known as Delta Force, Combat Applications Group (CAG), or simply The Unit), the basic ready-up drill is the foundation all other training must be built upon. “The boring stuff is critical,” he explained. “Ready-up is a 100-percent guarantee in every fight. Everything else is a maybe.”
When Bob Keller talks about what wins gunfights, you listen. Over the course of more than two decades in special operations, he has participated in more than 1,000 real-world direct-action hits and had more than 400 engagements — a professional way of saying shooting an enemy combatant and/or getting shot at, often in extremely close quarters. These days, Keller trains American citizens how to survive real gunfights through classes from his company, Gamut Resolutions. We attended his Introduction to Tactical Carbine and Pistol course in Phoenix, Arizona, to improve our skills with these weapons.
Above: Bob Keller has more than a decade of experience winning fights as a member of what many consider to be America’s most elite special operations unit. As a result, he doesn’t hesitate to draw clear lines between important skills and useless range theatrics.
Always Practice the Basics
At the start of the class, as you might guess, we began with simple ready-up drills with our carbines. We were reminded that accuracy is more important than speed. However, the goal time was anything but slow: 0.5 seconds to a hit on a 3-inch circle at 10 yards. We were also reminded that the drill doesn’t end when the shot breaks; always reset the trigger and be prepared to shoot again. Don’t reactivate the safety too soon! If the gun goes empty, your reflex should be to reload immediately and get back on target.
Speaking of reloads, this was another subject where Keller’s experience shed some light on the reality of gunfights. “I’ve gone to bolt lock one time in combat. I only remember two other dudes I saw do it in a fight,” he said. As a result, he told students to treat emergency reloads as something that shouldn’t happen, like a malfunction. Instead, get into the habit of performing a combat reload (i.e., replacing a partially empty mag with a full one) whenever it’s possible. Keller also encourages tugging the mag downward during each reload, and periodically while carrying a carbine, ensuring it’s fully seated at all times. You may have seen someone shoulder a gun, only for the mag to fall out — in combat, that could be a fatal error.
Next, we practiced shooting our carbines from our support side. Keller explained this is essential for working around cover, and a skill you should practice until you have no doubt about using it when your life is on the line. Left-handed reloads were tricky; for those of us without ambidextrous rifles, we slid our support hand back to the receiver to press the mag release, then hit the bolt release with the firing hand. After getting more comfortable shooting from the support side, we began working transitions from shoulder to shoulder. This begins with the dominant hand releasing the pistol grip and moving forward to the magwell. Then, the support hand takes its place on the pistol grip, and the stock moves to the other shoulder. Don’t forget to switch feet with each transition for improved stability.
As for positional shooting, Keller didn’t spend any time teaching prone or kneeling techniques, which he says are rarely useful in his experience. Why? Consider how many of the obstacles around you in urban environments — buildings, walls, vehicles, etc. — will at least partly obscure your view of a human-sized target from a prone or kneeling stance. While standing, you can see targets clearly and keep moving as you return fire.
Sidearm Skills
On day two, we started with a skill assessment with pistols at 25 yards. As Keller explained, there’s no warmup before a gunfight, so there was no warmup for us either. Each student was graded on a scale of 500 points based on accurate hits with slow and fast fire using both hands, dominant hand only, and support hand only. Keller said the test results should scare you — at 25 yards with a pistol, you have to do everything perfect, and if you miss, it can kill someone. To be on Keller’s team in The Unit, each member had to score above 400 points on demand, every single time. I only managed a 342.
Much like shooting a carbine, we were reminded to always be ready to continue firing after breaking the first shot; stay ready on the trigger as long as you’re on target. As for the draw, it’s just as important as a ready-up with a carbine, so practice it until it’s fast and consistent. Keller said, “There is no multi-step draw process in a gunfight. It’s one smooth motion.” We also practiced immediate action (i.e., malfunction) drills, reloads, and shooting one-handed from either side — the latter is challenging but necessary, due to the high likelihood you’ll be fighting through some form of injury.
Lastly, we brought it all together with carbine-to-pistol transitions. If you’re forced to draw your sidearm in combat, it’s typically the result of a malfunction with your primary weapon (carbine), but don’t make that decision lightly. Ideally, you should try an immediate action tap-rack to clear the malfunction first — maybe even try it twice. Don’t build the bad habit of switching to your pistol if you don’t absolutely have to.
Above: Don’t wait until your gun is empty to reload. Keep it topped off at all times, even if that means dropping a mag with a few rounds left.
Closing Thoughts
The Gamut Resolutions pistol and carbine class was unrelentingly challenging, and served as a stark reminder that surviving a real gunfight requires an extremely high level of practice and proficiency. As Keller explained, if you’re able to pull off a drill with a target full of center-mass hits, you’re not pushing yourself hard enough — go faster, do it with your support side, or do it one-handed. Then, get to the point where you can do it cold every time. This practice builds confidence, and confidence wins fights — Keller says, “You must know you’re the most badass motherf*cker out there.”
Keller is based in Florida but offers classes throughout the United States. He also created The Gamut Challenge, a two-day event consisting of 16 different shooting scenarios plus over 20 miles of running or rucking. Check gamutresolutions.com for upcoming dates and locations.
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