Water Purification: Minimum Boiling Time and Other Methods

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If you've ever read about water purification on internet forums or social media, it's likely that you encountered at least one person who asked, “how long should water be boiled before it's considered safe?” This is a common question, and one that's prudent to ask — after all, you wouldn't want to take any chances of consuming bacteria or protozoa that will make you severely ill. Unfortunately, this question has also led to the spread of some misinformation on the topic. (Sign up for our free newsletter to stay caught up on more life saving info like this!)

Water over rocks

Above: This water may appear clear and clean, but it can contain invisible pathogens that will definitely ruin your day.

Safe Water Is Crucial

The importance of utilizing safe, clean water cannot be overstated, in both everyday and emergency scenarios. It's the linchpin that holds the continuum of health, hygiene, and survival together. Unsafe water can harbor harmful microorganisms and chemicals that can cause serious health problems. Diseases such as cholera, dysentery, and typhoid can spread through contaminated water. By using safe water, you significantly reduce the risk of contracting or spreading these diseases.

Clean water is crucial for the body’s absorption of nutrients. It aids in digestion and ensures that the nutrients from the food we eat are effectively absorbed by the body. In emergency situations, having access to safe water can be a lifesaver. It reduces your vulnerability to diseases at times when medical resources might be scarce. Staying hydrated is vital for maintaining energy levels and physical health, especially during emergencies where physical exertion and stress levels might be high.

Safe water is essential for hygiene practices like washing hands, cleaning, and cooking. It helps in preventing infections, maintaining a clean environment, and promoting overall sanitation. Utilizing safe water for cooking and cleaning food is crucial to prevent foodborne illnesses, which can be particularly hazardous in emergency scenarios.

Boiling Water

First of all, you may hear self-proclaimed “experts” on the internet say that water must be boiled for a minimum time of 5 minutes, 10 minutes, or even 20 minutes to ensure that all waterborne pathogens have been killed. This minimum boiling time constraint is a myth, and we'll explain why.

Scientific research tells us that waterborne pathogens (bacteria, protozoa, and viruses) are killed or inactivated at high temperatures. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention,  a rolling boil for at least 1 minute, will kill most bacteria, protozoa, and viruses.

Water purification warning sign

Most bacteria, protozoa and viruses will be killed in temperatures as low as 150°F, and we know that water boils* at 212°F (100°C). This means that by the time water has reached a rolling boil, it will be safe to drink.

Boiling Water at Higher Altitudes

*Now, there is one important clarification: the 212°F boiling point we mentioned is at sea level, and boiling temperature changes with altitude. The higher you are above sea level, the lower the boiling point of water will be. For example, at 10,000 feet, the boiling point drops to 193.6°F (89.8°C). At the summit of Mt. Everest, an immense 29,029 feet, the boiling point is 158°F (70°C). So, even at the highest point on earth, bringing water to a rolling boil will kill pathogens in less than 1 minute. For an added margin of safety, the CDC recommends boiling for 3 minutes at altitudes above 6,562 feet.

woman-on-top-of-a-mountain

Above: While altitude changes the boiling point of water, it's not significant enough to affect purification by...

Filtering Water

You might think that by going to your local camping supply store, and buying a filter would solve the need for having to boil water. But you could be purchasing a misleading product if you aren't aware of the nuances involved. To make sure you're getting the right filter for the job, you need to be aware of what the filter rating actually means.

Water filters and purifiers are typically measured and rated to remove 99.X percent of viruses, bacteria, or protozoan cysts. Each digit in this percentage represents a power of 10, also called a “log” (short for logarithm). For example, a filter rated to remove 99.99 percent of bacteria would be rated at a “4-log bacteria reduction.”

If your water had exactly 1,000,000 microbes in it, a 4-log reduction would mean only 100 of those microbes would be left in the water after treatment — 999,900 microbes would be removed. A 6-log or 99.9999-percent reduction would leave only 1 microbe in the water. 

If all of that was confusing, we cover it more extensively in our water filter buyers guide. But the long story short is: not all filters are created equally, and it pays to do your due diligence before relying on one for safe drinking water. Check out the video below to learn more about how water filters work, and what to look for on a label.

Disinfecting Water

Water disinfection is a crucial skill, especially in emergency situations where access to clean water may be compromised. It's a basic yet critical aspect of survival and preparedness. Here are several methods to purify water, making it safe for consumption:

  • Chemical disinfectants like iodine or chlorine tablets are portable and effective against many pathogens. They're a good choice for a bug-out bag or other portable emergency kit. The downside is they may leave an unpleasant taste, and they aren't effective against some cysts like Cryptosporidium.

  • Portable UV light purifiers are also available. They're effective against a wide range of microorganisms, including those resistant to chlorine. The drawback is they require batteries and may not work well in cloudy or turbid water.

https://youtu.be/ourrdz2RYaM?si=hdoeEn_AeHNf7R2t

  • Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor, which leaves behind contaminants. Distillation can remove bacteria, viruses, protozoa, and chemicals. It's more energy-intensive and might not be the most practical choice in every scenario.

FAQ

  • Q: How long does water have to boil to become sterile?
    A:     1 Minute if you're below 6,562 ft (2,000m), 3 minutes if you're above 6,562f
  • Q: Does boiling water for 10 minutes sterilize it?
    A:  Yes, but you shouldn't have to boil it for longer than 3 minutes.
  • Q: Will boiling water for 30 minutes achieve sterilization?
    A: Yes, but this is excessive unless you are trying to distill water.
  • Q: What is the quickest way to sterilize water?
    A: In terms of speed, using properly rated filter is probably going to be the fastest, followed by boiling, with chemical treatments and distillation being the slowest.
  • Q: How long should I boil water in the microwave to sterilize it?
    A: The same boiling rule (1 minute below 6,562ft, 3 minutes above) applies to the microwave, however, this can be potentially dangerous. Microwaves can heat water to boiling temperature without appearing to boil. Leaving the water in the microwave for too long can cause it to become superheated and explode violently into steam. It is much safer, and more accurate to boil water by other means so you can safely observe how long the water is boiling.
  • Q: Does boiling water kill bacteria?
    A: Yes. Boiling water will kill bacteria, protozoa, and viruses.
  • Q: Does boiling water make it safe to drink?
    A: Potentially yes. Although boiling water will kill biological agents, it will not remove chemical contaminants or radiation. Boiling does not remove dissolved organic matter, the stuff that makes natural water sources like lakes and rivers appear amber or brown in color, and can make the taste seem different than cleaner water sources.

Final Thoughts

Anyway, don't just take our word for it — listen to the scientists. Here's a direct quote from an article titled “Water Disinfection for International and Wilderness Travelers” from the Oxford Journal of Clinical Infectious Diseases:

“Because enteric pathogens are killed within seconds by boiling water and are killed rapidly at temperatures >60°C [or >140°F], the traditional advice to boil water for 10 min to ensure potability is excessive. Because the time required to heat water from a temperature of 55°C [or 131°F] to a boil works toward disinfection, any water that is brought to a boil should be adequately disinfected. Boiling water for 1 min or keeping water covered and then allowing it to cool slowly after boiling can add an extra margin of safety. The boiling point decreases with increasing altitude, but this is not significant when compared with the time required to achieve thermal death at these temperatures.”

Boiling water purification bacteria virus pathogen 2

So, here's the bottom line: Water does not need to be boiled for a minimum of 5, 10, or 20 minutes in order to be considered safe to drink. By the time it reaches a rolling boil, it can be considered safe, regardless of your altitude. (Note: This assumes that no harmful chemicals or heavy metals, such as pesticides or lead, are present. To remove those contaminants, you'll need a water filter/purifier.) However, you may continue to boil for 1 to 3 additional minutes, or combine the methods discussed above for an extra margin of safety — if you've got a few minutes to spare, it won't hurt, but shouldn't be considered mandatory.

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Grayside Hunter: Urban Tracking in the Concrete Jungle

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Tracking is a skill that's often applied to wilderness locations. Hunters use it to follow wild game, search and rescue personnel use it to find lost hikers, and law enforcement personnel use it to track fugitives or human traffickers in remote areas. In previous issues, we wrote about tracking and counter-tracking lessons learned from Greenside Training classes in the forests of northern Michigan and the Arizona desert. Although these wilderness-oriented skills are important, we can't overlook the fact that more than 85% of Americans live in urban or suburban areas. So how does tracking translate to the concrete jungle? This is the question that led Freddy Osuna, former USMC Scout Sniper and founder of Greenside Training, to develop his Grayside Hunter course.

Above: Rain can be helpful or harmful to trackers, depending on the situation. Soft mud makes footprints more pronounced in rural areas, but can wash them away in an urban setting.

Greenside Training Grayside Hunter Course

Osuna recommends students take one of his wilderness tracking courses before moving on to the Grayside Hunter Urban Tracking curriculum. Although it's not considered a “Level 2” class, it builds on many elements of wilderness tracking, and it's undeniable that urban tracking is more challenging (as we would soon learn). As Osuna puts it, “Highly evasive targets exist in highly evasive terrain.” A huge 14-point buck in the forest and a hardened career criminal in the city are both “the professors of their domain.” They've developed a heightened awareness of their surroundings, and they won't stick around for long if something feels out of place. This is the challenge you're up against if you're attempting to track either one without being noticed.

Above: Osuna carries a few tools to make tracks clearer, such as a powerful multi-colored LED light and a green Z-Bolt laser. The latter item was designed to help explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) techs spot tripwires, but he uses it to identify breaks in vegetation.

The course began with a refresher on tracking fundamentals in a rural setting, namely the Sonoran Desert outside Tucson, Arizona. In the wilderness, your target may leave behind spoor (the Dutch word for tracks) in track traps such as patches of mud and soft dirt on trails.

Above: In wilderness settings, disturbances in soil and vegetation are relatively easy to identify for an experienced tracker. These malleable substrates are rarer in urban areas.

For urban areas full of hard concrete and asphalt, these track traps are less common but more significant. For example, a target might cut a corner and leave a footprint in grass near the sidewalk, cross a muddy median, or step into an oil patch left behind by a vehicle, indicating their direction of travel. Pay attention to other disturbances in the natural scenery — just as bird calls can alert us to a target in the forest, dogs barking or nosy neighbors peering over their fences can alert us to targets in the city. Security camera footage may also be obtainable if your social engineering skills are sufficient to convince the camera owner to give it up.

On day two of the Grayside Hunter class, we met in downtown Tucson for an urban tracking exercise. All of the students split up into small teams, since working together is especially valuable in the chaotic and challenging urban environment. We used cell phones and radios to stay in touch, and subdivided our teams into A and B units to cover more ground. Our goal was to track a fictitious criminal, alias Sevryn, who was affiliated with a local drug trafficking network. We knew this bearded mid-40s male would be meeting with contacts throughout the city, and we learned his first meeting was with a younger man in Nike combat boots. One team set off after Sevryn, and the other followed his contact, who we nicknamed Nike.

Although we were able to find a few of the distinctive Nike boot prints on muddy sidewalks and medians, and some transference of that mud onto a nearby lawn, drizzling rain and the nonstop activity of an urban environment soon caused us to lose the trail. We moved in a grid pattern, expanding out in every direction from last known boot print locations, but we couldn't find anything. This is the reality of urban tracking — you won't always be successful, especially when Mother Nature gets in the way.

Thankfully, a piece of intel came in from the other team, directing us to a multi-story parking garage. After surveilling a nearby intersection, we spotted Sevryn entering a restaurant to meet with a blonde woman. Carefully observing the scene through our binoculars, we could see he slid her a cell phone and paid for his drink with a credit card before leaving. The method of payment is potentially traceable by law enforcement, and it indicates he wasn't concerned enough about that fact to pay in cash. We took notes on what we saw and cross-checked it with other observers.

Above: An example of transference. This mud was cast off from a boot as its wearer cut across this lawn.

Lessons Learned

Unless you're a law enforcement officer, you'll probably never need to covertly follow a drug trafficker and his accomplices, but the awareness and observation skills derived from this Grayside Hunter tracking exercise are relevant to anyone who lives in a city. While searching for traces of our fictional bad guy, we noticed signs of real crime and drug activity in the area — broken glass on the ground from car burglaries, gang tags on bus stops, and scraps of aluminum foil coated in black tar heroin residue. If you live in or frequently visit a city, you may never notice these small details, but paying attention to them can help you discern potential threats and danger areas.

Above: Most people wouldn't give this litter a second glance. But a trained observer will recognize the clear signs of drug activity in this area, which should lead to a heightened sense of caution regarding theft and violent crime.

Grayside Hunter was a fun experience, and it exposed us to the challenges of tracking someone through a city. Unlike rural environments, where footprints, matted foliage, and broken twigs are relatively common, urban environments may only offer a single piece of spoor every few blocks. This is why it's so important to work as a team, because five sets of eyes are much better than one. If you're interested in trying your hand at urban tracking, check GreensideTraining.com for upcoming class dates.

Medicinal Herb Garden: Grow Your Own Backyard Pharmacy

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Medicine is one of the most substantial problems the family medic faces if a long-term disaster knocks them off the grid. Even with a decent stockpile accumulated over time, the commercially produced drugs will eventually be expended, leaving even the most skilled provider without some very important tools to help deal with injuries and illnesses. Planting your own medicinal herb garden is the best way to provide alternatives to modern medicines in austere settings. Until pharmaceuticals were produced in factories, people had to grow their own medicine. This practice was a natural part of our heritage and provided needed remedies for many medical issues. A community often had a person who served as an herbalist and supervised the cultivation and processing.

Garlic bulbs growing in a paper bag.

Above: Garlic has antibacterial and antiviral properties.

Growing your own medicinal garden is both rewarding and beneficial. The gardening learning curve can be steep, so don’t wait until the situation becomes critical to get started. Obtain some gardening supplies, assess weather and soil conditions, and figure out what medicinal plants might exist in your own backyard.

DISCLAIMER

This is a general overview and not a comprehensive guide to medicinal gardening. Seek professional medical advice and study potential side-effects carefully before attempting to treat any injury or illness with natural remedies.

Choosing Medicinal Herbs for Your Garden

The medicinal plants you select should match the climate as much as possible. For some, that means that the herbs must survive the winter; for others, the summer heat or dry periods. The Department of Agriculture publishes “Plant Hardiness” maps: These are divided into 10-degee Fahrenheit zones and serve as the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants will do well at a particular location.

Cayenne peppers harvested and displayed on a marble table.

Above: Cayenne pepper can be used in cooking or as a medicine.

Part of the decision-making process is whether to plant annuals or perennials. This may confuse the beginning medicinal gardener. Given that annual is defined in the dictionary as “occurring every year or once a year,” some plant them, expecting new plants every spring. Despite the dictionary entry, when applied to plants, “annual” means completing the entire life cycle in one growing season. Perennial herbs include lavender, mint, thyme, sage, and rosemary. Examples of annuals include basil, dill, and fennel.

Ensuring Success

Once you have identified the plants with medicinal benefits that match up with your zone (and your likely needs), select a well-drained, sunny area with healthy soil. Although some herbs grow well in shade, most plants need at least six to eight hours of full sun for proper growth and development. Potting is appropriate for medicinal plants that might need to be taken inside during a cold winter. Water should be provided on a regular basis to allow the soil to stay moist, but not muddy or waterlogged.

A bag of coconut coir being dumped into a bucket.

Above: Coconut coir can absorb 10 times its weight in water.

Soil in many areas must often be amended for the best results. For a well-draining soil, mix potting soil with perlite and peat moss or coconut coir. Perlite is a white granular material that’s lightweight, sterile, and easy to handle. It’s neither alkaline nor acidic. Perlite absorbs water, but it also improves drainage. Coconut coir is the material between the outer shell of the coconut and the inner shell. You might have seen it as the liner for many hanging flower baskets. It’s inexpensive, reusable, available in compressed bales, and holds up to 10 times its weight in water. It helps provide good aeration when mixed with water and native soil. Plus, like perlite, it’s pH neutral. Coconut coir also helps resist a number of insects and diseases. On top of your mix, place some mulch or pine straw to hold in moisture and reduce weeds.

Composting

Composting is an excellent way to enrich your soil. Compost improves the soil by helping it retain more moisture and allow for more air flow. It also provides nutrients for plant growth. Gardeners make compost with grass clippings, leaves, shredded paper, kitchen waste like uncooked vegetable and fruit peels, and other organic matter.

Sweet potatoes being cleaned off after harvesting.

Above: Root crops can be harvested with hoes or trowels.

You’ll need a large container with a lid; some newer commercial composters come in “tumblers” that allow you to periodically turn the compost for more oxygen. Then, put the compost materials in and cover with soil and/or herbivore manure (be aware that dog, cat, or pig poop has a higher chance of containing parasites). Cow manure has the most nutrients. Microbes slowly degrade the container contents into nutrient-rich compost.

Adding some red worms will speed up the process. The worms will eat the plant matter and poop “worm castings.” Worm castings are organic matter that contains a mixture of bacteria, enzymes, remnants of plant matter, and other substances. They help prevent the soil from becoming too acidic or too alkaline.

A bag of chamomile flowers with some of the flowers displayed on a bench.

Above: Chamomile flowers are used in teas as a sleep aid and to relieve muscle tension.

For organic pest and disease control, consider putting together a soapy mixture of one tablespoon of neem oil, one teaspoon of Dr. Bronner’s lavender, peppermint Castile soap, and perhaps a few drops of tea tree essential oil in about four to eight cups of water. The combination makes a great natural disease and pest control. As a preventative, spray foliage in the late afternoon every five to seven days or after a heavy rain. Shorter intervals are acceptable if current diseases or pests are being treated.

You may be able to grow warmer climate plants by protecting them from the cold with greenhouses or using row covers. This will expand the range of medicinal plants you may choose to grow either in pots or around your homestead.

Seeds and Cuttings

Now you can sow your seeds. Different plant seeds are placed at different depths of the soil. Usually, it’s better to plant too shallow than too deep. Some, like certain lettuces, aren’t buried at all. A good general strategy is to plant seeds at a depth which equals two to three times their width. A layer of mulch can help maintain even moisture levels in dry conditions. Make sure to read the seed packet for specifics.

Photo of a woman planting herbs in a flower pot.

Above: Herbs like rosemary are simple to plant and grow.

Some herbs like mint and comfrey rarely produce viable seed, so “cuttings” are another option. A cutting is a section of plant originating from stem, leaf, or root that’s capable of developing into a new plant. This strategy involves placing the section in water or some other growing medium until roots develop. You’ll need sharp scissors or a razor blade, a healthy mother plant, a soilless potting mix, some rooting hormone, and small (4 inch or so) containers. Soilless mixes like perlite, vermiculite, sand, and coconut coir are used because they have less microbes that inhibit root growth. Water can be used instead of a mix, although planting afterward seems less successful than with mixes.

Cuttings taken from new, green, non-woody stems make for easier rooting. Look for a stem with a bump somewhere near a leaf attachment. This is the area from which new roots will emerge. Use clean scissors or a razor blade dipped in alcohol and cut at a 45-degree angle just below the leaf attachment, sometimes called a “node.” The cutting should be a few inches long and contain a leaf or two plus the node. Although a leaf is necessary for photosynthesis, too many or a leaf that’s too large will take away energy from root creation. If the leaf is large, cut off a portion from the end.

Photo of a patio garden.

Above: Herbs do just fine in pots and containers.

Your chances of success might be higher with rooting hormone. Rooting hormone stimulates the formation of new roots. Dip the node into some water and then into the rooting hormone. Tap off excess; too much actually decreases the success rate. Use a stick to make a hole slightly wider than the cutting. This will prevent rooting hormone from being knocked off the plant. Firm the soil around the cutting to stabilize it.

Place the whole thing into a plastic bag. This keeps the humidity high and holds in heat. Air is important, however, so don’t seal the bag completely. Keep in a warm area with a little light, but full sunlight isn’t necessary until new leaves form. Watch for two to three weeks, discarding any failed rootings. After this, a gentle tug on the plant should show some resistance, a sign that rooting has occurred. At this point, you have a new living plant.

Photo of soil mix and flower pots.

Above: The right soil mix and tools lead to a successful herb garden.

Useful Herbs for the Garden

Here’s a list of medicinal plants you may consider growing, as well as their benefits and the most commonly used part of the plant:

  • Aloe Vera: The gel from the leaf is used to heal and soothe rashes, burns, and cuts.
  • Arnica: Flowers and rhizomes (underground stems) are utilized in very dilute concentrations in ointments or salves for joint and muscle pain.
  • Calendula: The flowers are used fresh or dried and made into teas, creams, and salves. Calendula may relieve intestinal cramps, minor burns, rashes, eye infections, and decrease the severity of some viral infections.
  • Cayenne Pepper: The pepper itself is used dried and powdered, infused in oil, or mixed in a salve or cream. Good externally for arthritic pain as a salve. Applying cayenne powder directly on a wound may help stop mild bleeding.

Photo of pre-grown herbs displayed on a store shelf.

Above: Different herbs fail or succeed depending on plant hardiness.

  • Chamomile: The flowers are used in teas, salves, and creams. The tea is known to be relaxing and is used to relieve muscle tension and cramps. It also helps with insomnia, calms an upset stomach, and may also reduce joint inflammation.
  • Echinacea: The flowers and roots are used to produce teas or incorporated into capsules. It is known to have immune stimulating effects and may help reduce allergies such as hay fever.
  • Elder: Tea or syrup made of the flowering tops are good for coughs, colds, flu, and reducing allergies.
  • Feverfew: The fresh or dried leaves and flowers are used to help treat or prevent migraine headaches and also reduce fevers. This herb may also help with arthritic conditions.
  • Garlic: The fresh cloves are used (crushed) to make a tea, tincture, syrup, or capsules. Garlic may help lower blood pressure, reduce cholesterol, thin the blood to help protect against blood clots, and lower blood sugar levels. It has antibacterial and antiviral properties, which makes it useful for treating both digestive and respiratory infections.
  • Ginger: The rhizomes are used to make a tea, essential oil, capsule, or tincture. Ginger is excellent for use in digestive disorders. It can help relieve both morning sickness and motion sickness.
  • Ginseng: The roots are used to make a tea, tincture, or incorporated into capsules. It is used to reduce the effects of physical and mental stress. It stimulates the immune system to help the body fight viruses and bacterial infections.

Photo of a variety of seed packets.

Above: Pick the herbs most likely to thrive in your area.

  • Goldenseal: The rhizomes are used to produce an eye wash for infections, as a mouthwash for swollen or infected gums, or as an external treatment for psoriasis.
  • Lavender: The fresh or dried flowers are used to produce a tea, tincture, infusion, or essential oil. It calms nervous conditions, relieves muscle or intestinal cramps, and loosens tight airways. Applied externally, it is an antiseptic for open wounds and mild burns. It relieves itching and inflammation, and can be used to relieve bug bites and rashes.
  • Lemon Balm: The fresh or dried aerial parts are used to produce a juice, tea, or salve. It can alleviate nervous conditions, abdominal cramps, and muscle aches.
  • Peppermint: The fresh or dried aerial parts are used to make a tea, capsules, and essential oil. The tea is helpful for intestinal spasms and may reduce gas, cramps, and diarrhea. As a diluted essential oil, it helps relieve headaches and migraines when a small amount is gently massaged into the temples.
  • Rosemary: The fresh or dried leaves are used to produce a tea, tincture, or essential oil. The tea or tincture can help reduce stress and relieve headaches. Applied as a diluted oil, it may relieve muscle or joint pain.
  • Sage: The fresh or dried leaves are used to make a tea or tincture. Fresh leaves are sometimes crushed and applied directly to the skin for the relief of stings and bug bites. The tea is good to relieve a sore throat, canker sores, or sore gums when used as a gargle.

Photo of aloe vera growing in a container.

Above: Burn remedy aloe vera is most easily propagated by separating out its “pups.”

  • Senna: The fresh or dried pods are used commonly in a tea to treat constipation.
  • St. John’s Wort: The fresh or dried flowering tops are used to make a tea, tincture, cream, or infused oil. Most commonly said to be a relaxant and helpful for depression, premenstrual syndrome, and menopausal symptoms.
  • Thyme: The fresh or dried aerial parts are used to produce a tea, tincture, syrup, and essential oil. The tea or syrup may be helpful for use in treating colds and flu.
  • Turmeric: The fresh or dried rhizome is used in a tea, tincture, poultice, or powder. It is said to have a strong anti-inflammatory action, and may help with asthma, arthritis, stomach cramps, and eczema. Externally, it is useful in treating fungal infections, psoriasis, and other itchy rashes.
  • Valerian: The roots and rhizomes are used to produce a tea, tincture, or powder. It has a sedative effect and is commonly used to reduce stress, induce relaxation, and help with insomnia.
  • Witch Hazel: An alcohol infusion of the bark is used as an astringent to reduce hemorrhoids. It can also stop itching from insect stings.
  • Yarrow: Fresh or dried aerial parts are used to make a tea, tincture, essential oil, or a poultice to heal wounds. Some claim that it reduces bleeding from wounds.

Harvesting

Each plant is different, and when to harvest even depends on the part of the plant involved. Flowers are harvested when they open but before they are pollinated. In general, flowers should be harvested on dry days before the intense heat of the sun removes the fragrance from the petals, but after the morning dew has dried.

Photo of a handful of perlite.

Above: Perlite improves soil aeration and drainage.

It’s preferable to take just the amount of plant material you’re ready to process for use or storage. Otherwise, rapid deterioration could occur and degrade the medicinal benefit of the herbs. Herbs can be preserved by air- or oven-drying, and then stored in a sterile dark glass jar with airtight lids. For the longest shelf life of about 12 months, make sure conditions are cool, dry, and dark. Vacuum sealing the jar helps.

Gardening Tools

Just like any off-grid activity, the right tools make life easier and increase your chances of success. Consider these items:

  • Shovels: Shovels have a long shaft and a concave, angled tip for scooping up material and breaking up soil.
  • Spades: Spades look similar to shovels but tend to have a shorter shaft and a flat, rectangular blade to slice through roots and into dirt.
  • Shears: Garden shears cut small branches, stems, and other plant growth.
  • Rakes: Rakes are tined instruments that clear leaves, weeds, and other garden waste, and help with sowing.
  • Hoes: Either long-handled or handheld, hoes help turn and clear soil, remove weeds, and harvest root crops.
  • Pitchforks: Two- to five-tined pitchforks help you lift and pitch garden materials like manure and hay.

Home gardening tools: overhead view of green gardening equipment isolated on white background. A pot with ivy plant complete the composition.

  • Trowels: Trowels look like tiny shovels and are handheld tools to help plant, transplant or dig.
  • Wheelbarrows: A cart with sloped sides and a single front wheel, wheelbarrows allow you to haul around significant amounts of soil, compost, and other garden materials. Other garden carts may have two or more wheels.
  • Hoses, nozzles, and hose reels: Hoses deliver water where it’s needed; reels allow you to neatly wind up and store your hose. Nozzles let you change pressure and shape of the spray.
  • Watering cans: Portable containers with a long spout that move small amounts of water.
  • Gardening gloves: Gloves are important to keep your hands protected and clean while working in the garden.

Multipurpose Plants

Many herbs bestow multiple benefits to the gardener. Take the herb known as thyme, a low-growing herb often used in cooking. In addition, it:

  • Acts as a ground cover to suppress weeds and keep the soil moist.
  • Produces flowers that attract pollinators.
  • Has edible leaves.
  • Is useful in teas for sore throats, colds, and flus.
  • Serves to naturally deter pests due to its aroma.bundle of raw fresh organic thyme on sackcloth

Of course, the strength of a medicinal herb depends on climate, soil conditions, and other factors. Like vintages of wine, each year may yield higher or lower quality of effect. In addition, many have risks if used in pregnancy or in those with certain medical conditions, especially those requiring blood-thinners.

There’s a lot more to putting together an effective medicinal garden when the medications run out. Diligently research the data on each herb and decide which will do well in your area and meet your medical needs. Don’t delay: The last thing you want is to go through the gardening learning curve after you’re thrown off the grid.

About the Author

Joe Alton, MD, is a physician, medical preparedness advocate, and New York Times bestselling author of The Survival Medicine Handbook: The Essential Guide for When Help Is Not On The Way, now in its 700-page 4th edition. He is also an outdoor enthusiast and member of The Wilderness Medical Society. His website at doomandbloom.net has over 1,300 articles, podcasts, and videos on medical preparedness as well as an entire line of quality medical kits designed by the author and packed in the United States.

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New: Armasight Ultimate Night Vision Kit

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Piecing together your first night vision setup can be a daunting task. You'll need a helmet, shroud, mount, the night vision system itself, and a way to carry and store the gear securely. You'll also need to source these items from reputable companies, understand the key specifications, and make sure they're all compatible with each other. Armasight has made the process much easier by introducing a new package called the Ultimate Night Vision Kit. This kit brings together a bunch of top-notch components from Armasight and other well-known companies such as Elbit, Team Wendy, Wilcox, and OTTE Gear.

Check out the video below for an overview of the Armasight Ultimate Night Vision Kit:

Ultimate Night Vision Kit Contents

This Ultimate Kit is like a ready-to-go pack for seeing in the dark, featuring your choice of a PVS-14 monocular, BNVD-40, or BNVD-51 goggles — all with Gen 3 white phosphor tubes from Elbit Systems. Various tube grades are available for those who want the clearest image and highest FOM rating possible. There's also a thermal hybrid option, which allows you to pair an Armasight Sidekick 320 or 640 thermal monocular alongside an MNVD-51 or PVS-14 night vision monocular.

Photo of Armasight night vision optics mounted to a Team Wendy helmet.

Each night vision kit comes with an Armasight Gray Team Wendy helmet, a special gray Armasight G95 Mount made by Wilcox Industries, a Watchman IR Illuminator to light things up, and a custom OTTE Gear helmet bag, also in the signature Armasight Gray.

Depending on the package you select, there are included accessories such as a Rayvn Rail + 2 PODs bridge for Sidekick thermal systems, a 30mm Ring Mount for NV systems, and a Battery Pack for BNVD-40 and 51 systems. All of these kits will be available from Armasight’s website as well as select dealers.

See Through the Dark

The main idea behind this bundle is to make it as simple as possible for anyone to get their hands on a ready-to-use, high-quality night vision setup. All kits are backed by a 3-year warranty from Armasight. Pricing ranges from $6,399 for a PVS-14 monocular kit to $9,999 for a BNVD-51 dual-tube kit.

Photo of Armasight's line of night vision optics in front of a Team Wendy helmet.

Whether you're interested in shooting, hiking, or simply stargazing after nightfall, this kit from Armasight is an appealing option. It cuts out the hassle of buying components separately, and ensures you get everything you need at the same time with a single warranty.

We've already spent some time testing the Armasight Ultimate Night Vision Kit, so keep an eye out for our full review in Issue 58 of OFFGRID — coming soon.

URL: armasight.com

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Durable Phone Cases: Armor for Your Phone

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We recently completed a top-down review of the ruggedized Juggernaut durable phone cases and mounting ecosystem, published in Issue 53. Shortly after that article was complete, Juggernaut announced they’d be releasing a new, expanded line of phone cases and mounts. Good news up front: Both cases and mounts are backward compatible. If you have a legacy mount, all the new cases will still fit in those mounts. Likewise, if you purchase one of their new-generation mounts, your existing phone case will fit into it without problems.

The outgoing IMPCT and SLEEV cases, pictured here, offered two levels of protection; the new ENDVR, ADVNTR, and OPRTR families provide three levels to choose from.

Above: The outgoing IMPCT and SLEEV cases, pictured here, offered two levels of protection; the new ENDVR, ADVNTR, and OPRTR families provide three levels to choose from.

Previously, there were two Juggernaut phone cases: the IMPCT and the SLEEV. The IMPCT was their “medium-to-hard” use case, with the SLEEV being up-armored even further for extra-rough handling, and optimization for Juggernaut’s line of power and data transfer cables. Their new line has expanded to include three case options, instead of two, to cover a wider range of use-cases.

Juggernaut Case Everyday ENDVR

At the more casual end of the spectrum is their ENDVR case. The ENDVR is a front-load “snap on” case. Simply press the phone down into the corners of the case until it stretches and snaps down over the body of your phone. This is how most commercial phone cases work, but that’s pretty much where the similarities end.

Juggernaut’s new ENDVR case is slim and lightweight enough for everyday carry but is still compatible with the company’s existing belt clips, vehicle mounts, and other attachments.

Above: Juggernaut’s new ENDVR case is slim and lightweight enough for everyday carry but is still compatible with the company’s existing belt clips, vehicle mounts, and other attachments.

Optimized for EDC and weekend warrior adventures, the ENDVR doesn’t feature a port sealing mechanism like its counterparts. It does, however, still lock into Juggernaut mounts. Whether you want a belt clip for your work pants, a PALS pack adapter for your weekend trail pack, or a vehicle mount for road trips, the ENDVR will still fit securely into any existing Juggernaut mounting interface — with one caveat. The ENDVR’s design is so sleek that you’ll need to go down one mount size.

The Juggernaut ADVNTR (left) and OPRTR (right) are top-loading designs with seals for the ports on the base of the phone. The OPRTR’s seal locks securely into place with two thumb screws.

Above: The Juggernaut ADVNTR (left) and OPRTR (right) are top-loading designs with seals for the ports on the base of the phone. The OPRTR’s seal locks securely into place with two thumb screws.

The sample phones used here are a Samsung Galaxy S22 and S22 Ultra. If I load the standard S22 into an ADVNTR or OPRTR case, it’ll need a medium-sized mount to ride in. But the same phone loaded into an ENDVR case, will use a small-sized mount. Fortunately, Juggernaut marks both their mounts and cases with size icons, and all of the new cases are explicitly labeled with the required mount size for that case. If you plan on switching your phone in and out of the different cases, using different case models for work and personal phones, or have family members or coworkers using different-sized cases than you, you’ll have to bear that in mind as you shop for corresponding mounts. But this difference only applies to the ENDVR.

Extreme ADVNTR and Tactical OPRTR

The larger ADVNTR and OPRTR cases are similar in form factor. Both are top-load cases, as opposed to snap on, with a hinged top cover. They both feature a port-sealing mechanism on the bottom. The ADVNTR seals with a pop-off rubber gasket, while the beefier OPRTR has a larger, buffered bottom plate that secures into the case with two screws. Either one can be completely removed from the rest of the case and stowed if not needed for daily use.

The Juggernaut Case ADVNTR offers more protection than the ENDVR, with a top-loading, slide-in design and removable rubber seal for the ports at the base of the phone.

Above: The Juggernaut Case ADVNTR offers more protection than the ENDVR, with a top-loading, slide-in design and removable rubber seal for the ports at the base of the phone.

The ADVNTR and Operator both feature more material built up around the edge of the screen, creating a deeper offset for the phone. This is good news if you’re prone to dropping your phone on its face, when that offset could save you from a cracked screen. Aside from that, the OPRTR appears to be an even-more-up-armored version of the ADVNTR, slightly taller with more material all around.

The OPRTR is Juggernaut’s professional-grade model, with a heavy-duty top latch, thicker material on all four corners, and compatibility with Juggernaut Quick Disconnect cables and charging cradles that screw into the case.

Above: The OPRTR is Juggernaut’s professional-grade model, with a heavy-duty top latch, thicker material on all four corners, and compatibility with Juggernaut Quick Disconnect cables and charging cradles that screw into the case.

Our sample S22 did require more effort to load into the OPRTR than the ADVNTR, which indicates the use of additional shock-absorbing foam on the interior of the case. But make no mistake, both of these cases are fit for duty with law enforcement or military units. Also, the ADVNTR and OPRTR use the same size mounts — in our case, they both used medium mounts for the S22 and XL mounts for the S22 Ultra.

Design Improvements

We were big fans of the previous-gen IMPCT Juggernaut phone cases, with our editorial staff making extensive use of them in the field, and the new lines offer some distinct improvements. In addition to scalability of protection level, all three of the new case models make more extensive use of texturing and rubberized grip material around the edges of the case. We did notice that, on the older cases, as increased wear smoothed out the untextured plastic edges, our phones became a little more prone to slippage and drops.

The Armband Mount is made from stretchy Lycra with a topo-pattern grip material on the inside to reduce slipping.

Above: The Armband Mount is made from stretchy Lycra with a topo-pattern grip material on the inside to reduce slipping.

Not so with any of the new case models. There’s also the SHLD screen protector (not shown here) available. In addition to the additional protection for your screen, the SHLD is available in blue light blocking and privacy-protection variants.

There’s also more attention to detail in design aesthetic. The large military-style labels have been moved from the outside to the inside of the case, which also feature subtle artwork resembling topographical lines on a map. The inside of each case also features a cheeky one-liner or movie quote. You’ll only see it once, when you load your phone into the case, but they’re good for a quick chuckle, and the combination of colors and quotes adds a degree of uniqueness and collectability to an otherwise utilitarian product.

The Forearm Mount features a ratcheting BOA dial for micro adjustment, ensuring it fits the wearer securely. 

Above: The Forearm Mount features a ratcheting BOA dial for micro adjustment, ensuring it fits the wearer securely. 

Speaking of colors, there are some additional options in that realm as well. The ADVNTR and OPRTR are available in black, FDE, OD green, and Gunmetal Gray. The more urbanized ENDVR case is available in black, Stone Green, Gunmetal Gray, and a lighter limited-edition Tundra Gray. Pricing, like protection level, is scaled to the individual cases: $65 for the ENDVR, $80 for the ADVNTR, and $145 for the OPRTR. The SHLD screen protector is an additional $50 to $60 depending on model. Even maxing out the prices, you’re still looking at just over $200 to not only protect your smartphone to the level of literal battlefield use, but also capitalize on the wide array of mounting and carriage options that can be integrated into almost any imaginable use case — from belt clips and dashboard docks to skydiving harnesses and body armor.

At time of writing, these new case lines have only been released for Samsung Galaxy S22 phones, with limited availability for S22 Plus and Ultra models. Juggernaut has told us that iPhone 14 models are coming soon.

Source

URL: juggernautcase.com

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Back to School: Survival Skills Certification Key Takeaways

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In the majestic Santa Cruz Mountains, under the canopy of ancient redwoods at Redwood Glen Camp, we were able to attend Coyne Survival School Survival Skills Certification course. It was a healthy blend of wilderness survival basics intertwined with life saving first aid knowledge. Everyone who attended not only leveled up their survival game, but walked away with a Red Cross Wilderness First Aid certification. Here's how to blend know-how and practicality with a dash of intuition when you're stepping away from the comfort of civilization.

The Bow Drill

Ah, the bow drill—a primitive yet effective way to spark a fire when you're out in the wild. Picture this: you're surrounded by nature's grandeur, and all you've got are your wits and whatever you can find in your surroundings. No fancy lighters or waterproof matches here. The bow drill is all about mastering the art of friction to ignite that life-giving flame.

Adam Mayfield of Coyne Survival School uses a bow drill to start a fire.

Above: Instructor Adam Mayfield demonstrates how to produce a friction fire by using a bow drill.

To create fire with nothing but friction, you'll need the right materials. Components are the easy part: all that is required is a bow, a spindle, a fireboard, and a bearing block. For the bow, a slightly curved, sturdy stick about arm's length will do. The spindle should be a straight, dry stick, roughly thumb-thick and about as long as your hand. Your fireboard can be a flat piece of wood, and the bearing block can be another piece of wood or even a stone with a depression for the spindle to sit in. To turn the spindle, a cord is strung to the bow and wrapped around the center of the spindle. It's held in place between the fireboard and bearing block and rotated quickly by pushing and pulling the bow back and forth.

The instructor for Coyne Survival School Survival Skills Certification blows on an ember started with a bow drill.

Above: Once a glowing ember is placed in a tinder bundle, it must be supplied with a gentle flow of oxygen to ignite into flame.

The trickiest part is finding the materials for the spindle and fireboard, because as the two rub against each other, they create an ignitable charred powder. Some woods produce this powder better than others. Unfortunately, we had primarily redwood for materials, and the tannins in the wood make them naturally fire resistant. That didn't stop several of us from getting a fire going though, albeit with a little extra effort. Once enough charred powder is produced, the heat should eventually light into a smoldering ember. This ember is transferred gently to a tinder bundle and coaxed into a flame that can be used to get your campfire roaring.

Go Slow to Go Far

This isn't just a catchy phrase, it's a survival mantra. When you're out in the wild, especially in a group, the pace can make or break your journey. The slowest member sets the speed, and that's not just being polite—it's strategic. In survival situations, pushing too hard can lead to exhaustion, dehydration, or even injury. On top of that, nobody wants to deal with a sprained ankle miles away from the nearest trailhead due to trying to impress others in your group with how fast you can go.

Collection of ferro rods used by students at Coynes Survival Schools Survival Skills Certification course.

Above: Ferro rods come in in all shapes and sizes, but their function is the same; scrape and create sparks.

Weather is another factor that can turn on you like a dime. One minute it's sunny, and the next, you're caught in a downpour or a sudden temperature drop. In such conditions, rushing can lead to mistakes, and mistakes can be costly. For instance, in hot weather, moving too fast can lead to heat exhaustion or worse, heat stroke. In cold conditions, you risk hypothermia if you sweat too much and then get chilled.

Keep an eye on everyone's condition. Make regular stops to hydrate, snack, and check for signs of fatigue or discomfort. If someone's lagging, don't view it as a hindrance; see it as a natural speed limit that's keeping everyone safer. Adapt your pace, keep tabs on the weather, and remember: it's a marathon, not a sprint. You're out there to enjoy nature and make it back in one piece, not set a land-speed record.

Avoiding Exposure

When you're out in the wild, your body's internal thermostat is your best friend and worst enemy. Trouble occurs when your body can no longer thermoregulate its core temperature and succumbs to one of the two extremes: hypothermia and hyperthermia.

Adam and Amy demonstrate how to warm up to prevent hypothermia.

Above: Instructors Adam and Amy demonstrate the sitting position used to combat hypothermia.

Hypothermia is when your body loses heat faster than it can produce it, causing your core temperature to drop dangerously low. It's not just a winter thing, you can get hypothermia in relatively mild conditions if you're wet and exposed to wind. Signs to look out for include shivering, confusion, and a gradual loss of motor skills. If you or someone in your group starts showing these symptoms, it's time to act. Get to shelter, change into dry clothes, and warm up with warm drinks and high-energy foods.

Adam and Amy of Coyne Survival School demonstrate how to warm up to prevent hypothermia.

Above: Utilizing thermal blankets and leveraging the heat our bodies radiate naturally can help reverse the effects of hypothermia.

Hyperthermia, on the other hand, is the opposite problem. This happens when your body overheats, usually due to excessive physical exertion in hot conditions. Symptoms include heavy sweating followed by a lack of sweat, rapid pulse, and disorientation. Immediate steps include finding shade, hydrating with water and electrolytes, and cooling down the body by any means possible—for example, applying a wet cloth or even taking a dip in a stream if it's safe.

The key to managing both is to focus on the areas where your body's major veins (the vessels that carry blood back to the heart) come close to the surface of your skin: the neck, armpits, and groin. These are your body's natural thermostats. Cooling or warming these areas can help regulate your core temperature more efficiently. And if you're using hand warmers, wrap them in cloth to avoid contact burns.

Surviving the Scene

Survival isn't just about gear and know-how, it's also about mindset. Emergencies are rarely penciled into your calendar, and they usually happen due to a combination of factors like faulty gear, overestimating your skills, or just plain not knowing what you're doing. So, how do you “crack the code” to survive the scene?

First, self-assessment. Take a moment to assess your situation. Are you lost? Injured? Low on supplies? Knowing your status helps you prioritize your next steps. If you're lost, your first move might be to find a vantage point for better orientation. If you're injured, immediate first aid is your priority.

Adam and a student using an improvised litter technique to move a simulated patient from one point to another.

Above: Students at the Survival Skills Certification course use improvised litters to move patients with mock injuries from one point to another.

Next, adaptability. Nature is unpredictable, and your initial plans may not always pan out. Maybe the trail is blocked, or perhaps a sudden storm rolls in. Being able to adapt to changing conditions is crucial. This could mean setting up an impromptu shelter or finding an alternative route.

Resourcefulness is another key. Use what you have, but also use what you find. A broken backpack strap could be repurposed as a tourniquet, or a lens from your sunglasses could be used to start a fire.

Lastly, breathing. It might sound trivial, but controlled breathing can help reduce stress, override the amygdala—the part of your brain that governs emotional responses like fear and panic—and improve decision-making.

Sending the Right Signals

If you find yourself in a situation where you need to be rescued, effective signaling is crucial. The universal distress signal is a series of three of anything—three whistle blasts, three fires, three rock piles, and so on. But to really draw a searchers attention, using a series of the large contrasting triangles could be a real game changer.

Students at Coyne Survival School build a signal triangle to attract searchers.

Above: A series of three large triangles help attract the attention of both air and ground searchers to your location.

Why triangles? Because they're an uncommon shape in nature and easily catch the eye. Create three large triangles on the ground using materials that contrast with the natural surroundings. Think dark rocks on a sandy beach or logs on a snowy field. Make them big, at least several feet across, and space them out so they're easily visible from the air or a distance. Things like brightly colored flagging tape or strips of reflective emergency shelter material can be used to enhance the visual attractiveness of these types of signals.

If you have a mirror or any reflective surface, use it to catch the sun and aim the reflection toward searchers. The glint can be seen for miles and is another effective way to signal for help.

Adam Mayfield demonstrating the use of a signal mirror at Coyne Survival Schools Survival Certification Course.

Above: Once you find the reflected light from your signal mirror, using your fingers as a sight can help you aim where the light is being directed.

And don't forget about sound signals. Three loud, short blasts on a whistle can carry over long distances, depending on surrounding vegetation and topography, and are a universally recognized distress signal. In some places, three blasts could be mistaken for bird calls, and if you think you are competing with the local wildlife, one long continuous blast will definitely stand out to searchers. If you don't have a whistle, banging rocks or sticks together can also work.

Hydration

Hydration is more than just guzzling down water like there's no tomorrow. In fact, overhydration can lead to a condition called hyponatremia, where your body's sodium levels get dangerously low. So, how do you strike the right balance?

Firstly, quality over quantity. The water you consume should be clean and free from contaminants. Always carry a reliable water filter that has been independently tested and proven to remove bacteria and parasites. Be advised though, many off-the-shelf water filters will not eliminate viruses such as hepatitis A. If you don't have a filter, boiling water is the next best option, and is preferable if you're worried about viruses. Try to source your H2O from moving water, and look for places where the water is being agitated. Fast-moving water won't be free of waterborne pathogens, but it'll be a little less risky than scooping up stagnant water. This is because protozoa clump together, and the agitation of water flowing over rocks or logs can break those clumps up and could possibly reduce the volume of harmful microbes you have to filter or consume.

Instructor Amy filling water from a swift moving stream.

Above: Instructor Amy shows us a preferred location to collect water from a moving stream.

Electrolytes are extremely important for healthy body function. These are minerals like sodium, potassium, and magnesium that help regulate your body's fluid balance, and are responsible for your neurons communicating with each other. Consider adding an electrolyte tablet to your water every third liter, or munch on some electrolyte-rich foods like bananas or nuts.

Pacing is crucial. Don't just chug water when you're feeling parched; sip it consistently throughout your journey. This helps maintain a steady level of hydration and reduces the risk of both dehydration and overhydration.

Monitor Your Output. The color of your urine is a good indicator of your hydration level. Aim for a light yellow color; dark yellow or brown indicates dehydration, while completely clear could mean you're overhydrated.

Shelter: Debris A-Frame

When it comes to survival shelters, the Debris A-Frame is a classic. It's relatively easy to build and provides good insulation, making it a solid choice for both warm and cold climates.

First, location is key. Look for a spot that's flat and free from water runoff. Avoid areas near dead trees or large limbs—known as “widow-makers”—that could fall and cause injury.

Adam and Amy constructing an A-frame debris shelter.

Above: After creating a “mattress” of debris from the forest floor, the A-Frame and spine is constructed directly over the top.

Materials are important, and you want to choose pieces that won't break or crumble because of rot or insect occupation. Start by creating the “A” of the A-frame with branches that will cross at roughly collar bone height. You'll need a long, sturdy ridgepole for the “spine” of your A-frame. Lean smaller sticks against it to form the “ribs,” and then pile leaves, needles and twigs from the ground to create insulation. The thicker the debris, the better the insulation. Packing the insulation tight and thick enough to prevent you from seeing light from the inside of the shelter could indicate that it has good water resistance from precipitation. Don't forget about the ground. Even with a solid roof over your head, you can lose a lot of body heat through the ground. Lay down a thick layer of leaves or pine needles to serve as a natural mattress.

Students help pack insulation along the walls of an A-frame debris shelter.

Above: Debris is collected, compressed, and stacked along the ribs of the shelter, effectively creating insulated walls.

Consider digging a small trench about 18 inches away from the entrance of your shelter. This can serve as a fire pit, providing both warmth and a cooking area. Just make sure it's well-ventilated and far enough from the shelter to prevent accidental fires. Having a small entrance to conserve heat is also a great shelter upgrade to consider. You can use additional debris, a piece of clothing, or even a makeshift door made from branches to cover the opening when you're inside.

Instructors at Coyne Survival Schools Survival Skills Certification course get comfortable in a partial constructed A-frame debris shelter.

Above: Ideally, there shouldn't be too much space between your body, and the walls of the shelter.

Wilderness First Aid

When you're out in the wild, you're the first responder. There's no 911 to call, no ambulance coming to your rescue. You've got to rely on your skills, your gear, and your judgment to stabilize injuries, mitigate exposure, and initiate extrication if needed.

Instructor Adam Mayfield performing a casualty assessment at Coyne Survival Schools Survival Skills Certificaiton.

Above: Using both hands during a symmetrical patient assessment will help the assessor determine if something is wrong with either side of the body.

If you have the ability to do so, document every detail. Not only will the information be incredibly useful when the patient reaches the next level of care, but it can also protect you from liability. If you're dealing with an injury or illness, jot down the symptoms, the time they started, and any actions you've taken. This is where the SOAP acronym comes in handy:

  • Subjective: What is the patient feeling? Are they in pain, dizzy, nauseous? This is the patient's account of their condition.
  • Objective: These are your measurable observations. Is there swelling, a cut, or a rash? Are they breathing heavily or showing signs of dehydration? What is their heart rate?
  • Assessment: Based on the subjective and objective information, what's your diagnosis? Is it a sprain, heat exhaustion, or something more serious?
  • Plan: What are you going to do about it? This could range from applying a bandage or splint to deciding that immediate evacuation is necessary. When in doubt, splint!

Students creating an improvised leg splint.

Above: Supplies are limited during a wilderness emergency, and you must find a way to improvise care with what you have, and what you can find from your surroundings.

The foundation of a first aid kit should start with enough gauze, sports tape and ace bandages to handle the amount of people in your group. It can be built out from their depending on every individual's needs with things like medication or epi-pens.

Before you dive into treatment, assess the situation. Is it safe to approach? Are there immediate dangers like fire, falling rocks, or aggressive animals? Check the patient's airway, breathing, circulation, deformities, and environment (ABCDE) to manage the most immediate needs.

Adam Mayfield using a water bottle to to rinse a wound clean.

Above: The cap of a water bottle can be perforated to create an improvised wound irrigation device.

Once you've stabilized the immediate situation, you need to decide on your next steps. Can the injured person be safely moved? Do you need to set up a temporary shelter and wait for rescue? Or is it a situation where you need to signal for emergency evacuation? Remember, in wilderness first aid, you're not just treating the injury, you're managing the scene. Your actions should aim to stabilize the patient while also considering the logistics of getting them to more advanced medical care.

Summary

There are many dangers one may face when venturing out into the wilderness, but these are not so different from the dangers faced when venturing out to go to work, shopping or anywhere other than the safety of your home. Fortunately, by simply learning a few skills, these dangers can be mitigated, or even eliminated entirely. Attending classes like these are useful no matter what your skill level is. From novice to expert, we can all benefit by practicing new skills and refreshing old ones. Coyne Survival School is located in California, and learning what their courses have to offer could be the difference between life or death the next time you find yourself far from modern amenities.

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One Track Mind: Craig Caudill’s Tracking Fundamentals

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In my preparedness journey, I’m at a point where I have enough “stuff” and want to ensure that I have enough skills. As a prospective member of my county search-and-rescue (SAR) team and a budding hunter, one skill that I always wanted to learn was tracking. Sure, as a Boy Scout as a kid I learned some absolute basics, such as print identification for species of animals where I grew up, but I never got much further into it than that. While “read a book” is a valid path to prime the pump with many new skills, some things are better to learn in a class setting. So, when I saw that Fieldcraft Survival had not only added a tracking class to its inventory, but had scheduled one near me in Burnet, Texas, I jumped at the chance to get started. I signed up for Craig Caudill's Tracking Fundamentals course in the Fieldcraft Survival headquarters store in Heber City, Utah, while on the way home from a family road trip.

Photo of the sign for the Reveille Peak Ranch.

Above: The Reveille Peak Ranch has a semi-outdoor classroom area where we initially met. It was nice to see a flag up to start the day.

Fieldcraft is a well-known brand with a wide variety of classes. This was my first time taking a class from them, however, so I was interested to see if it would live up to what I’d heard. I wasn’t disappointed.

The instructor for the class was none other than Craig Caudill, founder of The Nature Reliance School, who had been tapped by FCS to provide this content. Craig has written four books on wilderness survival topics and teaches tracking, among other things, through his school directly as well. So, I loaded up my day-in-the-sticks kit and drove out to Reveille Peak Ranch to start my journey towards becoming a tracker.

Getting Started

The class size was modest — about 10 people. Some people had taken several Fieldcraft Survival classes before; for others, this was their first. A few attendees were prior military service, others have always been civilians. To start out, Craig asked what we all hoped to get out of the class in order to tailor the approach, which I appreciated.

Photo of a footprint in the dust being evaluated as part of Craig Caudill's Tracking Fundamentals class.

Above: The print has been identified and lines have been staked out to help determine key metrics about the track.

To be expected, a lot of people were there driven by their hunting passion. That was part of my purpose, but really tracking people to increase my skill set for SAR was my main driver. Luckily for me, much of the focus would be on man-tracking at first. This is because as people, it would be easier for us to make informed guesses about people tracks. It also doesn’t hurt that, as humans, we could create new human tracks rather than hoping to find animal tracks that may or may not be present.

Science, Not Art

Growing up, when I would think about tracking, I’d picture frontiersmen or Native Americans slinking through the forest in their buckskins, hot on the trail of game or maybe an enemy war party. Even modern media portrayals create similar depictions — Netflix’s Sheriff Longmire calling in his friend Henry Standing Bear, “the best tracker I know,” to help track down a poacher in the woods. One could be forgiven for thinking to be a great tracker you need natural talent or maybe some magic sixth sense.

Photo of students measuring the distance between steps in a spoor pit during Craig Caudill's Tracking Fundamentals class.

Above: Step is the distance between left and right feet. Stride is the distance from one left print to another. Stride is affected by height and changes with speed.

In fact, after introducing himself, Craig opened with a brief story of Daniel Boone, tracking a Native American war party who had kidnapped a girl, following them more than 50 miles over a course of days. It took Boone over 10 years to get all the skills and knowledge that enabled him to pull this off.

Contrary to the common perception, tracking is a science, not an art. While there’s no doubt that some people have a natural talent, just like anything else, it is in fact a skill that can be learned by anyone willing to put in the work. And like any science or technical discipline, there’s jargon. Some of the key jargon for tracking include:

  • Tracks are indicators left on the ground, such as footprints.
  • Sign are all other indicators, which are not necessarily on the ground.
  • Spoor is a South African (Afrikaans) word for a collection of sign/tracks.
  • Cutting for sign is methodically looking for sign.
  • Quarry is the person or animal being pursued.
  • Direction of Travel is (self-evidently) the direction the quarry is headed.
  • Gait is the rate of movement of the quarry.

After receiving some printouts and dealing with a few more administrative items, we headed out to the field to get started.

Sun Track You

The first bit of wisdom that Craig gave us in the field was to keep, to the best of your ability, the sun between yourself and the track. The shadow will give the best contrast, and for this reason the morning and evening are the best times to read tracks. Midday is the worst. The point was illustrated with a flashlight to show how the tracks become more visible or wash out depending on the angle and intensity of the light.

Craig Caudill using a flashlight to demonstrate how the angle of overhead light, such as the sun, affects the contrast of a footprint.

Above: Craig Caudill using a flashlight to provide contrast to a footprint in the sand.

Measure Before You Analyze

Tracking is a science of deduction — you must observe physical artifacts in order to draw a conclusion. As Craig put it in class, you must make observations before interpretations. Your goal is to learn to identify certain measurable indicators, which provide the data necessary to figure out things like:

  • Number of subjects
  • Direction of travel
  • Speed of travel
  • Time the quarry came through relative to some other events

Data needed to support these conclusions include:

  • Shape of footprint(s)
  • Distinct shoe treads, toe spread, etc.
  • Pitch of observed footfalls relative to a center line
  • Trail width

For instance, in order to deduce speed, one must know the average step and stride lengths for the type of quarry, such as a human being. By measuring step and stride, as well as the trail width, you can start to determine whether someone is walking or running. As speed increases, step and stride will increase but trail width will also decrease, as well as foot pitch.

Photo of broken vegetation left behind in the wake of something moving through it.

Above: Other sign include broken plants like this, or anything else that stands out as being obviously disturbed relative to the environment. Smell, color, and dryness are some of the factors that can help determine whether such sign is fresh or not.

To illustrate this, the class helped set up a “spoor pit” in the sand, and we ran several drills, involving class participation, to take measurements of tracks and then start to make interpretations. Nothing was a trick, though some things were tricky. However, the goal was to get about 70 percent right on any given scenario, with the mantra “70 percent right and move on it” drilled into us. That is to say, to the active tracker looking for, say, a fugitive, being 70 percent right and closing the time-distance gap between yourself and the subject is more important than doing a 100-percent accurate reconstruction of events that don’t necessarily matter.

Make it Human (or Not)

Depending on the terrain where you’re tracking, you may not have nice sand or mud and tracks won’t be clearly visible in the form of footprints. You’ll be looking at disturbances in leaf litter or grass, for instance, and it may not be immediately apparent what has made the trail you’re on.

Humans are the only animal fully bipedal. Being bipedal, we’re also one of the least well-balanced animals and our walk is more like a controlled fall. As such, the width of a human track is wider than that of any other animal. From dogs to hogs to members of the deer family, all animals have fairly narrow track width. Knowing that can be key to staying on a human track versus an animal.

Of course, spoor isn’t all tracks. You have to look off the ground and trees and bushes for air sign. The type of foliage needs to be taken into consideration depending on what you’re tracking. For instance, people don’t generally walk through thorny underbrush on purpose. If you see a track heading into such brush, it was likely made by an animal, not a human. If you’re starting from a last known location of someone who disappeared at night, however, he or she may not have seen the brush and just kept pushing through it.

Photo of students analyzing footprints in a spoor pit during Craig Caudill's Tracking Fundamentals class.

Above: Trail width can help determine whether a track is human or not when you don’t have visible prints. It can also be helpful in determining whether a subject is running or walking when you do have prints.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Like athletics or shooting, if you want to get good at tracking you have to practice. In class, we were introduced to a training technique to “take home” with us called the Ten Step Drill. It’s possible to do it by yourself, but it’s preferable to work with a partner.

To start out, one partner looks away while the other takes 10 steps out from the starting point and drops a marker at each foot fall. The tracking partner then inspects the marked footfalls and notes what sign can be seen. The partners then switch roles and repeat.

As you get better, you then move on to dropping fewer markers, then add steps. You can work in modifications to this while walking your dog, rucking, or other activities, by paying attention to your own footfalls, your dog’s, or your partner’s.

The goal is to be able to identify tracks and sign, such as the way grasses bend or break, leaves crinkle, etc., when stepped on in environments where footprints will not be clearly visible. The more you do it, the quicker you’ll be able to identify trails in the field.

Photo of students performing the 10 step drill during Craig Caudill's Tracking Fundamentals class.

Above: In the Ten Step Drill, one partner walks out and marks his steps. The second partner takes note of what he can observe at those marked points in order to learn to identify tracks when clear footprints aren’t visible due to ground cover.

Tracking with Teams

A good portion of the day was spent running tracking drills as teams, with one group running the track and the other acting as the “rabbits.” This portion introduces unit-level tactics for man tracking specifically, but also provides the introduction for “lost spoor” tactics to reacquire a trail when the tracker loses it. While some of the tactics introduced can be done by a solo tracker, such as a hunter, many really require additional bodies to be successful.

A squad-size tracking unit may include:

  • The tracker himself
  • The team leader
  • The comms guy
  • Two flankers
  • Rear security (though this was also handled by the comms guy in our scenarios)

The drills were run repeatedly, with teams changing up sides, and team members switching roles within the team each rotation. In my team’s first rotation as the tracking unit, I took the role of tracker. While I did lose the trail about halfway, this did give a good opportunity to run the reacquisition drills with the team, so I think I got more out of losing the trail than if I’d managed to stay on.

Summing it Up

Coming out of the class, I can say that I definitely feel more aware of what to look for out in the wild, or even just on my rucks near the house with my dog. I learned a lot, and frankly, I want to learn more. Tracking is an excellent addition to the skill set, whether you want to increase your chances of putting food on the table or help your community in some way. I’d definitely suggest taking one of Craig’s classes, whether through Fieldcraft Survival or his own Nature Reliance School, as a way to get started or to just get better.

Interview with Craig Caudill

Profile photo of Craig Caudill.

A couple days after the tracking class, I was able to connect with Craig on Zoom for an interview to get to know him a little better, and get his thoughts on topics related to the class, survival skills, and tracking in general. This interview is available exclusively on our website here.

Sources

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Mil Spec Overland: Comforts of an RV on an LMTV

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Mil-spec is a term that’s often used by marketing copy writers to imply extreme toughness, but those who served in the military understand there’s another side to that term. While it’s true that Mil-spec products are thoroughly tested and held to precise standards, they’re also built to meet (not necessarily exceed) those standards while staying under a tightly controlled budget. More importantly, Mil-spec equipment is made to be used and maintained within a military supply chain. For civilian owners who don’t have access to specially trained service techs and warehouses full of spare parts, that can pose a significant challenge. However, there is a work around for those interested it acquiring a mil spec overland vehicle.

Rear view of the mil spec overland LMTV.

Above: The rear of the Pangea-LT features a mounting point for a full-size spare wheel (not currently installed) as well as a trailer hitch John uses to attach a carrier for his dirt bike.

What’s an LMTV?

The Family of Medium Tactical Vehicles (FMTV) is a series of U.S. Military vehicles loosely based on the 12M18 military truck originally built by Steyr-Daimler-Puch in Austria (a branch of the same Steyr that developed the AUG rifle). The FMTV includes more than a dozen variants designed to carry anything from troops and cargo to cranes, mobile command centers, and HIMARS rocket launchers. Most variants use a 5-ton, 6×6 chassis known as the MTV, but a few were developed on the 2.5-ton, 4×4 Light MTV chassis. With a base curb weight of roughly 23,000 pounds, the LMTV is only “light” in a comparative sense.

Photo of the front bumper of the mil spec overland LMTV.

Above: In addition to the headlights recessed into the bumper, this truck has been upgraded with nine auxiliary LightForce LED lights — both visible and infrared.

This particular M1078 LMTV was built by BAE Systems, one of three contractors who manufactured the FMTV for the government. It features all the standard underpinnings: a Caterpillar C7 7.2-liter turbodiesel engine, Allison seven-speed transmission, integral single-speed transfer case, Meritor axles, and 47-inch off-road tires with a central inflation system. Technically, the LMTV is all-wheel drive, since its four wheels are powered with a 30/70 front-to-rear torque split at all times. A secondary off-road mode can be selected to split power 50/50 and enable the transmission’s low first gear for more technical terrain.

Photo of the tire being used on the mil spec overland LMTV.

Above: Each aluminum beadlock wheel features a central tire inflation system that allows tire pressures to be adjusted on the fly. In the case of a minor puncture, the system can maintain pressure until the tire can be replaced.

Pangea-LT Conversion

Although many LMTVs make their way onto auction sites as military surplus, this build started life as a brand-new chassis with zero miles on the odometer. It was purchased from BAE Systems by Global Expedition Vehicles (GXV), who installed a custom 17-foot-long, lifting-roof RV cabin. The resulting 26-foot-long vehicle is called the GXV Pangea-LT and cost approximately $450,000. The drivetrain is mostly unmodified, aside from a tune that boosts engine output from 275 horsepower to 350 and new final drive gearing that increases top speed from 58 miles per hour to a more reasonable 75.

The owner of this Pangea-LT prefers to remain anonymous, so we’ll call him John. John purchased the truck in 2018, after cross-shopping EarthRoamers and realizing he wanted a chassis that was more rugged and off-road capable than a commercial Ford F-550. The LMTV certainly fit that requirement, and he also appreciated the maneuverability of its cab-over-engine configuration. The massive tires provide plenty of clearance and grip for expeditions off the beaten path, and there’s more than enough space for all his hunting, fishing, and backpacking gear.

Photo of the side profile view of the LMTV.

Above: Hydraulic lifters take only 20 seconds to raise the roof on the 17-foot GXV cabin.

Accessing the cabin is as simple as parking the truck and pressing a button to lift the hydraulic roof — the whole process takes only 20 seconds. The primary entry point is its passenger-side door, which features electric steps, but there’s also a small pass-through hatch that allows direct access from the cab. Inside, you’ll find a full-size bed, a two-person dining area that converts into a second bed, and a wet bath with shower and toilet. Appliances include almost everything you’d expect at home: a stainless two-drawer fridge/freezer, induction cooktop, microwave, and an LED TV. It has an air conditioner for warm days and a heater for cold nights; screened double-pane glass windows and a skylight let in fresh air.

Photo of the steps and side door access to the mil spec overland LMTV.

Above: Electric steps drop down to allow entry into the two-piece cabin door.

In the pass-through storage compartment at the rear, you’ll find the systems that keep the truck off-grid capable. A Mastervolt marine-grade electrical system keeps the 1,600-amp-hour batteries charged from an array of 300-watt solar panels on the roof. In rare cases where solar isn’t sufficient, a small diesel generator can be used to recharge the batteries, but John says he has only had to use it a handful of times.

Over the years, John has added a few upgrades to the LMTV. The front shocks were replaced with King remote-reservoir units for a smoother ride on washboard roads, and the original steel wheels and Michelin tires (which weigh 400 pounds each) were swapped for lighter MRAP aluminum wheels clad in Goodyear tires. The front bumper is outfitted with a heavy-duty winch and auxiliary lights from LightForce — both visible white and infrared for driving under night vision.

Photo of the electronics set up in the LMTV.

Above: A view of the onboard battery and electronic components.

Bigger Truck, Bigger Problems

Remember how we mentioned the challenges of owning a Mil-spec vehicle outside the military supply chain? John will be the first to tell you those challenges are very real. Due to its sheer size and weight, his LMTV averages around 6 to 7 miles per gallon. Even a simple oil change takes 7 gallons of oil, and leaks should be expected. Swapping a tire requires a heavy-duty jack and power tools to overcome the 475 lb-ft lug nut torque. John says tire changes are frequent, since the only tires available are aging military surplus. In five years of ownership, he has gone through three Michelins and two Goodyears. Unlike the single-battery 12-volt system in regular cars, the LMTV uses a 24-volt electrical system with four batteries, and John says parasitic drain is a fact of life for this vehicle. If you expect the engine to start after more than a few days, you’ll need to cut off power when you park.

Photo of the inside of the cab in the mil spec overland LMTV.

Above: The inside of the mil spec LMTV cab.

All of those issues fall under what most people would call basic maintenance. For any serious repairs, you’d better have a lot of patience and deep pockets. Since the Caterpillar and Allison drivetrain isn’t uncommon, most diesel truck shops can be convinced to work on the LMTV, but John says they charge a premium for this unusual platform — “expect them to turn up prices on everything by 50 percent.” Some parts, such as those for the cab and axles, may only be available through surplus auctions. And even though some people would expect a Mil-spec truck to be reliable, this one hasn’t been. John says the brakes started dragging while the truck was in motion, leading to a hefty repair bill. Driving on a heavily rutted trail caused the rear shock mounts to snap, so he had a fabricator build better mounts. Most recently, the turbo blew on a cross-country road trip.

Photo of the kitchen inside the LMTV.

If you manage to get stuck in an LMTV, recovery is another challenge. Most ordinary trucks won’t be able to budge it with a tow strap, it’ll shatter plastic traction boards, and it’ll snap a Hi-Lift jack like a twig. John relies on the front winch, solid steel traction boards, and a set of Kevlar-reinforced air lifting bags when he takes the truck off-road.

Photo of the bathroom stall inside the mil spec overland LMTV.

Closing Thoughts

Despite all the challenges, John has enjoyed many adventures behind the wheel of his Pangea-LT. He frequently takes it on camping trips in Yellowstone National Park, goes fishing deep in the North Fork area of Montana, and heads out for shorter weekend trips closer to home. If he could do it all over again, he says he’d look harder at a Dodge or Ford chassis with a warranty. Even though those trucks don’t have as much off-road capability as an LMTV, they’d be substantially easier to repair and maintain.

Builder: 2012 Global Expedition Vehicles

Chassis: 2.5-ton 4×4 BAE LMTV Cargo (M1078)

Engine: CAT C7 7.2L six-cylinder turbo-diesel tuned to 350 hp

Transmission: Allison 3700 seven-speed automatic with single-speed transfer case, 3.07 final drive

Suspension: King remote-reservoir front shocks, custom-fabricated rear shock mounts

Wheels & Tires: 20-inch aluminum MRAP wheels, 47-inch Goodyear MV/T tires with Central Tire Inflation System (CTIS)

Camper: 17-foot GXV Lifting-Roof Cabin with pass-through rear storage compartment

Electronics: Mastervolt marine-grade electrical system with 1,600Ah battery capacity and six 300-watt solar panels, diesel backup generator

Interior Features: Full-size bed, two-person dining area, shower, cassette toilet, stainless steel sink, fridge/freezer, microwave, induction cooktop, LCD TV, heater, and A/C

URL: globalxvehicles.com

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Vugrek’s Cell Phone Gun: A Glimpse into Clandestine Firearms

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Here's something that looks like it came straight out of spy movie—a cell phone gun designed by Mirko Vugrek. This isn't your average James Bond gadget; it's a real piece of hardware that's been seized by law enforcement. The video we're discussing is a looks into this fascinating and intriguing invention. So, why should you care? Because understanding the evolution of clandestine firearms can help us stay prepared and vigilant.

Main Points

The video, hosted by Ian McCollum, takes us to the Croatian Police Museum where this unique firearm is displayed. At first glance, it looks like an old-school cell phone, but don't let that fool you. Hidden within are four .22 rimfire barrels, each with its own firing pin. The phone's buttons serve as triggers, allowing for four shots. This device started appearing around 2007-2008 and led investigators straight back to the Vugrek family in Croatia.

Historical Background

Mirko Vugrek isn't new to the world of firearms. He initially developed the Agram 2000, a submachine gun. The Vugrek family had real talent as designers; Mirko's son Ivan even became a wind turbine designer after serving time. However, the family's path took a darker turn, leading them to create these concealed weapons. It's a story of what could have been, had circumstances been different.

Final Thoughts

The Vugrek cell phone gun is a stark reminder of the ingenuity that can be applied for nefarious purposes. It's a well-engineered piece of equipment that serves as a cautionary tale. The Vugrek family had the talent to contribute positively to the world of firearms design but chose a different path. Understanding such inventions is crucial for our collective safety and preparedness. Intrigued? You should be. Go ahead and watch the full video at Forgotten Weapons to get all the details. And while you're at it, don't forget to subscribe to our free newsletter for more eye-opening insights into the world of emergency survival and preparedness.

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Crafting the Ideal Wilderness Saw: A Guide From Expert Joe Price

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The significance of a dependable saw in a survival situation cannot be overstated. This article delves into an instructional video by outdoor skills instructor Joe Price, who provides a step-by-step guide on crafting the ideal wilderness saw. This skill is not merely a DIY endeavor but a crucial addition to any survival toolkit. Check out the video here:

Key Points

The video commences with Joe Price highlighting the essential tools for the project: cordage, a quality belt knife, and a 12-inch bow saw blade. He offers an in-depth discussion on the types of blades—dry wood and green wood blades—each suited for specific tasks.

The core of the video focuses on the construction process. Alder wood serves as the material of choice for the saw, which consists of two upright arms and a cross arm. One of the unique aspects of this design is the square notch, a feature that ensures the saw's stability and sets it apart from other designs.

Why Make a Saw?

The mechanics of a saw are rooted in the design of its teeth, commonly referred to as pegs. These pegs are engineered to slice through wood fibers efficiently. In the case of dry wood blades, the pegs are uniform, while green wood blades feature alternating pegs and “raker teeth.” The latter aids in removing the wood that has been cut, making the process more streamlined. This engineering underscores the the importance of knowing what your tools are capable of. Saws are incredibly useful for a multitude of outdoor endeavors, and knowing how to whip one up with minimal materials is an great skill to learn. It also beats lugging around a chainsaw.

Conclusion

The instructional video by Joe Price serves as an invaluable resource for those keen on enhancing their survival skills. From selecting the appropriate blade to mastering the art of crafting square notches, this bushcraft saw construction tutorial is an essential skill to acquire. The video even offers additional tips, such as creating a “smudge pot” to deter mosquitoes during the building process. For those interested in elevating their survival skills, watching the video is highly recommended. Subscribing to the channel will also provide access to a wealth of information on survival techniques and tips. You can find it here @inforestsandlands

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