Video: 25 Wild Edible Plants, Fruits, Nuts, & Seeds

Harvesting wild edible plants can save the day when modern agricultural practices fail. As we mentioned in our recent article about Primitive Technology's yam garden, crop cultivation is the most reliable and efficient means of collecting edible fruits and veggies in a survival situation. However, that doesn't mean that you should disregard foraging — if you know where to look and the season is right, it's possible to gather a huge selection of tasty and nutritious wild edibles. These can supplement your shelf-stable food stockpiles, garden produce, and hunted meat.

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Wild Edible Plant Basics

There are a few key considerations when searching for wild edibles. First and foremost: is it actually edible? There are many toxic plants and convincing lookalikes that can make you dangerously ill, so positive identification is the name of the game. Always be extremely cautious when identifying wild edibles, and use the Universal Edibility Test if there's any uncertainty.

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Some items, such as these Rowan berries, must be cooked to break down naturally-occurring toxins.

Another factor is recalling which parts of a specific plant are edible, and how to process them. Many can be eaten whole and raw, while others need more preparation before you chow down.

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A new video from British outdoorsman AlfieAesthetics analyzes 25 different edible plants, flowers, fruits, nuts, and seeds. These include common varieties such as primroses, thistles, fireweed, dandelions, nettles, daisies, and more. Some are native to the UK, but many can be found around the world. But beyond just telling you what's edible, Alfie explains some of the ways to clean and prepare each plant — some are techniques you may not have thought of, such as roasting and grinding dandelion roots to make a coffee or tea substitute.

Check out the extremely helpful 35-minute video below:

For more survival and bushcraft videos from AlfieAesthetics, check out his YouTube channel.

Related Posts


Review: Fenix UC35 V2.0 1,000-Lumen Flashlight

A trustworthy flashlight is one of the cornerstones of every EDC gear loadout. Whether you're navigating through dark rooms in a power outage, illuminating a target with your weapon drawn, or simply trying to see what you're doing during some handyman work around the house, the uses for a reliable light source are endless. And as we've said many times before, that tiny LED on your cell phone might be better than nothing, but it's certainly not up to most critical low-light tasks.

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We carry a flashlight every day, generally in our left-hand pocket opposite the folding knife on our right. We've gone through quite a few over the years, and identified some that are great and others that are downright awful. When Fenix recently announced the release of its new UC35 V2.0, we jumped at the chance to find out where it falls on this spectrum. Read on for our thoughts after using and carrying this light.

Fenix UC35 V2.0 Updates

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As you might guess by the name, the UC35 V2.0 is an updated 2018 version of the older original UC35 (released in 2014). Although there are some similarities between these versions, the 2.0 is essentially a complete redesign from the ground-up, rather than an incremental revision. Fenix looked at the category this light occupies, and went back to the drawing board to improve it.

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For reference, here's a quick comparison between the original UC35 and the UC35 V2.0:

UC35 (2014)UC35 V2.0 (2018)
Max Output960 lumens1,000 lumens
Min Output14 lumens1 lumen
Max Runtime150 hours800 hours
Throw Distance656 feet873 feet
Battery TypeUSB-rechargeable 3,200 mAh 18650USB-rechargeable 3,500 mAh 18650
ControlsTail cap switch, silicone rubber mode buttonTail cap switch, stainless steel mode button
Dimensions5.9 inches long, 1 inch diameter5.5 inches long, 1 inch diameter
MSRP$120$120

So essentially, the V2.0 light is smaller, brighter, has a longer maximum runtime, and longer beam throw. This is a result of the new CREE XP-L HI V3 LED that replaced the older CREE XM-L2, as well as a slightly increased battery capacity. Pricing has remained the same, with an MSRP of $120 and street price around $90.

The 40-lumen difference in maximum output between these two lights may not seem substantial, but the high/medium/low modes are more evenly-spaced and the minimum output is down to 1 lumen. This makes for improved versatility when you're not using the light at full-blast.

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Another noteworthy change to the UC35 V2.0 is the modification to its side mode selector button. We'll talk more about the light's control scheme later in this review, but the side button on this light is a copper-colored stainless steel rather than squishy silicone rubber. It also features a new charge indicator LED that displays the charge level each time the flashlight is turned on.

The flashlight's anodized aluminum body appears similar to its predecessor, but now offers more aggressive knurling on the body and tail cap. This makes it easier to firmly grip the light.

Our Impressions of the UC35 V2.0

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Unboxing the UC35 V2.0 revealed the light and a few accessories. Fenix includes an 18650 lithium-ion battery, which can be charged via a micro-USB port hidden behind a rubber cover on the light's bezel. A belt holster and pocket lanyard are also included, though we don't see ourselves using these items.

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The light's controls will be familiar to anyone who has used a Fenix flashlight in the past. The tail cap switch turns the light on and off in either constant-on or momentary mode, and has a firm springy click action. While the light is on, the stainless side button cycles through five modes 1,000-lumen Turbo, 350-lumen High, 150-lumen Medium, 50-lumen Low, and 1-lumen Moonlight. Pressing and holding the mode selector for one second activates a full-power strobe mode.

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Having used previous Fenix lights with the older silicone rubber side button, we can say that the metal button is a substantial improvement. Activation is a positive click rather than a spongy push.

This two-button control scheme is more complex than single-switch designs by competitors, but it also makes it easy to change modes in situations where you might not have the dexterity to repeatedly tap a tail cap switch. When holding the light in a one-handed overhand grip with a thumb on the tail cap, the pinky finger can be used to press the mode selector. The light will maintain the last-selected mode between uses.

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The beam pattern consists of a dense central spotlight that's rated for a maximum effective distance of more than 850 feet, surrounded by a wide gradient halo of light. We found it to be reasonably versatile, but it definitely favors medium-range to long-range use. This is a light we'd grab for night hikes or other outdoor activities, but we'd prefer something more diffuse for close-range room clearing or map reading. Light color appears neutral verging on cool white — no complaints there.

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Like most rechargeable flashlights, the UC35 V2.0 has a charge indicator LED inside the mode button that displays red when it's charging and green when it's full. Normal charge time for an empty battery is about 3.5 hours. However, Fenix also programmed this LED as a “boot-up battery level indicator” so each time you turn on the light, you'll know how much charge remains. The indications are as follows:

  • Solid green – fully charged
  • Flashing green – sufficiently charged
  • Solid red – poor charge level (light output begins to gradually step down)
  • Flashing red – critical charge level (light restricted to Moonlight mode)

It's worth mentioning that this light can use a pair of CR123A batteries instead of the 18650, but these batteries can't be recharged and will not display battery life remaining.

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The aluminum body feels hefty and solid, and is long enough to use as an impact weapon if the situation calls for it. The body has plenty of texture for grip, but the lens sits pretty close to the edge of the bezel, so we'd be a little concerned about cracking it with a direct impact. However, the light is rated as impact-resistant for drops up to 1 meter and IPX-8 waterproof to 2-meter immersion.

The pocket clip is removable but is attached firmly enough that it won't pop off accidentally. Flat spots machined into the body make it easier to draw the light without shredding your pocket hem on the knurled surface.

Conclusions

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There's no question that the V2.0 is an improvement on its 2014 predecessor, considering its numerous upgrades and smaller size. With a street price under $100 and a rechargeable battery that'll save you money on replacements, its value also stacks up well against competitive brands. We're still not in love with the two-button control scheme, but this comes down to personal preference — it's still easy to use one-handed and functions reliably.

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Overall, the Fenix UC35 V2.0 is a strong performer, and one that has made it into our preferred EDC flashlight rotation. For more info, go to Fenixlight.com.

Pros:

  • Tight spotlight beam pattern offers long throw and a halo of soft light for peripheral vision outdoors
  • Battery indicator and rechargeability reduce anxiety about running out of light
  • Tail cap switch pressure feels just right, and is easy to activate in momentary mode
  • Textured aluminum body is impact-resistant, waterproof, and feels good in the hand

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Cons:

  • Sits rather high in the pocket with 1.5″ of tail cap protruding — a deep-carry clip would make it more discreet and comfortable to carry
  • A crenellated striking bezel would've been a welcome addition
  • Users who value simplicity may find the two-button controls less appealing than a single-button setup

Primitive Technology: Cultivating and Cooking Yams

One of the biggest turning points in human history was when our ancient ancestors transitioned from hunter-gatherers to sedentary farmers. This enabled them to generate a more-reliable food source, stockpile their crops to avoid starvation, and build permanent villages that would eventually become towns and cities. So, if you someday find yourself in a situation where obtaining food isn't as simple as making a trip to the grocery store, it's best to avoid reverting all the way back to hunting and gathering. You'll want to know how to grow your own food.

It may not look like much, but this half-eaten old yam can be the start of a garden.

It may not look like much, but this half-eaten old yam can be the start of a garden.

Gardening is obviously made easier by modern irrigation systems, fertilizer, and disease-resistant selectively-bred crops — but those aren't necessary. In a pinch, you can go back to basics, and simply plant something that can already be found wild in your surrounding environment. This is much simpler and more efficient than foraging every time you're hungry.

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In his latest video, the host of Primitive Technology shows how he planted, cultivated, and cooked some yams he found in the surrounding Australian jungle. Pesky wildlife such as wild pigs and turkeys are a problem in his area, so he builds a woven fence from vines to protect his crop. Soil, dead leaves, and water are added, and vertical poles give the green tendrils the means to reach the sunlight.

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The yam harvest was carefully dug from the ground using a stick, then buried under hot coals to roast. In the video description, he says, “The yam was eaten while steaming hot and tasted similar to a potato but with a crunchier texture near the outside much like bread crust… They are versatile in that they can be cooked into chips, roasted, boiled, mashed and made into a type of dough called “fufu” typically eaten with stews.” Check out the video below:


GeoGuessr: A Free Game to Hone Your Navigation Skills

Imagine for a moment that you're on a cross-country road trip with a friend. After many long hours on the highway, your friend offers to take the wheel and let you get some rest. You doze off in the passenger seat, but awake with a jolt to find yourself alone in the car on the side of a completely unfamiliar road. You have no idea how long you've been asleep, where your friend went, or where you are. The car appears to have a flat tire and there's no cell reception, so you'll have to set out on foot.

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This hypothetical scenario would test your ability to ascertain information from your surroundings, and use that information to navigate to safety. What does the terrain look like? Is the road a well-maintained highway or a rural backroad? Are there any identifiable signs or structures nearby? Is there evidence of cultivated land, crops, or livestock? What sort of pedestrian traffic and vehicles do you see, if any? All of these questions will help you establish where you are and, hopefully, where you need to go.

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GeoGuessr is a free browser-based online game that could also be referred to as Google Street View: The Game. It uses the massive database of existing street-level photographs, virtually drops you onto a random street somewhere on Earth (or any specific country, state, or city), and tasks you with guessing your location. You can pan, zoom, and move the camera in any direction to gather more information, but the goal is to mark your guess on the map as close as possible to your virtual location. The closer you get, the more points you receive. There's also a timed Challenge Mode where you can compete with other players.

GeoGuessr map navigation game Google Street View orienteering compass road 1

While this might seem like little more than a fun way to kill some time, it can actually help to improve your observation and navigation skills. GeoGuessr provides a compass, but the rest is up to you. Just like if you're lost in real life, you may need to travel down miles of empty road to find a highway marker, intersection, or even a building with signage that indicates where you are. You can also narrow it down based on other clues, such as passing vehicles (although license plates are blurred, so you can't determine the state you're in that way). The “World” version of the game amps up difficulty further, since the signs may all be in a language you can't read.

If you've got some down time and are interested in testing your land nav skills, you can play the game at GeoGuessr.com.


Review: Athos & Aerial Summer Apparel from 5.11 Tactical

If you've ever been to Arizona in the summer, you'll know it's not the most pleasant place to be outdoors during the day. In the Phoenix area, we've already reached highs in excess of 110°F, and summer doesn't officially begin until later this week. In another month or two, it'll probably hit 120°F here (if not even higher). So just like in the midwest during the dead of winter, choice of clothing is an important consideration if you're planning to venture outside.

5.11 Tactical has released an array of new summer apparel this year, and was kind enough to send us a shirt and some shorts to try out. We had several options to choose from, so we picked those that looked most hot-weather-friendly: the Athos shorts and Aerial button-down shirt. Read on for our thoughts on each after a few weeks of wearing them.

Athos Shorts

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Colors: Black, Stone (khaki), Lunar (grey), Raisin (brown)
Materials: 98% cotton, 2% elastane
Size Range: 28 to 44
MSRP: $45

The Athos shorts have a discreet look that resembles a pair of chinos, and a 10-inch inseam that comes to just above the knee. We like the asymmetrical cell phone pocket on the left thigh, which perfectly fits a plus-sized iPhone in a slim Otterbox Commuter case.

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Two normal front pockets feature stairstepped hems to comfortably accommodate knives, flashlights, and other clip-on EDC gear. Back pockets are pretty standard with button closures. The Athos also features 5.11 Tactical's MAG pockets at the 4:00 and 8:00 position — we liked these a lot on the 5.11 Defender Flex jeans we reviewed, and we appreciate them here as well. This brings the total pocket count to 7.

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We found the Athos shorts to be a great choice for everyday use or trips to the range. They don't have oversized cargo pockets or flashy stitching so they don't scream “tactical”, but they provide enough space for the gear you do need on a daily basis.

Aerial Button-Down Shirt

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Colors: Black, Lunar (grey), Eclipse (navy)
Materials: 100% polyester-dissolving yarn
Size Range: XS to 2XL
MSRP: $50

The Aerial shirt is amazingly breathable — closely examining its grid pattern reveals hundreds of tiny perforations throughout the fabric. If you hold this silky material up to a light source, these pinholes are clearly visible. The end result is a featherweight shirt that wicks away sweat and allows for constant ventilation. That's a godsend when stepping outside feels like walking into a giant oven.

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There's a single chest pocket and collar, but aside from these features there's little more of note. Eight snaps can be easily pulled apart with one hand to access a concealed weapon, but nothing about this shirt looks tactical, and we greatly appreciate that design. Many apparel manufacturers go overboard with hidden pockets, velcro, and other features we'd rarely (if ever) use, so it's nice to see 5.11 Tactical sticking to the basics.

Like the Athos shorts, the Aerial button-down is a solid choice for everyday wear, and one we see ourselves using frequently this summer.

For more info on 5.11's new summer apparel, check out 511Tactical.com.


Last Man Projects: Lessons Learned from a 26-Mile Hike

Editor's Note: The following article was written by contributor Brandon Barton for his Facebook page, Last Man Projects. We've shared the post in its entirety with permission. It includes some valuable lessons on the realities of walking long-distance in an emergency scenario.

On Memorial Day I posted a brief teaser about my 26-mile road hike down Route 66 with my Direct Action Dragon Egg pack and Goal Zero Nomad 13 solar panel. As promised, I wanted to spend a little time giving you all my impressions of the gear, as well as (and maybe more importantly) my two cents on the overly romanticized idea of bugging out on foot or walking home after the SHtF.

An Impulsive Trip

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First, I have to lay out a little backstory. I chose to do this hike at the spur of the moment. At about 09:00 I decided I didn't want to sit around the house all day, so I grabbed the loaded pack, filled the water bladder, threw in a few extra bottles, strapped the solar panel to the outside PALS webbing and took off.

I was already sort of worn down from an 8-mile hike Saturday and two heavy upper-body workouts plus a 3 mile run Sunday. I hadn't done a walk even close to this distance in about two years and didn't prep for it; no building up my endurance, no carb-loading, no rest beforehand. After all, no real emergency scenario is gonna give you time to prep your body for it. You either have the ability to do it live or not. It was as close to “oh shit I gotta go now” as you'd want. Sometimes it pays to be a little impulsive.

Gear Impressions: Goal Zero Nomad

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First off, the Goal Zero Nomad; I usually carry back up batteries that the panel feeds while I walk — this is the universally accepted and recommended way — but this time I wanted to see what would happen if I tried to directly charge my iPhone. Reason being, I know there are people out there that are trying to short-cut their preps. If you're one of these folks you're probably saying “but wait, I hooked up everything in my kitchen window and it showed my phone was charging!” Yep, and it does… sorta.

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If you're doing anything more than setting it in the sun and leaving it for hours you’re going to have problems. If you're moving, which is the point of bugging out, I found it to be a pain in the ass and basically ineffective. The planets almost literally have to align right or the panel doesn't get enough CONSISTENT charge to keep the phone going. That’s the point of storing that inconsistent charge into a battery that will discharge at a consistent rate.

An external battery pack, such as the Goal Zero Sherpa series, can deliver a more consistent charge from a solar panel.

An external battery pack, such as the Goal Zero Sherpa series, can deliver a more consistent charge from a solar panel.

How do I know the Nomad's direct charge is picky and inconsistent? Well I'm glad you asked… because of that helpful and irritating tone the iPhone makes when you plug it in. It chimed off and on incessantly every time the sun went behind a cloud, I went under branches, or turned so my shadow even slightly blocked the panel. I tried a few different things, and it didn't really matter how I positioned the panel on the bag either. Point is that solar panels are very particular, so prep accordingly.

Gear Impressions: Dragon Egg Pack

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I was pretty impressed for the most part with how the Dragon Egg performed over the course of the ruck. My pack weighed in at about 33 pounds and it carried the weight well. I had really sore trapezius muscles from lots of back work the day before and a sunburn I earned on Saturday. Still, the straps were wide, very well padded, and it never felt like they were putting unreasonable pressure on my muscles. The back board was supportive and the thick padding was comfortably ventilated even in the 94-degree heat. The sternum strap was very important to keeping the shoulder straps snugged up and in the right place. I wish I could’ve gotten it tighter or there was a second strap lower on the shoulder straps, but it wasn't a huge deal.

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I only had two real issues with the pack. The first is that the hip belt is basically worthless. It’s not padded and bears no weight, so I ended up not using it after about 4 miles. I know that on an intermediate to smaller pack that this isn't unusual, but I can't help but think the pack would've been even more comfortable had it had a padded hip belt. (That way I could've taken some weight off my sunburned shoulders every once in a while.)

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The second issue — and I know this SEEMS minor — is that I wish the pack had thumb loops built into the shoulder straps. Have you ever hiked long enough to have your hands swell and fingers turn to sausages? I noticed it too, but thanks to my awesome nurse-girlfriend I now know that’s called dependent edema. Its caused by the blood pooling in your hands from carrying your arms low and swinging them as you walk for miles and miles. Its uncomfortable and robs you of some fine motor skills. The way to keep it from happening is carry your hands up every so often, which is kinda awkward unless you have something like thumb loops to hook onto while you walk. Sure, you can hook your thumbs other places, but it’s not as comfortable over that kinda distance, which brings me to my last point…

The Reality of a Long Walk

Walking 26 miles sucks. Look, I get it. There’s a lot of great prepper fiction out there built around the protagonist getting stuck out and making that long, dangerous, and action-packed walk home. Franklin Horton‘s “Borrowed World” and “Locker Nine” series are my absolute favorites and there are countless more, some better than others. At least I know Franklin — he's an avid hiker and knows what it takes out of you to put miles like that under your heels.

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Unfortunately, many authors do not, and the vast majority of the prepper community doesn't either. Most folks will pack that bag… then OVER-pack it. It will either sit in the corner or closet, or at best get carried to a vehicle and back every day, but that’s about it. Those same “Hypothetical Preppers” will just assume that because the hero of their favorite book series did it, they can do it. I’ve heard it over and over first hand “Well, if the EMP hits I'll just grab my bag out of my truck and start home. I figure I can make 20 to 30 miles a day easy”. Sure you will man… sure you will.

Unless they engage in regular hiking, most people can't do a fraction of that if they are being honest with themselves. If they did get a jump on their trip and somehow managed to make 20 – 30 miles a day, I'm guessing they wouldn’t be going ANYWHERE for a few days after that while their body recovers. They never tend to mention that in most of the prepper fiction I've read. “Bill walked his ass off that first day, but because his muscles seized up overnight and his feet were totally shot, he laid around for the next three days trying to limber up and get feeling back in his blistered feet while his family fought off looters at home.”

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My point is this, you have to be walking fit. Even if you’re gym fit, or work fit, you can't count on that to get you home. It doesn't matter that you can put up 300 on the bench if you can't walk to the bench to do it. It doesn’t matter if you work “on your feet all day” because that still doesn’t equate to humping a pack miles on end. And it doesn't matter if you used to be able to do it a few years ago — all that matters is if you can do it NOW.

No matter how good your shoes and socks are, your feet are going to get torn up. Since you don't walk around with a pack most of the time your muscles will ache and be sore from being used in ways they’re not used to. You'll have greater chances of mechanical injury, overheating, dehydration, and you’ll burn more calories than you'd probably planned on. I lost 4 pounds from that 26 mile walk. Regardless if it was water weight or fat burned, that’s still my body’s resources I lost… in ONE day.

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The next day I was back in my gym and out running again, but I’m pretty fit and hike a lot of shorter distances. Still, it was really miserable and I’m pretty worn. Multiply that over several days to simulate a trip home and I can’t tell you how rough I’d be by the time I hobbled through my front door… or maybe if I’d have made it home at all. The constant fatigue could have caused me to make a stupid decision somewhere on the road and that would be it.

Conclusions

So get out there and hike with your packs. Feel what it’s like to walk with your favorite dystopian hero. Figure out where your preps are weak and fix the issues before you have to count on them. Prepping isn’t a hypothetical activity, it’s a full-contact sport.

For more prepper projects, survival tips, post-apocalyptic artwork, and more, be sure to follow Last Man Projects on Facebook. You can also check out Brandon's previous articles, Explaining the Prepper Philosophy and Survival Lessons from a Road Tramp.


Book Review: “100 Deadly Skills” by Clint Emerson

The Premise: As the name implies, 100 Deadly Skills is a primer written by former Navy SEAL Clint Emerson. There are, in fact, 100 separate tips, tricks, and survival hacks to help the reader prepare for any number of possible worst-case scenarios from natural disaster to criminal abduction. Each of these skills is based on the training or operational experience of a former Special Warfare Operator who also spent time working, in some capacity, with the National Security Agency.

The 411: The skills in the book are broken down into two-page panels. One side is a storyboard-like illustration, often with step-by-step comic book panels showing how the skill is to be executed. The opposite page gives written instructions, sometimes with background or operational context that gives relevance to the skill being taught. The skills are broken down into larger parts loosely based on a military Operations Order — Part I being Mission Prep and Part IX being Exfiltration and Escape. There’s also a foreword and final conclusion by the author, as well as the obligatory “don’t try this at home” warning, emphasizing the potential risks involved in attempting any of these tricks in real life.

The Verdict: The format of this book is an excellent way to present survival-style skills. Graphic illustrations are always helpful since many of us are primarily visual learners to begin with. Having both illustrations with captions and written instructions paired together aims to reduce the trial-and-error curve, and cut back the ever-frustrating “am I doing this right?” results that land somewhere between flawless success and total failure. For somebody new to these kinds of skills or unsure how much time and effort they’re ready to commit, 100 Deadly Skills gives a lot of just-enough overviews that’ll quickly prompt the more avid preppers and independence-minded among us to do further in-depth research. Both the larger parts and individual skill pages keep the information well organized and highly manageable for reading in bits and pieces over weeks or even months. This book is a great way to get your brain percolating about things that could save your life with about the same level of effort that you’d spend on anything else while sitting in the bathroom or on an airplane.

Having said that, the actual practicality of 100 Deadly Skills is somewhat suspect. Some of the skill panels make brief yet meaningful intro-level presentations for the completely uninitiated, like skills 002 and 003, Create an EDC Kit and Create a Vehicle Bolt Bag, respectively. But many of the skills are grossly oversimplified and, in some cases, border on an injustice to the amount of effort and training required to become proficient — as in skill 044, Pick a Lock, or skill 063, Win a Knife Fight. Others still are rather sensational in nature and will likely prove absolutely useless, even in a total-grid collapse. Our favorite examples of this particular folly are skill 026, Steal a Plane, and the aptly placed skill 007, Construct a Rectal Concealment.

Speaking of sensational in nature, 100 Deadly Skills feels heavily seeded with buzzwords and shock-value language. While it may be entertaining taken at face value, anybody serious about prepping, personal security, or simply training to be more self-sufficient might be as turned off by it as we were. The introduction refers to Special Operations veterans as “action heroes for modern times, one-part James Bond, the other Rambo.” The alumni of those units who we know, have worked with, and who contribute to our magazines would likely shy away from such a cavalier and self-approving description. But to give credence where it’s due, this is a stereotype that’s well-ingrained into mainstream media and pop-culture portrayals. So maybe it’s an effective attention-grabber to get this book into people’s hands and get them thinking. Emerson goes on further to refer to these same operators as Violent Nomads — “a nod,” he says, “to their disregard for international borders and their bias for swift, brutal action.” The Violent Nomad reference in particular is carried on and off throughout the book.

At the end of the day, 100 Deadly Skills is a mixed bag. There’s no denying that there are useful tidbits presented in a very accessible way that may inspire readers to dig deeper into an education on potentially life-saving skills, like 018, Hotel Safety And Security Awareness. But the inclusion of skills like 032, Make a Newspaper Nail Bat, and 085, Dispose of a Body, ensure that this book keeps one foot firmly planted in the survivalist novelty aisle.


Novel & Author
100 Deadly Skills: The SEAL Operative’s Guide to Eluding Pursuers, Evading Capture, and Surviving Any Dangerous Situation by Clint Emerson

Publisher: Touchstone
MSRP: $20
URL: www.simonandschuster.com
Pages: 272

Rating:
Thrive
>Survive
Die


OFFGRID Library of Recommended Books

More From Issue 26

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 27

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 25

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Debunked: Sucking Venom from a Snakebite

WARNING: This article is meant to be an overview and not a detailed guide on dealing with venomous snakebites. Professional medical treatment should always be sought before attempting any of these methods.

Your hike in a remote area seemed great until a searing pain hits your ankle. Instinctively, you jump back in surprise and glimpse a coiled snake with brown and tan markings. Burning pain begins to spread through your lower leg. With your pulse and fear rising, you realize that you’ve just been bitten by a venomous snake.

The Myth

Outdated survival manuals and old movies often illustrate the “cut and suck” practice of snakebite treatment. This medieval medical method involves cutting the flesh at the site of the bite, then sucking on the wound with your mouth or an extraction device. In the stressful aftermath of a real snakebite, we might decide to fall back on the pop culture practice, but this procedure is likely to increase the damage already done.

The Reality

Unless you know exactly where arteries and nerves are located in the area of the snakebite, you could sever tendons, nerves, or blood vessels. You could end up compounding a venomous bite with potentially severe bleeding.

Many medical authorities, including the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, agree that almost no venom will be removed by extraction and that extraction kits are essentially useless. One study suggested that less than one-thousandth of a percent of venom gets removed by extraction. Furthermore, the venom may be introduced directly into the bloodstream if you accidentally slice a blood vessel adjacent to a pocket of venom.

Many doctors and herpetologists have estimated that roughly one quarter to one third of the bites from venomous adult snakes are a “warning bite,” more commonly called a dry bite. This is an attack intended to repel a perceived threat, with little or no venom expended. Since adult snakes can control the amount of venom they inject, they don’t want to waste it on something that won’t fit into their mouth (like a human). You’ll usually know in less than one hour if the needle-like stab is the only sensation you feel or if more signs and symptoms follow.

The Alternatives

Take the following steps if you or someone in your group is bitten by a venomous snake:

  • Seek medical attention as soon as possible, if it’s available (dial 911 or local EMS).
  • Wash the bite with soap and water, or a disinfecting solution like iodine and water. Cover pit viper bites with a clean, dry dressing. For the bite of a coral snake, use an Ace bandage or an improvised wrap (like a strip of stretchy fabric) to create a compression dressing, starting above the bite and then covering it.
  • If EMS can reach you quickly, keep still and calm. This keeps your heart rate down and can slow down the spread of venom. If you have to move, walk as slowly as you can. And if help is inaccessible for the foreseeable future, lay down with the bite below the level of your heart and pray to God that it was a dry bite. If it wasn’t, you may be able to survive pit viper venom. Unfortunately, the paralytic effect of coral snake venom means that your chances aren’t good at all in austere conditions.

Know The Symptoms

rattlesnake on a rock

Envenomation is unpredictable, and the signs and symptoms can vary depending on the type of snake, the amount of venom, and your body’s reaction to it. Reactions can begin in minutes or be delayed for hours, and any venomous snakebite can cause dangerous neurotoxic complications and problems with blood clotting. The most common bites in the U.S. are from pit vipers (rattlesnakes, copperheads, and cottonmouths). Expect some or all of these signs in a victim:

  • From a pit viper, a pair of puncture marks in the skin or, very rarely, one mark (when a fang is deflected by some other obstruction, such as clothing).
  • Redness, swelling, and severe pain around the bite
  • Increased salivation, sweating, and a “coppery” or metallic taste in the victim’s mouth
  • Nausea and vomiting
  • Numbness
  • Difficulty breathing

Don’t try to catch or kill the snake. Take a picture of it if you can, from a safe distance. Or try to remember the color and pattern of the snake.

Never apply a tourniquet. Even with neurotoxic venom, don’t cut off the blood flow. Tourniquets hold the venom in one area, causing greater tissue damage after the fact. Avoid caffeine and alcohol. Applying ice to the bite won’t help.

Snakebite Stats

Of the 50,000 snakebite deaths that occur worldwide each year, the U.S. accounts for less than half a dozen of them, on average. Of the thousands of annual U.S. snakebites, one third occur when people are handling or otherwise taunting the animals. Many of these bites occur on the hand or forearm.

When people aren’t harassing venomous snakes, 85 percent of bites occur below the knee. At least one venomous snake species is found in every state, except for Alaska and Hawaii, although Hawaii residents experience attacks by non-native species, such as the Brown Tree Snake, which had inadvertently been introduced to their ecosystem. Most species and subspecies of venomous snakes in the United States are rattlesnakes.

For more on snakebite avoidance and treatment, refer to our article “Slithering Danger: How to Avoid and Survive a Snakebite” by wildlife trapper and dangerous animal rehabilitator Mike Searson.

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Review: Fast-Act Chemical Decontamination Ready Kit

In the current political environment, self reliance and disaster preparation have become a priority for many people. You don’t have to look very far to understand why. While most would say they have the basics of preparation covered: food, water, shelter, self defense, and so forth, the mere thought of having safety measures in place for a chemical exposure is daunting. Not only because of the vast possibilities of solid, liquid, or gaseous hazards, but also the potential cost of such preparations.

Fast-Act provides a kit that seems to have you covered, at least in general hazmat terms. At a list price of $190, their chemical decontamination kit isn’t beyond the budget for most people and covers a lot of ground in a small package. At first glance, it seems to have the critical pieces for initial decon from exposure to a chemical. Fast-Act claims to not only contain but to chemically break down and neutralize a wide variety of chemical compounds.

The Fast Act Chemical Decon Ready Kit includes masks, an absorbent “mitten,” two-pack of microfiber towels, and two bottles of sorbent powder.

The Fast Act Chemical Decon Ready Kit includes masks, an absorbent “mitten,” two-pack of microfiber towels, and two...

Given the compact size of the kit, there are limitations to the amount of product for which it can be used, but in all fairness, you don’t buy a kit like this to provide large-scale decontamination. The Chemical Decon Ready Kit contains enough components for you to execute gross decon and neutralize a small amount of product. The kit can be purchased pre-built, or the products within it can be purchased à la carte, but the decon-ready kit itself includes key pieces that you’ll want to provide a basic amount of chemical protection.

What’s Included

Masks: Three air purifying respirator masks are included in the kit and intended to provide a barrier against hazardous particulates as well as minimize noxious odors. Although the masks aren’t to be used as a replacement for legitimate gas masks, they boast “patented neutralization technology,” which, according to the website, has been evaluated against dangerous chemical warfare agents, including mustard gas (not that we’d recommend cleaning up a mustard gas spill with this — leave that to the pros). We found the masks to be lightweight and comfortable. They provide a good seal around the mouth and have a malleable nose clip for a custom contour over the bridge of your nose.

Decon Mitt: Inside a sealed, green foil pouch is a paper mitt that’s absorbent on one side, allowing you to quickly wipe product from yourself or some small equipment. A hook-and-loop strap around the base of the mitt permits you to secure it to your hand so it doesn’t slip off in your haste to remove the chemical or when the mitt catches on something. It’s a simple but effective design. No need for anything fancy here. You stick your hand in, cinch it tight around your wrist, and quickly wipe away the hazard. A single mitt doesn’t offer a whole lot of absorbency, so the four mitts that come with the kit provide more reasonable coverage for anything more than a minor exposure.

The green microfiber towel is used for quick absorption of a liquid product. Gloves would’ve been a smart addition, given the nature of this kit’s intended purpose. Here we’re wiping up bleach.

The green microfiber towel is used for quick absorption of a liquid product. Gloves would’ve been a smart addition,...

Microfiber Towel Set: The kit also comes with a set of two microfiber towels. It’s a conveniently packaged set to conduct gross decon, followed immediately by a more thorough decon. As with the rest of the kit, the towels aren’t really intended for anything other than a small area — personal use or small equipment. The two towels are different in purpose and easily distinguishable: one green and one black. The green towel is intended to be used first as an absorbent, followed by the black towel, which is coated in the proprietary Fast-Act sorbent powder that allows it to be used for surface decon and neutralization of a large variety of chemical residue. The convenience of the resealable pouch is especially handy when the towels have been used. Simply place them back in the pouch and reseal.

Powder: Two 50-gram bottles of Fast-Act sorbent powder are packaged together in a similar resealable packet as the towels. The powder is a proprietary blend of metal oxides that creates a large, porous surface area, which, based on a lot of testing found online, does a really good job doing exactly what the company claims: breakdown and neutralize. The powder is easily accessible and simple to use. Because the bottles are in a sealed pouch, once you rip it open, there are no pesky, frustrating seals or safety packaging to battle. Simply flip open the lid, aim, and squeeze.

Put it to the Test

To test the kit, we used the microfiber towels to see if they’d clean up and decontaminate an area with spilled chlorine bleach and then tested the sorbent powder to verify if it would neutralize home pesticide. First, though, we donned the mask to check for odor detection. It blocked the odor of the spilled bleach. To double-check the effectiveness, in a separate location, we opened a full gas can and were unable to detect any odors. The mask doesn’t carry a NIOSH certification, so it should only be used as protection against offensive odors or “nuisance particulates,” such as dust. I wore it throughout the remainder of the tests, and the seal remained intact.

We then poured chlorine bleach onto a flat concrete floor. The spill spread out to cover about 1 square foot. The resealable towel packet opened with ease and the black towel was nested in a tight roll beneath the green towel. As advertised, the green microfiber towel absorbed much of the small spill. Upon using the black towel, exercise caution when you deploy it or you and everything around you will be covered in powder. The black towel coated the spill area in powder and left no odor of chlorine. Both towels fit conveniently back into the pouch for disposal.

The black microfiber towel, coated in sorbent powder, follows the green towel to absorb and neutralize the chemical.

The black microfiber towel, coated in sorbent powder, follows the green towel to absorb and neutralize the chemical.

To test the sorbent powder bottles, we created a small spill of home pesticide (bifenthrin). In an effort to simulate a real incident, we hurriedly opened the foil bag and retrieved one of the powder squeeze bottles. We popped the top, pointed it at the spill, and squeezed until the puddle was covered. The spill was approximately 8 by 8 inches; it took about one-third of one bottle to cover, so the powder will blanket more area than you might think. Checking the pH prior to applying, it was acidic (yellow). Once the powder was applied, the pH showed to be neutral (orange). It performed, at least on pesticide, as promised.

Here we apply the powder to a small puddle of bifenthrin, a common pesticide.

Here we apply the powder to a small puddle of bifenthrin, a common pesticide.

Fast-Act claims this decon kit will work on a vast array of chemicals, but because of the required EPA certification, they cannot make any claims against “biological” hazards. Biological hazards include things like E. coli, salmonella, and clostridium botulinum — the nasty stuff that causes botulism. They do, though, tout that their products work on a broad spectrum of nasty chemical-pairing agents such as hydrogen deuteride, VX (nerve agent), as well as toxic industrial chemicals and materials, and have been certified by several independent laboratories.

The first pH paper, now yellow, shows the acidity of the pesticide. After applying the sorbent powder, the area was tested again and found to be orange, signifying neutral.

The first pH paper, now yellow, shows the acidity of the pesticide. After applying the sorbent powder, the area was...

Safety

The Fast-Act products are certified nontoxic and have been tested for safety by multiple outside agencies including the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventative Medicine. The sorbent powder isn’t harmful when it comes in contact with skin. However, just as any other time you’re dealing with a hazardous material, all available safety precautions should be taken. Depending on the chemical, skin and eye protection could be extremely important, so take whatever measures are necessary with the specific chemical you’re dealing with.

If it’s a spill of unknown origin, even with this kit, you should avoid touching it. Hazardous materials can be quietly lethal. While this chemical decon-ready kit provides a good deal of protection, it also may boost your confidence in a way that could be dangerous if you don’t apply a little common sense as well. If you follow the instructions and use appropriate precautions, this kit provides even a nonprofessional the ability to contain small amounts of a wide spectrum of chemicals. Don’t forget that after the use of this kit, disposal of any kind of hazardous materials should be done in accordance with your local city ordinances for hazmat disposal.

Conclusion

Entire emergency agencies are dedicated to hazardous materials mitigation, so creating a compact and effective kit for personal use is a bold endeavour. The Fast-Act Chemical Decon Ready Kit has done it, but with some limitations. A few simple additions could add to the overall safe use of the product, such as a pair of neoprene (or other chemical-resistant) gloves and a pair of safety glasses. A shelf life of about five years is somewhat limiting by many prepper’s standards, but isn’t out of the ordinary for decontamination agents.

The greatest benefit would be when there’s a chemical spill on a hard, solid surface. If a hazardous chemical comes in contact with your skin or clothing, it could potentially cause problems before you can get to your decon kit, and even then, the benefit would be limited. But given the scope of chemical threat readiness, Fast-Act has delivered a solid product. In the event of chemical exposure, they narrowed down to the bare essentials what might be needed while keeping the price tag reasonable given the potential for the exorbitant costs that could be incurred preparing for a hazmat incident. It’s an impressive kit that seems to be as inclusive as possible, while remaining condensed and portable.

Specifications

FAST-ACT Chemical Decontamination Ready Kit

Includes:

  • FAST-ACT Decon Mitt (4 Mitts)
  • FAST-ACT Sorbent Powder Bottle Set
  • FAST-ACT Microfiber Towel Set
  • FAST-ACT/VapourKlenz Face Masks (3)
  • User Manual and Product Information

Applications*

  • Unknown Chemical Release
  • Chemical Contamination
  • Smells/Vapors of Unknown Origin
  • Chemical Attack
  • Decontamination of Personal Equipment and Gear
  • Cleanup of a Chemical or Fuel Spill
  • Unknown Hazard Exposure

(*This information obtained from their website)

MSRP
$220

URL
fast-act.com

More From Issue 26

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 27

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 25

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.


Slithering Danger: How to Avoid and Survive a Snakebite

It’s summertime, and warmer temps mean people are enjoying the outdoors with greater frequency. So, RECOIL OFFGRID is here to provide you with some tips to keep from provoking the bite by one of nature’s oldest predators.

Whether you’re wandering through their habitat, or should they make their way into yours, it’s helpful to identify the venomous snakes and know how to treat a bite.

WARNING: This article is meant to be an overview and not a detailed guide on dealing with venomous snakebites. Professional medical treatment should always be sought before attempting any of these methods.

Snake Close Encounters

The majority of people bitten by snakes were either trying to handle a snake or inadvertently got too close. Encountering a snake should be dealt with in a manner similar to what you tell a child about finding an unattended firearm:

  • Stop
  • Don’t touch
  • Leave the area when safe (usually the snake will lose interest and move on)

If you’re gathering firewood in snake country and searching in areas where a snake could potentially be burrowed, use a tool or a stick to roll the log or branch away from you, lest a snake be beneath it.

Should you hear a rattlesnake’s telltale warning sound, remain as still as possible and try to determine the snake’s location. Their vision isn’t the best, but they detect thermal patterns in the air, and if they’re rattling, they’re warning you to stay away. Movement of any type toward the snake will be perceived as a threat, and the snake will defend itself. When it’s safe to move (for example, when the snake lowers its head or moves away) do so quickly and away from the snake, keeping in mind that they can strike a distance of one-and-a-half times their body length.

Most snakes you’ll encounter in the wild aren’t venomous, but even these guys can bite if provoked. If you know that the snake is non-venomous, treat the bite as you would treat a puncture wound. Clean the wound and treat it for infection. Soap and water, alcohol, even Listerine mouthwash will do the job. Non-venomous snakes are known to eat carrion and their mouths can carry bacteria and toxins that lead to disease if left untreated.

There are four general types of venomous snakes found in North America. With the exception of the coral snake, they’re all pit vipers, identified by their thickset bodies, wedge-shaped heads, and elliptical pupils. Copperheads and water moccasins are most commonly encountered in, or near water.

Coral Snake

Two subspecies: Eastern and Western

Range: Florida to North Carolina, Texas, Louisiana, Arkansas, and Oklahoma

Coral snakes are neither aggressive, nor prone to biting and account for less than 1 percent of the number of snakebites each year in the United States. Their fangs are relatively short, but any bite that penetrates skin should be treated as a medical emergency requiring immediate attention. Coral snakes have a powerful neurotoxin that paralyzes the breathing muscles. Coral snakes are more worm-shaped, thin, and have a distinctive color pattern of red, yellow, and black bands (in that order). They can often be confused with the similarly colored, but non-venomous milk snake or scarlet king snake.

Copperhead

Five subspecies: Southern, Broad-banded, Northern, Osage and Trans-Pecos

Range: Florida to Massachusetts and as far west as Texas

Copperheads aren’t typically aggressive, and bites are rarely fatal. The venom is hemotoxic and destroys red blood cells, disrupts blood clotting, and can cause generalized tissue or organ damage.

Water Moccasin or Cottonmouth

Three subspecies: Florida, Western, and Eastern

Range: Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, Texas, north to Oklahoma, Missouri, Illinois, and Indiana

Water Moccasins are extremely aggressive, and their bites contain powerful cytotoxic venom that destroys tissue. Bites are rarely fatal, but are painful and can cause gangrene rapidly. You may not lose your life to one of these snakes, but the writer knows of two people who each lost an arm as a result of a bite.

Rattlesnake

There are numerous species and subspecies of rattlesnake (between 95 and 100 by some sources), discussion of each type goes beyond the scope of this article.

Range: Canada to Argentina. Most are found in the American Southwest and Mexico.

Rattlesnake venom is hemotoxic. It destroys tissue, causes necrosis, and disrupts blood clotting. The tiger rattlesnake and some varieties of the Mojave rattlesnake have a neurotoxic venom component that can cause severe paralysis. Behavior varies across the different species with some being more aggressive than most.

If there’s any chance that the snake is venomous, the victim has difficulty breathing, or loses consciousness, call 911 if possible. People allergic to bee stings may be more sensitive to snake bites as well.

Constrictors

In the Southeastern United States, particularly in Florida, there have been outbreaks of pythons roaming the wild. These pythons are non-native species that have invaded the ecosystem and have no natural predators. Some grow to lengths of over 15 feet. While many have escaped from breeding facilities, the majority are former pets that irresponsible owners set free when they grew too large.

Should you find yourself face to face with one a constrictor, don’t panic. Attacks on adult humans are rare. A python will typically bite its prey and throw its coils around the victim in an attempt to strangle it.

Don’t try to pry the mouth from your body, instead go for the tail and either attack it directly (most of the snake’s nerves are located in the tail) or grab the tail and start unwrapping the coils from that end as the muscles in its body will be stronger toward the front.

While Waiting for Medical Help

Move the victim away from the snake and beyond striking distance. Have the victim keep the wound below the heart. Keep the victim calm and at rest, remaining as still as possible to keep venom from spreading.

Remove any jewelry from the area that was bitten because it will swell. If the leg or foot was bitten, remove shoes for the same reason as removing the jewelry. Cover the wound with a loose, sterile bandage.

Despite what you may have read in 1950s Boy Scout handbooks, never cut a bite wound, attempt to suck out venom, apply a tourniquet (or ice), or give the victim alcohol, caffeinated drinks, or any other medications. Snakebite suction kits are equally worthless in this regard. [See our article “Debunked: Sucking Venom from a Snakebite” from RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 26 for more on this topic.]

Photograph or at the very least take note of the snake’s coloring and overall appearance. Describing it to emergency staff will help identify what you’ve been bitten by and the appropriate countermeasures. Medical treatment will be in the form of anti-venom. This is a serum made by injecting small doses of snake venom into a large host animal, such as a horse. For this reason, people allergic to horses may not be able to take anti-venom.

The host animal’s blood generates antibodies to counteract the effects of the venom. The blood is drawn from the host, freeze dried, and used to make the basic serum that’s further refined to treat snakebite in humans.

Due to anti-venom supplies being limited, and in many cases unavailable, If you’re in an extremely remote location with no access to medical attention there may be only one alternative.

If you’ve been bitten by a snake you can’t positively identify as venomous, treat it as if it is venomous and follow the prescribed recommendations in the article.

If you’ve been bitten by a snake you can’t positively identify as venomous, treat it as if it is venomous and...

Shock Treatment

For close to 60 years, an alternative method has been used to treat snakebite victims: electric shock treatment. When neither medical facilities nor anti-venom are accessible, first-aid electric shock has been touted as an acceptable alternative for treating snakebites by people in the field. The challenge remains that the responder needs an adequate source and method of delivering the shock.

Only limited clinical testing has been performed in the area of shock treatment efficacy. No one can say for certain why it works. The main working theory is that the voltage disrupts the chemical compounds in the venom and subsequently dilutes them. Another is that the shock triggers the body into another response mode, making the venom less potent because the shock kick starts the healing process to overcome the damage potentially caused by envenomation. If medical attention isn’t an option, it may be the only method available; however, it doesn’t come without peripheral risks, so this is of course a last resort.

A proven method is using electricity from spark plug cables found on an internal combustion engine, such as an outboard motor, air compressor, or lawn mower.

With the spark plug removed, the lead from the ignition circuit is applied to the bite victim and the starter pulled. Typically, the victim receives several pulses at the location of the bite before their limb jerks away. This may be done three or four times, at intervals of several seconds between each treatment.

Some authorities recommend the use of a modified stun gun. However, there’s so much disparity between makes and models that their recommendation and subsequent modifications are well outside the scope of this article. In April 1990 the FDA banned the advertising of stun guns as a treatment for venomous bites for this very reason.

EpiPens

There is very little research in the area of EpiPen efficacy in treating snakebites. Speak to your doctor before attempting to use one to counteract envenomation. Recent news indicates that researchers at the University of Arizona are working on an EpiPen-like device that may eventually be approved for use in combatting the effects of rattlesnake bites, but at this point, it’s still in the experimental phase.

About The Author

Mike Searson has worked with dangerous animals as a wildlife trapper and exotic/dangerous animal rehabilitator in Florida. He has years of hands-on experience with chimpanzees, lions, bears, alligators, wolves, and primates and specializes in various spiders, snakes, and other reptiles. Known mostly for his gun, knife, and self-defense articles, his first published work was about breeding albino cobras in 1992.